SOHC Subaru Timing Belt Replacement Procedure
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
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How to replace a SOHC Subaru Timing Belt Yourself
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Gads, turn off the background noise. this is a classroom!
Excellent video--you probably saved me at least an hour of frustration! One note: for automatics, it's a huge pain to tighten the crank pulley bolt, as you can't lock up the engine with the transmission. After some exploring I found that you can insert two 3/8" socket extensions into the holes on the crank pulley and jam a crowbar, etc. between them to hold the engine as you torque down the bolt.
Hey just a heads up, 3 years later and you're still helping people like myself navigate around the engine compartment and identify components and complete tasks that we would otherwise struggle to complete! Great video man! Especially the idea with clamping the belt down on the marks to help while I fumbled around getting the rest of it on. Please keep up the great work that you're doing!
Thaks for this great extremely clear vid!! Note: the crank sprocket guide that's removed at 8:00 is required only on manual transmission vehicles. I popped my covers off today, and lo, no crank sprocket guide! A bit of googling educated me so I thought I'd share. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing this information...it must of been confusing when you realized the crank sprocket guide rail wasn't there.
I had never attempted this job before. I watched this video and paused it with each step. I successfully changed the water pump and timing belt on my son's 98 Legacy 2.2 with NO issues! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!
Dude! Subbed!
Your instruction is clear and precise. You don't talk too much not too little. Your patient as you work AND you don't CUSS. Thanks a million.
iamdjsluggo plus no annoying hardcore EDM music. Lol
iamdjsluggo
iamdjsluggo he was (is never) angry. Mad?
He saved me, my 1000 plus!
Kinda wish he would cuss a bit.... :)
Trevor Letkeman LoL, for realism?
Nah, I appreciate the fact I can watch a video with kids around and not have to worry or in public without looking like a douche.
best subaru videos i've found. You've saved me thousands of dollars and millions of minutes. thanks a lot man
Just changed the timing belt and water pump on my 2007 Subaru Forester automatic trans using this video as a main guide. Also changed the the AC idler pulley as it was causing a horrible squeak. Two main differences for automatic transmissions: two additional hoses to disconnect while removing radiator, and to tighten crank pulley stick a screwdriver in the flywheel access on the passenger side of the engine. This will prevent the engine from turning while you torque. Thanks for the great video!
Many thanks for a very helpful video. By the way, just in case anyone wants to re-check the timing against the marks on the belt they will all line up again every 24 revolutions of the engine.
Colin Mill I was courious about a 1000 r.p.m.
Slow motion cameras. Are thinking 💭 and?
A strobe light! Is enrollment needed.
Ah great I was wondering thanks.
@Frank. T No - the belt is 223 teeth long if I remember right and the crankshaft toothed pulley is 24 teeth so after 1 revolution of the crank the markers are only 24/223 part of their way round one lap of the timing system. The mark gets back to the crank pulley after 223/24 or 9.29166 revolutions of the crank and actually engages 7 teeth away from where it started so the mark on the belt does not line up with the mark on the pulley. Actually, what I wrote previously was wrong - the marks don't line up again until the belt has completed 24 laps of the timing system which takes 223 revolutions of the engine! Obviously the guys at Subaru did a proper job of designing this as a hunting mesh to keep the wear even.
A good, honest, down-to-earth mechanic who doesn't drop f-bombs. Thanks!!!
Fuckity fuckin fuck
@@caleb9246 dude c'mon
@@nogamingcontent4369 dude holy fuckin fuck
who cares
I don’t fuckin trust a tech that doesn’t cuss
Here is a nice little trick for getting the crank pulley on and off quick and easy. You just need the alternator belt! ruclips.net/video/BTysmAxU_nw/видео.html
Excellent video, changed the belt on my 04 forester this morning only using the guide, took me about 3 hours going at a slow pace.
To those asking about water pump, I purchased my belt from a Subaru dealer and the bloke advised that water pumps don’t need replacing on these, he said he never sees any fail. And he was right might felt brand new so I kept the original in.
To those suggesting the radiator does not need to be removed, I got away with just removing the fans, maybe the OP just removed the road to get camera angles.
I have an 04 Forrester too at 118k miles, how many miles did you swap it out at? I’m thinking of driving down to NY from Boston next week, will it be fine or should I not risk it? Thanks in advance
One comment I saw in another video that might be helpful, when you put the belt on, put it on so you can read the writing as you are looking at it from the front of the engine to make sure the lines line up from the left side to the right side cams. Otherwise, great video, I was thinking of doing one, but I really couldn't add any more.
Thanks for this great video Devin. It gave me the confidence to change the timing belt on my 2006 Forester, including water pump and pulleys. Everything went perfectly and that tip with the clamp to keep the belt in place really helped. Awesome!
I've watched 4 timing belt replacement videos and NOBODY mentioned the two hoses at the bottom of the radiator that connect to two lines sitting below the battery. These are transmission coolant lines according to the Haynes manual. You'll have to provision for plugging them. A local shop told me this is just transmission fluid that cools somewhat by running through the radiator. It is a separate circuit within the radiator that does NOT mix with the engine coolant. I have a 2006 Baja, non-turbo model.
I did it bro. Thanks to your video. Had an automatic. Used a small Allen wrench in a vice grips on the engine pulley and had friend torque it back on...quite a bit of blood but it clicked. Wish there was a better way on autos. Everyone thought I was crazy. Only needed a new steering belt lol
Now I know that I'm not the only one that cuts up the back of his hands whenever I work on my car. Even if I'm just changing the oil, I manage to cut myself.
😂😂😂😂😂
This video is clear brother! Great video liked the music too lol. It kept the pace of watching a delight. Please next time show us the water pump change aswell since it's right there. Great vid
Thanks
Replacing the thermostat, waterpump and timing belt for the first time! Its going well
First time ive done anything other than replacing an oil filter on a car 😂
This one isn’t TOO bad (beware old Honda’s!) but this is definitely a step up!
It pissed off my dealership I bought it from! Fun, Scary. I won !
Thank You 😊
excellent! that's very clear and well edited video. thank for sharing, really helpful
Hit like to buy this man some gloves.
Water pump?
I was wondering about that. Generally speaking, if the belt is ready for replacement, the water pump is cheap insurance at the same time.
So if you want to check the water pump just turn it and if it turns freely with little to no resistance then it's good but if you want to remove it there are about 5 bolts holding it in and you would need to remove a hose that is attached to it. Also if you take it off you might need a mallet to get it off
@@hunternadon6711 - The water pump may well be, and probably is, just fine but I think the point is, if the car has enough miles on it that the timing belts need attention, as long as you're in there, go ahead and replace it. It's simple at that point and relatively cheap insurance. I've heard of a number of folks who didn't touch the water pump with the engine was down for timing belts only to have to tear it down again 10k miles later when the pump did go out. It's a personal decision of course but as I said, it's cheap insurance.
@@Intrepid175a I found the water pump actually made most kits cheaper
I learnt the hard way getting mechanic to do belt but he never mentioned pump. 6 months later it all comes apart again after the pump starts to leak, do the pump!
cool stuff I'm a panelbeater tradesman for 30 years you did a great job in this presentation now i can go do my timing belt on my subaru .thanks dude
Welcome!
Did you need to bleed the tensioner? (If you used a gates kit)
Nope. Ive done several and only thing you have to do with the tensioner is pull the pin after you've triple checked everything lines up then pull pin and confirm lines are still perfect
Dude, thanks like times a million for posting this! Just got mine done and she's running smooth. A quick tip, for tightening down that crank pulley bold. I put 2 short 3/8 extensions in the crank pulley holes and then stuck a breaker bar on them, and pulled the opposite ways until I was able to get the proper torque. Also, mine, an 2009 has a stupid stretch fit belt on the inner crank pulley part which was kind of a pain to put on, but I did it with flat screwdrivers. The crank pulley itself was pretty tough to get off, but I kept hititing it on the sides with a rubber mallet and wiggling back and forth until it came off. Anyway, just thought I'd share some tips in case it helps anyone else. Again, THANK YOU!!
Excellent tips. Glad it worked out for you man!
sure helped me out
Good! Glad it did :)
This helps me a bunch!
wouldnt jamming the flywheel with a flathead screw driver be easier and do the same thing?
Very concise! Great how-to! Just curious, why do you torque the pulleys when they're under the load of the belt? Seems like you would get more accurate torque with the pulley unloaded, but I'm sure you're following the procedure in the service manual. Thanks!
Nice job! Curious as to why you didn't go ahead and replace the water pump too? Also, can you not use a impact wrench to remove the crank pulley?
Hello, I am changing the timing belt on a subaru Forester 2.0L 2006 mod. Checked the markings before I dismantled this, but didn't think the markings were 100 percent on the markings? it could be that the strap is old and a little stretched. ? Mr. Odd Jorstad.. (Norway)
Just got my estimate today. 1800$ + tax. 9/2024. I will be under my hood this weekend. This is definitely my most important tool. Thank you.
Lose the music. Great video though.
Great video, thanks! Just wanted to add when breaking the crank pulley by turning the car over make sure your battery is fully charged!!! After a few failed attempts I realized I wasn’t at full charge and it doesn’t have enough to break it.
Quick question while im doing my subaru.if one of the cams jump a little when taking the belt off, how do i align it back.?can i jist turn in on its own?
I have the same issue, wish I knew how to fix this.
@oddjorstad5007
for 0 sekunder siden
Hi, could this cam wheel be set wrong, it was on the rocker when I took the old one off. it then twisted to one side.Hi
do you actually need to remove the radiator? Seems like there is a decent amount of room in front there.
Maybe he removed it to get better video? Anyway, service manual recommends removing fans and putting cardboard and blanket over radiator. Not sure if dealer mechanics actually do this?
Had my laptop sitting on top of the engine playing the video. Did the cambelt on a 2001 Impreza. worked really well. Best tip was putting that bottom idler back on last. Cheers man.
Good video my dude!!
Please remember align top dead center with the belt on, if you turn the cams seperate from the crank you can bend a valve.
Sucks that the gates timing belt guide clearance tool isn't sold separately. I tend to avoid their kits because some of the idlers are made in china. Use the ASIN kits. And the crank pulley tool is a must have for removing that crank pulley by yourself.
Wish I would have seen this video first omg dude airhug from Florida. Every other video was like put the other pulley on advance the mark blah blah blah! Thank you!
Thanks for this! Is there a certain kit I would need?
The only other thing, DON'T cross thread the bolts. and the Tensioner bolt could break. they are not fun to drill out, ask me how I know. also a Heli coil kit may be needed. had to put four heli coils in my 95 legacy. yes my comment is very late.
Awesome video dude! Everything was spot on! Clamping the timing belt in place was a genius idea saved me tons of hassle
Can the 3 notches be lined up individually, with the belt off?
Only slightly, you don't want them slipping more than half to 3/4 a turn if you can help if and if they do move try to note which direction so you can turn them back slightly. Valves can get scraped bent scarred ect. Usually only happens when running high rpm but possible to cause some bending by having it turn too far. Definitely don't want that belt off before having it at tdc that would be a nightmare but still possible to get right.
thanks for the info. Mine wont start now so its coming back apart next weekend. Probably timing issue.
Timing jumped. Got it running. Thanks for the video.
I've I had to put the belt on my 2000 Subaru Outback sedan 3 times now and I still can't get the car to start at all, each time I've used the square mark as TDC but there is also a triangle and a circle and I used a Gates belt which might be the problem, so which mark should I use to time the belt the square the triangle or the circle? And should I replace the gates belt with an OEM belt? I really want to get it right on the 4th try I don't want to have to do it again for a 5th.
I would like to add to this great video the following:
1. The belt's fit is very very tight, it stretches very little if anything and it's ribbed.
2. Hence, when you get it on on all the cogs, it gets divided into runs witch can stretch only within the run
3. when you do the belt on the car, even if you remove fans, you do not have visibility of all the holes where install bolts go
4. all together you need to install 1 x tensioner, 1 x cog idler, 2 x smooth idlers, top and bottom ones.
5. when you are installing the last two, you have to stretch the belt (some strength is required) and fit the holding bolt into the hole you don't see - and that is not easy to do for some of them.
6. you have to start the bolts with your hand to make sure it's square fit, otherwise the steel bolts will make some mess with your aluminium engine.
So the above were just observations, and now are a couple of statements:
1. the cog pulley next to water pump and the tensioner are absolutely worst to fit in, so do them first.
Not like on this video, when the tensioner is fitted with the top idler already fitted - this might not work, as you have to stretch the belt and fit the bolt into the hole that you don't see.
And the tensioner will have tendency to skew.
MrSubaru fits the tensioner and the top idler first - that also might not work for you, as the cog pulley is also a dog to fit, being close to the water pump and not enough belt to stretch.
2. After you have fit the tensioner and the cog idler, install the top idler, as it's got nice long run of the belt to stretch, and then, the bottom idler, as it also has a nice long run to stretch.
That will work.
Thank you for a thorough exposition also The problem is I am having current on two tower on the coil pack cylinder 1 and 2 no electrical current for cylinders 3 and 4 could the cause a ignition timing on the belt?
Looks like you drew blood on your hand doing this job. In my world, if you draw blood on a project, it's GUARANTEED to be a successful project. 😁
Thanks for the video! I absolutely could not get the belt on using the sequence in another video, putting the water pump cog and lower pulley on last. It was impossible, only two belt lines would match. Yet somehow, it went on easily using your method. Crazy.
Use AISIN parts and all oem, right? Did you replace the old tensioner with new? New belt guides? Always a metal gasket for the water-pump. I'm going to do this job or pay for it, I've got 110k miles. Just a nit-picky point, if you use 50/50 coolant it's said by those that say it to use distilled water for the dilution. After watching your video, and a few others, I'm feeling more confident to do this job. I just have to absorb the steps repeatedly, then the road looks more traveled for me. Thanks
Does cylinder number one have to be at the top or all the way down?? I messed up forgetting the crank spins twice and the cams once and don’t wanna ruin anything. 1996 Impreza 2.2 SOHC
I have a 2016 Subaru STI with 99K miles, so I have to change the correct timing belt. My question is that I should replace part of the timing belt. Thank you
Good video. HOWEVER- you’re not replacing the pump with the belt. I have mine out and I’m happy I’m doing it! Second, you’re not using impact grade sockets and extensions with your impact wrench. Not a good idea.
Devin, what timing gear kit did you install on your Subaru?
Idk if you respond to comments. But I have ran through this video 20 times trying to figure out what I did wrong. The car ran before I did this. Just fine. The belt was just clearly in need of replacement. But now my engine bangs and knocks very loudly. I haven't tried to start it again. I don't want to break it further. Any ideas?
Can anyone tell me if this works in a forester 1998 ej20 engine
Be sure to also check that the car doesn't have a "stretch fit" belt (2008 models onward) for the compressor which will need a special fitting tool as there is no tensioner for that belt.
Jester Mgee Great point. Rally Sport Direct has the tool along with many other places.
www.rallysportdirect.com/part/accessory-belts/gat-91031-gates-stretch-belt-installation-tool?gclid=CjwKCAjw14rbBRB3EiwAKeoG_5C0xS0PNqcwKcR7lln5lSSUQBXTPSz8zqjisZai48rtJJTICMUSyxoCBY0QAvD_BwE
Wicked video man! Thanks so much, best one I've found on RUclips
Hi there bro were can I get that orange tool that sets the gap on timing belt guide on crank shaft sprocket my timing belt kit from company 23 didn't come with one
I noticed he replaced some pulleys? sprockets?Was that normal normal for maintenance change or did something break. here?Can you folllow this procedure if your belt. just broke?
Thanks to my subscribers I just hit 1600... Now he's at 386K, picked up a couple more.
He is showing the Correct timing marks, but that is NOT TDC, top dead center, it is the mid stroke of all 4 pistons.
did u torque the tensioner and other pulley? the main crank pulley is 130lb?
Great video. Super helpful. I had the dealer replace the front control arms Etc for around 1k after they failed to spot the bushings were wearing at the 90k service which would have saved me $700 when the wheels started fibrillating at around 65MPH. Could have done that myself before it became a metal on metal situation requiring replacement. Going to do the rear bushings myself then the timing belt with new bearings Etc next.
Just took off my timing belt cover and noticed I don’t have a guide for my crank pulley and the belt has never been changed, factory default maybe?
My timing belt snapped today, wasn't even close to being due for change according to records. The engine cranks over and just sounds like there are no spark plugs in it (no resistance, turns over very quickly, and sounds complete fine), what are the chances the engine is ok and I can replace the belt and be back on the road?
Good idea to mark your old belt before removing and comparing to new belt before refitting
Imagine the guy who bought this Subaru needs to do his timing and finds a video of devin doing the timing 😂
Is it hard to take the driver side crank cam pully off to replace the seal behind the pully? I know how to get the timing belt off and on but what about that seal it is leaking real bad and the oil temp light start blinking on and off.
How do you take the 22m back off of the crank sprocket so that I can put the pulley and crankcase back on?
Man.. every video I saw was has 2.5 but everyone is different. I don't have a belt tensioner that looks like that.. timing is off on the car too.. need to find a video for how to do that.
How do I fix kidding problem after installing the cylinder head gasket
is there a way to replace the belt without draining and refilling coolant?
How important is it to replace the other pulleys and tensioner when doing the timing belt? I notice the full kits are quite expensive! Additionally, would you recommend doing the waterpump at the same time? Thanks!
I was wondering the same thing.
@@seandknutson it's very important as these parts have limited life and will need replacement.I recommend Aisin kit
I made the mistake of letting a local shop replaced my timing Belt and all they did was replace the timing belt. I had the factory pullies still in my car. At 205000 miles the pulley with the cog teeth on it self destructed and the car jumped time time and fired. I was a 100% sure that I had trashed the engine. After watching this video and putting in a new kit it turned over perfectly 1st time with no noise from the engine and no damage done. Spend the extra money replaced the pulleys when you replace the belt. 80000 miles from now I'm going to go ahead and replace it all one more time.
I mean my rule of thumb for anything is. If you're taking it all apart. Replace everything you can.
It's hard to find out for sure, but is this the same engine as the 2003 Outback wagon?
So if I took the belt off already and it’s not at top dead center do I just put it on and spin it untill it’s at top dead center? This is my first time doing this and timing scares me
I noticed you didn't change the water pump. Is it not driven by the timing belt, or is it not necessary?
Good video, except you can easily do this without draining coolant or removing the radiator.
dang the music is so terrible. The video is good, but the music is so bad, I just don't want to watch anymore.
Very good instruction. Subbed.
I wonder why so many people have to have noise they call music going all the time. I could not listen to you for the noise.
Finally a bloke who just explains in normal English thanks
Great helpful guide, but a pity about that annoying loop going in the not-so-background
$1000.00? Hell, I'll do headgaskets, timing belt, w/p pulleys, the whole 9 for $1200.00......
I called a local shop here in San Diego, quoted me $1266.18 even when i have the parts and just need install/labor. Fastest "okay,thanks bye!" i've said in my life haha
i like this video because his hands get super bloody the second the hood opens just like mine.
Thank you for mentioning all the small, but very important details. Your guidance video is the best!
Best to go ahead and replace water pump with new thermostat while at this timing belt , not shown or mentioned here.
I'm having overheating problem. 2001 outback
hey how do u hold the engine from turning when cranking the crank pully down on a auto transmion
Best timing belt video I've seen. Gave me the confidence to do it myself.
A changed the timing belt and the oil. It's just clicking when i'm turning the key :(
thank you claryfying that the bottom pulley is the one with a collar (Back)
Damn you make boxers look EASY to work on. You've changed me
Why not change the water pump when replacing the timing belt ?
Cheap, stupid, forgot, already changed it? That's the usual list of excuses ...
Dopee gotta change the belt on the rex soon lol
In 'bout 100K.
Hi
Nice instruction, but why have annoying rock beat during this job?
Mitsubishi timing belt on a Subaru 😂 great video man. I just got a 07 Foster 2.5x. just doing some research. Keep up the content. Subscribed 👍🏽
Misuboshi is actually what it says, they are a Japanese belt manufacturer.
Dude, you are the most concise and thorough mechanic ever. This is awesome, and definitely going to save me $. Thanks for all you do!
What if you don't have tge plastic thing for the guide