Nah man, I didn't know a video from 7 years ago will solve all mi problems at the moment, im building a plane with a 3d program and thats exactly the info i need it. Its even better when you see that this great guy is still doing videos, cheers from spain sir 🤞
These are awesome. There is a real lack of information for those that are moving through to an intermediate level that are wanting to start tinkering. Keep up the good work
Although, sometimes a non-proportional control surface throw is desired, especially for a flying wing. Aileron differential is an example. It can be a desired trait for models that have an undesirable amount of adverse yaw when turning. A flying wing, designed to fly upright and without a rudder, may need some aileron differential to make the turns more coordinated. Aileron differential can also be a desired trait for gliders to reduce unwanted amounts of trim drag when turning in a thermal. Heck, aileron differential can also help prevent tip stalls in a low speed turn :-) On the other hand, you have to set up aileron differential correctly. If you reverse it by accident, you can make you model fly even worse and the chances of a tip stall go up. But yes, for my standard models like 3D planes and sporty planes, straight and parallel linkages are very predictable for inverted flight and make your control surface behave as you'd expect. There's nothing more annoying when your wing's control surface throws don't match, haha.
Now you've explained this so eloquently, you'll have to do a section on ratio and resolution. Appreciate what you do for the hobby, your videos make it so much easier for me to explain tech & tricks to people. Thanks Bruce.
Holy shit. I've been fighting with an EPP model, building it without a manual. In EPO models I just installed the control horns where the producer told me to and never payed attention. In this one I had to choose the place myself and the control surfaces worked like crap. Thanks to Sir Bruce and this video I know now where's the problem!
This was in my first batch of beginner's mistakes. The elders called it mechanical differential - I fixed it first thing that day and never made it again. Thank you for covering the basics.
Thanks again Bruce. Yesterday I was working in a new chinese wing, and had this very problem. Now I understand it all... You are not aware (or maybe yes?) of how much you are doing for our hobby. Cheers from the antipodes (Madrid)
Thank you! I built a combat wing, first go on a kit, no guides. Now I know why it liked to dive so much, and didn’t want to pull up. Back to the work table. Cheers Bruce!
Has nothing to do with mechanical advantage really, it has to do more with the throw of the control surface. So say a beginner can have the linkages set for less thow, for less "immediate reaction" making it easier to learn. If your servos are having to work too hard there is either binding, or your servo is not strong enough for the application, ie needing a high torque servo. This is why matching the correct servo to the plane and flying type is so important, some planes will have a reccomend servo as well so you dont have to guess.
@@110101719 there is actually an advantage. If you use the correct servo hole the servo will work in whole of its span. Let's say, you've used your furthest servo hole and the throws are too wide. So wide that you need to reduce them to 40% in your Tx - it means that the servo is working only in 40% of its swing, which makes it much more strained (arm ratio) and less precise. Also it could happen that you have a cheap/old tx in which you can't modify throws, selecting correct servo arm hole is critical here
Just got back to flying again and doing searches for all the new things that have evolved in the hobby. Started with the Futaba FP-T6FG 72Mhz, my last radio was the 10CAG (one of the first programable radios). I just bought the Futaba T16SZ. Wow how things have changed. No matter what these new radios can do....they cannot correct bad geometry. (Ok, maybe they can, but how many hours to program out the error when all you have to do is mount your hardware correctly) This video is a must for anyone getting into the hobby. Fantastic visual using the latest computer aided CGI technology. Cheers Mate! Oh ya...what IS wrong with you people.... thumbs down? Really?
Excellent Chewtorial !! The correct setup here gives you stable Control. One thing..... For a Pro Tip, on Ailerons ONLY. Having MORE up travel than down travel, actually allows for easier bank turning. This is because the air pressure is Higher UNDER the Wing than ABOVE it. For the less experienced, this particular *wonky" setup, works better for controlling Roll, without Rolling Over too easily! Just a thought. However, the one thing you pointed out that is VITAL, and should always be applied, is keeping the control horn Rod holes, in line with the pivot point! 👍👍
Good videos!! This is the difference between good fliers and lousy planes!! This is also the source of so many flutter problems!! I loved the graphics!! Keep the awesome work mate!! Saludos.
Your CGI is amazing!!!! Loved it, as usual! P.S. I have to assume you've run into this, but lots of guys like to do this ( @ 6:35 ) to make a mechanically actuated differential on the ailerons. Do you still take issue with it? I personally just want to use the Differential on my DX18.
yes more technical stuff!! more advance stuff!! yes yes yes!! this is why i follow you.. been watching a lot of joshua bardwell videos and that got me thinking.. when am i going to get another great lesson from mr RCmodelreviews.. gotta love the accent as well
I wish I had seen this video a long time ago. I learned the hard way. You might also talk about the little holes that go up and down the control horn and what happens when you connect at the top of the control horn vs the bottom. Big differences there as well. But a great video just the same. anyone who flies fixed wing will need to know this.
It would be brilliant if you showed this in three different height holes. Some horns have adjustment holes on both ends... It would be awesome to show the geometry differences in this fashion! Thoughts?
Also, regarding torque- the center will give you the most torque(rotational force) for both up and down. you could customize the push rod to customize up/down needs on your aircraft.
What were the workshops you were naming at 1:10? What’s the names again, I couldn’t understand what you said..... damper workshops? And whitter workshops?
thank you for this video Bruce, it helped me to work out why my RC helicopter was getting more pitch in one direction! I definitely got my patreon monies worth this month! keep em coming buddy!!!
this is great Bruce, many of the new pilots really don't have a clue, nothing like having to set up a ccpm helicopter to learn and master control linkages! :)
Thats exactly how differential ailerons work, except you would need the horn on the underside of the control surface so you have more upward throw than downward throw to prevent adverse yaw and drag on the climbing wing in a turn. For rudder and elevator, you want it to be as you state.
This video was also helpful when using servos in robot design. Linkages with non-standard arrangements almost always do not work efficiently or as expected. This usually causes gimbal locking or unexpected cranking, causing servo overload, damage to the linkage base, and unnecessary debugging. thank you.
Hi Bruce. Good video. Topic not mentioned and just as important, is the additional rotational load (torque) required on the servo in moving the control surfaces when the positioning of the control horns and servo arms are not optimized to the geometry of the hinge system. Similarly, the additional resultant unnecessary strains on the control horn joints to the moving surfaces.
Nice one Bruce. I've always wondered what difference the angle makes. The thing is i've found that when you center a servo before installing it into a model when you fit the servo arm they are never straight! They angle one way or the other just moving it to the next tooth on the arm. Which is annoying. Think i will go back and redo some of my push rods to get the servo arms more centered. Cheers.
In fact, those problems could be used to make differential ailerons and have less sliding of the airplane. Everything is sin and cos :) Great explanation!
amazing that skills that have been forgotten as computer radios and pnf models have become more popular, and clubs have declined found my reversing you harnesses ( with tuning pots!) the other day. I can remember when they where the new hot technology. I also remember showing up to the field with a futaba 7c on fm and people having a fit wanting to look at it...
Love all your videos. This newbie is learning a lot. What about servos on flaps? They move in only one direction, of course, and they spend most of their time at one end of the motion. I assume it's OK to set up the servo so that the horn is at one extreme, then it moves toward straight up in the middle position, then then other extreme in the full flaps down position. Is that right?
"Only move one direction" - Your flaps went down and never came back up? They're stuck? Flaps move two directions; up to be parallel to the wing for decreased camber, and down to increase camber. "set up the servo so that the horn is at one extreme, then it moves toward straight up in the middle position, then then other extreme in the full flaps down position. Is that right?" Yes, that's right. Servo in the middle when the control surface is in the middle.
If you get a plane with servo horns in the wrong place, like in your example, could you not offset the servo arm position so that the non-linear servo arm throw will contract the weird horn movement? I admit that it would be difficult to get the geometry right, but would you ever consider doing that for a model that would take to much damage removing the stock horns?
Hi Bruce excellent explanation, can you do a video on the correct method of antenna placement on a model i.e. should it be at 45deg. or 90 deg or horizontal on a twin antenna rx or single antenna rx. Were is the best place or position to have it. Pete
It is probably worth making a follow-up to this for more advanced uses of offset geometry. Quite often we use these offset effects for good! For example, a full house glider, you want (in your words) "Snot loads of down" flaps for Crow Brakes (often more than 80 degrees) and a little bit of up, for full span aileron mixing, or camber/reflex. And the best way to do this is to have the servo arm offset as you do at 6:02. Using EPA and Subtrim on the radio to achieve the same effect tends to end up wasting servo torque and resolution as you can't use the full movements.
great video. I had this problem when connecting a servo to the FPV camera in a 210mm 5" quad. very tight space and I had to try out a lot of lengths and combinations before it worked.
how would you rigg a runcam eagle for instance? the holes where the camera is mounted at not allined in any obvious way with the holes in the backplate of the camera.
you should do a video on aileron differential on planes that don't have working rudders or simple bank and yank planes so they can still get some yaw effect when turning, I never seen a video on that. I mean I use it on some of my FPV planes like the nano skyhunter. and some bank and yank warbirds I own. would be an awesome video. cheers Farmer
What about when the horn is lined up with the hinge line, the servo arm is straight, but the linkage isn't flat (say the linkage is in the furthest hole from the servo pivot, while the control surface side of the linkage is in the hole closest to the pivot) would that just change the throws evenly?
A Bruce this is a great video! I've been fling wings for a while and have a pesky Reflex38 that isn't quite right. Studying what you describe and going over my setup has revealed some build flaws thanks so much!
I was hoping you would have included results when connecting the push rod along various points of the servo and control horns also. There seems to be confusion there also.
thank you , I have an obstacle between my servo and my rudder , so the servo must be moved at another place, and i am stucked at finding the right place ! is it possible ?
Before computer radios I always used twice as much up aileron as down in my high lift wing airplanes (rigging arms and rods). This eliminated yaw due to the difference in the amount of pressure between the top and bottom of the wing. Some full sized aircraft, such as Cessna, used the same technique, although to a lesser amount of differential. With computer radios this differential can be done electronically (with differential or aileron/rudder inter-connect).
Can you do a part 2 showing the what happens when you use the multiple holes in the control arms/horns? I have had instructions tell me to use the top hole on control arm and the bottom hole on the servo arm and I really don't know why they can't all be set up like in this video. Also why are there so many holes to choose from in the first place? I also have issues where I get binding in my linkage. When I install everything at a 90 degree angle the linkage will go out of whack when the elevon is moved up or down. This causes the control horn to bend to one side or the other. I have watched other peoples videos on linkage and they all just cover a small amount of the setup but usually fall short or just confuse me even more.
Demon Prince if, for instance, you don't have a computer controlled transmitter and you don't have control over your servo's end points, the only option you then have is to use different holes on the servos and the horns. That's why the manufacturers make multiple holes on both.
To maximize torque and precision (good) always use the inner most possible hole in the servo horn. In most applications this will mean using an outer hole in the control arm to get appropriate throws. In others it will mean drilling an hole even further in on the servo arm. For precision models where you want each couple of clicks on the trim to show on the surface, must also use non flexing rods and minimize the different diameters of the rod and hole. Or look up 'pull spring' controls for a easy solution for cheaper servos that have a lot of 'slop'.
WOW I totally just friggin learned something! Good thing I didn't install any servo horns on my brand new scratch build foamies yet! Thank god for the slow boat from China on my parts in this case! THANK YOU
Great video, I never paid enough attention to this geometry and I suffered the consequences. Thanks Bruce!. BTW those 3D graphics are awesome, they looked pretty much like real cardboard horns and servos!!!
But isn't having the control horn above the hinge reducing the leverage of the servo on the control surfaces? How do I maximise the leverage of the control surface while still maintaining correct geometry? Please reply
I think to get equal throws do this: Draw a line from the hinge to the linkage on the control surface Now draw a line from the servo spindle to the servo linkage These lines need to be parallel You say vertical but relative to what?
I got a carbon cub s2 1.3m. I'm not sure why but when I turn everything on the ailerons go pretty far down and they're damn near level with each other when it does it. Not sure if I did something in the Start up out of the box or not. Please help if you have any info sir. Great vids btw.
Great video Bruce. This day many foamy plane use only 1 servo for the aileron. I used to have one and I notice that the angle of the aileron up and down is not the same. Show us how to correctly use the correct servo arm, so the up and down angle will be the same.
Nah man, I didn't know a video from 7 years ago will solve all mi problems at the moment, im building a plane with a 3d program and thats exactly the info i need it. Its even better when you see that this great guy is still doing videos, cheers from spain sir 🤞
These are awesome. There is a real lack of information for those that are moving through to an intermediate level that are wanting to start tinkering. Keep up the good work
9 dislikes??? what is there not to like about this. its a fantastic video demostrating the correct control linkage set up. good job! 👍
James haters?
they mad cuz they had poor linkage geometry
10 dislikes a year its probably within normal self-dislike rate
Maybe because they have a single round hole in the back of their boat and the wire bends there.
Now there's zero dislikes, thanks to RUclips's genius opinion canceling technology!
Although, sometimes a non-proportional control surface throw is desired, especially for a flying wing. Aileron differential is an example. It can be a desired trait for models that have an undesirable amount of adverse yaw when turning. A flying wing, designed to fly upright and without a rudder, may need some aileron differential to make the turns more coordinated. Aileron differential can also be a desired trait for gliders to reduce unwanted amounts of trim drag when turning in a thermal. Heck, aileron differential can also help prevent tip stalls in a low speed turn :-)
On the other hand, you have to set up aileron differential correctly. If you reverse it by accident, you can make you model fly even worse and the chances of a tip stall go up.
But yes, for my standard models like 3D planes and sporty planes, straight and parallel linkages are very predictable for inverted flight and make your control surface behave as you'd expect. There's nothing more annoying when your wing's control surface throws don't match, haha.
Thanks Bruce. Im in the middle of designing a 3D printed plane and i never even thought about this. Now i can make sure its right.
such a nice way in showing how the linkage geometry works - thanks for this very informative video.
Now you've explained this so eloquently, you'll have to do a section on ratio and resolution. Appreciate what you do for the hobby, your videos make it so much easier for me to explain tech & tricks to people. Thanks Bruce.
Holy shit.
I've been fighting with an EPP model, building it without a manual. In EPO models I just installed the control horns where the producer told me to and never payed attention. In this one I had to choose the place myself and the control surfaces worked like crap. Thanks to Sir Bruce and this video I know now where's the problem!
Best explanation I have seen good job.
This makes it so much easier to understand being in the physical world over CGI. Thank you.
This was in my first batch of beginner's mistakes. The elders called it mechanical differential - I fixed it first thing that day and never made it again. Thank you for covering the basics.
Thanks again Bruce.
Yesterday I was working in a new chinese wing, and had this very problem. Now I understand it all...
You are not aware (or maybe yes?) of how much you are doing for our hobby.
Cheers from the antipodes (Madrid)
Thank you! I built a combat wing, first go on a kit, no guides. Now I know why it liked to dive so much, and didn’t want to pull up. Back to the work table. Cheers Bruce!
amazing nobody else on YT does these such important basics, THANK YOU!
This is why I love this man, great vid Bruce.
Would you explain the mechanical advantage when using different combinations of hole selection in the control horns.
For a four bar linkage like this, mech advantage varies as a function of the input angle for a given linkage length
Has nothing to do with mechanical advantage really, it has to do more with the throw of the control surface. So say a beginner can have the linkages set for less thow, for less "immediate reaction" making it easier to learn. If your servos are having to work too hard there is either binding, or your servo is not strong enough for the application, ie needing a high torque servo. This is why matching the correct servo to the plane and flying type is so important, some planes will have a reccomend servo as well so you dont have to guess.
@@110101719 there is actually an advantage. If you use the correct servo hole the servo will work in whole of its span. Let's say, you've used your furthest servo hole and the throws are too wide. So wide that you need to reduce them to 40% in your Tx - it means that the servo is working only in 40% of its swing, which makes it much more strained (arm ratio) and less precise. Also it could happen that you have a cheap/old tx in which you can't modify throws, selecting correct servo arm hole is critical here
Bruce, thanks for yet another very good educational video. Cheers from Portugal
Your videos are always a pleasure to watch lol not only are you very good at explaining things, but also an excellent sense of humor
Just got back to flying again and doing searches for all the new things that have evolved in the hobby. Started with the Futaba FP-T6FG 72Mhz, my last radio was the 10CAG (one of the first programable radios). I just bought the Futaba T16SZ. Wow how things have changed. No matter what these new radios can do....they cannot correct bad geometry. (Ok, maybe they can, but how many hours to program out the error when all you have to do is mount your hardware correctly) This video is a must for anyone getting into the hobby. Fantastic visual using the latest computer aided CGI technology. Cheers Mate! Oh ya...what IS wrong with you people.... thumbs down? Really?
Excellent Chewtorial !! The correct setup here gives you stable Control.
One thing..... For a Pro Tip, on Ailerons ONLY. Having MORE up travel than down travel, actually allows for easier bank turning.
This is because the air pressure is Higher UNDER the Wing than ABOVE it. For the less experienced, this particular *wonky" setup, works better for controlling Roll, without Rolling Over too easily! Just a thought.
However, the one thing you pointed out that is VITAL, and should always be applied, is keeping the control horn Rod holes, in line with the pivot point! 👍👍
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you as always. I appreciate you, sir.
This is really useful, was struggling for ages trying to get my rudder worling
Good videos!! This is the difference between good fliers and lousy planes!!
This is also the source of so many flutter problems!!
I loved the graphics!!
Keep the awesome work mate!!
Saludos.
I've been doing it wrong for 5 years. So embarrassed. Very effective graphics, thank you Bruce.
Your CGI is amazing!!!! Loved it, as usual!
P.S. I have to assume you've run into this, but lots of guys like to do this ( @ 6:35 ) to make a mechanically actuated differential on the ailerons. Do you still take issue with it? I personally just want to use the Differential on my DX18.
love these basics videos!
yes more technical stuff!! more advance stuff!! yes yes yes!! this is why i follow you.. been watching a lot of joshua bardwell videos and that got me thinking.. when am i going to get another great lesson from mr RCmodelreviews.. gotta love the accent as well
Thank you so much for this demonstration
The cgi is ferkin great!
I wish I had seen this video a long time ago. I learned the hard way. You might also talk about the little holes that go up and down the control horn and what happens when you connect at the top of the control horn vs the bottom. Big differences there as well. But a great video just the same. anyone who flies fixed wing will need to know this.
It would be brilliant if you showed this in three different height holes. Some horns have adjustment holes on both ends... It would be awesome to show the geometry differences in this fashion! Thoughts?
Yes would also have liked to see that Bruce👍🛩️
Good to be reminded of the basics, thanks keep up the great work.
Also, regarding torque- the center will give you the most torque(rotational force) for both up and down. you could customize the push rod to customize up/down needs on your aircraft.
What were the workshops you were naming at 1:10? What’s the names again, I couldn’t understand what you said..... damper workshops? And whitter workshops?
Great video... Really makes it clear.. And the inner drafter in me loves it.
Very helpful! I was looking for this exact advice and it only took me a few hours and 3 months to finally find it.
I hear this method of design and demonstration is called CAD (Cardboard Aided Design). Great video! Great job explaining!
This is what I look for on a beginner's plane. It will tell me whether the student pay attention to small details.
thank you for this video Bruce, it helped me to work out why my RC helicopter was getting more pitch in one direction! I definitely got my patreon monies worth this month! keep em coming buddy!!!
Just what I needed to watch. Thanks!
Nice work Bruce! You're a talented teacher
this is great Bruce, many of the new pilots really don't have a clue, nothing like having to set up a ccpm helicopter to learn and master control linkages! :)
Fantastic Video Bruce.
Keep up the great work.
Thats exactly how differential ailerons work, except you would need the horn on the underside of the control surface so you have more upward throw than downward throw to prevent adverse yaw and drag on the climbing wing in a turn.
For rudder and elevator, you want it to be as you state.
Thanks, glad that I stumbled on this just now. Nothing that I don't understand, but something that I haven't kept in mind.... 😅
This video was also helpful when using servos in robot design. Linkages with non-standard arrangements almost always do not work efficiently or as expected. This usually causes gimbal locking or unexpected cranking, causing servo overload, damage to the linkage base, and unnecessary debugging. thank you.
Thank you very much, this video is a really big help for my project!
Hi Bruce. Good video. Topic not mentioned and just as important, is the additional rotational load (torque) required on the servo in moving the control surfaces when the positioning of the control horns and servo arms are not optimized to the geometry of the hinge system. Similarly, the additional resultant unnecessary strains on the control horn joints to the moving surfaces.
Great advice, awesome CGI graphics! 😁
Great video. Really helpful.
Same can be used for rc cars as well. Thank you sir for this video, it's very educational and easy to understand.
Nice one Bruce. I've always wondered what difference the angle makes. The thing is i've found that when you center a servo before installing it into a model when you fit the servo arm they are never straight! They angle one way or the other just moving it to the next tooth on the arm. Which is annoying. Think i will go back and redo some of my push rods to get the servo arms more centered. Cheers.
Just what I needed. Thank you.
Bruce , what about using different holes on the servo arm or the control horn , which is better or worse ?
Good basic vid , Graham
Thanks for that very informative video!
Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge! This is GREAT.
In fact, those problems could be used to make differential ailerons and have less sliding of the airplane. Everything is sin and cos :) Great explanation!
this opened me a new world
Very good presentation.
amazing that skills that have been forgotten as computer radios and pnf models have become more popular, and clubs have declined
found my reversing you harnesses ( with tuning pots!) the other day. I can remember when they where the new hot technology. I also remember showing up to the field with a futaba 7c on fm and people having a fit wanting to look at it...
was this linkage geometry a way to install "expo" back before the computer radio days?
Love all your videos. This newbie is learning a lot. What about servos on flaps? They move in only one direction, of course, and they spend most of their time at one end of the motion. I assume it's OK to set up the servo so that the horn is at one extreme, then it moves toward straight up in the middle position, then then other extreme in the full flaps down position. Is that right?
"Only move one direction" - Your flaps went down and never came back up? They're stuck? Flaps move two directions; up to be parallel to the wing for decreased camber, and down to increase camber.
"set up the servo so that the horn is at one extreme, then it moves toward straight up in the middle position, then then other extreme in the full flaps down position. Is that right?"
Yes, that's right. Servo in the middle when the control surface is in the middle.
If you get a plane with servo horns in the wrong place, like in your example, could you not offset the servo arm position so that the non-linear servo arm throw will contract the weird horn movement? I admit that it would be difficult to get the geometry right, but would you ever consider doing that for a model that would take to much damage removing the stock horns?
Hi Bruce excellent explanation, can you do a video on the correct method of antenna placement on a model i.e. should it be at 45deg. or 90 deg or horizontal on a twin antenna rx or single antenna rx. Were is the best place or position to have it.
Pete
Excellent tutorial!
And again...i keep on coming to this class
It is probably worth making a follow-up to this for more advanced uses of offset geometry. Quite often we use these offset effects for good! For example, a full house glider, you want (in your words) "Snot loads of down" flaps for Crow Brakes (often more than 80 degrees) and a little bit of up, for full span aileron mixing, or camber/reflex.
And the best way to do this is to have the servo arm offset as you do at 6:02. Using EPA and Subtrim on the radio to achieve the same effect tends to end up wasting servo torque and resolution as you can't use the full movements.
great video. I had this problem when connecting a servo to the FPV camera in a 210mm 5" quad. very tight space and I had to try out a lot of lengths and combinations before it worked.
how would you rigg a runcam eagle for instance? the holes where the camera is mounted at not allined in any obvious way with the holes in the backplate of the camera.
Can i compensate the throw of a pivot point being left of the hinge with trimming the servo horn's center position to the right?
What if you purposefully want a large servo change to become a small angle change, but with higher torque?
you should do a video on aileron differential on planes that don't have working rudders or simple bank and yank planes so they can still get some yaw effect when turning, I never seen a video on that. I mean I use it on some of my FPV planes like the nano skyhunter. and some bank and yank warbirds I own. would be an awesome video.
cheers
Farmer
Great explanation, Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. You helped me a lot with my builts !
Nice video Bruce..... Would also be nice for you to make us a video on how you set up your CG on the various wings that you fly
the technical videos are the best :)
What about when the horn is lined up with the hinge line, the servo arm is straight, but the linkage isn't flat (say the linkage is in the furthest hole from the servo pivot, while the control surface side of the linkage is in the hole closest to the pivot) would that just change the throws evenly?
A Bruce this is a great video! I've been fling wings for a while and have a pesky Reflex38 that isn't quite right. Studying what you describe and going over my setup has revealed some build flaws thanks so much!
Bummer I just finished building my first fixed yesterday this is the info I had the hardest time to find, until today
I was hoping you would have included results when connecting the push rod along various points of the servo and control horns also. There seems to be confusion there also.
2023r and still useful. Thanks :)
thank you , I have an obstacle between my servo and my rudder , so the servo must be moved at another place, and i am stucked at finding the right place ! is it possible ?
I have a single servo operating both ailerons is it posible to manually install offset into the ailerons. A diagrame would be much appreciated. Thanks
Before computer radios I always used twice as much up aileron as down in my high lift wing airplanes (rigging arms and rods). This eliminated yaw due to the difference in the amount of pressure between the top and bottom of the wing. Some full sized aircraft, such as Cessna, used the same technique, although to a lesser amount of differential. With computer radios this differential can be done electronically (with differential or aileron/rudder inter-connect).
This is a good control vid, cool stuff
What happens if the horn and the servo arm are not the same length?
The angle of hinge and pivot plays a critical role in movement and very imp. To the agility manuverablity of the aircraft.
Can you do a part 2 showing the what happens when you use the multiple holes in the control arms/horns? I have had instructions tell me to use the top hole on control arm and the bottom hole on the servo arm and I really don't know why they can't all be set up like in this video. Also why are there so many holes to choose from in the first place?
I also have issues where I get binding in my linkage. When I install everything at a 90 degree angle the linkage will go out of whack when the elevon is moved up or down. This causes the control horn to bend to one side or the other.
I have watched other peoples videos on linkage and they all just cover a small amount of the setup but usually fall short or just confuse me even more.
Demon Prince if, for instance, you don't have a computer controlled transmitter and you don't have control over your servo's end points, the only option you then have is to use different holes on the servos and the horns. That's why the manufacturers make multiple holes on both.
To maximize torque and precision (good) always use the inner most possible hole in the servo horn. In most applications this will mean using an outer hole in the control arm to get appropriate throws. In others it will mean drilling an hole even further in on the servo arm. For precision models where you want each couple of clicks on the trim to show on the surface, must also use non flexing rods and minimize the different diameters of the rod and hole. Or look up 'pull spring' controls for a easy solution for cheaper servos that have a lot of 'slop'.
This helped a lot. Thanks!
Where do you buy your T pins from Bruce?
That CAD is called BruceCAD.
WOW I totally just friggin learned something! Good thing I didn't install any servo horns on my brand new scratch build foamies yet! Thank god for the slow boat from China on my parts in this case! THANK YOU
Great video, I never paid enough attention to this geometry and I suffered the consequences. Thanks Bruce!. BTW those 3D graphics are awesome, they looked pretty much like real cardboard horns and servos!!!
Thanks for this! Now I have to go check and possibly tear off the linkages on all my scratch builds.
Good to know. I never thought of horn placement
Awesome Bruce, one for the impact of the different holes next time?
But isn't having the control horn above the hinge reducing the leverage of the servo on the control surfaces? How do I maximise the leverage of the control surface while still maintaining correct geometry? Please reply
I think to get equal throws do this:
Draw a line from the hinge to the linkage on the control surface
Now draw a line from the servo spindle to the servo linkage
These lines need to be parallel
You say vertical but relative to what?
How about a video on moving the linkage closer to the hinge point. Or just one side on how that effects the movement.
I got a carbon cub s2 1.3m. I'm not sure why but when I turn everything on the ailerons go pretty far down and they're damn near level with each other when it does it. Not sure if I did something in the Start up out of the box or not. Please help if you have any info sir. Great vids btw.
Great video. Next the effect/advantages/disadvantages of long/small servo arm on long/small horns, please
Great video Bruce. This day many foamy plane use only 1 servo for the aileron. I used to have one and I notice that the angle of the aileron up and down is not the same. Show us how to correctly use the correct servo arm, so the up and down angle will be the same.