Really enjoy your videos. I've researched a front mount oil tank for my latest 911 project and my understanding is that the scavenge pump moves a lot of oil and air: by design it will move a lot more volume than the high pressure oil feed side of the pump. Therefore there has to be a return path for this volume of air to the crankcase, which you are providing with the vent hose. Great job on that design!
Be aware you will likely end up with vapour smell inside the cabin if you're using that rubber hose and not Teflon. Common complaint with internal nitrile fuel lines in motorsport builds, and with fuel dilution in oil and oil vapour you might have similar issues.
You give the expert welder alot credit(and it's well deserved) but haven't heard anything about the machinist supporting you! Your machined components are absolutely beautiful aswell! För example that oilfilter/Thermostat housing!
CAM processing of a design and preparing it for the machine and tools available is half of the engineering. I work exclusively with Aximech on this. Fredrik (the guy behind) is the best I’ve ever seen at this!
For the PCV, couldn't you put an oil catch can in the back of the car? You could let it drip back to the oil sump to avoid having to empty it. And to be really fancy, you could also connect the top to the intake (vaporize the fuel that ends up in the oil and avoid dilution).
Fantastic work, love the car, the workshop and I am green with envy. Regarding the oil pipe through mount, not an engineer, but wouldn't it be possible to get your TIG guy to weld more tube to make a little "S" in the pipe to make the angle more favourable? A little like you might with an exhaust? You have plently of spare tube, a friendly TIG welder....? Just a thought.
Hey Jonas, great video as always. I was thinking, would it be worth putting a pair of Dry Break Quick Release couplings on either side of your Gearbox mount and on the inlet and outlet of the engine so you can drop it easily for a clutch change etc. without having to drain and fill your Oil system every time. Those couplings look pretty expensive but it would be cheaper and easier than changing all that oil more times than is needed. All the best mate 😉👍
It’s a great solution but I believe space will be the issue. I’ve found that whenever I end up doing a small job (in the past) I’ve always ended up changing the oil anyway, so I decided to rationalize them away
I think most people understand engines need the crankcase to breathe, but what are your thoughts on having a PCV actually pulling a vacuum on the crankcase?
Yes I don’t want to have two catch cans. The one I have is next to the oil tank in the front. You could have one in the back as well but I rather just have the hose and a single system.
@@islandworkslove the car and do your thing. Seems like a lot of work to avoid a second can, but I've watched all the videos and can't think of anything you didn't fully think out. That said, are you worried about the oil vapors condensing and ending up as droplets on that long run of hose? Seems like a lot of vapors could cool, condense and end up as oil in the back half the hose and then run back into your intake. Kind of like the gooseneck you were concerned about. Anything that condensed on the front half would run to the tank so no harm, but the back stuff would be my worry. But maybe it's nothing. I sometimes both over and under think things.
@@rossmacdonald3034 theres always more than one way to solve these issues. I’m not worried about any run back in this setup to the intake as the intake is not connected to the oil system at all. The vent line is directly from the crank case to the oil tank as compared to a standard 964 setup where the tank is vented off into the intake puking oil into the intake (ask me how I know…)
Just a word of caution (37yrs of Porsche race cars) we had an issue with the pump collapsing the braided lines close to the engine. We ended up running -20 lines and running a 150mm coiled wire inside to maintain the hose diameter. There is a reason why Porsche ran a hard line.
That’s good input. I’ve taken reference from some other builds and in all honesty wanted to reuse the snout it comes with from factory around the engine but could not find mine…
Poiseuille's law also affects you, as you are working with a fluid (oil) with gas inside it. You are not just doing this in a static condition, but as you brake/accelerate the fluid/gas acts as spring, the diameter of the pipe, length and to add complexity the viscosity of the fluid over temperature, engine speed are all changing the value. Add in the braided pipe which will deform at a percentage of length, which will also deform more at a higher temperature. Your pipe can be calculated to the necessary diameter of the wall required over the length and material of the pipe itself. Running hYeat shield between the fuel lines and a heat source of an exhaust is sufficient in the centre tunnel of a car as air flow is always linear, so front to back. Your oil is never going to be hotter than an exhaust.
So you’re saying better to run pipes in the middle and then thermally insulate the lines? Some reference from similar 911 installations have used more complex routing than this with AN16 or 20. In my case I have AN20 up the the transmission mount, then AN16 after that.
I have a dual scavenge pump from Autoverdi. It’s about the largest you could have I believe. I do however feel it’s a small expense with a vent line if I have issues in the future with blow by.
@@islandworks Scavinging the sump creates a low pressure invironment, which in turn stops leaks and frees up power, it also helps the oil from being aireated.
On the GT3 it is a return valve instead to allow vacuum to be pulled and at the same time allow positive crank case pressure to go via the line. I might look at something like that
The 19mm is big enough, but I would worry about the vent from the tank being a restriction, especially with that banjo fitting and even the vent from the puke tank. If you have a really powerful scavenge pump you might even push air back thru the 19mm hose, I'm guessing here.
Yes they have to be huge. Its different in all other vehicles than porsche. In the 911 its a part of the system, not just additional cooler outside the system. This is What many builders miss. Its also very important you use a high flowing cooler
That mount weldable but your welder won't thank you because cast doesn't weld nice, breather into the inlet manifold shouldn't be much gunk just gases as the dry sump vacuum suction
The best build on RUclips, I have been following for years!
Thanks!
My favorite show on the planet is on again
Also my favorite show! Need better frequency though!
Really enjoy your videos. I've researched a front mount oil tank for my latest 911 project and my understanding is that the scavenge pump moves a lot of oil and air: by design it will move a lot more volume than the high pressure oil feed side of the pump. Therefore there has to be a return path for this volume of air to the crankcase, which you are providing with the vent hose. Great job on that design!
Be aware you will likely end up with vapour smell inside the cabin if you're using that rubber hose and not Teflon. Common complaint with internal nitrile fuel lines in motorsport builds, and with fuel dilution in oil and oil vapour you might have similar issues.
You give the expert welder alot credit(and it's well deserved) but haven't heard anything about the machinist supporting you! Your machined components are absolutely beautiful aswell! För example that oilfilter/Thermostat housing!
CAM processing of a design and preparing it for the machine and tools available is half of the engineering. I work exclusively with Aximech on this. Fredrik (the guy behind) is the best I’ve ever seen at this!
For the PCV, couldn't you put an oil catch can in the back of the car?
You could let it drip back to the oil sump to avoid having to empty it.
And to be really fancy, you could also connect the top to the intake (vaporize the fuel that ends up in the oil and avoid dilution).
Looking forward to an update 🙂
Fantastic work, love the car, the workshop and I am green with envy. Regarding the oil pipe through mount, not an engineer, but wouldn't it be possible to get your TIG guy to weld more tube to make a little "S" in the pipe to make the angle more favourable? A little like you might with an exhaust? You have plently of spare tube, a friendly TIG welder....? Just a thought.
Good idea and definitely a possibility! Another way to to change to a clamp rather than a coupling so it shrinks
Well done ! thanks
What a view while you are editing!!
It was magic! Check out the instagram! Islandworks_overland
Lovely stuff as always! Been waiting since the last one haha!
Time is always a scars commodity! Next stop might start the engine!
@@islandworks can't wait 👏
Great work and great place to edit a video.
Magic!
Very cool 👍
❤️
How to turn your front transmission crossmember/mount to a heat sink!
That ought to remove at least a few degrees from the hot oil!
Haha! Great though and it will be smoking hot!
Hey Jonas, great video as always. I was thinking, would it be worth putting a pair of Dry Break Quick Release couplings on either side of your Gearbox mount and on the inlet and outlet of the engine so you can drop it easily for a clutch change etc. without having to drain and fill your Oil system every time. Those couplings look pretty expensive but it would be cheaper and easier than changing all that oil more times than is needed. All the best mate 😉👍
It’s a great solution but I believe space will be the issue. I’ve found that whenever I end up doing a small job (in the past) I’ve always ended up changing the oil anyway, so I decided to rationalize them away
you can slide those an fittings on really easy if you left hand thread them in rather than using a mallet.
The ones I have are not threaded unfortunately…
That 3d printed angled grommet is super cool! What filament material is it made from?
This is AddNorth TPU. Discount code in the description.
I think most people understand engines need the crankcase to breathe, but what are your thoughts on having a PCV actually pulling a vacuum on the crankcase?
I would like to design one in… looking for a suggestion on one that I can put in a piece of aluminum… :-)
In the sense that I mean a PCV as a non return valve on the crank case breather.
Sorry if I missed it, but is there a reason you can't use a VTE AOS and skip all that hose for the vent?
Yes I don’t want to have two catch cans. The one I have is next to the oil tank in the front. You could have one in the back as well but I rather just have the hose and a single system.
@@islandworkslove the car and do your thing. Seems like a lot of work to avoid a second can, but I've watched all the videos and can't think of anything you didn't fully think out.
That said, are you worried about the oil vapors condensing and ending up as droplets on that long run of hose? Seems like a lot of vapors could cool, condense and end up as oil in the back half the hose and then run back into your intake. Kind of like the gooseneck you were concerned about. Anything that condensed on the front half would run to the tank so no harm, but the back stuff would be my worry.
But maybe it's nothing. I sometimes both over and under think things.
@@rossmacdonald3034 theres always more than one way to solve these issues. I’m not worried about any run back in this setup to the intake as the intake is not connected to the oil system at all. The vent line is directly from the crank case to the oil tank as compared to a standard 964 setup where the tank is vented off into the intake puking oil into the intake (ask me how I know…)
Duh, IDK what I was thinking. Keep up the good work, car is going to be a beast. @@islandworks
just dig in :)
No one remembers a coward!
Just a word of caution (37yrs of Porsche race cars) we had an issue with the pump collapsing the braided lines close to the engine. We ended up running -20 lines and running a 150mm coiled wire inside to maintain the hose diameter. There is a reason why Porsche ran a hard line.
That’s good input. I’ve taken reference from some other builds and in all honesty wanted to reuse the snout it comes with from factory around the engine but could not find mine…
Poiseuille's law also affects you, as you are working with a fluid (oil) with gas inside it. You are not just doing this in a static condition, but as you brake/accelerate the fluid/gas acts as spring, the diameter of the pipe, length and to add complexity the viscosity of the fluid over temperature, engine speed are all changing the value. Add in the braided pipe which will deform at a percentage of length, which will also deform more at a higher temperature. Your pipe can be calculated to the necessary diameter of the wall required over the length and material of the pipe itself. Running hYeat shield between the fuel lines and a heat source of an exhaust is sufficient in the centre tunnel of a car as air flow is always linear, so front to back. Your oil is never going to be hotter than an exhaust.
@@fraserwright9482 we also gold foil the tunnel to reflect the heat away and keep it out of the cars.
So you’re saying better to run pipes in the middle and then thermally insulate the lines? Some reference from similar 911 installations have used more complex routing than this with AN16 or 20.
In my case I have AN20 up the the transmission mount, then AN16 after that.
@@islandworks I'll do heat sleeving over the lines *and run the reflective gold foil in the tunnel. Heat control.
Ingen minns en fegis! 🤘
Så är det!
If your running a dry sump with enugh scavenging you don´t need to vent the sngine, just the tank.
I have a dual scavenge pump from Autoverdi. It’s about the largest you could have I believe. I do however feel it’s a small expense with a vent line if I have issues in the future with blow by.
@@islandworks Scavinging the sump creates a low pressure invironment, which in turn stops leaks and frees up power, it also helps the oil from being aireated.
On the GT3 it is a return valve instead to allow vacuum to be pulled and at the same time allow positive crank case pressure to go via the line. I might look at something like that
The 19mm is big enough, but I would worry about the vent from the tank being a restriction, especially with that banjo fitting and even the vent from the puke tank. If you have a really powerful scavenge pump you might even push air back thru the 19mm hose, I'm guessing here.
I guess some of this will have to be seen once the engine runs and adjusted accordingly
The oil lines are huge. Do they really need to be that big?
The section line needs to be oversized to ensure there in no pressure loss leading into the pump given the extended length
Yes they have to be huge. Its different in all other vehicles than porsche. In the 911 its a part of the system, not just additional cooler outside the system. This is What many builders miss. Its also very important you use a high flowing cooler
In my setup there are two coolers running in parallel.
That mount weldable but your welder won't thank you because cast doesn't weld nice, breather into the inlet manifold shouldn't be much gunk just gases as the dry sump vacuum suction
So I guess we will be fighting a bit with the TIG. I hope I’ll only see gasses in the vent line!