That demonstration of the difference between Chinese bearings and Japanese bearings REALLY shows EXACTLY what you're talking about, and the increased resistance in the Chinese bearings is easily observable. Thank you for that demonstration!
Funny story, I completed my timing belt change and forgot to pull the tensioner pin. Never started the car, just wrapped up for the night and in the middle of the night I woke up remembering that I forgot to pull the pin. Moral of the story, never rush and go through everything twice.
The only timing belt failure I have had while driving was on the cogged pulley. I was an idiot and didn't replace it when changing the belt. I was broke at the time. Ended up buying twice. Luckily, it was an EJ18 so non interference and other than having to also buy another water pump, no damage to the engine. Do you have any theory on why the cogged pulley fails first? I guess it technically has a slightly smaller OD so spins more per engine revolution and is probably also taking the most lateral force. Also interesting note, I recently bought a Gates N kit and the belt it came with was made in Japan. Looked nearly identical to OEM. Wouldn't be surprised if it's a rebranded Mitsuboshi under contract. I'll be releasing a video on it by tomorrow.
Was riding with my brother in his newly acquired 2004 Legacy (Cali emissions car- 5 cats 😵) It started chugging when we got off the highway. Got it home, pulled the timing cover and cog pulley had let go, ball bearings everywhere. Belt was still good, engine still ran. Got new timing stuff, put it all back together and he’s been driving it since. Got super lucky the belt held and nothing slipped. Shitbox special.
Just had my mechanic use the Aisin timing belt kit for my 2000 Subaru Forester. I am not a fan of the china stuff. I have had issues with a Gates water pump before. It leaked ! Thats the reason I stayed away from Gates. I will say the Gates belt looked in good shape after 64,000 miles though. I used the Gates kit 8 years ago . Everything but the water pump worked okay. That being said I would never use Gates again. I am noticing a quieter and smoother experience with the Aisin kit. The difference in quality really stands out. I love your demonstration on the japanese version bearings vs chinese.
Thanks for the educational video!! I received an Aisin kit recently and will be replacing the Timing Belt and Components after the holidays. Hope there is a relatively warmer day coming up. 😁
To compress my tensioners, I put a c-clamp in the vice vertically so I can put the tensioner in the c-clamp upright. I then compress it about one turn of the c-clamp per minute. Nice and slow and the tensioner remains upright.
Compare and contrast...I never liked that statement in high school...but otherwise a great informative video. My next belt replacement is next summer...let’s hope the head gaskets hang in there..
Installed a Gates kit with NSK and Koyo idlers a few years ago and a few months later had rough running and vibration on startup. Turned it off and inspected the timing belt (fully) and found the NSK cogged idler to have collapsed inwards slightly contacting the engine. The timing was off but somehow the engine was OK and runs fine to this day. Also, I used a RUclips method of slowly compressing the tensioner using a socket & breaker prior to removal. Doing this can over-torque the idler on the tensioner and it doesn't spin freely.
I had one of those Canadian tensioners on my ‘11 when I bought it possibly part of the gates kit that was installed before I bought it. I found out during a head gasket repair the tensioner seal was bulged out . And one of the idler bearings was toast with only about 50-60k miles on the timing kit. I swapped it all out for a continental part number TB304LK4 and it was all Japanese stuff . 👍. Aisin kit was too far out and I wanted to get it together so maybe it’s an another good option for folks.
18:00 - can confirm about the water pump. Mine went out on my 02 WRX around 84k, didn't catch it, overheated, had to get a new motor. Changing the entire timing kit with an Aisin one every 70k now.
I did my last timing at 300 in the car at 34x pulled the motor to do some work on seals the tooth idler was grimy sounding and the tensioner had oil leaking. All were Japanese bearings. Just replaced the toothed idler, the belt and the tensioner to save a couple bucks since the other components were good.
I've installed many of the AC Delco timing kits with the Canadian belt tensioner and never had a problem. I'm more than certain they will outlast a service interval.
Thank you for the video sir but I am curious about your stance on water pumps. Specifically how you feel about the cast and stamped impellers but also your brand preferences.
Have you checked out the new Dayco kit yet? Comes with Japanese waterpump, tensioner, & sprocket. Then Korean GMB idlers & Italian Dayco Kevlar belt. I've had it on my car for about 10k now with no issues. Have any experience with GMB bearings or Dayco belts?
Thanks for this video that I needed to see to check condition of my TB on 95 Legacy. My only question is that since my 95 is EJ22 it shouldn't bend valves etc. as it's a non interference motor so if tensioner gives out and belt breaks it should not break valves right?
@MrSubaru1387 I have changed out all my components with Japanese parts (stamped on the idlers) I don't see a casting mark on the water pump. Torqued everything down, timing was perfect; took it for a drive around the block and the timing belt jumped. After further research I see I didn't bleed the tensioner. Would that be the main reason for failure? I do not trust the tensioner now but I do believe this was from not bleeding now that I see your video. I am now putting a new motor in and I don't want to repeat the error. Thanks!
Everything I've got from Partsouq so far has been genuine that was advertised as genuine, but their genuine Mitsuboshi timing belt which is the substitute for the more expensive Subaru genuine one has made in Taiwan on it? I thought they were only made in Japan and America?
My head gasket went before my belt. Upon ripping the engine apart the belt was hanging on by a thread and had a bunch of dust from it all over the timing cover
The little o-ring just helps to keep the flat washer from falling off the bolt, when you remove the tensioner. The flat washer is between the tensioner and the block. The rubber o-ring isn't a necessity, just a convenience.
If it was originally made black like vulcanized rubber, the carbon (the black stuff) is part of it's engineering. It gives it durability and strength. That's at least how it used to work when I made tires.
@@TheLazyCarrotIt's in your owner manual. If it's the same serpentine belt design as the 3.0, there's a tensioner pulley and an idler pulley that's part of the maintenance of it. Mmmm I think he has a video on the belt change...
Thanks for the video. Didn't know that about the tensioner possibly having air bubbles. If you don't have access to a shop press, would you recommend just doing like you said you used to for years? Rather than jack it up with some DIY stupidity, which I'm prone to.
Factory, oe, NTN, Japan, tensioners shouldn't give issue, but always a chance. I've compressed them in large C-Clamps before. Just have to hold them upright.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks again. I literally received my timing belt kit yesterday. It is an NTN tensioner. After watching your video this morning it set my mind at ease. Looks like I the proper quality parts. My water pump and thermostat arrived today from Subaruparts.com. Much appreciate your sharing invaluable knowledge.
Very useful video Mr. Subaru! You touched on an issue that I’m looking into. The lower left idler for an ej25 SOHC; the “shouldered” idler near the oil filter. I noticed that the outer sleeve of the new NSK 13073AA190 idler wobbles a little, side-to-side, or up-and-down on the single bearing. Do you know of a double bearing replacement/upgrade for the AA190 idler? I noticed another reputable Subaru mechanic just using the double-bearing “shoulderless” AA142 (usually used in the location right above the shouldered idler) in place of the AA190. Do you know if I can get away with this? Might there be an issue with the belt “walking” over the inside edge of the shoulderless idler? Thanks for your thoughts, and thanks again for taking the time to make these valuable videos.
Great videos, very informative thank you. Question. According to the Aisin aftermarket website, my timing belt with water pump kit for my 06 Forester is listed as the TKF-006. If I follow your link back to Amazon, the same kit, according to Amazon, comes up as "doesn't fit" my vehicle. The discrepancy brings in a certain degree of hesitation when ordering parts, assuming Amazon is in error with their match up? Ready to order but with hesitation !!!
@@MrSubaru1387 its automatic. I did see the on the Aisin site it does mention naturally aspirated, manual EJ253 (TKF-006) the only other option was the turbo version EJ255 (TKF-004) - any suggestions would be greatly appreciated (belt kit only and order water pump separately?). Thanks for the quick reply !!
To whom this concerns. Know the difference between an interference and non interference engine when buying a vehicle whether new or usd. Also find out if chain or belt driven. Thiknowing this will save you mucho denero in the future. The subaru boxer engines are interference engines
There aren't many non-interference engines on cars made today! Chains are great but the guides fail so it is not much better. Just replace the belt as recommended by the car manufacturer. Gates makes heavy duty belts.
The EJ18 and EJ22 (SOHC) boxer engines were non-interference engines. The EJ25 engines were interference. The newer Subaru engines 2013+ are chain driven. The EZ30 and 3.6R are chain driven as well.
there aren't many non-interferance engines on the market today. Also in the debate between belt vs chain many things can be said.. It's not like timing chains never wear out nor need replacing.. specially for the chain guides.. If you tell me that they are a "safer" design from the get go and that last longer I agree with you. However, when they need replacing, it usually costs more, specially if its an engine out scenario.. What people need to do is keep up with maintenance regardless how timing in the engine synced. That will save thousands, both in monetary units and headaches
Are the Aisin kits safe to buy from Amazon? Or do you buy direct from them? I have heard some things are likely counterfeit on Amazon so wanted to be sure. (Brand name Alkaline batteries for example).
I am looking for a Aisin timing belt kit for my 2012 Subaru Impreza sport limited. 2.0 engine, all the kits I see have the wrong water pump. my pump has the thermostat facing down not the front facing. Can you help me get the right kit? Thanks, Pablo Irizarry
Quick question… I bought what I thought was an Aisin kit on eBay but it came with GMB tensioner and pulleys… should I return it or will it be ok? I’m having trouble find an Aisin tkf-010
So let’s talk about time versus actual Miles Robert, if the car sits how many years can you get out of a belt versus mileage I’m guessing what six years out of a belt?
Besides a Subaru Dealership, where else would you recommend a safe business to get older Subarus serviced/diagnosed for random problems I am having with my older 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5XT. Perfect body. Just needs some attention on the internal parts. Either good businesses or ways on finding a good business to get my Subaru serviced wise for diagnosing. I tried myself and it didn't go too well. With youtube videos and google, I kind of tend to go down a rabbit hole pretty fast as far as solutions to problems I think I'm having versus what the problems I am actually having. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
I just changed my front diff/transmission fluid and the rear diff fluid as well. I did the front first as I was waiting on my 13mm square head mall socket to come in and the gear changes are already smoother. Cant wait to test out again with the rear diff done too. I have loads of fun in the snow with my subaru. I watch your videos and try to make my subaru better by doing maintenance. I have a question though. My 2010 OB 2.5L has the anti skid feature. Its a nuisance when you want to have fun in the snow and for icy corners it makes me feel more in danger as I try to correct but the wheels lock all over the place. Never had any issues on icy corners with a bit too much speed in FWD car without that antiskid feature. Is there a way to disable the antiskid system? I read on it online a bit and some said that disconnecting the wire would also make it so your break lights dont work. I ask because I know a guy who was in an accident with a subaru OB 2011 and his anti skid doesnt work anymore. Mine currently doesnt work as the check engine light came on (comes and goes every now and then) and the anti skid light is on and doesnt work as I can have fun in the snow without interference. BTW I have fun in the middle of the night in parking lots with nobody around. Asfor the 'high speed' cornering when its icy, sometimes it just happens and with older FWD cars I was alwayd able to control the skid. With the antiskid in an AWD subaru, I have mord trouble correctings as the wheels always lock because the car isnt going straight like it the antiskid module wants to. Thanks to anyone who could help my out on disabling the antiskid on a 2010 subaru outnack 2.5L.
Well worth to spend the extra money on OEM parts. They have the best R&D, will have your car last longer and saves you money in unnecessary repairs down the road.
Mr Subaru, i bought a kit and instead of 2-row bearing (old Koyo was like this), I got NSK single row bearing. engine is SOHC 2L.. can that be replaced this way?
watch you every chance I get but I am feeling left out....lol I drive a 3.6R and no one has any how to videos for the power train outside of basic stuff :D (hint hint)
@@MrSubaru1387 stuff like purge valve, and other goodies that take time... I am closing in on 155K and just want to be able to do a lot of stuff myself...
Hello Mr Subaru, i need some help if you dont mind of course, i installed a cobb sf intake on my 2008 wrx and when i get the code "P0244" boost limit exceeded... i did some research and im having a hard time searching for a solution to this issue.
Hey Mr Subaru! I recently looked at buying a 2006 impreza, but the harmonic balancer was visibly wobbling while the car was running. But not loose, i couldn't move it by hand, it felt solid but definitely was out of center or something, What does this mean?
The EJ crank pulley can separate where the outer part will spin on the inner part. You need to replace it ASAP before it causes damage to your timing belt covers, or leaves you with no charging or steering systems. Plenty of videos out there. The other thing that it can be is a loose crank bolt, or a damaged keyway where the pulley mounts to the crank.
@@tarzaan2603 In my opinion, that is not likely the issue with that Impreza. The pulley on the front of the engine is not a harmonic balancer, it is just a keyed shaft pulley made of two parts with a rubber layer between them that bonds them together. I've had these fail before, and have seen the ones that were put on wrong and damaged the key-way on the crankshaft. If the main bearings are going bad, you will get a knocking sound from the engine. Especially when the engine is cold. If the crankshaft is damaged from improper installation, then I wouldn't buy it. If it is just a separated pulley (which is waaaay more common), it is a fairly easy fix if you don't let it go so long that it causes other damage. Good luck.
So are the tensioners (rod style vs the pivot ) interchangeable? can I remove the rod style and put along with the bracket the pivot style like what's in your video? 1995 vs later model tensioner?
6:40 Here you say don't use a "C" clamp but in "Subaru EJ Series Engine Timing Belt Service Tips And Tricks!" (ruclips.net/video/BJg9hhReU3E/видео.html) at 7"18 you say just use a "C" clamp. This can be very confusing for someone trying to do a belt change the correct way.
Not to be a pronunciation Nazi.... but... "Me-Tsu-Bow-She" and "Me-Tsu-Bee-She" ("AISIN" doesn't really follow the rules of Hepburn romanization.... So I can't help you here. Edit: I think your pronunciation was right though. "Icing" but without the "G") ... Incidentally, "みいつ" or "Miitsu" means "three" and "星" "Hoshi" means "star." Similarly, "菱" "Hishi" means "diamond" (as in the shape, not the gem) the beginnings of the sounds get changed to "B" whenever they are in a word for... reasons.
You don't always get what you pay for, but you never get more.
Thanks for the video. It was very informative.
That demonstration of the difference between Chinese bearings and Japanese bearings REALLY shows EXACTLY what you're talking about, and the increased resistance in the Chinese bearings is easily observable. Thank you for that demonstration!
The Chinese do know how to engineer & produce quality, but we've been asking for cheaper for decades...
@@wim0104 The Chinese have no problems with copying oem markings as close as possible.
Actually undetectable to the untrained / unsuspecting eye.
Funny story, I completed my timing belt change and forgot to pull the tensioner pin. Never started the car, just wrapped up for the night and in the middle of the night I woke up remembering that I forgot to pull the pin. Moral of the story, never rush and go through everything twice.
Would have been ironic if it exploded because you didn't pull the pin.
Thank you for this video, Mr. Subaru! Shared with a friend whose timing kit is overdue for changing. Hopefully, he doesn't wait too long.
The only timing belt failure I have had while driving was on the cogged pulley. I was an idiot and didn't replace it when changing the belt. I was broke at the time. Ended up buying twice. Luckily, it was an EJ18 so non interference and other than having to also buy another water pump, no damage to the engine. Do you have any theory on why the cogged pulley fails first? I guess it technically has a slightly smaller OD so spins more per engine revolution and is probably also taking the most lateral force. Also interesting note, I recently bought a Gates N kit and the belt it came with was made in Japan. Looked nearly identical to OEM. Wouldn't be surprised if it's a rebranded Mitsuboshi under contract. I'll be releasing a video on it by tomorrow.
Was riding with my brother in his newly acquired 2004 Legacy (Cali emissions car- 5 cats 😵) It started chugging when we got off the highway. Got it home, pulled the timing cover and cog pulley had let go, ball bearings everywhere. Belt was still good, engine still ran. Got new timing stuff, put it all back together and he’s been driving it since. Got super lucky the belt held and nothing slipped. Shitbox special.
Honda also uses koyo bearings for timing, and mitsuboshi parts. Nice to see some familiar names in this one
I love the emotion from the cheap Chinese bearings. Puts a smile on my face. Looking forward to more cheap Chinese bearings!!!!
lol
Just had my mechanic use the Aisin timing belt kit for my 2000 Subaru Forester. I am not a fan of the china stuff. I have had issues with a Gates water pump before. It leaked ! Thats the reason I stayed away from Gates. I will say the Gates belt looked in good shape after 64,000 miles though. I used the Gates kit 8 years ago . Everything but the water pump worked okay. That being said I would never use Gates again. I am noticing a quieter and smoother experience with the Aisin kit. The difference in quality really stands out. I love your demonstration on the japanese version bearings vs chinese.
You’re one smart dude!! I love watching your videos. Glad you did the live with CP or I would have never started following you.
Sweet. 👍🏻 Glad to have you aboard.
I used the SKF kit. Swedish made quality bearings and tensioner. Maybe even better than OME.
Thanks for the educational video!! I received an Aisin kit recently and will be replacing the Timing Belt and Components after the holidays. Hope there is a relatively warmer day coming up. 😁
To compress my tensioners, I put a c-clamp in the vice vertically so I can put the tensioner in the c-clamp upright. I then compress it about one turn of the c-clamp per minute. Nice and slow and the tensioner remains upright.
Yup. I've use big C-Clamps in the past.
Thanks for the c-clamp idea. I need to do this soon and I don't have a press.
Thankyou for the very necessary info we must know as d.i.y.ers. Brilliant!
great video......and great advice to heed and follow. Keep the great content coming
I ended up using my bench vise and orienting it with the tensioner upright. It seemed to work if you don’t have access to a shop press.
Compare and contrast...I never liked that statement in high school...but otherwise a great informative video. My next belt replacement is
next summer...let’s hope the head gaskets hang in there..
Installed a Gates kit with NSK and Koyo idlers a few years ago and a few months later had rough running and vibration on startup. Turned it off and inspected the timing belt (fully) and found the NSK cogged idler to have collapsed inwards slightly contacting the engine. The timing was off but somehow the engine was OK and runs fine to this day. Also, I used a RUclips method of slowly compressing the tensioner using a socket & breaker prior to removal. Doing this can over-torque the idler on the tensioner and it doesn't spin freely.
I had one of those Canadian tensioners on my ‘11 when I bought it possibly part of the gates kit that was installed before I bought it. I found out during a head gasket repair the tensioner seal was bulged out . And one of the idler bearings was toast with only about 50-60k miles on the timing kit. I swapped it all out for a continental part number TB304LK4 and it was all Japanese stuff . 👍. Aisin kit was too far out and I wanted to get it together so maybe it’s an another good option for folks.
18:00 - can confirm about the water pump. Mine went out on my 02 WRX around 84k, didn't catch it, overheated, had to get a new motor.
Changing the entire timing kit with an Aisin one every 70k now.
Please make a video on rebuilding a 08+ sti/wrx PS pump. There is a good thread on Nasioc explaining what orings, seal and bearing is needed
Merry Christmas Mr. Subaru
Same to you and yours!
I did my last timing at 300 in the car at 34x pulled the motor to do some work on seals the tooth idler was grimy sounding and the tensioner had oil leaking. All were Japanese bearings. Just replaced the toothed idler, the belt and the tensioner to save a couple bucks since the other components were good.
I've installed many of the AC Delco timing kits with the Canadian belt tensioner and never had a problem.
I'm more than certain they will outlast a service interval.
I just change it last month for OEM, my car is Subaru outback 2001
Better, thanks. Thanks for the vid!
😂 I had a Subie video in the wings.
@@MrSubaru1387 Excellent!
This is a great video thanks. Have you ever used or seen the SKF timing belt kit VKMA98115-SKF? And what are your thoughts on the SKF kit?
Thank you for the video sir but I am curious about your stance on water pumps. Specifically how you feel about the cast and stamped impellers but also your brand preferences.
Seems water pumps need a video. 👍🏻
I’ll be tuning in sir thank you very much.
the issue is not the impellers, but the bearing or gasket.
Have you checked out the new Dayco kit yet? Comes with Japanese waterpump, tensioner, & sprocket. Then Korean GMB idlers & Italian Dayco Kevlar belt. I've had it on my car for about 10k now with no issues. Have any experience with GMB bearings or Dayco belts?
Thanks for this video that I needed to see to check condition of my TB on 95 Legacy. My only question is that since my 95 is EJ22 it shouldn't bend valves etc. as it's a non interference motor so if tensioner gives out and belt breaks it should not break valves right?
@MrSubaru1387 I have changed out all my components with Japanese parts (stamped on the idlers) I don't see a casting mark on the water pump. Torqued everything down, timing was perfect; took it for a drive around the block and the timing belt jumped. After further research I see I didn't bleed the tensioner. Would that be the main reason for failure? I do not trust the tensioner now but I do believe this was from not bleeding now that I see your video. I am now putting a new motor in and I don't want to repeat the error. Thanks!
You are the best!
Thanks! 👍🏻
Everything I've got from Partsouq so far has been genuine that was advertised as genuine, but their genuine Mitsuboshi timing belt which is the substitute for the more expensive Subaru genuine one has made in Taiwan on it? I thought they were only made in Japan and America?
My head gasket went before my belt. Upon ripping the engine apart the belt was hanging on by a thread and had a bunch of dust from it all over the timing cover
I'm wondering where the little black o ring for the belt tensioner goes?
The little o-ring just helps to keep the flat washer from falling off the bolt, when you remove the tensioner. The flat washer is between the tensioner and the block. The rubber o-ring isn't a necessity, just a convenience.
If it was originally made black like vulcanized rubber, the carbon (the black stuff) is part of it's engineering. It gives it durability and strength. That's at least how it used to work when I made tires.
Chinesium stuff SUUUUUKS!
so the "upgrade" with the single bearing idler is to use the upper right double bearing idler, even if it does not have a lip? for sohc
That's what I'm wondering too.
@@jsmith7338 If that idler was meant to have a lip, I'll use the lipped idler, even if the bearing is just a single.
I've installed hundreds of the upgraded idler without a lip, with not a single issue..
@@MrSubaru1387 ah no, now I want the none lipped one with the better bearing :S
Nice. I have been looking and looking but no timing belt kit for my 3.6 🤔
It has a chain, not a belt.
@@MrSubaru1387 🤦♂️
@@MrSubaru1387 What interval on the accessory belt? No power steering
@@TheLazyCarrotIt's in your owner manual. If it's the same serpentine belt design as the 3.0, there's a tensioner pulley and an idler pulley that's part of the maintenance of it. Mmmm I think he has a video on the belt change...
@@bbodan5393 No idler bearing. Just the alternator and ac compressor. Also the tensioner is a manual type.
Thank you for the information
Your welcome! 👍🏻
Thanks for the video. Didn't know that about the tensioner possibly having air bubbles. If you don't have access to a shop press, would you recommend just doing like you said you used to for years? Rather than jack it up with some DIY stupidity, which I'm prone to.
Factory, oe, NTN, Japan, tensioners shouldn't give issue, but always a chance. I've compressed them in large C-Clamps before. Just have to hold them upright.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks again. I literally received my timing belt kit yesterday. It is an NTN tensioner. After watching your video this morning it set my mind at ease. Looks like I the proper quality parts. My water pump and thermostat arrived today from Subaruparts.com. Much appreciate your sharing invaluable knowledge.
just go real slow, with intervals, with a small C clamp. I go half a turn it, between swapping the other pulleys.
Very useful video Mr. Subaru! You touched on an issue that I’m looking into. The lower left idler for an ej25 SOHC; the “shouldered” idler near the oil filter. I noticed that the outer sleeve of the new NSK 13073AA190 idler wobbles a little, side-to-side, or up-and-down on the single bearing. Do you know of a double bearing replacement/upgrade for the AA190 idler?
I noticed another reputable Subaru mechanic just using the double-bearing “shoulderless” AA142 (usually used in the location right above the shouldered idler) in place of the AA190. Do you know if I can get away with this? Might there be an issue with the belt “walking” over the inside edge of the shoulderless idler?
Thanks for your thoughts, and thanks again for taking the time to make these valuable videos.
I suspect you do want that shoulder for certain corner cases. Just like the extra guide on the crank gear for stick-shifts.
Great videos, very informative thank you. Question. According to the Aisin aftermarket website, my timing belt with water pump kit for my 06 Forester is listed as the TKF-006. If I follow your link back to Amazon, the same kit, according to Amazon, comes up as "doesn't fit" my vehicle. The discrepancy brings in a certain degree of hesitation when ordering parts, assuming Amazon is in error with their match up? Ready to order but with hesitation !!!
I'd go by Aisin's site over Amazon.
Foresters are an issue because of their water pump. Really depends on if auto or manual.
@@MrSubaru1387 its automatic. I did see the on the Aisin site it does mention naturally aspirated, manual EJ253 (TKF-006) the only other option was the turbo version EJ255 (TKF-004) - any suggestions would be greatly appreciated (belt kit only and order water pump separately?). Thanks for the quick reply !!
@@peterschwarer4352 you need to get under the car and look at the water pump outlet pipes. See if it has an oil cooler.
@@MrSubaru1387 Yes, there is a cross over pipe from the water pump to an oil cooler
To whom this concerns. Know the difference between an interference and non interference engine when buying a vehicle whether new or usd. Also find out if chain or belt driven. Thiknowing this will save you mucho denero in the future. The subaru boxer engines are interference engines
There aren't many non-interference engines on cars made today! Chains are great but the guides fail so it is not much better. Just replace the belt as recommended by the car manufacturer. Gates makes heavy duty belts.
The EJ18 and EJ22 (SOHC) boxer engines were non-interference engines. The EJ25 engines were interference. The newer Subaru engines 2013+ are chain driven. The EZ30 and 3.6R are chain driven as well.
there aren't many non-interferance engines on the market today. Also in the debate between belt vs chain many things can be said.. It's not like timing chains never wear out nor need replacing.. specially for the chain guides.. If you tell me that they are a "safer" design from the get go and that last longer I agree with you. However, when they need replacing, it usually costs more, specially if its an engine out scenario.. What people need to do is keep up with maintenance regardless how timing in the engine synced. That will save thousands, both in monetary units and headaches
do you have to replace the cam gear if you chip even a little bit of it?
Are the Aisin kits safe to buy from Amazon? Or do you buy direct from them? I have heard some things are likely counterfeit on Amazon so wanted to be sure. (Brand name Alkaline batteries for example).
Buy from Rockauto
I am looking for a Aisin timing belt kit for my 2012 Subaru Impreza sport limited. 2.0 engine, all the kits I see have the wrong water pump. my pump has the thermostat facing down not the front facing. Can you help me get the right kit? Thanks, Pablo Irizarry
Quick question… I bought what I thought was an Aisin kit on eBay but it came with GMB tensioner and pulleys… should I return it or will it be ok? I’m having trouble find an Aisin tkf-010
So let’s talk about time versus actual Miles Robert, if the car sits how many years can you get out of a belt versus mileage I’m guessing what six years out of a belt?
I believe it's around 8 years. Something like 10-12k miles a year figured.
Besides a Subaru Dealership, where else would you recommend a safe business to get older Subarus serviced/diagnosed for random problems I am having with my older 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5XT. Perfect body. Just needs some attention on the internal parts. Either good businesses or ways on finding a good business to get my Subaru serviced wise for diagnosing. I tried myself and it didn't go too well. With youtube videos and google, I kind of tend to go down a rabbit hole pretty fast as far as solutions to problems I think I'm having versus what the problems I am actually having. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
I just changed my front diff/transmission fluid and the rear diff fluid as well. I did the front first as I was waiting on my 13mm square head mall socket to come in and the gear changes are already smoother. Cant wait to test out again with the rear diff done too. I have loads of fun in the snow with my subaru. I watch your videos and try to make my subaru better by doing maintenance.
I have a question though. My 2010 OB 2.5L has the anti skid feature. Its a nuisance when you want to have fun in the snow and for icy corners it makes me feel more in danger as I try to correct but the wheels lock all over the place. Never had any issues on icy corners with a bit too much speed in FWD car without that antiskid feature.
Is there a way to disable the antiskid system? I read on it online a bit and some said that disconnecting the wire would also make it so your break lights dont work.
I ask because I know a guy who was in an accident with a subaru OB 2011 and his anti skid doesnt work anymore. Mine currently doesnt work as the check engine light came on (comes and goes every now and then) and the anti skid light is on and doesnt work as I can have fun in the snow without interference. BTW I have fun in the middle of the night in parking lots with nobody around. Asfor the 'high speed' cornering when its icy, sometimes it just happens and with older FWD cars I was alwayd able to control the skid. With the antiskid in an AWD subaru, I have mord trouble correctings as the wheels always lock because the car isnt going straight like it the antiskid module wants to.
Thanks to anyone who could help my out on disabling the antiskid on a 2010 subaru outnack 2.5L.
How do you clean gasket surfaces
Can't find the needle nose pliers in the video of white harbor freight tool cart..
Have a time stamp?
Well worth to spend the extra money on OEM parts. They have the best R&D, will have your car last longer and saves you money in unnecessary repairs down the road.
thank you!
You're welcome 👍🏻
How do I know what engine I have? 2010 2.5l forester
Mr Subaru, i bought a kit and instead of 2-row bearing (old Koyo was like this), I got NSK single row bearing. engine is SOHC 2L.. can that be replaced this way?
менял ремень грм и ролики. также ставил NTN хотя сплошь и рядом китайские подделки ...... субару аутбек 2011 г купил в USA ))
Why didn't you take the tensioners apart?
So how do you feel about Chinese bearings?
😂 😂 😂 🤮
watch you every chance I get but I am feeling left out....lol I drive a 3.6R and no one has any how to videos for the power train outside of basic stuff :D (hint hint)
Yeah. I no longer have a 3.6R, so hard to make videos without a car to film. What kind of videos are you looking for on it?
@@MrSubaru1387 stuff like purge valve, and other goodies that take time... I am closing in on 155K and just want to be able to do a lot of stuff myself...
Hello Mr Subaru, i need some help if you dont mind of course, i installed a cobb sf intake on my 2008 wrx and when i get the code "P0244" boost limit exceeded... i did some research and im having a hard time searching for a solution to this issue.
I think that you are telling me that I need to change my timing belt?
The links only go to your page, not to the links or to add vehicle info.
Is it true that the BRZ uses the subaru boxer but swapped belt for timing chain? If this is true can this easily be done with other subaru motors
No. The BRZ uses an FA20 engine. FA/FB engines are chain engines. Totally different from the old belt EJ engines.
Hey Mr Subaru! I recently looked at buying a 2006 impreza, but the harmonic balancer was visibly wobbling while the car was running. But not loose, i couldn't move it by hand, it felt solid but definitely was out of center or something, What does this mean?
The EJ crank pulley can separate where the outer part will spin on the inner part. You need to replace it ASAP before it causes damage to your timing belt covers, or leaves you with no charging or steering systems. Plenty of videos out there. The other thing that it can be is a loose crank bolt, or a damaged keyway where the pulley mounts to the crank.
The pulley could be seperating. Or someone removed it and installed it wrong. Seen it happen quite a few times.
Im worrying about the off balance prematurely wearing out main bearings
@@tarzaan2603 In my opinion, that is not likely the issue with that Impreza. The pulley on the front of the engine is not a harmonic balancer, it is just a keyed shaft pulley made of two parts with a rubber layer between them that bonds them together. I've had these fail before, and have seen the ones that were put on wrong and damaged the key-way on the crankshaft. If the main bearings are going bad, you will get a knocking sound from the engine. Especially when the engine is cold. If the crankshaft is damaged from improper installation, then I wouldn't buy it. If it is just a separated pulley (which is waaaay more common), it is a fairly easy fix if you don't let it go so long that it causes other damage. Good luck.
@@cajunaggie9815 wow thanks! Too bad i already turned down the car, i thought it was a major issue (im paranoid) now i know
Hello, my 2016 Subaru Outback has a strange noise when I make a big turn, why is that
Pretty broad question.. Without more info, I'd say possible issue with a front CV axle.
So are the tensioners (rod style vs the pivot ) interchangeable? can I remove the rod style and put along with the bracket the pivot style like what's in your video? 1995 vs later model tensioner?
Yes.
Vessel JAWSFIT contest!
Two likes from Mr. Subaru in one day?! I have arrived!
why did they never use chains
6:40 Here you say don't use a "C" clamp but in "Subaru EJ Series Engine Timing Belt Service Tips And Tricks!" (ruclips.net/video/BJg9hhReU3E/видео.html) at 7"18 you say just use a "C" clamp.
This can be very confusing for someone trying to do a belt change the correct way.
Not to be a pronunciation Nazi.... but... "Me-Tsu-Bow-She" and "Me-Tsu-Bee-She"
("AISIN" doesn't really follow the rules of Hepburn romanization.... So I can't help you here. Edit: I think your pronunciation was right though. "Icing" but without the "G")
... Incidentally, "みいつ" or "Miitsu" means "three" and "星" "Hoshi" means "star." Similarly, "菱" "Hishi" means "diamond" (as in the shape, not the gem) the beginnings of the sounds get changed to "B" whenever they are in a word for... reasons.
DAYCO is a good OEM timing belt kit too.
Jai Zoriontsuak eta Urte Berri On Bat izan ditzazula opa dizut. Ondo izan,
Can I be your apprentice?
Vessel JAWS contest
Daaaaaaamn that bearing comparison vid was badass lol