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No preliminary test of an uncoated, unwrapped header for comparison?

You could adjust the fin that more air to the windows. In rainy track days it can easily fog the front windscreen

Did you make a heat shield between oiltank and fuel hoses?

Thanks for posting this. I have an '87 with the factory open diff and have been kicking around the idea of putting in an LSD but was concerned about how big of a job it'd be to get into the gearbox. Seems like the diff replacement procedure was well thought out on the G50 though!

people saying wrap will hold moister i mean maybe if corrosions happened in like 5 years you can weld over it and keep going again but coating will ruin your exhaust and you can't get good weld over

Hi, I live in Norway I would like stripping my classic car. Can you please give me the address of BS Technique? Many thanks

For the PCV, couldn't you put an oil catch can in the back of the car? You could let it drip back to the oil sump to avoid having to empty it. And to be really fancy, you could also connect the top to the intake (vaporize the fuel that ends up in the oil and avoid dilution).

Black color has maximum absorption AND radiation of heat. My professional advice would have been V-136 (Piston Coat, heat cure) for the inside of header, and C-7700 glacier silver on the outside (polished to chrome look). That what I did for my turbo and exhaust system.

Looking forward to an update 🙂

Loving this experiment just got long tube headers for my g37 sedan and I’m tryna figure out what’s the better way to go

Why not do both wrap the coated headers

exhaust temps are as high as 1300-1600f. this doesn't show that level of heat. you can't use infrared to measure heat since it's skewed by reflective surfaces. to do it right, you need a thermal camera or imaging device. infrared is the worst approach.

Be aware you will likely end up with vapour smell inside the cabin if you're using that rubber hose and not Teflon. Common complaint with internal nitrile fuel lines in motorsport builds, and with fuel dilution in oil and oil vapour you might have similar issues.

Interesting video @Islandworks and great to see the build coming on! If you have ever a chance to repeat this then a comparison with a few more options could be exciting e.g. uncoated, plasma-sprayed TBC, heat-shielding option.

The best build on RUclips, I have been following for years!

What’s the orange tape you use?

I haven't wrapped a car's exhaust, but I have wrapped the pipes on my bike. The idea there is it's not only for heat protection and esthetics, but that it help add a small increase power and torque by keeping the hot air inside the pipes. If it's the same for cars, then it seems to me both ceramic coating and wrapping would provide the most optimal result.

Just started watching! I stripped a '67 chassis to bare metal. Getting rid of the bitumen sound deadening was by far the nastiest job in the entire restoration.

This is my dream car build.

I think you should re test with different methods as other said infrared thermometers can read surface temperatures differently based on the color of the surface. This is because different colors have different emissivities, which is a measure of a material's ability to emit infrared radiation. Darker colors typically have higher emissivities and emit more infrared radiation, which can lead to more accurate temperature readings. Lighter colors, on the other hand, have lower emissivities and emit less infrared radiation, which can result in less accurate readings. Lighter colors usually have lower surface temperatures compared to darker colors under the same conditions. This is because lighter colors reflect more sunlight and absorb less heat, while darker colors absorb more sunlight and convert it to heat, resulting in higher surface temperatures.

Really enjoy your videos. I've researched a front mount oil tank for my latest 911 project and my understanding is that the scavenge pump moves a lot of oil and air: by design it will move a lot more volume than the high pressure oil feed side of the pump. Therefore there has to be a return path for this volume of air to the crankcase, which you are providing with the vent hose. Great job on that design!

Hey Jonas, great video as always. I was thinking, would it be worth putting a pair of Dry Break Quick Release couplings on either side of your Gearbox mount and on the inlet and outlet of the engine so you can drop it easily for a clutch change etc. without having to drain and fill your Oil system every time. Those couplings look pretty expensive but it would be cheaper and easier than changing all that oil more times than is needed. All the best mate 😉👍

I think most people understand engines need the crankcase to breathe, but what are your thoughts on having a PCV actually pulling a vacuum on the crankcase?

Fantastic work, love the car, the workshop and I am green with envy. Regarding the oil pipe through mount, not an engineer, but wouldn't it be possible to get your TIG guy to weld more tube to make a little "S" in the pipe to make the angle more favourable? A little like you might with an exhaust? You have plently of spare tube, a friendly TIG welder....? Just a thought.

My favorite show on the planet is on again

You give the expert welder alot credit(and it's well deserved) but haven't heard anything about the machinist supporting you! Your machined components are absolutely beautiful aswell! För example that oilfilter/Thermostat housing!

Well done ! thanks

Sorry if I missed it, but is there a reason you can't use a VTE AOS and skip all that hose for the vent?

you can slide those an fittings on really easy if you left hand thread them in rather than using a mallet.

The oil lines are huge. Do they really need to be that big?

Helt jävla galet bygge

Just a word of caution (37yrs of Porsche race cars) we had an issue with the pump collapsing the braided lines close to the engine. We ended up running -20 lines and running a 150mm coiled wire inside to maintain the hose diameter. There is a reason why Porsche ran a hard line.

Ingen minns en fegis! 🤘

Very cool 👍

That mount weldable but your welder won't thank you because cast doesn't weld nice, breather into the inlet manifold shouldn't be much gunk just gases as the dry sump vacuum suction

Great work and great place to edit a video.

What a view while you are editing!!

just dig in :)

That 3d printed angled grommet is super cool! What filament material is it made from?

How to turn your front transmission crossmember/mount to a heat sink! That ought to remove at least a few degrees from the hot oil!

Tjena, dom tillopp och retur ledningarna du har i tunneln under där, som sitter i dina blåa fästen, är väldigt säker på att du har aningens för glest mellan dom fästena, dom är "raka" och fina nu, men när du får olja i där så kommer dom att bågna när oljan värmer upp slangen. Hade försökt åtminstonde fått till 2 till på dom långa avstånden för att slippa det ☺️, hade detta problemet själv nämligen på en liknande installation. annars som vanligt, väldigt bra content och lösningar 🔥

If your running a dry sump with enugh scavenging you don´t need to vent the sngine, just the tank.

Lovely stuff as always! Been waiting since the last one haha!

The wrap is known to cause rust because it holds moisture. The coating may last only 1-2 years

A bee hive spring and smaller retainer would make it lighter again, not all people agree with this method, but race cars have used them 😊

Have used both on different projects over the years. For pure heat reduction wrap always works better than any type of ceramic coating. But for street applications ceramic is generally the better choice as it doesn’t lead to corrosion and cracking as quickly as wrap does.

Great build videos. Have you been able to start up the engine with the TT exhaust and get dB measurements?

You have not added controls mild or stainless steel headers uncoated or wrapped also wraps are reputed to retain or absorb moisture bringing early retirement to mild steel headers.

Where did you buy the brake pressure and switch bulkhead?

what if you put wrap on the ceramic coat?