By the way, Vincent Briggs recently made a video about making 18th century shirts, that should be worth checking out and maybe linking here for those interested. ETA: By machine. That's the important detail, for those who do have a sewing machine and don't have time.
im absolutely gutted after seeing my fancy fake leather jackets that i bought within the past 5 years just disintegrate in my closet because i didnt wear them very often because they were the "good clothes" you save for special occasions. meanwhile, this one genuine leather jacket that was a hand me down that i've had for 15 years is still going strong. leather is something you simply CANNOT cheap out on.
Most of my decent sized leather collection is older than I am, and I remember floppy disks 😂 and most was secondhand anyway. The number of times I would have had to replace each item if they were pleather would cause the environmental impact of using vegan alternatives to definitely outweigh the impact of using this byproduct of the animal industry. I fully understand why people want great vegan alternatives, but the current technology simply doesn't yet justify its use when durability is desired. One day perhaps it will get there, but in the meantime, leather it is.
When I was 19 and started as a carpenter's apprentice with my father, he gave me a leather belt that he had worn when he became a carpenter in his late teens. Last week, my nine-year-old son needed a belt for his carpenter pants, and I brought out my father's old belt. My father wore it in his pants for many years, until he became too round in the waist. I have had it in my work pants for 20 years and have also worn it at LARP events. Now we'll see how long my son will have it. A leather belt, three generations. And considering the condition of the belt today, it will easily survive to a fourth generation.
I just bought a pair of off-white leather granny boots someone wore in the ~70's; no idea what the brand or exact year they were made are. They're gorgeous and buttery and if you couldn't see how worn the bottoms of the soles were and if I hadn't had to use pliers to gently tighten the hooks for the top laces, you'd have no idea they weren't made yesterday. Gorgeous, comfortable shoes that, unlike my modern shoes, I don't even have to wear arch supports in. They're at least fifty years old! I wear them almost every day, and I get compliments from people from every generation for them. I plan to take good care of them so I can pass them down to my children.
Recently I encountered a trash heap in the neighbourhood. (Stuff set out for collection.) It seemed to come from the flat of an old man and included - a thick board, which I saved for a building project in our community garden, - two iffy pieces of fabric, which have since had a round in my washing machine on high temp and one of which has been turned into a gardening apron. The other might become a petticoat at some point. - an only slightly worn leather belt which will certainly last me for the next twenty years
Note about the name “genuine leather” - in the US in particular, the regulations and standards regarding this term “genuine leather” means it’s usually just leather scraps bound together with glue and put together into a shape, much like particleboard vs. real lumber. If looking for real, lovely, top quality, high durability leather - look for “full grain” or “top grain leather” instead of “genuine leather”. Love your videos!
Yes to this! I wish that more people looked into what quality of leather they are buying. The term "genuine leather" is excellent marketing to make lower quality leather sound better than it actually is or that it just means that is is real leather and not faux. And just like with fabrics, the price goes up when you buy better quality leather but it will last so much longer and it also looks better!
Used to be in the office furniture business…I learned the difference between ‘full grain’ & ‘top grain’ leathers. Full grain is superior. Top grain is basically the upper bit separated from the bottom part…it’s less $$$ than full grain, but not nearly as durable nor forgiving.
My excuse for continuing to wear pants when in years past I would be wearing shorts is that my heavier legs cause the shorts to gather and bunch. My *reason* is I don’t want to shave my legs to meet other people’s expectations!
suuuuper agree with your stance on genuine vs fake leathers. I grew up in an environment that had a LOT of First Nations influence, so using genuine animal materials was always something taken pretty seriously. The loss of one or two animals for the sake of saving hundreds or even thousands by keeping junk out of the environment is absolutely a worthy sacrifice. Not to mention, depending on where you source your leather, you can get very ethically-raised and ethically-slaughtered leather (among other animal materials!) from the right seller. Def not biased when I say getting Indigenous-made stuff is usually a pretty good option :) Stuff made from animal materials is SO durable, and considering any sort of cost-value ratio, you're getting a lifetime of use for a small premium worth maybe two or three units of synthetic-made goods. And I say all of this as a devout vegetarian. Respecting the animals you take from is the most humane thing you can do.
Absolutely agree. I grew up in a family that hunted and farmed a lot, and one of the earliest lessons I learned about that way of life is that the animals are everything. You don't hunt unnecessarily; you only hunt when the ecosystem can handle it and you need to eat, and you only take the animal you need. You don't slaughter livestock unnecessarily; you only slaughter if the death of the animal is directly going to feed someone and hopefully provide some good leather, fur, and bone. In either case, you do it quickly. In the case of both wild animals and livestock, you do it after the animal's had time to live a good life. Something that I think a lot of folks who are further from where animal supplies come from don't quite grasp is that the use of animal products isn't this black and white thing; the options aren't just factory farming or pure veganism. I was vegan for a few years, and noticed a lot of other vegans online acting like hunting or small farming was exactly equivalent to the cruelties in factory farming. In reality, every farmer I know worries over every animal in their care. Even my gruff old grandpa will spend a full day trying to get one injured cow to feel well and eat again. Every hunter I know is at heart a conservationist, and is deeply concerned with ethical animal consumption, with using the whole animal, and with ensuring the animal suffers as little as possible. There's a good medium ground here, which is discouraged in a capitalist structure that trends towards factory farming, but it is still here if you seek it out.
YES! This! Industrial cattle farms are awful, awful places; I would never want to go to one or work there or anything. I'm pretty sure the main reason most milk has to be pasteurized these days is because the conditions in the industrial farms are so terrible that the cattle have to be loaded up on crazy strong antibiotics, and there's all kinds of nastiness in the milk. I've grown up on raw goat's milk my whole life, and the reason it works is because our goats have room to roam and have their pen cleaned out daily. They're not sitting in their own filth, rather they're loved and cared for and spoiled their whole lives; *that* is the difference. @horseenthusiast1250 - I've grown up on an itty bitty little farm, where we raise goats and chickens and such. We've never killed an animal before its time (when we butcher chickens it's always because we don't have enough room for the chicks we're bringing in, and because the chickens we're slaughtering are the older ones who no longer lay eggs; same thing with our goats), and we *always* do it with gratitude in our hearts for the chance we've had to love and spoil the animal before turning it into supper.
Just a heads up, if you see items listed as made of "genuine leather", it's often not actually leather. Look for items that specify if it's cow leather or horsehide etc, or even which tannery it comes from. It's such a mess out there lol.
It's basically a marketing term. It's neither leather nor vegan. Unless you don't care about the lives of sea animals and birds that are killed by the petrol industry ...
I do wish she would clarify that "genuine leather" means chopped up leather thats been put back together. If you want real leather then you need to buy directly from artisans or search for "top grain" or "full grain" leather. Do not buy genuine leather. It will fall apart in a couple years.
hey so leather maker student here, and I would like to add that most leather skins(?) that we buy are from meat farms idk if you can say it like that like the cows or whatever the animal is, its main purpose is not the leather it's for its meat. so the tannery are just taking whats going to the trash essencially. it's just recycling in a sense thank you for talking about the "vegan leather" too! I've been trying to educate my family and friends about it and how it's only basically plastic and really not good for the environment
I came here to say this!! It's such an overlooked issue- how we just use the animal for it's "edible meat" and that's it. There is so much that can be used that would actually give this animal respect for its sacrifice. Including using what would have normally been thrown away, such as leather.
Learning about how linen absorbs and even diminishes bodily odours because of it's anti-bacterial quality made me look at the linen wearing medieval folk who are (still) often accused of being smelly, in a different way ;) I wore clothes like that all day, under a woollen dress, in summer, while cooking over a fire and at the end of the day still didn't stink as much as the folks near me with their modern clothes ;)
I wore a modern linen shirt (thrifted) for 24 hours recently and there was zero stank. I'm a sweaty person, and I didn't feel gross! Linen is the gods gift for skin and stinkyness.
@@NotYourNhaama Yes and then there you are at some event in your medieval dress and a sweaty person in a synthetic sort of nylon dress covered in chemicals to smell like the wild freshness of spring flowers tells you that medieval people stank ;)
Switched to wool sweaters last year when replacing old sweaters and, wow, what a difference. I can wear the lightweight ones in the early days of summer, don't have to wash them constantly, and they never smell bad.
As someone who spent summers somewhere burning up to 45-50 Celsius in Eastern Europe and now living in Thailand, I can certainly say that shorts and tank tops are not suitable for REALLY hot weather! You want to hide your skin from the sun and absorb all moisture in your clothes. People were not dumb back then as Bernadette often says ❤
Totally agree, a long lose falling skirt isolates and keeps your legs cool and dry where shorts and sun exposure not only burn them, but alao heat them up. Covering up cools!
I mean I wouldn't really agree with that. I live in a very humid climate. Humidity doesn't evaporate like in the dryer. There's actually a difference in how you dress. For instance, lighter clothes in color are better suited in humid climates, whereas darker colors are actually more suited in drier climates. This is because sweat is beneficial in drier climates. Whereas humid climates you just end up very sticky. This is why swamp coolers work really well in dry climates. Because they create humidity. If you live in a dry climate, it benefits to create humidity. So for instance, homes in parts of the Middle East actually have courtyards with pools or fountains or both because they want to create a humid environment to keep it cool. And that wouldn't be historically accurate for humid climates. Humid climates historically have less clothing not more. There's a reason why tropical environments if you ever notice they wear hardly nothing, In tribal societies. In a human climate, your best to wear something that can dry your sweat off quickly. Like wearing a cool wick material. But again they would not have had that available throughout most of human history, but that would be the best option, But that's why a lot of outdoor modern-day clothes have a cool wick and that works very well for humid climates. * Also, it depends on the material you're using, like I wouldn't recommend jean shorts. Use cotton and khakis. * From a person who lives in the USA deep South without air conditioning in the house or in a car. Cheers
yes! I live in central California and we reach 115+ Fahrenheit (46+ C) for months each year (and its a dry climate, which yes makes a difference). I have grown up wearing tank tops and it has caused so much problems. The older and more sun-sensitive I get (and the hotter the world around me gets), the more I switch to covered, especially by cottons or linens. And head covered, either by my babushkas or by hats!
Absolutely! When I was still working in field archaeology, I had colleagues that covered up completely in the summer, up to and including gloves in one case, and that was not only to save on sunscreen. It genuinely was easier to deal with the heat that way - and to this day, I´ll wear a cotton blouse above my shirts or tops, when I go out on a really hot and sunny day.
@@milliedragon4418 I live in the subtropics (humid as hell) and I have hyperhidrosis (excessive sweating) and your points are spot on. I doubt I'd survive in the tropics long enough to even venture out in a long sleeve!
Sometime around 2015 I stopped shaving my legs and nothing bad happened and then a few years ago I stopped shaving my pits and nothing bad happened and so like idk man. Like if you enjoy the feel of clean-shaven you do you, but if you're doing it because someone said you had to once and you're not feeling so jazzed about it... join the hairy legs club is all I'm saying
the other thing i’m surprised you didn’t mention cuz it was also in that clip at the end: hats and sunhats!!! it helps so much in blocking the sun from your face but also your shoulders and chest!
We should bring hat wear back, especially in the summer for the children, women; and some men. I know for a fact my boyfriend does not like wearing them because "my head feels off and itchy when I have something on it. I will never wear hats" he explained and I respect his decision. But sometimes wearing a hat, or non-wearers can have an umbrella to cover up from the sun's rays. I own sets of 12 different hats for summer and 12 winter hats. Also, my whole collection of hat pins, vintage blouse pins, and brooches are great to give it some colour, and bling. But after doing a poll amongst friends and outside circle, I know now not everyone enjoys wearing them. We should be okay with that. As long as they have sunscreen on or a summer umbrella. 🙂 👒❤🧡💙💚
I have a pet theory that it's why we seem to have so much more skin cancer now vs. in the past, even though we now have sunscreen. In the past people wore hats (and covered up more in general).
Absolutely agree to all of this comment thread!! I am 33 now and bought my first hat this year. I just LOVED the looks of it. I then wasn't brave enough to wear it for a couple of months, even though I really liked it on me. When I was travelling this year I took it with me and wore it where no one knew me. And since then, I have been wearing it basically all the time, also at home, now. It's just the best and it looks so cool AND it doesn't only block out the sun, but also the occasional rain shower :) I highly recommend getting a hat if you're sunburning easily like me!
It's worth noting that older, historical linen fabric was often a lot thicker and just different than modern. We associate linen with a light gauze that wrinkles easily, while older linen was compact and doesn't need ironing when hung to dry in the sun. Historical linen is a completely different experience, it keeps you FRESH like AC fresh for real, and it actually keeps you warm in the winter too. It's magical
The biggest problem with linen nowadays is that the fibres are cut shorter to make it possible to process on equipment made for cotton, which means that the threads are weaker and slubbier. I don’t doubt that this also explains why modern linen has a tendency to wrinkle so much.
@@ariadne0w1 It’s both a “we stopped growing those strains of flax” thing *and* a “we stopped processing the linen the way it was historically” thing, unfortunately.
@@dianacanzi313 Air drying is the default where I live, and there are definitely tricks that you can do to the wet clothes right before hanging them up to make them less wrinkly when they dry. And the linen I’m used to is “typical shirt-weight” fabric, and not so sheer that the embroidery on the shirts is disproportionately thick despite being whitework and therefore not too flat.
@@ragnkja I heard that centrifuguing linen "breaks" the fibres, which lets it wrinkle even more. When I wash my linen clothing, I use a soft program for sensitive clothing AND turn off the spinning of my Washington mashine. I then squeeze the water out by hand and let it air-dry hanging. I have a few pieces of clothing made out of linen, which last for years now and hardly ever wrinkle!
Yay! I was literally just saying yesterday I needed more cotton and linen and then waxed on about how smart people were from early 20th century and earlier that they wore those materials to stay cool. My kids "ugh...yes, WE KNOW."
I love how your kids are used to the ranting. But hopefully they'll make wise purchases when they get older because they'll hear your voice in their heads. 😊
@@suzannederringer1607 I know, right? I was so confused. 😅 There's nothing smart about it, there was NOTHING ELSE. Unless the commenter means how smart the people back then were to not wear wool and furs in the summer heat. 🤔
I fully agree about leather vs “vegan.” I hate the term vegan for fake leather products. As long as there is meat production we will have animal hides. Are the hides to be burned or tossed in a landfill? Better to use them to make useful, long-wearing and beautiful items that will biodegrade when they are finally no longer usable.
As a vegan I wouldn‘t mind stopping meat prduction. That would be no problem at all. 😂 Also, you don't really think that mass meat production and high quality expensive leather come from the same animal. 😅
If every part of the animals were actually used to the fullest I'd agree, but modern factory farming likes to keep one type or animal for exactly one type of thing. Dairy cows aren't the same as cows kept for meat, chickens are also either 'optimised' for laying eggs or for meat, and many parts that people used to eat are largely regarded as gross these days. I could imagine the same applying to leather. I live in Germany, and while there is a lot of marketing for locally produced food producs, and I know a lot of local farms (both animal and otherwise), I can't remember seeing 'local leather' anywhere. Local shoe makers, yes, but only referring to the design/sewing process. So either all the skins are shipped off to be tanned, or ground up for dog food or something, or indeed, tossed away. "Vegan" just means "without animal products", not necessarily "sustainable", just like it doesn't have to mean "healthy" ;) A lot of vegetables are sold wrapped in plastic, which imo is even worse than plastic shoes (I've had some that lasted many years and were repairable). Buuuut on paper, plastic wrapped vegetables are still vegan eh.
@@literaturegeek1570Can you find any examples of cows being raised only for their leather? Raising cow is expensive. They need a lot of food, or a lot of land for grass and some supplementary feed depending on the season and how the grass is doing. Leather is expensive, but not that expensive, a lot of the costs when you buy leather are paying for the processing and production. There wouldn't be enough money for the raw hides to be economical to sell if that's all you're selling. Most leather for sale is a byproduct of the meat industry. It wouldn't make sense to selectively breed cows just for leather when meat cows have perfectly good leather already. Beef cows and dairy cows are selectively breed to be different because the two things are mutually exclusive. For meat you want an animal that grows as fast as possible on whatever food or land you have available. For milk you want an animal which will produce as much milk as possible and stay healthy and productive for as many years as possible. After living for many years, the meat will be tough and worth much less to sell. Farmers would sell the meat if there were buyers. Most people in the English-speaking world wouldn't buy dairy meat when they can get young beef so cheaply, but the majority of beef eaten in the world is from former dairy cattle.
@@SomeoneBeginingWithI I find it endearing, to see you talk about land and grass and such things, when we talk about mass-produced animals. That is not the reality for most animals consumed. And dairy cows are not made for longevity either. As soon as their output decreases, they are killed. 😅 I am neither judging anyones use of leather, nor would I claim that animal free "leather" options are better, but the production of almost all leather is not cutesy, artisanal and natural but connected to lot's of suffering, shit working conditions and environmental destruction. And I think it is important to no be blind to that reality.
@@literaturegeek1570 I said "They need a lot of food, *or* a lot of land for grass". I'm aware that there are cows living indoors having food brought to them. They need a lot of food. That feed has a cost, which would not be re-cooped if the only thing you were selling was leather. It would cost more to buy the feed than you would get back in the leather. It would not be economically viable to raise cows only for leather, especially not if you're keeping them indoors. The cost of feed is too high for that. Leather is a byproduct of the meat industry. Dairy cows are killed once their output decreases. When their output decreases, they need to be replaced, which is expensive. The economic incentive for dairy cattle is to have a high output for as many years as possible, which is multiple years. That's very different from beef cattle who are killed when they've grown big enough to sell which may take less than a year.
Key note about leather sustainability: cows aren't raised and killed to produce leather. Leather hides are sold to tanneries directly from meat production, so it's better for the hides to be used than the alternative. And yes, leather will last a very long time compared to plastic
I’ve never really had money for expensive fabric clothes but chose quite well made fast fashion and wore it to death (I’m 20 and I still have clothes from when I was 12 because I’m small) but lately I’ve been researching a lot and as awareness to fast fashion seems to grow and sustainable clothes are a bit more available, I got myself a pair of cotton trousers and I must say these difference is insane. I did not expect to feel this much better and cooler wearing them and even my fast fashion clothes were mostly made of like 40%cotton and 60% plastic as summers in Central Europe are a hell lately. So yeah. Fabric choice is VERY important.
I'm with you, 100%. If I'm purchasing fast fashion, I analyze the content and how it's made. I try to make the best choice that fits my wallet at the moment. One day, I'll get things more from slow fashion, small creators but for now, I'll just try to be smart and wear the things I already have. 😊 And hey, polyester fabric is so warm, it's decent for wintertime if it's already in your closet. 🤷♀
Second hand is a lofe saver!!! I got a lot of very good linen pieces through patience and thrifting! Now Idea how old they where when I bought them, but thwy are still holding up no probems 8 years in my pos3ssion and still counting!
I'm young and broke as well and I have found some fabulous items at thrift stores! And you can also find cotton and linen sheets, curtains and table cloths at thrift stores for a few dollars that you can easily make into skirts or basic tops. ❤
Since I concously pay attention to the materials in my clothes and wear natural fibers, I'm not able to wear plastic fibers anymore. My skin just itch like hell. That's why I don't like when creators on any soc media platform do a shein haul or whatever haul and they are waxing poetic how good the clothes are. Like honey, have you every tried anything but polyester? I'm from Eastern-Europe, and the summers are hell indeed in the past 5 years or so. I want back my childhood summers :D
I haven't shaved my legs in 12 years, and I don't miss it! Not a single person has said anything to my face about it. The only person to mention it to my husband was his brother. He was so bothered by it he said "when are you going to make your wife shave her legs" to which my husband replied " good luck MAKING her do anything, but you're welcome to go mention it to her" . He never did 😂
Honestly if you and your husband both don't mind, no one should. I tried shaving as a teenager but didn't like cutting myself and having sandpaper legs after just a day or two. There must be a good reason for us as grown-ups to have hair on our legs, if attempts to get rid of it are so annoying. This may sound controversial, or even a bit extreme, but I prefer that my husband finds me attractive when I look like a woman, rather than a 12-year-old girl.
Honestly shaving just murdered my legs. My legs are covered in scars which means my skin is not smooth. You ever tried shaving not-smooth scared skin? Not fun. Just set my legs on fire. No thanks. Other people's beauty standards can get shoved up where the sun don't shine!
For me it's the opposite. If I don't shave daily, I feel really unconfortable. That's one of the main reasons I stopped waxing, because you have to wait between waxes, so the hair is long enough. I hated that. And I don't care if it's winter, and nobody is going to see me, if there's no medical reason to not shave, I would do it. Of course, using a good razor is key. Bad razors means irritations, cuts. Never ever use those cheap, disposible ones, that come like a dozen in the bag. Those are instruments of torture.
I can hear the smirk in hubby's voice. He's ready for a popcorn required event. LOL I stopped shaving when I found out that the social norm was a marketing scheme to sell more razors. "Let's make women feel badly about two parts of their bodies so we can triple our profits. Plus, we can make colors which cost more to make but we can charge an exorbitant amount to make up for it."
I am grateful that you shared your heart regarding the whole leather shoes vs. vegan leather shoes. Having bought a vegan leather bag myself, I realize it doesn't last as long as it could along with the reasons you shared, I rather just invest in leather shoes and remember to treat them well, so I won't be buying shoes every single season or year.
I whole heartedly agree, alao vegan leather is plain plastic, that sheds and lands all over nature whete it ends up harming animals anyways as micro plastic.... So its either using natural vegan materials like fabric, of you feel like you cant wear dead animal, the hypocritical choice of plastic that harms indirectly or the way lesser evil of one pair of well sourced leather that lasts a lifetime under good care.
Luckily there are various types of vegan leather nowadays. Admittedly there are some types that are really bad, but others are very durable. I've had my vegan winter boots from "Vegetarian Shoes" for five years and used them daily from October till March. After three years I had to have the heels replaced by a shoemaker, and after 5 years the glue gave up, but the leather was still perfect. I know there is still the argument with the plastic. But one pair of shoes every 5 years is nothing when I am otherwise minimizing plastic in my daily life. Cattle feces also cause a lot of environmental damage, there are valid studies about this phenomenon. I don't mean to provoke anyone here, but I think not wanting to wear some animals while feeding other animals with treats and putting them in cute outfits is also a legitimate lifestyle choice that deserves respect. Before anyone answers to this: please remain calm & objective, we are all adults who are capable of a fair discussion. I don't think Bernadtte minds a plurality of opinions as long as there is proper conduct and etiquette.
@@PhilosophyOnTheNightbus That is to be understood. Thank you for your input. My concern is that the elites can easily raze the plants we rely on for vegan leather to the ground and burn them to a crisp, and we will be in a lose-lose situation with no clothing. There are also fluctuating weather conditions to consider as well.
Yeah-I have a pair of black leather horseback riding boots that I've ended up just using as day to day wear because they're so comfortable, and they haven't broken down at all after 7 years. The only thing that's happened is that the leather's broken in a bit and molded to the shape of my feet. None of the leather horseback riding boots I've had in my 14 years of riding have deteriorated at all- I just grew out of the previous pairs. In fact, my first pair belonged to the barn I rode at, and they'd been using that same pair for young riders for the last 15-20 years (so think daily use for multiple riders over that timespan). It's genuinely incredible how long good leather boots will last you!
I have vegan leather headphones, the headphones still work but the out layer of the "leather" has become deteriorated. I still use the headphones but I will not wear it outside sadly.
Addendum on 19:55 onward/PSA: layering/covering up is AWESOME for hot and dry climates- less so in hot and humid climates. If we look at the historical clothing, specifically the precolonial clothing, of places like southern India, Indonesia, the Pacific Islands, the American Southeast, and central America, a lot of the clothing is pretty minimal- even in places that cultivated plant fibres. So if you're looking to stay cool in a hot, humid climate, "sun's out, guns out" (and legs and midriff) might be your best option. And if someone tries to give you flack for being "immodest", eat them
No midriff showing for me but here in Florida, yes, legs out for sure. 😅. And I’ve learned loose is better than tight. Even if it’s a tank top. I just feel the sweat dripping in tight clothes. And under boob sweat is no joke here.
Went through the entire Caribbean not showing my legs, midriff or arms. I just wore looser clothes and a hat. You can definitely wear head-to-toe clothes in hot, humid environments.
My go to clothing item for summer is culottes (aka. secret pants) made from linen or linen blends. If you get loose fitting ones, you have all of the air circulation benefits of a skirt without the chafing or risk of wardrobe malfunctions. They are also long enough that you can get away with not constantly shaving your legs. If you want to make your own, I like McCall's M8260 (it has huge pockets), though if you are on the shorter side like me, you will definitely need to shorten the pattern so you don't get caught on your pants every time you climb stairs.
I love that pattern! Made mine tea length out of sage linen. Post-menopausal so ya can't really tell if there is hair on my legs. Also, I don't care any more.
I sense a palazzo pant enthusiast. I had a pair of cotton knit shorts with a short front zipper and three small buttons at the yoke that looked very close to this pattern. I loved them to their death. All loose and flowy from the yoke was perfect for summers. Mom thought they were scandalous in a high wind. LMBO
Watched on Nebula, but wanted to comment. I'm in a hot and humid area, half-Pakistani, and raised Muslim. This has brought me to two observations. One is that if I want to look to historical fashion for inspiration I need to keep climate differences in mind. Summer layering doesn't work the same way when the air is wet. Looking at fashion outside the UK (and Europe generally), South Asia has some really humid areas and the clothing has a lot of loose-fitting cotton garments. The other observation is that if you wear anything long enough, your body gets used to it. My sister wears sweaters all year long, and gets cold a lot easier than the rest of us. I've seen people in t-shirts feel the need to push their sleeves to the shoulder from the heat and Muslim women who wear long sleeves and hijabs all summer long. There's a limit to it, but bodies definitely adjust. I won't be forcing that on myself, but if anyone feels like trying to layer linens or long sleeves, it's possible to get used to it.
Also, the Hadisic women etc, always are wearing layers too, and NY (both the city and the state) can get really hot in the summer months. I've been wearing a chemise, blouse and a skirt (mainly cotton and bamboo derived fabrics) for almost an entire year now.
I, from Minnesota (stereotypically cold), was once talking with a woman who lived near Death Valley (stereotypically hot) and we both wound up asking each other how we could stand to live there in those extreme temperatures.
I'm probably not the only person to watch both costube people and things like the native habitat project, but it's also really important to note the effect groundcover has on temperature. Native habitat project did a video where he showed the temperature difference between asphalt, a wooded area, and a grassland/prairie (which is a more native habitat where he is in AL than dense woods), and the grassland had the lowest temps. Which reminded me a lot of Abby Cox's video where she showed it was possible to stay cooler in historical clothing. I find that link between the physical environment and human behavior so cool! Even though it is perhaps very logical. So along with our clothing and buying choices, we may be able to make summers more bearable by advocating for more creative green spaces like greenways, parkways, and green roofs. So like how we have historically-inspired dress with some modern sensibilities, we could have environmental history-inspired cities :)
I love this and whole heartedly agree! Absolutely we should advocate for this in public spaces. For those of us with yards, we can all start now by ditching our lawns and replacing them with native plants appropriate to our bioregions. My yard is like this and it's amazing how much cooler it is than surrounding areas, even though they have bigger shade trees than I do. It also made a world of difference when wildfire smoke was an issue. I couldn't breathe elsewhere in my neighborhood without my nose, eyes and throat burning. But in my yard, I could breathe easily and the air was visibly clearer. Plus, it's really amazing being more closely connected with all the flora, fauna and natural cycles that have been part of the history of this place for ages. Living history at it's finest.
I work at a preschool and I discovered there is one corner of the playground that is several degrees cooler than the rest. There is a house behind us that has 3 huge trees in their backyard who's branches come close to our fence. The wind blowing through those leaves is cooler than the air coming in over the hot asphalt parking lot on the other side of the playground. It is so tangible even my 2 year old students can feel it and congregate in that corner even when it doesn't have full shade, unlike the fully shaded parts which are over rubberized safety floors under the plastic, metal-framed play structures.
@rebeccat715 -- This! So much truth. Used to work in a conservation district job, and one of the training modules we did during Covid lockdown was about the difference in temperature in city areas without the shading effects of trees and other greenery. Without them, all those unbroken lengths of asphalt is basically like the city roads are limbs wearing tight black pleather jackets and leggins, attracting (and retaining) all of that scorching heat and raising the ambient air temperature.
Yes!! There's some groups who are doing great work too of increased tree cover for more shade and better flood mitigation. Even if there's not enough area for a park, a few strategically placed trees can have a significant impact on people, especially near places like bus stops if there isn't other cover provided
I have had to do this for many years now, as I live in Australia and have skin cancer issues. It is so good to hear someone else point out that synthetics, including vegan leather, are plastics! I have people ask me if I’m hot - I’m much cooler than most people I work with, because all my clothes are loose linen and cotton, and I’m completely covered, so no sun exposure on skin. And the reduced washing is definitely a bonus!
Linen and cotton are great for heat but not good for uv rays filtering. Specially when they are light colors. There are some things you may do like buying products that you wash your clothes with and help rising the uv protection. In my case I bought a uv 50 upf cover for my shoulders and arms that I layer. Take care!
Definitely grain of salt here, bc I have zero notion whether my things are synthetic, or a cotton blend of some kind. BUT! Living in the southeastern USA, I've suffered through so many summers in the wrong clothes, and of all places I learned better from DragonCon. That convention takes place in August, in Atlanta Georgia, also known as the Armpit of Hell (humid, hot, AND closed-in areas so no breeze to be found, it's awful). But the secret I learned was that layers ARE better, which feels so counter-intuitive. But even with cotton blend, a layer right against the skin helps SO MUCH with heat. For all the reasons Bernadette explains, but I wanted to mention that this WILL work with cheap stuff too if that's all you have available to you. All my "foundation" shirts were bargain-basement, on clearance things in a Walmart, so not exactly great quality. But they've saved me from heat exhaustion and they've lasted years, so I'm not unhappy with them. My point mainly is: try out what you already have, too! Anything you don't have to shell out for is also good for the environment and sustainability!
Very nice to see Miss Banner's hair down for a bit. It's lovely when up, but really quite stunning when worn loose. Learned about layering as a child, as mother's father was a mason who worked, in summer in Arkansas and South Texas, in long-sleeved cotton flannel shirts and denim. I asked him why he wore long sleeves and wasn't it horrible in the humidity? He told me the long sleeves were to protect him from both the sun and the brick dust. He always wore undershirts and explained that if the shirt got sweaty, just moving around created a breeze, which was cooling. Yes, I'm soft, because I could never.
When I was breastfeeding (a hot and sweaty pursuit in summer), I’d do similar, a vest with a loose shirt or t-shirt over the top for the breeze and privacy.
Yes! I want to invest in nice shoes but I have ruined the birks I own after only a few years so I don't want to invest in shoes and not know how to take care of them.
Maybe a discussion on recognizing differences in leather and what products/procedures are more appropriate for each? I can’t imagine the care for her cow leather satchel is the same as for kid gloves.
There's already plenty of youtube videos about it if you're curious! Even entire channels dedicated to how to properly care for leather. But I agree anyway, I think Bernadette would be very thorough, plus she'd give a historical perspective which would be interesting.
I have to wear compression tights and it’s been amazing how much more comfortable I am in the summer in my skirts. I hope everyone finds the hot-weather clothes of their dreams.
One thing that I never see anyone to mention, but it´s crutial - Linen is ANTIBACTERIAL. So even if you sweat, you won´t smell, cause that fabric doesn´t allow bacteria to do their thing. Cotton has also antibacterial factor, but less. So, even if people wear sheer, breathable polyester, they would smell in it.
This is so true! After half a day in my cotton top it would stink. Now I only wear shifts closest to my body. I have to switch my thin cotton shift after a day, but my linnen shifts can be worn for several days unless I'm sick or super stressed. I didn't understand the "I can smell the fear on you" until I switched to linnen, the stank of bacteria on cotton masked it lol.
I used to have a favorite brand of moisture-wicking socks. Working in restaurant at the time meant my feet were imprisoned in plastic for hours while being physically active. I loved them, but eventually had to buy replacements as they wore out. I think they were trying to save a bit of money, and let's just say I immediately noticed the difference when I took off my gross shoes at the end of my shift. 🤢 So thankful I found a small US based manufacturer that makes cotton work socks. They don't seem interested in cutting corners after being a customer for over 5 years.
Bernadette Banner: Influencing in the best possible way since 2018 I love the encouragement of Natural fibers! (I simply cannot fathom how people can stand wearing polyester and nylon in the heat of summer. Or anytime, actually.) Also, I am 100% with you on the natural leather shoes! I have a pair of victorian style boots that have been going strong (once they were resoled) since the late 1980s! (Although, in all honesty, I haven't worn them regularly in the past 22 years. But I could!)
Excellent! And yes, more fashion rants please! Me, I'm male and in, let's say, financially challenged circumstances, so what to do about shoes? Educate one's eye! I've done so, and on a walk through our local Salvation Army about 22 years ago, I spotted an amazing pair of mens' dress shoes of the highest quality. I bought them for five bucks, then took them to be re-heeled, at which point the cobbler did a double take: 'Do you know that when these were new, they'd have been about five hundred dollars?!" They came from a small shoe factory in my town, in the 1940's. I've since had the heels and once the soles replaced, but take careful care of these shoes. They are incredibly comfortable, not only the design but they're leather lined, so my feet don't sweat. And to think someone had these, now I have them, and when I'm gone, they'll go out into the world so someone else can wear them with the pleasure I do! Style has little to do with money!
Bit of an odd comment to leave, but bare with me please... I first came across your channel back during the dark times of the medical confinement era *ahem* and as I lived with my mum, often watched you with her. Im not a clothes making perosn, i watch yoh simply because i enjoy seeing others make things in fields im not qualified in. My mum was a seamstress a long time ago, and she got a lot of pleasure and interest from watching the things you did. Sadly I lost her just before Christmas last year, but with this video popping up on my feed, I wanted to stop and say, thank you for the enthusiasm, charm and wonder you bring with your videos. Please keep up the amazing content, but most of all, keep on being you!
As someone who has worked outside in landscaping, and done labor in both a uniform and my own clothes, she's 100% on the money for practical summer clothes. There comes a point in the season where you have to start putting clothes back on because of the sun! And fabric is so important. One of my jobs required Dickies uniform pants and it was hell. A loose white half sleeve is the perfect top for summer labor IMO, paired with a big hat.
Thank you for the shout-out to real leathers! If you take care of them, they take care of you. My everyday backpack for university, which still comes with me on every trip now, is probably almost twenty years old, and conditioning it, getting rivets repaired over the years when a couple popped, has kept it working like new.
As a vegetarian, I buy secondhand leather - it already exists, it lasts a long time, and if you care for it properly it will continue to serve you well 💖 I understand the principle of vegan leather, but I can't get behind the materials and processes that create vegan leather goods for the same reasons you stated ✨
If you have a wool overlayer, like a pinafore dress. If you wear it with a linen or cotton underlayer like a chemise you can wet the underlayer around your legs and the wool will trap your legs in a wonderful cold mist. Thats how the medieval/viking reenactiors do it for hot summer days in Sweden. And it is definitely historically accurate as that is 100% what happens to your medieval shift when you walk in the dewy grass in the morning.
Living somewhere that it is typically 90%+ humidity during July & August, it makes me feel slimy (yet somehow sticky at the same time) just thinking about that! 🤣
Before I get into the video too far. Just walked down to my local coffee shop. It’s hot out. Me and roommate both brought parasols. Keeping the sun *off* of you eliminates a little bit of heat no matter what you’re wearing, and helps keep you safer from the sun/sunburn etc. Okay! Back to the show!
I bring umbrellas with hook handles to the renn faire now. I hook it on my arm when I'm inside a tent and pop it up as soon as I go out. I also have fallen in love with wide-brimmed hats. I roast easily in the sun and I wilt if left out for too long. Hats and parasols are lifesavers!
I bought a pair of classic black leather cowboy boots when I was 27. I am now 59 and they are still beautiful. They’ve had one pair of new soles, and I polish them regularly, but otherwise they have been well loved and often worn. To me, they were a sustainable purchase. They were made once, shipped once, and can be maintained and repaired.
I visited Galveston Island Texas and toured mansions that were built around 1900. The mansions had a central entry that reached from ground level to the roof. When residents opened louvers in the roof, and opened windows on the ground floor it created a chimney, resulting in a nice breeze. The windows reached from ground level and were tall enough to walk through. Covered porches provided shade.
But still the wealthy tended to leave for the summer to visit cooler places. Even with the windows open and the vertical breeze, when it is 95 and gulf humid, Galveston is just awfully hot.
This is so useful. I'm not one normally for historical fashion, however, being a mosquito magnet who lives in the south, the notion of being able to wear (generally) long clothes without sweltering is a welcome one. I only learned about fast fashion recently, although I've always been rather thrifty, so I am pleased to see that a lot of my closet (which I have tended to diligently over the years) already works splendidly for this! Thank you very much for the guide!!!
Followup: I am also really glad to hear someone bringing up how unsustainable vegan leather is. I get it, leather is expensive and we definitely consume more than we should, however, finding genuine leather/suede shoes thrifted is, in my opinion, a great way to mitigate that. Look for well-made shoes that are repairable and as said, can be taken care of for a lifetime. I just got these gorgeous olive-colored-suede shoes re-heeled a couple months ago. Another perk of thrifting shoes: Usually they're made better than what you'll find on mass-market now!!!
I always save to buy the best quality shoes I can afford and then re-heel and re-sole. I had a pair of European made boots that my mom splurged on my Freshman year of high school for me that I wore for 25 years! My biggest problem was always my foot size 11 US, but now more young girls have larger feet so it is a little easier
@@sharonmulloy2181 still, 25 years is amazing!!! Also, that's such a wonderful and unique story. I hope you get to carry your mother's gift with you for a long time to come.
I love how you explain the fast fashion you have and the changes you made to historical dress. I am a new historical dresser and I have like a wardrobe that 70% modern 30% historical and you’re such an inspiration. Anybody got plus size historical recommendations? Shops or styles?
I am plus sized. Honestly I got back into sewing because it can be super hard to find anything suitable and then most of it is poly or poly blends. Never looked back. I have way fewer clothes but what I do have fits and I love to wear. Winner winner chicken dinner!
I totally agree with your stance on leather and fashion sustainability! Its so cool that you don't pretend that this isn't a reality, I appreciate that you actually like address it and let us know what you think, very cool of you :)
I will say, in the faux leather vs real weather debate, it is so so important to take care of your genuine leather items. If you buy cheaply made real leather and do not take care of it, it can fall apart nearly as fast as faux leather. On another note, I know the purpose of this video is not to buy anything, but I have been searching for a nice belt that suits my style and the ring belt is perfect! Thank you for this video!
I'm definitely an advocate for genuine leather articles, particularly for items like belts and shoes which see a LOT of wear and tear. They are also items that can be repaired or salvaged in one way or another, which means the life of genuine leather goods can be extended well beyond cloth or petroleum derived alternatives.
Super agree about leather. Between my best friend being Native and both of us doing medieval reenactment, leather is absolutely superior. I'm so glad I only wear my linen and cotton medieval clothes in summer here in the western US, because going outside in this heat would be awful otherwise. Keep preaching!
Arguably leather is more environmentally friendly as it is a by-product of the meat industry, it is easily repairable, and will last forever if you take care of it. Lastly, it is very versatile, available in a variety of finishes, colors and weights.
I wish more people would bring this up! I spin a lot, and economically, wool and leather are byproducts of the meat industry. They are underutilized, and a fair amount of the raw material goes to waste for lack of market. Of course there are exceptions, and it varies geographically, but still. It’s way less wasteful to use them.
leather production is horrible for the environment. You should look at what tanneries do. Plus where they are produced in the world and how it pollutes waterways.
@@marley7659 All materials are bad for the environment at their current rate of overconsumption, but given the length of time a leather product will last versus a plastic-based product, leather is far and away the more ecologically friendly option
@@marley7659 This is very similar to the argument of electric vs fossil fuels for vehicles. Manufacturing an electric car is not good for the environment, however, in the long term, the energy burned is far far less damaging than a car powered on gasoline. If you can buy a used electric vehicle that's best, but even if you MUST buy a new car, it's still better to buy an electric one. It is still better in the long run to purchase something made of leather, because plastic does not decompose when it becomes trash, and the process of making plastic is still more damaging, and the plastic clothing is still less durable and will need to be replaced more. This is about harm reduction, not harm elimination which may not be possible.
These tips are SO important for something like the renaissance faire where you want to get that historical look but not get heatstroke. My friends and I went last year and I was the only one wearing all cotton, and I was the only one that didn’t overheat. I’m trying to make them some cotton 18th century style skirts for this year’s renfaire so that doesn’t happen again!
From what I saw and read on youtube and the comment sections about the topic of natural fibers (plant fibers, wool...) it was often mentioned, one reason people nowadays might be reluctant to switch back to those fibers, is because they think it's too complicated and timeconsuming to care for. We practically lost the knowledge how to wash and care for our clothes correctly, since we can just toss everything in the washing machine. Kinda like most folks don't remember 15 different phone numbers anymore since our mobiles save them anyways.
Echoing all the other comments praising the section about ethical leather consumption. I have the same views on it. This last Christmas, I asked my family for an everyone-chips-in gift of a genuine leather purse from a small craftswoman on Etsy, because I wanted something that would last for many years. I am so in love with my bag and even more in love with the fact that it is going to be with me for *so long* (provided I care for it appropriately).
Thanks for these wonderful ideas! Your clothes mixed with the purchased items are wonderful. I will just say this: Silk! I've worn many many thin and lightweight silk tops and bottoms in my lifetime specifically to keep cool, none of it tight or fussy, just breezy and light layers in heat and even more in the cold. The fiber comes right out of the worm's body in a spiral, thus right away trapping air.. the air barrier isn't just a heat trap, it's' a cooling "trap' as well. I think though, discouraging the overuse of silk (like we saw some years back) is useful. But it truly is a wonderful material, and natural as well. Cheers and again, love your style and your work!
It depends entirely on the weave of the silk. I would not want to wear a silk taffeta or satin in the heat, but a plainwoven raw silk should be far more breathable.
annual leg shave is so real and honestly i dont even shave all the way and just trim bc the hairs get too long that it starts to bother me in sensory related ways and thats the only reason i ever even bother so it's like a haircut but for my legs lol
That first outfit with the full, natural-fiber blouse and long, full skirts also looks like high-fashion styles of the mid-1970s during the Soft Look/Big Look period of 1974 to 1978, especially stuff from Lagerfeld for Chloe in 1977. High-fashion clothes in that style from back then were oversized and in natural fibers with full dirndl skirts, often tiered, often layered like yours, plus full blouses in similar fabrics. Earthtones and tiny floral prints were common for them, and many of them were inspired by 19th century undergarments, particularly the skirts.
Thank you for shouting out renn faires! This is my second year working up in Bristol, and it's quite literally the happiest place on earth. It's work, of course, but there's a wonderful sense of community and belonging. When you buy from the renn faire, you are keeping these lovely nomadic people creating and moving on their merry way! And to those with the budget looking for full-on forever garments -- please come to the renn faire! Come early in the season, find something you love, save up for it, and come toward the end of the season to grab it. It will have been made by a person you can probably chat with (or who at least knows them), and if you need something repaired, many shops are happy to help. Please support your nearest renaissance faire!
the biggest thing i love about modernizing historical fashion is that you can have full coverage outfits to protect your skin from the sun or hide your unshaven legs (lol) or for religious purposes (i literally JUST got to the part of the video where you say this) or for whatever other reason so yea!
Your video on the theft of your renaissance dress was my introduction to fast fashion. I had never heard of it before and was woefully ignorant of many of the topics that you discussed then. Thank you for continuing to advocate and educate on the venn diagram of history, fashion, industry, ethics…
Yes! Specifically beginner-friendly methods easily and affordably available in the 21st century. Historically accurate laundry routines don't work in our modern setting, sadly. But I'd really be interested in learning how to preserve my clothes - spot and stain treatments, mending, how to tell if something needs to be washed, how to refresh and store what doesn't need to be washed yet, how to know which clothes need a gentle cool wash and which ones need a thorough hot wash etc.
From my understanding, in general, cool to warm water on gentle cycle. Also, people tend to be heavy handed when using their detergent as well as their fabric softener; less is more in this case, unless you've completely soiled it. If possible, try to line dry. If you have the space you can even line dry inside. If that's not possible use the energy savings/delicate option on your dryer, but just know it'll take longer to dry this way.
The timing! I realised I needed another breezy skirt, couldn't afford the better brands so got some UK made linen on sale instead and I'm sewing my own. It's a process as I have no sewing machine and my hands aren't great thanks to fibromyalgia but I've just got the waistband and hem left now!
Don't forget HATS.Desert dweller here, we do field trials completely covered, gloves and all. It keeps you cooler to wear loose cotton to keep the sun off your skin. Get a good wide brimmed breathable hat and enjoy not getting a sun burn or heat stroke.
Bernadette, you inspired me to make and tailor my own clothes and I haven't bought any fast fashion in a few years now, I only thrift and buy from small businesses now and I've most recently made an adjustable skirt that fits with the dress code of my work and it has pockets! I want to make sure you know you've inspired someone, and you have no idea what you mean to me, I really love you and want to be like you when I grow up. I also made sure to make that skirt out of a linen cotton blend because it's been 40 degrees for the past few weeks here and it has kept me cool!
If anyone want's to recreate their own ring belt, it's pretty much the easiest belt to make, most good leather suppliers can supply natural veg tan leather as a strip in a variety of widths and lengths all you need is a suitably long strip (typically 1.25 inches wide) with a suitable ring (typically 2 inches in diameter) you can sew the loop to hold the ring in place by hand or rivet it, stain the leather any colour you want or some suppliers will sell you pre stained belt blanks
haha I immediately thought of the Sam Vimes boots theory when she started talking leather vs. faux/vegan leather-- one lasting while the other is replaced many times over in the same span applies for economics AND sustainability!
Genuine, well cared-for leather boots lasts forever. I bought leather riding boots about ten years ago and have worn them at least twice a week since, in a dirty environment where they're not handled gently. And they still look amazing after a little wash and shine.
Fun fact as Bernadette now lives in UK. If you throw away your old unusable shoes they probably won't go in a landfill but would most likely go to Sweden. 😅 We have a shortage of burnsble trash so UK pay us to take theirs and than we burn it up to make electricity and heat for housing. We have carbon dioxide filters amd high pressure thingys as well so it is fairly clean and much better then burning coal and oil.
Thank you for this!!! I’ve been working on incorporating natural fiber pieces into my wardrobe. On a separate note, rock those historically accurate legs! I am blessed with lighter body hair but do not shave. It took my husband a minute to adjust to the change but once I quit apologizing for not shaving, it was liberating. And, I have more time and money to do other things and don’t have to worry about nicking myself with non plastic razors or feel guilty about consuming and throwing away more plastics. That’s how I practice sustainability, free the body hairs!
I can’t remember if it’s this video or a different one, but I’m so thankful you called out Jobear boots, I’m obsessed with the shoes I bought from Joanna. Thank you for the rec!💗🙏
My historical outfit of choice for our 100 degree Farenheit months (July to October) is the Muumuu. It was developed around 1820 in the Hawaiian islands by colonizers. I have several vintage patterns, and there are authentic traditional patterns available. I make them out of bright cottons, and it's something I can wear all day. I also find them occasionally in thrift stores, and keep a rack of them on hand for the summer.
Regarding the color of fabrics: I found an article (quick google search) which reported that dark fabrics don't actually make you hotter in the sun, and the temperature-transferrence difference between light and dark is negligible. So if you want to go for historical inspiration then light fabrics are the way to go bc that was the received wisdom, but if you want to wear dark colors in summer, it seems to be fine!
Can agree! My wardrobe is 95% black but with these tips shared in this video it's not bad. I mean in the heat everything is going to be hot. I do live in Finland and the max temperature is 30 °C so I haven't worn my wardrobe in extreme heat.
One of my grandmothers who lived in roughly mediteranian climate would agree. We had to visit her as children and she was always wearing a long black skirt in full summer sun to keep the heat away amd work in the field.
Would love to see the menswear version! Unfortunately a lot of menswear is more form-fitting in the victorian era. I've been leaning into big viking pants haha.
Viking baggies are the BEST!! There's a lot of viking guys in my SCA group, and they're always comfortable in those pants. Warm in the winter, breezy in fights and the summer, worn wrapped up for more warmth or to not catch brambles, worn loose to catch the wind, they are just bonkers versatile.
Zach Pinsent of Pinsent Tailoring has a wonderful GRWM for summer! Must have been last summer or the one before? Similar points naturally, but menswear. Love his channel.
A linen tunic and sandals! :D I'm a woman, but I ride a bike for getting around and I do a lot of garden work. When I wear fine and gauzy clothes, I always am afraid of damaging them, and long skirts are just too much of a hassle on the bike. That's why my favourite period to look for for historybounding is Early Medieval Menswear and also antique influences.
I enjoyed this so much.Our economy has been consumerism gone wild for entirely too long. Its roots are, I think, a reaction to the uber frugality instilled in those who lived through the Great Depression. I know my grandmother expressed love by handing her granddaughters cash and sending us to the mall to shop. Granted, she was a bit baffled when I came back with books instead of some pretty dress or shoes or...LOL! Other grandmothers used food as I love you. No wonder my generation are such loons. I simply love your entire attitude toward purchases and sustainability. Quality over quantity. Avoiding adding to the landfills. I hope you inspire several generations to embrace the richness of the path you have chosen.
My goal is to avoid synthetic fibers as much as possible while adhering and to a very tight budget. It's more difficult each year as inflation outpaces my disability by far. If I carefully choose some fast fashion items and wear them regularly for at least six years, then I didn't play the seasonal disposable wardrobe game. I also bought most pieces at a thrift store. There are some exceptions such as my cotton blend stretch chino pants, that I bought for $17 a pair at Walmart, five years ago. They stood up to bleach, are comfortable and very rugged. They are men's trousers and since I have a rectangular figure, it works perfectly. I wore them for work at the hotel and as casual clothing. I do love to make my own clothes as it's how I get exactly what I want. As I have a rectangular figure, clothes need quite a bit of adjustment to look and fit well. So sewing them is a great solution. I work some historical pieces into my contemporary geeky/lazy Goth wardrobe. I plan my clothes rather than impulse buy. It's going to be a year or two before I can go back to work. I must save up to buy the best that I can afford an often comb through mill ends and clearance. My clothes must at least do double duty and be for business professional and casual, using mostly accessories to make the difference. This means that my wardrobe isn't very big. I will say that I am fan of ponte knits for pencil skirts and as I do my own thing, don't care about trendy. I have a few that I been wearing for over six years and they look great. I'm am in my later 50s, and I stopped caring about what others thought of my body hair. It's never stopped me from bare legs or sleeveless tops. If someone is offended or squeamish about it, then they need to go get a life.
I have bought items from Walmart and Target that are still good 15 years running and bought indie stuff that costs $ that didn’t last. I work as a teacher, so I tend to buy cotton dresses from Retrolicious when they have sales. I am on the small end of plus size so it is hard to find items that are cheap and work for me. But many stores have cotton dresses in the summer for $20. I can afford this but not the $100-200 indie companies want online. I tried to sew a bodice and it was ok, but I don’t enjoy sewing. :(
@@wildmarjoramdieselpunk6396 we also what is best for our own situations. Sewing is something that takes time to build up in skill. My take on it, the more one believes in themselves, the easier it goes. I can tell how long something will last by looking at it and the construction as well as fiber content. Means putting a lot back on the racks at retail. Thrift store items usually show how long it will last. I mend my clothes which makes them last far longer. I don't have more than 5 trousers, 3 jeans, 5 skirts, 5 knit tops, 5 blouses/shirts and 5 dresses. I do own about a dozen each cardigans and blazers. My oldest one, I nabbed from my Dad's closet and it's from the mid 50s.
I've been wearing my split crotch circular drawers under any knee length skirts and dresses, mostly for chafing purposes, but ohmygod. It's the airiest most wonderful option.
I have to thank Bernadette for inspiring me to learn how to sew. 4 years on and my summer wardrobe is filled with light weight woven cotton and linen dresses, shirts, skirts and trousers that work so much better to keep me cool in the summer than my previous denim shorts and a singlet outfits. Plus they're so much easier to maintain and mend if damaged
I volunteer at a historical railway museum. We spend a lot of time outdoors in full sun, and most of us wear a cotton underlayer, even with our modern polo shirts. We've found that, while the undershirt absorbs a lot of moisture, the upper layer serves to control the evaporation, preventing sore muscles that come from cooling too quickly. The same layers trap heat on cooler days in late Spring and early Autumn.
I’m a simple person, I see Bernadette romping in a video, I click. Thank you so much for some of your great ideas on how to dress sustainably as well as responsibly (for your body and the environment). Also, thank you for helping me begin my own journey into sewing, it’s just begun so far but you’ve been a big help in helping me figure out my style and how to make things that I typically don’t see in the world of fast fashion.
Bernadette, I admire you from afar. I always wanted to dress in clothes that I loved instead of what made me acceptable to other mothers whose children were friends with mine. They thought I was strange even in 'normal' clothes. But now, no kids and I could do what I want. Pirate shirt of linen, here I come. No amount of marketing will ever make me believe that garments made of recycled water bottles will wick anything away from me. I'm in North Carolina and couldn't manage even the styles you showed today. Floor length skirts, long sleeves, boots?! I have had no boots since the 1970s. Winter is a better time because we can put on more interesting fabrics and combinations of them, but winter is beginning to escape us too. I struggle to find 100% cotton socks. I have followed you for a good while now, but today's video really made my day. Not having a lot of happy days over here right now, you know. Thanks for the work you do particularly as it soothes and entertains weary minds.
What is up with the lack of 100% cotton socks? They've all got a bit of elastic or nylon in them now, and it's driving me nuts. I ordered a bunch of 100% wool socks on etsy, which works most of the year where I live, but June through August I just wear sandals if I can get away with it. But, being around livestock and going hiking and camping in the mountains means a lot of the time I'm in boots, really wishing I had natural fiber socks!! Wool is better for you when hiking, it's true (better at keeping your feet dry), but they're always thick, and it would be nice to have the option of wearing thinner socks that aren't partly plastic.
@@horseenthusiast9903 If you want a thin wool sock as thin as cotton socks, they'd have to be knit in a mill, I believe. Knitting thick wool socks can be done by hand. Here just regular cotton crew socks are at best 25% polyester (big brands) and the only all cotton I can find are diabetic socks, which so far have been thick. This wasn't true ten years ago but all my old socks have perished. A little nylon might not be bad. It's possible to only reinforce the heel and toe with nylon, if anyone would provide that.
Hats! Hats are soooo key for cooling the body and keeping skin from being burnt. Also avoiding heat stroke, shading the eyes etc. Straw hats/panama hats etc. Also so many cute hats in the thrift stores.
Thank you for a great video. I would rate materials as such: polyester 1/10, cotton 4/10, linnen 10/10. The difference between cotton and linnen is greater than the difference between synthetics and cotton in my experience, especially if worn directly to the skin. I totally agree about layering, and I want to make an ode to wool here. As the outer layer it isolates against the hot sun while letting every little wind gust right through to cool you down. As long as it's old fashion hand-wash only wool. Modern wool is generally super-wash which is a treatment where the fibers are coated in plastic to make them washer maschine safe. That is obviously not very breathable. I thought the bum pad would be impossible in summer weather, but it holds out the layers from the legs making it airy, so even my poly filled one helps against heat. As long as the air is moving everything is fine. It's when you go indoors the problem starts... Unless you have AC
As a guy-dude-man-shaped person, I have been adding to my linnen shirts and trousers in the past few years, the vast majority of it second hand. There's even t-shirts out of knit linnen! I prefer linnen over cotton, as it's better at odor mitigation, which is a... thing for sweaty testosterone based humans.
@@mala3isity Plastic is good for keeping rain out, but other than that it’s not that great in the cold, since you don’t want to have sweat trapped close to your skin and then cool down.
Can you maybe do a video on laundry--like how you keep those white clothes clean? Also, I'm wondering about tropical-weight wool for summer. It doesn't sound very practical, and maybe that's why you didn't mention it. Is it only reserved for times when you have to dress formally in warm weather?
Bernadette did post a video a while ago exploring an old hand-washing laundry process (titled "Ok but how did the Edwardians WASH these dresses?"). I forget whether she also explained her normal modern washing machine process in that video, but regardless, that may be a good place to start. At the very least there's one piece of advice that's still useful today: if your clothing is inclined to be pale yellowish rather than a pure white, a small bit of blue dye can counter that and wind up with cloth that looks bright white.
I love the socks you wore with a couple of your outfits !! They so added to the look you presented and are so, so you! That chemise a la reine dress looked so comfortable and I remember the video where you made it. Perfect to wear on hot SoCal days where it can get into triple digits by Aug & Sept. I'm going to check out Beara and Beara --- I seriously doubt I can afford their products, but I can dream of saving up to buy one of their bags.
I love Tee’s skirt and as a relatively new sewist it looks like something I can make, and make with striped fabric, a personal fav. Unlike a circle skirt I don’t have to worry about stripe direction! Thank you, Tee!
Was literally just chatting with friends the other day about how Japan goes for loose cool full coverage clothing in the summer (I come from somewhere where the opposite is typical) when we were chatting about how to deal with heat in a summer holiday lol
if anyone lives in or has family and regularly visits a truly hot country, they will know that being COVERED is much more preferrable than removing layers. i’m talking when the temperature goes upward of 35+ degrees. that is when you, instead of undressing to release heat, you want to be as covered as possible to PRESERVE your body temperatufe, since the air around you will be hotter. the material and grain of your layers are incredibly important aswell, since being in a polyester bag truly is a nightmare. the clothes in truly hot areas of the world are meant to hold the heat OUT.
an hour and 8 minutes of fashion rants from BB?? Sounds like you got what it takes to do a podcast, mah girl! It doesn't have to be huge, just like, one hour a month or smth. Could even be a Patreon exclusive! :3
You can use my code BB1 for 1,000 free coins in Home Design Makeover: hdm.onelink.me/Eg2n/BB1
Thanks to Home Design Makeover for sponsoring!
Hi
Hey
Hope the shovelware paycheck is worth it
You know it’s much hotter now, right?
By the way, Vincent Briggs recently made a video about making 18th century shirts, that should be worth checking out and maybe linking here for those interested.
ETA: By machine. That's the important detail, for those who do have a sewing machine and don't have time.
"I don't trust the internet with my historically-accurate unshaven legs" is such a fair and legit point and I am CACKLING
I don’t trust the cryptid hunters with mine!
"I can see her *GASP* ANKLES!!!"
...says the woman who can claim fame for peak ankle content...😅 Socks or not, Ms. Banner, you rock!
Yes to your mini speech about leather. Buying something that LASTS is so important to end the cycle of overconsumption.
Agreed. I also try to get leather items second hand to lessen the environmental impact. Cobblers can work wonders.
Right? Totally agree! And as long as we eat meat - there is leather as a byproduct that has to be used somehow!
im absolutely gutted after seeing my fancy fake leather jackets that i bought within the past 5 years just disintegrate in my closet because i didnt wear them very often because they were the "good clothes" you save for special occasions. meanwhile, this one genuine leather jacket that was a hand me down that i've had for 15 years is still going strong. leather is something you simply CANNOT cheap out on.
@@_mako i'm mourning the loss of those jackets too now 😭😭😭😭
Most of my decent sized leather collection is older than I am, and I remember floppy disks 😂 and most was secondhand anyway. The number of times I would have had to replace each item if they were pleather would cause the environmental impact of using vegan alternatives to definitely outweigh the impact of using this byproduct of the animal industry. I fully understand why people want great vegan alternatives, but the current technology simply doesn't yet justify its use when durability is desired. One day perhaps it will get there, but in the meantime, leather it is.
Another point about animal leather vs faux leathers: you do NOT want your foot enclosed in plastic during the summer
I believe the technical term for that is "swamp foot."
@@FunkyLittlePoptarti thought it was trench foot
I thought is was athlete's foot
@@ethernetgirl2001 That's when your feet are wet for so long that your skin rots and falls off. Swamp foot is just uncomfortably sweaty.
Agreed. Podiatrists have been ranting this for years. Mention Crocs and see the eye twitch. LOL
When I was 19 and started as a carpenter's apprentice with my father, he gave me a leather belt that he had worn when he became a carpenter in his late teens. Last week, my nine-year-old son needed a belt for his carpenter pants, and I brought out my father's old belt. My father wore it in his pants for many years, until he became too round in the waist. I have had it in my work pants for 20 years and have also worn it at LARP events. Now we'll see how long my son will have it. A leather belt, three generations. And considering the condition of the belt today, it will easily survive to a fourth generation.
That's actually such a sweet story! And think of how much more your son will appreciate it considering it's history!
I just bought a pair of off-white leather granny boots someone wore in the ~70's; no idea what the brand or exact year they were made are. They're gorgeous and buttery and if you couldn't see how worn the bottoms of the soles were and if I hadn't had to use pliers to gently tighten the hooks for the top laces, you'd have no idea they weren't made yesterday. Gorgeous, comfortable shoes that, unlike my modern shoes, I don't even have to wear arch supports in. They're at least fifty years old! I wear them almost every day, and I get compliments from people from every generation for them. I plan to take good care of them so I can pass them down to my children.
Recently I encountered a trash heap in the neighbourhood. (Stuff set out for collection.) It seemed to come from the flat of an old man and included
- a thick board, which I saved for a building project in our community garden,
- two iffy pieces of fabric, which have since had a round in my washing machine on high temp and one of which has been turned into a gardening apron. The other might become a petticoat at some point.
- an only slightly worn leather belt which will certainly last me for the next twenty years
Note about the name “genuine leather” - in the US in particular, the regulations and standards regarding this term “genuine leather” means it’s usually just leather scraps bound together with glue and put together into a shape, much like particleboard vs. real lumber. If looking for real, lovely, top quality, high durability leather - look for “full grain” or “top grain leather” instead of “genuine leather”. Love your videos!
Yes to this! I wish that more people looked into what quality of leather they are buying. The term "genuine leather" is excellent marketing to make lower quality leather sound better than it actually is or that it just means that is is real leather and not faux. And just like with fabrics, the price goes up when you buy better quality leather but it will last so much longer and it also looks better!
I've never heard this before, thank you for the tip! I was wondering why some leather items I've had before hadn't lasted like they should.
Oh, I didn't know that
Half grain is also good, depending on what item the leather is being used to make!
Used to be in the office furniture business…I learned the difference between ‘full grain’ & ‘top grain’ leathers. Full grain is superior. Top grain is basically the upper bit separated from the bottom part…it’s less $$$ than full grain, but not nearly as durable nor forgiving.
Delicate constitutions on unshaven legs killed me. I love you 😭
Not me getting a razor ad after seeing this comment
My excuse for continuing to wear pants when in years past I would be wearing shorts is that my heavier legs cause the shorts to gather and bunch. My *reason* is I don’t want to shave my legs to meet other people’s expectations!
How refreshing to hear BB doesn't shave her legs by the standards. Ilove that! I'm older and never have either! My bestie thinks it's disgusting : )))
I'm going to start using "delicate constitution" to describe everyone's silly outrage over inconsequential things.
It's nobody's business if a person shaves their legs or not. If they don't like body hair, they don't have to look.
suuuuper agree with your stance on genuine vs fake leathers. I grew up in an environment that had a LOT of First Nations influence, so using genuine animal materials was always something taken pretty seriously.
The loss of one or two animals for the sake of saving hundreds or even thousands by keeping junk out of the environment is absolutely a worthy sacrifice. Not to mention, depending on where you source your leather, you can get very ethically-raised and ethically-slaughtered leather (among other animal materials!) from the right seller. Def not biased when I say getting Indigenous-made stuff is usually a pretty good option :)
Stuff made from animal materials is SO durable, and considering any sort of cost-value ratio, you're getting a lifetime of use for a small premium worth maybe two or three units of synthetic-made goods.
And I say all of this as a devout vegetarian. Respecting the animals you take from is the most humane thing you can do.
Absolutely agree. I grew up in a family that hunted and farmed a lot, and one of the earliest lessons I learned about that way of life is that the animals are everything. You don't hunt unnecessarily; you only hunt when the ecosystem can handle it and you need to eat, and you only take the animal you need. You don't slaughter livestock unnecessarily; you only slaughter if the death of the animal is directly going to feed someone and hopefully provide some good leather, fur, and bone. In either case, you do it quickly. In the case of both wild animals and livestock, you do it after the animal's had time to live a good life.
Something that I think a lot of folks who are further from where animal supplies come from don't quite grasp is that the use of animal products isn't this black and white thing; the options aren't just factory farming or pure veganism. I was vegan for a few years, and noticed a lot of other vegans online acting like hunting or small farming was exactly equivalent to the cruelties in factory farming. In reality, every farmer I know worries over every animal in their care. Even my gruff old grandpa will spend a full day trying to get one injured cow to feel well and eat again. Every hunter I know is at heart a conservationist, and is deeply concerned with ethical animal consumption, with using the whole animal, and with ensuring the animal suffers as little as possible. There's a good medium ground here, which is discouraged in a capitalist structure that trends towards factory farming, but it is still here if you seek it out.
@horseenthusiast1250 🤝🤝 everything you said, thank you for saying it so concisely, there IS a respectful middle ground and it IS possible
YES! This! Industrial cattle farms are awful, awful places; I would never want to go to one or work there or anything. I'm pretty sure the main reason most milk has to be pasteurized these days is because the conditions in the industrial farms are so terrible that the cattle have to be loaded up on crazy strong antibiotics, and there's all kinds of nastiness in the milk. I've grown up on raw goat's milk my whole life, and the reason it works is because our goats have room to roam and have their pen cleaned out daily. They're not sitting in their own filth, rather they're loved and cared for and spoiled their whole lives; *that* is the difference.
@horseenthusiast1250 - I've grown up on an itty bitty little farm, where we raise goats and chickens and such. We've never killed an animal before its time (when we butcher chickens it's always because we don't have enough room for the chicks we're bringing in, and because the chickens we're slaughtering are the older ones who no longer lay eggs; same thing with our goats), and we *always* do it with gratitude in our hearts for the chance we've had to love and spoil the animal before turning it into supper.
Just a heads up, if you see items listed as made of "genuine leather", it's often not actually leather. Look for items that specify if it's cow leather or horsehide etc, or even which tannery it comes from. It's such a mess out there lol.
The needs of the one vs. the needs of the many.
So happy to finally hear someone talk about “vegan leather” and saying it like it is.
It's basically a marketing term. It's neither leather nor vegan. Unless you don't care about the lives of sea animals and birds that are killed by the petrol industry ...
I do wish she would clarify that "genuine leather" means chopped up leather thats been put back together. If you want real leather then you need to buy directly from artisans or search for "top grain" or "full grain" leather. Do not buy genuine leather. It will fall apart in a couple years.
@@geeperjanei never knew thanks for sharing!
@geeperjane as a leather craftsperson I wholeheartedly agree!!!
@@lillysternMy parents found out the hard way after they bought an expensive new couch. I hate dishonest marketing 🥲
hey so leather maker student here, and I would like to add that most leather skins(?) that we buy are from meat farms idk if you can say it like that like the cows or whatever the animal is, its main purpose is not the leather it's for its meat. so the tannery are just taking whats going to the trash essencially. it's just recycling in a sense
thank you for talking about the "vegan leather" too! I've been trying to educate my family and friends about it and how it's only basically plastic and really not good for the environment
I came here to say this!! It's such an overlooked issue- how we just use the animal for it's "edible meat" and that's it. There is so much that can be used that would actually give this animal respect for its sacrifice. Including using what would have normally been thrown away, such as leather.
Learning about how linen absorbs and even diminishes bodily odours because of it's anti-bacterial quality made me look at the linen wearing medieval folk who are (still) often accused of being smelly, in a different way ;)
I wore clothes like that all day, under a woollen dress, in summer, while cooking over a fire and at the end of the day still didn't stink as much as the folks near me with their modern clothes ;)
Yes, visitors were amazed. "Aren't you super hot?" "Don't you get stinky?
I wore a modern linen shirt (thrifted) for 24 hours recently and there was zero stank. I'm a sweaty person, and I didn't feel gross! Linen is the gods gift for skin and stinkyness.
@@NotYourNhaama Yes and then there you are at some event in your medieval dress and a sweaty person in a synthetic sort of nylon dress covered in chemicals to smell like the wild freshness of spring flowers tells you that medieval people stank ;)
@@fakehistoryhunter yupppppp!
Switched to wool sweaters last year when replacing old sweaters and, wow, what a difference. I can wear the lightweight ones in the early days of summer, don't have to wash them constantly, and they never smell bad.
As someone who spent summers somewhere burning up to 45-50 Celsius in Eastern Europe and now living in Thailand, I can certainly say that shorts and tank tops are not suitable for REALLY hot weather! You want to hide your skin from the sun and absorb all moisture in your clothes. People were not dumb back then as Bernadette often says ❤
Totally agree, a long lose falling skirt isolates and keeps your legs cool and dry where shorts and sun exposure not only burn them, but alao heat them up. Covering up cools!
I mean I wouldn't really agree with that. I live in a very humid climate. Humidity doesn't evaporate like in the dryer.
There's actually a difference in how you dress. For instance, lighter clothes in color are better suited in humid climates, whereas darker colors are actually more suited in drier climates. This is because sweat is beneficial in drier climates. Whereas humid climates you just end up very sticky.
This is why swamp coolers work really well in dry climates. Because they create humidity. If you live in a dry climate, it benefits to create humidity. So for instance, homes in parts of the Middle East actually have courtyards with pools or fountains or both because they want to create a humid environment to keep it cool.
And that wouldn't be historically accurate for humid climates. Humid climates historically have less clothing not more. There's a reason why tropical environments if you ever notice they wear hardly nothing, In tribal societies.
In a human climate, your best to wear something that can dry your sweat off quickly. Like wearing a cool wick material.
But again they would not have had that available throughout most of human history, but that would be the best option, But that's why a lot of outdoor modern-day clothes have a cool wick and that works very well for humid climates.
* Also, it depends on the material you're using, like I wouldn't recommend jean shorts. Use cotton and khakis. * From a person who lives in the USA deep South without air conditioning in the house or in a car. Cheers
yes! I live in central California and we reach 115+ Fahrenheit (46+ C) for months each year (and its a dry climate, which yes makes a difference). I have grown up wearing tank tops and it has caused so much problems. The older and more sun-sensitive I get (and the hotter the world around me gets), the more I switch to covered, especially by cottons or linens. And head covered, either by my babushkas or by hats!
Absolutely! When I was still working in field archaeology, I had colleagues that covered up completely in the summer, up to and including gloves in one case, and that was not only to save on sunscreen. It genuinely was easier to deal with the heat that way - and to this day, I´ll wear a cotton blouse above my shirts or tops, when I go out on a really hot and sunny day.
@@milliedragon4418 I live in the subtropics (humid as hell) and I have hyperhidrosis (excessive sweating) and your points are spot on. I doubt I'd survive in the tropics long enough to even venture out in a long sleeve!
The venn diagram of people who watch your channel and people who have a problem with hairy lady legs is just two separate circles.
To be fair, I am also obsessed with handknitted socks. I don't know if Bernadette's are (I suspect not), but they're all in tune with the aesthetic.
I couldn't agree more 👍
Agreed! I am also in the shaving legs maybe once a year if necessary club and I appreciate seeing the representation if anything!
Sometime around 2015 I stopped shaving my legs and nothing bad happened and then a few years ago I stopped shaving my pits and nothing bad happened and so like idk man. Like if you enjoy the feel of clean-shaven you do you, but if you're doing it because someone said you had to once and you're not feeling so jazzed about it... join the hairy legs club is all I'm saying
@@firiel2366 I've never shaved my legs. It's too much of a hassle.
Shoutout to African & Caribbean cultures wearing loose and flowy garments, they know what's up to stay cool!
And the Indigenous American cultures of the tropical and subtropical regions!
the other thing i’m surprised you didn’t mention cuz it was also in that clip at the end: hats and sunhats!!! it helps so much in blocking the sun from your face but also your shoulders and chest!
And then you can incorporate hatpins!! 🗡️
Yes! The Mary Poppins hat! But probably a black straw boater with ribbon is more her daily style. :)
We should bring hat wear back, especially in the summer for the children, women; and some men. I know for a fact my boyfriend does not like wearing them because "my head feels off and itchy when I have something on it. I will never wear hats" he explained and I respect his decision. But sometimes wearing a hat, or non-wearers can have an umbrella to cover up from the sun's rays.
I own sets of 12 different hats for summer and 12 winter hats. Also, my whole collection of hat pins, vintage blouse pins, and brooches are great to give it some colour, and bling. But after doing a poll amongst friends and outside circle, I know now not everyone enjoys wearing them. We should be okay with that. As long as they have sunscreen on or a summer umbrella.
🙂 👒❤🧡💙💚
I have a pet theory that it's why we seem to have so much more skin cancer now vs. in the past, even though we now have sunscreen. In the past people wore hats (and covered up more in general).
Absolutely agree to all of this comment thread!! I am 33 now and bought my first hat this year. I just LOVED the looks of it. I then wasn't brave enough to wear it for a couple of months, even though I really liked it on me. When I was travelling this year I took it with me and wore it where no one knew me. And since then, I have been wearing it basically all the time, also at home, now. It's just the best and it looks so cool AND it doesn't only block out the sun, but also the occasional rain shower :) I highly recommend getting a hat if you're sunburning easily like me!
It's worth noting that older, historical linen fabric was often a lot thicker and just different than modern. We associate linen with a light gauze that wrinkles easily, while older linen was compact and doesn't need ironing when hung to dry in the sun. Historical linen is a completely different experience, it keeps you FRESH like AC fresh for real, and it actually keeps you warm in the winter too. It's magical
any reccs on where to buy some? Or is that a "we stopped growing/processing it that way" thing?
The biggest problem with linen nowadays is that the fibres are cut shorter to make it possible to process on equipment made for cotton, which means that the threads are weaker and slubbier. I don’t doubt that this also explains why modern linen has a tendency to wrinkle so much.
@@ariadne0w1
It’s both a “we stopped growing those strains of flax” thing *and* a “we stopped processing the linen the way it was historically” thing, unfortunately.
@@dianacanzi313
Air drying is the default where I live, and there are definitely tricks that you can do to the wet clothes right before hanging them up to make them less wrinkly when they dry. And the linen I’m used to is “typical shirt-weight” fabric, and not so sheer that the embroidery on the shirts is disproportionately thick despite being whitework and therefore not too flat.
@@ragnkja I heard that centrifuguing linen "breaks" the fibres, which lets it wrinkle even more. When I wash my linen clothing, I use a soft program for sensitive clothing AND turn off the spinning of my Washington mashine. I then squeeze the water out by hand and let it air-dry hanging. I have a few pieces of clothing made out of linen, which last for years now and hardly ever wrinkle!
Yay! I was literally just saying yesterday I needed more cotton and linen and then waxed on about how smart people were from early 20th century and earlier that they wore those materials to stay cool. My kids "ugh...yes, WE KNOW."
There weren't any polyester or other fake fabrics back then. Of course they wore natural fabrics.
I love how your kids are used to the ranting. But hopefully they'll make wise purchases when they get older because they'll hear your voice in their heads. 😊
@@suzannederringer1607 I know, right? I was so confused. 😅 There's nothing smart about it, there was NOTHING ELSE.
Unless the commenter means how smart the people back then were to not wear wool and furs in the summer heat. 🤔
Yeah I make fiber stuff & got a bunch of linen & cotton yarns for next year. :)
Transitioned a couple years Back. Best choice ever Made.
I fully agree about leather vs “vegan.” I hate the term vegan for fake leather products. As long as there is meat production we will have animal hides. Are the hides to be burned or tossed in a landfill? Better to use them to make useful, long-wearing and beautiful items that will biodegrade when they are finally no longer usable.
As a vegan I wouldn‘t mind stopping meat prduction. That would be no problem at all. 😂
Also, you don't really think that mass meat production and high quality expensive leather come from the same animal. 😅
If every part of the animals were actually used to the fullest I'd agree, but modern factory farming likes to keep one type or animal for exactly one type of thing. Dairy cows aren't the same as cows kept for meat, chickens are also either 'optimised' for laying eggs or for meat, and many parts that people used to eat are largely regarded as gross these days. I could imagine the same applying to leather.
I live in Germany, and while there is a lot of marketing for locally produced food producs, and I know a lot of local farms (both animal and otherwise), I can't remember seeing 'local leather' anywhere. Local shoe makers, yes, but only referring to the design/sewing process. So either all the skins are shipped off to be tanned, or ground up for dog food or something, or indeed, tossed away.
"Vegan" just means "without animal products", not necessarily "sustainable", just like it doesn't have to mean "healthy" ;) A lot of vegetables are sold wrapped in plastic, which imo is even worse than plastic shoes (I've had some that lasted many years and were repairable). Buuuut on paper, plastic wrapped vegetables are still vegan eh.
@@literaturegeek1570Can you find any examples of cows being raised only for their leather? Raising cow is expensive. They need a lot of food, or a lot of land for grass and some supplementary feed depending on the season and how the grass is doing. Leather is expensive, but not that expensive, a lot of the costs when you buy leather are paying for the processing and production. There wouldn't be enough money for the raw hides to be economical to sell if that's all you're selling. Most leather for sale is a byproduct of the meat industry. It wouldn't make sense to selectively breed cows just for leather when meat cows have perfectly good leather already. Beef cows and dairy cows are selectively breed to be different because the two things are mutually exclusive. For meat you want an animal that grows as fast as possible on whatever food or land you have available. For milk you want an animal which will produce as much milk as possible and stay healthy and productive for as many years as possible. After living for many years, the meat will be tough and worth much less to sell. Farmers would sell the meat if there were buyers. Most people in the English-speaking world wouldn't buy dairy meat when they can get young beef so cheaply, but the majority of beef eaten in the world is from former dairy cattle.
@@SomeoneBeginingWithI I find it endearing, to see you talk about land and grass and such things, when we talk about mass-produced animals. That is not the reality for most animals consumed. And dairy cows are not made for longevity either. As soon as their output decreases, they are killed. 😅
I am neither judging anyones use of leather, nor would I claim that animal free "leather" options are better, but the production of almost all leather is not cutesy, artisanal and natural but connected to lot's of suffering, shit working conditions and environmental destruction. And I think it is important to no be blind to that reality.
@@literaturegeek1570 I said "They need a lot of food, *or* a lot of land for grass". I'm aware that there are cows living indoors having food brought to them. They need a lot of food. That feed has a cost, which would not be re-cooped if the only thing you were selling was leather. It would cost more to buy the feed than you would get back in the leather. It would not be economically viable to raise cows only for leather, especially not if you're keeping them indoors. The cost of feed is too high for that. Leather is a byproduct of the meat industry.
Dairy cows are killed once their output decreases. When their output decreases, they need to be replaced, which is expensive. The economic incentive for dairy cattle is to have a high output for as many years as possible, which is multiple years. That's very different from beef cattle who are killed when they've grown big enough to sell which may take less than a year.
Key note about leather sustainability: cows aren't raised and killed to produce leather. Leather hides are sold to tanneries directly from meat production, so it's better for the hides to be used than the alternative.
And yes, leather will last a very long time compared to plastic
I’ve never really had money for expensive fabric clothes but chose quite well made fast fashion and wore it to death (I’m 20 and I still have clothes from when I was 12 because I’m small) but lately I’ve been researching a lot and as awareness to fast fashion seems to grow and sustainable clothes are a bit more available, I got myself a pair of cotton trousers and I must say these difference is insane. I did not expect to feel this much better and cooler wearing them and even my fast fashion clothes were mostly made of like 40%cotton and 60% plastic as summers in Central Europe are a hell lately. So yeah. Fabric choice is VERY important.
I'm with you, 100%. If I'm purchasing fast fashion, I analyze the content and how it's made. I try to make the best choice that fits my wallet at the moment. One day, I'll get things more from slow fashion, small creators but for now, I'll just try to be smart and wear the things I already have. 😊 And hey, polyester fabric is so warm, it's decent for wintertime if it's already in your closet. 🤷♀
Second hand is a lofe saver!!! I got a lot of very good linen pieces through patience and thrifting! Now Idea how old they where when I bought them, but thwy are still holding up no probems 8 years in my pos3ssion and still counting!
I'm young and broke as well and I have found some fabulous items at thrift stores! And you can also find cotton and linen sheets, curtains and table cloths at thrift stores for a few dollars that you can easily make into skirts or basic tops. ❤
Since I concously pay attention to the materials in my clothes and wear natural fibers, I'm not able to wear plastic fibers anymore. My skin just itch like hell.
That's why I don't like when creators on any soc media platform do a shein haul or whatever haul and they are waxing poetic how good the clothes are. Like honey, have you every tried anything but polyester?
I'm from Eastern-Europe, and the summers are hell indeed in the past 5 years or so. I want back my childhood summers :D
I haven't shaved my legs in 12 years, and I don't miss it! Not a single person has said anything to my face about it. The only person to mention it to my husband was his brother. He was so bothered by it he said "when are you going to make your wife shave her legs" to which my husband replied " good luck MAKING her do anything, but you're welcome to go mention it to her" . He never did 😂
Honestly if you and your husband both don't mind, no one should. I tried shaving as a teenager but didn't like cutting myself and having sandpaper legs after just a day or two. There must be a good reason for us as grown-ups to have hair on our legs, if attempts to get rid of it are so annoying. This may sound controversial, or even a bit extreme, but I prefer that my husband finds me attractive when I look like a woman, rather than a 12-year-old girl.
Honestly shaving just murdered my legs. My legs are covered in scars which means my skin is not smooth. You ever tried shaving not-smooth scared skin? Not fun. Just set my legs on fire. No thanks. Other people's beauty standards can get shoved up where the sun don't shine!
It’s not a bad thing to be slightly intimidating… you certainly have to listen to less stupid stuff!
For me it's the opposite. If I don't shave daily, I feel really unconfortable. That's one of the main reasons I stopped waxing, because you have to wait between waxes, so the hair is long enough. I hated that. And I don't care if it's winter, and nobody is going to see me, if there's no medical reason to not shave, I would do it.
Of course, using a good razor is key. Bad razors means irritations, cuts. Never ever use those cheap, disposible ones, that come like a dozen in the bag. Those are instruments of torture.
I can hear the smirk in hubby's voice. He's ready for a popcorn required event. LOL I stopped shaving when I found out that the social norm was a marketing scheme to sell more razors. "Let's make women feel badly about two parts of their bodies so we can triple our profits. Plus, we can make colors which cost more to make but we can charge an exorbitant amount to make up for it."
I am grateful that you shared your heart regarding the whole leather shoes vs. vegan leather shoes. Having bought a vegan leather bag myself, I realize it doesn't last as long as it could along with the reasons you shared, I rather just invest in leather shoes and remember to treat them well, so I won't be buying shoes every single season or year.
I whole heartedly agree, alao vegan leather is plain plastic, that sheds and lands all over nature whete it ends up harming animals anyways as micro plastic.... So its either using natural vegan materials like fabric, of you feel like you cant wear dead animal, the hypocritical choice of plastic that harms indirectly or the way lesser evil of one pair of well sourced leather that lasts a lifetime under good care.
Luckily there are various types of vegan leather nowadays. Admittedly there are some types that are really bad, but others are very durable. I've had my vegan winter boots from "Vegetarian Shoes" for five years and used them daily from October till March. After three years I had to have the heels replaced by a shoemaker, and after 5 years the glue gave up, but the leather was still perfect.
I know there is still the argument with the plastic. But one pair of shoes every 5 years is nothing when I am otherwise minimizing plastic in my daily life. Cattle feces also cause a lot of environmental damage, there are valid studies about this phenomenon.
I don't mean to provoke anyone here, but I think not wanting to wear some animals while feeding other animals with treats and putting them in cute outfits is also a legitimate lifestyle choice that deserves respect.
Before anyone answers to this: please remain calm & objective, we are all adults who are capable of a fair discussion.
I don't think Bernadtte minds a plurality of opinions as long as there is proper conduct and etiquette.
@@PhilosophyOnTheNightbus That is to be understood. Thank you for your input. My concern is that the elites can easily raze the plants we rely on for vegan leather to the ground and burn them to a crisp, and we will be in a lose-lose situation with no clothing. There are also fluctuating weather conditions to consider as well.
Yeah-I have a pair of black leather horseback riding boots that I've ended up just using as day to day wear because they're so comfortable, and they haven't broken down at all after 7 years. The only thing that's happened is that the leather's broken in a bit and molded to the shape of my feet. None of the leather horseback riding boots I've had in my 14 years of riding have deteriorated at all- I just grew out of the previous pairs. In fact, my first pair belonged to the barn I rode at, and they'd been using that same pair for young riders for the last 15-20 years (so think daily use for multiple riders over that timespan). It's genuinely incredible how long good leather boots will last you!
I have vegan leather headphones, the headphones still work but the out layer of the "leather" has become deteriorated. I still use the headphones but I will not wear it outside sadly.
Addendum on 19:55 onward/PSA: layering/covering up is AWESOME for hot and dry climates- less so in hot and humid climates. If we look at the historical clothing, specifically the precolonial clothing, of places like southern India, Indonesia, the Pacific Islands, the American Southeast, and central America, a lot of the clothing is pretty minimal- even in places that cultivated plant fibres. So if you're looking to stay cool in a hot, humid climate, "sun's out, guns out" (and legs and midriff) might be your best option. And if someone tries to give you flack for being "immodest", eat them
No midriff showing for me but here in Florida, yes, legs out for sure. 😅. And I’ve learned loose is better than tight. Even if it’s a tank top. I just feel the sweat dripping in tight clothes. And under boob sweat is no joke here.
Went through the entire Caribbean not showing my legs, midriff or arms. I just wore looser clothes and a hat. You can definitely wear head-to-toe clothes in hot, humid environments.
My go to clothing item for summer is culottes (aka. secret pants) made from linen or linen blends. If you get loose fitting ones, you have all of the air circulation benefits of a skirt without the chafing or risk of wardrobe malfunctions. They are also long enough that you can get away with not constantly shaving your legs. If you want to make your own, I like McCall's M8260 (it has huge pockets), though if you are on the shorter side like me, you will definitely need to shorten the pattern so you don't get caught on your pants every time you climb stairs.
I love that pattern! Made mine tea length out of sage linen. Post-menopausal so ya can't really tell if there is hair on my legs. Also, I don't care any more.
I sense a palazzo pant enthusiast. I had a pair of cotton knit shorts with a short front zipper and three small buttons at the yoke that looked very close to this pattern. I loved them to their death. All loose and flowy from the yoke was perfect for summers. Mom thought they were scandalous in a high wind. LMBO
Recollections makes a good split skirt. Indie company in Michigan.
I feel that comment about tripping on your pants! I’m 5’ tall. 😂
Watched on Nebula, but wanted to comment. I'm in a hot and humid area, half-Pakistani, and raised Muslim. This has brought me to two observations. One is that if I want to look to historical fashion for inspiration I need to keep climate differences in mind. Summer layering doesn't work the same way when the air is wet. Looking at fashion outside the UK (and Europe generally), South Asia has some really humid areas and the clothing has a lot of loose-fitting cotton garments. The other observation is that if you wear anything long enough, your body gets used to it. My sister wears sweaters all year long, and gets cold a lot easier than the rest of us. I've seen people in t-shirts feel the need to push their sleeves to the shoulder from the heat and Muslim women who wear long sleeves and hijabs all summer long. There's a limit to it, but bodies definitely adjust. I won't be forcing that on myself, but if anyone feels like trying to layer linens or long sleeves, it's possible to get used to it.
Also, the Hadisic women etc, always are wearing layers too, and NY (both the city and the state) can get really hot in the summer months. I've been wearing a chemise, blouse and a skirt (mainly cotton and bamboo derived fabrics) for almost an entire year now.
I, from Minnesota (stereotypically cold), was once talking with a woman who lived near Death Valley (stereotypically hot) and we both wound up asking each other how we could stand to live there in those extreme temperatures.
I'm probably not the only person to watch both costube people and things like the native habitat project, but it's also really important to note the effect groundcover has on temperature. Native habitat project did a video where he showed the temperature difference between asphalt, a wooded area, and a grassland/prairie (which is a more native habitat where he is in AL than dense woods), and the grassland had the lowest temps. Which reminded me a lot of Abby Cox's video where she showed it was possible to stay cooler in historical clothing. I find that link between the physical environment and human behavior so cool! Even though it is perhaps very logical.
So along with our clothing and buying choices, we may be able to make summers more bearable by advocating for more creative green spaces like greenways, parkways, and green roofs. So like how we have historically-inspired dress with some modern sensibilities, we could have environmental history-inspired cities :)
Love this so much!
I love this and whole heartedly agree! Absolutely we should advocate for this in public spaces. For those of us with yards, we can all start now by ditching our lawns and replacing them with native plants appropriate to our bioregions. My yard is like this and it's amazing how much cooler it is than surrounding areas, even though they have bigger shade trees than I do. It also made a world of difference when wildfire smoke was an issue. I couldn't breathe elsewhere in my neighborhood without my nose, eyes and throat burning. But in my yard, I could breathe easily and the air was visibly clearer. Plus, it's really amazing being more closely connected with all the flora, fauna and natural cycles that have been part of the history of this place for ages. Living history at it's finest.
I work at a preschool and I discovered there is one corner of the playground that is several degrees cooler than the rest. There is a house behind us that has 3 huge trees in their backyard who's branches come close to our fence. The wind blowing through those leaves is cooler than the air coming in over the hot asphalt parking lot on the other side of the playground. It is so tangible even my 2 year old students can feel it and congregate in that corner even when it doesn't have full shade, unlike the fully shaded parts which are over rubberized safety floors under the plastic, metal-framed play structures.
@rebeccat715 -- This! So much truth. Used to work in a conservation district job, and one of the training modules we did during Covid lockdown was about the difference in temperature in city areas without the shading effects of trees and other greenery. Without them, all those unbroken lengths of asphalt is basically like the city roads are limbs wearing tight black pleather jackets and leggins, attracting (and retaining) all of that scorching heat and raising the ambient air temperature.
Yes!! There's some groups who are doing great work too of increased tree cover for more shade and better flood mitigation. Even if there's not enough area for a park, a few strategically placed trees can have a significant impact on people, especially near places like bus stops if there isn't other cover provided
I have had to do this for many years now, as I live in Australia and have skin cancer issues. It is so good to hear someone else point out that synthetics, including vegan leather, are plastics! I have people ask me if I’m hot - I’m much cooler than most people I work with, because all my clothes are loose linen and cotton, and I’m completely covered, so no sun exposure on skin. And the reduced washing is definitely a bonus!
Linen and cotton are great for heat but not good for uv rays filtering. Specially when they are light colors. There are some things you may do like buying products that you wash your clothes with and help rising the uv protection. In my case I bought a uv 50 upf cover for my shoulders and arms that I layer.
Take care!
Definitely grain of salt here, bc I have zero notion whether my things are synthetic, or a cotton blend of some kind. BUT! Living in the southeastern USA, I've suffered through so many summers in the wrong clothes, and of all places I learned better from DragonCon. That convention takes place in August, in Atlanta Georgia, also known as the Armpit of Hell (humid, hot, AND closed-in areas so no breeze to be found, it's awful).
But the secret I learned was that layers ARE better, which feels so counter-intuitive. But even with cotton blend, a layer right against the skin helps SO MUCH with heat. For all the reasons Bernadette explains, but I wanted to mention that this WILL work with cheap stuff too if that's all you have available to you. All my "foundation" shirts were bargain-basement, on clearance things in a Walmart, so not exactly great quality. But they've saved me from heat exhaustion and they've lasted years, so I'm not unhappy with them. My point mainly is: try out what you already have, too! Anything you don't have to shell out for is also good for the environment and sustainability!
Thanks, interesting point!!
Very nice to see Miss Banner's hair down for a bit. It's lovely when up, but really quite stunning when worn loose.
Learned about layering as a child, as mother's father was a mason who worked, in summer in Arkansas and South Texas, in long-sleeved cotton flannel shirts and denim. I asked him why he wore long sleeves and wasn't it horrible in the humidity? He told me the long sleeves were to protect him from both the sun and the brick dust. He always wore undershirts and explained that if the shirt got sweaty, just moving around created a breeze, which was cooling. Yes, I'm soft, because I could never.
When I was breastfeeding (a hot and sweaty pursuit in summer), I’d do similar, a vest with a loose shirt or t-shirt over the top for the breeze and privacy.
Stories like these that teleport me to another part of the world I have yet to see are one of the reasons why I LOVE reading the comment section
if you havent done it already, i would love a video on how you take care of your leather shoes. They always look so well taken care of.
Yes! I want to invest in nice shoes but I have ruined the birks I own after only a few years so I don't want to invest in shoes and not know how to take care of them.
Maybe a discussion on recognizing differences in leather and what products/procedures are more appropriate for each?
I can’t imagine the care for her cow leather satchel is the same as for kid gloves.
There's already plenty of youtube videos about it if you're curious! Even entire channels dedicated to how to properly care for leather. But I agree anyway, I think Bernadette would be very thorough, plus she'd give a historical perspective which would be interesting.
You have to polish your leather shoes. Polishing the shoes keeps the leather supple.@@faeryangelstar
I thought she did.
Maybe I’m thinking of Rajiv’s.
I have to wear compression tights and it’s been amazing how much more comfortable I am in the summer in my skirts. I hope everyone finds the hot-weather clothes of their dreams.
I have compression over-the-knee socks, but not tights. Do you have a recommendation?
@@pioneercynthia1 get the best fitting socks you can. I used to wear jeans all summer, so anything is better really.
One thing that I never see anyone to mention, but it´s crutial - Linen is ANTIBACTERIAL. So even if you sweat, you won´t smell, cause that fabric doesn´t allow bacteria to do their thing. Cotton has also antibacterial factor, but less. So, even if people wear sheer, breathable polyester, they would smell in it.
Bamboo is antibacterial as well, and awesome for towels that stay fresh
This is so true! After half a day in my cotton top it would stink. Now I only wear shifts closest to my body. I have to switch my thin cotton shift after a day, but my linnen shifts can be worn for several days unless I'm sick or super stressed. I didn't understand the "I can smell the fear on you" until I switched to linnen, the stank of bacteria on cotton masked it lol.
The new marketing scheme for poly is that it's breathable. Whatever happened to legal ramifications for truth in advertising?
I used to have a favorite brand of moisture-wicking socks. Working in restaurant at the time meant my feet were imprisoned in plastic for hours while being physically active. I loved them, but eventually had to buy replacements as they wore out.
I think they were trying to save a bit of money, and let's just say I immediately noticed the difference when I took off my gross shoes at the end of my shift. 🤢
So thankful I found a small US based manufacturer that makes cotton work socks. They don't seem interested in cutting corners after being a customer for over 5 years.
@@blazertundrawho are they? It's so hard to find all cotton socks!
I love linen. Its my favorite... The more you wear it and wash it, the softer it gets.
Bernadette Banner: Influencing in the best possible way since 2018
I love the encouragement of Natural fibers!
(I simply cannot fathom how people can stand wearing polyester and nylon in the heat of summer. Or anytime, actually.)
Also, I am 100% with you on the natural leather shoes! I have a pair of victorian style boots that have been going strong (once they were resoled) since the late 1980s!
(Although, in all honesty, I haven't worn them regularly in the past 22 years. But I could!)
Yes! We NEED a second video of just the Rants!
A director’s cut 👍
Excellent! And yes, more fashion rants please! Me, I'm male and in, let's say, financially challenged circumstances, so what to do about shoes? Educate one's eye! I've done so, and on a walk through our local Salvation Army about 22 years ago, I spotted an amazing pair of mens' dress shoes of the highest quality. I bought them for five bucks, then took them to be re-heeled, at which point the cobbler did a double take: 'Do you know that when these were new, they'd have been about five hundred dollars?!" They came from a small shoe factory in my town, in the 1940's. I've since had the heels and once the soles replaced, but take careful care of these shoes. They are incredibly comfortable, not only the design but they're leather lined, so my feet don't sweat. And to think someone had these, now I have them, and when I'm gone, they'll go out into the world so someone else can wear them with the pleasure I do! Style has little to do with money!
Bit of an odd comment to leave, but bare with me please...
I first came across your channel back during the dark times of the medical confinement era *ahem* and as I lived with my mum, often watched you with her. Im not a clothes making perosn, i watch yoh simply because i enjoy seeing others make things in fields im not qualified in. My mum was a seamstress a long time ago, and she got a lot of pleasure and interest from watching the things you did. Sadly I lost her just before Christmas last year, but with this video popping up on my feed, I wanted to stop and say, thank you for the enthusiasm, charm and wonder you bring with your videos.
Please keep up the amazing content, but most of all, keep on being you!
I love this. So sorry for your loss. Happy for your memories.
As someone who has worked outside in landscaping, and done labor in both a uniform and my own clothes, she's 100% on the money for practical summer clothes. There comes a point in the season where you have to start putting clothes back on because of the sun! And fabric is so important. One of my jobs required Dickies uniform pants and it was hell. A loose white half sleeve is the perfect top for summer labor IMO, paired with a big hat.
Thank you for the shout-out to real leathers! If you take care of them, they take care of you. My everyday backpack for university, which still comes with me on every trip now, is probably almost twenty years old, and conditioning it, getting rivets repaired over the years when a couple popped, has kept it working like new.
As a vegetarian, I buy secondhand leather - it already exists, it lasts a long time, and if you care for it properly it will continue to serve you well 💖 I understand the principle of vegan leather, but I can't get behind the materials and processes that create vegan leather goods for the same reasons you stated ✨
Exactly!!!
If you have a wool overlayer, like a pinafore dress. If you wear it with a linen or cotton underlayer like a chemise you can wet the underlayer around your legs and the wool will trap your legs in a wonderful cold mist. Thats how the medieval/viking reenactiors do it for hot summer days in Sweden. And it is definitely historically accurate as that is 100% what happens to your medieval shift when you walk in the dewy grass in the morning.
Living somewhere that it is typically 90%+ humidity during July & August, it makes me feel slimy (yet somehow sticky at the same time) just thinking about that! 🤣
How interesting, thanks for sharing!
Before I get into the video too far.
Just walked down to my local coffee shop. It’s hot out.
Me and roommate both brought parasols.
Keeping the sun *off* of you eliminates a little bit of heat no matter what you’re wearing, and helps keep you safer from the sun/sunburn etc.
Okay! Back to the show!
I just watched a video about awnings on windows having the same effect 😂 shading the sun works the best for keeping cool ✓
I bring umbrellas with hook handles to the renn faire now. I hook it on my arm when I'm inside a tent and pop it up as soon as I go out. I also have fallen in love with wide-brimmed hats. I roast easily in the sun and I wilt if left out for too long. Hats and parasols are lifesavers!
I bought a pair of classic black leather cowboy boots when I was 27. I am now 59 and they are still beautiful. They’ve had one pair of new soles, and I polish them regularly, but otherwise they have been well loved and often worn. To me, they were a sustainable purchase. They were made once, shipped once, and can be maintained and repaired.
I visited Galveston Island Texas and toured mansions that were built around 1900. The mansions had a central entry that reached from ground level to the roof. When residents opened louvers in the roof, and opened windows on the ground floor it created a chimney, resulting in a nice breeze. The windows reached from ground level and were tall enough to walk through. Covered porches provided shade.
But still the wealthy tended to leave for the summer to visit cooler places. Even with the windows open and the vertical breeze, when it is 95 and gulf humid, Galveston is just awfully hot.
This is so useful. I'm not one normally for historical fashion, however, being a mosquito magnet who lives in the south, the notion of being able to wear (generally) long clothes without sweltering is a welcome one. I only learned about fast fashion recently, although I've always been rather thrifty, so I am pleased to see that a lot of my closet (which I have tended to diligently over the years) already works splendidly for this! Thank you very much for the guide!!!
Followup: I am also really glad to hear someone bringing up how unsustainable vegan leather is. I get it, leather is expensive and we definitely consume more than we should, however, finding genuine leather/suede shoes thrifted is, in my opinion, a great way to mitigate that. Look for well-made shoes that are repairable and as said, can be taken care of for a lifetime. I just got these gorgeous olive-colored-suede shoes re-heeled a couple months ago. Another perk of thrifting shoes: Usually they're made better than what you'll find on mass-market now!!!
I always save to buy the best quality shoes I can afford and then re-heel and re-sole. I had a pair of European made boots that my mom splurged on my Freshman year of high school for me that I wore for 25 years! My biggest problem was always my foot size 11 US, but now more young girls have larger feet so it is a little easier
@@sharonmulloy2181 still, 25 years is amazing!!! Also, that's such a wonderful and unique story. I hope you get to carry your mother's gift with you for a long time to come.
I love how you explain the fast fashion you have and the changes you made to historical dress. I am a new historical dresser and I have like a wardrobe that 70% modern 30% historical and you’re such an inspiration.
Anybody got plus size historical recommendations? Shops or styles?
Seconding the ask for plus-size resources!
I am plus sized. Honestly I got back into sewing because it can be super hard to find anything suitable and then most of it is poly or poly blends. Never looked back. I have way fewer clothes but what I do have fits and I love to wear. Winner winner chicken dinner!
Thirding the need for plus size!
4th...
Historically inspired - Haus Dahlia! Based in LDN, the designer and founder is plus sized herself and only does made to measure :)
I totally agree with your stance on leather and fashion sustainability! Its so cool that you don't pretend that this isn't a reality, I appreciate that you actually like address it and let us know what you think, very cool of you :)
I will say, in the faux leather vs real weather debate, it is so so important to take care of your genuine leather items. If you buy cheaply made real leather and do not take care of it, it can fall apart nearly as fast as faux leather.
On another note, I know the purpose of this video is not to buy anything, but I have been searching for a nice belt that suits my style and the ring belt is perfect! Thank you for this video!
I'm definitely an advocate for genuine leather articles, particularly for items like belts and shoes which see a LOT of wear and tear. They are also items that can be repaired or salvaged in one way or another, which means the life of genuine leather goods can be extended well beyond cloth or petroleum derived alternatives.
Super agree about leather. Between my best friend being Native and both of us doing medieval reenactment, leather is absolutely superior. I'm so glad I only wear my linen and cotton medieval clothes in summer here in the western US, because going outside in this heat would be awful otherwise. Keep preaching!
Arguably leather is more environmentally friendly as it is a by-product of the meat industry, it is easily repairable, and will last forever if you take care of it. Lastly, it is very versatile, available in a variety of finishes, colors and weights.
I wish more people would bring this up! I spin a lot, and economically, wool and leather are byproducts of the meat industry. They are underutilized, and a fair amount of the raw material goes to waste for lack of market. Of course there are exceptions, and it varies geographically, but still. It’s way less wasteful to use them.
Wool is NOT a byproduct of the meat industry. Wool would exist with or without meat. Wool does not require the killing of animals.
leather production is horrible for the environment. You should look at what tanneries do. Plus where they are produced in the world and how it pollutes waterways.
@@marley7659 All materials are bad for the environment at their current rate of overconsumption, but given the length of time a leather product will last versus a plastic-based product, leather is far and away the more ecologically friendly option
@@marley7659 This is very similar to the argument of electric vs fossil fuels for vehicles. Manufacturing an electric car is not good for the environment, however, in the long term, the energy burned is far far less damaging than a car powered on gasoline. If you can buy a used electric vehicle that's best, but even if you MUST buy a new car, it's still better to buy an electric one. It is still better in the long run to purchase something made of leather, because plastic does not decompose when it becomes trash, and the process of making plastic is still more damaging, and the plastic clothing is still less durable and will need to be replaced more. This is about harm reduction, not harm elimination which may not be possible.
These tips are SO important for something like the renaissance faire where you want to get that historical look but not get heatstroke. My friends and I went last year and I was the only one wearing all cotton, and I was the only one that didn’t overheat. I’m trying to make them some cotton 18th century style skirts for this year’s renfaire so that doesn’t happen again!
From what I saw and read on youtube and the comment sections about the topic of natural fibers (plant fibers, wool...) it was often mentioned, one reason people nowadays might be reluctant to switch back to those fibers, is because they think it's too complicated and timeconsuming to care for. We practically lost the knowledge how to wash and care for our clothes correctly, since we can just toss everything in the washing machine. Kinda like most folks don't remember 15 different phone numbers anymore since our mobiles save them anyways.
Echoing all the other comments praising the section about ethical leather consumption. I have the same views on it. This last Christmas, I asked my family for an everyone-chips-in gift of a genuine leather purse from a small craftswoman on Etsy, because I wanted something that would last for many years. I am so in love with my bag and even more in love with the fact that it is going to be with me for *so long* (provided I care for it appropriately).
Really appreciate the balanced take on leather, nothing beats genuine leather so far, as much as many of us want long term alternatives.
Thanks for these wonderful ideas! Your clothes mixed with the purchased items are wonderful. I will just say this: Silk! I've worn many many thin and lightweight silk tops and bottoms in my lifetime specifically to keep cool, none of it tight or fussy, just breezy and light layers in heat and even more in the cold. The fiber comes right out of the worm's body in a spiral, thus right away trapping air.. the air barrier isn't just a heat trap, it's' a cooling "trap' as well. I think though, discouraging the overuse of silk (like we saw some years back) is useful. But it truly is a wonderful material, and natural as well. Cheers and again, love your style and your work!
It depends entirely on the weave of the silk. I would not want to wear a silk taffeta or satin in the heat, but a plainwoven raw silk should be far more breathable.
annual leg shave is so real and honestly i dont even shave all the way and just trim bc the hairs get too long that it starts to bother me in sensory related ways and thats the only reason i ever even bother so it's like a haircut but for my legs lol
I beg! please do a winter version of this video… my office is so cold 🥶 🙏
That first outfit with the full, natural-fiber blouse and long, full skirts also looks like high-fashion styles of the mid-1970s during the Soft Look/Big Look period of 1974 to 1978, especially stuff from Lagerfeld for Chloe in 1977. High-fashion clothes in that style from back then were oversized and in natural fibers with full dirndl skirts, often tiered, often layered like yours, plus full blouses in similar fabrics. Earthtones and tiny floral prints were common for them, and many of them were inspired by 19th century undergarments, particularly the skirts.
Thank you for shouting out renn faires! This is my second year working up in Bristol, and it's quite literally the happiest place on earth. It's work, of course, but there's a wonderful sense of community and belonging. When you buy from the renn faire, you are keeping these lovely nomadic people creating and moving on their merry way!
And to those with the budget looking for full-on forever garments -- please come to the renn faire! Come early in the season, find something you love, save up for it, and come toward the end of the season to grab it. It will have been made by a person you can probably chat with (or who at least knows them), and if you need something repaired, many shops are happy to help. Please support your nearest renaissance faire!
the biggest thing i love about modernizing historical fashion is that you can have full coverage outfits to protect your skin from the sun or hide your unshaven legs (lol) or for religious purposes (i literally JUST got to the part of the video where you say this) or for whatever other reason so yea!
Or for all the above reasons :)
I love not having to use sun screen - another way to avoid waste and microplastics!
My current clothing assessment is "Can I compost it?" I'm even reconsidering my usual polyester thread.
Tee's skirt is rather fabulous.
Your video on the theft of your renaissance dress was my introduction to fast fashion. I had never heard of it before and was woefully ignorant of many of the topics that you discussed then. Thank you for continuing to advocate and educate on the venn diagram of history, fashion, industry, ethics…
Perhaps a video on care and laundering clothes so the last as long as possible? I seem to inexplicably destroy clothes.
Yes! Specifically beginner-friendly methods easily and affordably available in the 21st century. Historically accurate laundry routines don't work in our modern setting, sadly. But I'd really be interested in learning how to preserve my clothes - spot and stain treatments, mending, how to tell if something needs to be washed, how to refresh and store what doesn't need to be washed yet, how to know which clothes need a gentle cool wash and which ones need a thorough hot wash etc.
From my understanding, in general, cool to warm water on gentle cycle. Also, people tend to be heavy handed when using their detergent as well as their fabric softener; less is more in this case, unless you've completely soiled it.
If possible, try to line dry. If you have the space you can even line dry inside. If that's not possible use the energy savings/delicate option on your dryer, but just know it'll take longer to dry this way.
The timing! I realised I needed another breezy skirt, couldn't afford the better brands so got some UK made linen on sale instead and I'm sewing my own. It's a process as I have no sewing machine and my hands aren't great thanks to fibromyalgia but I've just got the waistband and hem left now!
Don't forget HATS.Desert dweller here, we do field trials completely covered, gloves and all. It keeps you cooler to wear loose cotton to keep the sun off your skin. Get a good wide brimmed breathable hat and enjoy not getting a sun burn or heat stroke.
Or a sturdy parasol/umbrella. Makes you degrees cooler under it.
Bernadette, you inspired me to make and tailor my own clothes and I haven't bought any fast fashion in a few years now, I only thrift and buy from small businesses now and I've most recently made an adjustable skirt that fits with the dress code of my work and it has pockets! I want to make sure you know you've inspired someone, and you have no idea what you mean to me, I really love you and want to be like you when I grow up. I also made sure to make that skirt out of a linen cotton blend because it's been 40 degrees for the past few weeks here and it has kept me cool!
If anyone want's to recreate their own ring belt, it's pretty much the easiest belt to make, most good leather suppliers can supply natural veg tan leather as a strip in a variety of widths and lengths all you need is a suitably long strip (typically 1.25 inches wide) with a suitable ring (typically 2 inches in diameter) you can sew the loop to hold the ring in place by hand or rivet it, stain the leather any colour you want or some suppliers will sell you pre stained belt blanks
Bernadette Banner and the Sam Vime boots should be the title of your cottage core adventurer story 😂
The Sam Vines Theory of vegan boots!
Well, sometimes you need to know where you are by feeling the street's cobblestones through your cheap boots😅
Same world but I just kept thinking Granny Weatherwax socks in the video (maybe more Nanny ogg?).
haha I immediately thought of the Sam Vimes boots theory when she started talking leather vs. faux/vegan leather-- one lasting while the other is replaced many times over in the same span applies for economics AND sustainability!
@@ceciliakeller957 Thank you for finally spelling his name right. 😅
Genuine, well cared-for leather boots lasts forever. I bought leather riding boots about ten years ago and have worn them at least twice a week since, in a dirty environment where they're not handled gently. And they still look amazing after a little wash and shine.
Fun fact as Bernadette now lives in UK. If you throw away your old unusable shoes they probably won't go in a landfill but would most likely go to Sweden. 😅 We have a shortage of burnsble trash so UK pay us to take theirs and than we burn it up to make electricity and heat for housing. We have carbon dioxide filters amd high pressure thingys as well so it is fairly clean and much better then burning coal and oil.
I was litterally just making a linen 1950 dress for this heat. Linen and cotton for the win!! Thanks bernadette ❤❤
Tee's skirt fabric really looks like a "tissu provencal rayé" (a traditionnal fabric from the south-east of France, still produced today)
Thank you for this!!! I’ve been working on incorporating natural fiber pieces into my wardrobe. On a separate note, rock those historically accurate legs! I am blessed with lighter body hair but do not shave. It took my husband a minute to adjust to the change but once I quit apologizing for not shaving, it was liberating. And, I have more time and money to do other things and don’t have to worry about nicking myself with non plastic razors or feel guilty about consuming and throwing away more plastics. That’s how I practice sustainability, free the body hairs!
I can’t remember if it’s this video or a different one, but I’m so thankful you called out Jobear boots, I’m obsessed with the shoes I bought from Joanna. Thank you for the rec!💗🙏
My historical outfit of choice for our 100 degree Farenheit months (July to October) is the Muumuu. It was developed around 1820 in the Hawaiian islands by colonizers. I have several vintage patterns, and there are authentic traditional patterns available. I make them out of bright cottons, and it's something I can wear all day. I also find them occasionally in thrift stores, and keep a rack of them on hand for the summer.
Regarding the color of fabrics: I found an article (quick google search) which reported that dark fabrics don't actually make you hotter in the sun, and the temperature-transferrence difference between light and dark is negligible. So if you want to go for historical inspiration then light fabrics are the way to go bc that was the received wisdom, but if you want to wear dark colors in summer, it seems to be fine!
Can agree! My wardrobe is 95% black but with these tips shared in this video it's not bad. I mean in the heat everything is going to be hot. I do live in Finland and the max temperature is 30 °C so I haven't worn my wardrobe in extreme heat.
One of my grandmothers who lived in roughly mediteranian climate would agree. We had to visit her as children and she was always wearing a long black skirt in full summer sun to keep the heat away amd work in the field.
Thank you for saying this! I didn’t know, and I don’t love white
If the clothes are sufficiently loose-fitting, the improved circulation of dark fabric more than makes up for the additional heat absorption.
Would love to see the menswear version! Unfortunately a lot of menswear is more form-fitting in the victorian era. I've been leaning into big viking pants haha.
Viking baggies are the BEST!! There's a lot of viking guys in my SCA group, and they're always comfortable in those pants. Warm in the winter, breezy in fights and the summer, worn wrapped up for more warmth or to not catch brambles, worn loose to catch the wind, they are just bonkers versatile.
Zach Pinsent of Pinsent Tailoring has a wonderful GRWM for summer! Must have been last summer or the one before? Similar points naturally, but menswear. Love his channel.
…although now I just went to look for it and can’t find it. Perhaps it was his instagram. Darn. Excellent content either way!
A linen tunic and sandals! :D
I'm a woman, but I ride a bike for getting around and I do a lot of garden work. When I wear fine and gauzy clothes, I always am afraid of damaging them, and long skirts are just too much of a hassle on the bike.
That's why my favourite period to look for for historybounding is Early Medieval Menswear and also antique influences.
I enjoyed this so much.Our economy has been consumerism gone wild for entirely too long. Its roots are, I think, a reaction to the uber frugality instilled in those who lived through the Great Depression. I know my grandmother expressed love by handing her granddaughters cash and sending us to the mall to shop. Granted, she was a bit baffled when I came back with books instead of some pretty dress or shoes or...LOL! Other grandmothers used food as I love you. No wonder my generation are such loons. I simply love your entire attitude toward purchases and sustainability. Quality over quantity. Avoiding adding to the landfills. I hope you inspire several generations to embrace the richness of the path you have chosen.
My goal is to avoid synthetic fibers as much as possible while adhering and to a very tight budget. It's more difficult each year as inflation outpaces my disability by far.
If I carefully choose some fast fashion items and wear them regularly for at least six years, then I didn't play the seasonal disposable wardrobe game. I also bought most pieces at a thrift store. There are some exceptions such as my cotton blend stretch chino pants, that I bought for $17 a pair at Walmart, five years ago. They stood up to bleach, are comfortable and very rugged. They are men's trousers and since I have a rectangular figure, it works perfectly. I wore them for work at the hotel and as casual clothing.
I do love to make my own clothes as it's how I get exactly what I want. As I have a rectangular figure, clothes need quite a bit of adjustment to look and fit well. So sewing them is a great solution. I work some historical pieces into my contemporary geeky/lazy Goth wardrobe.
I plan my clothes rather than impulse buy. It's going to be a year or two before I can go back to work. I must save up to buy the best that I can afford an often comb through mill ends and clearance. My clothes must at least do double duty and be for business professional and casual, using mostly accessories to make the difference. This means that my wardrobe isn't very big.
I will say that I am fan of ponte knits for pencil skirts and as I do my own thing, don't care about trendy. I have a few that I been wearing for over six years and they look great.
I'm am in my later 50s, and I stopped caring about what others thought of my body hair. It's never stopped me from bare legs or sleeveless tops. If someone is offended or squeamish about it, then they need to go get a life.
I have bought items from Walmart and Target that are still good 15 years running and bought indie stuff that costs $ that didn’t last. I work as a teacher, so I tend to buy cotton dresses from Retrolicious when they have sales. I am on the small end of plus size so it is hard to find items that are cheap and work for me. But many stores have cotton dresses in the summer for $20. I can afford this but not the $100-200 indie companies want online. I tried to sew a bodice and it was ok, but I don’t enjoy sewing. :(
@@wildmarjoramdieselpunk6396 we also what is best for our own situations. Sewing is something that takes time to build up in skill. My take on it, the more one believes in themselves, the easier it goes.
I can tell how long something will last by looking at it and the construction as well as fiber content. Means putting a lot back on the racks at retail. Thrift store items usually show how long it will last. I mend my clothes which makes them last far longer.
I don't have more than 5 trousers, 3 jeans, 5 skirts, 5 knit tops, 5 blouses/shirts and 5 dresses. I do own about a dozen each cardigans and blazers. My oldest one, I nabbed from my Dad's closet and it's from the mid 50s.
I've been wearing my split crotch circular drawers under any knee length skirts and dresses, mostly for chafing purposes, but ohmygod. It's the airiest most wonderful option.
"Clothing should be art" yes yes yes!
I have to thank Bernadette for inspiring me to learn how to sew. 4 years on and my summer wardrobe is filled with light weight woven cotton and linen dresses, shirts, skirts and trousers that work so much better to keep me cool in the summer than my previous denim shorts and a singlet outfits. Plus they're so much easier to maintain and mend if damaged
I volunteer at a historical railway museum. We spend a lot of time outdoors in full sun, and most of us wear a cotton underlayer, even with our modern polo shirts. We've found that, while the undershirt absorbs a lot of moisture, the upper layer serves to control the evaporation, preventing sore muscles that come from cooling too quickly. The same layers trap heat on cooler days in late Spring and early Autumn.
I’m a simple person, I see Bernadette romping in a video, I click. Thank you so much for some of your great ideas on how to dress sustainably as well as responsibly (for your body and the environment).
Also, thank you for helping me begin my own journey into sewing, it’s just begun so far but you’ve been a big help in helping me figure out my style and how to make things that I typically don’t see in the world of fast fashion.
I managed to find some 50% linen shorts at a consignment store last week, and it feels like I'm wearing NOTHING. Amazing.
I'm a guy, and can sew somewhat.Always beautiful, and always linen!
Please, share more of your sustainable and small brand wardrobes! This was awesome!!!
Thank you for your speech about leather. Alternatives are available, but they’re not equal yet. Actual leather is amazing in durability.
Bernadette, I admire you from afar. I always wanted to dress in clothes that I loved instead of what made me acceptable to other mothers whose children were friends with mine. They thought I was strange even in 'normal' clothes. But now, no kids and I could do what I want. Pirate shirt of linen, here I come.
No amount of marketing will ever make me believe that garments made of recycled water bottles will wick anything away from me. I'm in North Carolina and couldn't manage even the styles you showed today. Floor length skirts, long sleeves, boots?! I have had no boots since the 1970s. Winter is a better time because we can put on more interesting fabrics and combinations of them, but winter is beginning to escape us too. I struggle to find 100% cotton socks.
I have followed you for a good while now, but today's video really made my day. Not having a lot of happy days over here right now, you know. Thanks for the work you do particularly as it soothes and entertains weary minds.
What is up with the lack of 100% cotton socks? They've all got a bit of elastic or nylon in them now, and it's driving me nuts. I ordered a bunch of 100% wool socks on etsy, which works most of the year where I live, but June through August I just wear sandals if I can get away with it. But, being around livestock and going hiking and camping in the mountains means a lot of the time I'm in boots, really wishing I had natural fiber socks!! Wool is better for you when hiking, it's true (better at keeping your feet dry), but they're always thick, and it would be nice to have the option of wearing thinner socks that aren't partly plastic.
@@horseenthusiast9903 If you want a thin wool sock as thin as cotton socks, they'd have to be knit in a mill, I believe. Knitting thick wool socks can be done by hand. Here just regular cotton crew socks are at best 25% polyester (big brands) and the only all cotton I can find are diabetic socks, which so far have been thick. This wasn't true ten years ago but all my old socks have perished. A little nylon might not be bad. It's possible to only reinforce the heel and toe with nylon, if anyone would provide that.
Hats! Hats are soooo key for cooling the body and keeping skin from being burnt. Also avoiding heat stroke, shading the eyes etc. Straw hats/panama hats etc. Also so many cute hats in the thrift stores.
Thank you for a great video.
I would rate materials as such: polyester 1/10, cotton 4/10, linnen 10/10. The difference between cotton and linnen is greater than the difference between synthetics and cotton in my experience, especially if worn directly to the skin.
I totally agree about layering, and I want to make an ode to wool here. As the outer layer it isolates against the hot sun while letting every little wind gust right through to cool you down. As long as it's old fashion hand-wash only wool. Modern wool is generally super-wash which is a treatment where the fibers are coated in plastic to make them washer maschine safe. That is obviously not very breathable.
I thought the bum pad would be impossible in summer weather, but it holds out the layers from the legs making it airy, so even my poly filled one helps against heat.
As long as the air is moving everything is fine. It's when you go indoors the problem starts... Unless you have AC
As a guy-dude-man-shaped person, I have been adding to my linnen shirts and trousers in the past few years, the vast majority of it second hand. There's even t-shirts out of knit linnen! I prefer linnen over cotton, as it's better at odor mitigation, which is a... thing for sweaty testosterone based humans.
Absolutely LOVE. Going through the "hot flashes" era is killing me and I cannot dress in plastic! Thanks so very much Bernadette!
Plastic can have it's place in cold weather but sweating rivulets under a plastic bag in hot weather is just gross.
@@mala3isity
Plastic is good for keeping rain out, but other than that it’s not that great in the cold, since you don’t want to have sweat trapped close to your skin and then cool down.
@@ragnkja That's true.
Can you maybe do a video on laundry--like how you keep those white clothes clean?
Also, I'm wondering about tropical-weight wool for summer. It doesn't sound very practical, and maybe that's why you didn't mention it. Is it only reserved for times when you have to dress formally in warm weather?
I wear merino all the time in the summer!
How about wool alternatives for those of us who are allergic?
Bernadette did post a video a while ago exploring an old hand-washing laundry process (titled "Ok but how did the Edwardians WASH these dresses?"). I forget whether she also explained her normal modern washing machine process in that video, but regardless, that may be a good place to start. At the very least there's one piece of advice that's still useful today: if your clothing is inclined to be pale yellowish rather than a pure white, a small bit of blue dye can counter that and wind up with cloth that looks bright white.
I love the socks you wore with a couple of your outfits !! They so added to the look you presented and are so, so you! That chemise a la reine dress looked so comfortable and I remember the video where you made it. Perfect to wear on hot SoCal days where it can get into triple digits by Aug & Sept. I'm going to check out Beara and Beara --- I seriously doubt I can afford their products, but I can dream of saving up to buy one of their bags.
I love Tee’s skirt and as a relatively new sewist it looks like something I can make, and make with striped fabric, a personal fav. Unlike a circle skirt I don’t have to worry about stripe direction! Thank you, Tee!
Was literally just chatting with friends the other day about how Japan goes for loose cool full coverage clothing in the summer (I come from somewhere where the opposite is typical) when we were chatting about how to deal with heat in a summer holiday lol
if anyone lives in or has family and regularly visits a truly hot country, they will know that being COVERED is much more preferrable than removing layers. i’m talking when the temperature goes upward of 35+ degrees. that is when you, instead of undressing to release heat, you want to be as covered as possible to PRESERVE your body temperatufe, since the air around you will be hotter. the material and grain of your layers are incredibly important aswell, since being in a polyester bag truly is a nightmare. the clothes in truly hot areas of the world are meant to hold the heat OUT.
an hour and 8 minutes of fashion rants from BB?? Sounds like you got what it takes to do a podcast, mah girl! It doesn't have to be huge, just like, one hour a month or smth. Could even be a Patreon exclusive! :3