I don't own any MASK currently, but I am working on a little project with LEDs, and I'm a complete novice, there. This video legitimately really helped me sort out my wiring issues! Thank you so much! Also, the Thunderhawk looks amazing with working headlights. The UV Resin for the lenses was pretty darned genius, too. They look fantastic.
A few suggestions from an old tike model builder (pre-LED). Get warm white LEDs, they look more like incandescent bulbs for the vintage look. To cut down on light bleed, black styrene makes great boxes to contain the light as well as covering the area and LED in liquid electrical tape and the tape removable. This is similar to PlastiDip. TEST IT FIRST!! Clear styrene rod (left over from model kits, ask your friends for the leftovers) can be attached LED to end with that UV glue. Cheap heat shrink, liquid tape, or thick brushed on layer of black paint with keep the light in the pipe, plus it can be bent. You can also use the tiny LED wire fairy lights that have a 3AA battery pack. Not sure what they are called locally. Carefully cut the wire and carefully remove the varnish. Some light sets can take solder and the varnish came be removed that way. And finally, save that 3AA pack for display only stuff. To hook up to your item, use short sections of telescopic brass tube. Make two small holes for the larger diameter brass and mark which one is positive (red). Attach you LEDs to these tubes. Attach (solder, crimp, crush) wires to the smaller brass tubes. Plug the smaller tubes in when on the shelf and remote mount the power switch. Unplug when handling. Works a treat when doing multiple dioramas with a single toy/model. You can get creative when mounting the brass tubes, such as in the bottom of tires (or tyres). Plus in one and minus in the other.
Light bleed is always an issue when adding lghts to anything. I've seen many out of the box toys with the issue. One thing that might help minimise it would be to use some heat shrink around the led so that only the front where you actually want to light to be is uncovered. Hopefully it would block the light emitted from the side of the led.
Great stuff! You might like to ebay SMD LEDs, they make lighting small spacially tight things a bit easier to wire up. (you might light transformers eyes!) Aluminium tape is very thin, and a good light blocker. It's much less messy than paint, and quick to do
Pin vice was the way to go with the headlights. Handy drill would've probably been too aggressive and the plastic too brittle as you were leaving a thin bit of plastic at the top. Good job!
where did you get that little blue drill? seems very useful to avoid light bleeding through the hood you could have painted the interior of the shell black. it would have kept the lights confined to the head lights. Great job as always!
I always love seeing you work on the vehicles from the Kenner M.A.S.K. line! I think it turned out great, Dave! I was thinking that if I did something similar to one of my Thunderhawks, I might use some of that wavy plastic that they use on lenticular toys to put over the drilled out light holes. That might give the lights more of a diffused look. Worth a try I reckon. :) Loved this one, amigo!
thats sooo cool. now you should do it with some other vehicles ... did you ever watch visionaries knights of the magical lights cartoon. the toys are amazing.
I don't own any MASK currently, but I am working on a little project with LEDs, and I'm a complete novice, there. This video legitimately really helped me sort out my wiring issues! Thank you so much! Also, the Thunderhawk looks amazing with working headlights. The UV Resin for the lenses was pretty darned genius, too. They look fantastic.
A few suggestions from an old tike model builder (pre-LED). Get warm white LEDs, they look more like incandescent bulbs for the vintage look. To cut down on light bleed, black styrene makes great boxes to contain the light as well as covering the area and LED in liquid electrical tape and the tape removable. This is similar to PlastiDip. TEST IT FIRST!!
Clear styrene rod (left over from model kits, ask your friends for the leftovers) can be attached LED to end with that UV glue. Cheap heat shrink, liquid tape, or thick brushed on layer of black paint with keep the light in the pipe, plus it can be bent.
You can also use the tiny LED wire fairy lights that have a 3AA battery pack. Not sure what they are called locally. Carefully cut the wire and carefully remove the varnish. Some light sets can take solder and the varnish came be removed that way.
And finally, save that 3AA pack for display only stuff. To hook up to your item, use short sections of telescopic brass tube. Make two small holes for the larger diameter brass and mark which one is positive (red). Attach you LEDs to these tubes. Attach (solder, crimp, crush) wires to the smaller brass tubes. Plug the smaller tubes in when on the shelf and remote mount the power switch. Unplug when handling. Works a treat when doing multiple dioramas with a single toy/model. You can get creative when mounting the brass tubes, such as in the bottom of tires (or tyres). Plus in one and minus in the other.
Light bleed is always an issue when adding lghts to anything. I've seen many out of the box toys with the issue.
One thing that might help minimise it would be to use some heat shrink around the led so that only the front where you actually want to light to be is uncovered. Hopefully it would block the light emitted from the side of the led.
Hey Dave
Always enjoy your custom builds, great episode.
Take care and Happy Weekend 😊
Super cool! It turned out really well.
Thank you! Cheers!
Awesome! ......Toootally Awesome! 😎👍💯
I love your work! :) Well done!
Thank you! Cheers!
Love your custom jobs!
Thank you! Cheers!
Another banger video. Excellent work as usual.
Appreciate that
The Thuderhawk looks pretty sharp with those headlights. Nice work 👍😎
Thanks 👍
I think aviation standard red and green blinking LED on the door wings for flight mode would be cool, although running the wire would be a challenge.
Great stuff! You might like to ebay SMD LEDs, they make lighting small spacially tight things a bit easier to wire up. (you might light transformers eyes!) Aluminium tape is very thin, and a good light blocker. It's much less messy than paint, and quick to do
Pin vice was the way to go with the headlights. Handy drill would've probably been too aggressive and the plastic too brittle as you were leaving a thin bit of plastic at the top. Good job!
where did you get that little blue drill? seems very useful
to avoid light bleeding through the hood you could have painted the interior of the shell black. it would have kept the lights confined to the head lights.
Great job as always!
He did a review of it around 7 months ago. Search for the video
Tamiya Electric Handy drill build and review - Toy Polloi
ruclips.net/video/qGtLA0tz02Q/видео.htmlsi=LIHQSAQFRhxGP5Am
I always love seeing you work on the vehicles from the Kenner M.A.S.K. line! I think it turned out great, Dave! I was thinking that if I did something similar to one of my Thunderhawks, I might use some of that wavy plastic that they use on lenticular toys to put over the drilled out light holes. That might give the lights more of a diffused look. Worth a try I reckon. :) Loved this one, amigo!
Thanks. The thunderhawk would look good with lights. I've been thinking on that one as well.
maybe some foil on the inside to stop light from shining through
thats sooo cool. now you should do it with some other vehicles ... did you ever watch visionaries knights of the magical lights cartoon. the toys are amazing.
I never liked the wheels on the thunder hawk. Any chance you can do a video where you replace them. Maybe make them look a little bit more dynamic
One i dont own got matt , should paint inside black stop blead i like the replacement parts i got a rhino to do i like the resin and chrome paint
I love your vids but YT making me watch 4 ad breaks totalling 2 1/2 minutes is starting to get a bit ridiculous