How to Replace a Leaking Pressure Relief Valve on Well Water
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2024
- How to replace or install leaking or broken well water pressure relief valve.
If you have a leaking pressure relief valve on you well you should find this video useful. 
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Well looka here, It's-my-cousin-from-Boston, helping me with a simple straightforward video on changing a pressure relief valve. Exactly what I needed. Helped me a lot. Thanks!
Wow - thanks for this video, my pressure relief valve was leaking (well, or so I thought) and a quote from a plumber was absurd so I followed your video and successfully replaced it. Actually I'm glad I did because I think I narrowly avoided disaster - I'll tell you why and a few things that I learned:
1) If you have buildup or oxidation on the outside of the pipes around the threads use a paste made of vinegar and baking soda to clean it. I put an aluminum pan under it and used a paintbrush to apply the mixture. Let it sit for 10 minutes then rinse with the vinegar and wipe with a dry cloth.
2) When draining the tank (with the power to the well pump off) run a few faucets and toilets in the house until the pressure gets low, say 20 PSI and THEN turn off the main to the house. This can save you a lot of schlepping buckets of water to outside the house (in case you don't have a sump pump or a way to run a drain hose).
3) If your pressure gauge is old or looking worse for the wear you might as well change it while you have the system down - its cheap enough. (Mine was 15 years old, corroded; I didn't realize at first that it was not working and locked on 55 PSI and about to spring a leak).
4) Here's the big "ah-ha" moment - I originally _thought_ my relief valve was leaking but in hindsight it was actually doing its job. What I found was that the small vertical copper pipe that connects to the pressure sensor pump relay was clogged (minerals, gunk) at the bottom, almost completely. It was down to a pinhole opening! So when the well pump ran and pressurized the tank the switch was very slow to detect the high pressure limit, with the pump blowing past the 60 PSI mark to the 73-74 PSI mark! (Remember the relief valve is 75 PSI). I was probably only days or weeks away from it being clogged completely, which would have resulted in the well pump running continuously with water pouring out of the relief valve. I used a stainless metal tie wrap (a long drill bit would have worked also) to clean out that copper pipe and flushed it out the spigot. To me this was the most important and critical learning.
5) Lastly, one more thing to do while the system is drained and down - the pressure tank has a bladder in it that, WHEN DRAINED, should be pressurized to (in my case) 1-3 PSI _below_ the turn-on pressure. So for example if you are using a standard 40-60 PSI range setting, the pressure in the tank should be 37-39 PSI (WHEN DRAINED!). There is a valve stem on the tank just like a bicycle tire, and you can use a standard auto pressure gauge to measure it (WHEN DRAINED!). I don't know what it was set to at installation (I'm not the original owner) but my tank was set to 30 PSI. I used an electric air compressor to get it back up to 38 (WHEN DRAINED!). (Be careful not to OVER-pressurize it, you may damage it). This pressure is an important part of the entire system and was even mentioned on the label of the pressure switch.
After all this I buttoned up my system, turned the power on and it cycled perfectly between 38 PSI - 60 PSI!
Thinking about #4 above and the fact I could have been traveling on business and had my pump filling my basement with water for days until it burned out because of a simple clogged pipe got me thinking. Something to consider is a wifi-connected smart valve that can detect water leaks, alert you on your phone that there is a leak and even allow you to remotely from anywhere shut the water main where it enters the house. This might be my next project.
Really great info and all good points. These inexpensive parts can really avert disaster if left unchecked. This info will be very helpful for people. Thank you
Many thanks to you for this comment that saved me from unnecessarily replacing the pressure relief valve, because I too had a problem with mineral deposits in the pipe leading to the pressure switch. Thus, my pressure relief valve was working appropriately.
The clue that something was wrong with that pipe was that the shower cut out for a minute (probably when the relief valve dumped out a bunch of water on my floor) and then came back on. The pressure was markedly elevated at 85.
This other video - ruclips.net/video/ZoEfIQB1vbg/видео.html - was quite helpful explaining the situation which was resolved with coring out that pipe with a Philips screwdriver after removing the pressure switch. Now the pressure sits at 50.
Straightforward, easy to comprehend. Thank you, kindly!
Great video. I really appreciate guys like you that take the time to make a quality video full of very helpful info. 👍🏼
This 63 year old woman did it, thanks for the video! The only part I cried on was trying to get the hose on, I had to use a wrench.
Is is the same procedure to replace the valve for the hose, I don't want to wrestle with that again. (And thanks for the advice to get both sizes, because ofcourse mine was the 1/2" size).
Your video just keeps on giving. Success! Thank you for taking time to thoroughly explain this repair.
Wicked great video. Thanks. Glad to see you flush the system a bit immediately after replacing the relief valve. I've seen new pressure relief valves "fail" early because they are not able to close completely due to getting a piece of crap in them after relieving pressure.
Very helpful. Ours isnt leaking, but Im wanting to change the whole T and electrical pump out. We've been in our house for 16 years now, so I think its about time. Thank you!
Thanks. Very clear and thorough. Mine froze and is flowing freely once it thawed so will change it out tomorrow morning. Thank God for RUclips and people like you. This saves me a plumber bill and going without water till he comes.
My pleasure. My replacement valve came from Lowes and I had very good luck with it as shown.. I would appreciate if you have't already if you could click *Thumbs Up* on this video and also *Subscribe* to my channel. Best wishes to you.
Great video. I’m glad I took your advice and bought both sizes because I thought I it was 3/4 but it wasn’t. While it was drained I changed broken pressure gauge also. Thanks.
Glad the video helped and thank you for watching. Best wishes.
Thanks! Have the same kind of set up and your explanation was simple and clear to follow. BTW, had to replace this valve only a year or so ago and already failed so looks like they aren't making these valves very well.
simple and informative just the way it should be.
Thanks for this video. It was a great help. Worked like a charm.
Thanks for this informational video. I followed your steps for our valve, which is located outside the home, about 20ft from the hot water heater in the garage (city water). Everything went smoothly and now I have a non-dripping valve. :-)
Thats awesome. Glad it all worked out and the video was helpful. Please thumbs up and subscribe also if you haven't already, it's always appreciated. Best wishes
Exactly what I needed thanks!
Thanks a lot my friend. We appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
Great video my man. Keep up the good work!
Your video was awesome thank you I was able to change mine of course the part now adays is 25 for 1/2 35 for 3/4 its crazy
Hey great video thanks. this saved me from calling someone in to fix it.
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching.
I know this is several years old but thank you tons for this !
Thanks for a great and informative video..
Great explanation! Subscribed!
Bro this video saved me today! Good looking out!
Glad I could help
Should I worry about the brass to steel with the pressure tank? And is it worth venting the relief valve just in case it pops to the exterior?
Excellent video! My well pressure relief valve just started leaking ~ one cup per day (it's 19 years old). I noticed it's a 75 psi valve and my pressure gauge shows 80 psi actual pressure. So is the pressure relief valve simply doing its job (since pressure > 75 psi)? However, it's strange that it never leaked before despite the actual pressure exceeding 75 psi. I'm just wondering if I should simply turn down the water pressure first before replacing the valve. Thank you!
You use the same process if you want to replace were you connect the hose ?
I have a system that looks very much like this, but my well feeds in on the rt side and the 1/4 shut off valve is on the left side of the meter (gauge). Water feeds out to the softener and neutralizer on the left. I was about to replace the same relief valve shown here, but noticed my 40/60 meter as it climbed to 75-80. I ran a faucet and it dropped below 60.
Do I have a bad meter or a bad valve... or better just to replace both? I know anything can go at anytime, but they're only about a year or so old and installed by the same crew who's done well here for a decade.
Thanks
Kniplex? Nice!
You know your tools!!!
Would it be OK to use a fitting and connect a hose to the relief valve outlet and put the hose outlet in an appropriate drian? Of couse you could not detect the valve dripping unless you used a clear hose and checked it occasionally.
Do you have a check valve between your wall tank and well? I would not have one there if you have a submersible pump. The check valve should be on the well pump. A check valve can result is air in the well line if there is a leak. This can result is air being pumped into the home.
Th hanks for your video. When putting the check valve and other connections together do you apply the plumber solvent to those threads also. ? I’m getting ready to attempt changing out my fittings with new brass. Thanks. And if I wanted to put a regular hose fitting where would you recommend it be placed? Before. Or after the check valve
Yes for all screw in fittings you will always want to use a thread sealant/ pipe dope. I am not a huge fan of tape since you can do it wrong. One tin of this works great and it's safe for all types of plumbing and drinking water approved: amzn.to/371Jy9E
Silver Cymbal I appreciate your quick response.
Also, my shut off switch is mounted to the jet pump so I can’t use the brass T like you have. I like your set up but I have to figure out how to connect to the pressure tank. PVC???
My system is leaking right before the check valve only when the well pump is running. Do I need to do anything special when I replace the pipe and fitting before I turn back on the pump. Do I need to prime etc?
My tank seems to be losing charge. It seems to work properly and fill the tank at first, but now the pump is kicking on and off as soon as you use any water in the house.
Mine is set up the same however my in feed from the well is on the right where your out to the house feed is with the guage and valves set up the same as yours. Every 15 minutes or so it started releasing itself for a minute or so. No idea what's going on.
Great video, knipex is good shit! You could have removed the the green handle from the ball valve, would have made things a little easier.
My pressure relief valve is located on the well pump not the T manifold.
Is that right?
Mine is outside. Just bought the part from Lowes whoch is now up to $35 bucks in just 6 yrs. And they keep keaking. I just bought one and reolaced kast month. Any idea why it keeps leaking?
What if the pipes are sweaty from the line of the house to the pump?
I just moved to a well system out in the country. What if my system doesn’t have a drain valve only a shut off valve to the house and I need to cut the pvc to replace the pressure tank?!! I guess I’ll just take a nice shower today! I’m going to make sure I have a valve when it goes back together!
I changed my pressure gauge, pressure switch and pressure tank today, I noticed when my switch hits it’s upper limit 60psi It shuts off but notice the gauge slowly drops back towards 40 psi, what would cause that? Would it be the check valve at the tank or the one at the pump?
Sounds like it could be the check valve, but to be 100% sure I would also make sure you close the water valve to the house, to be 100% sure it's not something using water. If it's not you will want to try the checkvalvle. They are cheap but I know it's a bit of a pain but it sounds like you did everything else.
Go! Pats
Yes sir!
Hey were can I get that same part that u replaced mines leaking a bit too
This is the one I used: amzn.to/30QBZPh
Mine new replacement still leaks a little bit
Why would this valve leak with tremendous force if the well has not been used for months
You must put you Camara closeser that we can sea thanks you
There is a nipple on my well and I do not know the name of it to replace it.
Sure you covered everything enough? Maybe 2 if three more times should do it. Ugh
Thanks man 👍