Water Pressure Booster Pump
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- Опубликовано: 12 ноя 2018
- Home Improvement Online With Ron Hazelton
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I am surprised that you did not leave a link to this water pump in the description of this video.
It’s a Grundfos EZ Boost
Thank you so much for your videos! I was able to do my drive way last year thanks to you! Lets see if I can boost my water :)
Very nice that looks like a great system
Thank you for this video very helpful I do got low water flow at my house I love to install this system very compact.
This is good advice if you have a reasonably modern abode with stable and robust pipework. If however, your house is a little older and still has those old zinc pipes for instance, you might want to hold off increasing your base water pressure, unless of course you enjoy having leaks.
Hi Ron. I installed this. It blew all the hair off my head and well.. other areas. Now I’m bald. Sooo yeah, thanks.
HAHA Grady
😂😂😂
That was hilarious..
wtf you talkin bruh ?
Classic Grady.
@@nighttrain022 a
Grundfos booster pump well known brand world wide. Its very good for even industrial application too.
Thank you I am impressed
So basically this is a deep well pump encased in an outer jacket that connects to water mains at the bottom inlet. The weak water pressure fills the inner outer casing that houses the well pump, and when the pump runs it works the same way it would work in a well, it draws water trough 6 or more impellers inside trough the sides of the pump and forces it out the top outlet. Quiet a genius idea actually, grundfos never seizes to amaze me with their product ingenuity!
I second this! Absolutely love Grundfos products.
Totally geeked right now!
Perfect Show!
very professional job, thank you
Very watchable great narration
Great job
Expansion tank should have been installed upside down to prevent water becoming stagnant and growing bacteria.
Your joking right, do you understand how an expansion tank works?
@@msk3905 The water heater should have been installed upside down too. This allows a more fluid water flow.
exactly what i was thinking. how will air even stay in if the in/out is on the top.
Exactly what I was thinking too
It is not a expansion tank...it is accomulator one site of it air with balloon to boost the pressures. For no water stagnation, you always circulate the water.
Wow! never seen this before.thanks for share
I am wondering when you have PVC pipes or an older home if turning that pressure up to 100 pounds you might in up with leaking pipes all through your house? You might even end up with leaks at 70 pounds?
Super nice entertaining informative educational
Nice job guys
Hey Ron how should I research to get this done on my property should I go first to a plumber or the website of the company that makes this product thank again for your feedback. Must have!
The 40psi showing on the gauge is the deadhead pressure and is of little value in this scenario. Once you have a multiple faucets flowing at the same time, such as in my 3-bath house in the morning, the limiting factor of water flow rate at the outlets is the pipe size going into the house from the water main. For a 1" or smaller incoming pipe, no amount of boost pump can help when three showers are in full operation simultaneously. The solution here is a pressurized well tank with adequate reservoir volume, other than a water tower.
Nice install 👍🏻
That's cold do it yourself! Saving a big plumber bill! Thank you for sharing this video!
There's hope for those who live in Houston. The water pressure is so bad that an old man with a prostate the size of a pumpkin could piss further than the water stream coming from the garden hose with a spray tip on it.
I wouldn't live in Houston (again) for all the water pressure in the world.
This is one hell of a comment. It made me feel just like my grandpa was back with us in the world again. Thank you!
Good info. PEX is the absolute future. Solid, and freeze proof. It beats copper and CPVC. CPVC is cheaper, in a production setting-I.e. apartments, but PEX is the best thing that you can put into your modern home. Virtually all soldered copper connecdtions leak- at some point.
Does this pump increase the pressure or does it have it's own pressure? Somethting similar to this on my sprinkler system.
I had this system installed in my new house on a well. Only difference is the pump itself went down in the well. It has been in for 14 years without any problems and it puts out amazing water pressure especially fora well. Even when multiple taps are on. I would highly recommend
How much did it cost?
The system you have installed in your well is completely different. It does look similar though the way it operates and is built is different than the one you see here.
I think 80 psi max is code some places and high pressure is rough on appliances. Definitely a quick way to test all your plumbing joints and appliances connections for leaks.
It building standard. Also all fixtures are manufactured to this standard. Though you can do what ever you like in your own home 🏡. Though 70 psi is comfortable. No one likes it any higher. You will be taking a shower feeling like your skin is peeling off.
Would that work on a water catchment tank..and would that cost that install
How much noise does this pump make while it’s on?
Where can I buy the pump mounting clamp?
isnt that for deep well? nways very sleek neat piping you have there👍🏼
Just be aware that in New York State while connected to a Public Water Supply use of any pressure boosting device is legal only if its use doesn't drop the main's water pressure to below 20 psi...NYS Part 5 Sanitary Code. Nice video Ron...miss your show!
The booster system should only boost pressure not pull a suction on the supply line.
@@kscipkkkk Any booster has suction but the utility will have pumps to maintain their pressure
Thank you for you video.
Can you tell me exact company name and model number? Ans that company tech comes out to install the system? It has been 2 years since your video came out do you still satisfy with it?
One hole Straps on the MC cable would be good too
Ron
You should add to check your local and state codes.
In home booster pumps are not allowed on Community Water Systems. You mentioned this was on a municipality, which is a CWS.
This is to prevent potentially contaminated house water from overcoming main line pressure and then contaminating the main.
The water department personnel should have informed you of this.
EPA minimum requirements are 35 psi at ground level, not to drop below 20 psi.
Typical pressure reducing valves are factory set at around 55 psi. 70 is pushing interior plumbing capabilities.
Perhaps a TESTABLE back flow preventor would help or be accepted by your municipal water operator.
At least a double check valve on the main supply line into the home would be warranted.
What significance would a double check assembly have on a booster system???
@@kscipkkkk
Double check or even 2 check valves are required on booster pumps like sprinkler booster pumps.
Its also to prevent contamination as a single check can grow bacteria across it.
2 are better than one.
A double check is a standard item and comes as one unit.
A testable device is preferred if contamination is a concern.
If a testable device is required it also can not be bypassed. So 2 devices must be installed if service cant be interrupted like in a multiple apartment or Hospital etc..
A shower operating at 20-50 psi really, really, really sucks. Takes two to three times as long so no water savings whatsoever. Plus, try rinsing, say, long hair under what virtually amounts to a drinking fountain. Not nice.
Old houses are going to have leaks when pressure is up this high too. I increased the diameter of my pipes and changed as many 90 degree elbows to gradual bends where I could. Required less pressure to get more water volume to the faucets and shower. All that water hitting the restrictive outlets boosted outlet pressure.
Nice video keep it up, full support🥰🥰🥰
Can't find this on their web site ?
Can something like this be used with a cistern?
Did that come with the pressure tank?
Does this pump assist pressure on a well property?
Hello Mr. Hazleton & thanks for sharing. I've one question in houses where plumbing systems use PVC pipes instead of copper pipes do you recommend if the houses face same scenario of low water pressure to use water pressure booster pumps?
PVC can stand easily over 550 psi so yeah it can handle anything any booster pump can throw at it.
@@ktms1188 not true at all
@@andreozzii 3/4" schedule 40 PVC has a max pressure of 1500psi. I am not following? Even thin walled PVC can easily handle 500+. You can google to double check of don't believe me. Cheers.
What is danger of blowing out a weak fitting or even pipe?
Cool 😎
wow!
Nice
what is the average gpm for outdoor faucets with city water?
Ron, I'm interested in the pump you used but could not find it when I searched Grundfos EZ Boost? Might you have the model number of the unit you used? I like the wall mount feature and the quiet operation.
It’s has been discontinued. Some online retailers might have some in stock
Where can I buy one !
Where can I find the system you are using?
Years ago I lived in a house that was on the end of a utility district water service. The pressure was always low but so too was the water volume. A simple pressure pump would have only allowed me to run out of water and suck any debris into the system with the negative pressure. A better solution would be to add a water holding tank with a float switch to keep it filled and then a whole house pressure pump fed from the holding tank. It's how my well system works at my current home. I can set the pump pressure for the best performance in my home and virtually have all the water volume I need at the same time. I would guess this isn't much more expensive than the system ron just installed.
71160000 I sure would like to get some specifics on your system cause it’s exactly what I need to install but don’t know what pumps, floats and other parts to get. Could you share your info please?
@@1982MCI I have a 550 gallon holding tank with a float switch in it but if you have line pressure coming in you'll need a valve controlled by the float switch. The tank is then plumbed into an external pump that is set for the pressure you need along with a pressure tank that allows the line pressure to stay at that level as the line pressure drops from using water in the house. This prevents the pressure pump from running every time you open a tap for a minute. For safety you might add another float switch to shut off the pressure pump in the event it gets ahead of line water supply. Any good well drilling company should be able to set it up for you if it's a little too confusing to do. Stay away from submersible pumps in the holding tank. I went through several in a short period of time and the external pump has lasted for years with no issues.
I adjusted the regulator on the main input to bump the pressure up from 40 to only about 55 psi and it blew out the bottom of my hot water tank. If you're thinking about adding a booster pump, I'd check my appliances first and get new ones if they are old else same will happen especially if you going to boost to 70-90 psi!!
I have a well system and had the same problem. I fixed mine by adding more air pressure into the bladder.
Are you trying to put plumbers out of business?!
@@TheMityquin Well it was a lot cheaper than what a plumber wanted to do and could not guarantee it would provide more pressure. and the plumber couldn't touch it as my well is a shallow well and inside my house. He would have to drill a new well for a few grand. as well in new homes have to have a deep well. my well is grandfathered in as long as it works. That's why I do my own repairs on it. lol
Do you mean you adjusted the pressure controls that activate the pump?
@@65csx83 Did nothing to the pump controls. just added air to the tank. brought it to 45 lbs.
What do you do if, in the future, you need to remove those pressed fittings?
You have to cut every thing and start over, very pricey.
How much did it cost you? The total all inclusive cost.
Do they have these for mobile homes?
Nice video, informative. 👏👏👌
Was wondering - how do we get to know the max pressure that could be handled by the plumbing system, as also the equipments such as cisterns, faucets , showers etc. ?
UPC 608.2
Water pressure should never exceed 80 psi. That's code
Wounder how much it would cost for professional install
How does this work as far as how long is it able to keep the 70psi going? I mean, at what point does it start to loose pressure? If the water coming into the house is low (40psi) is there a point that it starts to loose pressure? I only ask because I have a wife and daughter that take long showers.
I need that system.
Not a plumber, but I would’ve added a shut off for the expansion tank in case it fails. Nice video.
or keep a 3/4 threaded plug on hand for while waiting for a replacement
Not code everywhere.
There’s a bypass plumbed in.
But should have added in a drain off below the pump inlet
@@brenteisner3665 Al S , I believe , is referring to expansion tank being able to be isolated from pump system . (in this house the only reason for expansion tank is for hot water over-expansion-pressure now that the pump has the home pressure at a safe high limit , but a leak in expansion will eventually happen requiring a replacement ) (just a small , inexpensive convenience this expensive install should have included )
Harbor freight has a simpler pump I installed in my sons house. Works great and cost $149. and simple installation with just a plug for the electrical.
What’s it called?
@@joshlaubach8166 Shallow well pump.
Just a pointer... 45 psi through a 3/4" pipe is plenty if you remove the flow restrictors in the shower head and faucets. That would be the cheap fix for flow problems as ALL NEW water fixtures have these flow restrictors. In the case where the plastic / rubber flow restrictor is part of the assembly you can heat a nail (hold it with pliers) and use that to open up the small holes. It ain't exactly rocket science that a small hole allows less water... and that's an easy fix.
WONT HELP IN ALL CASES.SOME HOMES JUST DONT HAVE ENOUGH PRESSURE.MINE JUST RECENTLY DROPPED VERY LOW OUT OF NO WHERE .
@@619kane … you have to start somewhere and that's knowing the static pressure of the system. (usually in the basement) Open a faucet and see what the pressure change is. If it drops more than aboout 10% with one fixture flowing you may have a restriction outside the house. (buried pipe to the street main?) Some homes have a filter screen at the water meter, or the pressure reducing valve. If the screen is clogged you can have low flow. If you have a well instead of public water the idea is the same but starts at the well tank / pump. Without a proper diagnosis you can't get a proper fix. As I said before, 45 psi is enough if there are no restrictions.
Just installed two new shower heads- there are two restrictors in each of them. Pretty easy to remove and makes a big difference in the shower.
I myte do that myself look at the flow restriction in 1 of my pipes that's for sharing this advice
@@619kane in my area i will have exceptional pressure for maybe a week or a few days then the pressure will go back to normal which is half of what the "exceptional" feels like. I had the city come out bc they said my pressure was low, they ripped up some of the street replaced the old pipes and afterwards it was exactly the same. its the city throttling the pressure bc they suck. i am going to call them back out again.
Have coworker that had too high pressure. He found this out when shower valve seals were failing repeatedly and manufacturer came back to say the water pressure was too high.
Quick look up and 55 psi is recommended with 80 psi safe max. Higher the boost, higher risk of a failure such as seal or flexline rupture.
Sorry to be so late to the party. but could this be added to the water flow after water leaves a whole house water softener? We get about 40PSI from the well pump - it goes through a charcoal filter then a Morton WHS and we get about 25 to 30 PSI out of the softener.
Anyone know if this will work with well water?
How you wana use 100 psi in water lines if the inspection requirement its only 35 psi ? To many questions on it .
The static line test requires 100 psi to held for the inspector. Normally most inspectors will look for it to held overnight.
Great video, How much it did cost you ?
A lot of money
I love at 4:39, you see an electrical outlet right below the water pipe… Isn’t that a big no-no.
and we know this receptacle isn't gf protected being a now wet location ...in older basements probably
Wow very nice 🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩
Why didn't they add a filter before that pump? It might be a little pricey replacing the seals in it.
Then that would keep the service calls down and they don't want that.
Good thinking
Can’t block the flow from the pressure sensor or it will cause the pump to run dry - always filter after the pressure sensor device.
Agreed
How fast does it drain your water heater!!!!!!!! What if you have a tankless
I can dig it
Is it legal to install?
Never seen that crimp technique on the copper pipe before. How does that work, is there like a compression ring inside it?
Actually it's the way it's shaped, and uses o rings, not a compression styled Brass ferrel you see in other plumbing valves
Here in Ireland these things are Illegal because they suck on the mains feed this causes negative mains pressure as regard the surrounding soil, so can suck in ground water crap incl sewage etc, the correct procedure is to have a large buffer tank filled with normal mains pressure (clean and contamination free) and then boost, the tank will even out the intermittent demands
Yep the bloody stuff never stops running
Ron, I sure wish this could be an easy solution to my dad's water pressure problem. The trouble he has is old Galvanized pipes. Only some of his piping has been updated to copper. His main line from the meter to the house is galvanized, and until that pipe is replaced, I am sure his pressure " before" a pump like this would still not keep up to make enough flow. Of course all his riser pipes are still galvanized too. Only the easy horizontal pipes to the water heater, laundry, basement toilet and 1st floor kitchen were replaced by the plumber he hired to " fix" his no pressure issue a few years back.
Grundfos Scala2 constant pressure pump, all in one. About $700. If necessary cut out some galvanized at the desired pump location and adapt to pex and stainless steel flex with no liner. Ideally setup bypass valves but not essential initially. Allow room however. I have seen this work with 15 psi incoming boosted to 60.
It would be interesting to open another tap when checking the water pressure.
Which nut did you have to sell? Asking for a friend. TY
Can you use this pressure pump on a hydronic circulator pump for better heating circulation? and reduce air in line.
no
wont work...if you have a problem with circulation check the pressure at your boiler..
Those flexi lines will fail. That twist in the line will cause failure within two to three years. You need to pull the hoses back slightly on final tighten up so when it is tight they are in a relaxed state. Seen so many fail because of this.
What do you mean by "fail" ? Collapse? leak?
@@rkempson1177 Leak.The inner liner fails as it is under tension. The inner liner will split and leak.
@@PeterAlexanderWelch Those stainless types have no liners, they are the same as water heater flex, not cheaper washing machine flex. Check them out at Home Depot near the water heaters.
Since the incoming pressure is less, how long does the pump keep up with the desired outgoing pressure? It’s got to have some kind of recovery time, correct?
DanThe Guy That’s an extremely poor explanation. What the pump is doing is increasing the flow rate. That’s why the bucket fills up in half the file. You won’t get that result by putting a spray nozzle on the end of a hose 🤪🤪🤪🙈
They supply network will be a 4 inch main on the footpath, feeding a 3/4 or 1 inch feed to the house.This tiny pump will never be able to suck the network dry, and flow will always be adequate to the pump.
@@PeterAlexanderWelch Of course,you bypass lines that cant handle it or upgrade.
The pump has 2 ends: the other produces suction. The incoming municipal water supply flow would increase because of pump draw but the flow would not be depleted because the municipal system is massive by comparison. The limit would be based on constriction due to supply pipe size.; e.g., if the pump were capable of 1000 lbs, the supply lines to the house may not handle the needed flow causing the pump to cavitate.
Well how much was it you never mentioned the cost
Does this thing take the hammer effect out of your plumbing when turning on a faucet ?? I know it’s air in the line but how do you get rid of that permanently?
I have one of the canisters like the one in the video installed and it works great. But I don't have copper pipes. If you do, they can make a lot of noise. The copper pipes hit the wood in the walls. It's awful and very hard to fully solve the problem without finding all the points and stuffing styrofoam in and around each of the angle joints.
@@shinigamilee5915 thanks for the info. I have copper pipes so good to know.
Those S/Steel flexible pipes have a rubber tube inside and blow out in a few yrs.
Yrs?, ok
could you have just used PEX for the supply line to the new pressure pump and back to the house supply line?
Not if he wanted to show off that special tool.
I've never met a plumber that recommends over 40psi. The problem is either undersized supply pipes or dirty aerators.
I was wondering that about the pressure. I think moms well is around 50
Yeah my twenty four to thirty five psI PRESSURE SWITCH JUST ENOUG FOR MY HOME
MAYBE NOT SO FUN FOR SHOWERING BUT ENOUGH
@@tractorboy31 50 psi isn't unusual to see. But I wouldn't go no higher.
@@leonardhall7203 yeah i use the compressor to blow out moms camper for the winter and i set the regulator down to 30. Plumbing can only take so much pressure
Most municipalities provide 55-65psi, so I'm not sure who these plumbers are.
notice how rick reverses his cutter without sanding the copper pipe clean first, yes rick loves doing things the hard way. poor rick , don't be like rick, think ahead
You don't need to clean the pipe when you pro press
I really need a sprinkler water pressure booster pump for my garden. The source of water is from a reservoir. Assist with a lead or brand that can be useful in water and time management, please. Thanks a lot!
Why was the expansion tank mounted upside down?
Doesn't matter what the orientation of a bladder tank is, works the same in any position.
Pump is $1300-1500 not including fittings pipe ect,ect,
? $2000.00 not including labor and electrician whoa
ya i cant afford that. i was looking for a pump under 200
Can you send me the link where i can order it?
Where I can order it?
@@yaritzadiaz7964 dude u could buy a car with that money
@@xenomorph7299 find an old hot water heater, clean it out, plug the heater core stuff but keep the swirl input, have your water source fill into the 40 or even 80-gallon hot water heater tank and use a simple and cheap float shut off. Then attach a 3/4 or even 1 hp pump to the tank you just build (harbor freight under $150) then T off to an expansion tank after the expansion tank put a pressure switch in line to control the pump... you could do it for about $200...
How much is it and can this be installed with a water tank that's supplied by a well?
That is what I was thinking, Did you find the answer?
Shouldn't need it with a well. It has all those controls already; just a matter of adjusting the pressure switch.
I'll keep this is mind when I buy my own house, I like hot showers with tons of water but most houses we've rented have lousy showers with too little water
How can you get more water when the water company is supplying the water at 42 pounds? For a short time with the pump and water hammer device, after that you can't suck that much more water from the main. Seems like you would need 2 huge water/air tanks piggybacked for back up when taking a shower.
Help me so much
This is probably the most expensive way to fix your water pressure. Install a small 100-gallon tank with a float shut-off and add a 3/4 hp motor and expansion tank. Use an old hot water heater as a buffer tank and you might spend $300... I hope this video was sponsored especially with that expensive tool he was so impressed with.
Good luck doing any repairs on that copper tubing.
Simple to replace....
It looks like a half inch pipe coming in for supply. Should have found where that pipe was reduced in size and go bigger.
@:47 he's holding the house main. 3/4".
That's great, but it looks pricy. Are there any other more affordable solutions?
The house I have now is really bad since they built about 30 more houses in the area..There
has to be a less invasive way to give my water a little push.☝
Buy a100V inline pump from MSC and a well pump pressure regulator. That's all you need. Maybe add a pressure tank.
40lbs that's pretty good man I've rarely seen over 30 in NY