All bolts 28.9 ft/lbs but little idler is 18.5 ft/lb. Gap between belt and guide is 1mm which is 0.040” (40 thow) not 20. Loctite 243 is not studlock and is used where you can still remove bolts with normal tools but it prevents loosening due to vibration. Supposedly it’s not required though. Great video and not filmed at night which is a plus.
This is the most informed, well explained, and best Subaru timing belt video out there. After this, even my grandma knows how to change Subaru timing belt. Thank you.
I wish I knew that I needed the cam stop tool b4 I started. I did it without the tool but you really helped me out with the belt guides. I kept getting the timing wrong until I took them off. Definitely not easy but you helped me out. Thanks for the video
Thank you very much Sir. Detailed and informative, i had the tool already but like everyone else... terrified to proceed witht the belt change, i watched your video as i did my belt job, pause play, pause play... awesomeness.. too easy guys... just "Do It!"
Before putting the belt in make sure to mark the side of the belt, makes it easier to see if the belt marks line up with the cam gear and definitely turn over the the engine by hand until the cam marks line up not the belt
You shoulda showed when you pull the tensioner pin out. And also shoulda shown when you putting the timing belt covers back on AND which bolts go where when doing it. Alotta people attempt to do this and don’t organize the bolts when they take it apart and end up forgetting exactly where they go. Just like I guy I bought mine from. I bought it not running cuz he had attempted to replace the timing belt, disassembled it, and got intimidated and quit. But unfortunately he threw all the bolts in one bag. And it sucks cuz I never got to see it assembled to know where the bolts go. And I can’t find ANY videos that show it. Please make another video and show this next time. Thanks. Great video by the way 🤙
Thought you might’ve pulled some threads on the upper right 12 mm pulley bolt pretty positive it’s 18.1 foot pounds and you mentioned in the video that it’s 28.9 got lucky!
Man, I’ve watched a few videos of this job and the speciality tool makes it way easier. Gonna do this job coming summer and this video will definitely be my guide. Great content. Your oil pan videos are sick too.
I do work on high-performance cars and aircraft. Your videos are incredibly thorough and efficient - you don't waste time, but nothing is skipped. Exactly what I need to get work done without wasting time and making mistakes. Impressive. Keep making these videos, they are invaluable. I wish you worked on aircraft engines, too . . .
I just "stumbled" onto this video. Damn. My 7th gen civic is a walk in the park compared to this. Good to see different timing belt changes on diff cars.
I’m at 77,000 right now, I’ve owned the car this whole time. I’m just beginning to do slight reliability upgrades and the timing belt and water pump is what I’m thinking about doing next.
Thanks for your vivid and meticulous videos. I’ve always been interested in Subaru’s and I finally have the opportunity to say I own one. Keep making these videos. Highly appreciated, I’m also a DIYER.
Thank you for all your videos! Just did the timing belt on my 06 legacy and your videos helped me a lot! Also installed a getadomtune cooling mod. Thanks for explaining the cylinder 4 cooling flow problem so thoroughly! Cheers!
After you pull the pin, wait about a minute, then rotate the crankshaft two turns clockwise. Check all the timing marks, they should all line up where they were when you installed the belt. Don't worry that the lines on the belt do not line up through.
Just did the job with a cheaper Amazon one (not the one of Subaru only store) and I would highly recommend getting a better one. It popped out from the cams fell on the floor and the alan bolt portion snapped off lol luckily I had a mig welder to weld it back on but you get what you pay for
I never got the cool timing belt spacer tool in my gates kit. But you can make a spacer tool by taking one of the thin cardboard boxes that the new pulleys come in and cut a strip with scissors then fold it over once. This will oddly be about 1mm in thickness which you can verify with a caliper / micrometer if needed. I haven't gotten the cam holder tool yet, but you can hold the cams in place with 2 breaker bars and 10mm hex sockets. One pain in the butt thing is if your car has single or dual avcs (ej 255 or 257 depending on the year). It is because the cams may not line up exactly like the non avcs engines. The cams may slip back like you say in your video and it does that very quickly and can slice your hands up because you are essentially trying to balance an egg on its top which is compressing the valves open.
Brilliant presentation! What was your job in a past life? Thanks for sharing you experience!! (And I’m hearing your hydrogeo background in your outtro now 😂😂.. in any case your presentation was very exceptional Sir!
Awesome guide! Could you make a video on how to bleed the hydraulic tensioner? To make sure there is no air bubble I bought on from Subaru and wanted to make sure I don’t have air bubbles in mine
My pistons are at mid stroke, I lined it up with the mark on the bottom of the oil pump and above the crankshaft. My questions is I need to time my left driver side intake and exhaust camshafts but I feel resistance on both of them? Should I lightly push pressure to make them turn all the way so they can line up properly? The resistance could be from the tensioner spring and my driver side camshafts are off by 180 degrees. Intake double line is at the top of the intake camshaft and the exhaust double lines are at the bottom of the exhaust camshaft. so what do you think? I need your advise or any other subie owners that have dealt with this. I don’t want to bend any valves
Luke where have you beenI've been waiting for more Subaru vids I haven't seen or heard anything from you in about a month please come back we need more videos videoslove you showing us how to install the engine back into the car thank you
One thing you skipped was mentioning the water pump. If you are doing a 100k replacement of the belt, it just makes sense to change the water pump, since the belt drives it and you are in that far.
Hey Luke the video is great! I have a question. I have a ‘04 forester XT EJ 25 and am trying to align the cam notches on left head. How can I align the notches and turn both cams without damaging valves?
Best way is follow the Factory Service Manual. The intake and exhaust cams each need to be rotated in a specific direction; one is clockwise and the other counterclockwise - then lock them in place and install the belt.
Great video and helped me out a lot, But I have an issue, I'm currently doing my timing belt and all was going well until the thread stripped on the tensioner Pulley, any suggestions?
Thank you for your video. I have a bug eye bought in 2001 Questions: On my old EJ20, there's a way longer bolt than the one you show on the lower red cog gear, plus a washer behind it is it my mistake mixing them up? Also the idler pulley that came with the gates kit is slightly different, the seal of the bearing isn't as deep making the original bolt shorter. I have replaced that bolt with one that is 1/2 longer. The old one wouldn't even catch on the threads. Now when I took down all the pulleys I made sure to put the bolts back in their original spot. At least I think I did. Just need to make sure. Thanks for any feedback
Something I noticed from the video that was missing and I wonder why . More than happy to supply video to show what I mean . So long story short I found before putting the belt on to have for example your rhs intake cam 1/2 a tooth out so that when you fit the belt , it will allow you to taught the belt as you go . Same form lhs intake , half a tooth anti-clockwise or just before 12 . Just more nit picking than anything . The above is something I’ve learned from a couple of hundred timing jobs . Can link video here if needed
Will be doing this very soon will def get the tool , I might also have to replace the cam seals any tips on getting the cam gears off, also considering co 23 tools to get that job done this will be done with the engine in the car. Love the videos great stuff.
Thanks man! It’s pretty easy with that tool. I used to do it super ghetto and use two Allen keys strapped together, or just tried to do it and had the cam gear snap back on my over and over. 🤣🤣🤣
So great to see your channel. I am in Chico. Are you in the area? My son and I have been working on his Impreza WRX 2009 and we can't get it running. We need help. I would love your perspective.
wow, extremely great guide! Do you have one for removing/installing the covers while inside the engine? I'm about to check if my timing belt skipped a tooth or two on my EJ20X Legacy. I'm going to use the guide to see if everything lines up, well done! I'll post the results soon.
Sorry if it was already answered below but did a quick check and didn't see the question. But is it possible to do that timing belt replacement and water pump without pulling the engine out? Maybe just dropping the radiator. Would that give enough clearance?
Hi, Great video, do you have any early engine build videos which use the early type tensioner? That loctite looks like conterfit stuff, far too runny, genuine loctite 243 does not run like that down the thread. Thanks
I just had my water pump, and timing belt (pulleys, idlers) on my 1998 Legacy 2.5 (N.A.) The engine is louder since I got it back. More hi-pitched. Not crazy loud, just not the same. And it has a vibration at idle (in P and D) The garage owner said there's no way the symptoms are related to the timing belt - says that a misaligned timing belt would cause Tachometer needle to stutter non-stop. (tach needle is pretty steady) He won't look at it. he says the vibration is caused by the driveshaft. Until I replace the driveshaft he won't look at anything else. But doesn't make sense, driveshaft wouldn't cause vibration at a stop ? I have three days left to dispute the charge ($2,400 Canadian$) Should I bite the bullet and pay another garage to inspect the timing belt install?
Yep. It can be done for sure. Just need to unbolt the engine mounts and pitch stop so you can raise the engine as high as possible. But I got to be honest, I’ve never done it. Good luck. Cheers! 🤙
OK so what do u do when u align those marks perfectly like u did then u do 2 full rotations of the engine just to have the driver upper cam gear only to be half a tooth off. All other gears aligned perfectly, and would that cause a po011 and po021 over advance timing codes cause that's what I'm getting rt now
Did this a few months ago. Finally got the car back together and ran a compression test. No compression whatsoever on the driver side. Everything lines up perfectly. Pistons weren't touching. Any way something could have messed up? I really don't think I bent valves but we'll sadly be the motor to see what the issue is. Would appreciate a reply! Thanks man.
Hmm, sorry to hear buddy. I’d get some compressed air and run a leak down test - this will help you narrow down where exactly you’re loosing the combustion pressure. You’ll be able to hear it coming out the valves, out the bottom, which means it’s the rings, or out the head gasket sealing area. It’s got to be one of those three spots. Good to verify which one first, that way you know all your effort is going to pay off. Cheers and good luck!!! 👍
I was way too scared to do a timing belt and was so ready to take it to the dealer. Now I'm not so sure... lining up marks with tons of little helpers and holders kinda looks a lot easier than torching rusted strut bolts, extracting stripped caliper bolts or dropping fuel tanks..
Hi Luke Great video, very easy to understand step by step! I would like some advice on something if you could help me. I am a qualified technician and I have a timing belt job booked on a 1998 gc8 wrx in a few weeks time and I was informed by a Subaru shop here in Australia that I should not touch the cam and crank shaft seals if they are not leaking. Why is that but what’s so hard about doing them? If there not leaking when I do the timing belt what if they leak a few months later? I don’t get it. Also with the cam locking tool, would that also work on that engine? I believe it should since the engine is a ej205 right? The Amazon website says it will not fit the car when I went to purchase it. Any help would be much appreciated Thankyou Luke.
Hi, I agree with your logic! It’s not likely the seals will start leaking soon if they’re dry, but it is a good idea to replace them if the timing belt is being replaced. Also good to consider the mileage, that can be a big factor too. As for using the cam lock tool on your engine, yes it will definitely work. Amazon but think it’s a different engine due to USDM vs EU and JDM models. It will fit and it makes the job way easier!!! Cheers and good luck!! 👍
What happens if I’m having trouble rotating the crank sprocket to get it to the mark? Feels like resistance. Engine is on the stand and has not been ran yet.
Is it true that the lines on the timing belt only work if belt is installed so the words on the timing belt are readable from the front of the engine? Or does it work both ways?
thank you for the best Subaru content on youtube, your videos help me a lot. one day soon this channel is gonna explode.
Thanks man!!! Awesome feedback! Trying to make the BEST diy videos for our Subie fam. 😁😁😁
Been a while, but I’m back - hope you’re doing well. Cheers!!! 👊
@@SubaruONLY your videos are seriously the perfect companion when trying to do this myself. Thanks for always including the torqe specs!!
Awesome - glad it helped, cheers buddy!!!
All bolts 28.9 ft/lbs but little idler is 18.5 ft/lb. Gap between belt and guide is 1mm which is 0.040” (40 thow) not 20. Loctite 243 is not studlock and is used where you can still remove bolts with normal tools but it prevents loosening due to vibration. Supposedly it’s not required though. Great video and not filmed at night which is a plus.
Hahaha, thanks. Guess lots of people film at night. Thanks for the support!!!
It was the most terrifying start up I’ve ever had but it worked. I can’t thank you enough
Nice - glad it worked out!!!
This is the most informed, well explained, and best Subaru timing belt video out there. After this, even my grandma knows how to change Subaru timing belt. Thank you.
I m from Argentine. I have a impreza wrx ej205, watching this video I could made the special tool to timming belt. Thanks.
Did the water pump and cambelt kit watching this video. Perfect to follow. If you already have experience you will have no dramas.
Your intonation is something that I have to get used to, but the videos are amazing.
Glad you like them!
I wish I knew that I needed the cam stop tool b4 I started. I did it without the tool but you really helped me out with the belt guides. I kept getting the timing wrong until I took them off. Definitely not easy but you helped me out. Thanks for the video
Thank you very much Sir. Detailed and informative, i had the tool already but like everyone else... terrified to proceed witht the belt change, i watched your video as i did my belt job, pause play, pause play... awesomeness.. too easy guys... just "Do It!"
Before putting the belt in make sure to mark the side of the belt, makes it easier to see if the belt marks line up with the cam gear and definitely turn over the the engine by hand until the cam marks line up not the belt
Do I turn the engine over before I pull the pin or after?
You shoulda showed when you pull the tensioner pin out. And also shoulda shown when you putting the timing belt covers back on AND which bolts go where when doing it. Alotta people attempt to do this and don’t organize the bolts when they take it apart and end up forgetting exactly where they go. Just like I guy I bought mine from. I bought it not running cuz he had attempted to replace the timing belt, disassembled it, and got intimidated and quit. But unfortunately he threw all the bolts in one bag. And it sucks cuz I never got to see it assembled to know where the bolts go. And I can’t find ANY videos that show it. Please make another video and show this next time. Thanks. Great video by the way 🤙
This gives me the confidence to do this myself...Sitting @ 81k right now but thanks this is very informative.
Thought you might’ve pulled some threads on the upper right 12 mm pulley bolt pretty positive it’s 18.1 foot pounds and you mentioned in the video that it’s 28.9 got lucky!
Man, I’ve watched a few videos of this job and the speciality tool makes it way easier. Gonna do this job coming summer and this video will definitely be my guide. Great content. Your oil pan videos are sick too.
Thanks man!!! Much appreciated!!! 👊
Please keep up the Subaru content. These videos will be relevant for a long time
So much good information, I'm currently trying to remove my water pump. And have to remove the timing belt. And might as well change the timing belt.
That's the best detailed information ive seen of changing a timing belt replacement of a ej motor, Thankyou.
Hell yea, stoked to hear!!!
Just got my first Subaru and you have had great content to just binge and learn. You’re awesome!!!!
Underrated channel.
Thanks buddy!!! 👊
Been a while, but I’m back - hope you’re doing well. Cheers!!! 👊
Thanks for all the info you give I cant wait to start building my own forester XT! I'll definitely give credit to the subaru god
I do work on high-performance cars and aircraft. Your videos are incredibly thorough and efficient - you don't waste time, but nothing is skipped. Exactly what I need to get work done without wasting time and making mistakes. Impressive. Keep making these videos, they are invaluable. I wish you worked on aircraft engines, too . . .
Haha, I’ve always been interested in aircraft design too. Maybe someday. Never know. Cheers and thanks!!!
I just "stumbled" onto this video. Damn. My 7th gen civic is a walk in the park compared to this. Good to see different timing belt changes on diff cars.
I’m at 77,000 right now, I’ve owned the car this whole time. I’m just beginning to do slight reliability upgrades and the timing belt and water pump is what I’m thinking about doing next.
👌
Thanks for your vivid and meticulous videos. I’ve always been interested in Subaru’s and I finally have the opportunity to say I own one. Keep making these videos. Highly appreciated, I’m also a DIYER.
Thanks! 👊
Thank you for all your videos! Just did the timing belt on my 06 legacy and your videos helped me a lot! Also installed a getadomtune cooling mod. Thanks for explaining the cylinder 4 cooling flow problem so thoroughly! Cheers!
For sure man. Stoked it helped!! Cheers! 🤙
Very good!
But don't forget to pull the pin on the tensioner 🤔
Lol. Yep, that’s what happened on my Legacy (for the previous owner)! That’s how I got it for $500. 👊
After you pull the pin, wait about a minute, then rotate the crankshaft two turns clockwise.
Check all the timing marks, they should all line up where they were when you installed the belt.
Don't worry that the lines on the belt do not line up through.
Good call buddy!!! Thanks and cheers!
😁👍
Just did the job with a cheaper Amazon one (not the one of Subaru only store) and I would highly recommend getting a better one. It popped out from the cams fell on the floor and the alan bolt portion snapped off lol luckily I had a mig welder to weld it back on but you get what you pay for
I like your explanation on the belts change very good work.
how do you not have more subscribers! Thanks and keep the detailed vids coming.
Thanks man! Definitely gonna be making some vids soon. stay tuned. 😁😁😁
Been a while, but I’m back - hope you’re doing well. Cheers!!! 👊
Love the extra details for the install. Good video man.
GREAT video ~ confirmed EVERYthing I already knew CLEARLY. Gonna Follow you for that.
Thanks for taking the time to make these great videos. By the way, you've got a little bit of Christopher Walken going on there.
Thanks again for the help, I'm gonna subscribe, so I can get the help I need in the future, for keeping my new subaru happy.
Hope so - cheers!
I never got the cool timing belt spacer tool in my gates kit. But you can make a spacer tool by taking one of the thin cardboard boxes that the new pulleys come in and cut a strip with scissors then fold it over once. This will oddly be about 1mm in thickness which you can verify with a caliper / micrometer if needed. I haven't gotten the cam holder tool yet, but you can hold the cams in place with 2 breaker bars and 10mm hex sockets. One pain in the butt thing is if your car has single or dual avcs (ej 255 or 257 depending on the year). It is because the cams may not line up exactly like the non avcs engines. The cams may slip back like you say in your video and it does that very quickly and can slice your hands up because you are essentially trying to balance an egg on its top which is compressing the valves open.
Brilliant presentation! What was your job in a past life? Thanks for sharing you experience!! (And I’m hearing your hydrogeo background in your outtro now 😂😂.. in any case your presentation was very exceptional Sir!
Best timing video yet tho I wish it was the FB25 engine
I cannot express how appreciative of your videos. Incredibly clear and precise; thank you!
Thank you! 👍
Excellent video.
I love the tools to hold the left side timing sprockets.
Me too, used to use wrenches and a vice grip clamped down, so much better with this little tool!!! 👊
Thanks a lot for all these videos. By far the most detailed and quality videos I have seen.
Been a while, but I’m back - hope you’re doing well. Cheers!!! 👊
Best video I have seen on this. Thanks for taking the time to make it
Glad it helped. Thanks for taking the time to comment - cheers buddy!!! 👊
Very informative video, well explained and feel more confident doing my son's cambelt on his 96 Bg Subaru legacy.
Learnt alot Thanks.
I ordered your kit after watching your video. Cheers
Nice! Cheers and Happy Holidays!!! 👊
Very clear instructions and very informative! Awesome video! Thanks
Awesome. Cheers and Happy New Year buddy!!!
Awesome guide! Could you make a video on how to bleed the hydraulic tensioner? To make sure there is no air bubble I bought on from Subaru and wanted to make sure I don’t have air bubbles in mine
Very good detailed video Luke! Ill definitely be buying that cam holder tool when the time comes!
It’s a good investment in my opinion. 👍
Yo I learned alot from you and your saving me tons of moola thanks!!!!
thank you for taking your time to make this video its was very helpful
The best ever explanation i ever seen can you please do one for the ej257 ?
This clearance is important if it is as stated 1mm than that is .0.394 of an inch not 0.020 of an inch having said that a great video thank you
Thank you for this information I’m about do this to my 2005 Subaru legacy wagon 2.5gt
your demonstrations are very helpful
Thank you!!! Much appreciated!!! 👊
Been looking for this video for weeks lol
Hope it helps! Cheers 🍻
Thank you for all the knowledge, I will do the same to my 2007 Subaru Impreza
Happy it helps. Cheers!
Thanks for your video step-by-step sharing
HI, I really appreciate all the info in your videos, thank man.
Loves your video! Helps a lot for my first engine build ! Good job man .
Been a while, but I’m back - hope you’re doing well. Cheers!!! 👊
Actually a good guide !
Very good step by step procedures on timing belts process nice men❤️✌️
Thanks buddy - cheers!
I did it without the specialty tool on my 06 sti made it so difficult for me on those cam gears ha
My pistons are at mid stroke, I lined it up with the mark on the bottom of the oil pump and above the crankshaft. My questions is I need to time my left driver side intake and exhaust camshafts but I feel resistance on both of them? Should I lightly push pressure to make them turn all the way so they can line up properly? The resistance could be from the tensioner spring and my driver side camshafts are off by 180 degrees. Intake double line is at the top of the intake camshaft and the exhaust double lines are at the bottom of the exhaust camshaft. so what do you think? I need your advise or any other subie owners that have dealt with this. I don’t want to bend any valves
Thank you for this I actually thought it would be impossible for me but wow its actually quite simple thanks to your guide 😊
Love to hear. Cheers!!!
Luke where have you beenI've been waiting for more Subaru vids I haven't seen or heard anything from you in about a month please come back we need more videos videoslove you showing us how to install the engine back into the car thank you
Been a while, but I’m back - hope you’re doing well. Cheers!!! 👊
One thing you skipped was mentioning the water pump. If you are doing a 100k replacement of the belt, it just makes sense to change the water pump, since the belt drives it and you are in that far.
Man what a life saver 🙌🙌🙌 thanks for making this video
Awesome. Glad it helped!!! 👍
Hey Luke the video is great! I have a question. I have a ‘04 forester XT EJ 25 and am trying to align the cam notches on left head. How can I align the notches and turn both cams without damaging valves?
Best way is follow the Factory Service Manual. The intake and exhaust cams each need to be rotated in a specific direction; one is clockwise and the other counterclockwise - then lock them in place and install the belt.
I tried to buy the cam tool but says is no longer available, hope to do my firstsubarus first timing belt your video was alot of help...any info helps
Hi. Thank you for your help.. is that apply for all Subaru... what about Subaru 2001 forester ??
would you do any revolutions on a manual transmission to check if the lines align again? or would you just align them all and crank her up? 🙋🏻♂️
When your finished do you pull the tensioner grenade pin before removing the left side cam holder or do you remove the cam holder first?
Great video and helped me out a lot, But I have an issue, I'm currently doing my timing belt and all was going well until the thread stripped on the tensioner Pulley, any suggestions?
By the way I do like your detail instructions
Thank you for your video.
I have a bug eye bought in 2001
Questions:
On my old EJ20, there's a way longer bolt than the one you show on the lower red cog gear, plus a washer behind it is it my mistake mixing them up?
Also the idler pulley that came with the gates kit is slightly different, the seal of the bearing isn't as deep making the original bolt shorter. I have replaced that bolt with one that is 1/2 longer. The old one wouldn't even catch on the threads.
Now when I took down all the pulleys I made sure to put the bolts back in their original spot. At least I think I did.
Just need to make sure.
Thanks for any feedback
Excellent ! very educational!
Something I noticed from the video that was missing and I wonder why . More than happy to supply video to show what I mean . So long story short I found before putting the belt on to have for example your rhs intake cam 1/2 a tooth out so that when you fit the belt , it will allow you to taught the belt as you go . Same form lhs intake , half a tooth anti-clockwise or just before 12 . Just more nit picking than anything . The above is something I’ve learned from a couple of hundred timing jobs . Can link video here if needed
Will be doing this very soon will def get the tool , I might also have to replace the cam seals any tips on getting the cam gears off, also considering co 23 tools to get that job done this will be done with the engine in the car. Love the videos great stuff.
Thanks man! It’s pretty easy with that tool. I used to do it super ghetto and use two Allen keys strapped together, or just tried to do it and had the cam gear snap back on my over and over. 🤣🤣🤣
So great to see your channel. I am in Chico. Are you in the area? My son and I have been working on his Impreza WRX 2009 and we can't get it running. We need help. I would love your perspective.
Brilliant video thanks
wow, extremely great guide! Do you have one for removing/installing the covers while inside the engine? I'm about to check if my timing belt skipped a tooth or two on my EJ20X Legacy. I'm going to use the guide to see if everything lines up, well done! I'll post the results soon.
Don’t have one for that yet but good idea for a video. Super common thing to have to do. I’ll def add that to the list!!! 👊
Sorry if it was already answered below but did a quick check and didn't see the question. But is it possible to do that timing belt replacement and water pump without pulling the engine out? Maybe just dropping the radiator. Would that give enough clearance?
Hi,
Great video, do you have any early engine build videos which use the early type tensioner? That loctite looks like conterfit stuff, far too runny, genuine loctite 243 does not run like that down the thread. Thanks
Hi. I do have some older ones. Think the locktite is just old, but I’ll take a closer look - thanks!!!
The small idler pulley above the waterpump tq spec is 18.1ft/lbs and not 28.9ft/lbs overall a good video
I just had my water pump, and timing belt (pulleys, idlers) on my 1998 Legacy 2.5 (N.A.)
The engine is louder since I got it back. More hi-pitched. Not crazy loud, just not the same.
And it has a vibration at idle (in P and D)
The garage owner said there's no way the symptoms are related to the timing belt - says that a misaligned timing belt would cause Tachometer needle to stutter non-stop. (tach needle is pretty steady) He won't look at it. he says the vibration is caused by the driveshaft. Until I replace the driveshaft he won't look at anything else. But doesn't make sense, driveshaft wouldn't cause vibration at a stop ? I have three days left to dispute the charge ($2,400 Canadian$)
Should I bite the bullet and pay another garage to inspect the timing belt install?
Hi. I chase your videos and believe me they are very helpful. Thanks. question It is possible to change the head gasket without removing the engine ?
Yep. It can be done for sure. Just need to unbolt the engine mounts and pitch stop so you can raise the engine as high as possible. But I got to be honest, I’ve never done it. Good luck. Cheers! 🤙
OK so what do u do when u align those marks perfectly like u did then u do 2 full rotations of the engine just to have the driver upper cam gear only to be half a tooth off. All other gears aligned perfectly, and would that cause a po011 and po021 over advance timing codes cause that's what I'm getting rt now
love your video. i just got a 2001 wrz imp and i was wondering what the best water pump and timing belt kit brand is for it, thank you
Probably OEM for stock HP. For legit high end racing stuff, check out RCM in the UK.
RCM = Roger Clark Motorsport
On the right-hand side of the engine, does it matter if the actual gear itself on opposite sides or are they different cz they both look the same so
Did this a few months ago. Finally got the car back together and ran a compression test. No compression whatsoever on the driver side. Everything lines up perfectly. Pistons weren't touching. Any way something could have messed up? I really don't think I bent valves but we'll sadly be the motor to see what the issue is. Would appreciate a reply! Thanks man.
Hmm, sorry to hear buddy. I’d get some compressed air and run a leak down test - this will help you narrow down where exactly you’re loosing the combustion pressure. You’ll be able to hear it coming out the valves, out the bottom, which means it’s the rings, or out the head gasket sealing area. It’s got to be one of those three spots. Good to verify which one first, that way you know all your effort is going to pay off. Cheers and good luck!!! 👍
Can I ask where the other 2 Cam gears didn't get the special locking tool also? I'm just learning so sorry if it's a stupid question
That was very helpful
Good explanation to a layman keep on studying
Thanks for the information , excellent presentation . Do you advise changing the water pump when you change the belt?
Thanks for a through vid. Any chance you know what kit fits my ej204 dohc?
I was way too scared to do a timing belt and was so ready to take it to the dealer. Now I'm not so sure... lining up marks with tons of little helpers and holders kinda looks a lot easier than torching rusted strut bolts, extracting stripped caliper bolts or dropping fuel tanks..
Go for it!!! 🤙🤙🤙
So I have a jdm ej20h do you think the lower exhaust came is also spun counter clockwise?
Hello, are valves supposed to be open on loaded exhaust cam, driver side, when in time with intake cam?
Hey can I install one of these engines in my 1986 75,000 mile XT GL?
With some massaging
Hi Luke
Great video, very easy to understand step by step!
I would like some advice on something if you could help me. I am a qualified technician and I have a timing belt job booked on a 1998 gc8 wrx in a few weeks time and I was informed by a Subaru shop here in Australia that I should not touch the cam and crank shaft seals if they are not leaking.
Why is that but what’s so hard about doing them? If there not leaking when I do the timing belt what if they leak a few months later? I don’t get it.
Also with the cam locking tool, would that also work on that engine? I believe it should since the engine is a ej205 right? The Amazon website says it will not fit the car when I went to purchase it.
Any help would be much appreciated Thankyou Luke.
Hi, I agree with your logic! It’s not likely the seals will start leaking soon if they’re dry, but it is a good idea to replace them if the timing belt is being replaced. Also good to consider the mileage, that can be a big factor too. As for using the cam lock tool on your engine, yes it will definitely work. Amazon but think it’s a different engine due to USDM vs EU and JDM models. It will fit and it makes the job way easier!!! Cheers and good luck!! 👍
@@SubaruONLY
Thanks a lot Luke!
What happens if I’m having trouble rotating the crank sprocket to get it to the mark? Feels like resistance. Engine is on the stand and has not been ran yet.
What tool I can use to keep camshaft from moving while doing timming belt work
Thank you for sharing this video very helpful nice tips.
Sweet!
Is it true that the lines on the timing belt only work if belt is installed so the words on the timing belt are readable from the front of the engine? Or does it work both ways?