I spent a lot of time looking into pumps for my gravity system but there seemed to bit a lot of issues with sound and them wearing out top soon. My plumber suggested swapping to a pressurised system instead and its been great. I needed a new cylinder and a few pipework changes but I've now got great mains pressure on hot and cold and I've gained lots of space by removing the pipe and tank in the loft. No worries about pumps.
I ended up buying a pump express accumulator tank, 500 litre, as were getting 1 litre a minute on the main. First we had a salamander boost which helped the combi actually work, then we enquired about a new poly pipe main and they wanted 5 grand to install it. The pump and tank system cost me a grand and gives 20+ litres a minute at 3 bar. Absolutely stunning showers now and we can open numerous taps and flush toilets without any problem. Quite a mission to install as the tank is huge and ideally must be on a concrete floor as it's half a tonne. But it went in nicely and I'm made up with the massive pressure and flow rate.
I keep prevaricating. We have a 3 bed 1950's built mid terrace that had central heating installed about 20 years ago. It was a traditional system with a cold water tank in the loft, hot water tank in a built in cupboard in one of the bedrooms, and a Glow Worm 50 FF boiler in a cupboard on the landing. Our central heating lady says whatever we do, don't get rid of the boiler as it's bomb proof. The problem is that the shower pressure is not very good. The tank in the loft is raised up which helps, and we have a handset that is designed for low pressure systems and does help a bit. We thought about a shower pump but am a bit concerned about noise and vibration ( before I retired I repaired electrical motors/ pumps / generators and I've stripped down a fair few domestic pumps ) been retired a decade so not sure if things have progressed much. Another possibilty that our plunber mentioned was fitting a System tank. The third option is a Heat Pump, I've followed Rogers videos over the years and he does seem to be mellowing about their use 😂 As I said, decisions, decisions...
I believe they have a built in pump, and that you can adjust the water pressure to your liking. I’ve had two houses with combi boilers, but not for a decade or so, so my comment is worth what you paid for it 😇
@SalamanderPumps We don't have water tanks and are mains fed. Great pressure, and our combi boiler feeds our hot water needs easily. Cold water is like a fireman's hose (oh matron!) Not sure we need a pump.
I live in Bristol, and there are many large Victorian houses with one lead pipe feeding them. You can turn on the tap in the bottom, then no water in the top. Many of these large old houses are split into flats without the water input being upgraded. I recently refurbished one and had the pipe work upgraded with 3 separate 25mm pipes straight from the main in the road. The water pressure is as good as my modern house. Often, the problem is the tiny lead pipe from the road.
My brother and I are looking into using a Salamander Pump to boost the pressure in my bathroom and hot water tap in the kitchen. The cold water tap is from the mains. Two problems - (1) I live in Central London and am worried about the dreaded limescale breaking my expensive pump. (2) Apart from the drinking water tap, everything is fed through a communal system and the heating and hot water are heated via a boiler room. In my flat, there's a room I call The Sauna because it's hot as hell in there. There are two tanks, a cold water tank with a ballcock valve and below that a hot water tank. There re two types of water in the bathroom and kitchen, The HOT and the 'KIN HOT which I'm worried will damage the pump. PS, it's a council flat.
Hi Jenny, it sounds like you would benefit from speaking to a member of our tech team who would be able to advise you on the best solution. If you would like to reach out on social media with your contact information we can arrange a call for you?
Thanks Roger, .7bar minimum? didn't it used to be 1 bar min? or is it regional Surely .7 bar is barely enough to keep many Combi boilers happy, also I hope that is dynamic pressure not static. One of my customers mains pressure drops to almost nothing with the slightest flow at the kitchen tap, she does live down a sort of private drive about 100 metres long though. The water supplier doesn't give a monkeys. ATB from J and H Builders
Roge, I converted my system to take a 250l indirect unvented when I moved in 8 years ago. I manually dug a trench and installed a 25mm MDPE pipe. All well and good except the communication pipe to my meter in the pavement was and still is, only half inch. Systems mediocre at best. With two bathrooms, I'm dropping the unvented back out the roof into the old airing cupboard and installing a new 240 tank to feed it with a pump dedicated to the x 2 showers we have. Large output combis, unvented, all great as long as you have a decent main, but even then, in my neck of the woods, SE Water will rate the pressure down so that they lose less out their aged infrastructure
Rodger i think you will find that the majority of homes in uk are mains fed hot water systems either by combis or unvented systems ,I am old enough to remember the days when you had to have 1 days supply in header tank , thankfully those days have passed but by people in the industry fighting to get the archaic water regs changed to allow the use of unvented systems and getting rid of overflow pipes on w.c installations, There's a topic you could make a good few vlogs on.
We have a new build... We have all the elements of a conventional set up but the hot water tank is unvented and pressurised which gives good pressure to the shower.. Just means it's difficult to work on if there's any issues but on the whole it's good
Unfortunately, you can not convert the positive head pump into a negative head pump. A positive head pump requires a natural flow of 1 litre in 30secs per side and 2 litres in 30 seconds mixed to activate. A negative head has a pressure vessel and pressure switch incorporated into the design which allows the pump to activate the pump automatically even when insufficient natural flow exists.
Salamander pumps here in EIRE pure SHIT , no customer after service , blame everything except themselves , Horrible Company to deal with . Stuart and Turner PROPPER COMPANY
Nice video! I was wondering if it's possible to convert a vented HW & CH system to an unvented HW, but keep CH as vented? I have a back boiler stove so need the CH to be open, but I have a well for my cold water so I've great cold water pressure. Would I be able to swap my copper cylinder to an unvented one? It means I could get rid of the cold water tank too. But I'd have to leave the expansion tank in the loft to keep the CH vented. I think it would be okay as they are seperate systems right? Technically I suppose the CH water could get to 99-100c and boil, which could then make the unvented HW get to 99c, but I dont think it would be dangerous as the water in the CH would boil off and overflow to the expansion in the attic before it could possibly raise the HW to over 100c right? Basically the HW temp is capped at 99c because the CH water is capped at 99c before boiling off. The only issue I could see is that the safety valve on the cylinder would trigger before the CH water boils off (usually at 95c right?). But I dont think that's an issue. As even if the power failed and the stove pump died, AND the valve failed, the CH water would still boil away as usual. I've spoken to a plumber friend of mine and he said it might be possible, but is very unusual. I'd be very curious of your opionion! I think this way would be ideal, as I wouldnt need to install a thermal store or anything, meaning my stove would keep heating the rads efficiently. Plus it means I dont need to install a whole-house pump. (already have the well pump) Any advice would be great thanks! Love the content!
I emailed ask skillbuilder months ago about low pressure / temp cutout on a electric shower months ago, no reply. I guess my situation couldn't be sold a magic pump. Mains fed electric shower very strong flow and pressure from taps on the same level, same feed but possibly an overly restrictive pressure regulator inline to the shower.
We get hundreds of emails a month with problems and can't answer them all. We tend to look at the ones who supply lots of photographs and helpful intormation. If you turn the shower to its coldest setting and get a good flow then your problem is not low pressure. If the flow reduces as you turn up the heat then is is either scale or a low powered shower. They are never that good and I don't fit them in hard water areas.
@SkillBuilder Totally understand that you get a lot of emails. I did send a fair amount of videos with detailed explanation knowing that's content for you guys and it gives the clearest backround. The issue is when you turn the temperature up the shower restricts the flow so much that the temperature cutout kicks in making it cold. It's more of an issue when the ground water temp is lower in winter as you need to turn the heating up higher to compensate but it cuts out due to the restriction. There is what looks to be a prv inline to the shower. My question was regarding the prv and whether / how to adjust this to increase the flow to the shower. I'm in the south west, our water is very soft, limescale isn't something we get at all. I agree these types of shower aren't very good, it's not what I would fit out of choice but it's what I have whilst funds are low.
Thinking here not a plumber don't pretend to be one. I no longer have a water tank in loft or hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard in a bedroom. Have a combi vaillant with waterfall showers X2 and all seems great.
If your pressure is crap with a combi, it’s either the pipe coming into the house or the mains in the road. If your cold water pressure is great and the hot water is crap, then your combi is underrated.
+Skill Builder Some shower pumps, like one I have here, have instructions not to use a separate tap into cylinder, but to change the classic horizontal-pipe at top of cylinder to an air-separator configuration with pipe up at 45 degree angle and then a tee down at 45 degree pipe going down to the pump. This seems to work to get rid of excess air bubbles but then seems to result in hot water siphoning off all the time, inefficiently!. I should be able to find said instructions if-asked. I have to presume, that a related configuration could work, having that "normal" horizontal pipe barely above horizontal as usual, immediately followed by the manufacturers' air-separator reccomendation. Would that work as well as adding a whole new tank connection ? Puzzle, to say the least!.
@@paulkramer2599 However; if existing HW cylinder has a side tapping already present surely that could be used for-now; won't be too long until upgrading to unvented cylinder system anyhow!. ?
@@theadamfriedlandshow4668 terrible idea, the electrical bill will be spectacular, both from the heating bill (electricity costs about 3x what gas costs per kwh) and you'll probably have to get a bigger-than-normal electrical grid connection to power a direct-heater that can instantaneously deliver 20+kw to your shower or you'll be tinkled on with lukewarm water. The whole point of a boiler is that you can spread out that power draw, instead of, say, 15 minutes of 20kw, it'd heat the boiler in 150 minutes at 2kw, using the same energy, but without the extra thick cables. It also allows for several money saving tactics, such as heating it when electricity rates are lowest at night or during peak solar, or using a heat pump to cut the electricity consumption by 2/3, and in all cases, don't need to pay monthly for an industrial power connection for the couple minutes a day you're using hot water.
What about slow filling toilet upstairs. This has suddenly become a problem. The house was built in 1950, and of course we have the tank in the roof. Is there a solution without spending a fortune? Please can you give any advice, thank you.
Are those “12 Volt inline boosters” any good? I see them in use in campervan / caravan setups, and there are a couple of commercial options. If they work, they seem like an easy win for some local pressure boosting. Curious if anybody has successfully used them.
Salamander pumps have dropped in quality, they shouldn't be priced as high as they are because the pumps have gotten worse. 10+ years age they might have been good but quality has taken a big slide downhill since then
Even ny flat has a hot water tank! 10 years old. The other flats below mine dont. They have 1 bath /shower and 1 electric shower and a combi. Mine has two bath /showers and needs a tank to enable both to be usee at the same time. Tbh id prefer more storage and a combi boiler but it is what it is.
I have been renovating my home, when we bought the place a few years ago we had to replace the boiler. At the time I opted for the cheapest and biggest combi I could afford knowing I needed it to cope with the house size growing but also I would likely rip out for a system better suited to a multibath and bigger house. I had a little obsession with making everything as simple as possible, pipework takes the shortest and most direct route possible apart from where the pipe comes out of the boiler there's only one hard 90 where it goes to a tap or bath. I am also simplifying the heating system massively and that has included 30sqm of underfloor heating. Most plumbers told me the boiler had no chance keeping up. But it turns out the obsession with how the water flows and it's restrictions means it can keep up. I can run more than one hot tap and heat the home with good balancing of both the radiators and ufh.
At the ripe old age of 53 i've never lived in a house with a water tank, i'm surprised you think they're still a thing? Boilers taking mains pressure have been common since the 70s.
At the age of 64 I've never lived in a house that did not have a loft water cistern (it's a cistern, not a tank). The cistern smoothes out any variation in inlet water pressure. It also can help when there is any maintenance on the water supply: you can still flush a toilet, until the cistern is depleted. Hence it's not clear-cut that "no cistern" is the better solution. Sometimes I think it's like the non provision of a spare tyre in a car: it is an alternative solution when a puncture occurs, but there are downsides as well. Each to their own.
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Caused by too many houses connected to a victorian mains system .
While the Victorian mains system might be a problem, it’s often the skinny lead pipe coming into the property.
What if you are running on mains pressure?
Could we have a video on whole house water softener options please?
Or even under sink options.
Great idea!
I spent a lot of time looking into pumps for my gravity system but there seemed to bit a lot of issues with sound and them wearing out top soon. My plumber suggested swapping to a pressurised system instead and its been great. I needed a new cylinder and a few pipework changes but I've now got great mains pressure on hot and cold and I've gained lots of space by removing the pipe and tank in the loft. No worries about pumps.
I ended up buying a pump express accumulator tank, 500 litre, as were getting 1 litre a minute on the main. First we had a salamander boost which helped the combi actually work, then we enquired about a new poly pipe main and they wanted 5 grand to install it. The pump and tank system cost me a grand and gives 20+ litres a minute at 3 bar. Absolutely stunning showers now and we can open numerous taps and flush toilets without any problem.
Quite a mission to install as the tank is huge and ideally must be on a concrete floor as it's half a tonne. But it went in nicely and I'm made up with the massive pressure and flow rate.
1L/min, seriously? 🤣 You must have a huge amount of land or some other complications if someone wanted £5k to put a pipe in.
Got a love for Salamander for excellent customer service after I bought the wrong pump.
Fair play, that’s decided it for me!
I simply started with removing the flow restrictor from the shower head
Top educational content. Thanks
I keep prevaricating. We have a 3 bed 1950's built mid terrace that had central heating installed about 20 years ago. It was a traditional system with a cold water tank in the loft, hot water tank in a built in cupboard in one of the bedrooms, and a Glow Worm 50 FF boiler in a cupboard on the landing. Our central heating lady says whatever we do, don't get rid of the boiler as it's bomb proof. The problem is that the shower pressure is not very good. The tank in the loft is raised up which helps, and we have a handset that is designed for low pressure systems and does help a bit.
We thought about a shower pump but am a bit concerned about noise and vibration ( before I retired I repaired electrical motors/ pumps / generators and I've stripped down a fair few domestic pumps ) been retired a decade so not sure if things have progressed much. Another possibilty that our plunber mentioned was fitting a System tank. The third option is a Heat Pump, I've followed Rogers videos over the years and he does seem to be mellowing about their use 😂 As I said, decisions, decisions...
Will not work in south Africa , no water in the pipes and no electricity for the pump 😢
What if you don't have a tank, i.e. combi boiler
Salamander do something called a homeboost. We had it in the old house. Brilliant.
I believe they have a built in pump, and that you can adjust the water pressure to your liking. I’ve had two houses with combi boilers, but not for a decade or so, so my comment is worth what you paid for it 😇
We offer a range of products for gravity fed or mains fed systems which would include combi boilers.
@SalamanderPumps We don't have water tanks and are mains fed. Great pressure, and our combi boiler feeds our hot water needs easily. Cold water is like a fireman's hose (oh matron!) Not sure we need a pump.
I live in Bristol, and there are many large Victorian houses with one lead pipe feeding them. You can turn on the tap in the bottom, then no water in the top. Many of these large old houses are split into flats without the water input being upgraded.
I recently refurbished one and had the pipe work upgraded with 3 separate 25mm pipes straight from the main in the road. The water pressure is as good as my modern house. Often, the problem is the tiny lead pipe from the road.
My brother and I are looking into using a Salamander Pump to boost the pressure in my bathroom and hot water tap in the kitchen. The cold water tap is from the mains. Two problems - (1) I live in Central London and am worried about the dreaded limescale breaking my expensive pump. (2) Apart from the drinking water tap, everything is fed through a communal system and the heating and hot water are heated via a boiler room. In my flat, there's a room I call The Sauna because it's hot as hell in there. There are two tanks, a cold water tank with a ballcock valve and below that a hot water tank. There re two types of water in the bathroom and kitchen, The HOT and the 'KIN HOT which I'm worried will damage the pump. PS, it's a council flat.
Hi Jenny, it sounds like you would benefit from speaking to a member of our tech team who would be able to advise you on the best solution. If you would like to reach out on social media with your contact information we can arrange a call for you?
Thanks Roger, .7bar minimum? didn't it used to be 1 bar min? or is it regional Surely .7 bar is barely enough to keep many Combi boilers happy, also I hope that is dynamic pressure not static. One of my customers mains pressure drops to almost nothing with the slightest flow at the kitchen tap, she does live down a sort of private drive about 100 metres long though. The water supplier doesn't give a monkeys. ATB from J and H Builders
Roge, I converted my system to take a 250l indirect unvented when I moved in 8 years ago. I manually dug a trench and installed a 25mm MDPE pipe. All well and good except the communication pipe to my meter in the pavement was and still is, only half inch. Systems mediocre at best. With two bathrooms, I'm dropping the unvented back out the roof into the old airing cupboard and installing a new 240 tank to feed it with a pump dedicated to the x 2 showers we have. Large output combis, unvented, all great as long as you have a decent main, but even then, in my neck of the woods, SE Water will rate the pressure down so that they lose less out their aged infrastructure
Rodger i think you will find that the majority of homes in uk are mains fed hot water systems either by combis or unvented systems ,I am old enough to remember the days when you had to have 1 days supply in header tank , thankfully those days have passed but by people in the industry fighting to get the archaic water regs changed to allow the use of unvented systems and getting rid of overflow pipes on w.c installations, There's a topic you could make a good few vlogs on.
Most of the houses on my estate are vented because of the generally low water pressure in the area
You mean Roger.
We have a new build... We have all the elements of a conventional set up but the hot water tank is unvented and pressurised which gives good pressure to the shower.. Just means it's difficult to work on if there's any issues but on the whole it's good
Can you convert a positive head pump to a negative head pump, by adding a small pressure vessel?
Unfortunately, you can not convert the positive head pump into a negative head pump. A positive head pump requires a natural flow of 1 litre in 30secs per side and 2 litres in 30 seconds mixed to activate. A negative head has a pressure vessel and pressure switch incorporated into the design which allows the pump to activate the pump automatically even when insufficient natural flow exists.
Salamander pumps here in EIRE pure SHIT , no customer after service , blame everything except themselves , Horrible Company to deal with .
Stuart and Turner PROPPER COMPANY
With new pipework everywhere from the mains the pressure was great
Until we fitted the water softener...
Nice video!
I was wondering if it's possible to convert a vented HW & CH system to an unvented HW, but keep CH as vented?
I have a back boiler stove so need the CH to be open, but I have a well for my cold water so I've great cold water pressure. Would I be able to swap my copper cylinder to an unvented one?
It means I could get rid of the cold water tank too.
But I'd have to leave the expansion tank in the loft to keep the CH vented.
I think it would be okay as they are seperate systems right?
Technically I suppose the CH water could get to 99-100c and boil, which could then make the unvented HW get to 99c, but I dont think it would be dangerous as the water in the CH would boil off and overflow to the expansion in the attic before it could possibly raise the HW to over 100c right? Basically the HW temp is capped at 99c because the CH water is capped at 99c before boiling off.
The only issue I could see is that the safety valve on the cylinder would trigger before the CH water boils off (usually at 95c right?).
But I dont think that's an issue. As even if the power failed and the stove pump died, AND the valve failed, the CH water would still boil away as usual.
I've spoken to a plumber friend of mine and he said it might be possible, but is very unusual. I'd be very curious of your opionion!
I think this way would be ideal, as I wouldnt need to install a thermal store or anything, meaning my stove would keep heating the rads efficiently.
Plus it means I dont need to install a whole-house pump. (already have the well pump)
Any advice would be great thanks!
Love the content!
I emailed ask skillbuilder months ago about low pressure / temp cutout on a electric shower months ago, no reply. I guess my situation couldn't be sold a magic pump. Mains fed electric shower very strong flow and pressure from taps on the same level, same feed but possibly an overly restrictive pressure regulator inline to the shower.
We get hundreds of emails a month with problems and can't answer them all.
We tend to look at the ones who supply lots of photographs and helpful intormation. If you turn the shower to its coldest setting and get a good flow then your problem is not low pressure.
If the flow reduces as you turn up the heat then is is either scale or a low powered shower. They are never that good and I don't fit them in hard water areas.
@SkillBuilder Totally understand that you get a lot of emails. I did send a fair amount of videos with detailed explanation knowing that's content for you guys and it gives the clearest backround. The issue is when you turn the temperature up the shower restricts the flow so much that the temperature cutout kicks in making it cold. It's more of an issue when the ground water temp is lower in winter as you need to turn the heating up higher to compensate but it cuts out due to the restriction. There is what looks to be a prv inline to the shower. My question was regarding the prv and whether / how to adjust this to increase the flow to the shower. I'm in the south west, our water is very soft, limescale isn't something we get at all. I agree these types of shower aren't very good, it's not what I would fit out of choice but it's what I have whilst funds are low.
What if you don't have a cylinder but combi boiler instead??
I’m no expert but I believe that is dictated by the capabilities of the boiler itself as will as the pressure/flow rate of the incoming mains.
Thinking here not a plumber don't pretend to be one. I no longer have a water tank in loft or hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard in a bedroom. Have a combi vaillant with waterfall showers X2 and all seems great.
If your pressure is crap with a combi, it’s either the pipe coming into the house or the mains in the road.
If your cold water pressure is great and the hot water is crap, then your combi is underrated.
What about if your on a combo boiler at low mains pressure?
Can't decide between accumulator in the loft or tankboost/breaktank downstairs!
+Skill Builder
Some shower pumps, like one I have here, have instructions not to use a separate tap into cylinder, but to change the classic horizontal-pipe at top of cylinder to an air-separator configuration with pipe up at 45 degree angle and then a tee down at 45 degree pipe going down to the pump. This seems to work to get rid of excess air bubbles but then seems to result in hot water siphoning off all the time, inefficiently!. I should be able to find said instructions if-asked.
I have to presume, that a related configuration could work, having that "normal" horizontal pipe barely above horizontal as usual, immediately followed by the manufacturers' air-separator reccomendation. Would that work as well as adding a whole new tank connection ?
Puzzle, to say the least!.
Surrey Flange........Simple fix!
@@paulkramer2599 However; if existing HW cylinder has a side tapping already present surely that could be used for-now; won't be too long until upgrading to unvented cylinder system anyhow!. ?
don't they have to advise that this is a paid promotion on the video or it gets taken down?
caveat emptor. take the free offered information and be grateful.
Did you once say, in older properties the water board has responsibility for the drains on your land?
Tank of water at/in the top of the house? Spells a leak problem?
Can you do more investigation into heat pumps please
ruclips.net/video/GhAKMAcmJFg/видео.html
What is an airing cupboard? Same thing as the mechanicals closet - where the HVAC gear is set up?
Typically in UK houses, the HWC is installed in a cupboard, and the rest of that cupboard is used for storage of bedlinens and towels.
@@Jablicek Yes, we have a 1950's built house with an airing cupboard built into the structure ( and small built in wardrobes in all three bedrooms. )
Get an electric shower with built in pump from Mira. No storage tank or cylinder. If you need hot water anywhere else get an instant water heater.
Terrible advice
@@strongstories3183 Negative, boiling a whole tank for hot water is folly, heating a small a mount when you use it makes sense.
What if you’re in the south with very hard water? I had a Mira once and it furred up quickly so presumably I’d need to soften the shower water…
I think when I build a house I’ll have no boiler. Electric tap, shower and underfloor electric heating
@@theadamfriedlandshow4668 terrible idea, the electrical bill will be spectacular, both from the heating bill (electricity costs about 3x what gas costs per kwh) and you'll probably have to get a bigger-than-normal electrical grid connection to power a direct-heater that can instantaneously deliver 20+kw to your shower or you'll be tinkled on with lukewarm water.
The whole point of a boiler is that you can spread out that power draw, instead of, say, 15 minutes of 20kw, it'd heat the boiler in 150 minutes at 2kw, using the same energy, but without the extra thick cables. It also allows for several money saving tactics, such as heating it when electricity rates are lowest at night or during peak solar, or using a heat pump to cut the electricity consumption by 2/3, and in all cases, don't need to pay monthly for an industrial power connection for the couple minutes a day you're using hot water.
Is it true the French do not have an issue with water pressure dropping in the morning?
What about slow filling toilet upstairs. This has suddenly become a problem. The house was built in 1950, and of course we have the tank in the roof. Is there a solution without spending a fortune? Please can you give any advice, thank you.
Could be the fill valve needs changing ( blocked) or faultly if suddenly became a problem. The fill valve could be thre ball cock or euro type.
Are those “12 Volt inline boosters” any good? I see them in use in campervan / caravan setups, and there are a couple of commercial options. If they work, they seem like an easy win for some local pressure boosting. Curious if anybody has successfully used them.
They're for caravans, that tells you all you need to know.
Salamander pumps have dropped in quality, they shouldn't be priced as high as they are because the pumps have gotten worse. 10+ years age they might have been good but quality has taken a big slide downhill since then
Pump it up 💪🏼🧱👍🏽
Never seen or heard of a cold water tank for decades. So antiquated.
Wasn't the legal requirement from the mains 3 bars before Brexit?
Yeah.......See what happens when we try to go it alone !!! 🤣🤣🤣
@@paulkramer2599 I just checked and its 1 bar, not 3 but still... that's 33% higher than the UK minimum ..
No, the problem with your pressure is locusts.
I'm in a new build with an unvented tank. What are my options?
Take a look inside the point of outlet most are now fitted with a little plastic flow regulator, simply take it out and boom 😊 much better flow.
I never fit positive pressure pump
No hot water is more often than not caused by ... teenagers.
Enlarged prostate ?
That is a low flow but the pressure might be high
People still have water tanks? Really?
Yep loads of them still about, they may be antiquated but it does give you some redundancy, if your Combi breaks down you are in a pickle.
Even ny flat has a hot water tank! 10 years old.
The other flats below mine dont. They have 1 bath /shower and 1 electric shower and a combi.
Mine has two bath /showers and needs a tank to enable both to be usee at the same time. Tbh id prefer more storage and a combi boiler but it is what it is.
I have been renovating my home, when we bought the place a few years ago we had to replace the boiler. At the time I opted for the cheapest and biggest combi I could afford knowing I needed it to cope with the house size growing but also I would likely rip out for a system better suited to a multibath and bigger house.
I had a little obsession with making everything as simple as possible, pipework takes the shortest and most direct route possible apart from where the pipe comes out of the boiler there's only one hard 90 where it goes to a tap or bath. I am also simplifying the heating system massively and that has included 30sqm of underfloor heating.
Most plumbers told me the boiler had no chance keeping up. But it turns out the obsession with how the water flows and it's restrictions means it can keep up. I can run more than one hot tap and heat the home with good balancing of both the radiators and ufh.
At the ripe old age of 53 i've never lived in a house with a water tank, i'm surprised you think they're still a thing? Boilers taking mains pressure have been common since the 70s.
At the age of 64 I've never lived in a house that did not have a loft water cistern (it's a cistern, not a tank). The cistern smoothes out any variation in inlet water pressure. It also can help when there is any maintenance on the water supply: you can still flush a toilet, until the cistern is depleted.
Hence it's not clear-cut that "no cistern" is the better solution. Sometimes I think it's like the non provision of a spare tyre in a car: it is an alternative solution when a puncture occurs, but there are downsides as well.
Each to their own.
I use a flannel . Bath once a month. This is the uk. 🙄
I just switched up my Roth IRA to 50% SCHD, 25% SCHX, 25% SCHG, and my Roth 401k is 70% vanguard S&P 500 index, 20% vanguard growth index, and 10% vanguard international index. Seeking best possible ways to grow $350k into $2m+ before retirement.
As a newbie investor, it’s essential for you to have a mentor to keep you accountable.
Kristine Lynn Weber is my trade analyst, she has guided me to identify key market trends, pinpointed strategic entry points, and provided risk assessments, ensuring my trades decisions align with market dynamics for optimal returns.
I managed to grow a nest egg of around 120k to over a Million. I'm especially grateful to Adviser Kristine Lynn Weber, for her expertise and exposure to different areas of the market.
I don't really blame people who panic. Lack of
information can be a big hurdle. I've been
making more than $200k passively by just
investing through an advisor, and I don't have
to do much work. Inflation or no inflation, my
finances remain secure. So I really don't blame
people who panic.
Without a doubt! Kristine Lynn Weber is a trader who goes above and beyond. she has an exceptional skill for analyzing market movements and spotting profitable opportunities. Her strategies are meticulously crafted based on thorough research and years of practical experience.
how would you recommend i enter the crypto market? I am also looking at studying some traders and copying their strategy rather than investing myself and losing money emotionally.. What's your take on this approach? and How can i reach her, if you don't mind me asking?
This guy doesn’t blink, kinda scary.