Subaru EJ253 SOHC Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Overview of timing belt/water pump replacement on a 2011 Subaru Outback 2.5i.
Tools used:
Subaru crank holding tool - amzn.to/2BHYnzV
1/2" drive ratchet - amzn.to/2LC5uyj
22mm crank bolt socket - amzn.to/2BKQ06R
3/8" drive socket & ratchet set - amzn.to/2Spd9T9
1/4" drive socket & ratchet set - amzn.to/2VNVgj4
M12 cordless ratchet kit - amzn.to/2BME3x9
Serpentine belt tool - amzn.to/2SswHGA
Lisle spill free funnel - amzn.to/2LCEwa3
Parts:
Aisin timing belt kit - amzn.to/2LIbK81
OEM Subaru thermostat - amzn.to/2Snopjb
Subaru super coolant - amzn.to/2BENuyE
If you like the vids and want to help make more: paypal.me/MrSubaru1387
Please Like, Comment, and Share. Be sure to subscribe for future videos.
----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.----
The only man on earth to work on a car without saying a single swear word 😂 nice video bro, really helpful!
When your that good , words aren't needed
Have watched hundreds of repair videos on YT and this is perhaps the best ever. Why do these other authors have an absurd intro with loud music that NO ONE cares about? Having the process typed out versus orally explaining is top notch as well. MrSubaru1387 rocks! Oh, and the Aisin part tip is :)
Thanks MrSubaru1387 for another fine video! I will LITERALLY have my laptop sitting on top of the engine bay for reference as I'm performing this replacement !!
You're welcome.
God bless you for no b******* music or introducing your wife.
Idk if I'm posting too much, but I just finished my second ej253 timing belt service today. No problems! Lightweight brag, but also another thank you!
I'm basically done doing basic service on both a 06 forester and 12 legacy. Idk what I'm gonna do with my free time now!
Just stopping by to say thanks. This is an $1100 service at my local dealer. For about $250 in parts your video makes this an easy job to follow along with. Much appreciated!
+tfineis you're very welcome! 👍
Thanks for this "A Quiet Place" meets Subaru timing belt video! I am confident enough now to do mine! Great job!
Thanks MrSubaru1387. I have just replaced the timing belt, pulleys and water pump on my Forester with the EJ251. Your video came in handy when I couldn't work out which order to put the pulleys on with the belt in place. Also a tip from me. You can use clothes line pegs to help keep the belt in place on the camshaft gears.
One comment about the Company 23 crank pulley tool...on my 2008 Forester I rested one end on the frame rail, made it very easy to unscrew the crank bolt. Then use the other frame rail when reinstalling.
You can also secure the ratchet against the frame rail or something and hit the starter to break the bolt loose. Disable the ignition first. lol. A 7/8" socket also fits the 22mm bolt, in case you don't have a metric socket that size. Can also use an old alternator belt. Loop it around the alternator, and fold the slack over on itself against the left side of the crank pulley. This will bind the crank pulley, so the bolt can be removed. It puts a crease in the belt, so it's best to use an old one.
hey there,
Just wondering if this same procedure and timing belt kit apply to a ej252 Model I have in my 2004 subaru impreza 2.5l? If you could lead me in the right direction that would be so handy👍
Awesome man. Thanks! One note: while the rad overflow tank is off, clean it thoroughly to remove sediment from the bottom. All that new fluid will be contaminated with the residual gunk. You may be helping out with recruiting subaru technicians. Good work!
my 2011 legacy is getting a new timing belt. $900.00 bill, I can see why. Thank you for posting.
Aisin kit is $225 plus shipping off Rock Auto. That's a lot of labor for something an amateur can accomplish within half a day. Just did mine for the first time and it wasn't that bad. Crank bolt is 22mm, or 7/8" in American. There are tricks for loosening it without that tool. Long 90 degree bent needle nose pliers are handy for hose clamps. But, this is a key job, and if a person does not feel comfortable with it, it can be best to leave it with someone who does. Good Luck
@@n2omike yeah that’s pretty fair. My aunts former 2010 Outback needed a timing belt service and our cousin was able to get her a deal with his mechanic and he did the job for $750. Which was amazingly inexpensive for that job!
As an alternative to messing with the cooling fans, you can just pull the entire radiator and get a couple more inches to work in. Useful if you don't have a power ratchet and want to cram a driver tool in there.
On the crank bolt:
- On older cars that have already had a timing service, I've seen a few crank pulley bolts that are *BENT* because of god knows what the last guy did. They also tend to be waaay tighter than they really need to be. Just buy a new bolt - they're Subaru-only, but they're like $3-5.
If you're using this for an older engine that still has two serpentine belts:
- You may as well go ahead and buy a replacement air conditioning idler. I have *NEVER* seen one where the bearing wasn't shot. Dayco part 89029 is a high quality replacement with a good bearing and, unlike the OEM part, the pulley is *metal*. Really. Don't neglect it. I've seen one cause a timing belt break because the bearing on the A/C idler pulley let go, the belt carved a gash in the timing cover and tore the timing belt.
- You'll also want a belt tension measurement tool. You can't just eyeball these - you'll either have them slipping like crazy or side load the bearings to death.
On manual transmission cars:
- Some but not all manual cars will have a little 'guard' shroud bolted on around the crank sprocket. Remove it to service the timing belt. It's there to prevent the timing belt from skipping teeth under shock load if you stall the engine or dump the clutch. When you reinstall it, it should be close enough to the belt that the belt will not be able to rise up out of the tooth grooves and skip. It should *NOT* touch the belt. Occasionally you see these on automatic cars that have had a replacement engine.
As it regards the crank pulley tool:
-You DEFINITELY need it, and you definitely want the Company23 one, not the knockoffs available for half the price. The harmonic balancers actually vary a bit in size and the cheap ones *will not seat inside* some of them on the smaller end and you'll end up bending/breaking the bolts on the tool.
Note for 2022 on the coolant:
- Definitely ignore Subaru's ridiculous coolant fill procedure. It's a recipe for dumping $50 in coolant on the ground. This guy's is fine and accomplishes the same thing. Yes, you do want the big bucket funnel thing. They're like thirty bucks on Amazon.
- If you're not reusing your old coolant, you can probably only get the blue Subaru "Super Coolant" these days. For this stuff, you don't need the conditioner. It's godawful expensive, though. Since you'll end up with a mix of this and the old coolant, you should continue to use the service interval for the old coolant. Once you've changed it 2 times, you can switch over to using the much higher service interval for the super coolant cars.
I replaced the belt and waterpump with an Aisin kit on my 09 last Saturday. The replacement went exactly like your video. Everything came apart easily, and assembly the same. It is surprising how low 28ftlbs feels when torquing the idlers. I used a new crank bolt, oiled the bolt and set my digital torque wrench to 55 degrees. Then checked with the clicker that I had at least 105 ft lbs. It was 40 degrees in my garage with the door open, took almost as long to bleed the cooling system waitin for the thermostat to open as the mechanical part of the job. Your video was a great help!
What if I have a normal torque wrench without the degree options can't I just torque it to spec and leave it?
Thanks for recommending the Aisin kit. I had such a hard time when I was looking for mine and nearly went gates until I heard they were using cheapo Chinese bearings. I went subaru dealer direct for the kit and never heard of aisin so good to know for next time!
Well, I did this job 6 months ago with a GATES timing belt kit. Please go with what MrSubaru recommends here. One of my timing idler bearings is already bad. Luckily the part is under warranty but the job is just annoying to do after hoping I wouldn't be back into it for 100k miles. Stick with the Aisin kit. Apparently even GATES uses cheap bearings now.
Thanks for the video big help. Only thing id add is that in any car that sees snow, the lower timing cover bolts may be a pain to get off. If the 10mm heads rounded, i was able to use a 3/8 and tap it on to remove them. May be wise to buy new bolts prior to starting this project.
The tool worked great
How long does this take, start to finish? I'm a layperson. If I prep everything properly and study videos could I do this in 6 hours?
Hard to say. I can knock one out in around an hour or so. 6 hrs is doable for a beginner.
Slow and boring is perfect for this old fart. Love your videos.
+Jose Juan Borjon thank you. Glad you enjoyed it!
slow and steady , wins every time...
Very clear video. I would have preferred if you would have explained instead of just writing your steps. Thank you. I don't trust my mechanical ability, so I will pay someone to do my 09 Forester next month.
Thanks, good video!
It would be great if you show how to replace crankshaft's and camshafts's seals on EJ253
Thanks in advance
Yaroslav Arabok exactly. My dealer insisted on doing that. I want to do this job myself. Dealer wants over $1200 bucks to do this job.
And the most stressful part of all this is when you turn the key....great video, thinking of doing my 2011
Is it true that my 2014 Forester (2.5L) has a timing CHAIN instead of a timing BELT?
Correct
How much do you owe the SnapOn truck driver?.. Amazing tools BTW.
$0.00
Fantastic video. I do a lot of my own car work and like most home gamers, consult RUclips whenever I do something new. This is one of the best "how to" vids I've seen. Thanks much!
+Philbo Dale you're welcome. Glad to help.
Great video! I’m at 101k getting ready to do mine. I wish my engine bay looked this nice!
Good luck on the repair!
MrSubaru1387 Thanks! Where’s a good place to get the Aisin kit?
I buy them on Amazon.
@@MrSubaru1387 $225 on Rock Auto. Mine also had $25 shipping.
Another great video. I have stopped using Gates altogether like many others. I hope they will see it on their bottom line in a couple of years. I still use SKF wheel bearings and timing belt kits (generally NTN or Koyo components). I will look into Aisin next time. Many of the formerly "reputable" aftermarket brands are clogging the market with the same no-name "premium" components in different wrappings. I have recently seen rubber CV boots ("OE quality") failing after three years of use - OE are like 10-15 years.
Hell yeah! Dude, very impressive how you powered through that crank bolt!
I followed your directions to the letter. Great video and changed my timing belt myself. Thanks for making these videos brother!
You're welcome 👍🏻
question for everyone, i just had to make an emergency surgery into the timing guts of my '03 sohc outback that is at 218,000 miles...the toothed idler had its bearings fail, and then cracked the timing belt cover, but by some miracle it didnt break the belt, however, turning the engine to get both cams and the crankshaft to all 3 line up is a bit challenging with that busted component...what do yall think? is it best if i slap the broken pulley back on to try to rotate them into proper position??
Thank god I needed this video lol
2011 Outback with 120k. No issues with any leaks, should I replace the Water pump since I’m in there or just swap out the belt? Thanks for the vids! Life saver for this Subaru owner!!
Swap everything. Water pump, idlers, tensioner, belt.
You're Awesome Sir. Thank you, God Bless! Question Is there other way to take out the crank pulley bolt without the Crank Pulley Holding Tool?
Thank you and I was able to replaced mine (2011 Outback 2.4)with the guidance of this video. Just an FYI to all - when I used subaru 78 degree Thermostat -, the Check Engine light (steady) Traction, Brake and cruise started blinking- even after resets it keeps coming back And the only way that I was able to clear it is to replace it with 88 degree thermostat and the warning messages all went away
Would you happen to know what the part number for a timing belt kit with water pump for a 2014 Outback limited 2.5?
this with a coolant flush is next on my list. Thanks again for your rad videos!! no one else does em like this for Subarus.
Hello MrSubaru1387. I really like your videos. For now I have just been watching because my 2011 outback 2.5i cvt has not given me any trouble. I drive it little (only 52,000 miles). But that might changes soon, where I need to get my hands dirty. At my last inspection at the local dealer, he recommended changing the timing belt and tensioner due to age of car. Should the water pump be replaced as well. What is an average price for this work? Thank you!
Best instructions ever, my 2010 forester non turbo snapped the timing belt while I was driving, my mechanic told me if he’s was able to manually turn the crankshaft to full rotation as you did ( camshaft as well) He did and told most likely nothing bad happened to the engine. I order the parts he installed. Now there’s a sound of no compression. Is there’s a chance of being out of time be the cause ?
I can vouch for the Company 23 crank pulley wrench. I am working on a 2012 Outback. My Harbor Freight stubby impact wrench and my Harbor Freight full size impact wrenches both failed to loosen the crank pulley bolt. I was able to engage the Company 23 wrench in the pulley and rest it on the frame under the air box, and use a breaker bar and iron pipe and the bolt came right out, no damage to the bolts the Company 23 wrench came with. My first timing belt install, going good so far!
I recently helped a guy who had a Gates kit installed 8 months ago (not by me!). His tensioner pulley had already failed. Definitely agree, ONLY buy Aisin or Conti kits!
Very good informative video. I have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i and I think this is the exact same procedure for my vehicle?
Thanks, just completed a Legacy 2.5i premium.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Hello, what is your recommendation for the camshaft and crankshaft/oil pump housing seals when doing the timing belt? Is it necessary to do those or leave them alone if they are not leaking? Mine is a 2011 impreza 2.5i N/A SOHC with 101k miles. I am planning on doing the timing belt soon. I think I can handle doing the seals if I get the seal puller/installer tool, my only concern is removing the oil pump (for the oil pump inlet o-ring) and having to use liquid gasket when installing
I kinda dig the neighbor going hard with the chainsaw in the background to be honest. Very helpful info all across your channel, thanks for the enlightening content.
I was flying along through this job until it came time to put the water pump cog on. I seriously thought I had been shipped a belt that was too short. No matter how hard I tried I could not get all three hatch marks on the belt to line up exactly. Then when it came time to put the cog on...Christ, what an ordeal. That belt is strung tight. I have done the timing belt on a BMW e30 and that was cake compared to this.
Great Video! I've got a question for you. I recently replaced all of the Cooling Components(Radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses and Super Coolant) with new parts from Subaru on my 2011 Outback 2.5i Premium after watching your videos which helped out greatly. Immediately after starting the engine, the Top Radiator Hose and Heater Hoses are really hot with in a minute or two and the there's heat coming out of the Dash Heater on Defrost almost instantly. The top Hose stays really hot while the lower hose barely get warm after several minutes. What's the possibility of the water pump and thermostat being bad or not working properly from the dealer? I am using the Lisle Spill Free Funnel after your suggestion and I was thinking of taking the thermostat housing off after draining the new coolant and checking the impellors on the pump and testing the thermostat and possibly not putting the thermostat back in to see if it still gets that hot after starting. any suggestion or help would be greatly appreciated.
I would like to add to this great video the following:
1. The belt's fit is very very tight, it stretches very little if anything and it's ribbed.
2. Hence, when you get it on on all the cogs, it gets divided into runs witch can stretch only within the run
3. when you do the belt on the car, even if you remove fans, you do not have visibility of all the holes where the bolts go
4. all together you need to install 1 x tensioner, 1 x cog idler, 2 x smooth idlers, top and bottom ones.
5. when you are installing the idlers and the tensioner, you have to stretch the belt (some strength is required) and fit the holding bolt into the hole you don't see - and that is not easy to do for some of them.
6. you have to start the bolts with your hand to make sure it's square fit, otherwise the steel bolts will make some mess with your aluminium engine.
So the above were just observations, and now are a couple of statements:
1. the cog pulley next to water pump and the tensioner are absolutely worst to fit in, so do them first.
MrSubaru fits the tensioner and the top idler first - that might not work for you, as the cog pulley is a dog to fit, being close to the water pump and not enough belt to stretch.
2. After you have fit the tensioner and the cog idler, install the top idler, as it's got nice long run of the belt to stretch, and then, the bottom idler, as it also has a nice long run to stretch.
That is the only way to work for me.
Thanks brother. With out I'd be lost
I have air tools, question for you, can I just use a high torque impact wrench without using the crank pulley holding tool? Great video!
What is the crank bolt torque for 2006 outback 2.5 NA? FSM says 33ft/lb initial and then 132.8ft/lb but must exceed 65 degrees to reach that, otherwise use a new bolt. Initial torque to 33 and then do an angle torque to 65-75 degrees without regard to the final torque value. Is that what you do MrSubaru or do you do the torque directions from the 2011? Thanks!
Correct.
@@MrSubaru1387 I bought a new bolt even though the original was from factory and never removed prior. On new bolt, torque to 33ft/lbs and then angle torque to 65 degrees? Thanks!
Well if you have a techangle torque wrench. You can torque them to 160ft.lbs. One and done and be good. That was the old spec.
@@MrSubaru1387 I don't have a Techangle, the Gearwrenches weren't available last year so I picked up a Quinn. I know someone who hates them but... it what I could afford as a non-professional. I planned to use the angle on the Quinn but also try to "eyeball" it and also mark a spot on the bolt. So, if the torque spec hits 160ft/lbs around the time the angle reaches 65 degrees, that should be promising. I'm trying to avoid effing things up and getting a result like you show in your video about making sure to tighten the bolt correctly. Thanks again!
That 6 0r 7 year old engine was Pristine.
So that 2011 needed a water pump after 6 yrs and ??? . . . hmmm
Any complaints about the Crank Pulley/Harmonic Balancer . . . ever had to replace one ?
No more coolant temp gauges? yikes. No CVT ATF DipStick or temp gauge . . . yikes
Does Ru care ???
Thank you Mr. Subaru for such a great video! I hope you will be doing something similar for the FB20 engine on how to get to the timing chain cover. Thank you very much!!!
dat my outback! thank for providing this video. Peace!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
I am a recently new subscriber to the channel. I have a 2009 Forrester (manual) that needs a new timing belt. Is this tutorial similar? Or is there another video I should watch? Thanks for posting great content.
Thanks so much for the video. Just finished doing the timing belt, tensioner, idlers and water pump on an 09 Impreza SOHC. Your video was extremely helpful. However, because it is too much to expect that things go smoothly, now that it's all back together I see that there is a square-ish 'L' shaped seal that is supposed to be pressed in to the left side of the water pump body (when looking from the front of the car). It looks like it maybe helps seal off between the side of the pump and the block - is this to keep dust and debris out of the timing belt compartment? Is it critical (I know, I know, it's a seal therefore important, but I'm really hoping not to have to take everything apart again... Thanks, am hoping you'll be able to answer this. Thanks for all your videos.
I last had my 2000 Subaru go through this process in 2013 with 97k at a shop. It's now at 150k, but I am probably over the limit in terms of years for replacement? Am thinking about trying this on my own..
Man, that was a big effen tree.
Great video and I like the way you show step by step procedures in your videos. You do very nice work!
Thank you.
That’s why you guys get paid the big bucks. Hahahhaha. I’m having mine done today. Do you always get a new thermostat and technically your getting a radiator flush service right? Great video. I’m gonna leave it to the pros. Haahhaha
Yes, for the cost, no reason not to replace it while the system is open and drained. Cheap insurance.
I know this is an old video but hopefully you can help me out. I'm doing the timing belt and the passenger side camshaft is pretty loose and can spin freely in either direction with the timing mark lined up, the drivers side with the timing mark lined up seems to be under tension as though the cam lobe is depressing some of the valves down. Is this supposed to be this way? I know with the crank marks lined up vertically it isn't TDS but rather somewhere in the middle, so I am thinking this is ok having what I think cylinder #2 valves partially depressed?
The crankshaft bolt was the tightest bolt I've ever gone up against (not counting rusty exhaust bolts that just snapped)
Thank you for this video.I own subaru legacy premium 2011.Now it has 130 000 miles on it.I bought 2 years ago with 110 000 miles on it .
I don,t see on my records preowner have had replace timing belt. So I have to replace or not.
Need help trying to do a timing belt replacement for a 2014 legacy SOHC can you please link the part number kit could not find when I went to Amazon. Any help would be appreciated
Thank you in advance MR. Subaru
Hi, I'm having problems keeping the drivers side cam gear in correct position and getting the toothed sprocket around the timing belt. Any tips on how you do that would be greatly appreciated.
Obviously you want to, and it's suggested to replace the timing belt. And it has to be removed to access the water pump. But it's not required to actually replace the whole timing kit, right?
Thanks for the great video! step by step and everything explained. Ive never seen that funnel tool before, i'll have to make one now!
You're welcome. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻
Mr Subaru I know I'm 5 years late but what do you do if after giving the crank bolt 2 full rotations and everything lines up, then you try to remove the 22mm crank bolt by holding one of the outside cam pulleys with a 17mm socket and hear a pop and now the two outside pulleys are timing aligned and the center crank pulley is left of center by 30 degrees
plain and basic with detailed instructions, not a bad "how to" at all, well thought out and clear.
The comments section here is golden :)
you guys have been such a help, thanks to all.
Glad you found the video helpful. 👍🏻
So I had the same issue as your brother’s car. Left me stranded on the highway, got it home. Replaced the thermostat again. Seems like it doesn’t open till 200 degrees??? I did the bleed air step and the coolant was boiling over a lot and a long while before the thermostat finally opened. Engine block got 190’s??
Heat worked intermittently. What’s going on here? Water pump was replaced 7k ago. As was the thermostat…
When ordering parts I somehow ended up with both a 88C Thermostat & a 82C; thermostat both are Subaru genuine parts - which one would you recommend installing?
Hi, I have a 2009 Forester with a EJ253 motor and 36,000 miles on it, yes that is the correct milage. I recently took it to the dealer for an airbag recall and was told the timing belt needed to be replaced because the belt is 14 years old. I told them that I did not want to do the service at that time. If I was to do it I'm confident I can to do it myself, but not sure it needs to be done. This concerned me a lot because it is an interference motor, do you think I should do the service?
Great video! Wish the torque specs were in the description, but a minor point.
Question: what does it mean and what to do if the timing marks wont line up before taking off old belt? When the crank is aligned at noon position the cams are both about 3 teeth past the position. Everything has gone smoothly until this and theres no information on the internet to troubleshoot this exact issue? Every video, including this one simply show a quick and easy timing pully alignment.
Hello !
1.) Does the plastic timing belt cover(s) have replaceable gaskets on them to keep the road-crud out?
2.) My 2011 OB 2.5 is approaching 180k. I'm going to do everything you did in this vid (timing belt, waterpump, pulleys), PLUS cam/crank seals. While I'm in that deep, do you think I should also just go ahead and replace the oil pump? Currently I have NO leaks from any of the above, nor any code issues.
** I did the rocker cover gaskets and sparkplug tube seals last summer thanks to you!
I wouldn't touch the oil pump, unless it is leaking between the oil pump and block. Yes there are gaskets for the timing covers. I'd probably replace the crank and cam seals while in there.
My sweet thing 06 2.5I is getting this to day .Almost done thanks to Mr subaru 1387 Thank you sir.
Hello, can someone help me understand when torquing the crank bolt, why do we need to turn 60deg after torqued down 47Nm? thanks
The EJ 25 SOHC engines are by far my favorite to work on. Great video!
Great video! Do you recommend anti-seize on any of the blots, or just dry other than the crank pulley bolt?
Will this work for my 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Premium?
I followed this procedure and the tensioner fell down pulling on the driver side cam pulley displacing it from it's position...
Forced to move that pulley back into place a hoping nothing bad will happen to the engine from this happening.
Wouldn't it be best to get the tensioner loose before the idlers???
It wasn't mentioned here.
Man i looked for hours on this vehicle that my neighbor asked me for help im very good at what i do but this was my first suby and man i think i put the thermostat the wrong way 😂 i didn't see when i removed it because it felt off so I didn't get a look but thanks to you I'll look tomorrow 😅
I wasn’t paying attention and the driver’s side rotated twice. So that means I roared the crank 4 times.🤦🏻♂️ Here goes nothing 🤞🏼
Nobody will see this but when trying to remove the crank pully position the tools closer together use grip strenth and not brute force my grandfather taught me this working on wind waterpumps/windmill esc waterpumps
Unfortunately I don’t have the crank holding tool, so I unfortunately have to tighten it with an impact and give it 6 ugga dugga’s. 😮
Will the aisin tkf006 kit work on a 2011 Subaru Legacy with the 2.5 non turbo???
Need help. Crank bolt out. Pulley has a little jiggle, but won’t come off. Suggestions??
great video its like you are an asmr mechanic
Thank you.
You are a LIFE SAVER!
Do you have a way to confirm that I will have this exact timing belt process? Where is the "EJ253" labeled?
I have the 2012 Outback 4-cyl 2.5i (2.5 Liter SOHC SMPI 16-valve boxer) ... early 2012, so the belt not a chain.
Thank you so very much!
It's an EJ253. Look in the passenger door jamb. There's a label with engine, transmission, paint code, VIN number, etc on it.
What would you do if you rotate the engine and the timing belt has jumped on the vehicle and the pther sprockets dont align?
If you have a manual transmission, can you put it into a gear like 4th gear instead of having that tool to remove the crank bolt?
I changed my belt this weekend thanks to your video. Thanks!
Robert, an excellent and extraordinary quality video. Everything is in the small details, as for example 27:33 Ondo izan,
@ Will Ellison
About time lapse videos (this affects to all professions nowdays); in a recent conference at the University of Malaga about journalism with three journalists, writers and interviewers (famous in Spain) Fernando Sanchez Drago, Jesus Quintero and Carlos Alsina, first of them and older (Sanchez Drago) indicated two "sins" of the actual journalists; briefness and audiencies.
When you are trying to comunicate something, it's neccesary to put in context the story, otherwise it can finish in the air and loses details.
IMHO, full length videos need a time index with the main steps, nothing more.
+torre1976 Vs glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
Why does Subaru use 2 smaller cooling fans and not one large one?
I have this same vehicle :) If it's not too late, would you consider including a Parts List (with Subaru Part Numbers too) in the description? I know that you typically video the part prior to taking it from the box, showing us the Part Number (thanks!), but I also think a Master List in the description would be awesome. I would use it as a reference check against what the guy at the Subaru Parts Counter is looking up in the schematics for me, and making sure it coincides (especially for a big commitment job like this one). Thanks for your consideration!
Michelle K. Consider getting AISIN kit, like in video, Amazon is a good source,,,,, Subaru parts are way overpriced
Both cams should always only be turned clockwise right?
Why do you have to remove the transmission line to the radiator if the radiator doesn’t have to come out
What if I fucked up and took the belt off before timing the engine. Can I time it when I put new belt in?
Cleanest engine ever that needs a new timing belt
Watching this video for the 3rd time before I attempt this myself on Saturday 😅
Took 8 hours but I did it! Thank you for the video it was a huge help!
Am I the only one not seeing the part about putting in the timing belt tensioner pin in the first place?
They are selling it for year warranty with that timing belt kit. Is it worth it?