Hi Dan, Your instructions for the applying epoxy, and fiberglass to strength ting the center wing is spot on! I’m currently building a Joe Bridi oz5306 RCM Trainer in honor of my deceased cousin who passed away two years ago. Your videos will really help in constructing my very first balsam plane. I appreciate your knowledge, and input. Bob
Honor planes are a great way to build closure and grieve. I built one to honor a flying buddy that was very inspirational in my life and left us quite early and tragically. It helped to build that model in the healing process.
Hey Dan! Thanks for this video, you’re the only person I’ve found who has gone through this process in a clear and comprehensive way! I’m currently working on a ‘stylus’ glider and fiberglassing the joints is the only step left!
Glad it helped you. Hope to bring more technique content soon. Working with all of the cool tools and adhesives we have at our disposal can be tricky, but once you have the knowledge, you can conquer the world.... Well maybe.
Hey Dan, add another one to the list! I just printed off the plans today. I have been out of the hobby for 15 years and got the itch to get back in. I love the 80” - 90ish “ wing span sport planes for gas engines. I’m excited to get started I am just setting up the shop right now. Thanks for what your doing keep it up Matt
Thank you... Subs will come in time I guess, and that's fine. This is a pretty narrow niche of individuals. A very extraordinary and talented group. Thinkers and doers. Wow, I feel like I'm Dr. Xavier, fielding the X-men... Hahaha
Thank you for watching. She can be a ball of mischef. She's a bit bulemic, and threw up on the plans that were spread out on the table one night. Luckily I had a backup set. She's a pretty sweet cat, what my daughter calls aggressively friendly. She wants you to pet her but if you don't she may take a swing at you.
Hi Dan. I would like to build also that plane but: Where can I find the plan ? What size of motor do I need ? I have RCGF 20cc, so maybe should I prescale plan. No problem, I will draw it in Solidworks. Best regards
Oh yeah I almost forgot. I flew for the first time in 15 years last Sunday and brought her home in one piece! It was an old 46 os fun fly plan (yes a hand full) but it felt good to get back on the sticks.
I'm sorry I am just now seeing this hope you are still putting them up. To me when I haven't flown in a while the butterflies happen when when the landing is coming. Do I remember how to do this? After 15 years, I'm impressed. Good job.
Hi Dan, great to see someone applying themselves to this great hobby. I have observed more than a few rookie assumptions going on with your build though. I'm not sure you are open to advice since you seem to be set in your ways but here goes anyway. With any fibreglass to wood application always wet the wood out first to ensure that the resin grabs the wood fibres for the best bond between wood and glasscloth (also carbon fibre etc.). The resin you used in this video is quite thick and viscous and the only reason you may have gotten away with it is because you are using really light and thin glasscloth in place of 'wing bandage'. It was your comment rejecting the benefit of glassing the inside of the front compartment that made me watch this video of your method - now I can see why you may not have considered that route. If you bind the wood and glass in the above mentioned manor there is no need to add 'substantial weight' in pursuance of strength/structural integrity. I may still subscribe to your channel but that is wholly dependent upon the value of future content and whether it contains sound advice on method.
Let me better explain my point here. Fibreglassing a wing joint is a structural function for reinforcing the joint of the panels. The technique in this video is for skinning, which is usually done on a pre-sealed surface and is not usually structural, merely providing a substrate to apply paint for scale finishes. As there is a lot of 'monkey see, monkey do' here on RUclips it is important to know when to apply the correct technique for structural and non structural components of a build. I hope that clears things up.
The "finish" resin takes much longer to cure. Like overnight. I don't know why they even put a number on it like 15 or 20 minute. Maybe that's the pot life for applying. I think you would be better off with the 5 or 30 minute version of Zap epoxy. They will set much faster. Finish resin is designed to be sanded and if you are mounting rhinestones probably not necessary. The 5 and 30 minute versions have a flexible finish that is not good for sanding but will hold stuff like nobody's business. If you ever have to remove something you glued with these, heat is your best choice. Good luck.
Yo Dan Im a real novice to Fibreglassing , when you have stuck down the FB do you just cut off the unstuck cloth and start sanding the edge and if using masking tape does it peel away from the glued area ok ? Thanks ,,TIA
Hi Edwin!!! I have cut epoxy with alcohol before and and no it won’t weaken it. It will be very thin going on and you may want to use more coats if you are trying to fill the weave of the cloth to any degree. Typically if I am doing a big job I will use West Systems epoxy which uses a special mixture ratio. The resin is very thin and it flows nicely without thinning. The hard part about the 50/50 ratio epoxies is the resin over time will get thick so getting it into the mixing cup takes longer, and eyeballing that mixture is tough. I float the bottles in a pan of hot water before I pour them. Once it is in though adding a little alcohol will work nicely to thin it up.
Hallo when i want to do something strong I put the strings opposite direction I Learn That from one That build all 40 years but difficult to cut a hole in it But it is very strong greetings
get your hands on some needle bodies about 20cc size ... then use ne for each part of the epoxy ... and you can then measure identical amounts out and get them where you need them ... I used that method fixing my dads fishing boat from a dead head breech ... it allowed for very precise fitting and concentrations
dont forget cyanoacrylate ... crazy glue ... is soluble in acetone ... also known as Nail polish remover ... at about 10 bucks for a gallon of it ... your wife will never need to buy nail polish remover again .. just refill her bottle as she needs it ... saves you 10 bucks for an ounce of nail polish remover also ...
I'm not sure what you mean by cutting the cured fiberglass. Once it is on the wood, you really don't cut it, but if you are talking about the excess that is hanging over the open bay or an edge, you can cut it with a scissors or exacto knife to get the bulk of it if it is .5 oz cloth or less. For the rough edges, you can carefully sand down on the edge to feather it to the balsa. I would recommend you lay down masking tape on that edge so you don't sand down the unglassed balsa. Take your time and keep a light touch.
im about to use this stuff on a zero ive built , and ive been looking for advise , alot of ppl use toilet paper to remove epoxy excess , and also use a paint brush to put it on with ,
Greg, I have tried many methods to apply resin over the year. Paint brushes, mini rollers, (never tried TP though). The goal of applying the resin is to saturate the glass cloth, but not leave excess pooling of resin. Anything beyond making sure the glass is wet and stuck to the wood is excess weight and really applies no more structural gain to the area applied. So what I do is pour it on, spread it out, and then scrape an old credit card or epoxy paddle across it to pull the excess off until very little more will come off. I have a good friend that uses old playing cards to do his resin jobs the same way. I set the cloth down, and work the resin through from the top... I know some that will paint it to the wood, then apply the cloth. I find it messier that way, but to each there own. But like I said the goal is to make it light and strong. So get as much of that resin back out as possible. Additionally, some will continue to coat the glass with epoxy to fill the weave and make a smooth surface for painting. I fill the weave with either primer, or a low viscosity one part putty (bondo red). This is much easier to sand smooth (epoxy is very hard) and I think is much lighter. Hope this helps glassing is a huge topic in itself, and many ways to do it.
@@Why-ct6kz It's a bit too big to cover in the comments section. Maybe I will write a post in the community section of my page. But for now the best advice in brief form: 1. Make the finish on the sheeting as perfect as you can get prior to putting any resin and glass on. Use your sandpaper to work down high spots, use putties, fillers and CA to fill gaps, holes and low spots. 2. glass the plane in small sections. I limit the amount of resin I am working with to 2 oz. It's actually quite a bit, but a good amount to limit your. 3. Research your paints. I'm assuming you are going to paint it. Make sure your primer, and finish coats are compatible. Fill weave with primer and sand finished primer with a rough up grit so the top coat will stick better. Hope this helps.
Its kind of un avoidable. I try to get it as smooth as I can while its wet, and then sand very lightly on the edges after It has cured to feather it. You have to be gentle not to cut into the sheeting with the sandpaper. Finer grit 220 or 340.
@@Capgains7777 yeh it's that cutting into the sheeting I was hoping someone had come up with a neat trick to make it easy and less risk of sanding groves in the sheeting lol. Glad you have the same difficulty as we do lol. Like the tip on the plastic card spreader. Definitely be using that one in future.
Hello Dan. Well I am complaining!!! You did not finish this fiberglass cloth covering technique. I looked over the other videos you got and did not find the continuation. So, that was not good!!! :(
@@Capgains7777 Dan forgive me. I think I express myself not appropriately, I believe I was jocking. But Dan, it is true. You showed me to place the fiberglass on solid surface, where there is balsa lamination. What about fiberglassing a wing where there are just ribs and no solid surface? That is what I want to make sure how to do. When is ready, let me know!!
@@gonzalo1134 I can't say that I have ever fiberglassed where there is no sheeting. If the wing is primarily open bays with ribs or maybe cap strips on top of ribs then fiberglassing is probably not a good idea. On an open bay wing strength comes from the wing joiner and braces and the covering. If you were to fiberglass over an open area it would be very messy and the glass would droop possibly harden with a warp in the surface. Usually if the areas are open without sheeting the surface is cloth covered. If you are worried about strength there are some strong coverings available. Solartex comes to mind. 21st Century cloth if you can find it. Hope this helps you. Good luck.
@@Capgains7777 Well then, Dan I am most thankful because I have almost no experience. Most likely I will have to use mostly solartex or 21 st century. Again very many thanks!!!!
Dan ONE MORE QUESTION. Are cloth covering also subjected to make it tight with he heating tool? I imagine that also have to be heated to make it straight and tight.
hi dan, new subscriber and fellow builder from iowa. im 59 yrs old and have been building balsa planes since the late 70s and flying for 8 yrs. find you down to earth and easy to watch. build my planes about like you. thanks and happy new year.
Hi Dan,
Your instructions for the applying epoxy, and fiberglass to strength ting the center wing is spot on! I’m currently building a Joe Bridi oz5306 RCM Trainer in honor of my deceased cousin who passed away two years ago. Your videos will really help in constructing my very first balsam plane. I appreciate your knowledge, and input.
Bob
Honor planes are a great way to build closure and grieve. I built one to honor a flying buddy that was very inspirational in my life and left us quite early and tragically. It helped to build that model in the healing process.
Scratch building - rare to see it nowadays - great video
Hey Dan! Thanks for this video, you’re the only person I’ve found who has gone through this process in a clear and comprehensive way! I’m currently working on a ‘stylus’ glider and fiberglassing the joints is the only step left!
Glad it helped you. Hope to bring more technique content soon. Working with all of the cool tools and adhesives we have at our disposal can be tricky, but once you have the knowledge, you can conquer the world.... Well maybe.
Hey Dan, add another one to the list! I just printed off the plans today. I have been out of the hobby for 15 years and got the itch to get back in. I love the 80” - 90ish “ wing span sport planes for gas engines. I’m excited to get started I am just setting up the shop right now. Thanks for what your doing keep it up
Matt
I've built countless planes and i never knew there was such a thing as finishing resin...amazing, im ordering some right now!
Got a kick out of that opening. Lol. For what it's worth, you deserve more subs to be sure.
Thank you... Subs will come in time I guess, and that's fine. This is a pretty narrow niche of individuals. A very extraordinary and talented group. Thinkers and doers. Wow, I feel like I'm Dr. Xavier, fielding the X-men... Hahaha
I just downloaded the plans. Probably will be my first Scratch build. Have built few kit tho... great videos keep on the good work.
Good information sir thanks again for doing this channel no one is doing what you are
Cool, thanks, I was always curious about how to use fibreglass!
Hey, i think your cat was trying to tell you it wants feeding either that or a pee. Great vid btw got my sub. 👍
Thank you for watching. She can be a ball of mischef. She's a bit bulemic, and threw up on the plans that were spread out on the table one night. Luckily I had a backup set. She's a pretty sweet cat, what my daughter calls aggressively friendly. She wants you to pet her but if you don't she may take a swing at you.
@@Capgains7777 LoL Yes i know the type , You will not ignore me. 🐱💻
Hi, would be great if you show us how to make fiberglass cowling from new cowling and to build one from scratch....thanks.
Hi Dan.
I would like to build also that plane but:
Where can I find the plan ? What size of motor do I need ? I have RCGF 20cc, so maybe should I prescale plan. No problem, I will draw it in Solidworks.
Best regards
,,, no answer from Dan, hm.
Actually with that resin, if you are going to be slightly off an exact 50/50 ratio, you would be better having slightly less hardener.
Oh yeah I almost forgot. I flew for the first time in 15 years last Sunday and brought her home in one piece! It was an old 46 os fun fly plan (yes a hand full) but it felt good to get back on the sticks.
I'm sorry I am just now seeing this hope you are still putting them up. To me when I haven't flown in a while the butterflies happen when when the landing is coming. Do I remember how to do this? After 15 years, I'm impressed. Good job.
Hi Dan, great to see someone applying themselves to this great hobby. I have observed more than a few rookie assumptions going on with your build though. I'm not sure you are open to advice since you seem to be set in your ways but here goes anyway.
With any fibreglass to wood application always wet the wood out first to ensure that the resin grabs the wood fibres for the best bond between wood and glasscloth (also carbon fibre etc.).
The resin you used in this video is quite thick and viscous and the only reason you may have gotten away with it is because you are using really light and thin glasscloth in place of 'wing bandage'.
It was your comment rejecting the benefit of glassing the inside of the front compartment that made me watch this video of your method - now I can see why you may not have considered that route. If you bind the wood and glass in the above mentioned manor there is no need to add 'substantial weight' in pursuance of strength/structural integrity.
I may still subscribe to your channel but that is wholly dependent upon the value of future content and whether it contains sound advice on method.
Let me better explain my point here. Fibreglassing a wing joint is a structural function for reinforcing the joint of the panels. The technique in this video is for skinning, which is usually done on a pre-sealed surface and is not usually structural, merely providing a substrate to apply paint for scale finishes.
As there is a lot of 'monkey see, monkey do' here on RUclips it is important to know when to apply the correct technique for structural and non structural components of a build. I hope that clears things up.
I got the same stuff for some rhinestones but I don’t know if I mixed it up right but it’s been sitting for an hr and it’s not getting hard.
The "finish" resin takes much longer to cure. Like overnight. I don't know why they even put a number on it like 15 or 20 minute. Maybe that's the pot life for applying.
I think you would be better off with the 5 or 30 minute version of Zap epoxy. They will set much faster. Finish resin is designed to be sanded and if you are mounting rhinestones probably not necessary. The 5 and 30 minute versions have a flexible finish that is not good for sanding but will hold stuff like nobody's business. If you ever have to remove something you glued with these, heat is your best choice. Good luck.
Yo Dan
Im a real novice to Fibreglassing , when you have stuck down the FB do you just cut off the unstuck cloth and start sanding the edge and if using masking tape does it peel away from the glued area ok ?
Thanks ,,TIA
Hey
What about making the epoxy thinner with alcohol and putting it on with a brush? Will that weaken it?
Hi Edwin!!! I have cut epoxy with alcohol before and and no it won’t weaken it. It will be very thin going on and you may want to use more coats if you are trying to fill the weave of the cloth to any degree. Typically if I am doing a big job I will use West Systems epoxy which uses a special mixture ratio. The resin is very thin and it flows nicely without thinning. The hard part about the 50/50 ratio epoxies is the resin over time will get thick so getting it into the mixing cup takes longer, and eyeballing that mixture is tough. I float the bottles in a pan of hot water before I pour them. Once it is in though adding a little alcohol will work nicely to thin it up.
Hallo when i want to do something strong
I put the strings opposite direction
I Learn That from one That build all 40 years but difficult to cut a hole in it
But it is very strong greetings
Every video is better if there is cat in it. PS: Very nice explanation.
Is the catalyst brown because its full of water
get your hands on some needle bodies about 20cc size ... then use ne for each part of the epoxy ... and you can then measure identical amounts out and get them where you need them ... I used that method fixing my dads fishing boat from a dead head breech ... it allowed for very precise fitting and concentrations
dont forget cyanoacrylate ... crazy glue ... is soluble in acetone ... also known as Nail polish remover ... at about 10 bucks for a gallon of it ... your wife will never need to buy nail polish remover again .. just refill her bottle as she needs it ... saves you 10 bucks for an ounce of nail polish remover also ...
Can you please show how to cut the fiberglass once cured
I'm not sure what you mean by cutting the cured fiberglass. Once it is on the wood, you really don't cut it, but if you are talking about the excess that is hanging over the open bay or an edge, you can cut it with a scissors or exacto knife to get the bulk of it if it is .5 oz cloth or less. For the rough edges, you can carefully sand down on the edge to feather it to the balsa. I would recommend you lay down masking tape on that edge so you don't sand down the unglassed balsa. Take your time and keep a light touch.
@@Capgains7777 thank you Dan. You answered my question. I was talking about the excess on the sides. I will add tape. Thank you again.
im about to use this stuff on a zero ive built , and ive been looking for advise , alot of ppl use toilet paper to remove epoxy excess , and also use a paint brush to put it on with ,
Greg, I have tried many methods to apply resin over the year. Paint brushes, mini rollers, (never tried TP though). The goal of applying the resin is to saturate the glass cloth, but not leave excess pooling of resin. Anything beyond making sure the glass is wet and stuck to the wood is excess weight and really applies no more structural gain to the area applied. So what I do is pour it on, spread it out, and then scrape an old credit card or epoxy paddle across it to pull the excess off until very little more will come off. I have a good friend that uses old playing cards to do his resin jobs the same way. I set the cloth down, and work the resin through from the top... I know some that will paint it to the wood, then apply the cloth. I find it messier that way, but to each there own. But like I said the goal is to make it light and strong. So get as much of that resin back out as possible.
Additionally, some will continue to coat the glass with epoxy to fill the weave and make a smooth surface for painting. I fill the weave with either primer, or a low viscosity one part putty (bondo red). This is much easier to sand smooth (epoxy is very hard) and I think is much lighter. Hope this helps glassing is a huge topic in itself, and many ways to do it.
@@Capgains7777 thanks for quick reply , i have 1 wing built , and 1 to do , fuslage is ready , how would you do a war bird fuslage ?
@@Why-ct6kz It's a bit too big to cover in the comments section. Maybe I will write a post in the community section of my page. But for now the best advice in brief form: 1. Make the finish on the sheeting as perfect as you can get prior to putting any resin and glass on. Use your sandpaper to work down high spots, use putties, fillers and CA to fill gaps, holes and low spots. 2. glass the plane in small sections. I limit the amount of resin I am working with to 2 oz. It's actually quite a bit, but a good amount to limit your. 3. Research your paints. I'm assuming you are going to paint it. Make sure your primer, and finish coats are compatible. Fill weave with primer and sand finished primer with a rough up grit so the top coat will stick better. Hope this helps.
@@Capgains7777 Thankyou Dan , will take your advice on this .
How did youtrim the fibre glass to avoid hard ridge edges?
Its kind of un avoidable. I try to get it as smooth as I can while its wet, and then sand very lightly on the edges after
It has cured to feather it. You have to be gentle not to cut into the sheeting with the sandpaper. Finer grit 220 or 340.
@@Capgains7777 yeh it's that cutting into the sheeting I was hoping someone had come up with a neat trick to make it easy and less risk of sanding groves in the sheeting lol. Glad you have the same difficulty as we do lol. Like the tip on the plastic card spreader. Definitely be using that one in future.
Hello Dan. Well I am complaining!!! You did not finish this fiberglass cloth covering technique. I looked over the other videos you got and did not find the continuation. So, that was not good!!! :(
Ugg you got me and I did say that. I'm sorry Gonzalo. I'll try to do better.
@@Capgains7777 Dan forgive me. I think I express myself not appropriately, I believe I was jocking. But Dan, it is true. You showed me to place the fiberglass on solid surface, where there is balsa lamination. What about fiberglassing a wing where there are just ribs and no solid surface? That is what I want to make sure how to do. When is ready, let me know!!
@@gonzalo1134 I can't say that I have ever fiberglassed where there is no sheeting. If the wing is primarily open bays with ribs or maybe cap strips on top of ribs then fiberglassing is probably not a good idea. On an open bay wing strength comes from the wing joiner and braces and the covering. If you were to fiberglass over an open area it would be very messy and the glass would droop possibly harden with a warp in the surface. Usually if the areas are open without sheeting the surface is cloth covered. If you are worried about strength there are some strong coverings available. Solartex comes to mind. 21st Century cloth if you can find it. Hope this helps you. Good luck.
@@Capgains7777 Well then, Dan I am most thankful because I have almost no experience. Most likely I will have to use mostly solartex or 21 st century. Again very many thanks!!!!
Dan ONE MORE QUESTION. Are cloth covering also subjected to make it tight with he heating tool? I imagine that also have to be heated to make it straight and tight.
your cat want to say something
Sieht schlecht aus schlechtes Harz
hi dan, new subscriber and fellow builder from iowa. im 59 yrs old and have been building balsa planes since the late 70s and flying for 8 yrs. find you down to earth and easy to watch. build my planes about like you. thanks and happy new year.