How To Fix A Pinhole Water Leak In Copper Pipe | No Soldering Needed!
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- Опубликовано: 27 апр 2024
- iCRIMP Manual Press Fitting Crimper - amzn.to/43eehyf
Emergency Repair Clamp (3/8"- 3/4") - amzn.to/3TDe4Sl
AutoCut 3/4" Pipe Cutter - amzn.to/3PfqEEC
SharkBite Max 3/4" Coupling - amzn.to/3V7bF39
SharkBite Gen 1 3/4" Slip Coupling - amzn.to/4a4uFn9
Depth Gauge and Inner Outer Reaming Tool - amzn.to/3V95ATQ
Deburring Pen - amzn.to/43a0sAY
ProPress 3/4" Coupling Without Stop - amzn.to/3v3yhHc
In this video, I will walk you through how to quickly stop a pinhole water leak in a copper pipe. This is an actual issue I ran into at my own home and something that I needed to get fixed fast to reduce any additional drywall and floor damage. I will show 3 different fixes with the 1st just being temporary while you make a plan of attack and the 2nd and 3rd being permanent repairs that don't require desoldering or soldering on new copper fittings.
Chapters
0:00 Overview of my water leak
0:50 Fix 1: Emergency Clamp Repair
1:36 Fix 2: SharkBite Coupling and Slip Coupling Repair
6:11 Fix 3: Press Fitting Coupling Repair
9:29 Manual Crimping Tool From iCrimp
Free Home Maintenance Checklist:
everydayhomerepairs.com/home-...
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. 
Хобби
iCRIMP Manual Press Fitting Crimper - amzn.to/43eehyf
Emergency Repair Clamp (3/8"- 3/4") - amzn.to/3TDe4Sl
AutoCut 3/4" Pipe Cutter - amzn.to/3PfqEEC
SharkBite Max 3/4" Coupling - amzn.to/3V7bF39
SharkBite Gen 1 3/4" Slip Coupling - amzn.to/4a4uFn9
Depth Gauge and Inner Outer Reaming Tool - amzn.to/3V95ATQ
Deburring Pen - amzn.to/43a0sAY
ProPress 3/4" Coupling Without Stop - amzn.to/3v3yhHc
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
bc kickbayt
Or, you can get some silver solder and just solder the hole, using MAP gas. Had to do that on 4" line. The elbow joint leaked a little. The line had a slight bow in it, and I couldn't get all the water out to re-solder it. So, I drilled a hole in the low spot to drain the line, then I was able to solder the elbow, then used the silver solder to seal the hole I drilled.
I do like the way he explains the process for each repair. He makes everyone feel that they can do this and that is the sign of a great teacher.
What a legend, fixing the pipe 2 times just to show us 2 methods. You are an educator & deserves all the respect 🙏👍
I distrusted sharkbite until I had to replace all of my hot water lines under the house in a very tight crawl space. I bit the bullet and decided to give them a try. They have worked great for eight years now.
I re-plumbed my home as part of a whole house renovation nearly 20 years ago. I also installed a radiant heating system. I used first generation shark bite products extensively, with both pex and copper. To date, I've had no problems.
Deburring properly is the key.
You replumbed your house and used sharkbites? So ghetto.
@@muyoso lol, yeah
I've seen shark bite fittings fail in 5 years. If you really had no problems for 20 years, and your whole house is SharkBite, then expect many leaking problems to come. lol
My five 20+ yr old sharkbite fittings are still solid.
Nice, thanks so much for the feedback!
If they are prepped and installed properly, they should be OK. I believe they have like a 25 Year Warranty/ service life? Some say they would not install them inside a wall, etc, but only where they are visible, or have easy access. Hey, as Scott showed here, even copper can fail at some point. Take care
@@georgedavall9449As you said, proper prep is key.
That said, I don't trust anything with an o-ring or rubber gasket/seat/etc. Think how much more often faucets/fixtures have to be replaced, it's almost always the rubber parts.
The pipes he is fixing leaks on is type M copper pipes. That is thin copper pipe and I bet his water is acidic that is slowly dissolving the pipes causing the pin-hole leaks. I have the same problem and am replacing my pipes with Pex.
@@joem5643In other words he didn't permanently fix anything. He will develop another leak somewhere else. He addressed the symptom and not the root cause.
Had this happen a buncha times... used a 1" piece of soft hose slit lengthwise and wrapped over the pinhole and then put a single hose clamp around it, tightened it down directly over the pinhole. Worked like a champ for a year until I could re-pipe using PEX.
I've used Sharkbite connections when I replaced my water heater six years ago. Never had a problem with leaks. Highly recommend.
Best line in regards to the crimping tool "I have it in my Arsenal". That's right. When damage occurs, its war ! BTW, I love ALL of your content.
Thanks for the support 🙌
Use sharkbites over 15 years ago and so far perfect as day one.
This has become my go to DIY channel - really easy to follow and great step by step explanations - really well done
Thanks so much and we are happy to have you 👍
Solder in a new section including the "T". Also, when possible avoid cutting the sheet rock all the way into the corner were it meets the wall. It will easier to restore.
That's what I would do here. But in the case of where it's hard to stop the water from draining into your work, sounds like the alternative is the way to go.
I'd trust a Shakrbite before some plumber sweating a new fitting in, there's some flunkee plumbers, but I've never seen a Sharkbite fail.
You didn’t see how he needed the ceiling open to the wall to fully open his crimping tool handles? I agree with you otherwise though 👍🏻
@@land7776a moron can sweat in copper. It's incredibly easy.
I tried solder but after doing a practice run late at night I switched to sharkbite. Home Depot was almost going to close and I knew it was a sure fix
Been using Sharkbite for years with no problems. Great video.
This guy's good. He has good solutions. Let's nominate him for president.
Are you trying to punish me? 😂
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Oh, right. Forget that plan. Sorry.
All three methods are neatly defined. Thank you for sharing
I have a Sharkbite repair in place now for 12 years without issue. Great product!
Awesome and appreciate the feedback on your SharkBite experience.
Thanks again for these videos. I've been looking for a week to explain why I needed a slip end fitting for the water sediment filter I want to install.
Thanks for the reminder. I need to put in a permanent fix to replace the heater hose I used as a temporary fix after the Texas arctic freeze a few years ago! That slip fitting should work just fine.
Nice video,
Pin hole leak fix one another is to come chance is that wrong ph of water or cheap copper pipe with thin wall copper
This video was great, well explained. I enjoy all your videos. The SharkBite coupling that you used is a polybutylene conversion coupling. The one end of the fitting is gray. Polybutylene pipes were banned in 1995 because off pipe and connection failures.
Excellent!
Thank you for sharing🙋🏼
FANTASTIC video, thanks
I'm in Florida, all the new homes here have pex or CPVC. Don't know how many new generation plumbers here would even know what copper is.😂. Thanks for your time and videos. 👍
Agreed. Copper sweat fittings are basically outdated technology (and the price of copper is 🤕) but of course many will still say "its the right way" to do it. I've had pin holes in copper pipe, never had a pin hole in pex to date.
@@mrpriceisrightcertain building classifications only allow copper and cast...
Pex is great! Way better than SharkBite. But is a different animal.
Sort of irrelevant point because all houses built before the 90's were all copper, so thats what you have to deal with.
@@srobeck77 ? But the repair doesn't have to be.
Gotta love Sharkbite. I was just adding to some plumbing I did over a decade (maybe 2007) and those connections are still fine.
I soldered a pinhole just out of necessity. The situation I was in I couldn’t make a repair without making a mess and pulling a lot of the drop ceiling down. And even then, just the location of the pipe would have made it very hard to do any repairs anyway. And on top of that, the valve that isolated that branch from the main line didn’t work. So eventually I had the time to shut the water supply off to the entire building, drained what I could from the line, cleaned around the pinhole then fluxed around it and got a dab of solder into the hole.
Seems to be holding fine after a year.
This solder fix will outlast any prioress or shark bite.
Until another dozen or so pinholes appear 😢
All genius things are pretty simple ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
I used shark-bite on a cold water pipe about 2 years ago----so far so good
Scott !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One of your BEST Videos I’ve seen! Plumbing issues and fixes and retro fittings have been my challenge for awhile now.
I had occasion to watch a plumber use the Milwaukee Pro Press system, and it is really something. I shared this with my wife, and she immediately put the skids to me getting it! 😯 😆
I am thinking of getting one of those new SkarkBite Max fittings, that You used here? It would be a
ball valve shutoff for 3/4” PEX pipe, that transitions from the PEX, to copper on my water heater? I wonder your thoughts/ recommendation on that, VS the older style, with the ‘sleeves?’ Anyone else in the community? Thanks!
I would go with the new Max SharkBite especially with 3/4” as the pex will be pretty solid without the insert. SharkBite really shines with the ease of transition from copper to pex. Thanks for the kind words!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks for reply Scott! You made a Great point on the extra stiffness of the 3/4” PEX. SharkBITE MAX is what I will go with. And I only say what I mean, and You're Welcome! 😊🤝
Your videos are the best. Your electric videos have helped me so much.
Thanks so much for the support 👍
Great info and options!!! Thanks for the video!!!
You bet!
Thank you for putting in the effort of fixing then unfixing your own pipes multiple times just to demonstrate all those methods.
I worked in a chem plant - so I was very familiar with ball valves. when I purchased this house, I had the main shutoff and I think no other valves. so I added ball valves everywhere ( except under sink - had help and I was not ready for ball valve - political situation ). I changed out each fitting ( or both sides ) whenever a repair was needed ( except the last one - since main off - did a couple at one time ).
I replumbed with CPVC and has no sharkbite except where I connected copper to cpvc. when I did under the since ( I have problems screwing on shutoff values and wished I have used sharkbyte shutoff valve ).
Very good video, I always enjoy plumbing video seeing how the pro's handle everything.
Funny. I noticed your Knipex tool. I have the exact same one! Been using it for decades in my HVAC work. German made and better than the rest of the name brands.
What I like most about its design is that you only have to push on one handle and the harder you push the tighter it grabs!
SharkBites are great for emergency/temp repairs. Yes, they will last some years, but after doing mechanical work for the last 50 years, I have seen plenty of O-rings fail, no matter if it was used on air, water, oil, or freon, they will harden and crack. So for me, I would not use them for long term. Same with the crimp fitting, it has a O-ring. Lots of people saying they have had SharkBite for years, and yes, they have, but once they start drying out, cracking, getting small leaks, or big leaks, you can be assured, that the other fittings won't be far behind in failing. And as usual, there are lots of variables as to how long those O-rings might last, things like chlorine in the water, how much pressure fluctuation, how much temperature swing, if there is any movement in the pipe due to contraction/expansion or even water hammer, some people run ozone machines, and that will break down rubber products like crazy. So not for me, other than a quick temp fix.
Excellent video.
I think the release tool is used in the other direction. the square edge against the release ring and the rounded edge against your hand. The square edge gives a better push against the release ring.
I have used sharkbite for emergency repairs as well as some small plumbing remodels as well. Some of them are over twenty years old here in my own home, and I have never had an issue as long as they were inserted completely as you said.
I was unaware of the depth gauge and deburring tool. They are now on my Amazon list for the next order.
Thanks!
Hey Scott, I am needing a video on how to change out a bathroom sink washer. Thanks so much friend ❤ Penny from Iowa
ruclips.net/video/15A0V7lj_Lo/видео.htmlsi=baB-7PFy7w15WlaP
Thanks for the great video and info!
PLEASE upload a video showing how you patch the popcorn ceiling!
I just rented a Dewalt ProPress tool for the weekend from Sunbelt. I discovered if you rent on Friday after 1pm you keep the tool till Monday 9am for 1 day fee.
Lowest plumber was asking for $650 to install a whole house filter. Parts and rental costed me half that amount and got to learn a lot being the first time using the tool. Took me a whole Saturday afternoon installing the filter and a noisy PRV. The tool is foolproof for a DIYer like me, I guess that’s why it costs a kidney or two
I did almost the same exact repair about 15 years ago with Sharkbites and there have been no leaks since. Sharkbites have been used in Australia , where they were invented, since WW2. You must deburr and mark insertion depths as you show.
Thanks for the feedback, I think SharkBites are great and in some locations and situations are by far the best option for DIY homeowner.
Long time ago I uesd a worm drive hose clip and a bicycle tyre repair patch, I expect its still there! I said this is only temporary but do wonder if they called professional!, but it fixed the flood.
Thanks Scott
I plumbed my kitchen renovation 10 years ago with shark bites so far so good! I have had pin hole leaks in copper I use inner tube patch kit with radiator clamp it will stay forever.
That sounds reassuring, "so far so good" , LOL
Outstanding. Great work and savings. 😊😊😊
Thanks!
Thanks, well explained!
Great demo, thanks. I like sharkbites but only for temporary.
I am by no means a plumber or professional. Have used sharkbite fittings for a least 5 years. I have had one to fail. But I beleive that it was my fault. The one thing that you have to rememember is that the ends of the pipes, that the shark bites install must be clean and free of burs. If you don't do this you are going to have leaks. The other fittings that I used were real good and never leaked. Enjoy your channel.
The "good side" of DIY RUclips is the father I never had.
Taught me to tie a tie,
Taught me how to shave,
Taught me how to care for leather shoes + accessories,
How to maintain my own car,
How to improve my lawn,
How to defend myself,
How to cook,
How to be a father myself,
How to manage finances,
How to question what im told,
How to buy good tools and equipment.
Thanks for a great vid i just had to solder a pipe but if it wasn't an exposed pipe this video wouldve save me.
Did you ever find a RUclips channel that could explain women to you? My dad taught me all sorts of mechanical stuff and nothing about relationships. I didn’t realize until later in life that there was an entire body of knowledge, about which I knew nothing, was taught nothing, and was unsuccessful in figuring out on my own. I suspect this is a common problem.
@@danamyrocket sorry my man. On that front, I got lucky in my life and met my wife in highschool. Although as a new father the channels can overlap a lot. You might enjoy "dad saves America" RUclips channel & videos about husband+wife interactions. My personal opinion is a lot of single people don't seem to embrace "the work" of a relationship. You can't just stay with a loser, but people seem to have no sense of finding a partner to grow with for the future. They want their perfect match on date #1with someone who has everything sorted out and appealing & then everyone says "there's no good guys/girls" but they meet on apps made for hookup culture rather than trying to meet people through activities they enjoy already themselves, in order to find someone with a personality and spirit they mesh well with & then working on building a future one step at a time from there.
I'd use a shark-bite but leave an access to the repair. Plastic panels are available that will fit into the ceiling or wall cavity and are easily removable, if necessary, in the future. I used them when replumbing the master bathroom and the basement bathroom in my old house.
Yeah, I am going to mention the access panels in the video where I show the drywall repair as well. 👍
Hose clamps and rubber are a great fix!
Using a small piece of shower pan liner (although a bicycle innertube may work as well) cut to less than the circumference of the pipe, placed over the pinhole leak, and secured with a hose clamp will get the job done.
I've used good quality hose clamps and shower pan liner to repair many (dozens) of these types of leaks without a single failure lasting over decades!
You don't need to close the water supply, in fact it helps you know when you've put enough torque on the hose clamp.
If you have to do this in the same residence or facility many times, consider replacing the pipes. Use PEX and recycle the copper, you may be surprised at the net cost.
In a pinch I've used an automotive hose clamp and a piece of rubber cut from an old radiator hose as temporary repair device. It lasted for weeks until I finally got around to fixing it correctly.
Yeah, I also carry a few hose clamps in my plumbing kit 👍
Nice presentation!
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
For sure 👍
I've used SharkBite (or releasable SharkBite-style) products on plastic (or whatever) water tubing, but that's it. Being familiar with SharkBite (or similar) and how they work, I'd likely would have gone with SharkBite for leaking water pipes because I hadn't heard of the others. The SharkBite slip-joint design is cool! After learning about the others and that they require an expensive crimping tool, SharkBite would still the way to go for me. It's good to know that support for a level repair is best without any bending/angle stress on the SharkBite repair. Thanks, Scott.
Great info thanks for sharing your knowledge Artie 👍
You bet!
Super video. Thanks!
I hope all that moving around didn't agitate the soldered seal up above!
I had a pin hole on a copper pipe and what I did was just cut a hose line I have laying around and cover it then tighten it with a hose clamp. Work exactly like your example. These are stuff every one might have laying around.
This is neat! Thank you!!!
Years ago, on a pinhole leak, I used 2 part epoxy ribbon and a hose clamp. I put a good glop of the epoxy all the way around after I rubbed the 2 parts together and tightened the hose clamp over the glob. The clamp forced the epoxy into the hole. As far as I know that fix is still working, 20 years later. I don't live there any more, but never heard a thing from the new owner.
A hose clamp and a small piece of rubber works great. I use a piece of an old intertube
The only people who hate on Sharkbites are either 1) professional plumbers who don't like that they're simple enough for people to successfully do somewhat major work themselves or 2) people who have installed them improperly and had a leak. They're definitely expensive, but so is a ProPress tool...and if you improperly install a ProPress fitting, they'll leak too. :)
I also don't agree that a properly soldered fitting is the best way to go--tell that to my 50yr old house where many/most soldered junctions are green because of tiny leaks corroding the copper over time, with some dripping requiring replacement. Also type M copper pipes are trash.
Excellent upload. I would add that if you're going to sand and remove the chunks of solder from a pipe you're repairing, do so before the pipe is cut. It' irritating to sand or clean a pipe if it's unsupported and flopping back and forth and up and down.
Most of the plumbers use the copper press tools in Australia. A lot of places, particularly commercial, won't allow open flame soldering anymore. Time will tell if any good long term. As only an O ring. The press with the hand crimper is quite crude. The good professional crimper also need continual calibration. Some can even tell you they are not crimping at optimum level.
Nice tutorial.
This was helpful. I was trying to find a video I saw about adding a ball valve inline with no cutting the copper. Some type of fitting that goes around the pipe then cuts the pipe. I don’t have a main cutoff in the house, only at the curb (or dirt road, as it were😉). I’d like to add one if those would work, but cant find the video, now.
Thanks for your content, I watch both solar and these, but 99% of the time on Apple TV, so rarely get on just to comment. But I’m a fan.
SHUT-OFF valve installs on a LIVE WATER PIPE - Aladdin EasyFit Isolator
I used shark bite under my house to rerun all the old copper with pex over 10 years ago and they are still holding strong
Looks like a useful tool however some users have complained of leaks due to the manual propress tool not crimping with enough force as the battery powered tools. Jury is still out I suppose.
Great video! I’m curious about your choice of crimping tool. I’ve lusted after the high end battery powered deals…it’s just not in the cards for a DIY guy….. I’d love to see a comparison of joints…your manual one vs. one crimped with a big boy tool.
Getter Done! I would like to see the video of you fixing the roof you had to cut to gain access.
Great video...thanks!
My leak was right past a ball valve 6 inches before the water main entered my house, & it was 6 pm & it was a sizable leak. I looked at it, tried some emergency clamps like yours, but they didn't work. Called a plumber. OMG. He used those new fittings like you finished with, replacing several sections of pipe with leaking fittings. $980, took him 20 minutes.
All the trades have extremely high prices, especially with all the shortcuts like propress and pex. It's really awful. Hopefully the market will correct itself with more kids going into trade school instead of 4 year degrees where 50% of them will never even use the degree.
About 10 year ago I caught a rotten water main on a country Estate. Used a much bigger version of that quick fix. Filled in the hole and left rather sharpish.😉😅👍
The Shark Bite (via a professional plumber) saved my butt at my office due to a pinhole leak behind a built-in cabinet. The leak was on a pipe in the 5" space between two studs. No room for any other option. We had to cut out the back of the cabinet for access.
Sharkbite all the way for ease of use, reliability, cost and availability. They meet all codes and are warranted for 25 years and I have yet to meet a plumber who warrants his wipe joints for 25 years.
Thank you so much
Menards?! You must be from Minnesota, right? Thanks for the great tips! I learned something.
Illinois.........for now 🙂
Good video. I have no problem with sharkbite fittings for permanent repairs (they've been around a long time). Have plumbed and replumbed multiple houses (that had galvanized pipes) using pex pipe with pex crimp and sharkbite fittings. Have you used the speedfit twist and lock fittings (which are usually cheaper)? They are like a sharkbite, sold as "John Guest"; Sharkbite now have similar "prolock" at HD. I've used them for many years and been happy with them (avail regular and slip). I'd probably use a regular brass compression fitting before using the propress. Can you tell I dislike sweat fittings? I can do them but really would be a last resort. Pex is just so much easier, cheaper than copper and much less likely to pin hole.
nice !
Thanks.
All three methods relied upon rubber.
If the home owner is afraid to sweat,they might consider a brass compression fitting.
I feel like sweating a brass transition to pex type a expansion would be in order in a finished basement situation such as this.
If you DIY and you have one pinhole, go ahead and buy the PEX-B crimping tool. I feel more comfortable with the copper ring crimps over brass fittings. The new gen Max shark bite show promise for applications where you want to minimal flow restrictions.
The original plumber must have had an aversion to stabilizing pipes starting at the main shutoff. Nothing I hate more than jiggling pipes.
Loved this comment bill, so true and it made me chuckle. 👍
Sharkbite for the win
Pretty handy for sure
Great video
Thanks!
Garden hose and two clamps do the job cheaper and holds good, or pro press fit coupling if water is in the line.
I would be tempted to call a pro because if you have two failures on the same pipe chances are there are bigger problems. Push on connector is fine for a temp fix.
Yep, indicates piping will just have still another pinhole leak before too long. Water hardness and/or pH produces also thinner walled copper pipe produces these holes. Time to replace it all with PEX.
exactly: the rest of the pipe is the same pipe that developed the pinholes.
Yup. I discovered a pinhole leak in a 40 year old 3/4” cu pipe. The leak saw in a section that passed over the galvanized steel ductwork by about 6”. A very common occurrence in my neighborhood. I started replacing all cu with PEX-B. Once the bad section was cut out, I counted more than 20 pinholes in the 26” of pipe which were in proximity to the galvanized ductwork. Nothing anywhere else.
I mean if your into paying $400-500 for that type of fix from a licensed plumber hell ya man, go for it. Ive had push-ons for 15 years now, no leaks
@@srobeck77 and I have 3 repairs and counting in the same copper.
thing is, if one piece of copper wears through - the rest of the copper has had roughly the same age and wear.
Nice informative, repairs made e z
I now trust the sharkbite since Richard, from this Old House, said he trusts them inside a wall.
Love the videos have a major distrust of any fitting that doesn't have some sort of mechanical seal. I feel a compression fitting or soldering would be a permanent fix vs a rubber o ring that will dry rot after 20-30 years.
Last time I had to have this fixed in my place, my handyman put a shark bite on which stopped that leak, but the pipe then broke below the shutoff valve (basically the supply line started leaking right where it came up out of the floor). I had to call in a professional crew to fix that. They took one look at the shark fitting, shook their heads, tore it off, and sweated new copper on. I haven't seen those copper sleeves before - maybe it's a regional thing? I'm in the Chicagoland area. Anyhow, thanks for the vids!
That's funny! I bought a house from an old lady and she got 'soaked' by some 'professional' plumbers the same way for a fix on 2 washer supply lines. Those pipes were so crossed over and crocked looked like crap. I cut all that junk out and sweated in some new ball valves and copper. Nice and straight too. The burned her for over $300 for 20 minutes of work. And that was 20 years ago. Those 'Pro-Press' couplings like anything else, is for production work or speed over quality. Mostly on these new cheap built 'boxes' with the stiched together wood.
Of course plumbers charging $100/hour are gunna whine about them. Ive had more soldered copper joints fail then zero for sharkbites. No offense, but the number 1 cause of sharkbites failing is operator error on the install (aka you didnt push it on far enough, didnt reem the copper, etc)
I use sharkbite in the basement where the connections are accessible. Otherwise solder.
I held off buying propress because of the exorbitant price of the press tools. However, Rigid came out with a press tool that is a bit cheaper and only does 1/2" and 3/4" copper pipe. So, I took the plunge. I absolutely love it. It works flawlessly.
I've never used any of the stuff you showed but I don't know why most people prefer SharkBite because with 0-rings, they deteriorate and over time, they are bound to leak again. But in turns of cost and convenience, I would likely go with SharkBite too if fixing it myself. I have leaks all the time around the house with kitchen faucets, toilet water supply lines, laundry and show lines, etc and all except 1 is due to worn 0-rings or rubber washer.
That copper is probably old. Copper will only last about 50 years if the water is acidic and depending on the gauge of the copper (thinner lasts a shorter time). We noticed recent green staining on the tubs under the faucets indicating degradation. If one pinhole started leaking, then more are coming. We had our pinhole leaking horizontal copper (probably from coils when house was built) in the crawlspace taken out and replaced with PEX. Vertical joints to the fixtures were thicker stock and not (yet) leaking, and due to the expense of replacing them too, left them in.
Amen to dat!!!
What causes the pinhole leaks? Too much flux? water quality? Last pro repair I had done, they used propress with the Milwaukee tool.