I spent 45 minutes trying to remove the last lug nut off a F150 - impact gun, breaker bar with 48 inch cheater - stood on it, and nothing happened. I found your video, hit the socket on the lug 5 times with a 3lb hammer, and it came right off. Thank you!!!
@@donames6941I've been using it for over 2 decades, but not on the mating surface of an acorn lug nut to the rim as Kenny suggested (and still have the same bottle 😂) I don't slather it on, but just a very small dab & of course I recheck the torque after about 50 miles as well
@@donames6941 that doesn’t happen, you just make sure to retorque the nuts a few times after you drive it around a bit, just like you’re supposed to when you don’t use antisieze - I use a skim of antisieze on everywheel I install and never have an issue
@@donames6941 I have used a smear of anti-seize on all wheel fixings on cars trucks and buses for 45 years and never had a single nut come loose. Never had 1 seize on either.
Old timers used to say, Don't force it, get a bigger wrench. Same with hammers. Get a bigger hammer. I heard my grandfather say those or similar statements hundreds of times. Impact force beats shear force in this application.
Thank you for posting this! Took my car to Wal-Mart for 2 pre order tires to be installed by their "trained professional technicians"...One rear lug nut would not come loose even after two different impact wrenches and half can of "Break Away" penetrating oil. Looked up "stuck lug nuts" on RUclips and found your video. Called the supervisor over and showed it to him. He got a 3 lb. sledge and tapped the socket a couple of times. Nothing. I asked them to let me hit it (in case they were afraid of breaking something). They rolled the car out of the bay and handed me the hammer. - whacked it 6 or 7 good blows and said "try it now"..... Came Right OFF ! bingo! Changing 2 rear tires "only" took 2 and a half hours, but we "got 'er done" !
Used this method many times working matinance for gravel pits, wonderful way to remove a stuck bolt in a threaded plate or structure, just hit it square and don't deform the head.
Mmmmm....on big rigs..on some trucks there is ahead of axle nuts not wheel nuts , cups or acorn you might say, always get the split ones, meaning there's a cut portion, they aren't solid all around. Them ones are easy to get off, the solid ones are a pitta to get off. In your case, if the hammer trick doesn't work, I would use freeze off, it's a spray that cool's the fastener down to -60 in a few seconds and what it does is breaks the bond between two pieces of metal. Works like a charm on any rusted on fastener. thanks for the vid, be well!
I know this as “Shocking the Threads”. I’ve got a block hammer I use that’s fondly referred to as “My Friend”. He often ‘talks’ to stubborn nuts and bolts. I’m really lucky that I have a small, portable 24 litre air compressor at home. I hook it up to a hand held air hammer and “Brrrup” the socket the same way you used the BFH. This sounds like the classic Aluminium + Steel = seriously stubborn fastener and the skin off your knuckles.
I live in the rust belt. I used to run two garages back in the day. I've been putting a light coat of "never sieze" on lug nuts, lug bolts, and studs for decades and decades. I also put it on the threaded portion of valve stems, especially if the car has metal caps. Never had a single problem. Many people don't like this practice, but it works. Especially good for the old splined spinners on foreign sports cars.
Neat trick to get those acorn nuts free... never seen it personally seized to the rim like that before 😮 dissimilar metals so just happen with aluminum alloy rims? Never seize compound is my friend in the North East as well. 😅
Today I was trying absolutely everything to remove 3 blocked bolts on my car. I really tried everything, so I went to a garage and they miraculously knew about this trick and it worked perfectly, this is the best and safest method to follow if this happens to you too 😊
Hi Ken, I saw that you pulled upwards on the breaker bar. I pulled my back out one time doing that. I always put the bar on so that I use my weight to push the bar down. Much easier. just sayin.
The hammer method is a good fix, if you shoot some aerokroil in that stubborn lug hole, it will help break the friction of the corrosion. I find a light coating of copper nickel anti-seize stays in place a little longer than the brake grease.
When I was young and even more dumb than I am now I had a steel wheel rust to a brake rotor. It took a lot to break that free. Asked a mechanic about it and he told me to use white lithium grease on the rotor or drum before installing the wheel. He also told me to use a little anti seize for the lugs and the mating surfaces on the lug nuts. Never had another problem and I drive old cars up in the rust belt. Lots of people say don’t use any type of oil or anti seize on lugs. Personally I think that is baloney if you torque the nuts properly. If anything a little lube helps set the torque correctly. They don’t get loose and they come off easy. But do what you are comfortable with. Lots of the problems in my opinion is failure to torque correctly. I see the mechanics where I work grab a torque stick which I don’t trust or worse yet just drive them home with an impact. Who cares, it’s a customer’s car and the next guys problem right? I also remember when I was a teenager my girlfriend”s father had trouble breaking a lug nut free. He left the other lug nuts slightly loose and took a slow speed run up and down the block and it came free after that. I have never tried that but it worked for him. Sort of like the BFH trick but in a pinch you could try it roadside.
I got lucky, replacing rounded over lug nuts on a 2005 GMC 2500HD last week; several nuts appeared to be corroded at the alloy wheel, I purchased a big breaker bar a few years ago to compensate for old age. I put my body weight on the bar, then bounced just a bit and they all broke loose. Truck was in MI but now enjoys salt free AZ. I had never heard of lug nuts shearing off, probably Chinese metallurgy.
The wheel stealers use another method to free wheel locks - they loosen the other lug nuts a bit and let the customer drive for a few weeks and do the job helping them to remove wheel lock "by hand".
I have put a dab of never seize on the tapered seat of the lug nut and a dab on the threads of the stud and torqued the nuts to specs never had a wheel come loose especially you have aluminum rims been doing this for the last 30 years since I bought my suburban with factory aluminum wheels and 8 lugs back in 1990. Saved myself a lot of aggravation and back pain 😂
Older cars are NOT the problem! It's the newer cars that have aluminum rims. When you put aluminum and steel together then add a chemical such as salt, it seems to fuse them together. It's a good idea to loosen and retighten them a couple times a year!
@@dw3094 By "older cars" I meant cars that have been subejcted to salt during the winters for more than say, 10 years. The last car I owned with steel rims was made in 1982, over 40 years ago.
That works so well, you saved me a whole heap of pain! Managed to split a socket in half so had to use a loose one. Word of warning, the loose one flew off when I hit it and just missed my face so a chainsaw helmet and visor are a good idea. Thanks again.
Kenny sir, you are good... i`m a subscriber, retired foreign car mechanic ...you have shared so many valuable lessons- this one in particular i like...thanks...
Best to use a tire chock so ur pawl doesn’t get abused. Use it on at least 2 tires. U can also use an extension and set up a jack stand to help leverage downward force if u stand on ur breaker bar. Or u can introduce a floor jack to crank upward. Using a BFH can cause BFPs. Or get urself a 40” breaker bar with a 3/4 drive.
I hate those type lugs, nice trick. Back many moons ago, I worked for a Goodyear store and had a customer ask me not to use the impact on his wheels, because he claimed he couldn't get them off. I took him in the back, even though I wasn't supposed to. I showed him the difference in using an impact and using the 4 way. I told him if I used that 4 way, for sure he would never get them off.
Great Hack. The Steel Lug Nut becomes bonded to the Alloy wheel via Galvanic Action. I put a light smear of Never Seize on mine in the tapered area you describe.
That’s a great trick , years ago my grandpa would laugh at us young know it alls struggling with something like that on the farm. He would say , here’s an old Indian trick that a young cowboy showed him
About 300 years ago I had a VW beetle with overtorqued lug nuts. One breaker bar, one eight foot pipe and a pair or steel shank boots jumping on the pipe removed those nuts. But Those nuts were made in Germany, not China.
That's a good tip, Kenny. I never thought about that, most people would have just gorilla-gripped that breaker bar. You're the only one I've seen on YT mention that about the acorn part seizing to the rim instead of the lug stud. Thanks for sharing.
I have invested in a Torque multiplier. It puts smooth constant pressure and that has worked for me. Also run a small grinder over that rim to smooth out any knicks that caused the lock up.
I just lived this out times 6 with my F150. I whaled on those lugs, took 45 minutes and my Milwaukee hd impact gun, but they all came off, with the aerokroil as well.
Great tip. I can think of several other things I would have tried but I doubt that I would have tried beating on it with a 16 lb sledgehammer. Fast easy option…..a little counterintuitive but brilliant.
Dissimilar metals + water = galvanic corrosion. Big fun (not). Great tip; hopefully I shan't have to use it with the family brake jobs I'll have in the near future. 😉
I does it with penetrating oil, put the breaker bar so it's closer to the ground, then use a floor jack to slowly jack up the handle, it will break it free every time.
Ive broken three or four of those dumb Chrysler studs with a tire iron. The studs break off completely at the base never just the "socket" portion as you described. But yeah got a bfh and pounded out the broken stud and replaced with doorman studs never had that problem the next brake job ir tire rotation. Only the factory studs on steel wheels (no alloys) were the issue. Was actually told that Chrysler studs were problematic by a tire technician.
Don't pull up on the breaker bar Kenny! Get on the other side and push down using your weight. I actually pulled my right arm out of my shoulder socket pulling up on a breaker bar trying to remove a wheel from my F150!!!!
It was an "oh my" moment when I realized the problem was not at the threads. I like that idea of antiseize or a dab of brake lube on the outside of the acorn. As you say, not on the threads, a little corrosion is helpful there.
I am subscribing to your channel. I was just on my way to buy used wheels for my liberty. Thinking is about time to torch the crap out of it. Gonna try this next. Always scared, what if a get a flat tire then people are going to think what a useless person. “Can’t get a tire off” trust me I’ve thought about it that way. Maybe this people ran into the same problem and there I was thinking negative about them. But once again thank you so much SIR. I will post back on it.
I had a 1989 Cherokee with a seized lug one time. Sheared the drive (square) end of an old original 3/8 drive Snap On extension (the full shaft diameter style, not the necked down version they sell now). Broke two Craftsman 1/2" breaker bars before the third one got it. Still have that bar. Wish I knew this trick.
Wow I have changed alot of tires working in a tire shop, l never had a lug nut brake liklike you mentioned, snapped a lot of studs! But l too always hammer the lug nuts if lm reaching the point that l suspect trouble!🤣
I had a car once where the rims weren't taken off the hubs for 12 years. At least it had all weather/all season tyres on that were that old. You could drive it without the wheel nuts. They just couldn't be removed. So what we did is just remove them with the brake discs in the front and the drums in the rear to change the tyres. Probably still like that today if that car wasn't scrapped
Those nuts are made in China, they are only strong enough to hold an aluminum alloy wheel, no stronger. Stronger would cost $1 more. Per nut. Times twenty per car. Times three million cars.
I wish I had seen your video before trying to take the wheel off my Citroen C3 Picasso. So far, two sheared wheel bolts, one snapped wheel wrench and a snapped 1/2" extension.
How often do you have to change the rear brakes? If they last 3 to 4 times longer than the front then the brake bias is set wrong and the fronts are doing too much of the work. Maybe your proportioning valve has always been defective or out of adjustment.
The thing that’s always pissed me off is that I know the last time I had the tire off I did not over tighten the lug, actually I am in the habit of torquing them 90% of the time. I find if tightening onto a steel rim the torque isn’t as critical if I accidentally over tighten.
Hi,I missed your talk show last Sunday. I am having a hard time finding their current shows on their site too.I tend to snap them right off with the impact wrench.
Many thanks 🙏 I bent my ratchet with cheater bar and used electric impact gun and no dice... But your trick worked so far, but now impact needs charged. But I'm hopeful now 🙏
More than once I’ve heard you say you don’t need to put fresh coating of oil on an oil filter or on threads, little brake grease and problem solved. Take the time to prevent this from happening!
I spent 45 minutes trying to remove the last lug nut off a F150 - impact gun, breaker bar with 48 inch cheater - stood on it, and nothing happened. I found your video, hit the socket on the lug 5 times with a 3lb hammer, and it came right off. Thank you!!!
I know exactly what you went through, I couldn’t believe it tried your list- 3/4” drive and a 4 Foot torque wrench 😂
@@Liberatus Pure trauma!
Put anti seize on the studs while the tire is removed. This prevents them from seizing. Same goes for the back of the rotors.
@@toddh6234 Never had it happen before. Will definitely be using antiseize from now on. It was ridiculous!
Just snapped my breaker bar.... will give this a go, wish me luck.
Mechanics in the rust belt area have an extra level of talent.
LOL
"Do it up with anti seize, undo it with ease."That is the slogan here in Aus and it works.
I have had anti seize to cause the nuts to come lose on there own too and the wheel fall off when driving
@@donames6941I've been using it for over 2 decades, but not on the mating surface of an acorn lug nut to the rim as Kenny suggested
(and still have the same bottle 😂)
I don't slather it on, but just a very small dab & of course I recheck the torque after about 50 miles as well
@@donames6941 fair enough, personally I have never had a problem like that. I use the stuff on everything
@@donames6941 that doesn’t happen, you just make sure to retorque the nuts a few times after you drive it around a bit, just like you’re supposed to when you don’t use antisieze - I use a skim of antisieze on everywheel I install and never have an issue
@@donames6941 I have used a smear of anti-seize on all wheel fixings on cars trucks and buses for 45 years and never had a single nut come loose. Never had 1 seize on either.
Old timers used to say, Don't force it, get a bigger wrench. Same with hammers. Get a bigger hammer. I heard my grandfather say those or similar statements hundreds of times. Impact force beats shear force in this application.
Thank you for posting this! Took my car to Wal-Mart for 2 pre order tires to be installed by their "trained professional technicians"...One rear lug nut would not come loose even after two different impact wrenches and half can of "Break Away" penetrating oil. Looked up "stuck lug nuts" on RUclips and found your video. Called the supervisor over and showed it to him. He got a 3 lb. sledge and tapped the socket a couple of times. Nothing. I asked them to let me hit it (in case they were afraid of breaking something). They rolled the car out of the bay and handed me the hammer. - whacked it 6 or 7 good blows and said "try it now"..... Came Right OFF ! bingo! Changing 2 rear tires "only" took 2 and a half hours, but we "got 'er done" !
I have learned to drive a few meters with the other bolts or screws loose so the one that is stuck loosens.
Hmm. Might be something in what you are saying.
Awesome trick, you can heat them also.
DO NOT heat wheel nuts. It softens the steel and increases the risk of studs breaking off days later when you are out driving.
Thank you for the tip! Who would know except you? These tips can ultimately save us time and money.
Another thing to worry about with trying to change my tire. Thanks for the warning of what else can go wrong. Blessings. Peace. Love wins
Chrysler had/has those wonderful lug nuts with the cover caps,those were always fun!
Oh snap, I think I seen the same on my 2006 Nissan Altima... time to order a one piece acorn lug nut set😢
I've dealt with that type of lug nut on toyota and ford too
Ya and if it old chrysler the nuts on the driver side are reverse thread so that really causes a problem
@@kellismith4329 what year and model specifically???
Haven't seen a left hand thread lug bolt or nut since I've been driving in 1987
@@ricebikepretty much any chrysler product built before 1972, unless someone has already converted it
Used this method many times working matinance for gravel pits, wonderful way to remove a stuck bolt in a threaded plate or structure, just hit it square and don't deform the head.
Mmmmm....on big rigs..on some trucks there is ahead of axle nuts not wheel nuts , cups or acorn you might say, always get the split ones, meaning there's a cut portion, they aren't solid all around. Them ones are easy to get off, the solid ones are a pitta to get off.
In your case, if the hammer trick doesn't work, I would use freeze off, it's a spray that cool's the fastener down to -60 in a few seconds and what it does is breaks the bond between two pieces of metal. Works like a charm on any rusted on fastener.
thanks for the vid, be well!
I know this as “Shocking the Threads”. I’ve got a block hammer I use that’s fondly referred to as “My Friend”. He often ‘talks’ to stubborn nuts and bolts.
I’m really lucky that I have a small, portable 24 litre air compressor at home. I hook it up to a hand held air hammer and “Brrrup” the socket the same way you used the BFH.
This sounds like the classic Aluminium + Steel = seriously stubborn fastener and the skin off your knuckles.
I live in the rust belt. I used to run two garages back in the day. I've been putting a light coat of "never sieze" on lug nuts, lug bolts, and studs for decades and decades. I also put it on the threaded portion of valve stems, especially if the car has metal caps. Never had a single problem. Many people don't like this practice, but it works. Especially good for the old splined spinners on foreign sports cars.
Neat trick to get those acorn nuts free... never seen it personally seized to the rim like that before 😮 dissimilar metals so just happen with aluminum alloy rims?
Never seize compound is my friend in the North East as well. 😅
Today I was trying absolutely everything to remove 3 blocked bolts on my car. I really tried everything, so I went to a garage and they miraculously knew about this trick and it worked perfectly, this is the best and safest method to follow if this happens to you too 😊
@MrShootMania It saves a lot of aggravation. Keep wrenching! Kenny
@WrenchingWithKenny thanks kenny you are amazing, i'll keep this method in an area of my head until I die!
Hi Ken, I saw that you pulled upwards on the breaker bar. I pulled my back out one time doing that. I always put the bar on so that I use my weight to push the bar down. Much easier. just sayin.
Anti-seize works best as rust inhibitor property and also anti-seize the wheel center hub area .
The hammer method is a good fix, if you shoot some aerokroil in that stubborn lug hole, it will help break the friction of the corrosion. I find a light coating of copper nickel anti-seize stays in place a little longer than the brake grease.
Great tip!!! Been there and didn't have a BFH, but a dead blow hammer helped, along with PB Blaster and a torch, and prayer!!!
When I was young and even more dumb than I am now I had a steel wheel rust to a brake rotor. It took a lot to break that free. Asked a mechanic about it and he told me to use white lithium grease on the rotor or drum before installing the wheel. He also told me to use a little anti seize for the lugs and the mating surfaces on the lug nuts. Never had another problem and I drive old cars up in the rust belt. Lots of people say don’t use any type of oil or anti seize on lugs. Personally I think that is baloney if you torque the nuts properly. If anything a little lube helps set the torque correctly. They don’t get loose and they come off easy. But do what you are comfortable with.
Lots of the problems in my opinion is failure to torque correctly. I see the mechanics where I work grab a torque stick which I don’t trust or worse yet just drive them home with an impact. Who cares, it’s a customer’s car and the next guys problem right?
I also remember when I was a teenager my girlfriend”s father had trouble breaking a lug nut free. He left the other lug nuts slightly loose and took a slow speed run up and down the block and it came free after that. I have never tried that but it worked for him. Sort of like the BFH trick but in a pinch you could try it roadside.
this worked perfectly when nothing else would. thank you
I got lucky, replacing rounded over lug nuts on a 2005 GMC 2500HD last week; several nuts appeared to be corroded at the alloy wheel, I purchased a big breaker bar a few years ago to compensate for old age. I put my body weight on the bar, then bounced just a bit and they all broke loose. Truck was in MI but now enjoys salt free AZ. I had never heard of lug nuts shearing off, probably Chinese metallurgy.
Youth and enthusiasm won't fix this problem, but age and treachery will! The old line didn't include the word experience, but you I hope get the grin.
The wheel stealers use another method to free wheel locks - they loosen the other lug nuts a bit and let the customer drive for a few weeks and do the job helping them to remove wheel lock "by hand".
I have put a dab of never seize on the tapered seat of the lug nut and a dab on the threads of the stud and torqued the nuts to specs never had a wheel come loose especially you have aluminum rims been doing this for the last 30 years since I bought my suburban with factory aluminum wheels and 8 lugs back in 1990. Saved myself a lot of aggravation and back pain 😂
Once again a lifesaver solution... don't get mad, just beat it.
BFH for the win! Thanks for this idea. I will definitely add it to my "bag of tricks".
Wow! Huge thumbs up for this! For all of us with older cars, this could be a life-saver!
Older cars are NOT the problem! It's the newer cars that have aluminum rims. When you put aluminum and steel together then add a chemical such as salt, it seems to fuse them together. It's a good idea to loosen and retighten them a couple times a year!
@@dw3094 By "older cars" I meant cars that have been subejcted to salt during the winters for more than say, 10 years. The last car I owned with steel rims was made in 1982, over 40 years ago.
That works so well, you saved me a whole heap of pain! Managed to split a socket in half so had to use a loose one. Word of warning, the loose one flew off when I hit it and just missed my face so a chainsaw helmet and visor are a good idea. Thanks again.
Kenny sir, you are good... i`m a subscriber, retired foreign car mechanic ...you have shared so many valuable lessons- this one in particular i like...thanks...
The best thing I learned so far is not to drain anything until you know you can open the hood or get the filter off.
Thanks for the advice. If you know you know. A lot do not. 👍
As soon as I saw the BFH I realized what you were going to do ! Great idea . Thanks so much !…….
Thanks for the heads up. New trick.
I learned something.
Great tip Kenny! I use this method all the time but now since driving pretty new vehicles most of the time, I haven't used it in a long time!
Best to use a tire chock so ur pawl doesn’t get abused. Use it on at least 2 tires. U can also use an extension and set up a jack stand to help leverage downward force if u stand on ur breaker bar. Or u can introduce a floor jack to crank upward. Using a BFH can cause BFPs. Or get urself a 40” breaker bar with a 3/4 drive.
Great tip Kenny! Enjoy all your vids!
I hate those type lugs, nice trick. Back many moons ago, I worked for a Goodyear store and had a customer ask me not to use the impact on his wheels, because he claimed he couldn't get them off. I took him in the back, even though I wasn't supposed to. I showed him the difference in using an impact and using the 4 way. I told him if I used that 4 way, for sure he would never get them off.
Great Hack. The Steel Lug Nut becomes bonded to the Alloy wheel via Galvanic Action. I put a light smear of Never Seize on mine in the tapered area you describe.
Well I would have never thought of that, seems backwards to hammer it on when you're trying to take it off, good information.
Brilliant tip. I would never have thought of that.
I have seen the lug nut seized on the lug bolt. Using a pipe for more leverage snapped the lug bolt.
That’s a great trick , years ago my grandpa would laugh at us young know it alls struggling with something like that on the farm.
He would say , here’s an old Indian trick that a young cowboy showed him
About 300 years ago I had a VW beetle with overtorqued lug nuts. One breaker bar, one eight foot pipe and a pair or steel shank boots jumping on the pipe removed those nuts.
But
Those nuts were made in Germany, not China.
That's a good tip, Kenny. I never thought about that, most people would have just gorilla-gripped that breaker bar. You're the only one I've seen on YT mention that about the acorn part seizing to the rim instead of the lug stud. Thanks for sharing.
Hi thank you so much dont have a great breaker bar this method worked
I'm glad it worked for you. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Awesome idea. Never had this happen but now I'm ready if it does.
Thank you
I am definitely going to try this. Thank you for the tip.
Your go to love that dog.
Great tip Kenny - i'd never seen that before. ALSO thank you for using the tripod. It makes it easier to see what you are doing.
I have invested in a Torque multiplier. It puts smooth constant pressure and that has worked for me. Also run a small grinder over that rim to smooth out any knicks that caused the lock up.
Thanks for that tip!
"I'm lucky I did not break the tail light" LMAO and almost spewed my coffee this morning.. Thanks Kenny and great tip.. Keep wrenching my friend!
Took your advice and it worked. Took a few big hits with a large hammer. Thank you
I just lived this out times 6 with my F150. I whaled on those lugs, took 45 minutes and my Milwaukee hd impact gun, but they all came off, with the aerokroil as well.
Imma gonna be doing this for sure. Thank you for the video! Dont think I'd ever seen this tactic before
Glad I could help. Thanks for commenting & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
Great tip. I can think of several other things I would have tried but I doubt that I would have tried beating on it with a 16 lb sledgehammer. Fast easy option…..a little counterintuitive but brilliant.
Dissimilar metals + water = galvanic corrosion. Big fun (not). Great tip; hopefully I shan't have to use it with the family brake jobs I'll have in the near future. 😉
Good tech tip !! Thanks !!
Cheers!
very good advice. I've done this trick several times. also Chevy Silverado 3/4 and one tons are bad at this....keep on wrenching...
I does it with penetrating oil, put the breaker bar so it's closer to the ground, then use a floor jack to slowly jack up the handle, it will break it free every time.
Ive broken three or four of those dumb Chrysler studs with a tire iron. The studs break off completely at the base never just the "socket" portion as you described. But yeah got a bfh and pounded out the broken stud and replaced with doorman studs never had that problem the next brake job ir tire rotation. Only the factory studs on steel wheels (no alloys) were the issue. Was actually told that Chrysler studs were problematic by a tire technician.
Don't pull up on the breaker bar Kenny! Get on the other side and push down using your weight. I actually pulled my right arm out of my shoulder socket pulling up on a breaker bar trying to remove a wheel from my F150!!!!
Guy knows his stuff
Thank you!
I hope it helped. Thanks for watching 🔧
It was an "oh my" moment when I realized the problem was not at the threads. I like that idea of antiseize or a dab of brake lube on the outside of the acorn. As you say, not on the threads, a little corrosion is helpful there.
Brilliant 👍🏾
Excellent!
Great tip.
Hope to see you next time I am in Durham
Keep Wrenching
I am subscribing to your channel. I was just on my way to buy used wheels for my liberty. Thinking is about time to torch the crap out of it. Gonna try this next. Always scared, what if a get a flat tire then people are going to think what a useless person. “Can’t get a tire off” trust me I’ve thought about it that way. Maybe this people ran into the same problem and there I was thinking negative about them. But once again thank you so much SIR. I will post back on it.
I'll try that . Thanks.
Good idea!👍
Better to push down on the breaker bar. Save your back!
I had a 1989 Cherokee with a seized lug one time. Sheared the drive (square) end of an old original 3/8 drive Snap On extension (the full shaft diameter style, not the necked down version they sell now). Broke two Craftsman 1/2" breaker bars before the third one got it. Still have that bar. Wish I knew this trick.
Good job. That’s Smart.
Wow I have changed alot of tires working in a tire shop, l never had a lug nut brake liklike you mentioned, snapped a lot of studs! But l too always hammer the lug nuts if lm reaching the point that l suspect trouble!🤣
I had a car once where the rims weren't taken off the hubs for 12 years.
At least it had all weather/all season tyres on that were that old.
You could drive it without the wheel nuts. They just couldn't be removed.
So what we did is just remove them with the brake discs in the front and the drums in the rear to change the tyres.
Probably still like that today if that car wasn't scrapped
Why would a pipe with a breaker bar be a bad thjng. We do it everyday here
Those nuts are made in China, they are only strong enough to hold an aluminum alloy wheel, no stronger.
Stronger would cost $1 more. Per nut. Times twenty per car. Times three million cars.
Did you not listen to the video?
I wish I had seen your video before trying to take the wheel off my Citroen C3 Picasso. So far, two sheared wheel bolts, one snapped wheel wrench and a snapped 1/2" extension.
great video
so the purpose of hitting with a hammer is to force the stuck parts to come unstuck with a bit of brute force?
Gives it a little shock load to break the bond of the corrosion.
I have one on my 2002Grand Cherokee. The nut split in half. The Acorn is still threaded in.
sir your bfh method worked out great im like wow
Might be a good idea to have the e brake set firmly so the park pawl doesnt take too much abuse.
How often do you have to change the rear brakes? If they last 3 to 4 times longer than the front then the brake bias is set wrong and the fronts are doing too much of the work. Maybe your proportioning valve has always been defective or out of adjustment.
Awesome video
The thing that’s always pissed me off is that I know the last time I had the tire off I did not over tighten the lug, actually I am in the habit of torquing them 90% of the time. I find if tightening onto a steel rim the torque isn’t as critical if I accidentally over tighten.
This man is a legend!
Hi,I missed your talk show last Sunday. I am having a hard time finding their current shows on their site too.I tend to snap them right off with the impact wrench.
Bravo!
Thank you for the video! 😂
It worked!
Many thanks 🙏 I bent my ratchet with cheater bar and used electric impact gun and no dice... But your trick worked so far, but now impact needs charged. But I'm hopeful now 🙏
@joecook4451 I'm glad I could help. You've good this. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
@@WrenchingWithKenny it worked like dream, many thanks !!
More than once I’ve heard you say you don’t need to put fresh coating of oil on an oil filter or on threads, little brake grease and problem solved. Take the time to prevent this from happening!
I learn something new every day, thanks
Okay, a mechanic should know better than to buy a dodge. Expertise is in question now. 😂. You are making Scotty look good.
Great video!
I have seen head seize onto the head bolts to the point we replaced the engine.
Thank you for help. This help me. Wow.
It looks like he was driving it like that for awhile.😂