For those wondering about the tools used for this job, this is what I used in the video. You can complete the job with other brand tools, just showing what I used personally The electric ratchet is a Snap-on CTR761B. A set of 3/8" drive metric deep and shallow impact sockets. A 22mm socket for the crank bolt. A 1/2" breaker bar. A prybar. A 3/8" drive ratchet. Hose clamp pliers. A 3/8" torch wrench, a Snap-on ATECH2FR100B. A small telescoping inspection mirror. A spill-free funnel. - Snap-on CTR761B - store.snapon.com/CTR761B-Series-14-4-V-Ratchets-3-8--14-4-V-MicroLithium-3-8-Drive-Cordless-Ratchet-Kit-P884777.aspx - Matco/ Silver Eagle SBPSE436P - discontinued. Alternate. - ADV - SBP426V - www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/SBP426V/3-8-DRIVE-ADV-42-PIECE-METRIC-SAE-6-POINT-IMPACT-SOCKET-SET/ - Snap-on 22mm 6 point shallow socket - TWM22 - store.snapon.com/Shallow-mm-chrome-Socket-Metric-Shallow-22-mm-6-Point-P632202.aspx - Snap-on 1/2" breaker bar - SHN36 -store.snapon.com/Breaker-Bars-1-2--1-2-Drive-Soft-Grip-Handle-Breaker-Bar-P813610.aspx - Snap-on prybar 24" - SPBS24A - store.snapon.com/Striking-Prybars-Prybar-Striking-24--P884980.aspx - Snap-on long handle 3/8" ratchet - FL80 - store.snapon.com/Dual-80-174-Technology-chrome-3-8--3-8-Drive-Dual-80-Technology-Long-Handle-Ratchet-P646273.aspx - Bluepoint hose pliers - HCP9 - store.snapon.com/Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Corbin-Heater-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Blue-Point--P635770.aspx - Snap-on 3/8" torque wrench - ATECH2FR100B - store.snapon.com/TechAngle-174-Models-2-Accuracy-Ratcheting-Flex-Head-3-8-Drive-TechAngle-reg-Flex-Head-Torque-Wrench-5-ndash-100-ft-lb--P759379.aspx - Blue-Point telescoping inspection mirror - UIM325 - store.snapon.com/Mirrors-Telescoping-Mirror-Inspection-Telescoping-3-1-4-Mirror-Blue-Point--P636582.aspx - Lisle spill-free funnel - 24680 - www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500725449&sr=8-3&keywords=spill-free+funnel
+Joshua Felty the timing belt tensioner is a loaded hydraulic ram essentially. The tensioner is locked in place with the pin out of the box. You set your timing then pull the pin to let the tensioner do its job.
MrSubaru1387 i bless the Lotd God of israel for you for sharing this priceless information and taking your very valuable time may his face shine upon you and may you find to know the love of his son yahushua Jesus thank you my brother
A quick question did you take off the bottom left pulley be for removing the timing belt tensioner? As I have the older style tensioner can I do this without pinning the tensioner back? Thanks great vids btw
Yes, facing the engine, the lower left idler pulley is removed first. Even with the old style tensioner, you must compress it or replace it to reset the belt.
Quit apologizing so much! Hands down one of the best timing belt/water pump videos on RUclips. Easy, straight forward, with some text assist. I dont have to do this job yet but i figure id get ahead of it. Subd
I think I'll have a talk with my mechanic; you took 16:5 min to do the job. He is charging me for 5 hours... Thanks, man; no need for apologies. Your video is great, clean, to the point and very understandable.
excellent job with everything. I particularly liked the economy of style, the absence of unnecessary chichat which clutters up most videos. Even though I am a experienced mechanic I did like the nifty snap on tools which really made the job fly. I guess I will have to call the snap on truck to pay me an expensive visit.
im replacing my water pump and timing belts/pulleys next weekend. this video literally will help so much. subaru wanted 1500$ to do this job 1100 for parts and 400 for labour. i decided ill buy the parts and do it my self. parts cost me 250$ thats a whole lot better then 1500$. thanks again for the video atleast i have something to refer to if any problems occur.
Great video! It took me almost an entire day to do this with my dad and a mechanic friend letting me use a spot at his shop with his tools. I had an 07 WRX and this was a hell of a job but I remember the crooks at dealer wanted almost two grand for the parts and labor. One thing I could add for others is if you’re going to replace the water pump, might as well connect a water Line hose to reservoir (turbo models only) and flush out the old coolant from system (we just had the motor run after belt was changed and kept water going until it was flushed clear). Also used the Subaru green coolant and the conditioner, removed the air bubbles, the car ran like a champ! Keep up the good work!
Another GREAT video man. Best "how to" videos out there. No fluff or BSing with a selfie cam about what your cat ate for breakfast for the first 15 minutes of the video.. Just step by step goodness and great camera work done with proper tools!
This is the best guide available at the moment. Well worth turning the engine over by hand before putting it all back together though! Love seeing these videos to check what I'm in for, and spot any tools I might need or hangups before I get there. I got mine in a week.
Super video. Best I've seen. To the point , no adlibbing, no profanity, very professional and easy to understand. Look forward to seeing additional how to videos. Super job.
great vid mate. I called around the dealers here - no one wants to do the job properly (i.e. just change the belt and 'check' the WP). I may have to do this myself! The only thing i would add to any belt change is always rotate the engine twice by hand, even when sure of the marks, to ensure no binding/clash of valves & when u go thru 2 phases of the crank to recheck marks. Again, great straight forward vid - it helps alot.
this is far and away the best vid on this - I like the written steps(instead of the grunts and mumbling on most) also good steady camera - most guys hold camera with one hand and try to work with the other. Spastics!
Thanks Rob great video My daughter has just been quoted $1360.00 Australian at the dealer for this job (timing belt and idlers) without replacing the water pump the car is 5yrs old with 57,000 km and was due the E service 60 months or 125,000 km. Now I will do it all myself, thank you once again........................
I am working on 2008 Subaru impreza with EJ20 DOHC, the water pump is OK but the gasket is leaking too much, I bought the gasket from the dealer and all I need right now is to put everything back in place thank you very much for all information and torque specs especially 😊
This video is excellent. It gave me the courage to go ahead and buy the pump and belt and give 'er a go.I've always wondered how replacing a timing belt would be, and I guess I'm going to find out.
Smokín Job. Just got the kit and headed to the garage to do it. I like the crank pulley trick and am pleased to see they generally come off without too much hassle. Pitter Patter....
I took it apart in about 40 minutes...had allot of rust on the belt tensioner for the AC and had to use a cold chisel the knock them loose...worked. I was hoping the ticking I had was tensioner on timing belt but it's an engine knock all the way...so I'll be needing a decent 2.5L....hard to find around here...sucks.
Awesome job! I have a lexus ls430 2001 with 360,000 miles. Every 100,000 miles I have the timing belt pulleys serpentine belt spark plugs waterpump thermostat all replaced. My lexus ls430 2001 is a tank many mechanics said it would easily go over 500,000 miles it you keep up the maintenance.
I've successfully replaced the timing belt and your video was very helpful! I would just add a few remarks: - After you've installed the timing belt, you should crank the engine over twice to make sure all the marks are still in alignment. - You should lubricate the crank bolt with engine oil. It's also advisable to replace this bolt. - The tightening torque of the tensioner I've found in another sources is 39 Nm (29 ft lb).
+Translations Polish correct. The Subaru factory manual state 25ft.lbs on the tensioner. I believe that the 20ft.lbs was a spec included in the paperwork with this particular Gates kit.
those weird one handed shakey moments? yeah don't worry those are great perspective shots of what people actually can see of some of this stuff when taking it apart. especially when bent over the vehicle ripping on a breaker bar... and i might pay a shop to do this after just replacing cv axles. Excellent video!
Thanks for the guide, it's really well done. I want to do the camshaft seals and I'm worried about the cams going out of alignment when I replace the seals. How do I ensure it stays aligned and how do I get it lined up again if it does spin out of alignment? Thanks
Fantastic video. Thanks for taking the time to record and post. Planning to tackle my EJ20G jdm forester Tbelt and Pullets in the next couple weeks. This will help a lot!
Great piece of video. thumbs up ... very informative !!! Liked the way you have given titles, mentioning every parts and what you do. Many people like me, can learn from it
MrSubaru1387 should be MrSubaru1! What a great video. Thank you so much. While it is not my model 2007 Outback the ease and knowledge you have is great. Thanks for sharing. I like the part where you apologize for your arm/elbow being in the way. Not to worry, much better than watching those plumbing videos when you get a shot of 'plumber crack'!
Sir, that was an excellent and informative video. I have a new to me 2011 Outback with 150K and no history of timing belt replacement. Need to get this done. I am capable of doing this myself...just don't have the time. We have a local shop and their cost is $582.00 (the dealer wants $1,400). I believe I will let the local shop do it. But...I do wish you r shop was close by! Thanks again for a great video!
Great video, straight forward. any recommendations for a stuck crank shaft pulley? seems you pull it out with a little work but mine will not budge what so ever.
This was a perfectly laid out how to video. I =eally have not seen a better one. I just bought a 1998 Subaru legacy wagon and I didn't know about this engines rep for head gasket failure. So it looks like I'm going to have to do this job. I bought it and it worked fine the first day then it started overheating. Then the ignition went out and it died in the intersection so after I figure out why it won't start I am going to tackle the overheating. I brought it up to running temp and checked the upper and lower hoses and the lower was cool so I bought a thermostat. If that don't work I'll check for gasket signs. Any advice you can give?
Fabulous video for a lot of reasons, good editing, no chit chat, great angles, etc. well done. I can't get the damn belt on and lined up to save my life on a 2011 Forester XT 2.5 turbo. Passenger side cams keep spinning and belt keeps falling off one spot as soon as I get another spot on. x/ grrrr.... It's my first timing belt so I am going through the the noob pains.
Mr Subaru, how much was Snap-on asking for the torque wrench? Secondly I have an 2002 SOHC.Does the belt kit on those have the white marks on the belt to line everything up?
Love your videos. Maybe I'm doing this soon. I have a knocking noise coming from the right side. I'm hoping it the tensioner. So I check n maybe replacing it n other pulleys. I feel confident to try watching this. As I did changing my clutch, flywheel and oil separator plates.
You made that look soooo Easy lol. the Driver side bottom cam is under tension and I generally have to fight with it. However, I'm going to try this method. took the front off because I thought the Cam seals were leaking. looks like I was wrong so now I get to reassemble the front of the motor so that I can take the Tranny out next.
i love your tools please post all the name and brands please there is 24 dislikes those are haters and dump respect my friend i love people and mechanics like you you work smart and make it seems uncomplicated sorry for my English please post again all the tools you was using i gonna buy all of them you have new follower nowim number 5001
The electric ratchet is a Snap-on CTR761B. A set of 3/8" drive metric deep and shallow impact sockets. A 22mm socket for the crank bolt. A 1/2" breaker bar. A prybar. A 3/8" drive ratchet. Hose clamp pliers. Needle nose pliers. A 3/8" torch wrench, a Snap-on ATECH2FR100B. A small telescoping inspection mirror. That's pretty much is.
Do you have a video on how to remove the crank pulley without using the starter method? I am afraid to try it. lol I am putting a UD pulley on my SVX in the spring and looking for a way to do it easily without much risk. Like putting a screw driver in the flex plate or something like that, but I've never done it. Going to do the idler pulley at the same time because it costs like $20.
Dang. Nobody on RUclips does. lol everyone of them is the starter method. Even doing that don't you have to lock it by sticking something in the flex plate anyways?
Put the car into 5th gear, apply the brake (by using someone's help or by putting sth heavy on the pedal) and loosen the crank bolt. Pull hardly and abruptly, just as an impact wrench would do. Use a long extension, of course.
PLEASE, if you drive a Subaru wrx this IS the video you need! just recommend a cam locking tool ("23 company tool"). be extra careful with the water pump bolts!!!
This video was made almost 5 years ago now, how is this water pump/timing kit holding up? Considering buying the same kit because its time for me to do these maintenance items for my '98 Legacy Outback.
I sold the car. The guy with it has had no issues, as far as I've heard. I'd highly recommend Aisin. All OE components in their kits. Gates kits have started to use cheap Chinese components.
Awesome video!!!! Company 23 make some good specially tools for subarus. They make a holding tools for the timing gears to prevent them from moving when removing the belt thy are awesome. If your interested just give you that info. Can't wait for the next video. Maybe a interior video of the SVX?
Yea, I'm a aware. Own quite a bit of Company 23 stuff. Just try to shoot my videos without using them so people without specialty tools can see that they don't necessarily need them to do the job.
Nice video, I really liked the way you removed the crank pulley bolt. I have two questions, how did you tighten the crank pulley bolt? and do you think I can do this job without removing the radiator? Once again, thank you so much for sharing.
+Oscar Monge tightened the crank pulley by wedging a prybar in the flywheel to keep the engine from turning. I do have a Subaru specific tool that holds the crank pulley as well. Yes, the job can be done with the radiator in place
Crank pulley removal tool?? EHHH... who needs it when you're a REAL SUBIE MAN.. Get err done... cool trick def usable in a pinch.. well done my MAN.. lmao credit.. and thank you for the detailed info!
Wish I could do this on my own but I might break my hawkeye sti :( badass video but not sure if I can do the job on my own yet. But with your video I’ll fo it slowly and my car won’t be moving anywhere until I finish the job lol.
Far out. I watched this then got a pump and got to it... everything went so smoothly and I got to the point of putting the timing belt back on. I was pulling and stretching the belt by hand and made the right hand side cam move a quarter turn. I managed to pull it back into place but wrestled for 30 minutes and had to give up for the night. THEN I watched the rest of the video past the point I was at and you pulled a pin from your new tensioner. I am just replacing a waterpump and seal, so my tensioner had no pin and is clearly the thing holding me back from getting the belt back on. I hope I haven't bent any valves, and i'll see if I can finish the job tomorrow! I hope I can push the hydraulic part of the tensioner in and put a pin of some kind in it.
+Steve Rand +Steve Rand yes. If you reuse the tensioner, you must reset it in a vise. You must press the tensioner in slowly or you will damage the tensioner. Should slowly press it back in in no less than 15mins. Use a small Allen key or drill bit to lock it into place.
I left my tensioner undone for almost a day, then pushed it in fairly slowly with a G-clamp and yeah, used a small allen key. It went on relatively easily after that, but the SOHC engine I have seems to not have as much slack on the timing system than your DOHC did. I had to lever the bottom with a screwdriver over the waterpump to even get it started. The left pulley off gives a tiny bit of help, but not enough. Anyway, all back together, just need to put the radiator pipes on and fill it back up. HOpefully this was the source of my waterfall!
After this process my cooling system is not holding pressure. Does not overheat, no visible coolant leaks, but the top hose is always squishy when hot. Anything to worry about? Thanks for the vids! Helping a ton to restore a 97 I got for the winter.
Hello I’ve a 02 forester that’s done 125000 and had its belt change at 97000, it’s been 7 years now since it was done do you recommend I get it done soon as or do I have a it of time thanks.
+Felipe Martinez glad you enjoy the videos. No, I actually don't. That said, they're all pretty much the same, push the tab on the blade near the arm and it will slide off.
Hey there, a good tip. I have seen a few times Subaru water pumps siezing and causing timing belt failure, expensive repair! the last car had only 75000k's but the cam belt was overdue time wise. 100 000 km or 5 years. Water pump is such an easy job when the cam belt is removed. Just do it! cheers
Hey Mr Subaru, my 2008 Forester XT 2.5 DOHC blew the head gasket. I’ve talked to a few local Subaru specialists and I’ve heard that the odds are I will need to replace the block or the head when they get in there. I was quoted $5,000 for the head gasket, $8-$12,000 if it needs a new block. The idea of spending a few thousand just to find out if I’m throwing the car away is eating at me. Any suggestions on how to guess if it’s worth attempting? I love this car, and would happily pay $5,000 to get her running top notch again, not interested in $12,000 at all though. Thanks for your time!
Your videos are the only ones I feel really help to a job your self, is this the same procedure on the 2001 wrx engine with the coil pack been to the right??
These cars are remarkably easy to work on. The timing markings seem to be plain as day, with a lot of tolerance so there is really no chance of messing the job up. Nice tools btw. I Do have a serious question though. I have a 2005 Subaru legacy and want to swap the engine and transmission from the gt model because its turbo charged. Reason why I'm asking this, Is instead of ripping into my engine to make it able to use a turbo with out destroying the engine. I plan to just replace it with an engine that was built to use turbo. Will the engine and transmission fit(I know if it does I need to retro fit and install the clutch pedal and change the plate for the shifter)? Will I need to buy a new computer for the car? If you could answer any of that I'd appreciate it.
+rust8infinite physically, it will bolt straight in. I can't remember exactly, but may need to notch the cross member for the down pipe to fit. I know it has to be modified on imprezas, can't recall on Legacys. You'll need to swap wiring, ecu, fuel system components, etc. Very involved job. Not something to attempt without a solid/experienced background. I'd recommend swapping to an EZ36R rather than an EJ255. Easier swap, and more reliable engine. Just my opinion.
What an awesome job!!!! wanted to ask you a question, if my timing belt broke then does that mean that my engine is toast or can it be fixed? not sure if the valves are bent. Thanks in advance.
+balabay77 really depends on rpm at the time of breakage. It can destroy it, bent valves, or you can luck up. I bought this 98 LGT with a jumped timing belt due to a bad idler pulley. I re-timed the engine and it ran fine. Did a cylinder leakage test and compression test with no lose. I was very lucky.
Thanks for fast response, greatly appreciated. it happened on the freeway so most likely the valves are bent but since i got nothing to loose, i will try to crank/rotate the engine by hand to see if there is any binding/ clash of valves. Thank you sir for the video, very informative and straight to the point. Cheers.
Excellent!! Liked and subscribed! Is it ok to only have one of each marks line up on the drivers side cam pulleys, where there is two marks side by side? I hope it's not to confusing. Thank you.
What a perfectly informative video. You did a perfect job, I mean every step. I feel confident I can take this task in, even without a timing light. lol!
Just a question ..At 7:45 the bolt holding the belt pulley to the block is set back to a point that you can hardly see the head of the bolt. The belt must put a hell of an off centre load on that bearing.
Hi, really good video. When tightening the crank pulley to 130 ft lbs, what do you do to stop the engine turning over so you can tighten the bolt? Do you just put it in gear and put the handbrake on?
Hi how long has your subaru's engine been running? I have a 2012 forester here in Brazil I hope I do not have to change the water pump, and it's very hard work here in Brazil and it's very difficult to find parts. Your video was really good.
wow, great video! I was thinking of getting an 04 outback LL Bean, and wanted to see how a timing belt replacement goes on a boxer engine. Do you have any opinions on the 04 LL bean? I read reviews online that said they are far less problematic than the 4 cylinder version.
+megakiller999 I daily drove an 02 L.L.Bean. It has 275,000 miles on it. Has been an excellent car. Stopped driving it due to a head gasket failure. But, at 275,000 miles. I can't complain one bit. Will be back driving it once I have time to repair it.
Excellent, very useful. You make it look easy. Question: Gates vs Subaur parts...equal confidence? (Some videos showing China made parts in the Gates kit}
+William Hart I used to use Gates kits. I no longer do. I do not trust their now Chinese components in the slightest. I now use and recommend Aisin timing belt kits. They use the original Japanese timing components and the oem belt.
Hello! I have a 2000 Subaru Forester 2.5l that stopped running due to timing belt being drove way past when it should have been changed. When I went to do the timing so I could replace the whole timing belt kit I couldn’t because a good 10 inches of teeth wore down completely so it wouldn’t turn while trying to rotate crankshaft. Please tell me there’s a solution to this ? I’d appreciate your time if you could help me out. Thanks
For those wondering about the tools used for this job, this is what I used in the video. You can complete the job with other brand tools, just showing what I used personally
The electric ratchet is a Snap-on CTR761B.
A set of 3/8" drive metric deep and shallow impact sockets.
A 22mm socket for the crank bolt.
A 1/2" breaker bar.
A prybar.
A 3/8" drive ratchet.
Hose clamp pliers.
A 3/8" torch wrench, a Snap-on ATECH2FR100B.
A small telescoping inspection mirror.
A spill-free funnel.
- Snap-on CTR761B - store.snapon.com/CTR761B-Series-14-4-V-Ratchets-3-8--14-4-V-MicroLithium-3-8-Drive-Cordless-Ratchet-Kit-P884777.aspx
- Matco/ Silver Eagle SBPSE436P - discontinued. Alternate. - ADV - SBP426V - www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/SBP426V/3-8-DRIVE-ADV-42-PIECE-METRIC-SAE-6-POINT-IMPACT-SOCKET-SET/
- Snap-on 22mm 6 point shallow socket - TWM22 - store.snapon.com/Shallow-mm-chrome-Socket-Metric-Shallow-22-mm-6-Point-P632202.aspx
- Snap-on 1/2" breaker bar - SHN36 -store.snapon.com/Breaker-Bars-1-2--1-2-Drive-Soft-Grip-Handle-Breaker-Bar-P813610.aspx
- Snap-on prybar 24" - SPBS24A - store.snapon.com/Striking-Prybars-Prybar-Striking-24--P884980.aspx
- Snap-on long handle 3/8" ratchet - FL80 - store.snapon.com/Dual-80-174-Technology-chrome-3-8--3-8-Drive-Dual-80-Technology-Long-Handle-Ratchet-P646273.aspx
- Bluepoint hose pliers - HCP9 - store.snapon.com/Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Corbin-Heater-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Blue-Point--P635770.aspx
- Snap-on 3/8" torque wrench - ATECH2FR100B - store.snapon.com/TechAngle-174-Models-2-Accuracy-Ratcheting-Flex-Head-3-8-Drive-TechAngle-reg-Flex-Head-Torque-Wrench-5-ndash-100-ft-lb--P759379.aspx
- Blue-Point telescoping inspection mirror - UIM325 - store.snapon.com/Mirrors-Telescoping-Mirror-Inspection-Telescoping-3-1-4-Mirror-Blue-Point--P636582.aspx
- Lisle spill-free funnel - 24680 - www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500725449&sr=8-3&keywords=spill-free+funnel
Where did that pin come from the you pulled out at 15:30
+Joshua Felty the timing belt tensioner is a loaded hydraulic ram essentially. The tensioner is locked in place with the pin out of the box. You set your timing then pull the pin to let the tensioner do its job.
MrSubaru1387 i bless the Lotd God of israel for you for sharing this priceless information and taking your very valuable time may his face shine upon you and may you find to know the love of his son yahushua Jesus thank you my brother
A quick question did you take off the bottom left pulley be for removing the timing belt tensioner? As I have the older style tensioner can I do this without pinning the tensioner back? Thanks great vids btw
Yes, facing the engine, the lower left idler pulley is removed first. Even with the old style tensioner, you must compress it or replace it to reset the belt.
Quit apologizing so much! Hands down one of the best timing belt/water pump videos on RUclips. Easy, straight forward, with some text assist. I dont have to do this job yet but i figure id get ahead of it. Subd
I think I'll have a talk with my mechanic; you took 16:5 min to do the job. He is charging me for 5 hours... Thanks, man; no need for apologies. Your video is great, clean, to the point and very understandable.
I think a lot of it is cut, done this a few times its like 3-4hours.
@@nihonkokusai - It was supposed to be funny, nihonkokusai! Thanks, anyway.
excellent job with everything. I particularly liked the economy of style, the absence of unnecessary chichat which clutters up most videos. Even though I am a experienced mechanic I did like the nifty snap on tools which really made the job fly. I guess I will have to call the snap on truck to pay me an expensive visit.
+Hugh Owens I'm glad that you enjoyed the video. 👍
+MrSubaru1387 new tools are always a good idea 💡 lol
HEY what's the name of the tool your using 2 take the bolts off?
+Anthony Russo Snap-on CTR761B cordless ratchet.
For realz! Thanks for not talking!
Man, Don't ever apologize for putting your work out there to help people.
Thank you. This is the best Subaru timing belt video I've ever seen.
+SavageOutdoors glad you enjoyed it
im replacing my water pump and timing belts/pulleys next weekend. this video literally will help so much. subaru wanted 1500$ to do this job 1100 for parts and 400 for labour. i decided ill buy the parts and do it my self. parts cost me 250$ thats a whole lot better then 1500$. thanks again for the video atleast i have something to refer to if any problems occur.
+RJ Gemmell awesome! Glad to help!
That was super impressive to watch. One hand at times - holy crap. Man that was awesome. Thanks for the detailed info.
Great video! It took me almost an entire day to do this with my dad and a mechanic friend letting me use a spot at his shop with his tools. I had an 07 WRX and this was a hell of a job but I remember the crooks at dealer wanted almost two grand for the parts and labor. One thing I could add for others is if you’re going to replace the water pump, might as well connect a water Line hose to reservoir (turbo models only) and flush out the old coolant from system (we just had the motor run after belt was changed and kept water going until it was flushed clear). Also used the Subaru green coolant and the conditioner, removed the air bubbles, the car ran like a champ! Keep up the good work!
Having the right tools makes it a lot easier.
Excellent video, no talk, all work!!!
All skill!
Thank you. 👍🏻
Another GREAT video man. Best "how to" videos out there. No fluff or BSing with a selfie cam about what your cat ate for breakfast for the first 15 minutes of the video.. Just step by step goodness and great camera work done with proper tools!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻
seizethecarp 😂👍
Doing my first timing belt and water pump on my '03 Bugeye WRX. Thanks once again for being the best source for subaru repairs!
@@AndrewB23 I made my own and it worked just fine
This is the best guide available at the moment. Well worth turning the engine over by hand before putting it all back together though! Love seeing these videos to check what I'm in for, and spot any tools I might need or hangups before I get there. I got mine in a week.
+Lee Davison glad you enjoyed the video.
Super video. Best I've seen. To the point , no adlibbing, no profanity, very professional and easy to understand. Look forward to seeing additional how to videos. Super job.
+Kendall Robinson thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
great vid mate. I called around the dealers here - no one wants to do the job properly (i.e. just change the belt and 'check' the WP). I may have to do this myself! The only thing i would add to any belt change is always rotate the engine twice by hand, even when sure of the marks, to ensure no binding/clash of valves & when u go thru 2 phases of the crank to recheck marks. Again, great straight forward vid - it helps alot.
+joe amin also good to replace crank and cams seals.
MrSubaru1387 dang. more stuff. thanks for the heads up. i take it's not to hard? yoink and tap on with an appropriate sized socket?
+utubeski42 basically.
Just did my nieces 98 Legacy watching this video..order same kit and it went flawlessly. Thank you very much for posting this..excellent detail.
+Mike Reiber awesome. Glad to help. 👍
this is far and away the best vid on this - I like the written steps(instead of the grunts and mumbling on most) also good steady camera - most guys hold camera with one hand and try to work with the other. Spastics!
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻
Amazing job. I'm amazed you did it all with one hand.
+Christopher McGuire tripod my friend. Mostly.
Thanks Rob great video
My daughter has just been quoted $1360.00 Australian at the dealer for this job (timing belt and idlers) without replacing the water pump the car is 5yrs old with 57,000 km and was due the E service 60 months or 125,000 km. Now I will do it all myself, thank you once again........................
You're welcome. 👍🏻
I am working on 2008 Subaru impreza with EJ20 DOHC, the water pump is OK but the gasket is leaking too much,
I bought the gasket from the dealer and all I need right now is to put everything back in place
thank you very much for all information and torque specs especially 😊
+thesniperofcs glad to help 👍
Had my uncle put a timing belt on to 40 mins and he is a subaru mechanic 97 Subaru outback and it was easy and still driving it for the past 8 years
Great video, like the style, simple straight forward, no music
+Ross Eryn glad you enjoyed the video.
awesome video man. i like the real world feel. thats how most of us work on our cars
+Frank Aranda Reviews glad you enjoyed.
This video is excellent. It gave me the courage to go ahead and buy the pump and belt and give 'er a go.I've always wondered how replacing a timing belt would be, and I guess I'm going to find out.
Glad to help 👍🏻
thank you very much. And you net guys don't realize how much you help us shade tree old timers on these newer cars. How great is that!!! Vlad
Glad to help. 👍
Smokín Job. Just got the kit and headed to the garage to do it. I like the crank pulley trick and am pleased to see they generally come off without too much hassle. Pitter Patter....
+mmullaley glad to help!
I took it apart in about 40 minutes...had allot of rust on the belt tensioner for the AC and had to use a cold chisel the knock them loose...worked. I was hoping the ticking I had was tensioner on timing belt but it's an engine knock all the way...so I'll be needing a decent 2.5L....hard to find around here...sucks.
+mmullaley dang. Sorry to hear that.
Thank you for making this video. I'm in the process of getting a BG5 wagon soon and have started doing more research about this model.
Thank you for this video I know what I'm doing when I get my car home.
Thank you for this video. You like what you do. I see the dedication mechanics have to put into their work. Applauses to them 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
+CHRISTIAN ALMANZA you're welcome. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Awesome job! I have a lexus ls430 2001 with 360,000 miles. Every 100,000 miles I have the timing belt pulleys serpentine belt spark plugs waterpump thermostat all replaced. My lexus ls430 2001 is a tank many mechanics said it would easily go over 500,000 miles it you keep up the maintenance.
This is by far the best vid,yet..this will help me with my single cam.2.5..
I do have a single cam timing belt video.
I've successfully replaced the timing belt and your video was very helpful! I would just add a few remarks:
- After you've installed the timing belt, you should crank the engine over twice to make sure all the marks are still in alignment.
- You should lubricate the crank bolt with engine oil. It's also advisable to replace this bolt.
- The tightening torque of the tensioner I've found in another sources is 39 Nm (29 ft lb).
+Translations Polish correct. The Subaru factory manual state 25ft.lbs on the tensioner. I believe that the 20ft.lbs was a spec included in the paperwork with this particular Gates kit.
those weird one handed shakey moments? yeah don't worry those are great perspective shots of what people actually can see of some of this stuff when taking it apart. especially when bent over the vehicle ripping on a breaker bar... and i might pay a shop to do this after just replacing cv axles. Excellent video!
Thanks for the guide, it's really well done. I want to do the camshaft seals and I'm worried about the cams going out of alignment when I replace the seals. How do I ensure it stays aligned and how do I get it lined up again if it does spin out of alignment? Thanks
Fantastic video. Thanks for taking the time to record and post. Planning to tackle my EJ20G jdm forester Tbelt and Pullets in the next couple weeks. This will help a lot!
+Steve, Jen Q,P Nelson thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks! you have some skills. Loved the camera work, editing, and captioning. well done.
+T Robinson glad you enjoyed the video!
Thank you very very much. I need'd a video on that part. Bless you and your family. Happy New Year's.
Very easy job, thank you for filming, the Honda accord 99 is hard
Just a video of how to do the job without needing to earn your 15 minutes of fame. Thank you, great video!
Great piece of video. thumbs up ... very informative !!! Liked the way you have given titles, mentioning every parts and what you do. Many people like me, can learn from it
+Karthik Pongiannan glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
gran video informativo.....las imagenes hablan por si solas....great instructional video...
MrSubaru1387 should be MrSubaru1! What a great video. Thank you so much. While it is not my model 2007 Outback the ease and knowledge you have is great. Thanks for sharing. I like the part where you apologize for your arm/elbow being in the way. Not to worry, much better than watching those plumbing videos when you get a shot of 'plumber crack'!
+Darrin McNeice haha. You're welcome. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Sir, that was an excellent and informative video. I have a new to me 2011 Outback with 150K and no history of timing belt replacement. Need to get this done. I am capable of doing this myself...just don't have the time. We have a local shop and their cost is $582.00 (the dealer wants $1,400). I believe I will let the local shop do it. But...I do wish you r shop was close by! Thanks again for a great video!
+Flyboytr you're welcome. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
Dude, parts are under $250 if you do it yourself (assumes you have the tools and a place to do it).
Great video, straight forward. any recommendations for a stuck crank shaft pulley? seems you pull it out with a little work but mine will not budge what so ever.
This was a perfectly laid out how to video. I =eally have not seen a better one. I just bought a 1998 Subaru legacy wagon and I didn't know about this engines rep for head gasket failure. So it looks like I'm going to have to do this job. I bought it and it worked fine the first day then it started overheating. Then the ignition went out and it died in the intersection so after I figure out why it won't start I am going to tackle the overheating. I brought it up to running temp and checked the upper and lower hoses and the lower was cool so I bought a thermostat. If that don't work I'll check for gasket signs. Any advice you can give?
Fabulous video for a lot of reasons, good editing, no chit chat, great angles, etc. well done. I can't get the damn belt on and lined up to save my life on a 2011 Forester XT 2.5 turbo. Passenger side cams keep spinning and belt keeps falling off one spot as soon as I get another spot on. x/ grrrr.... It's my first timing belt so I am going through the the noob pains.
Definitely gets easier the second, third, fourth time. Lol.
Mr Subaru, how much was Snap-on asking for the torque wrench? Secondly I have an 2002 SOHC.Does the belt kit on those have the white marks on the belt to line everything up?
+William Ryan the 3/8" 5-100ft lb ATECH torque wrench lists for $509.95
Yes, the SOHC belts are marked.
Thanks Subaru. Wrench is out of my range but its nice.
Love your videos. Maybe I'm doing this soon. I have a knocking noise coming from the right side. I'm hoping it the tensioner. So I check n maybe replacing it n other pulleys. I feel confident to try watching this. As I did changing my clutch, flywheel and oil separator plates.
You made that look soooo Easy lol. the Driver side bottom cam is under tension and I generally have to fight with it. However, I'm going to try this method. took the front off because I thought the Cam seals were leaking. looks like I was wrong so now I get to reassemble the front of the motor so that I can take the Tranny out next.
i love your tools please post all the name and brands please
there is 24 dislikes those are haters and dump respect my friend i love people and mechanics like you you work smart and make it seems uncomplicated sorry for my English
please post again all the tools you was using i gonna buy all of them
you have new follower nowim number 5001
The electric ratchet is a Snap-on CTR761B. A set of 3/8" drive metric deep and shallow impact sockets. A 22mm socket for the crank bolt. A 1/2" breaker bar. A prybar. A 3/8" drive ratchet. Hose clamp pliers. Needle nose pliers. A 3/8" torch wrench, a Snap-on ATECH2FR100B. A small telescoping inspection mirror. That's pretty much is.
Thank you Bro
Do you have a video on how to remove the crank pulley without using the starter method? I am afraid to try it. lol I am putting a UD pulley on my SVX in the spring and looking for a way to do it easily without much risk. Like putting a screw driver in the flex plate or something like that, but I've never done it. Going to do the idler pulley at the same time because it costs like $20.
I don't. Sorry.
Dang. Nobody on RUclips does. lol everyone of them is the starter method. Even doing that don't you have to lock it by sticking something in the flex plate anyways?
Put the car into 5th gear, apply the brake (by using someone's help or by putting sth heavy on the pedal) and loosen the crank bolt. Pull hardly and abruptly, just as an impact wrench would do. Use a long extension, of course.
The video was very helpful and made the job much easier. Thanks for your help.
+Kris Nietert glad to help.
Thank you! How did you stop the crank from turning when you were torquing the crank bolt?
PLEASE,
if you drive a Subaru wrx this IS the video you need! just recommend a cam locking tool ("23 company tool").
be extra careful with the water pump bolts!!!
Nice job, thanks for taking the time to do this. A real confidence booster.
+Paul L in Dallas glad to help.
thanks for the video. I appreciate your work. You did the timing belt with relative ease. thanks again
+ejmagras glad you enjoyed it, glad to help.
THE BEST EJ25 DOHC VIDEO.... VERY VERY GOOD.. THANK YOU
+waikwong711 glad to help.
This video was made almost 5 years ago now, how is this water pump/timing kit holding up? Considering buying the same kit because its time for me to do these maintenance items for my '98 Legacy Outback.
I sold the car. The guy with it has had no issues, as far as I've heard. I'd highly recommend Aisin. All OE components in their kits. Gates kits have started to use cheap Chinese components.
i live in my subaru legacy 2003. i absolutely cannot afford a mechanic. fucking thank you for these videos. i am savvedddd
Awesome video!!!! Company 23 make some good specially tools for subarus. They make a holding tools for the timing gears to prevent them from moving when removing the belt thy are awesome. If your interested just give you that info. Can't wait for the next video. Maybe a interior video of the SVX?
Yea, I'm a aware. Own quite a bit of Company 23 stuff. Just try to shoot my videos without using them so people without specialty tools can see that they don't necessarily need them to do the job.
Your car is a standard shift. Clearance on the bump guard over the belt pulley is .050 inches. (50/1000)
I'm so jealous of your tools.
Dude no apologies needed you are a true Champion, well done, this is a super, helpful video, thanks for the help : )
I had to pause the video and wash my arms off after watching the coolant bath ..ack .😄
Nice video, I really liked the way you removed the crank pulley bolt. I have two questions, how did you tighten the crank pulley bolt? and do you think I can do this job without removing the radiator? Once again, thank you so much for sharing.
+Oscar Monge tightened the crank pulley by wedging a prybar in the flywheel to keep the engine from turning. I do have a Subaru specific tool that holds the crank pulley as well. Yes, the job can be done with the radiator in place
damn that snap on ratchet is dope af
Nice work, it would be really helpful if you could put the bolt or nut size on the screen when you are taking it out. THANK YOU!!!
Crank pulley removal tool?? EHHH... who needs it when you're a REAL SUBIE MAN.. Get err done... cool trick def usable in a pinch.. well done my MAN.. lmao credit.. and thank you for the detailed info!
And how do you tight the crank pulley again?
@@noventay4 Good question.
Wish I could do this on my own but I might break my hawkeye sti :( badass video but not sure if I can do the job on my own yet. But with your video I’ll fo it slowly and my car won’t be moving anywhere until I finish the job lol.
Not sure if I’ll get a response this many years later but just curious, is radiator removal essential or just makes life easier? Cheers
Far out. I watched this then got a pump and got to it... everything went so smoothly and I got to the point of putting the timing belt back on. I was pulling and stretching the belt by hand and made the right hand side cam move a quarter turn. I managed to pull it back into place but wrestled for 30 minutes and had to give up for the night.
THEN I watched the rest of the video past the point I was at and you pulled a pin from your new tensioner. I am just replacing a waterpump and seal, so my tensioner had no pin and is clearly the thing holding me back from getting the belt back on.
I hope I haven't bent any valves, and i'll see if I can finish the job tomorrow! I hope I can push the hydraulic part of the tensioner in and put a pin of some kind in it.
+Steve Rand +Steve Rand yes. If you reuse the tensioner, you must reset it in a vise. You must press the tensioner in slowly or you will damage the tensioner. Should slowly press it back in in no less than 15mins. Use a small Allen key or drill bit to lock it into place.
I left my tensioner undone for almost a day, then pushed it in fairly slowly with a G-clamp and yeah, used a small allen key. It went on relatively easily after that, but the SOHC engine I have seems to not have as much slack on the timing system than your DOHC did. I had to lever the bottom with a screwdriver over the waterpump to even get it started. The left pulley off gives a tiny bit of help, but not enough.
Anyway, all back together, just need to put the radiator pipes on and fill it back up. HOpefully this was the source of my waterfall!
be carfull its much easier to screw up the dohc your marks have to be exact ,not a hair off
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
+Jen Lucille glad to help!
After this process my cooling system is not holding pressure. Does not overheat, no visible coolant leaks, but the top hose is always squishy when hot. Anything to worry about?
Thanks for the vids! Helping a ton to restore a 97 I got for the winter.
If the system isn't building any pressure, I'd suspect the radiator cap. The hoses should remain semi pliable.
Hello I’ve a 02 forester that’s done 125000 and had its belt change at 97000, it’s been 7 years now since it was done do you recommend I get it done soon as or do I have a it of time thanks.
Good lord, this was a major help
Very nice job all the best from Poland
its so nice to watch your videos, i'm always learning with them, btw you have anything on how to replace wiper blades on a b9 tribeca? take care!!
+Felipe Martinez glad you enjoy the videos. No, I actually don't. That said, they're all pretty much the same, push the tab on the blade near the arm and it will slide off.
Thank you, it will be very helpfull for my 125ch 2.0 Impreza 1997.
Hi man!!! The most nice vídeo ever!!! Please, If don't need to replace the water pump, do I must remove the radiator anyway? Thanks a lot from Brazil!
Hey there, a good tip. I have seen a few times Subaru water pumps siezing and causing timing belt failure, expensive repair! the last car had only 75000k's but the cam belt was overdue time wise. 100 000 km or 5 years. Water pump is such an easy job when the cam belt is removed. Just do it! cheers
Thank you great information without all the chitchat
You're welcome. 👍🏻
nice video you are a very smart men ,, one question ,it is the same procedure and method for replace a timing chain ? thank you
+Jhony Ramirez no. It's close, but quite different. I have video on timing chain.
That 5ftlbs is no joke...cracked my tstat housing....need a 3/8 drive torque haha.
Hey Mr Subaru, my 2008 Forester XT 2.5 DOHC blew the head gasket. I’ve talked to a few local Subaru specialists and I’ve heard that the odds are I will need to replace the block or the head when they get in there. I was quoted $5,000 for the head gasket, $8-$12,000 if it needs a new block.
The idea of spending a few thousand just to find out if I’m throwing the car away is eating at me. Any suggestions on how to guess if it’s worth attempting? I love this car, and would happily pay $5,000 to get her running top notch again, not interested in $12,000 at all though. Thanks for your time!
Your videos are the only ones I feel really help to a job your self, is this the same procedure on the 2001 wrx engine with the coil pack been to the right??
+Ricer_forestersti yes. Should be the same.
Is procedure the same for a 2000 Subaru Outback Legacy?
Similar. I have a video for the SOHC engine.
Thank you for sharing this.
These cars are remarkably easy to work on. The timing markings seem to be plain as day, with a lot of tolerance so there is really no chance of messing the job up. Nice tools btw.
I Do have a serious question though.
I have a 2005 Subaru legacy and want to swap the engine and transmission from the gt model because its turbo charged.
Reason why I'm asking this, Is instead of ripping into my engine to make it able to use a turbo with out destroying the engine. I plan to just replace it with an engine that was built to use turbo.
Will the engine and transmission fit(I know if it does I need to retro fit and install the clutch pedal and change the plate for the shifter)? Will I need to buy a new computer for the car?
If you could answer any of that I'd appreciate it.
+rust8infinite physically, it will bolt straight in. I can't remember exactly, but may need to notch the cross member for the down pipe to fit. I know it has to be modified on imprezas, can't recall on Legacys. You'll need to swap wiring, ecu, fuel system components, etc. Very involved job. Not something to attempt without a solid/experienced background. I'd recommend swapping to an EZ36R rather than an EJ255. Easier swap, and more reliable engine. Just my opinion.
Fantastic video. Thanks! How long would you say that took in reality?
Awesome video that snap on electric ratchet is sick!
+Matty Z oh yea. One of my favorite tools.
Thanks for the vid, it was a huge help with my car
+Masada The Ultra Violent Beast glad to help 👍
What an awesome job!!!! wanted to ask you a question, if my timing belt broke then does that mean that my engine is toast or can it be fixed? not sure if the valves are bent. Thanks in advance.
+balabay77 really depends on rpm at the time of breakage. It can destroy it, bent valves, or you can luck up. I bought this 98 LGT with a jumped timing belt due to a bad idler pulley. I re-timed the engine and it ran fine. Did a cylinder leakage test and compression test with no lose. I was very lucky.
Thanks for fast response, greatly appreciated. it happened on the freeway so most likely the valves are bent but since i got nothing to loose, i will try to crank/rotate the engine by hand to see if there is any binding/ clash of valves. Thank you sir for the video, very informative and straight to the point. Cheers.
+balabay77 glad you found it helpful. Fingers crossed for your engine.
Excellent!! Liked and subscribed! Is it ok to only have one of each marks line up on the drivers side cam pulleys, where there is two marks side by side? I hope it's not to confusing. Thank you.
Yes, that is worded a bit confusingly. Could you send me a picture of the issue? MrSubaru1387@gmail.com
What a perfectly informative video. You did a perfect job, I mean every step. I feel confident I can take this task in, even without a timing light. lol!
+Frank Rizzo glad to help. Good, a timing light has no use on this car anyway.
good video I'm considering purchasing a 1999 outback with a bad water pump
+Greg D fairly easy job as long as they didn't overheat it and blow the head gaskets.
Just a question ..At 7:45 the bolt holding the belt pulley to the block is set back to a point that you can hardly see the head of the bolt. The belt must put a hell of an off centre load on that bearing.
Hi, really good video. When tightening the crank pulley to 130 ft lbs, what do you do to stop the engine turning over so you can tighten the bolt? Do you just put it in gear and put the handbrake on?
+Jordan P you have to have the crankshaft pulley holding tool, or you have to place a prybar into the flywheel/flexplate to hold the engine in place.
excellent video..looks like I get to do one of these this weekend..thanks
Cary Williams thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
Hi how long has your subaru's engine been running? I have a 2012 forester here in Brazil I hope I do not have to change the water pump, and it's very hard work here in Brazil and it's very difficult to find parts. Your video was really good.
+rafael odenir water pump and timing belt change is recommended every 90k miles or 144k km.
Okay, thank you your information is very valuable to me.
Did a great job with the video!
+Kart Drifter thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
Seriously, really good. I feel like i can totally do this myself (I can't) but the video is that great
wow, great video! I was thinking of getting an 04 outback LL Bean, and wanted to see how a timing belt replacement goes on a boxer engine. Do you have any opinions on the 04 LL bean? I read reviews online that said they are far less problematic than the 4 cylinder version.
+megakiller999 I daily drove an 02 L.L.Bean. It has 275,000 miles on it. Has been an excellent car. Stopped driving it due to a head gasket failure. But, at 275,000 miles. I can't complain one bit. Will be back driving it once I have time to repair it.
Excellent, very useful. You make it look easy. Question: Gates vs Subaur parts...equal confidence? (Some videos showing China made parts in the Gates kit}
+William Hart I used to use Gates kits. I no longer do. I do not trust their now Chinese components in the slightest. I now use and recommend Aisin timing belt kits. They use the original Japanese timing components and the oem belt.
Hello! I have a 2000 Subaru Forester 2.5l that stopped running due to timing belt being drove way past when it should have been changed. When I went to do the timing so I could replace the whole timing belt kit I couldn’t because a good 10 inches of teeth wore down completely so it wouldn’t turn while trying to rotate crankshaft. Please tell me there’s a solution to this ? I’d appreciate your time if you could help me out. Thanks