I've always been curious to see a belt drive fixed gear build, especially to see how the belt would hold up to brakeless riding.. That thing is clean as hell, and so quiet!
Yeah very quiet, was honestly very surprised. I’ll keep you updated with how it holds up, thought there might have been a bit of stretch or flex but it feels solid as
Very nice build! One tip for measuring the belt tension with the Gates app: measure the tension at different positions of the cranks. The chainring ("beltring" in this case) is almost never perfectly concentric with the BB axle, which means the tension will increase at certain positions of the crank. As a constant tension of the belt is really important for proper functioning and durability of the drivetrain, I would advise to check the tension at quarter turns of the crank and make sure the tension never exceeds the limit. If there is a big discrepancy in tensions, try to get the beltring centered better on the crank. The belt will also stretch slightly during the first few rides, so make sure to check the tension again after a while. Also like you mentioned in the video, a higher tension can create a bit of drag on the drivetrain components. In my experience with beltdrive bikes, belt-slip is really never an issue unless the belt is completely loose. I run an internal gear hub with beltdrive and have the tension at about 40Hz, as that is recommended for internal gear hubs, and have never had issues. To save the bearings of your hub and bb I would personally run a slightly lower tension, but I guess 65Hz is still within the recommended range, so if it gives you peace of mind, go for it. Also really love the Surly Tuggnuts! I use them too for tensioning the belt, though I have found, just using one on the driveside to tension works fine. Just make sure you centre the rim between the chainstays. Have fun with the bike!
Thanks for the Intel! After finishing the build I did end up measuring the tension at different positions, it ranged maybe 5htz or so. After the first ride it remained practically the same tension. I’ll definitely check the tension after a few more bigger rides! Yeah the tuggnuts are great, I run a single one on one of my other set ups but went for two on this one to just try and tune in the belt the best I could while keeping the wheel perfectly centred as the clearance is quite tight!
My first bike when I got back into cycling as an adult was a cinelli tutto just like this one. I rode it as a singlespeed a ton, including with a Gates belt set up, and also ran it with a 2-speed sturmey archer kickshift hub that also could use the belt drive. Awesome bike, very fun and versatile to work on and build up. cheers
That’s awesome! A shame they changed the design so much. The split link gives them a whole different use that not many frames cater for. That sturmey 2 speed sounds interesting! Thanks for the comment🙏
Sick build! My 2025 project is a Surly Straggler belt-driven 11-speed IGH using a Veer split belt. Nice to see the fixed gear community getting in on the belt drive act!
@@wockstantinople I'm running their Hurdy Gurdy on a conversion. Thinking about getting those Tuggnuts for a couple normal track frames but I already carry other contraptions for bottle openers. Haha
Tbh I thought there would be more stretch/flex in the belt but it’s surprisingly stiff. After my first ride there’s definitely no complaints at all, feels solid like a normal chain. unbelievably quiet and smooth as. Almost zero “chain slack” feeling as the tension is quite high. The no oil/grease part is pretty wild, given that there’s almost zero noise. I’ll have to ride it a bit more to get a proper idea, but so far I’m a big fan🥹
That is so slick! I was stupidly thinking, why the joint in the frame? Of course, a belt cannot be passed otherwise. Love your videos dude, owning a fixie myself. So much fun!
as someone who has weariness with chain maintenance due to getting their finger caught in the chain and almost severing the tip of my index, this has always peaked my curiosity about making the switch to belt. 🥰
ahh that doesn’t sound ideal, hope the finger is good! Belt would definitely be better but I still don’t like the idea of getting a finger trapped in there especially with the tension it’s under🫣
it's the combination of simple things like this makes me happy. I bought my Schindelhauer Ludwig first for the aesthetics but on the end what I really love and enjoy the most is how quiet and calm to ride and how peacefull it is...especially outside the city at nature arround a lake. you could notice the airflow arround yourself and you notice every little thing like the birds, water etc. I would be never switch back to a noisy, dirt collector chain drive again.
I exclusively only use gates belt drive on my bikes and have owned quite a few now. The belt tension specs are not as stringent as gates recommends. At least as far as being loose. Over tensioning is more of an issue. if the "chainline" is not perfect having the belt a little bit loose is better.
One tip that they don't tell you: tension the belt based on the conditions you'll be riding in. I've set my belt to the right tension indoors at room temperature, but then going out riding on hot, sunny days found that the bike frame may expand enough to put the tension higher than the recommended upper range. The same goes for the cold: your frame will contract. Your body won't notice the very slight change, but your belt will. When the belt is outside of its tension range, it will wear much faster. I've noticed when riding on hot days, my belt will start to squeak after only five kilometres. Pouring water on it will help, but after another five km, it starts again. Running your fingers over the teeth you'll find a lot of dust. It's not dust from the environment, but the belt teeth wearing down. Belts will last a long time and won't stretch like a chain, but you have to pay attention to tension and the things that affect it. I've only noticed this relatively recently, so my belt isn't in as good of condition as it should be after only a year.
I think it's a fantastic transmission: quiet, long-lasting, maintenance-free... I don't know if a non-fixie bike could be made. But it would be a good option. The set up is very, very nice.
Thank you! It’s very very quiet indeed. As @c1m1w said, there’s lots of other commuters and mtbs that run belts, most have either internal gear hubs or gearboxes
I've been looking at that exact frame just the other day. Will try to build a single speed gravel with it. Awesome build, btw. And really slick skidding.
Veer makes a split belt for frames that lack seat stay split. The "joint" is spread over a length of the belt (sorry, idk how much)... seems like a nice option, albeit kinda expensive...but so are special belt drive frames.
@@waveywheelies I've looked at a few pics of the belt and it appears the "joint" is spread over approximately 20 "pins".... the belt-ring and rear "sprockets" also look proprietary within the veer ecosystem. I'm still intrigued, but also very hesitant to buy.
I have ridden the Veer belt for quite a while and it has worked great for me! They recommend running lower tension than Gates because of the split design, so belt slip can become an issue, but I haven't had trouble with it. One thing to watch for is that the chain line is extremely important, maybe even more so than with the Gates system, as the rear cog doesn't have any sort of spline to keep the belt from running off the cog.
Yes please. This drive train looks so smooth and quiet, it's beautiful. Never have understood the obsession with with noisy free wheels, or loud motorcycles. I would much prefer silent. Wondering how it feels? IMO not really a fan of the bars/stem, but otherwise a really good looking build.
I have a Moulton with Sachs Duomatic hub and belt drive. I like it a lot! No more chain tensioning and lubing. Just clean belt. It is a bit more work when changing a tire though. My bike also has track ends which is not ideal for a belt drive. Best would be sliding dropouts so you could set the tension once and never do it again.
I too used higher tension before. But after Watching Alee Denhams videos and knowing how low he goes with his belt drive tension I have dropped mine to the lower limit. I has still worked perfectly. Less tension also lessens the wear on hub and BB bearings.
dope setup! I moded my old surly ogre touring bike to take belts and have an onxy SS 6-bolt disc hub so I can use it as a flip-flop hub with the 6 bolt gates cogs. running mtb tires and super short ratio so its usable as a commuter/gravel/touring rig. still working up the courage to try the fix cog again after a near miss!
For all who wonder if they could get away with non-split triangle - yeah, frame with elevated chainstay allows to use a belt without modding frame. Just beware - Gates states that frame has to be very rigid to not flex, this is critical for a belt drive so while you could mount belt I guess these frames aren't very best for a belt. If you look at Gates approved frame list most of them are aluminum frames. I guess, that's to ensure rigidity.
I would LOVE to have a belt drive! on my State 4130! Maybe I can cut the frame in half and it would work!?!? LOL That is a nice setup. I have always wondered if belty drive would be as nice as it looks.
@waveywheelies another option are Veer split belts. I think either method is on the expensive side... but out of the norm, so I kinda like it. I think other options are either an eccentric BB or eccentric rear fixed hub... I can't say I've EVER seen an eccentric fixed hub
schindelhauer gates racing team has all their fixed bikes equipped with a belt. biggest advantage os less power loss at high power and no play while doing a trackstand ;-)
Натяжку ремня можно отрегулировать подвешиванием груза на ремень. Разброс веса для замера 2 - 4 кг. с провисанием ремня на 1 см. Я регулирую 3 кг, этого достаточно. В России недоступны некоторые ресурсы карбон гейтс.
Hi, i can get my hands on a break open frame for cheap, but wondering who you purchased the drivetrain through? Pricing? (Perhaps that info is in confidence) TIA
That's nice for tricks and stuff, but as a commuter I think this would be completely useless for me as I'm so used to freehub, I couldn't drive without it anymore. Freehub is a must. Also I don't like that the frame is compromised because of the belt drive, that's another big negative. Also one speed only, only if there's no hills where you live. All in all this could be a fun ride, but it's very very niche, only for specific conditions and not very flexible.
Belt drive is especially great for commuters. You come home, wipe tires (maybe) and do your home routine instead of cleaning drivetrain and lubing chain.
@@event4216 lol what, I never touch the chain, or wipe tires. You do it once a year maybe if even that often. IDK maybe if you drive a MTB in a muddy terrain. I commute in a city, sometimes I run into fine gravel. There's literally no reason to justify this kind of "belt drive", it's just a novelty.
@@amonynous9041 Tires - it depends on where yo live and where you keep bike. In apartments wiping tires is a measure to keep clean your living place. Slick tires are very easy to wipe, like 30sec a wheel, and I prefer them to be clean when I go out next day. Clean tires mean better traction.
@@event4216 I have slick tires, it's a road carbon bike from 90es, but I keep it in my garden, really no need to wipe them, no mud. Why would you keep bike in apartment? are you afraid someone might steal it, do you sleep in the same bed with your bike? lol
Do you really have to have a split flame to get it on? Can’t you just have it on the back cog and like just bring it forward• Like the old school way when your train would fall off you put it back on the Big sprocket
You can't roll belt over ring as it will damage internal structure. Rolling chain also isn't OK, it worked with massive steel rings and people who don't put out lot of power.
8:12 It basically not needed. Just two discs. One on outer side of front cog and second on inner side of rear cog. It for those who wanted to try belt drive, but can't afford this overpriced Gates system. If You use wide enough belt and cogs installed precisely even they basically not needed, but "just in case" better to have.
m.ruclips.net/video/wxRIlYg2tgY/видео.html - @PhysicsAnonymous has done a amazing belt drive fixed gear as well! Glad to see more people are seeing the light(ness)
Not sure tbh, there’s a few people out there that have made custom cogs and chainrings to accommodate a car belt but I think the tooth profiles might be different. Gates also make belts for motorbikes and scooters
All that fuss and expense just to lose watts for no discernable benefit other than being quirky. If I were to own a bike with a gimmicky but ultimately inferior method of propulsion for a bike, I'd skip a belt drive and opt straight for a shaft drive.
Shaft drive have inferior efficiency ratings than both belt drive and chain drive. For what I've seen, a well maintained and centered single-speed chain is always the superior choice... That said, shaft drive is virtually zero maintenance and looks cleaner.
I guess it all depends on your priorities when riding. Technically a belt drive is slightly less efficient than a chain, but that only applies if both are installed and tensioned properly and the chain is clean and lubed. A belt is trickier to install, but the big benefit is that it is almost a "set it and forget it" system (as long as it's installed correctly of course). A chain takes constant maintenance to operate properly. Most people don't build their own bikes, so the fuss of setting up a belt isn't important to them, but the fuss of maintaining a chain is. Also a chain gets your pants dirty and wears out a whole lot quicker than a belt. This is why you mostly see belt drives on city and touring bikes. If performance is your ultimate priority, nobody would pick a belt over a chain. It all depends on what, where and how you ride to determine if a belt makes sense, but I think there is definitely a place for belts in the bike industry, where they vastly outperform chains. Maybe not purely on performance, but surely on ease of maintenance and durability.
Anything with "fix" label on bicycle parts cost redicilous for what it is... I made single speed bicycle without this shit which literally cost like my bicycle EACH... Just using automotive belt and cogs. From my experience it not so much in need of tension, but pushing roller for which usual caliper hanger actually quite good placement. This priciness just killing me... More than 380$ monthly wage. 🤬
First of all I ask about friends and one of them mentioned model with cheap enough parts. Then I by set of two cogs and belt. Then I "nicely asked" coworker to help(on my workplace we don't have CNC, so it was done in old way). He cut middle of those cogs. Then just drill holes for attach front cog on a crank arm which have changeable chainring by default and just by myself drill and screwed in ring plate on outside of front cog. For rear cog little bit harder. Cog with milled middle part I put on complete cassette(struggle to describe on english, low end unit usually up to 7 speed, but not a freewheel even is same principles, which just screwed on rear hub without barrel unlike higher price cassettes which is just set of cogs which You put on barrel). Remove chainrings from cassette and use just bearings from it. Make channel in rear cog and bearings from cassette for stopping pin. Put it all together and secure stopping pin by cuted end cup from cassette. I use steel frame so just cut out piece of right seat stay. Take short piece of pipe and make cut through it's length. Put resulted piece of pipe on right seat stay and drill on ends for tightening them by bolts. Belt... You need to measure distance from center of bottom bracket shell to nearest position of wheel axel and then there are calculators which help You got right length of belt for this length and given cogs teeth number. Then search automotive belts of resulting length and teeth step legth equal to Your cogs. Preferably with teeths of HTD or STD profile and with 1-3 teeth count more than resulting lenght. Only producers who write such info are Gates and Bosch funny enough. Other stuff insignificant. Also it can be done little bit easier than I've done. Also I literally not first one who done it. Obviously You need to have instruments for that and hands which grows from right place. All this is easier than it sound, but still You exchange Your work for less money on conversion. I also don't mentioned tension roller, but wrote in another comment that it can be done using derailleur hanger by screwing in it bolt with tied on it industrial bearings of right size. I forced to done it because ridiculously overpriced parts which also inaccessible in my country, but if You can just by it... It easier. Hope language barrier not make my words into gibrish. Any links I can give You on this topic are unfortunately on russian or ukrainian even if they with photos of actual converted bicycles.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Measuring the tension with a guitar tuner blew my mind :D Such a cool build!
maybe work slightly better if you unleash phone mic. from case as mic. might be less obstructed too - who knows
Yeah rad right! it was something new for me. and thank you!!
I've always been curious to see a belt drive fixed gear build, especially to see how the belt would hold up to brakeless riding.. That thing is clean as hell, and so quiet!
Yeah very quiet, was honestly very surprised. I’ll keep you updated with how it holds up, thought there might have been a bit of stretch or flex but it feels solid as
Waxed chain is qite quiet as well, but not as much
Very nice build! One tip for measuring the belt tension with the Gates app: measure the tension at different positions of the cranks. The chainring ("beltring" in this case) is almost never perfectly concentric with the BB axle, which means the tension will increase at certain positions of the crank. As a constant tension of the belt is really important for proper functioning and durability of the drivetrain, I would advise to check the tension at quarter turns of the crank and make sure the tension never exceeds the limit. If there is a big discrepancy in tensions, try to get the beltring centered better on the crank. The belt will also stretch slightly during the first few rides, so make sure to check the tension again after a while.
Also like you mentioned in the video, a higher tension can create a bit of drag on the drivetrain components. In my experience with beltdrive bikes, belt-slip is really never an issue unless the belt is completely loose. I run an internal gear hub with beltdrive and have the tension at about 40Hz, as that is recommended for internal gear hubs, and have never had issues. To save the bearings of your hub and bb I would personally run a slightly lower tension, but I guess 65Hz is still within the recommended range, so if it gives you peace of mind, go for it.
Also really love the Surly Tuggnuts! I use them too for tensioning the belt, though I have found, just using one on the driveside to tension works fine. Just make sure you centre the rim between the chainstays.
Have fun with the bike!
Thanks for the Intel! After finishing the build I did end up measuring the tension at different positions, it ranged maybe 5htz or so. After the first ride it remained practically the same tension. I’ll definitely check the tension after a few more bigger rides!
Yeah the tuggnuts are great, I run a single one on one of my other set ups but went for two on this one to just try and tune in the belt the best I could while keeping the wheel perfectly centred as the clearance is quite tight!
My first bike when I got back into cycling as an adult was a cinelli tutto just like this one. I rode it as a singlespeed a ton, including with a Gates belt set up, and also ran it with a 2-speed sturmey archer kickshift hub that also could use the belt drive. Awesome bike, very fun and versatile to work on and build up. cheers
That’s awesome! A shame they changed the design so much. The split link gives them a whole different use that not many frames cater for. That sturmey 2 speed sounds interesting! Thanks for the comment🙏
WE ARE LOVING THIS SO MUCH ❤
Sick build! My 2025 project is a Surly Straggler belt-driven 11-speed IGH using a Veer split belt. Nice to see the fixed gear community getting in on the belt drive act!
oooo that’s sounds intriguing! I’ll have to look into those
Awesome - please make a video of it! 🙌🏻
This channel is the most expensive to watch on RUclips, Ebay must love this stuff.
Fixie ✅️
Gates belt ✅️
Sugino ✅️
Kiwi ❤
❤️
Super sick. That Tuggnut kind of completes the look
@@wockstantinople I'm running their Hurdy Gurdy on a conversion. Thinking about getting those Tuggnuts for a couple normal track frames but I already carry other contraptions for bottle openers. Haha
Would have been nice to get your impressions on what it was like riding fixed belt drive! I know that's not your usual format but I'm curious....
Tbh I thought there would be more stretch/flex in the belt but it’s surprisingly stiff. After my first ride there’s definitely no complaints at all, feels solid like a normal chain. unbelievably quiet and smooth as. Almost zero “chain slack” feeling as the tension is quite high. The no oil/grease part is pretty wild, given that there’s almost zero noise. I’ll have to ride it a bit more to get a proper idea, but so far I’m a big fan🥹
That is so slick! I was stupidly thinking, why the joint in the frame? Of course, a belt cannot be passed otherwise. Love your videos dude, owning a fixie myself. So much fun!
Yeah it throws a lot of people off! Thanks for tuning in and the kind words❤️
as someone who has weariness with chain maintenance due to getting their finger caught in the chain and almost severing the tip of my index, this has always peaked my curiosity about making the switch to belt. 🥰
You must be a handsome guy 😁
ahh that doesn’t sound ideal, hope the finger is good! Belt would definitely be better but I still don’t like the idea of getting a finger trapped in there especially with the tension it’s under🫣
Incredible build! My daily rn is a Schindelhauer viktor fixed and it’s unbelievable to have the belt. Dead silent and instant response.
it's the combination of simple things like this makes me happy. I bought my Schindelhauer Ludwig first for the aesthetics but on the end what I really love and enjoy the most is how quiet and calm to ride and how peacefull it is...especially outside the city at nature arround a lake. you could notice the airflow arround yourself and you notice every little thing like the birds, water etc.
I would be never switch back to a noisy, dirt collector chain drive again.
thats no chainring, thats a beltring!
very true!
wow, your fixed is awesome!
the music during the ridding is so cool I watched a hundred times that part
I exclusively only use gates belt drive on my bikes and have owned quite a few now. The belt tension specs are not as stringent as gates recommends. At least as far as being loose. Over tensioning is more of an issue. if the "chainline" is not perfect having the belt a little bit loose is better.
Measuring the frequency of the ping to work out tension is very cool
that clean
That's gorgeous. I gotta get me something like that one day
I am riding the Schindelhauer Hektor. Belt drive is the future🔥
Rad! The drop out design on those looks very very cool🥹
One tip that they don't tell you: tension the belt based on the conditions you'll be riding in. I've set my belt to the right tension indoors at room temperature, but then going out riding on hot, sunny days found that the bike frame may expand enough to put the tension higher than the recommended upper range. The same goes for the cold: your frame will contract. Your body won't notice the very slight change, but your belt will.
When the belt is outside of its tension range, it will wear much faster. I've noticed when riding on hot days, my belt will start to squeak after only five kilometres. Pouring water on it will help, but after another five km, it starts again. Running your fingers over the teeth you'll find a lot of dust. It's not dust from the environment, but the belt teeth wearing down.
Belts will last a long time and won't stretch like a chain, but you have to pay attention to tension and the things that affect it. I've only noticed this relatively recently, so my belt isn't in as good of condition as it should be after only a year.
I think it's a fantastic transmission: quiet, long-lasting, maintenance-free...
I don't know if a non-fixie bike could be made. But it would be a good option.
The set up is very, very nice.
Hub gears or pinion. Common for high end commuters
Thank you! It’s very very quiet indeed. As @c1m1w said, there’s lots of other commuters and mtbs that run belts, most have either internal gear hubs or gearboxes
Your camera and editing skills are excellent and this vid was super cool👌
Need to check that allen key bolt regularly on the seat stays.
Was just wondering about a belt fixie and here you are. Lovely build one of your best! ❤
Happy to be of service! Thanks for the kind words🧡
Great video ! Everything's so smooth
I've been looking at that exact frame just the other day. Will try to build a single speed gravel with it.
Awesome build, btw. And really slick skidding.
Veer makes a split belt for frames that lack seat stay split. The "joint" is spread over a length of the belt (sorry, idk how much)... seems like a nice option, albeit kinda expensive...but so are special belt drive frames.
Just read another comment mentioning them, I’ll have to have a look. The idea of having a belt with a joint/link makes me a little nervous but curios
@@waveywheelies same, which is why I have not really committed to buying the set up.
@@waveywheelies I've looked at a few pics of the belt and it appears the "joint" is spread over approximately 20 "pins".... the belt-ring and rear "sprockets" also look proprietary within the veer ecosystem. I'm still intrigued, but also very hesitant to buy.
I have ridden the Veer belt for quite a while and it has worked great for me! They recommend running lower tension than Gates because of the split design, so belt slip can become an issue, but I haven't had trouble with it. One thing to watch for is that the chain line is extremely important, maybe even more so than with the Gates system, as the rear cog doesn't have any sort of spline to keep the belt from running off the cog.
@simonbrans734 so not a good choice for fixed gear....I'd probably go belt drive for my IGH bikes.
Yes please. This drive train looks so smooth and quiet, it's beautiful. Never have understood the obsession with with noisy free wheels, or loud motorcycles. I would much prefer silent. Wondering how it feels? IMO not really a fan of the bars/stem, but otherwise a really good looking build.
I have a Moulton with Sachs Duomatic hub and belt drive. I like it a lot! No more chain tensioning and lubing. Just clean belt. It is a bit more work when changing a tire though. My bike also has track ends which is not ideal for a belt drive. Best would be sliding dropouts so you could set the tension once and never do it again.
I too used higher tension before. But after Watching Alee Denhams videos and knowing how low he goes with his belt drive tension I have dropped mine to the lower limit. I has still worked perfectly. Less tension also lessens the wear on hub and BB bearings.
dope setup! I moded my old surly ogre touring bike to take belts and have an onxy SS 6-bolt disc hub so I can use it as a flip-flop hub with the 6 bolt gates cogs. running mtb tires and super short ratio so its usable as a commuter/gravel/touring rig. still working up the courage to try the fix cog again after a near miss!
Beautiful bike. Well done!
Woahhh it's almost zero maintenance!
that's a sweet ride!
So clean
I have a Gates belt drive for the timing belt on a tandem, it seems to wear the bottom brackets out when the tension is high.
👍 to the Vans
Super clean!
Now I need one of these frames.
Chain version would be lighter i guess
Looks great!
there is a way to get an unsplit belt through an unsplit rear triangle. it needs additional pulleys, though.
What a beauty…
❤️
been wanting to do a build like this for quite some time...
🔥🔥
❤️
😮 this guy still using the iphone with home button😱😱🔥🔥👍🏼
congrats man! never seen stg like that 👍👍👍
cheers man!
For all who wonder if they could get away with non-split triangle - yeah, frame with elevated chainstay allows to use a belt without modding frame. Just beware - Gates states that frame has to be very rigid to not flex, this is critical for a belt drive so while you could mount belt I guess these frames aren't very best for a belt. If you look at Gates approved frame list most of them are aluminum frames. I guess, that's to ensure rigidity.
Amazing!! 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks🫡
You WILL be sneaking up on people with that bike.
My belt drive is deadly quiet.
What about skid? How the belt holding up when skidding?
I would LOVE to have a belt drive! on my State 4130! Maybe I can cut the frame in half and it would work!?!? LOL That is a nice setup. I have always wondered if belty drive would be as nice as it looks.
Yeah you could definitely add a split link into the seat stay given it’s steel, not sure who makes them though, could do a custom one?
Man its my dream to transition my fixie to a belt drive
Give it a go if you can! If your frame doesn’t have a split link you can get them welded in if it’s steel
@waveywheelies another option are Veer split belts. I think either method is on the expensive side... but out of the norm, so I kinda like it.
I think other options are either an eccentric BB or eccentric rear fixed hub... I can't say I've EVER seen an eccentric fixed hub
Clean > power efficiency
How's skidding with a belt drive?
so cool
So did it feel any different?
What’s it like for skids?
Clean
Cheers!
Wait... did you say "brakeless"? How do you stop? Backpedal tension?
Yep, resistance / back pressure / skids
Wow this is crazy cool. Is the frame made of steel? If so, did the belt slip of?
Cheers! Yep it’s steel and no it didn’t slip off, it’s under quite a lot of tension
schindelhauer gates racing team has all their fixed bikes equipped with a belt. biggest advantage os less power loss at high power and no play while doing a trackstand ;-)
Where do you order the belt drive parts?
🔥🔥🔥🔥
A little silicone lube does fantastic on that drivetrain.
Натяжку ремня можно отрегулировать подвешиванием груза на ремень. Разброс веса для замера 2 - 4 кг. с провисанием ремня на 1 см. Я регулирую 3 кг, этого достаточно. В России недоступны некоторые ресурсы карбон гейтс.
YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
I'm uncomfortable not hearing the drive train of fixed gear, it feels off somehow, anyways fire build you got there!
haha it’s weird right? I tried to record some audio of it but the tyres made more noise on the road than the belt did. and thanks! glad you enjoyed😊
cOOL, dooood.
thanks man😊
what is the song in the beginning?
How long this frame lives?
Where can I get a frame like that bro? (Need help)
Hi, i can get my hands on a break open frame for cheap, but wondering who you purchased the drivetrain through? Pricing? (Perhaps that info is in confidence) TIA
Seems like a lot of messing around with the build (comparing to a chained setup), but the end result makes it worth it I guess
Try to get that beltline more straight. 2mm is way too much deviation for a belt. It's officially +/-0.5mm.
Yeah I did, it’s well within .5mm. Check out 6:47
What is a handle
Nice
Why run belt?
pls do cardan shaft fixed gear
what is the belt just slips genuine question
did you get a sponsorship from Vans? They should pay you. Looks sleek!
haha nah, but that would be sweet though!
@waveywheelies and you deserve it 😉
That's nice for tricks and stuff, but as a commuter I think this would be completely useless for me as I'm so used to freehub, I couldn't drive without it anymore. Freehub is a must. Also I don't like that the frame is compromised because of the belt drive, that's another big negative. Also one speed only, only if there's no hills where you live. All in all this could be a fun ride, but it's very very niche, only for specific conditions and not very flexible.
Belt drive is especially great for commuters. You come home, wipe tires (maybe) and do your home routine instead of cleaning drivetrain and lubing chain.
@@event4216 lol what, I never touch the chain, or wipe tires. You do it once a year maybe if even that often. IDK maybe if you drive a MTB in a muddy terrain. I commute in a city, sometimes I run into fine gravel. There's literally no reason to justify this kind of "belt drive", it's just a novelty.
@@amonynous9041 Tires - it depends on where yo live and where you keep bike. In apartments wiping tires is a measure to keep clean your living place. Slick tires are very easy to wipe, like 30sec a wheel, and I prefer them to be clean when I go out next day. Clean tires mean better traction.
@@event4216 I have slick tires, it's a road carbon bike from 90es, but I keep it in my garden, really no need to wipe them, no mud. Why would you keep bike in apartment? are you afraid someone might steal it, do you sleep in the same bed with your bike? lol
@@amonynous9041 I haven't got a garden.
Hi, I'm from Indonesia
Hey! Thanks for tuning in🫡
Prelepo... if you ever want to sell it, hit me up! :D
If Gates could make a belt with a removeable link......
👌
Never even said how you liked it,
Do you really have to have a split flame to get it on? Can’t you just have it on the back cog and like just bring it forward• Like the old school way when your train would fall off you put it back on the Big sprocket
Schindelhauer Hector have what i think ur talking about
You can't roll belt over ring as it will damage internal structure. Rolling chain also isn't OK, it worked with massive steel rings and people who don't put out lot of power.
too much belt tension can severely reduce the life of your bearings. keep the bearings well-greased and you'll be fine, probably.
WTFFFF!!!!
haha!
8:12 It basically not needed. Just two discs. One on outer side of front cog and second on inner side of rear cog. It for those who wanted to try belt drive, but can't afford this overpriced Gates system. If You use wide enough belt and cogs installed precisely even they basically not needed, but "just in case" better to have.
m.ruclips.net/video/wxRIlYg2tgY/видео.html - @PhysicsAnonymous has done a amazing belt drive fixed gear as well! Glad to see more people are seeing the light(ness)
All cool but specific split frame requirement and belt drive price, aint cutting it.
can u use. car motor belt on that?
Not sure tbh, there’s a few people out there that have made custom cogs and chainrings to accommodate a car belt but I think the tooth profiles might be different. Gates also make belts for motorbikes and scooters
New trand
Why a square BB? Those are terrible
I bet that's Sooooooo quiet
Sure is!
More friction and it WILL slip. Don't ask me how I know this...
All that fuss and expense just to lose watts for no discernable benefit other than being quirky. If I were to own a bike with a gimmicky but ultimately inferior method of propulsion for a bike, I'd skip a belt drive and opt straight for a shaft drive.
Shaft drive have inferior efficiency ratings than both belt drive and chain drive. For what I've seen, a well maintained and centered single-speed chain is always the superior choice...
That said, shaft drive is virtually zero maintenance and looks cleaner.
I guess it all depends on your priorities when riding. Technically a belt drive is slightly less efficient than a chain, but that only applies if both are installed and tensioned properly and the chain is clean and lubed. A belt is trickier to install, but the big benefit is that it is almost a "set it and forget it" system (as long as it's installed correctly of course). A chain takes constant maintenance to operate properly. Most people don't build their own bikes, so the fuss of setting up a belt isn't important to them, but the fuss of maintaining a chain is. Also a chain gets your pants dirty and wears out a whole lot quicker than a belt. This is why you mostly see belt drives on city and touring bikes. If performance is your ultimate priority, nobody would pick a belt over a chain. It all depends on what, where and how you ride to determine if a belt makes sense, but I think there is definitely a place for belts in the bike industry, where they vastly outperform chains. Maybe not purely on performance, but surely on ease of maintenance and durability.
Why are you fussing over watts lol. Who cares about watts?
@@difflocktwo way to not read past the first few words dummy
Anything with "fix" label on bicycle parts cost redicilous for what it is...
I made single speed bicycle without this shit which literally cost like my bicycle EACH... Just using automotive belt and cogs. From my experience it not so much in need of tension, but pushing roller for which usual caliper hanger actually quite good placement.
This priciness just killing me... More than 380$ monthly wage. 🤬
How did you use automotive cogs as the "beltring" and freewheel?
First of all I ask about friends and one of them mentioned model with cheap enough parts. Then I by set of two cogs and belt.
Then I "nicely asked" coworker to help(on my workplace we don't have CNC, so it was done in old way). He cut middle of those cogs. Then just drill holes for attach front cog on a crank arm which have changeable chainring by default and just by myself drill and screwed in ring plate on outside of front cog.
For rear cog little bit harder. Cog with milled middle part I put on complete cassette(struggle to describe on english, low end unit usually up to 7 speed, but not a freewheel even is same principles, which just screwed on rear hub without barrel unlike higher price cassettes which is just set of cogs which You put on barrel). Remove chainrings from cassette and use just bearings from it. Make channel in rear cog and bearings from cassette for stopping pin. Put it all together and secure stopping pin by cuted end cup from cassette.
I use steel frame so just cut out piece of right seat stay. Take short piece of pipe and make cut through it's length. Put resulted piece of pipe on right seat stay and drill on ends for tightening them by bolts.
Belt... You need to measure distance from center of bottom bracket shell to nearest position of wheel axel and then there are calculators which help You got right length of belt for this length and given cogs teeth number. Then search automotive belts of resulting length and teeth step legth equal to Your cogs. Preferably with teeths of HTD or STD profile and with 1-3 teeth count more than resulting lenght. Only producers who write such info are Gates and Bosch funny enough.
Other stuff insignificant. Also it can be done little bit easier than I've done. Also I literally not first one who done it. Obviously You need to have instruments for that and hands which grows from right place. All this is easier than it sound, but still You exchange Your work for less money on conversion. I also don't mentioned tension roller, but wrote in another comment that it can be done using derailleur hanger by screwing in it bolt with tied on it industrial bearings of right size.
I forced to done it because ridiculously overpriced parts which also inaccessible in my country, but if You can just by it... It easier.
Hope language barrier not make my words into gibrish. Any links I can give You on this topic are unfortunately on russian or ukrainian even if they with photos of actual converted bicycles.
Shit... Only afterwards got it. Mean cogs which used for teeth belts in car engines.