Thank you Dan for sharing this helpful video, finally someone shows how to do this. I am about to try my first attempt at putting wing servos in a Mini Telemaster.
Yep I agree with M C in the comments. It’s even becoming more difficult to find a brick and mortar store to get supplies. It was a lot easier back then. I build smaller planes, nothing over .35 and any antique free flight I can find, and I like finding these channels and seeing others creativity 👍
Great video clip for the beginner on servo mounting in the wing. But as you all get more experienced there are better ways . As a builder and designer for 40 years to rc modeling. BUT NICE TO SEE REAL BUILDING AS OPPOSED TO R.T.F.
Hi Dan. I’m enjoying your build. I have a question... Can you discuss when you use wood glue, epoxy, thick or thin CA on different applications on the build? In other words for the various glue types, when are each used over the others? Thanks, JC
I have been wondering the same thing... Thing is, I've been building and flying for the better part of 30 years and have never used nor have I seen wood glue used so extensively? What are you reasons or is it a personal preference?
I don’t think I understand the question. The wire is inside the wing? You can cut a small hole in the wing where it needs to exit out to connect to the receiver. Usually the hole will need to be cut in a hidden area of the wing such as between sides where the wing saddles to the plane.
Old builders trick ... to fist your wires through the wing get a nice length if that beaded pull chain for ceiling fans. Tie a length of string to it and feed the chain from either end and with a little giggle here and there the chain will feed through the wing. Tie to a servo lead and pull it on through. That said I like the paper tube idea also.. and no chaff.
I have plans for a AvantiF3a.which I am starting this wekend. It takes a 60 classglow engine.I have an OS55 which should do as it is more modern. I really want to fit an electric. How about a vid on the alterations , sizing & fitting, acess hatch etc. I expect others might want to do something like that also. Some might want to do the reverse. IE electric to glow.
I have a project coming up, converting a Cermark Pitts ARF that once had a YS 120 on it to an electric of equal power. It will run off 6s 5000ish pack, and the challenge is going to be building a hatch and platform to get that big honking battery in and out near the CG. Still thinking about the parameters of that.
30 min videos are good. I prefer a little longer myself. I like to use model rocket bodies for servo wire tubes. They add a little weight but are more stout than paper.
Hey Dan, we are building this plane, where is the best place to buy the magnets and how many should we get? Love your videos and your assistant! Having trouble finding balsa from Sig Mfg, either on back order or like the triangle pieces they don’t carry them. Any suggestions?
Hi Annie!!! I found magnets like the ones I have amassed over the years here. amzn.to/2Y93QL7 50 is a good start, but 100 gives you the ability to space them closer which can make a stronger hold on parts while glue dries. More is better. Balsa is a bit difficult right now, it is both in high demand, and production strains because of Covid are creating issues. National Balsa is a source I have used quite a bit, and several of my friends use Balsa USA. Both provide a good product. Hope you guys get to building soon.
Hi Dan and fellow Channel Viewers. I also have a question. Ive downloaded the plans and article Dan linked in an earlier video for this Model Aircraft but am struggling with an issue i have with them. This is my first attempt at building a model aircraft and i'm currently only examining the plans and magazine article. In the article it describes building the wing and says to glue or too join the 12x48" spars to form 6x96" spars which hold the ribs apart. My problem is that the plans do not accurately represent the information provided in the article. In the PDF on page 2 off 2 there is a 'part' 26" long.Its the undercarriage. This is the longest 'specified' length on this page although we know the spars are now 96" long. So i imported the PDF into a graphics package and saved/converted/exported them to DXF format so that I could edit the new DXF file in a CAD Package ! I then went about SCALING the file so that the 'beam' mentioned previously represents 26" at a 1:1 scale on the screen. When done accurately this means that the other measurements match those given in the PDF. Sheets are 1/8th thick or 3/32th's while the spars, trailing edges and leading edges are 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" etc as specified ! But when i measure the wing dimensions while the spar's are the 'right' width and breadth they are not the right length. Also the distance between ribs is not uniform. The outer gap is an exact 4" but as you move inwards to the center of the wing the gap between ribs fluctuates ? The other issue i have at this point is how too glue the two 48" lengths to form a 96" length. End too end seems a weak join to me so do you do a rabbit joint or shoulder joint or some taper joint to provide extra strength ? Please bear in mind i am a total beginner and don't know the terminology or have any practical experience building Model Aircraft. I have machined Bulkheads for the fuselage for Boeing 747 and other commercial aircraft but I've never built one so please provide as much detail and be as descriptive as you can in your reply's so that i can better understand the issues. I may off-course be completely overthinking things as i have a wont to do so. Am i being 'tooo accurate' ? and adding extra 'complexity in tolerances where its not needed ?
Okay. Let’s break this down a bit. First off, the finished wing span is just under 80 inches total not 96. It sounds like you scale is way out of wonk. The bays are pretty uniform close to 4 inches between ribs. I believe the unmarked mystery beam is the rolled up paper tube that goes inside the hole of the ribs used for routing the servo wires to the wing mount servo bay after the wing is covered. If you are looking at the plans right side up, the left side of the wing represents the wing with all sheeting installed. So the ribs and under structure such as the spars are shown as dashed lines meaning they are under the sheeting. The right wing panel is exposed without sheeting. So you can see the ribs exposed without sheeting or cap strips. If you look on that panel, there are two plywood braces on either side of the main spars. Its that big rectangle to the lower left side on that sheet the wing is on. Those striped lines mark where those will glue onto the spars and half of that brace passes into the left panel on the spars. Once again under the sheeting is dashed lines. That brace is substantial and will make the center joint very strong. The smaller spars are not meant to increase the center joint strength but will help strengthen the span in conjunction with the sheeting. When I built the rebel I built it one wing panel at a time then joined them because my building surface is not 80 inches long. The spars will all line up if you are joining two wing halves together later you don’t need to end butt the spars prior to installing. The big key for you is to get those plans to the right scale. In the lower right corner of the sheet in the title box is a scale. 1 inch is 1 inch. The line boxes are 1/2 inch so one black and one white box on that scale should be one inch and your plan is proper size.
Hello John. There was a time for me when radios were 4 or 6 channels analog and limited. So I used the Y connectors a lot. Especially the one that had the reversible channel for when you needed the opposite aileron to deflect the other way. But when the Futaba Super 7 came out, programmable radios linking functions etc. It all became so easy. Most of my early planes had one servo to control the ailerons. But with the ability to mix channels why not give them a servo for every surface? About the only place I use the Y connectors now are occasionally for flaps. I like using smaller 6 channel receivers with my setups and one out put for 2 surfaces that are doing the same thing at the same time takes up less channels. So yes each aileron will have its own channel. I’m thinking I might program in Flaperon to mix in flap function but I don’t know if the Rebel really needs flaps.
That would work on a big thick wing. In this case I was actually looking to see if a model rocket body tube might work but at the time I didn’t have one in the parts drawer. One thing that is nice about rolling paper up, is that you can unroll the tube once it is in position for a perfect fit whereas I think a set size tube would have to be a little loose in the cut holes just to get in. Gluing it would also be a gap fill which means more glue.
I agree... I probably have poked myself in the past. When I am pushing it through, I try to have the most of my finger on the opposite side of the rail where the other hole is or will be. I also am not pushing hard and letting the bit to the work. Very conciouse of that bit coming through.
Hi Michael. I believe I bought those pins 10 years ago from a place that is no longer in business... Which happens a lot in this hobby. However an old friend recently pointed me to these. www.balsacabin.co.uk/product/modelling-pins/ From a place in the UK. They look the same and in a bunch of colors. I have never ordered from them myself. Good luck. There is a word for when you find something wonderful in this hobby... Its Scarfology... As in if you see something that you really like, scarf it up before it dissapears and becomes Inobtanium. (Which is not on the periodic table BTW)
I can't remember the manufacturer, I took them off of a plane that a friend gave me and he always used top line stuff, that I can never throw away unless of course it got busted up in a crash. I'll see if I can find you some clues on brand etc.
Make a sq box with a soft base so you can sit it up and have a nice end to your wing, no need to thank me, I know, it's a curse sometimes being this brainy, anything else you need any help with I,m just across the pond, ask for the special one and someone will direct you to my area, as i.m well known in as a great sage,
This channel is so awesome. I love building balsa planes. I wish it was still as popular as when I first started flying.
The paper Tube for the Aileron servo wiring is brilliant. I never paid attention to that detail before
Thank you Dan for sharing this helpful video, finally someone shows how to do this. I am about to try my first attempt at putting wing servos in a Mini Telemaster.
Just a tip on gluing to keep parts from sliding. If you sprinkle a little salt between bigger joints, it'll keep parts from sliding around.
Thank you, Dan. I'm finding a lot of your tips helpful with a build of my own now. I appreciate the information.
Yep I agree with M C in the comments. It’s even becoming more difficult to find a brick and mortar store to get supplies. It was a lot easier back then. I build smaller planes, nothing over .35 and any antique free flight I can find, and I like finding these channels and seeing others creativity 👍
Oh my god that’s a big plane I got my prints made today can’t wait to get as far as you are
Great video clip for the beginner on servo mounting in the wing. But as you all get more experienced there are better ways . As a builder and designer for 40 years to rc modeling. BUT NICE TO SEE REAL BUILDING AS OPPOSED TO R.T.F.
Hi Dan. I’m enjoying your build. I have a question... Can you discuss when you use wood glue, epoxy, thick or thin CA on different applications on the build? In other words for the various glue types, when are each used over the others? Thanks, JC
I have been wondering the same thing... Thing is, I've been building and flying for the better part of 30 years and have never used nor have I seen wood glue used so extensively? What are you reasons or is it a personal preference?
love your work im just getting started
What's the best way to cut the hole for the wires for a wing that is already built up that only had a single servo maounted in the middle of the wing?
I don’t think I understand the question. The wire is inside the wing? You can cut a small hole in the wing where it needs to exit out to connect to the receiver. Usually the hole will need to be cut in a hidden area of the wing such as between sides where the wing saddles to the plane.
Old builders trick ... to fist your wires through the wing get a nice length if that beaded pull chain for ceiling fans. Tie a length of string to it and feed the chain from either end and with a little giggle here and there the chain will feed through the wing. Tie to a servo lead and pull it on through. That said I like the paper tube idea also.. and no chaff.
I don't like the rolled up paper tube... I like your idea better. I'm going to use that way from now on.
I have plans for a AvantiF3a.which I am starting this wekend. It takes a 60 classglow engine.I have an OS55 which should do as it is more modern. I really want to fit an electric. How about a vid on the alterations , sizing & fitting, acess hatch etc. I expect others might want to do something like that also. Some might want to do the reverse. IE electric to glow.
I have a project coming up, converting a Cermark Pitts ARF that once had a YS 120 on it to an electric of equal power. It will run off 6s 5000ish pack, and the challenge is going to be building a hatch and platform to get that big honking battery in and out near the CG. Still thinking about the parameters of that.
How come the servos are mounted on the top of the wing? I know I'm missing something!
30 min videos are good. I prefer a little longer myself. I like to use model rocket bodies for servo wire tubes. They add a little weight but are more stout than paper.
Hey Dan, we are building this plane, where is the best place to buy the magnets and how many should we get? Love your videos and your assistant! Having trouble finding balsa from Sig Mfg, either on back order or like the triangle pieces they don’t carry them. Any suggestions?
Hi Annie!!! I found magnets like the ones I have amassed over the years here. amzn.to/2Y93QL7 50 is a good start, but 100 gives you the ability to space them closer which can make a stronger hold on parts while glue dries. More is better. Balsa is a bit difficult right now, it is both in high demand, and production strains because of Covid are creating issues. National Balsa is a source I have used quite a bit, and several of my friends use Balsa USA. Both provide a good product. Hope you guys get to building soon.
im starting a build of a b17 125 in wingspan got any advise
Hi Dan and fellow Channel Viewers. I also have a question. Ive downloaded the plans and article Dan linked in an earlier video for this Model Aircraft but am struggling with an issue i have with them. This is my first attempt at building a model aircraft and i'm currently only examining the plans and magazine article. In the article it describes building the wing and says to glue or too join the 12x48" spars to form 6x96" spars which hold the ribs apart. My problem is that the plans do not accurately represent the information provided in the article. In the PDF on page 2 off 2 there is a 'part' 26" long.Its the undercarriage. This is the longest 'specified' length on this page although we know the spars are now 96" long. So i imported the PDF into a graphics package and saved/converted/exported them to DXF format so that I could edit the new DXF file in a CAD Package !
I then went about SCALING the file so that the 'beam' mentioned previously represents 26" at a 1:1 scale on the screen. When done accurately this means that the other measurements match those given in the PDF. Sheets are 1/8th thick or 3/32th's while the spars, trailing edges and leading edges are 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" etc as specified ! But when i measure the wing dimensions while the spar's are the 'right' width and breadth they are not the right length. Also the distance between ribs is not uniform. The outer gap is an exact 4" but as you move inwards to the center of the wing the gap between ribs fluctuates ?
The other issue i have at this point is how too glue the two 48" lengths to form a 96" length. End too end seems a weak join to me so do you do a rabbit joint or shoulder joint or some taper joint to provide extra strength ? Please bear in mind i am a total beginner and don't know the terminology or have any practical experience building Model Aircraft. I have machined Bulkheads for the fuselage for Boeing 747 and other commercial aircraft but I've never built one so please provide as much detail and be as descriptive as you can in your reply's so that i can better understand the issues. I may off-course be completely overthinking things as i have a wont to do so. Am i being 'tooo accurate' ? and adding extra 'complexity in tolerances where its not needed ?
Okay. Let’s break this down a bit. First off, the finished wing span is just under 80 inches total not 96. It sounds like you scale is way out of wonk. The bays are pretty uniform close to 4 inches between ribs. I believe the unmarked mystery beam is the rolled up paper tube that goes inside the hole of the ribs used for routing the servo wires to the wing mount servo bay after the wing is covered.
If you are looking at the plans right side up, the left side of the wing represents the wing with all sheeting installed. So the ribs and under structure such as the spars are shown as dashed lines meaning they are under the sheeting. The right wing panel is exposed without sheeting. So you can see the ribs exposed without sheeting or cap strips. If you look on that panel, there are two plywood braces on either side of the main spars. Its that big rectangle to the lower left side on that sheet the wing is on. Those striped lines mark where those will glue onto the spars and half of that brace passes into the left panel on the spars. Once again under the sheeting is dashed lines. That brace is substantial and will make the center joint very strong. The smaller spars are not meant to increase the center joint strength but will help strengthen the span in conjunction with the sheeting. When I built the rebel I built it one wing panel at a time then joined them because my building surface is not 80 inches long. The spars will all line up if you are joining two wing halves together later you don’t need to end butt the spars prior to installing.
The big key for you is to get those plans to the right scale. In the lower right corner of the sheet in the title box is a scale. 1 inch is 1 inch. The line boxes are 1/2 inch so one black and one white box on that scale should be one inch and your plan is proper size.
So Dan… with two ailerons like that - do they plug into separate channels in the receiver? Or do you use a Y splitter and run them off one channel…?
Hello John. There was a time for me when radios were 4 or 6 channels analog and limited. So I used the Y connectors a lot. Especially the one that had the reversible channel for when you needed the opposite aileron to deflect the other way. But when the Futaba Super 7 came out, programmable radios linking functions etc. It all became so easy. Most of my early planes had one servo to control the ailerons. But with the ability to mix channels why not give them a servo for every surface? About the only place I use the Y connectors now are occasionally for flaps. I like using smaller 6 channel receivers with my setups and one out put for 2 surfaces that are doing the same thing at the same time takes up less channels. So yes each aileron will have its own channel. I’m thinking I might program in Flaperon to mix in flap function but I don’t know if the Rebel really needs flaps.
would it be easer to use thin wall pvc pipe than paper
It would be pretty cool to find something like that as long as its nice and light. Its a great idea.
You can just use a tube from your Christmas wrapping paper or paper tube from a package wrapping paper for your tube.
That would work on a big thick wing. In this case I was actually looking to see if a model rocket body tube might work but at the time I didn’t have one in the parts drawer. One thing that is nice about rolling paper up, is that you can unroll the tube once it is in position for a perfect fit whereas I think a set size tube would have to be a little loose in the cut holes just to get in. Gluing it would also be a gap fill which means more glue.
My drumstick is shaped differently. And it has hot sauce on it..
They way you hold the plywood when drilling holes have you ever drilled into your finger? looks like accident ready to happen
I agree... I probably have poked myself in the past. When I am pushing it through, I try to have the most of my finger on the opposite side of the rail where the other hole is or will be. I also am not pushing hard and letting the bit to the work. Very conciouse of that bit coming through.
Hi Dan,
Where did you get your building pins?
Thank you!!
Hi Michael. I believe I bought those pins 10 years ago from a place that is no longer in business... Which happens a lot in this hobby. However an old friend recently pointed me to these. www.balsacabin.co.uk/product/modelling-pins/
From a place in the UK. They look the same and in a bunch of colors. I have never ordered from them myself. Good luck. There is a word for when you find something wonderful in this hobby... Its Scarfology... As in if you see something that you really like, scarf it up before it dissapears and becomes Inobtanium. (Which is not on the periodic table BTW)
What gear do you use to make your aileron adjustable rods?
I can't remember the manufacturer, I took them off of a plane that a friend gave me and he always used top line stuff, that I can never throw away unless of course it got busted up in a crash. I'll see if I can find you some clues on brand etc.
Dan, is that a 2 56 rod and thread or is it 4 40?
thanks
Steve
4-40 all the way!!!!
Hallo how is everithing. With all that big C
Stuff
Here in the belgium we have a lockdown
We have some problemen with thuis
I’ll subscribe. I’m a builder.
Hey dan can you email me a copy of those plans I’m having trouble downloading the good set
bennietipton@gmail.com
On the way
Make a sq box with a soft base so you can sit it up and have a nice end to your wing, no need to thank me, I know, it's a curse sometimes being this brainy, anything else you need any help with I,m just across the pond, ask for the special one and someone will direct you to my area, as i.m well known in as a great sage,