How to fit a bath
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- Опубликовано: 3 фев 2012
- This video shows how to fit an L shaped bath. It can be time consuming to fit but it is worth spending the time to get the bath in the correct position and level. Once fitted correctly and sealed correctly your bath should last for years.
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Fantastic video and instructions mate. I'm retired and didn't have a clue how to fit a bath, but this worked very well for me and saved me a lot of grief. All the best, Dan
Just excellent, really clear with some great tips and hints. I have been diy ing 30 years and am always pleased to pick up some new methods and tips. Keep it up:-)
Thanks for the comment, I am glad the videos help ;-)
excellent vid, stout northern guy who clearly knows his stuff - helped me no end with my DIY refit.
Excellent video, with clear instructions.
+Paul Hojka
Thanks for the comment
Some really great tips here. I'm about to embark on a bathroom renovation (new bath, sink and toilet, wall tiling, hardibacker board etc.). Thanks for these useful tips!
e.g.1. ensuring the 2 walls are square at 2:22.
e.g.2. marking where the studs are at 3:40
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very good tutorial this I am fitting a new bath 27 November and have found the advise very helpful
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Always good to pick up tips from another tradesman, i understand what you mean now you've mentioned the floor. One tings for sure, that bath isn't gonna budge!
....the floor might.
Hi, always seem to like your videos on diy compared to others on here. Thanks very much been helpful indeed. Currently doin me own bathroom. One thing Id like to know is it necessary to have a mortar bed underneath an acrylic bath tub for extra strength?
thanks you were very helpful.
Great video and really helpful. Top channel.
+Byron Masters
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
great video.just finised putting a bath in. gonna go back and put the wood supports in now. Btw any ideas for putting the screws in with a right angle driver like yours?
Great upload ultimatehandyman, just getting ready to git new bath Cheers!!!
Great video, all angles covered as for as I am concerned. Keep up the good work looking forward to my 1st year plumbing course now. Is that a Blackburn accent I detect there?
Nice video, this gives me a much better idea of what I need to do now. Just one question. My friend tells me with new baths that I should put a few bricks (or something else) underneath near the middle to help support. Good idea?
been watching all your videos love them all I've recently qualified as a multi trader/ plumber I know how to install a bath I just haven't done it yet I know I can but I keep thinking what if I do it wrong
Just take your time with it and you will be fine ;-)
Best of luck with the career!
Great video, thanks. Never seen anyone go to such a degree batoning out. Is being so thorough totally necessary?
What is the green tape around the bath when you moved it into place? I'm guessing some sealant tape.
I wish you could have retrieved the missing data. Great video.
Hi,
Would you build the frame on top of lino as you do with tiles? Also would no more nails do as a an adhesive?
Cheers.
I thought I'd managed to attach one. I've worked it out now... Using a series of recessed pieces of wood that I've made and attached to the floor.
I like the way you explain, to the point and according to the real site issues.
Whats the bath tub height should be or mostly keep from the final floor?I know there is no standard set, all depand on the bath panel but in my case bath panel hasnt been decided yet. Thanks
I have no idea, sorry.
I've not installed a bath for years and have never measured it!
i need that right angle drill, dunno how i even got them screws in, in the past without that drill
They are very handy, so are these- Milwaukee OSD 2 | Right angle drill attachment
Thanks for the comment
Great thanks for the video excellent.
I am tiling my bathroom floor, I wondered if its better to tile underneath the bath or is it not necessary?
Thanks.
It is not necessary to be honest, you just end up wasting more time and money doing it.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for your reply 😀
Hi, great video very helpful. When marking out the bath height on wall for batterns to support bath edge should you do with bath filled or empty? Thanks. N
I did it with the bath empty.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
you know you screw the batten top side of the bath on wall ten do I need to screw,clip or silicon to prevent movement in bath
Hello again :-)
I'm now fitting a new bath into my full bathroom refit. The bath is a standard 1700mm long bath but its actual length seems to be more like 1705mm.
The space I have to fit the bath into is slightly smaller than 1700mm - about 1695mm (partly due to my replastering.
The old bath that was in clearly had a similar issue as the wall at the taps end was hacked out a bit.
I think it is obvious that I must also cut out a channel in the plasterboard at one end or the other so the the bath will go in. However, as I am following your instructions about tanking the bath / shower area properly, it is obvious to me that I need to create this channel right now (before tanking and tiling) so that even the channelled out bit is waterproof.
OK, so having said all that, I'm unsure about how to do what I need to do. Should I simply cut out a strip of the plasterboard (actually it's the crappy egg box stuff) 40mm or so high and for the width of the bath, so that the bath will slot in to it at fitting time? Should I line that strip inside somehow so that I can then paint on the tanking seal inside the cut out area?
I would appreciate your insight if you could.
Cheers!
Julian Smith
I'd cut the plasterboard slot out from the opposite end to the taps if possible (if you are having taps on the bath) or the taps could be too close to the wall to operate them easily.
Once you have cut out the slot from the plasterboard you can then tank it with the tanking solution.
***** Thanks. I'll let you know how this goes.
I have a small 5mm gap around the bath where it meets the wall. This is due to the position of the old metal waste pipe which I can't move without a lot of digging and plumbing. Options?
Is your data on a drive? I lost mine after I dropped the hard drive. Did you look into sending it away to be professionally examined? Contact me if you need links.
Hi, Best bath installation video I've seen! I have a couple of questions as I'm stuck with mine.
a) I have been told to tile floor after fitting the side panels. Obviously you've not done this, I was wondering why.
b) How do you attach the panels? My long panel has a bottom lip, should I cut this off to enable me to glue it to the wooden frame? My short end panel is too long. Should I cut it down? or is it just the wrong one!?
Thank you
Thanks.
a) If you tile after installing the bath panel it can make it difficult to remove the bath panel at a later date. But with some panels such as flexible plastic ones this is not an issue as you can often bend them to remove them.
b) I'm not familiar with every bath panel out there, but it sounds like yours might be designed to fit in a track or something? Are there no instructions with the panel?
No instructions at all! It's from Victoria Plum and their online instructions are pretty vague. What should I do with this bottom lip on the left of the photo?
_lh3.googleusercontent.com/J89o6jWYao6aYf6roxLpV5EXtzS_LLudEOnymGX-spBCLxzUYSb6D5FspQPhk1KnGFx7o3dDGw_
Sorry, I can't see any picture?
Hi again. Why do you stick small wooden blocks under the bath lip first to then glue the wooden frame post to it? Couldn't you glue the post directly to the bath in one go? Going further, why do you need wood blocks on the floor too? Why not just one post from floor to bath?
Also what did you glue the wood to the bath with?
Hi my bath has not came with pre drilled holes for the legs, what should I use for drilling the holes ?
Nice video and thank you for sharing. This is my first time installing a tub and I wanted to ask you a couple of questions if you don't mind? I've seen other videos where people install the frame to the sub floor. Is that okay? I only have my sub floor in at this point. I'm going to have to square my wall as well and will probably ask you about that later. I have a Duravit tub that came with brackets for the back wall but I think the way you installed the wooden support is better. Do you think I should do the same as you did? Thanks again for sharing. Wonderful video. And I'll be sure to subscribe and watch more of your videos.
There is no one way of installing a bath that everyone follows, I normally just do it this way as it always works for me and I find it easy. Of course you can install a frame to the sub floor, just do it which way seems best for your particular bath.
Best of luck with the job and thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks again. I've watched this video several times, it's a great learning tool. When you screwed the legs to the tub it looks like you didn't snug the screws down? Is that a Duravit tub? The Duravit hardware kit that came with my tub has what looks like seven (should be eight) thick washers. It's my guess they are not washers but spacers due to the big space at the distance from the tub bottom to the bracket. I wish I could attach a pic. The brackets wrapped around the bar that the feet attach to. Looks a lot like this but the c shape is more square shaped. www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Galvanized-C-shaped-metal-bracket-factory_1979367316.html
An update. I think what's happened is Duravit has included extra hardware, the hardware kit is generic or upgraded, used for more than one tub. I think I got it figured out.
the batons that you fixed to the wall to support the bath rim, is the bath sitting on them or a few mm above ? Im confused to what to do with mine as some people say the batons should not touch the bath and some people rest the bath on them entirely. thanks
The bath is sat on the baton which is fixed to the wall. This prevents the bath from flexing which breaks the sealing bead between the bath and the wall
Hi, please do you have the compete video that showed installation of the side and front panel. I have the L-shape shower bathtub and cannot figure out a way to install the front panel. Thanks
No, sorry. I did film it but my daughter was taken ill that day and the footage got accidentally deleted- along with about 13 hours of footage!
thanks ! super
+Ameer Ali
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Where did you buy the max torque adhesive,thanks.
I've seen half-rotten porches that look better than the floor you are putting that tub onto. How sure are you that the floor could hold that tub once it's full of water and a bather?
I notice you're screwing into a wooden floor there. I need to screw a bath into a concrete floor. I was thinking of using 7mm brown plugs and a suitable screw. Do you reckon that sounds ok? I'll also use a baton and grab adhesive on the walls as per your advice in the video, thanks!
Great videos, keep up the good work!
Yes, that should be fine 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
Isn't wood glue on the end grains of the supporting studs going to have close to no bond?
+pguiver
It's not really doing anything, Once the bath panel is in place. As long as the glue holds the pieces in position!
Hi again. Why do you stick small wooden blocks under the bath lip first to then glue the wooden frame post to it? I'm guessing its for easy measurement. But couldn't you glue the frame post directly to the bath in one go?
Also what did you glue the wood to the bath with?
Cheers
Most modern baths have those small wooden blocks already attached.
Hi
Is there a reason why you do not lay floor tiles on the space where the bath is fitted? Is it just your preference, or are there reasons why this is not a good idea?
Similarly, is there a reason why you do not fix wall tiles to cover the entire wall (top to bottom) where the bath fits?
Just a waste of tiles.
Very good
Thanks for the comment
Esmael Tolpa nn nb
good job
Thanks for the comment
Wel solid system of fit a bath tub
Thanks for the comment 👍
hi mate once the bath is leveled do you silicone round it with water in the bath ? and then fill it back up once your ready to tile ? bit unsure any help be appreciated cheers
I normally fit a bath sealing strip- ruclips.net/video/tRweaE32_ks/видео.html
Then tile over the top of that. Once the bath is installed fill it with water before applying a bead of silicone and leave the water in until the silicone has cured.
Getting my bathroom fitter this month. Would appreciate if you answered a few questions.
Would you advise putting moisture plasterboard on all bathroom walls or just wet areas like the shower?
Is it ok to leave some walls without moisture board in the bathroom?
Or to save room and expense could I just not use moisture board at all and instead chase the wall for the pipes and then tank the brick walls or would you say moisture board is the best option if having a shower unit?
I would just use moisture resistant plasterboard in the shower area and then tank over it.
The other areas in the bathroom do not require moisture resistant plasterboard or tanking.
I would not chase out the bricks or tank the bricks as it would not leave a good surface to tile onto.
Ultimate Handyman Cheers mate I'll do that, just 2 more questions if you don't mind. I'm having a shower bath. I'm gonna do what you did in this video, batten and board the wall where the shower and bath pipes will go, but do I need to batten and board the wall that runs along the length of the bath or should I dot and dab some board to this wall or no board at all along the length wall of the bath?
Do I need to tank the plywood beneath the bath?
If the wall that runs the length of the bath is bare brick you will have to board it out.
Dot and dab is the easiest method and will give you slightly more space than if you use battens. If using dot and dab you also need to put in some mechanical fixings to hold the boards in case of a fire.
There is no need to tank the plywood beneath the bath as the water should never get past the bath.
I'd definitely use a bath sealing strip - ruclips.net/video/tRweaE32_ks/видео.html
Ultimate Handyman Thanks for the advice. Really appreciate it.
You are welcome ;-)
Are using battens to support the bath the standard part of fitting baths. Just curious because it doesn't mention it in the bath instructions I received. It just has instructions for the legs.
Also are the horizontal wall battens for the bath completely necessary? The bath I have came with a corner fixing for attaching to the wall.
No, they often don't tell you to install supporting battens, which is why a lot of baths move away from the wall- which breaks the bead of silicone. I always put a batten along the wall and make additional battens/supports. This bath is exactly like the day it was installed, it has not move a millimetre and the silicone bead is still perfect.
It's up to you really, you can follow their instructions, or add a bit more support.
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman I read the instructions again for the ideal standard bath I brought and it does mention using wooden battens to support the sides and front. So I'll be sorting some out. Thanks.
just installed my bath do I fill with water now and silicone round it an let it cure? and also when I start tiling do I refill bath with water and tile or just tile without water in
bath .sorry for the essay lol
Did you use a bath sealing strip?
Yes iv got the strip on and bath in place leveled . but no silicone or out yet.but my wall isn't totally square like yours so was gonna silicone to make up the difference.but now the strips on iv just got a gap if you know what I mean so can't seal between edge of Bath and wall.
Sorry to be a pain
Normally I just tile down to the bath, leaving a couple of mm between the tile and the bath lip. Then once the tile adhesive has set and the tiles have been grouted I fill the bath with water and then silicone the gap between the tiles and the bath.
The tiles go over the bath sealing strip so no need to silicone before fitting the tiles. How much of a gap do you have ?
It's about the thickness of a wall tile the gap.what I was gonna do was fill the gap with silicone to square up the gap.then seal all way around the bath.with the water in then tile down to edge of the bath then seal between bath and tiling.i wasn't gonna use the strip because of this situation
In that case I would fill the bath with water and fill ant gaps with silicone.
Hopefully once tiled, grouted and silicone applied you should not be able to see it ;-)
Do you have any advice on securely connecting the trap to the waste underneath the bath - the plastic compression nut of the trap comes off the waste thread (also plastic) a bit too easily for my liking. Should I put some silicone on the thread of the bath waste before tightening the trap compression nut on ? cheers
I have never used silicone before, but the last time I installed a bath waste, I used plumbers gold on it, as that is designed for such purposes. fave.co/2IHuVl0
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman got the No Nonsense sealant/ adhesive from Screwfix following your advice - thanks once again
My bathroom floor is already tiled...Can I install a bathtub without cutting/breaking any of the floor tiles?
You should be able to, but there is a chance the tile beneath the bath feet will crack.
Hi. Love your videos. I am in the middle of doing a bathroom. I was wondering if it may be easier for me to install the batons level on the wall, rest the bath on these and then adjust the feet? That way they should all be level when they touch the floor? Is there a disadvantage to doing it that way?
As long as you get the battens level and at the correct height it should not be a problem doing it that way (providing the edge of the bath is square and level)
Ultimate Handyman thanks for the advice :)
why didn't you silicone the edge of the bath to the wall like some videos suggest? Some even suggest gluing it with CT1. Also you haven't used any brackets.
I used a bath sealing strip, which goes behind the tiles- ruclips.net/video/tRweaE32_ks/видео.html
I didn't need brackets, as I used a batten, which is better, as it supports the lip of the bath 👍
After you tanked the walls, you then tiled the walls. How did you fix the baton to the wall with out damaging the taking system to start your first row?
I used the tile tracker to hold the tiles, but you could put the batten lower down ( much lower than the lip of the bath) then you are not piercing the tanking above the bath where the tanking is needed.
+Ultimate Handyman wow thanks for the quick response 👍 do I then just push the bath up to the tiles rather than tile onto the bath?
+Ultimate Handyman I have just looked at tile trackers. Il get one of those, didn't even know they existed. Thanks a lot. Keep up the good work
You are welcome.
It depends how you are doing it. I tend to put the bath in position and mark the wall and then remove it before tiling (this way there is no chance of damaging the bath). I then tile the wall but leave the last row near to the bath, then install the bath and then install the last row of tiles by scribe cutting them to the exact size.
They are great and can make tiling walls much easier ;-)
Thanks for the comments
the bath we have purchased has a wooden batten the full length of the top of the bath and there is no gap to slot the side panel in any ideas?? Thanks
+Peter Smith
I'm not sure Peter, sorry.
I have only installed a few baths. I'm sure one of them had a piece of timber running the full length, but there was a gap to slot the bath panel in.
Did you buy it from a reputable place and buy the bath and panel at the same time? If so it might be worth giving them a call.
What is "skwer" please?
Mark Taylor
What time do I say it Mark?
I'll try and translate it LOL
+Mark Taylor 'square' ;)
How would you then remove a panel that was fitted like this?
Normally the panel just pushes into position and will stay there, although it might be fixed by a screw or two. Because of the shape of the bath panel, they are self supporting and will not fall over.
How do you fit the L shape bath panel please?
Thanks
I did video this, but lost the footage!
I assembled the panel and pushed it into place, then marked the floor where the panel sits, then measured the thickness of the panel and drew a line. I then glued 3*2 battens to the floor, then made supports going to the top of the inside of the bath. The panel was fixed to the supports in just two places using countersunk screws.
The L shaped panels are quite sturdy and self standing, so they don't require much fixing.
i am trying to fit a bath but the corner is not sqaure. However both walls are brick+plaster. What would you recommend i should do? Should I cut into the plaster ? I would have sent you a picture but cant seem to see a way how to do it.
I normally fix a piece of moisture resistant plasterboard using timber to square it up, but that is a big job if you are at the bath fitting stage.
I have seen people cut the plaster away, but you have to watch out if it's at the tap end, as the taps can be too close to the wall after it has been tiled, making some taps difficult to operate.
Good luck with it.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman hi - thats a good point about the taps - i did wonder if I would have sufficient space for the taps if i cut 10mm in the plaster. I think i will have to build up the section of the wall that's not true with plaster. As I am am on the subject of bath installation, what is the convention for tiling in the bathroom? Do you tile the whole floor before installing the bathroom suite or install first and tile around?
If the bath is level , how does the water drain away. Cheers
The bottom of the bath slopes towards the plug hole.
Thanks for the comment
Some ideas have just popped into my head after looking at a brand new upside down bath in a newly prepared bathroom in my house.
After you've positioned the bath in place and all level and twat on straight and so on.. you could dump a can of two of expanding foam underneath it.
don't all laugh at once; here's the reasoning:
1. it will set solid; and you all know how tough plasterboard goes after its been glued to the wall with this stuff
2. you could half fill the bath with water to stop the (probably considerable) uplift caused by the foam expanding over such a large area. use bits of wood or cardboard to stop the foam getting to bits it doesn't need to get to.
3. when its set, you've glued the bath to the floor. O shit, but..... you've provided about a square metre of support area for the baseboard and by anyone's reckoning, that must be better for the bath itself and any flooring underneath than a single leg in the middle of the tub.
4. You can do it in phases to stop the foam going crap in the middle because its too thick
5. it will provide another layer of insulation for the bath to stop all that lovely hot water getting cold on erm.. her arse. heh heh...(its all about requirements)
Unless you need to move the bath around the room regularly I can't see a reason why not to do this for 8 quid's worth of foam cans.
Another one that popped up is... some PVA and a roll of cheap tin foil, glue the foil to the outside of the bath and let it dry then paint that with PVA again and then spray that with a few cheap cans of expanding foam using the polythene that came covering the bath to keep it in manageable layers pressed on the outside of the foam when its still wet,..... one insulated bath for about £20;
Why let the heat out ?
Sounds like a plan ;-)
In a practical situation one has to deal with the site condation, one can not 'move' the walls. Otherwise good informative video.
What size wood is best to use for the batton? 2x1 ok?
and the wood for the floor/supports, all same size?
I think I used something a bit more substantial, If I remember rightly I used 3*2 but you could probably get away with 2*, it depends how strong you want it to be.
Thanks for the comment
Does the battern sit on the lip of the bath
Yes 👍
@@ultimatehandyman is that bette than using the bath fixing provided
*_THE BATH_*
Take the plasterboard off and throw it in the skip then replace it with WEDI BOARD
Moisture resistant plasterboard is fine, especially once it has been tanked ;-)
would have tile walls round the bath then fit the bath
Thanks for the comment
hi has the bath not got to have a slight fall to the plug hole for drainage.and also mate my bath has no holes pre drilled for the taps is there a tip/trick for marking out before drilling them.any help be appreciated cheers
Hi, no the bath has a built in fall so you just need to fit it so that the top is level.
For the tap drilling I would cover the end of the bath with masking tape, then measure it and mark out the holes using a engineers square. You should be able to find the centre of the bath, then mark out the tap holes from that ;-)
Ultimate Handyman
thanks for that I will be tackling it this week with a bit of luck. should be OK.i ain't got one of them flat drills to screw the legs down but il figure somert out 🖒
wow what is that laser gadget thing called..where can I buy one?...girl wanting boys toys...erm..could you fit my bath too!!
Its a laser level, mine is a Makita- ruclips.net/video/8S0_r4jvdMM/видео.html
Anyone that does a lot of DIY needs a laser level (just in case you need to justify the cost to your partner).
I'm sorry, I don't do work for anyone as I am far too busy.
Thanks for the comment
your drill light only comes on when your drilling ? funny
I'm going to say...Leigh.
Not a million miles away, Darwen, Lancs
square
Bloody hell mate, do you want a knife and fork? Because you're making a meal out of that! taking the plasterboard off and squaring the wall....
Just fill the 1cm gap in and tile over it and the silicone line will probably get it anyway...
I clicked on the link, I was what the fuck am I going to watch here. As soon as I heard the English accent I knew it would come good. good how to bud. cheers
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment