Great video clip iv been building 40 years from plans and used this method in the passed and it's nice to SHOW OTHER MODELERS HOW TO ACHIEVE THIS. THE REALY SAD THING IS THESES DAYS THERE ARE FLYERS OUT THERE. ( BUT) SO VERY FEW BUILDERS and realy thay don't get the enjoyment of building and flying that WE real modelers get. I find that you turn up at the club feild and you see 2 or 3 R.T.F.'s on the flight line. But as a real modeler building from plans YOU ARE THE ONLY ONE WITH A UNIQUE MODEL. Thank you fellow modeler. REALY INJOY YOUR CLIP..
Thanks Dan. Love the videos. I have been away from the hobby for many years and getting ready to start again by scratch building. For the wind mount, I think I would have used blind nuts in the fuselage. Keep up the great videos
Happy Valentines Day Kitty ! Dan I really enjoy your channel, I've been watching all of them from the start. I feel like am part of the build. Also many thanks for taking the time out of your day to day life to share with us the love of your hobby as well as the love you have for Miss Kitty She loves you; t its wonderful to see that kind of trust she has with you. Take care and I look forward to the next instalment. It takes time to shoot edit and upload them; I know we all appreciate that. You take care and glad that you're feeling better.
Dan this series has been a great source of information for me. I particularly like the informal way the episodes are delivered, it helps me in terms of understanding the content. Looking forward to the next videos and to building this aircraft. Stay Safe. thanks again from the UK
Greetings across the pond. It amazes me the reach of this hobby and being able to share via RUclips around the world. Thanks for sounding off. I will keep them coming. I have changed up the content so that I can get more of my projects on the bench to show you, and it has brought a flood of tips for building that apply to the individual projects. Its fun to share what I have learned, and hearing the many tips that others are commenting back.... Its awesome. Thanks for the kind words.
Dan, These videos on Ryan's Rebel got me back to a hobby that In haven't touched in over 50 years. I have been trailing your build and a really appreciate your candor on plan weakness and build errors. Having said that, I've made plenty of my own. Having never tried anything of this size, I found creating a straight fuselage a greater challenge than anticipated. Finally broke down and built a hard jig (see Dennis Tyson's RC World) to create a straight fuselage (attempt #3). I also have deviated from the plan toward many of your suggestions. Keep up the good work and I'll let you know if my version gets off the ground.
Great to hear James... And good to have you back. 50 years... Holy cow so much has changed in the technology of the hobby. I find no reason to not deviate from the plans on the non rocket science stuff. There are definite reasons for design, but who's to say you might have an even better idea? Only one way to find out. Its the spirit of building. So happy to hear your interest got sparked.
Hi Dan, great channel. One tipp. I would use Phillipshead instead of a slotted head because sooner or later you will slide into the wing and scratch the surface :-)
Just make a philips head screw driver hot with torch and press it to center of nylon bolt. It will melt exactly to right shape. Then you can use both screwdrivers as you want 😁
Very nice! glad you are back and well Dan. I enjoy your channel. I’m with you on the wing mount, those bolts look a littler squirrely. I think you have a good idea to recess them a little and reinforce with a little plywood plate. Dowel mounting like you said is probably preferable, but the plan is the plan. One thing that I would worry a little about is that big wing and those nylon bolts appear to have to hold a large load. How well do you think the wood threads will hold up over time? Would T-bolts on the underside of the mounting block be helpful? Great series! Thanks for sharing your experience.
2 1/4in nail would be the right size to mark the holes NO carbon paper needed ... added bonus it will also set the center point for the tapped holes to be drilled ...
Hi Edward, yes I use a few drops of thin CA in the threads that I cut into the maple blocks to strengthen them up. It might be overkill as maple is a strong wood, and nylon bolts shouldn’t strip them but it adds a little peace of mind. It seems necessary to run the tap through them after the CA is cured to clean them up a little as the CA will kind of gum them up a little. But after they are re cut they are really smooth.
We all mount wings differently and all have our ways of fixing them after. I drill my first tap hole leave the drill in the wing, use a second drill for the second hole so nothing moves. Clearance drill the wing with out hitting the mounting block, tap the block with the wing in place put in wing bolt then the second one. Lol my repair method I have many!
Hi Dan Thanks for the videos and passing on the knowledge. I have gotten a lot of information from them as I'm about to start building my first one soon 😁.. when is the next video coming????? From Queensland Australia keep up the good work 👍👍
Hi Liam... Thanks for the good words. Glad to hear you are planning a scratchbuild. Next video... Coming soon, I am getting ready to retire, or semi retire in the next month and that will give me the time I want to spend with my planes... Best made plans.
Hi Gene. The Rebel is over at my friend Mark's shop getting covered. I will be heading over one day this week he is going to cover a some parts he hasn't got to yet, and I will video and ask questions. I wanted him to cover it for me because he is really good with film coverings. But yes there will be video coming on the covering.
Believe it or not, but I do have a 5mm carbon rod just laying around lol It was an extra to a foam plane used for ballast in the back (came with a steel one was well for 4s batteries that I ended up using)
Good luck on those front 2 "bolts" near the leading edge using NYLON threads going into WOOD threads. Should have used your better judgement and gone with dual dowels up front "bolts" in the trailing edge. Option: (1) get longer NYLON "bolts". (2) Move the 2 mounting bolts more forward towards the leading edge by .25-.31" again straight up and down so your going thru a thinner section of the "chord" and move your fuselage mounting block more forward to match. Use a hobby knife and remove that area under the bolt head you were talking about to have the bolts sit flat. You'll now get more thread engagement closer to 1.5 to 2 thread diameters. I still think you're playing with fire that you could pull the forward bolt threads on the front bolts. Go with the dowels on the leading edge with bolts in the rear solution. Just my opinion.
I'm with you on the 4 bolt system, and I would have gone to the dual dowels, however I had already glued the top engine box panel in place with the triangle stock, and if I am going to use dowels, I like drilling them through the former from the front making the shot into the wing perfectly aligned. However, there is nothing inside the wing like a plywood plate to support the dowel other than that balsa block until you get to to the wing brace. I don't like the four bolt system, but Im sure it will work. My flying buddy's Rebel has hundreds of flights on it and never a problem. My only bitch on the setup is getting those bolts to thread when assembling it. Its hard to get them to line up, searching and searching for the hole in the plate. I hit the holes in the plates with a flange bit, and that made it considerably better like a funnel that lines it into the hole. As for the nylon and wood combination... Once again, looking at my friends plane of the same design with many flights, no issues. In fact we looked through all of our planes and found we have used this combination for years, many in large heavy planes, and never once have we had a failure of the wood threads, or a 1/4 x 20 bolt failing. I've had crashes where the nylon bolt actually ripped the block out of the fuse and was still attached firmly to the wing. Once again, I think we tend to really over engineer our building techniques. When it comes to hold downs, I tend to fear the likeliness of vibration loosening bolts in a metal to metal configuration like bolt in insert. I have landed and seen the bolt sticking up a quarter inch from the wing top, backed out.. then you have to start thinking about locktite, saftey wire... More junk to worry about. I did cut the skin and carve down to make the heads of the bolts flush with the balsa block. I plan to soak some CA into the block to keep it from compressing. I do like the cleaness of the dowel lock setup, call me lazy to not go back and retro it in. But this setup will work fine. I have enough proof to satisfy me.
@@Capgains7777 Sorry to not get back sooner. Glad to hear there's "proof" to the design being used without any issues. I wasn't to thrilled with the numbers of thread engagement given my engineering background and I know you weren't either. I'd hate to see pulled threads in the wood given I think that's the weak point. I don't know where I read it was using thin CA on wood threads to enhance the strength of the wood fibers and still retains the thread integrity for the nylon bolt. You probably already know this but that may also provide a little more insurance. All good, thanks for the build and the knowledge.
Dan, I would really like to hear your thoughts on hinges. I know there are plastic and nylon strap and even pivot point. I would like a few minutes spent on this topic. Thanks
Great seeing you again. Congratulations on your natural immunization, glad it went easy on you. Totally agree with Don Crowe about metal inserts, wood threads for plastic screws ingeneering deserves GULAG sentence. What have you put on top of your balsa sheets in the center of the wings? Is it a coat of glue?
I have tried both of those over the years. Im not so concerned about the cushoning of the saddle as I am about filling the gap. For some reason the cutout of the saddle on the fuse and the wing almost never match up perfectly. I will make a slurry of slow set epoxy, mixed with micro balloons. Ends up like a thick paste. Coat the saddle edge, place 2 sheets of wax paper on that, then install the wing with the bolts. Flip the fuse over with the wing side down to let the slurm drip onto the wing, and let it cure. After ward, pop the wing off and use a sanding block to remove all of the excess making it flush to the sides of the fuse. It makes a permanent gap fill that supports the wing perfectly... An old scale builder taught me this. Maybe I should make a video on it?
I think she showed up when I was talking about how I had to redo the hold down block. Her perch is a little low so sometimes all you can see is her tail moving around when there is a fuselage on the bench.
Glad you recovered and also happy to see kitty made a cameo. Another option that I've used for bolt holes is to use 1/4-20 E-Z Lok brass inserts . Long term, they won't wear like wood, even maple. smile.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_X0D5F26RSCY5JGZ4KVSZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I love those inserts, use them a lot on firewalls. Good suggestion. I will harden these threads in the wood with thin CA and then run the tap through again. Nylon bolts are strong but gental on threads. I have never had maple threads fail on me treated like this.
I understand this was 4 months ago but I would recommend not trying to shorten up your vids too much. I think the majority of people watching this stuff are watching to learn and in many cases trying to get a peek or demonstration of a very specific step or process. When people are trying to shorten their videos too much they end up removing crucial parts that might not seem important to them but to a novice might be what they were trying to see.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video clip iv been building 40 years from plans and used this method in the passed and it's nice to SHOW OTHER MODELERS HOW TO ACHIEVE THIS.
THE REALY SAD THING IS THESES DAYS THERE ARE FLYERS OUT THERE. ( BUT) SO VERY FEW BUILDERS and realy thay don't get the enjoyment of building and flying that WE real modelers get. I find that you turn up at the club feild and you see 2 or 3 R.T.F.'s on the flight line. But as a real modeler building from plans YOU ARE THE ONLY ONE WITH A UNIQUE MODEL.
Thank you fellow modeler.
REALY INJOY YOUR CLIP..
Thanks Dan. Love the videos. I have been away from the hobby for many years and getting ready to start again by scratch building. For the wind mount, I think I would have used blind nuts in the fuselage. Keep up the great videos
Happy Valentines Day Kitty !
Dan I really enjoy your channel, I've been watching all of them from the start. I feel like am part of the build.
Also many thanks for taking the time out of your day to day life to share with us the love of your hobby as well as the love you have for Miss Kitty She loves you; t its wonderful to see that kind of trust she has with you. Take care and I look forward to the next instalment. It takes time to shoot edit and upload them; I know we all appreciate that. You take care and glad that you're feeling better.
Nice to see you again. And to see your cat is just as needy as before.
Great to see you back in the shop and health wise back on the mend. Looking forward to the maiden.
Dan this series has been a great source of information for me. I particularly like the informal way the episodes are delivered, it helps me in terms of understanding the content. Looking forward to the next videos and to building this aircraft. Stay Safe. thanks again from the UK
Greetings across the pond. It amazes me the reach of this hobby and being able to share via RUclips around the world. Thanks for sounding off. I will keep them coming. I have changed up the content so that I can get more of my projects on the bench to show you, and it has brought a flood of tips for building that apply to the individual projects. Its fun to share what I have learned, and hearing the many tips that others are commenting back.... Its awesome. Thanks for the kind words.
Great Job Dan!
Looking forward to seeing control linkage and servo installation. Hoping to learn a few tips!
Looking forward to ep26!
Thanks Dan, great to see you!
Hi Dan stumbled across your channel last love it its great ! Best Mark UK
Dan, These videos on Ryan's Rebel got me back to a hobby that In haven't touched in over 50 years. I have been trailing your build and a really appreciate your candor on plan weakness and build errors. Having said that, I've made plenty of my own. Having never tried anything of this size, I found creating a straight fuselage a greater challenge than anticipated. Finally broke down and built a hard jig (see Dennis Tyson's RC World) to create a straight fuselage (attempt #3). I also have deviated from the plan toward many of your suggestions. Keep up the good work and I'll let you know if my version gets off the ground.
Great to hear James... And good to have you back. 50 years... Holy cow so much has changed in the technology of the hobby. I find no reason to not deviate from the plans on the non rocket science stuff. There are definite reasons for design, but who's to say you might have an even better idea? Only one way to find out. Its the spirit of building. So happy to hear your interest got sparked.
Hi Dan, great channel. One tipp. I would use Phillipshead instead of a slotted head because sooner or later you will slide into the wing and scratch the surface :-)
That would rock...i have never seen phillips headed nylon bolts though. I could take the dremel or hack saw and add a slot though.
@@Capgains7777 Here in Europe they are available but your idea isn't so bad ;-)
@@Capgains7777 I can find it at Amazon here. Should be available in US as well.
Just make a philips head screw driver hot with torch and press it to center of nylon bolt. It will melt exactly to right shape. Then you can use both screwdrivers as you want 😁
@@tuomassyrjaniemi That is a great idea :-)
Artista
Very nice! glad you are back and well Dan. I enjoy your channel. I’m with you on the wing mount, those bolts look a littler squirrely. I think you have a good idea to recess them a little and reinforce with a little plywood plate. Dowel mounting like you said is probably preferable, but the plan is the plan. One thing that I would worry a little about is that big wing and those nylon bolts appear to have to hold a large load. How well do you think the wood threads will hold up over time? Would T-bolts on the underside of the mounting block be helpful?
Great series! Thanks for sharing your experience.
Hello Dan
Did you drop off the earth , waiting to see completion of the Rebal
Hope your well
2 1/4in nail would be the right size to mark the holes NO carbon paper needed ... added bonus it will also set the center point for the tapped holes to be drilled ...
I hate using the microphone but what I’m talking about is the fact that I put the Thin ca in threads to stiffen them up
Hi Edward, yes I use a few drops of thin CA in the threads that I cut into the maple blocks to strengthen them up. It might be overkill as maple is a strong wood, and nylon bolts shouldn’t strip them but it adds a little peace of mind. It seems necessary to run the tap through them after the CA is cured to clean them up a little as the CA will kind of gum them up a little. But after they are re cut they are really smooth.
If you do a lot of tapping with the 1/4 - 20 . Buy a number 7 drill bit . That's the proper tap drill for 1/4 - 20 , just a suggestion
Thank you
We all mount wings differently and all have our ways of fixing them after. I drill my first tap hole leave the drill in the wing, use a second drill for the second hole so nothing moves. Clearance drill the wing with out hitting the mounting block, tap the block with the wing in place put in wing bolt then the second one. Lol my repair method I have many!
That's a great idea!!!!
@@Capgains7777 Here in England we have a old saying. Their is more than on way to skin a ............
.
Hi Dan
Thanks for the videos and passing on the knowledge. I have gotten a lot of information from them as I'm about to start building my first one soon 😁.. when is the next video coming?????
From Queensland Australia keep up the good work 👍👍
Hi Liam... Thanks for the good words. Glad to hear you are planning a scratchbuild. Next video... Coming soon, I am getting ready to retire, or semi retire in the next month and that will give me the time I want to spend with my planes... Best made plans.
Are there free plans on this plane
Dan I have always wanna cut my threads and I know they’re gonna fit good and I’m ready to go with it always take just a month and see you
Hi, do you have any vid coverage of covering the plane?
Hi Gene. The Rebel is over at my friend Mark's shop getting covered. I will be heading over one day this week he is going to cover a some parts he hasn't got to yet, and I will video and ask questions. I wanted him to cover it for me because he is really good with film coverings. But yes there will be video coming on the covering.
Believe it or not, but I do have a 5mm carbon rod just laying around lol It was an extra to a foam plane used for ballast in the back (came with a steel one was well for 4s batteries that I ended up using)
Good luck on those front 2 "bolts" near the leading edge using NYLON threads going into WOOD threads. Should have used your better judgement and gone with dual dowels up front "bolts" in the trailing edge. Option: (1) get longer NYLON "bolts". (2) Move the 2 mounting bolts more forward towards the leading edge by .25-.31" again straight up and down so your going thru a thinner section of the "chord" and move your fuselage mounting block more forward to match. Use a hobby knife and remove that area under the bolt head you were talking about to have the bolts sit flat. You'll now get more thread engagement closer to 1.5 to 2 thread diameters. I still think you're playing with fire that you could pull the forward bolt threads on the front bolts. Go with the dowels on the leading edge with bolts in the rear solution. Just my opinion.
I'm with you on the 4 bolt system, and I would have gone to the dual dowels, however I had already glued the top engine box panel in place with the triangle stock, and if I am going to use dowels, I like drilling them through the former from the front making the shot into the wing perfectly aligned. However, there is nothing inside the wing like a plywood plate to support the dowel other than that balsa block until you get to to the wing brace. I don't like the four bolt system, but Im sure it will work. My flying buddy's Rebel has hundreds of flights on it and never a problem. My only bitch on the setup is getting those bolts to thread when assembling it. Its hard to get them to line up, searching and searching for the hole in the plate. I hit the holes in the plates with a flange bit, and that made it considerably better like a funnel that lines it into the hole. As for the nylon and wood combination... Once again, looking at my friends plane of the same design with many flights, no issues. In fact we looked through all of our planes and found we have used this combination for years, many in large heavy planes, and never once have we had a failure of the wood threads, or a 1/4 x 20 bolt failing. I've had crashes where the nylon bolt actually ripped the block out of the fuse and was still attached firmly to the wing. Once again, I think we tend to really over engineer our building techniques. When it comes to hold downs, I tend to fear the likeliness of vibration loosening bolts in a metal to metal configuration like bolt in insert. I have landed and seen the bolt sticking up a quarter inch from the wing top, backed out.. then you have to start thinking about locktite, saftey wire... More junk to worry about. I did cut the skin and carve down to make the heads of the bolts flush with the balsa block. I plan to soak some CA into the block to keep it from compressing.
I do like the cleaness of the dowel lock setup, call me lazy to not go back and retro it in. But this setup will work fine. I have enough proof to satisfy me.
@@Capgains7777 Sorry to not get back sooner. Glad to hear there's "proof" to the design being used without any issues. I wasn't to thrilled with the numbers of thread engagement given my engineering background and I know you weren't either. I'd hate to see pulled threads in the wood given I think that's the weak point. I don't know where I read it was using thin CA on wood threads to enhance the strength of the wood fibers and still retains the thread integrity for the nylon bolt. You probably already know this but that may also provide a little more insurance. All good, thanks for the build and the knowledge.
Dan, I would really like to hear your thoughts on hinges. I know there are plastic and nylon strap and even pivot point. I would like a few minutes spent on this topic. Thanks
Hey Tom, I'll do it. That's a great idea. I have my favorites and avoid at all costs for sure.
Great seeing you again. Congratulations on your natural immunization, glad it went easy on you. Totally agree with Don Crowe about metal inserts, wood threads for plastic screws ingeneering deserves GULAG sentence.
What have you put on top of your balsa sheets in the center of the wings? Is it a coat of glue?
Yes, the designer has a strip of 1/2 oz fiberglass down the center joint. Thats the epoxy.
Glad you're back at it! Do you add any silicon or cushion to the wing saddle?
I have tried both of those over the years. Im not so concerned about the cushoning of the saddle as I am about filling the gap. For some reason the cutout of the saddle on the fuse and the wing almost never match up perfectly. I will make a slurry of slow set epoxy, mixed with micro balloons. Ends up like a thick paste. Coat the saddle edge, place 2 sheets of wax paper on that, then install the wing with the bolts. Flip the fuse over with the wing side down to let the slurm drip onto the wing, and let it cure. After ward, pop the wing off and use a sanding block to remove all of the excess making it flush to the sides of the fuse. It makes a permanent gap fill that supports the wing perfectly... An old scale builder taught me this. Maybe I should make a video on it?
Nice job Dan but make sure you look after yourself
Thank you so much... Thanks for your kind words. Doing well, in the mend.
Chiko.. slowly getting there (Y) but wait were is your cat........
I think she showed up when I was talking about how I had to redo the hold down block. Her perch is a little low so sometimes all you can see is her tail moving around when there is a fuselage on the bench.
Glad you recovered and also happy to see kitty made a cameo. Another option that I've used for bolt holes is to use 1/4-20 E-Z Lok brass inserts . Long term, they won't wear like wood, even maple.
smile.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_X0D5F26RSCY5JGZ4KVSZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I love those inserts, use them a lot on firewalls. Good suggestion. I will harden these threads in the wood with thin CA and then run the tap through again. Nylon bolts are strong but gental on threads. I have never had maple threads fail on me treated like this.
@@Capgains7777 I agree .
damn nice makeing airplane sell on amazon people well buy it on the summer people well injoy and fly at park kind cool
I understand this was 4 months ago but I would recommend not trying to shorten up your vids too much. I think the majority of people watching this stuff are watching to learn and in many cases trying to get a peek or demonstration of a very specific step or process. When people are trying to shorten their videos too much they end up removing crucial parts that might not seem important to them but to a novice might be what they were trying to see.
Why does he sound like Saul Goodman?
Great series. Can't believe Carol Burnette ratted him out in the end.