IBOSAD Copper Press Tool Update - Leaks Everywhere!
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- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2024
- The IBOSAD copper press tool I reviewed in a previous video worked well at first, but after using it for a bathroom remodel project, every joint started leaking after about a week. I had to open walls and replace every single joint made with this tool. Despite being marketed as compatible with the Viega-style fittings used in the USA, the press tool is actually designed for an unknown standard of fittings used overseas. These two systems are just different enough to be incompatible, which resulted in slow leaks that took days to appear.
Хобби
Glad I saw this😫 back to the drawing board
You're a hero for this sir. Not buying discount tool.
Thanks for being honest enough to come back on and admit that you initially displayed a piece of junk. I'm glad you did the second video because I was getting ready to go by that piece of crap I owe you a cup of coffee when I meet you bye!
Thanks for the update brother
Thanks for the update. I have this tool.
thank for Update. this very good channel.
You're right about this! Happened two times to me. Thanks to confirm...
The manufacture of the dies would be of the utmost importance since it is the pressure which bonds the fitting to the pipe .
I had the same press for 3 years never had a leak . But the tool failed today when the head stripped off the base .
Thank you thank you thank you
The difference with the electric tools is they have some sort of internal feedback, as well as reasonably machined jaws. I wouldn't be surprised if there's a little swiveling capability in the jaws to even out the pressure on either side. And when the pressure gets to the right amount, the tool knows to stop. If a pressure reading could be built into the off-brand tools, something like a torque wrench which also measures pressure, they could work fine.
Ridgid's mini press tool can do 1/2 and 3/4 copper and PEX, costing $1500 for a complete kit (or $1200 without the PEX jaws), I doubt a manual tool from a legitimate brand with the features you described could be any cheaper.
Either rent a ProPress, buy one, or solder. These no-name tools are not worth dealing with.
I purchased the iCrimp manual press tool and it worked fine on type L copper. But one thing I noted in the manual is that the tool needs to be calibrated to ensure a proper crimp It comes precalibrated from the factory but there are easy to read dials on the handle that can be adjusted as needed.
iCrimp makes the Bluefin tool I reviewed in another video, but this IBOSAD hydraulic unit is a real piece of garbage.
I saw that in your first video just by observation it was squeezing the copper between the clamp making a tab that prevents it from crimping further. You didn't have to remove the previous joint. Just re-crimp with the Rigid tool. I bought the Rigid for the best reviews.
That's true, but since I don't have a "real" press machine I just cut out the joint and soldered it.
@@DragonBuilds I also realized later that their name kind of sounds like "I SO BAD or I BO SAD"
You got to get the one with the propress type jaw. I tried the IBOSAD with that jaw and it worked fine. I wouldn't use it for big jobs , but for home repairs it gets it done
I believe European elbows etc. for propresss style fittings are different. They only have a lip on one side of the o-ring bulge. Perhaps this too was made for that? Dunno…
How did you get the tool into the wall to make the press? Looks like it was in an area and not properly aligned
A few joints I made outside of the wall have the same issue.
you pay for what you get ! dont ever forget folks !
What size is the copper tubing M or L? Rationale: M being thinner will deform more thus preventing the crimping from leaving marks. Whereas L being thicker will require more force to deform and leave the marks from the crimping operation.
The old copper in the wall is L, the new is M. It leaked on both sides.
I just ordered the vevor brand. Hopefully it works better. Thanks for the follow up.
I'd recommend testing the tool on a scrap piece of pipe and pressure testing it before you use it for a real project.
@@DragonBuilds No doubt about that. I'm a general contractor and my plumber is a close friend so I don't need to mess around but I'm just a curious guy and for $85 I just needed to scratch that itch. I spent twice that on fittings lol. Worst case I can use shark bites. I just need to replace some bad gate valves in my house and none are buried in any walls so I should be safe. There's another guy online with a Ibosad who seems to use it for 3/4" on water heaters and the crimps looked solid. Maybe you could test your tool on 3/4" fittings and if it works then contact Ibosad about a replacement 1/2" insert.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter I tested the tool on 3/4" pipe, same problem. I'd really just recommend soldering or renting a real ProPress tool. Sharkbite may actually be more reliable than joints made with the Ibosad tool.
Super appreciate your advice. I will stick to soldering for the moment. 😀
@@mikeyangel1067 that's a good idea. Plus, solder fittings are cheaper and can be taken apart
I thought it might be too good to be true. I didnt think the power tool was over $1k because its electric but some kind of precision requirement since this is to allow commercial places to use copper without having to solder. Thanks for learning the hard way and sharing it. I thought the pinches over the rings was suspect too. The electric tools say they need calibration after some time and I wonder what they "calibrate" since there doesnt appear to be any adjustment to the crimp depth. The dies the real tools use must be really hardened.
I guess this should be renamed BO I SAD now.
The electric press machines can be rented for under $100 a day at many plumbing supply stores such as my local Ferguson.
There are a lot of junk tools on the market aimed at gullible homeowners who find tasks like soldering intimidating. It's best to avoid these products, as they can cause serious issues like what happened with this press tool.
@@DragonBuilds I can solder, but I dont do it that often. I'd rent a propress but I would want one for "just in case" situations. I'm converting from 40yo copper to pex b in stages and need to do all the supply lines in the crawl space. I was hoping to avoid using fire but its probably the best choice for now. I wont even need the tool after the second stage of replacing individual fixtures. Did you use Viega fittings? Whats with the weep hole in them? Suprised Horror Freight hasnt release a Bauer version. Cool idea. Eventually quality knockoffs will make it. These fittings are still very new and most plumbers dont use them yet like those Wago 221's with electricians. We're always behind on the technology here. I just learned what a ventless dryer is (and not a clothes line, lol).
@@jeremywatts2768 I used genuine Viega fittings with this pathetic excuse of a tool. I would suggest just soldering.
Just curious, why replace 40 year old copper? Around here there is plenty of 70 year old copper still in great condition.
@@DragonBuilds 1980's houses < 1950's houses. I bet copper was thicker then. I've been here less than a year and found 3 pinholes. There had previously been other repairs with sharkbites due to various issues with water quality and installation. Too many joints to fail. Some of the joints are pretty ugly too so I can only imagine all the flux that must have been left in the pipes. I'm a fan of PEX simplicity. You' should see the stuff I've been correcting in the electrical. Backstabbed receptacles, switch loop configurations (power starts at device) an HVAC system that was from 1998 (still running too). Who runs 10ga wire into a kitchen on a 20amp breaker for two duplex 15a outlets? I guess I can run my toaster/tig welder combination appliance I got from Harbor Freight on that circuit.
@@jeremywatts2768 Improper installation can ruin the best plumbing systems. Just curious, why PEX-B? PEX-A is better and not that much more expensive.
I sent my first press back and got a replacement. The replacement works very well. I agree that the engineering sucks.
I wouldn't want to take any chances for something like this, especially considering the damage caused by the water leak.
@DragonBuilds My biggest issue with this unit is there is no stop point. You pump it up to when...it blows! It need a small pressure gauge or stop point built in.
How do you know that your tool was not defective ? You would have to get a second tool and test it again to confirm your theory and pressure test it. I use it and works well also this was 2 years ago. They could have a different production run
I cut apart the fitting that was leaking and found that it was not pressed fully. I made another joint with the press tool and cut it apart and found the same problem.
Respectfully, I appreciate your video and it helped. However, that does not address the product you bought was defective. Using the same product again to see if it crimps won't change that. The second tool you bought for $180 met all the checkpoints of the IBOSAD that I have. I bought $400 milwaukee framing nailer. The first one was bad but the second one I have had for years.
So every joint that you have covered up is bad?
Every joint made with this tool leaked.
Why didnt you use the Bluefin press?
Wouldn't fit in the tight space. Next time I'll just solder, or if I really need a press tool, rent a Ridgid or Milwaukee tool.
@@DragonBuilds Yea Im contemplating but hose are too expensive to merit the purchase, might have to just stick with the old solder and torch.
@@hippo-potamus Soldering has another advantage too, as you can take joints apart later.
@@DragonBuilds Excellent point.
I have one of these as well which works fine but I won’t use it in a tight situation where I can’t guarantee the jaw is lined up perfectly as the manual pumping action can cause the tool to mis-align with the fitting…Moral of the story, you get what you pay for.
I just don't think it's worth the risk of leaks, given how expensive emergency plumbing and water damage repairs can be.
@@DragonBuilds I agree 100%…after watching some of the video reviews I’ll probably never use mine again
@@DragonBuilds I have pressed about 10 joints with these and here are my observations. It works pretty well with Nibco and Watts as their fittings are bit wider. The dye looks too by 1/8 wider. It for sure does not crimp 90s and tee properly (but depends on brand). All of my connections were either ball valves or propress to Pex (Viega or Uponor) and they all have held up for more than a year properly.
@@kiwiswat I used Viega fittings and they all leaked. Meanwhile, the Bluefin manual press tool seems to be trouble free with Viega fittings.
Most likely the use of type m copper tube is the fault. The joints are only to be used with type L copper tubing as it is more maluable.
Musst du mit V kontur pressen,das ist mit M kontur gepresst
Ja, du hast recht. In Amerika M-kontur (ProPress) ist der Standard, und die Maschine wurde als ProPress-Gerät verkauft, das ist das Problem.
You probably didn't have it straight, mine works fine and puts press marks on both sides of the o ring.
I'm pretty sure I held mine straight.
Did the 90 get press while in wall?
@@Joshuaellis420 No, I pressed it first then installed it. I should've just soldered :(
Is it possible that the fittings would seal better if it was clamped almost closed the first time then rotated for a second clamping? I don't understand why it would be so hard to duplicate the die and compression of the Milwaukee and Ridgid. I'd think that would be the easiest thing for the manufacturer to do in the design. It looks like they'd even be better if some of the metal on the die was relieved on the outer edge so that the burr wasn't so pronounced and ever so slightly reduced the clamping. I just don't understand how they could make such a basic design mistake. It's a shame.
I don't think rotating the fitting for a second clamping would help. The die on a real press tool is a precision machined piece of hardened steel, while the "die" on this tool is sloppily made.
You should look at the die on it. It’s should be a “sharp” hexagon shape. I wonder if it’s low quality control and it’s a junk die on your 1/2 head
Almost squeezing it in 6 different spots
What can i say , press is fine but those teeths can be wrong , becouse some teeths are made to press just one side some made to press both sides , and you need to buy new teeth try with v marking in uorope we using v teeths for coper , aluminum .
The press is not needed on both sides. It just needs to prevent the joint from blowing apart. An O ring uses pressure to help it seal by design. It could be the elbow was defective or there was dirt on the sealing surface. Groves on the pipe could also cause it to leak.
...and thats why I prefer touse Sharkbite Max
yikes... I even had this in my cart!
not anymore.
Why did you use a sharkbite shut off valve man wtf
The local store ran out of compression valves. I planned to replace it with a compression valve once they were back in stock, however, the press fittings started leaking before that.
😂😂😂
Wrong die used. copper uses m or v type die. Looks like a m die used on v type fitting..
The manufacturer claimed that it was intended for ProPress fittings.
El cheapos tools yeah … Buy or rent properly designed tools like Milwaukee or Ridgid! - These cheapos not worth the hassles - even dangerous at times !! 🙃
I think your part of the problem pay
Thanks for the video. Won't be buying this tool.
man most of these crimpers are junk dont buy any of them unless there made in the usa otherwise you will do the job over have a good one
The Bluefin manual tool from supplyhouse.com is pretty good, but my local Ferguson rents press tools for $90/day. Or you can just use a jetsweat tool and solder.
Exactly why pro press is Garbage. Nothing compares to a soldered joint. Will never allow that crap in my house!!