This is the best diff repair explained on RUclips, I broke my diff today and watched this again before disassembly, parts on order now, thank you sir for this help.
That't the reason why I parked my E-Revo for a couple of years actually. After I switched to 3s Lipo batteries, during my first run i blew a tyre away, a week later the drive shaft, which I replaced with the metal one. Then I broke axis couple of times so I mounted metal ones, like you did. And then of course, no more weak parts, so it came the time for the front diff. Changed it, new run a week later.. and after a bad jump, rear diff broke one tooth... Last time i run my E-Revo brushless.
As a beginner i followed your video for fixing my rear diff. It was not as hard as i thought or read about, but youre video really helped! You seem like a nice guy. Cheers from Sweden! :)
🤗This man is my RC Hero. He helps me with every problem I ever have on my RC E Revo.😅Cause lord knows I am kinda hard on mine so everything breaks but I replaced 90% of all the plastic with aluminium and metal pieces now so I can take on a tree (not on purpose but sometimes I don't gauge my turning radius at 65 mph very well😅) and still drive away unscathed 😁 😎👍
this video is a life saver! been having a diff issue in mine for a while now but had no idea how to determine which diff it was. thanks to you I've discovered it's the front diff. also the part number is a big help because whenever I look the diff up it just says nitro now as the v2 is out. thank you so much for the info, been a fan of your channel for a while now and these detailed reviews and tips make me keep coming back. thanks again!
This is probably the same process in the E-Revo VXL 1/16. Owned mine for exactly 1 week. As soon as I started using 2S NiHM batteries in Parallel, I stripped the plastic Servo gears (Part#2080) and later in the day on 1S, my Spur gear. The spur gear is plastic and the pinion was the one that came with the car ready to run. I took mine apart and swapped the stock pinion to the 23T pinion that is rated for the 2S battery that came with everything that is said to give me up to 50mph... Something else will break next...most likely in the transmission lol. Parts are rather cheap and easy to replace with some guidance. Your video helped prepare me for the day my Diff decides to go. Once it goes before moving into LiPo; I will know with the new parts I'll get metal to eventually have a total upgraded car 😂
Is there stronger aftermajets diffs or gear sets? Find someone who does cryogenic treatment and do both front and rear diffs, Anything metal wil ll be one so much stronger
So you know, this video is really good and really, really well done. This is one of the best how to rc video's I've seen because of how clear and accurate you are! You really should do more of these because they're going to help a lot of people of you do. There isn't enough quality rc how to video's. At least not that I can find. I think if you make more it will help your channel grow! Good job bro!
*thank you* my E-revo 2 was making that same noise and I couldn't figure out what it was. I thought it was the drive cup occasionally catching the a arm. after further inspection of the rear diff that was definitely the issue
Great video.....golf clap? Golf clap 👏👏👏👏👏. Same here , it was on revo 2.0..mine breaks enuf ive named it revo 5.0 and put rc4wd 5.0 emblems on it. Chevy guy so makes sense. But awesome info man. And just subscribed
I also prefer to use metal drive shafts. To make the diffs stronger I'm trying different bearings for the diff pinion as I'm afraid the stock one can wear out fairly quickly as they are pretty small for all the force going on them. I'm trying ceramic bearings, for now they hold up. I also changed the diff external case as after three years it was a bit worn :) The ERevo is a great car, I love it. Enjoy!
i've heard the slipper clutch can be problematic sometimes if the car is run through water, found out mine was bound and wasn't adjusted properly, meaning the rear diff probably dealt with a lot of overtorque on launch.
Really awesome video, and super helpful. Only thing is that it's ok to spray NORMAL wd40 on your bearings as it's a lubricant. There is a wd40 specialist degreaser that you can get, however it's fine to spray standard wd40 on your bearings.
I stopped playing with my Revo years ago because I couldn't keep diffs in it. They would go to shit after just a few minutes or seconds of running. After replacing them for the 25th time only to have the brand new diff strip within 20 seconds, I packed the Revo away. That was like 4 years ago. Now the V2 Revo finally has properly sized diffs, but it isn't an inexpensive process to convert.
Joey Bishop hence why I’m thinking of going Arrma krayton new EXB!!! Don’t get me wrong, I love my erevo 1.0, but man it’s a process to get to the diffs! I’m not sure they could have made a worse design in terms of maintainability. Great video btw, but I guess I would have cleaned all the muck off as I took it all apart, but that’s just me being anal. Lol
I have two 5608 erevo...yeah im very versed in difs. make sure you sim that diff. the machined gear might be better but for 40 bucks im not ready yet. my daughter runs 4s i run 6s on mine. the boy runs 8s on his xmaxx...busy busy..
I would upgrade the diff carrier and outer casing to metal because plastic flexes to much under all of the torque. I just blew out a ball bearing which destroyed all of the gears.
Awesome video! Rebuilding mine right now. Long live the v1!! Weird the 5329x kit came with something called a “diff retainer”. Did you use that at all? I did not and no idea where it goes!!!
Duidelijke video, deze auto is exact zelfde als onze auto. 5379x is dat zelfde als TRX-8679? Ik kan geen exploded tekening vinden van de V1 en heb 8679 uit de e revo 2.0 vxl exploded tekening.
@@agoogleuser9237 Funny story I run my E Revo 2.0 on 6s since day one and guess what no issues with the diffs and hella faster than the Kraton and Outcast. Guess who is happier me or Traxxas? I can tell you who isn't happy that would be those Kraton and Outcast folk my E Revo 2 eats those for breakfast.
Just got mine 2 days ago, first day the slipper was so loose i destroyed it and melted the spur gear. Luckily i had a rebuild kit from my revo parts lot i bought. Now today i took it out and it killed the pinion bearing 😒time to rebuild
@@outsourcedrc yeah this time im shimming the pinion and upgrading the bearings to ceramic caged ones. Theyre rated for 35 ftlbs of constant radial stress as well so that should be a nicr upgrade.
Thank you so much for the video! I'm new to RC cars and bought a used one with this problem. Your video helped a ton. I found a differential gear on Amazon that was made of machined steel rather than whatever the stock one is (maybe cast iron?). It's more expensive, so I hope it doesn't break on me or lasts longer. Do you know if machined steel is better for this component rather than the stock part?
I'm not sure. I would guess it is. I honestly think the V1 E Revo just doesnt have the drive train for bashing and doing stunts. Remember, this RC originally was designed with two 550 brushed motors in mind. The E Revo 2.0 is so much better.
Update on the new differential. It has broken on me about every month for a total of 3 times. I only drive like once or twice a week. These things just aren't meant to last. I have not shimmed the diffs, however I believe the problem will persist. If you are having this issue, I suggest you get a new car 😂
my rustler had tons of drag so I had to fix it or else the motor would overheat… Then something told me to just run it again and all the drag was gone...most of it anyway...do you have any idea of what happened?
well noo room fer much grease on that main gear heck this china rig SCT has a square box around gear it has a smear of nasty grease i crammed it half full with some hopefully its will stay lube-dd
Out of the 4 witch would you choose Traxxas rustler 4x4 Traxxas E-Revo 1/16 scale or arrma big rock or arrma granite I'm on the fence about which one to buy today an keep in mind I'm not going to be easy on the one I pick either. When in doubt throttle out.
@@christhompsonphotography6783 thats a good idea i bought a hardened steele helical rear diff made by hot racing it seems to work very good, other reviewes said they didn't have problems with it
@@marc_frank After investigating, my slipper clutch was seized, bearing was dead, and the slipper plate was rusted together = no slip, so I fixed that and modified the spring to bearing pressure with a small washer so the spring doesn't sit on the bearing seal. This should solve a bunch of my rear diff breakage.
Your chasing your tail. Their is a design flaw in the pinion bearing! The pinion creates a lot of Axial load on the bearing, the style of bearing traxxas used is for Radial load so the ring and pinion stripping is actually a secondary effect of the pinion bearing slowly dying causing your clearance between the 2 to open up and here you have it.
So what's the fix? Because my V1 has had this issue since day one. No matter what part I put in it same results. Was going to purchase a V2 because "they" said the differential problem was solved. Seems that is not the case by these comments. Thx!
Hello Outsourced ! Happy to join you channel ! I have a ERBE, and been watching videos of the V2.0, and I have Question for you : do you feel the old ERBE was a better balanced RC than the V2.0 ? Cause watching many videos, it often looks like V2.0 is out of balance and much less agile than the ERBE. What is your comparison/appreciation of both RC ? Thank you for your time doing all those Vids. Take care.
While the V1 is quicker and lighter, the 2.0 handles better and controls better, at least in my opinion. Every time I run my V1 now it feels lacking compared to the 2.0.
@@outsourcedrc Hello! Thx for sharing your great experience! My friend says he doesn't recommend V2 since it is not more reliable, but parts cost more, especially the diffs, especially in Moscow:). I bought a used V1 also to lower the RC hobby entrance threshold and didn't see any used 2.0 for sale. Now they appeared, not to say popped out in big quantities - but I doubt if it is really worth a change since my car has not seen a ramp yet:) I wonder why you didn't clean the diff: the oil must have the metal powder in it, polishing the parts. Is it an insignificant problem if compared to shocks the transmission has to face during bashing?
You still have the disassemble the whole rear end I don't like that sorry I did one before and it was horrible way too much work for a differential wow no more revo's for me
This is the best diff repair explained on RUclips, I broke my diff today and watched this again before disassembly, parts on order now, thank you sir for this help.
Oh my god I've owned my e revo 4 years and never knew about sliding the diff out through the two slots thanks for the tip lol MY old man brain
Its ok. We are all learning new things all the time.
I will give you a pro tip about e-revo v1 diff. You can harden these gears so they wont strip again :)
Szymon how pls diffs are giving me aids!!!
That't the reason why I parked my E-Revo for a couple of years actually. After I switched to 3s Lipo batteries, during my first run i blew a tyre away, a week later the drive shaft, which I replaced with the metal one. Then I broke axis couple of times so I mounted metal ones, like you did. And then of course, no more weak parts, so it came the time for the front diff. Changed it, new run a week later.. and after a bad jump, rear diff broke one tooth... Last time i run my E-Revo brushless.
As a beginner i followed your video for fixing my rear diff. It was not as hard as i thought or read about, but youre video really helped! You seem like a nice guy. Cheers from Sweden! :)
This video was a godsend for me. Tried doing it on my own first a few months ago and gave up trying to figure it out. This video was done very well
🤗This man is my RC Hero. He helps me with every problem I ever have on my RC E Revo.😅Cause lord knows I am kinda hard on mine so everything breaks but I replaced 90% of all the plastic with aluminium and metal pieces now so I can take on a tree (not on purpose but sometimes I don't gauge my turning radius at 65 mph very well😅) and still drive away unscathed 😁 😎👍
This is funny. I’ve watched tons of your videos bashing and reviewing. Now I’m fixing mine watching you 😂😂😂🏆🏆🏆👍
lol awesome thanks!
This is golden! My son just wrecked his rear diff running big Joe's on 6s with a mamba monster... I have plenty of extra summit axles too lol
Hi, nice and clear tutorial how to fix a diff. Good Job!
Thanks!
this video is a life saver! been having a diff issue in mine for a while now but had no idea how to determine which diff it was. thanks to you I've discovered it's the front diff. also the part number is a big help because whenever I look the diff up it just says nitro now as the v2 is out. thank you so much for the info, been a fan of your channel for a while now and these detailed reviews and tips make me keep coming back. thanks again!
This is probably the same process in the E-Revo VXL 1/16. Owned mine for exactly 1 week. As soon as I started using 2S NiHM batteries in Parallel, I stripped the plastic Servo gears (Part#2080) and later in the day on 1S, my Spur gear. The spur gear is plastic and the pinion was the one that came with the car ready to run.
I took mine apart and swapped the stock pinion to the 23T pinion that is rated for the 2S battery that came with everything that is said to give me up to 50mph...
Something else will break next...most likely in the transmission lol. Parts are rather cheap and easy to replace with some guidance.
Your video helped prepare me for the day my Diff decides to go. Once it goes before moving into LiPo; I will know with the new parts I'll get metal to eventually have a total upgraded car 😂
Damn , can you get metal gears for them? I was going to buy a 1/16th erevo
Is there stronger aftermajets diffs or gear sets?
Find someone who does cryogenic treatment and do both front and rear diffs, Anything metal wil ll be one so much stronger
So you know, this video is really good and really, really well done. This is one of the best how to rc video's I've seen because of how clear and accurate you are! You really should do more of these because they're going to help a lot of people of you do. There isn't enough quality rc how to video's. At least not that I can find. I think if you make more it will help your channel grow! Good job bro!
Thanks. I actually had to film this one twice.
*thank you*
my E-revo 2 was making that same noise and I couldn't figure out what it was. I thought it was the drive cup occasionally catching the a arm.
after further inspection of the rear diff that was definitely the issue
You’re a legend for recording this - thanks !
Great video.....golf clap? Golf clap 👏👏👏👏👏. Same here , it was on revo 2.0..mine breaks enuf ive named it revo 5.0 and put rc4wd 5.0 emblems on it. Chevy guy so makes sense. But awesome info man. And just subscribed
Thanks for the video. Big help on doing this the first time.
Thank you!!! You helped me thru changing my car’s diff!! God Bless!!
Glad I could help!
Thanks helped with annoying clicking and no drive in back wheels
I also prefer to use metal drive shafts. To make the diffs stronger I'm trying different bearings for the diff pinion as I'm afraid the stock one can wear out fairly quickly as they are pretty small for all the force going on them. I'm trying ceramic bearings, for now they hold up. I also changed the diff external case as after three years it was a bit worn :)
The ERevo is a great car, I love it. Enjoy!
i've heard the slipper clutch can be problematic sometimes if the car is run through water, found out mine was bound and wasn't adjusted properly, meaning the rear diff probably dealt with a lot of overtorque on launch.
Nice build build video my friend, learnt alot, thanks for sharing 👍😊👍
No problem! and Thanks!
Wd-40 is a water displacement , that's what the WD stands for.
Your video helped me a lot. Great video. Thank you! 👏 RC for life!
I'm glad it helped. You are welcome!
Excellent video thanks a bunch
Really awesome video, and super helpful. Only thing is that it's ok to spray NORMAL wd40 on your bearings as it's a lubricant. There is a wd40 specialist degreaser that you can get, however it's fine to spray standard wd40 on your bearings.
Well done!!
Thanks!
I stopped playing with my Revo years ago because I couldn't keep diffs in it. They would go to shit after just a few minutes or seconds of running. After replacing them for the 25th time only to have the brand new diff strip within 20 seconds, I packed the Revo away.
That was like 4 years ago.
Now the V2 Revo finally has properly sized diffs, but it isn't an inexpensive process to convert.
For the Arrma Kraton 8S, it takes less than 2 minutes to get the diff apart.
Joey Bishop hence why I’m thinking of going Arrma krayton new EXB!!! Don’t get me wrong, I love my erevo 1.0, but man it’s a process to get to the diffs! I’m not sure they could have made a worse design in terms of maintainability.
Great video btw, but I guess I would have cleaned all the muck off as I took it all apart, but that’s just me being anal. Lol
I have two 5608 erevo...yeah im very versed in difs. make sure you sim that diff. the machined gear might be better but for 40 bucks im not ready yet. my daughter runs 4s i run 6s on mine. the boy runs 8s on his xmaxx...busy busy..
THANKS so much man you do a good job!
Thanks! I try. This video actually took a ton of time to make. I even had to reshoot half of it because the original footage was bad.
Wow bro mine just broke like last week. THX.
No problem!
I would upgrade the diff carrier and outer casing to metal because plastic flexes to much under all of the torque. I just blew out a ball bearing which destroyed all of the gears.
Awesome video! Rebuilding mine right now. Long live the v1!! Weird the 5329x kit came with something called a “diff retainer”. Did you use that at all? I did not and no idea where it goes!!!
helped me out good video
I would be crying if my rc needs a repair like this😥 I'm lost.
Just take your time, and take pictures of EVERYTHING. Keep all your screws and parts organized. You can do it!
Good info thx for sharing
Duidelijke video, deze auto is exact zelfde als onze auto. 5379x is dat zelfde als TRX-8679? Ik kan geen exploded tekening vinden van de V1 en heb 8679 uit de e revo 2.0 vxl exploded tekening.
On the gear that fits into the case, some guys will use a shim washer so they mesh just a little more but not too much. And the gear will last longer.
Yeah I have tried that once. I didnt notice a change really. This is only like the 3rd time I have had to change it.
@@outsourcedrc are you runinnig on 6s?
@@melihsaglam8572 Yes.
Half the problem right there, 6S slowly destroys it.... Traxxas happy ☺
@@agoogleuser9237 Funny story I run my E Revo 2.0 on 6s since day one and guess what no issues with the diffs and hella faster than the Kraton and Outcast. Guess who is happier me or Traxxas? I can tell you who isn't happy that would be those Kraton and Outcast folk my E Revo 2 eats those for breakfast.
Thanks mate it's useful
awesome video thank you!!
Welcome!
Just got mine 2 days ago, first day the slipper was so loose i destroyed it and melted the spur gear. Luckily i had a rebuild kit from my revo parts lot i bought. Now today i took it out and it killed the pinion bearing 😒time to rebuild
yeah I kinda think the V1 E Revo has too much power for its drive train.
@@outsourcedrc yeah this time im shimming the pinion and upgrading the bearings to ceramic caged ones. Theyre rated for 35 ftlbs of constant radial stress as well so that should be a nicr upgrade.
Thank you so much for the video! I'm new to RC cars and bought a used one with this problem. Your video helped a ton. I found a differential gear on Amazon that was made of machined steel rather than whatever the stock one is (maybe cast iron?). It's more expensive, so I hope it doesn't break on me or lasts longer. Do you know if machined steel is better for this component rather than the stock part?
I'm not sure. I would guess it is. I honestly think the V1 E Revo just doesnt have the drive train for bashing and doing stunts. Remember, this RC originally was designed with two 550 brushed motors in mind. The E Revo 2.0 is so much better.
Update on the new differential. It has broken on me about every month for a total of 3 times. I only drive like once or twice a week. These things just aren't meant to last. I have not shimmed the diffs, however I believe the problem will persist. If you are having this issue, I suggest you get a new car 😂
What do I do if the bearing inside exploded and the outer ring of the bearing will not come out
I use the blue lock tight stick so I don't drip any where it don't need to be
my rustler had tons of drag so I had to fix it or else the motor would overheat… Then something told me to just run it again and all the drag was gone...most of it anyway...do you have any idea of what happened?
Cari Sundeen was it the two wheel drive one because I have a two wheel drive on and sprayed a bit dw40 on it and left it for a bit and it was good
I have no idea with out seeing it. And dont WD40 your bearings. It takes the grease off.
Travis Thorburn no it was the new rustler 4x4 vxl😁
Thank you
You are welcome!
well noo room fer much grease on that main gear heck this china rig SCT has a square box around gear it has a smear of nasty grease i crammed it half full with some hopefully its will stay lube-dd
Hallo from sweden
Where have you got your protection for the traxxas vxl 6s
Benny
Hey. I don't understand what you mean.
Comes right on out 30 hours later LOL no way
Out of the 4 witch would you choose Traxxas rustler 4x4 Traxxas E-Revo 1/16 scale or arrma big rock or arrma granite I'm on the fence about which one to buy today an keep in mind I'm not going to be easy on the one I pick either. When in doubt throttle out.
The Rustler 4x4. Easily the best of that group.
Rustler 4x4 vxl is super reliable
My dad has the 2.0... he needs
To change his diffs
My 2.0 has had no diff issues so far
i did this to the mini e revo, but it broke very soon after again
didn't shim anything
Marc Frank Same, I'm going to add a center diff and shims. Hoping it will eliminate diff breakage.
@@christhompsonphotography6783 thats a good idea
i bought a hardened steele helical rear diff made by hot racing
it seems to work very good, other reviewes said they didn't have problems with it
@@marc_frank After investigating, my slipper clutch was seized, bearing was dead, and the slipper plate was rusted together = no slip, so I fixed that and modified the spring to bearing pressure with a small washer so the spring doesn't sit on the bearing seal. This should solve a bunch of my rear diff breakage.
👏👏👏👏
I don't own a revo, but that thing looks like a pain to work on.
It is
hi is the same front and rear differential? thank you
are u running 6s?
I have v1 obviously. And is there. Stronger diff than stock?
I've seen people change it over to a 2.0 dif. I'm not sure how, but I have seen it done.
Great videos brother... but one question... in the manual it says 5379R/5379X whats the different between them man?
I think the R is better cause it’s more expensive
is this the 1/16 scale e revo?
No. This is the full size one.
Do you know the part number for the steel driveshafts front & rear and center?
Just search up gpm erevo v1 driveshafts
What diff oil weight you use? Great video!
I leave the Diff fluid stock in my E Revo. Its 30k stock.
Your chasing your tail. Their is a design flaw in the pinion bearing! The pinion creates a lot of Axial load on the bearing, the style of bearing traxxas used is for Radial load so the ring and pinion stripping is actually a secondary effect of the pinion bearing slowly dying causing your clearance between the 2 to open up and here you have it.
So what's the fix? Because my V1 has had this issue since day one. No matter what part I put in it same results. Was going to purchase a V2 because "they" said the differential problem was solved. Seems that is not the case by these comments. Thx!
Do you have a or know of a video like this for the front?
I do not. I havent had to take the front apart.
It's called a drive shaft pin
Nice vid bro!! SUbbed to ya!
what weight diff fluid do you use?
I forget exactly, but I know its not super thick.
You don’t have snow yet!!!!!!
Not here in Georgia! We might get it one day a year.
Hello Outsourced ! Happy to join you channel ! I have a ERBE, and been watching videos of the V2.0, and I have Question for you : do you feel the old ERBE was a better balanced RC than the V2.0 ? Cause watching many videos, it often looks like V2.0 is out of balance and much less agile than the ERBE. What is your comparison/appreciation of both RC ? Thank you for your time doing all those Vids. Take care.
While the V1 is quicker and lighter, the 2.0 handles better and controls better, at least in my opinion. Every time I run my V1 now it feels lacking compared to the 2.0.
@@outsourcedrc Hello! Thx for sharing your great experience!
My friend says he doesn't recommend V2 since it is not more reliable, but parts cost more, especially the diffs, especially in Moscow:). I bought a used V1 also to lower the RC hobby entrance threshold and didn't see any used 2.0 for sale. Now they appeared, not to say popped out in big quantities - but I doubt if it is really worth a change since my car has not seen a ramp yet:)
I wonder why you didn't clean the diff: the oil must have the metal powder in it, polishing the parts. Is it an insignificant problem if compared to shocks the transmission has to face during bashing?
@@7vvee I did clean the diff. That was the second time I filmed the video. The first recording was bad so I had to redo it.
@@outsourcedrc Ok! Front diff video would be very much appreciated :) I couldn't find it for V1 at least
the car sounds wierd...something is squeaky in there ;o]
Get a pin for the MIP drive shafts then you won't have them stupid grub screws why don't they have thread lock on them
Part number?
I prefer axles....its easier to repair.
Shim that diff and you'll almost never have to change them again on stock power system
Where'd u order the diffs
my LHS carries them
@@outsourcedrc thanks brotha. I just bought one second hand for $230 without batteries and I'm hoping it was a great buy.
@@chansone559 It depends. Thats a decent price for a V1 E Revo.
I have a 2.0 i cant get the cups off
There is a set screw in them.
Oh on thanks
All that just for a diff change.nooo way. Thats bull
It's a bit easier with the new 2.0
You still have the disassemble the whole rear end I don't like that sorry I did one before and it was horrible way too much work for a differential wow no more revo's for me
Your gear mesh is way too tight.
loosen your slipper clutch lmao
First
Zero lube
speak up ? why is the volume so so low ????
I'm not sure. It sounds fine on my end.
What weight diff fluid did U used in a E revo brushless v1?
I don't remember, but I put stock fluid back into it. I'm pretty sure it was 50k, but I may be wrong.