Very helpful Mark - I've not loved the idea of paying $30 per 2 metre roll of ultrakote. This looks like the most reproduceable method with cheap materials I've found yet, well done.
Hi Mark. - Great video and thanks for sharing it. Really looks great and appears as strong as any solartex or similar covering. Does it work as well on fully sheeted panels ? Also Mark have you tried it on correx or foam models ? I'm a little confused over the dope - do you use non - shrinking dope in the process ? Thanks again Sir - you are about to save us a fortune in not using the Pro Covering Materials ! Kind Regards . . . Eddie.
Glad you like the video, it's certainly very attractive regarding cost. I use shrinking dope, which helps with the tension. The dress lining works even better over sheeting areas. Im a balsa basher so I could not comment regarding foam but it's do cheap its worth experimenting.
@@MarkCroucherRC4fun Many thanks for such a quick reply Mark. I thought non shrinking dope was mentioned in one of your other videos ? Maybe I'm mistaken but I would value your comments.
@@MarkCroucherRC4fun Thanks for the update Mark - I thought I was going twitty as at 6:50 in the video you do mention using Non - Shrinking Dope. So you recommend using Non - Shrinking Dope for best results ? Do you thin the dope down before use with cellulose thinners and if so what sort of dilution do you use please ? Thanks again for being so quick and helpful Mark. Happy Building & Happy Flying ! Best Regards . . . Eddie.
@@EddieSlowhands I Eddie I now only use shrinking and thin down 50/50 after experimenting with both. Use a large flat brush and apply quickly in even strokes.
After covering the bottom (mod podge, fabric, dope) do you use mod podge to attach the upper fabric? Or, does the heat activate the bottom layers sealing dope to attach the upper fabric?
I found a used plane i think using this type of fabric. It is blue but i want to paint it white and orange. What type of paint should i use ans whate painting techniques should i use (brush or spray)? i hope you can advice. Thanks!!!
information :40 folks who choose to replicate an existing/ANTIQUE design should Avoid reproducing the FLAWS in the reference design. a wing is supposed to have a load-bearing main spar, located at THIRTY percent of chord. the aft spar Almost Bisects the ribs; which is the opposite smart. the mass of wing-located servos should be located Forward-of Thirty percent of chord; and, that mass should ALSO be located as far INBOARD as is practical. a pushrod should be PERPENDICULAR to its associated hinge line. d
Mark marvelous job of covering. Jeff in LA 🇺🇸
Very helpful Mark - I've not loved the idea of paying $30 per 2 metre roll of ultrakote. This looks like the most reproduceable method with cheap materials I've found yet, well done.
Try masterclass right their Mark, great idea. SW was really wet, now really windy.
Nice job Mark
I'm surprised to see a wing without 1/16" vertical spar webbing between the ribs!
The spar layout seems to make for an extremely ridged strong wing.
Hi Mark. - Great video and thanks for sharing it. Really looks great and appears as strong as any solartex or similar covering. Does it work as well on fully sheeted panels ? Also Mark have you tried it on correx or foam models ? I'm a little confused over the dope - do you use non - shrinking dope in the process ? Thanks again Sir - you are about to save us a fortune in not using the Pro Covering Materials ! Kind Regards . . . Eddie.
Glad you like the video, it's certainly very attractive regarding cost.
I use shrinking dope, which helps with the tension.
The dress lining works even better over sheeting areas.
Im a balsa basher so I could not comment regarding foam but it's do cheap its worth experimenting.
@@MarkCroucherRC4fun Many thanks for such a quick reply Mark. I thought non shrinking dope was mentioned in one of your other videos ? Maybe I'm mistaken but I would value your comments.
@@EddieSlowhands Ive used both but now think that the shrinking variety gives better results.
@@MarkCroucherRC4fun Thanks for the update Mark - I thought I was going twitty as at 6:50 in the video you do mention using Non - Shrinking Dope. So you recommend using Non - Shrinking Dope for best results ? Do you thin the dope down before use with cellulose thinners and if so what sort of dilution do you use please ? Thanks again for being so quick and helpful Mark. Happy Building & Happy Flying ! Best Regards . . . Eddie.
@@EddieSlowhands I Eddie I now only use shrinking and thin down 50/50 after experimenting with both. Use a large flat brush and apply quickly in even strokes.
Quite brilliant. I will certainly try this on a future model. The only thing I cannot get in Iceland is the shrinking dope (nitro cellulose?)
Its worth trying without the shrinking dope... See what you think
Nice job mark, what do ya use to colour it ? And when do ypu apply
I used emulsion paint (latex in the USA) applied over two to three coats of shrinking dope. Fuel proof is applied to finish.
After covering the bottom (mod podge, fabric, dope) do you use mod podge to attach the upper fabric? Or, does the heat activate the bottom layers sealing dope to attach the upper fabric?
Hi I apply two coats and allow it to dry, the heat from the iron reactivates the glue.
What grit sandpaper did you use to sand in-between coats of hodge podge
It's just a light rub down with 400 grit sandpaper to remove the "fuzz"
what is mod podge, a glue?
Its a type of white glue, Gorilla glue works just as well so does dope.
@@MarkCroucherRC4fun is it a dress makers glue, or a british thing?
@@donlawrence1428 Mod Podge made in the USA 🇺🇸
@@MarkCroucherRC4fun ok thanks
I found a used plane i think using this type of fabric. It is blue but i want to paint it white and orange. What type of paint should i use ans whate painting techniques should i use (brush or spray)? i hope you can advice. Thanks!!!
I used household emulsion paint also known as latex then applied fuel proof to finish.
I hand brushed but spraying will produce a lighter finish.
Is this polyester dressing painted heavier than regular monokote or ultracote?
Its weight is 70gms per sqm unpainted, as commercial fabric coverings comes in at a weight between 90 and 120 I think this is very reasonable.
@@MarkCroucherRC4fun many thanks
Where do you buy your cloth from?
I get my cloth from the local habidashery store.
information :40 folks who choose to replicate an existing/ANTIQUE design should Avoid reproducing the FLAWS in the reference design. a wing is supposed to have a load-bearing main spar, located at THIRTY percent of chord. the aft spar Almost Bisects the ribs; which is the opposite smart. the mass of wing-located servos should be located Forward-of Thirty percent of chord; and, that mass should ALSO be located as far INBOARD as is practical. a pushrod should be PERPENDICULAR to its associated hinge line. d
Interesting points made