10 year indie Porsche tech here; removing the rear wheels and the 3-5 fasteners to pull the forward mud guard will drastically speed up the spark plug job! These cars have a lot of tight spaces but reward you more than you think if you take the time to take the stuff off to have proper room to work
@user-wv1pj6wh4hI assume you have never worked on a car before, he was just diagnosing the issue as it seemed like the turbo was the problem. He ruled the turbo out for 20 bucks and then moved on. Quite simple really
I always loved changing plugs in the 996/997.1 Turbo (Mezger) engines - ha ha NOT. Or when upgrading to larger fuel injectors, what a pain to change with engine in the car.
@user-wv1pj6wh4hengineers work for corporations , Porsche caters to people who want to over pay for things to feel superior for being able to overpay and differentiate themselves from regular pukes . They pay for that feeling . If a Porsche didn't have the highest mark up / profit margin and priced so high more people would be able to buy them making them less special . Needing expensive parts and being engineered in a way that needs many hours of expensive per hour work by technicians who know the cars , have the correct tools and authorized for newer cars means that peons won't buy used ones and do their own work making it harder to tell the difference between a wealthy Porsche owner and low life scum without money and the taste to deserve overpriced things that wealthier people do and understand what is nice and why nice things and affording the extra costs are worth it based on german egineeering which means something different the being easy to service and they would understand if they werent poor . Porsches like all premium German cars are for people who dont worry about cars past a certain amount of Miles as they purchase new ones before the egineering Is a bigger problem and with that the poor people who buy ones at the bottom of depreciation will not keep them running to appear like they deserve german egineering further protecting the image of the badge and the idea of cars like 911s or the entry car the Cayman . The engineering need only give the cars good performance and a type of fit and finish that appears better then lesser cars even if there are diminishing returns and how much better for the extra money because rich people understand this concept and the willingness to except the concept means they have the means to dispose of money in return for good things which creates the idea of having good taste which is supposed to represent something intangible outside of money that only those who are superior enough to have enough to waste can understand so one doesn't marry or have their child marry into the family of our God forbid breed with people who lack taste and discernment. Porsche executives have stated that they could sell their products for 1/2 the cost and make the same profit that they do but at the price point they have chosen its better for exclusivity which means they produce fewer cars that would need to be built as well as Warrentied etc and because people are willing to pay very high premiums for things like the Porsche crest if it makes the feel superior and able to spot other superior people anything that would make it easier to own would actually hurt that profit margin so lower unit production is actually good for porsche . Plus Porsche discovered how to use the branding on other cars not really considered Porsches by some owners of the car that thebrands built on which is the 911 making it somewhat more affordable to have something with the logo while keeping whay makes the logo strong still expensive and overpriced so that people want that badge on something like a small SUV which is antithetical to the idea of a historical Porsche that created the aura that allows for the overpricing . It's a delicate balance but egineering for simplicity in the ways you describe are not part of that balance and profit structure . If one doesn't understand that then they are not Porsche people so it doesnt matter what they think and thinking otherwise alerts the Porsche person that person doesn't have the money to have the ability to have higher tastes . Keep In mind there is NO SUBSTITUTION FOR THE PORSCHE LOGO . anything else will not be ecognized and your not in the club , the costs associated with german engineering partially pay for access to membership which is something bigger then transportation or driving fun and if one doesn't grasp that, it's good , it means they are riff raff and easily kept out of the club so one might not be fooled and interact with somebody outside their class by mistake and lower their status .
except for the FACT that for the price of those that buy new ones then we can confirm with 100% certainty that the people preaching sustainability just want throw away garbage. FACT.
When Volvo started using turbos in the 240 series back in the late '70's, the turbos where basically the same as the ones in your Porsche - oil cooled. If you didn't let the engine idle for at least 30 seconds before turning the engine off, the turbo would be heat-soaked. And without oil pumping through the turbo, the stagnate oil in the heat-soaked turbo coked up and ruined the bearings and seals. After 20k miles, you had oil dripping out of the turbo, slow spool-up, low boost and blue smoke. In the early '80's, Volvo added a water jacket to the turbo and plumbed it directly into the upper and lower radiator hoses. That cured the problem. Because it bypassed the water pump and thermostat, the heat in the turbo acted as the induction "pump" to keep the water flowing even with the motor turned off. On my DL745GLT I replace 2 turbos (20k & 60k) until I got one of the water-cooled turbos installed. I drove that car for another 250k mi (I sold it with 310k mi) without replacing another turbo. While the scavenger pump / reservoir may improve oil flow while the engine is running, it doesn't solve the issue of oil flow (for cooling, not for lubricating) after shutdown. You can't add water-cooled turbos to a Porsche, but you might want to add a time delay relay to the scavenger pump (instant on and 5 min delay to turn off) or let the engine idle for 30 sec to a minute before shutdown.
Many years ago, I did a similar "upgrade" in a 1993 french Renault Trafic's manual gearbox. The 5th gear get not enough oil, by a gearbox's design mistake. So, in long trips as I use to did, the 5th gear suffers a lot and it's the only gear we have to replace frequently. So I installed a little electric pump, taking oil from the low part of the gearbox, and spread it over the 5th gear. It's not for permanent use: I swich it on just on highways, not at the city. I never had more problems with the 5th gear. Greetings from Argentina ! 🇦🇷
Sam - Look at a switched ground for your oil pump via an oil pressure sensor that grounds your relay at 1 psi - this is how the STS (Squires Turbo Systems) kits work - this will extend the life of your pump (ask me how I know!) as it will not run when there is no oil to move.
My first thought, also, was that the pump will have a short and an unhappy life and then you are back to square one. It probably uses whatever it is pumping to lubricate and cool the actual pumping mechanism. It needs to be switched so that it is only running when it has an actual job to do.
I can imagine these cars becoming really popular with 30-40 somethings, and maybe their first base for doing an upgrade themselves as a home mechanic. So this type of practical advice is really value adding for enthusiasts / would-be enthusiasts.
Yo Sam, at 9:00 where you show the U-Shaped adapter you had to use because when the fitting was tight it was facing the wrong direction: If you run your thumbnail through the thread till you get to 180˚ you know how much of the thread to file off. Then when you re tighten the fitting it will be pointing the right way.
@user-ql6qc9ug2j because, you can always improve on OEM...look at the Ruf and Manthey kit available, then Reiger, Ohlins, or even Bilstein will sell you upgraded dampers. You are totally right that they sell great cars, but you can genuinely improve them
@@AdamArndtBecause the former owner has changed it (by replacing it with lower springs), because the shocks have worn out a bit, and because the addition of the turbo-kit begs for a more hardcore suspension. The original suspension is well engineered for it's original purpose: being a fast, allround sporty car. In Europe it will be the only car for many owners. So if your build gets more track oriented, you'll want firmer suspension.
I was outside working on my car in that same exact weird weather today in Tampa. Rain, then drizzle, then mist, and a few minutes of clear weather. Keep up the great work!
9:15 I'm sure someone has already pointed this out, but thread sealant is not only unnecessary for JIC fittings, it can actually cause the very problem your using it to solve. JIC is a mechanical seal, the flange is where the sealing happens, not the treads. NTPF (Pipe Thread Fuel) does require thread sealant *if* the fitting or port is to be reused. A second danger with using thread sealant in any circumstance is using too much. It can migrate into valves and other components, where it plugs things up.
I totally agree , more so if your using a lot of it..also balancing the turbo would of been a better way to do it, but it’s not a deal killer..I’ve done it both ways..
One tip I was given by an old school turbo builder many years ago was when you fit the piston rings into the housing make sure that the split in the ring sits to the top of the turbo 180 degrees from bottom point of the turbo as fitted. He said because not all housings are fitted perfectly upright due to fitment this ensures that there will be minimal chance of oil pushing through any gaps. It makes sense to me if you think the split is at the bottom you have more chance of slight leakage especially after stopping. I've always built turbos this way and I have to say I never had any oil issues pushing past them.
Great problem solving, but your pump shouldn't always operate w/key. These systems usually gravity feed into the reservoir, then a float switch activates the pump to cycle the oil to the pan until reservoir is empty. Prob need to have a reservoir w/ a switch for pump, a smaller diameter line from pump- pan may help, return line port (vertical/is it above oil level?) appears not ideal, additionally some turbo benefit from a restrictor in supply line. GL
@@Samcrac lol always love the videos tho can always relate to trying to doing things as cheap and simple as possible even if it takes time. At least you always end up with new knowledge on how to fix things, instead of throwing things away and getting new like everyone else does. Thats why my beat old Acura has 315k and still rips.😂
The safe bet is...safe. Low risk, no real reward. Everything I own has a custom suspension with angles I calculated. That can either get expensive or mean you fabricate many of the parts, yourself, but it's DEFINITELY worth it. When you don't right, the car you end up with both feels and handles EXACTLY the way you want it to.
@@kender1412The reward is a package you know gives the original ride quality and handling. Suspension, like most engineering, is a compromise and decent ride quality is important for many/most owners that use their car as a daily driver.
That plate you called an “engine cover” is actually a structural plate that is tied into the rear axle carriers. It is important that you have all the bolts in it and it seems like you’re missing the 2 front and the whole brace that goes to the rear.
Hey samcrac! Love the videos! When you were drilling out the Holes on the oil fitting for the turbo, it looked as though there were burrs on the backside of the fitting, I.e. the sealing side. Those could potentially lead to an oil leak. Not sure if it was something you took care of off camera..
excellent solution to the turbo oil drain issue. The AN lines look to be decent quality hopefully thats the end to your oil leak issue. You would think from an engineering standpoint the Turbo kit company would be running into the same issue when they did their testing. You solution of them selling the scavenging pump seems like a no brainer. Sounds like they don't want to admit the design flaw in their kit. Unless it was installed incorrectly but that seems doubtful since the manifold controls the turbo location. Very strange that they didn't have a solution to the oil draining thing for $12K.. weird. Good video, thanks for the content! P.S. you should do a Q & A video, like what do you do for a living full time? Are you from FL originally? whats your favorite top 5 cars to work on and drive and 5 worst. could be fun.
Air cooled flat 6 Porsche turbos featured a mechanical scavenge pump run from the crank shaft and oil was very often draining back from the sump of the engine into the turbos, flooding the catalysts.. OH man, the smoke was just incredible. First of all, later 996 turbos feature a small low tension one way stop valve avoiding pressure oil to enter the turbo when the engine is turned off. Secondly I Installed mouse trap in line non return valves which really solved all the smoke problem.
One thing I would do is bypass that "turbo kit" company. Go directly to a turbo manufacturer, or get spec info. On what size feed line to the turbo. It might be getting fed too much oil. Second, that scavenge pump is not supposed to run continous. Run a by-pass, and have the scavenge pump activated by a switch on the throttle. Activated at 3/4 to full throttle. Shocks? Lets see, what do those 911s come with, McPherson strut type? Sounds like previous owner, just dropped in some springs on the stock shocks. So just get a good new set of shocks. The ones in there are prob blown. In the old days, it was Bilstein's or Koni's. Those progressive coils looked decent.
I have a question regarding the fitting connected to turbo. It had what looks to me like it had a neoprene O-ring. I think this O-ring will wear out and crumble very fast due to high temperatures. Neoprene is not suited in high temperature environments
Whilst you’re sorting the suspension you’ll find it will ride a lot better without those big wheels and ultra low profile tyres. Maybe try some smaller OEM size wheels 17 or 18”with more sidewall. It made a big difference on my 981 Cayman
Sam. What ever happened to this car? Were you able to fix the issue with the pump install? I’m still having this same exact problem with the misfire codes and flashing cel when driving. Any help is so much appreciated. Thanks
There's not a lot of room to put them anywhere else and by nature of the flat six design, the turbo has to be low because that's where the exhaust is. Plus it's a very niche market so not a lot of companies wade into a limited mkt. You basically have the 3-letter option and that's it.
Sometimes when folks update turbos, they forget to insert the applicable restrictor in the turbo oil feed line and too much oil damages the seals. Ask me how I know 😅
Yep manufacturers always have a recommended dia for the inlet on top of the turbo, easy to miss this out when re building if it has a restrictor instead of sized inlet flange.
@@michaelvette7659 It was an inline restrictor in my case. I didn't read the fine print on the turbo kit. I noticed because of the excess oil in the intake tracts
Save your money on the solvent, use transmission fluid and then follow it up with plain water while giving it 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, I've cleaned many failing O2 sensors with that same combination.
It would have been wise to drill that drain with a 5/8 (16mm) drill bit. The factory oil drain for a ballbearing turbo is 13.5mm which use less oil. Drain fittings like the one you installed are commonly 10-12mm ID. The drain for the Cummins turbos are 20mm ID. The scavenge pump may cause enough suction to prevent a back up, but you also need to consider driving conditions on inclines where the oil can’t drain effectively. I had issues with my factory oil drains not flowing well enough driving on a friend’s driveway causing the oil to leak into the exhaust. If the the turbo height is so low that the natural oil level is above the turbo seals, the oil will leak past the seals in parked conditions even with the scavenge pump, if that’s the case, that would be a real annoying issue that would be hard to fix without moving the turbo up higher.
I know you're running a pump, but I don't know if running a U shape connector with that 90 degree is such a great idea. Maybe I'm overthinking it but it could restrict oil flow causing the same issue or burning out the pump... They make quality swivel ones or banjo bolt ones
I can't believe that a company would offer a 10K turbo kit with a return line like that and no scavenge pump. I blew a turbo on my honda civic because I had a 90* in the line, this is just ignorance. Can't wait to see if finished.
I hate sponsors on some channels but with Sam as long as the content keeps coming I’ll watch the plugs because they’re usually interesting, the one with the tires on the last video for example, perfectly incorporated
Ah my dads a vet and has a couple of them his one has another dial for the opposite way so does up down left right. But that's neat they finally made ones for cars that are a decent price. My dad has had his for at least 20 years
Great job fixing all the problems with the 3-letter turbo kit. Now you can anticipate a rod coming thru the block as stock Porsches are not meant to be hotrodded like SBCs.
Hey bud, I watch a lot of your videos. It’s nice to hear someone not complain or bitch about things. You have a good attitude and enjoy your content. Aloha from Tennessee
With that low position of oil scavenging I'd consider to have a T-coupling at the oil exit on the turbo and a vacuum pump at a higher location with an oil separator before it. A bit complicated from one perspective but you'll have less stuff low down that can get damaged if you hit something.
Worked at a tractor store for q few years. Once we had a new tractor repeatedly in for a mysterious issue. After months of scanning, disassembling, contacting reps and engineers for help... The issue ended up being a screw that had come loose and kept lodging itself in the turbo.
Yeah, I'm sure it's fun to have a boosted Cayman, but these aftermarket kits always seem to lead to various non-stop problems. Turbo kits are for the birds.
I was thinking this, after recently suffering an engine fire in my 2008 Abarth Grande Punto Esseesse, to which a previous owner had fitted an aftermarket big turbo kit - the whole front end of the car got burned out. If it was left stock, it would probably still be running today. :(
I’m a former Porsche owner In my experience it’s best to keep the suspension very close to stock unless you’re a famous race driver I know what you’re doing horses don’t ride soft to begin with no need to make it worse My best wishes always from Las Vegas craig
Please forgive the typo it’s Porsche not horses Stay away from AI there’s too many software mistakes that could be fatal Just as in the short message the speech to text is made three gross errors
It never ceases to amaze the ingenuity of German engineering. And when they get it right, you end up with brilliant cars like the VW. The same can be said for when they get it spectacularly wrong in as much as removing something as mundane as a spark plug. As an example. WTF.
A little trick from an old pipefitter that did Hydraulics use hard set pipe dope and you can just spin it and stop it where it needs to be and it'll lock that fitting right in
i think a tune can greatly reduce the problems you have and the you know the engine is optimized so any other problem will be pretty easy to know what the problem is then
I worked at Oehlins some time ago and they produce incredible suspension kits for Porsche at horrendous prices, but boy these things do really transform and enhance ride (!) and roadholding making the car a lot more inspiring and safer to drive at the limit. Highly recommended but will cost an arm and a leg... 😂😂😂
I scored a full set of Cayman R Suspension, in really good condition, for my 987 Cayman S. Hoping that'll be the best for looks and handling! It was only £500 the lot (and yes it is genuine and has provenance)
@@Netherlands031 The way turbo seals work they always have a small gap in them. They are actually called piston rings because they are metal rings with a slit in them to account for heat expansion. If the center housing gets filled with oil and begins to pressurize, the oil will push past the rings, especially on deceleration and when the housings are under the least pressure or vacuum. Any turbo setup with the center housing of the turbo lower than the top of the oil pan will generally need a scavenge pump to ensure proper drainage.
12:50 I think you have to do between 60-80 miles for the O2 sensors to be in a ready state to throw that code. When you clear the codes it can reset that requirement. There is sometimes two other ways the pcm puts them in a ready state. X number of restart for a few minutes each, or a specific set of rpm/load states that can vary wildly but is usually very specific in the factory manual. TLDR that code might not be gone, just squelched.
please forgive me on this, i just saw the work you did the turbo, great job, i also saw wht looks like "extra; grease around it, if u view the video you posted esp at the end you see what im refering to. it was at the very end where i think you pulled the new one you installed.
Why isn't the turbo draining the oil fast enough? I get the oil line is not gravity activated - but is this because its after market and designed for a car which has the line running downwards?
I'd say taking the exhaust out and cleaning it the whole inside will help on every way, just with pressure and sand over the tube. This may helps a bit on it, keep going forward buddy, peace👌🏻
10 year indie Porsche tech here; removing the rear wheels and the 3-5 fasteners to pull the forward mud guard will drastically speed up the spark plug job! These cars have a lot of tight spaces but reward you more than you think if you take the time to take the stuff off to have proper room to work
@user-wv1pj6wh4hI assume you have never worked on a car before, he was just diagnosing the issue as it seemed like the turbo was the problem. He ruled the turbo out for 20 bucks and then moved on. Quite simple really
I always loved changing plugs in the 996/997.1 Turbo (Mezger) engines - ha ha NOT. Or when upgrading to larger fuel injectors, what a pain to change with engine in the car.
@user-wv1pj6wh4hengineers work for corporations , Porsche caters to people who want to over pay for things to feel superior for being able to overpay and differentiate themselves from regular pukes . They pay for that feeling . If a Porsche didn't have the highest mark up / profit margin and priced so high more people would be able to buy them making them less special . Needing expensive parts and being engineered in a way that needs many hours of expensive per hour work by technicians who know the cars , have the correct tools and authorized for newer cars means that peons won't buy used ones and do their own work making it harder to tell the difference between a wealthy Porsche owner and low life scum without money and the taste to deserve overpriced things that wealthier people do and understand what is nice and why nice things and affording the extra costs are worth it based on german egineeering which means something different the being easy to service and they would understand if they werent poor .
Porsches like all premium German cars are for people who dont worry about cars past a certain amount of Miles as they purchase new ones before the egineering Is a bigger problem and with that the poor people who buy ones at the bottom of depreciation will not keep them running to appear like they deserve german egineering further protecting the image of the badge and the idea of cars like 911s or the entry car the Cayman .
The engineering need only give the cars good performance and a type of fit and finish that appears better then lesser cars even if there are diminishing returns and how much better for the extra money because rich people understand this concept and the willingness to except the concept means they have the means to dispose of money in return for good things which creates the idea of having good taste which is supposed to represent something intangible outside of money that only those who are superior enough to have enough to waste can understand so one doesn't marry or have their child marry into the family of our God forbid breed with people who lack taste and discernment.
Porsche executives have stated that they could sell their products for 1/2 the cost and make the same profit that they do but at the price point they have chosen its better for exclusivity which means they produce fewer cars that would need to be built as well as Warrentied etc and because people are willing to pay very high premiums for things like the Porsche crest if it makes the feel superior and able to spot other superior people anything that would make it easier to own would actually hurt that profit margin so lower unit production is actually good for porsche . Plus Porsche discovered how to use the branding on other cars not really considered Porsches by some owners of the car that thebrands built on which is the 911 making it somewhat more affordable to have something with the logo while keeping whay makes the logo strong still expensive and overpriced so that people want that badge on something like a small SUV which is antithetical to the idea of a historical Porsche that created the aura that allows for the overpricing . It's a delicate balance but egineering for simplicity in the ways you describe are not part of that balance and profit structure . If one doesn't understand that then they are not Porsche people so it doesnt matter what they think and thinking otherwise alerts the Porsche person that person doesn't have the money to have the ability to have higher tastes .
Keep In mind there is NO SUBSTITUTION FOR THE PORSCHE LOGO . anything else will not be ecognized and your not in the club , the costs associated with german engineering partially pay for access to membership which is something bigger then transportation or driving fun and if one doesn't grasp that, it's good , it means they are riff raff and easily kept out of the club so one might not be fooled and interact with somebody outside their class by mistake and lower their status .
except for the FACT that for the price of those that buy new ones then we can confirm with 100% certainty that the people preaching sustainability just want throw away garbage. FACT.
@user-wv1pj6wh4h They are designed to be fast to build . Repairable is an afterthought 😂
When Volvo started using turbos in the 240 series back in the late '70's, the turbos where basically the same as the ones in your Porsche - oil cooled. If you didn't let the engine idle for at least 30 seconds before turning the engine off, the turbo would be heat-soaked. And without oil pumping through the turbo, the stagnate oil in the heat-soaked turbo coked up and ruined the bearings and seals. After 20k miles, you had oil dripping out of the turbo, slow spool-up, low boost and blue smoke. In the early '80's, Volvo added a water jacket to the turbo and plumbed it directly into the upper and lower radiator hoses. That cured the problem. Because it bypassed the water pump and thermostat, the heat in the turbo acted as the induction "pump" to keep the water flowing even with the motor turned off. On my DL745GLT I replace 2 turbos (20k & 60k) until I got one of the water-cooled turbos installed. I drove that car for another 250k mi (I sold it with 310k mi) without replacing another turbo. While the scavenger pump / reservoir may improve oil flow while the engine is running, it doesn't solve the issue of oil flow (for cooling, not for lubricating) after shutdown. You can't add water-cooled turbos to a Porsche, but you might want to add a time delay relay to the scavenger pump (instant on and 5 min delay to turn off) or let the engine idle for 30 sec to a minute before shutdown.
Same for Nissan 300zx turbos . Mine ,correctly treated lasted for 325,000 miles before It was hit by a drunk BUBBA in his PU while it was parked .
Or use a proper PE synthetic…
Many years ago, I did a similar "upgrade" in a 1993 french Renault Trafic's manual gearbox.
The 5th gear get not enough oil, by a gearbox's design mistake.
So, in long trips as I use to did, the 5th gear suffers a lot and it's the only gear we have to replace frequently.
So I installed a little electric pump, taking oil from the low part of the gearbox, and spread it over the 5th gear.
It's not for permanent use: I swich it on just on highways, not at the city.
I never had more problems with the 5th gear.
Greetings from Argentina ! 🇦🇷
Sam - Look at a switched ground for your oil pump via an oil pressure sensor that grounds your relay at 1 psi - this is how the STS (Squires Turbo Systems) kits work - this will extend the life of your pump (ask me how I know!) as it will not run when there is no oil to move.
My first thought, also, was that the pump will have a short and an unhappy life and then you are back to square one. It probably uses whatever it is pumping to lubricate and cool the actual pumping mechanism. It needs to be switched so that it is only running when it has an actual job to do.
Exactly - this guy is a Jack-leg mechanic - everything he does is half assed. That pump will be lucky to last 90 days.
I can imagine these cars becoming really popular with 30-40 somethings, and maybe their first base for doing an upgrade themselves as a home mechanic. So this type of practical advice is really value adding for enthusiasts / would-be enthusiasts.
Yo Sam, at 9:00 where you show the U-Shaped adapter you had to use because when the fitting was tight it was facing the wrong direction: If you run your thumbnail through the thread till you get to 180˚ you know how much of the thread to file off. Then when you re tighten the fitting it will be pointing the right way.
Good call, using the U bend pipe just wasted all the effort to put in the pump and canister lol.
Should never use teflon on an AN fitting
@@justinkapano1996JB Weld instead?
If you're fixing it, the suspension, might as well make it better. Nothing crazy, but something that works with it all.
I agree completely.
Always watch the videos but this channel and fixing cars don’t go together
I've always heard that Porsche has good engineering. Upgrading the suspension is a..... Why? It should handle great out the box. Why mess with it?
@user-ql6qc9ug2j because, you can always improve on OEM...look at the Ruf and Manthey kit available, then Reiger, Ohlins, or even Bilstein will sell you upgraded dampers. You are totally right that they sell great cars, but you can genuinely improve them
@@AdamArndtBecause the former owner has changed it (by replacing it with lower springs), because the shocks have worn out a bit, and because the addition of the turbo-kit begs for a more hardcore suspension. The original suspension is well engineered for it's original purpose: being a fast, allround sporty car. In Europe it will be the only car for many owners. So if your build gets more track oriented, you'll want firmer suspension.
I was outside working on my car in that same exact weird weather today in Tampa. Rain, then drizzle, then mist, and a few minutes of clear weather. Keep up the great work!
9:15 I'm sure someone has already pointed this out, but thread sealant is not only unnecessary for JIC fittings, it can actually cause the very problem your using it to solve.
JIC is a mechanical seal, the flange is where the sealing happens, not the treads. NTPF (Pipe Thread Fuel) does require thread sealant *if* the fitting or port is to be reused. A second danger with using thread sealant in any circumstance is using too much. It can migrate into valves and other components, where it plugs things up.
I totally agree , more so if your using a lot of it..also balancing the turbo would of been a better way to do it, but it’s not a deal killer..I’ve done it both ways..
Hard set pipe dope works on everything man and then you don't have to worry about that aluminum onto the metal
@@davidgentz1731Seems like I've worked on cars you've owned and butchered.
One tip I was given by an old school turbo builder many years ago was when you fit the piston rings into the housing make sure that the split in the ring sits to the top of the turbo 180 degrees from bottom point of the turbo as fitted. He said because not all housings are fitted perfectly upright due to fitment this ensures that there will be minimal chance of oil pushing through any gaps. It makes sense to me if you think the split is at the bottom you have more chance of slight leakage especially after stopping. I've always built turbos this way and I have to say I never had any oil issues pushing past them.
That makes perfect sense. Now all you gotta do. Is tear the the engine down, and do the same with the piston rings. LOL
Oil burn is from the return line backing up and the seal leaks
SAM! Take the rear wheels off, and do the plugs through the rear wheel wells. Way easier.
Great video, great fix. But the noise that pump makes is insanely loud
That's what you get for buying an el cheapo pump.
Noise may be from no oil, if engine hadn't started yet.
I have a cooling pump on my transaxle. It makes the same noise until the oil warms up and flows easier, then it's silent.
Great problem solving, but your pump shouldn't always operate w/key. These systems usually gravity feed into the reservoir, then a float switch activates the pump to cycle the oil to the pan until reservoir is empty. Prob need to have a reservoir w/ a switch for pump, a smaller diameter line from pump- pan may help, return line port (vertical/is it above oil level?) appears not ideal, additionally some turbo benefit from a restrictor in supply line. GL
Thanks for the input
My man got the scope cam that'll finally help us find the g spot. Thanks for your contribution to men sam.
Glad I could help
@@Samcrac lol always love the videos tho can always relate to trying to doing things as cheap and simple as possible even if it takes time. At least you always end up with new knowledge on how to fix things, instead of throwing things away and getting new like everyone else does. Thats why my beat old Acura has 315k and still rips.😂
FleshLight for your car
Nope STILL cant find it, send more pictures and instructions
Did you buy the 1 meter or 5 meter long variant?
this is the best chanel on youtube. I love it so much ever since I stumbled on the r8 videos, I was hooked.
Pst: 'chanel' is a perfume....
Sam is my favorite OG salvage YT channel
Pretty good, but I wish he'd learn to pronounce "Porsche".
I think that suspension-wise, it’s a safe bet to stick with stock components with new dampers and maybe polyurethane bushings.
The safe bet is...safe. Low risk, no real reward. Everything I own has a custom suspension with angles I calculated. That can either get expensive or mean you fabricate many of the parts, yourself, but it's DEFINITELY worth it. When you don't right, the car you end up with both feels and handles EXACTLY the way you want it to.
@@kender1412 That’s badass.
@@kender1412The reward is a package you know gives the original ride quality and handling. Suspension, like most engineering, is a compromise and decent ride quality is important for many/most owners that use their car as a daily driver.
You are a master at seamlessly incorporating sponsors into your videos! Gat that cash!
That plate you called an “engine cover” is actually a structural plate that is tied into the rear axle carriers. It is important that you have all the bolts in it and it seems like you’re missing the 2 front and the whole brace that goes to the rear.
Love my 85 Eldorado with the on board diagnostics. Very nice.
Hey. Did you ever figure out or fix why it was giving you the flashing cel light?
I am not a mechanic but I like to watch and learn. Hopefully it works. Keep it up Sammy but no more closeups of you drinking from that thing.
I thought it was some kind of a prank product. Who would buy that? lol
@@OMGWTFLOLSMHmany people do its really not that stupid of an idea.
Hey samcrac! Love the videos!
When you were drilling out the Holes on the oil fitting for the turbo, it looked as though there were burrs on the backside of the fitting, I.e. the sealing side. Those could potentially lead to an oil leak. Not sure if it was something you took care of off camera..
Absolutely love this type of content. Approachable repairs and maintenance!
What does approachable mean?
@@PointNemo9 In this context I'm saying he makes videos in a simple way so others can feel confident to grab a wrench and work on their car.
excellent solution to the turbo oil drain issue. The AN lines look to be decent quality hopefully thats the end to your oil leak issue. You would think from an engineering standpoint the Turbo kit company would be running into the same issue when they did their testing. You solution of them selling the scavenging pump seems like a no brainer. Sounds like they don't want to admit the design flaw in their kit. Unless it was installed incorrectly but that seems doubtful since the manifold controls the turbo location. Very strange that they didn't have a solution to the oil draining thing for $12K.. weird. Good video, thanks for the content!
P.S. you should do a Q & A video, like what do you do for a living full time? Are you from FL originally? whats your favorite top 5 cars to work on and drive and 5 worst. could be fun.
Maybe they are well aware of the issue but instead of fixing drain issue they drain money for turbo repairs
Well, offering or recommending a pump is an implicit admission that you need one and then they're in hook for all the faulty kits they've sold.
As a DIY Mechanic, I avoid mod cars for all the hassle troubleshooting potential issues. As maintaining it over, due to parts availability.
Air cooled flat 6 Porsche turbos featured a mechanical scavenge pump run from the crank shaft and oil was very often draining back from the sump of the engine into the turbos, flooding the catalysts..
OH man, the smoke was just incredible. First of all, later 996 turbos feature a small low tension one way stop valve avoiding pressure oil to enter the turbo when the engine is turned off. Secondly I Installed mouse trap in line non return valves which really solved all the smoke problem.
Way to go Sam on your car fixes. Always looking forward to your next video! Cheers and Peace!
Do you drop the final syllable on all car names? Or just Porsche? It's like saying "Aud" or "Ferrar"
You’re gonna want to install an oil catch can on that Alfa. The carbon buildup is pretty bad on those.
Sam I appreciate your contribution
One thing I would do is bypass that "turbo kit" company. Go directly to a turbo manufacturer, or get spec info. On what size feed line to the turbo. It might be getting fed too much oil. Second, that scavenge pump is not supposed to run continous. Run a by-pass, and have the scavenge pump activated by a switch on the throttle. Activated at 3/4 to full throttle. Shocks? Lets see, what do those 911s come with, McPherson strut type? Sounds like previous owner, just dropped in some springs on the stock shocks. So just get a good new set of shocks. The ones in there are prob blown. In the old days, it was Bilstein's or Koni's. Those progressive coils looked decent.
I have a question regarding the fitting connected to turbo. It had what looks to me like it had a neoprene O-ring. I think this O-ring will wear out and crumble very fast due to high temperatures. Neoprene is not suited in high temperature environments
Another great video. Nice to see some progress.
Thanks 👍
Great show humble guy , good editing
Whilst you’re sorting the suspension you’ll find it will ride a lot better without those big wheels and ultra low profile tyres. Maybe try some smaller OEM size wheels 17 or 18”with more sidewall. It made a big difference on my 981 Cayman
Yep. Big wheels are not for ride comfort. I'd rather have more sidewall.
I would recommend a coilover setup from KW Suspension. They provide dampers to Porsche's factory race cars. They also make the kits for Manthey.
Whoever is watching this video, never give up on your dreams.😇
😊
Awesome as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
That oil line to oil sump is crazy the oil have to build up to go into the pan 😮😮😮
I highly recommend the Subaru Upper engine cleaner. It a spray foam and it does miracles to intakes and cylinder heads
Sam. What ever happened to this car? Were you able to fix the issue with the pump install? I’m still having this same exact problem with the misfire codes and flashing cel when driving. Any help is so much appreciated. Thanks
There must be better suited turbo kits available,ones that possibly have different piping manifold designs that get the turbo up higher
There's not a lot of room to put them anywhere else and by nature of the flat six design, the turbo has to be low because that's where the exhaust is. Plus it's a very niche market so not a lot of companies wade into a limited mkt. You basically have the 3-letter option and that's it.
Sometimes when folks update turbos, they forget to insert the applicable restrictor in the turbo oil feed line and too much oil damages the seals. Ask me how I know 😅
Yep manufacturers always have a recommended dia for the inlet on top of the turbo, easy to miss this out when re building if it has a restrictor instead of sized inlet flange.
How do you know? You went through the same problem? Is it an inline restrictor, or is it a smaller feed line?
@@michaelvette7659 It was an inline restrictor in my case. I didn't read the fine print on the turbo kit. I noticed because of the excess oil in the intake tracts
It's just fitting that Turbo-Mike helped you take off the turbo :)
Friday and a dose of Mr Crac what could be better
Sam if you take the back wheels off you can get to the spark plugs very easily.
😂😂😂
Was thinking the same as I watched him struggle 😂
Save your money on the solvent, use transmission fluid and then follow it up with plain water while giving it 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, I've cleaned many failing O2 sensors with that same combination.
It would have been wise to drill that drain with a 5/8 (16mm) drill bit. The factory oil drain for a ballbearing turbo is 13.5mm which use less oil. Drain fittings like the one you installed are commonly 10-12mm ID. The drain for the Cummins turbos are 20mm ID.
The scavenge pump may cause enough suction to prevent a back up, but you also need to consider driving conditions on inclines where the oil can’t drain effectively. I had issues with my factory oil drains not flowing well enough driving on a friend’s driveway causing the oil to leak into the exhaust.
If the the turbo height is so low that the natural oil level is above the turbo seals, the oil will leak past the seals in parked conditions even with the scavenge pump, if that’s the case, that would be a real annoying issue that would be hard to fix without moving the turbo up higher.
Pull the wheel and the fender liner and the plugs are right in front of you. You can change them sitting comfortably on the floor.
I know you're running a pump, but I don't know if running a U shape connector with that 90 degree is such a great idea. Maybe I'm overthinking it but it could restrict oil flow causing the same issue or burning out the pump... They make quality swivel ones or banjo bolt ones
If anything the pump will die from running dry while the ignition is on with the engine not running.
Still not an ideal setup.
I can't believe that a company would offer a 10K turbo kit with a return line like that and no scavenge pump. I blew a turbo on my honda civic because I had a 90* in the line, this is just ignorance. Can't wait to see if finished.
I love the channel keep it coming thank you!!!
Sam always has the best segway to the sponsors.
I hate sponsors on some channels but with Sam as long as the content keeps coming I’ll watch the plugs because they’re usually interesting, the one with the tires on the last video for example, perfectly incorporated
Ah my dads a vet and has a couple of them his one has another dial for the opposite way so does up down left right. But that's neat they finally made ones for cars that are a decent price. My dad has had his for at least 20 years
I was a resiratory therapist. We used smaller versions of these scopes to look inside patients lungs. Nice tech! 😊
So is there any updates on this car? Or is this gone to the field to never be seen again?
Hey sam you should add a oil catch can
Just installed feal 441 on 99 Carrera 4, amazing upgrade and relatively low cost
Got to love your thought process, very engaging.
Great job fixing all the problems with the 3-letter turbo kit. Now you can anticipate a rod coming thru the block as stock Porsches are not meant to be hotrodded like SBCs.
14:48 - so how does the balancing part look like and how hard is that one to do?
Hey bud,
I watch a lot of your videos. It’s nice to hear someone not complain or bitch about things. You have a good attitude and enjoy your content.
Aloha from Tennessee
Sam these look so much better without those two “bumperettes” on the rear!
That company needs to be called out
With that low position of oil scavenging I'd consider to have a T-coupling at the oil exit on the turbo and a vacuum pump at a higher location with an oil separator before it. A bit complicated from one perspective but you'll have less stuff low down that can get damaged if you hit something.
Put some rubber between the pump and the cover will help quieten the noise of the pump as the cover is magnifying the noise of the pump …
Worked at a tractor store for q few years. Once we had a new tractor repeatedly in for a mysterious issue. After months of scanning, disassembling, contacting reps and engineers for help... The issue ended up being a screw that had come loose and kept lodging itself in the turbo.
I think I’d rather put it back to stock!
Yeah, I'm sure it's fun to have a boosted Cayman, but these aftermarket kits always seem to lead to various non-stop problems. Turbo kits are for the birds.
I was thinking this, after recently suffering an engine fire in my 2008 Abarth Grande Punto Esseesse, to which a previous owner had fitted an aftermarket big turbo kit - the whole front end of the car got burned out. If it was left stock, it would probably still be running today. :(
what's that disconnected 'vent' how from the silver nipple.. saw tht in the turbo rebuild vid.
It's good that you cleaned the oxygen sensor and the check engine light didn't flash. Someone taught me that fix a long time ago.
I’m a former Porsche owner
In my experience it’s best to keep the suspension very close to stock unless you’re a famous race driver I know what you’re doing horses don’t ride soft to begin with no need to make it worse
My best wishes always from Las Vegas craig
Please forgive the typo it’s Porsche not horses
Stay away from AI there’s too many software mistakes that could be fatal
Just as in the short message the speech to text is made three gross errors
It never ceases to amaze the ingenuity of German engineering. And when they get it right, you end up with brilliant cars like the VW. The same can be said for when they get it spectacularly wrong in as much as removing something as mundane as a spark plug. As an example. WTF.
A little trick from an old pipefitter that did Hydraulics use hard set pipe dope and you can just spin it and stop it where it needs to be and it'll lock that fitting right in
i think a tune can greatly reduce the problems you have and the you know the engine is optimized so any other problem will be pretty easy to know what the problem is then
which version did you use to look in the spark plug hole? directed 3 lens or axial rotation with 2 lens..
I worked at Oehlins some time ago and they produce incredible suspension kits for Porsche at horrendous prices, but boy these things do really transform and enhance ride (!) and roadholding making the car a lot more inspiring and safer to drive at the limit. Highly recommended but will cost an arm and a leg... 😂😂😂
my experience with turbos i ran 0W20 oil. you want the oil moving...love your car..
Would you need to account for the extra oil in the added in line reservoir and add a bit more oil than normal when you do an oil change?
I scored a full set of Cayman R Suspension, in really good condition, for my 987 Cayman S. Hoping that'll be the best for looks and handling! It was only £500 the lot (and yes it is genuine and has provenance)
Pull the plugs from the wheel well - so much easier on a Boxster or Cayman.
If your reusing the same compressor / turbine assy I do not see any value in re balancing as long as you mark the correct orientation for re assembly.
That setup was never going to work without a scavenge pump. Bizarre anyone would even install it that way originally.
Bizarre that the retailer would sell it without. It should be part of the kit.
If the seals are working, you wouldn't need to pump the oil out, no?
@@Netherlands031 The way turbo seals work they always have a small gap in them. They are actually called piston rings because they are metal rings with a slit in them to account for heat expansion. If the center housing gets filled with oil and begins to pressurize, the oil will push past the rings, especially on deceleration and when the housings are under the least pressure or vacuum. Any turbo setup with the center housing of the turbo lower than the top of the oil pan will generally need a scavenge pump to ensure proper drainage.
Love M.T.L Canada Québec merci 😮
12:50 I think you have to do between 60-80 miles for the O2 sensors to be in a ready state to throw that code. When you clear the codes it can reset that requirement. There is sometimes two other ways the pcm puts them in a ready state. X number of restart for a few minutes each, or a specific set of rpm/load states that can vary wildly but is usually very specific in the factory manual.
TLDR that code might not be gone, just squelched.
please forgive me on this, i just saw the work you did the turbo, great job, i also saw wht looks like "extra; grease around it, if u view the video you posted esp at the end you see what im refering to. it was at the very end where i think you pulled the new one you installed.
ayy he's back
I'd be a bit more liberal with the copper slip on the new O2 sensors in future, it will wreck the sensor if it comes into contact.
MCS motion control suspension. That's the brand to use.
What happened to the 1 hour Range Rover video from a few days ago?
That was a livestream
It was a Livestream here's the link: ruclips.net/user/liveoJL-AvzTaRU?feature=share
I'm guessing we never get an update video...
Why isn't the turbo draining the oil fast enough? I get the oil line is not gravity activated - but is this because its after market and designed for a car which has the line running downwards?
Sam! I like these kinda of build / repairs.
Wouldn't an oil restrictor on the input side of the turbo been just as effective?
May be helpful, but can't resolve the oil trying to drain uphill
Hair looks good Sam! Ready for the Holidays.
Who saw the deer?? 😂 15:32
Nice creative editing to the thumbnail!
I can't unsee samcrac sucking on that water bottle......
Can you buy the turbo cartridge already built and balanced?
I'd say taking the exhaust out and cleaning it the whole inside will help on every way, just with pressure and sand over the tube. This may helps a bit on it, keep going forward buddy, peace👌🏻