I am about to replace my tank, and your video make my life so much easier.....and....I don't have to pay an arm and a leg to a well service. Thanks a million!
That was SUPER helpful. The well guy wanted $10,000 to install this himself. Not kidding. After watching this I think I'm going to give it a shot myself.
Damn, 10k should be the price for digging and installing a whole well system from scratch... How did your project come out? I'm about to get in my crawl space this weekend and get busy
A lot of good, accurate information here. I had well water for over 35 years, so I am familiar with this tank change over. Now in my retirement years, we have city water in this new home. Expensive, but trouble free. In retirement trouble free is a good.
Great Video...I thought I bought everything I needed after watching a few videos. I then watched your video and realized some of the things I bought I didn't need and I need to replace some of them with other things that I did not buy. Thanks so much for your video and time...
Thanks for the video. I so appreciate the folks like you that document and share your knowledge with the rest of us DIYers on these type of projects. I am also about to take on this endeavor with a 35 gallon tank that actually rusted through an 1/8" hole in side and is slowly leaking. Unfortunately, my pressure tank is located in a closet in laundry room that also houses the water heat and the furnace. The current water heater is wedged in their tight so I will need to remove both water and gas pipes to get it out. I'm replacing it with a WaterWorks tank that is 5" slimmer but taller than the current tank at the same 32 gal. capacity. That should make replacement in the future much easier. With so many brands of water pressure tanks, how has the WaterWorks brand worked for you? They are definitely some of the most affordable tanks.
I was wondering the same thing about longevity of the Water Worker tanks. They are made by Amtrol, the same company that makes the Well Xtrol tanks.(Like the one he was replacing.)
Great video and so appreciated! I just finished the job, thanks to you! One note, that brass cross pipe was nearly double what you guessed and may have been less had I shopped around.
Absolutely excellent, RUclips. Thank you very much. I do have a lazy man’s question, is there a parts list for this, RUclips. My Home Depot really does not have any helpful people and it would be great to have an itemized list. Thank you very much.
Great video! Clear concise info and great nuggets that I would have likely gotten wrong... specifically the tank pressure being 2 LBS below the low pressure regulator limit... Thank you and keep up the good work.
Hi, thanks for ur video. Didnt hear you say much about exactly how tight to tighten everything. Any advice on tightening the T and everytjing else? Thanku.
I'm not real sure. Most filter systems I've seen have been placed between the well house and the house. Some are inside the main house. If room permitted, I don't see why you couldn't filter before the tank too.
Hello your video was real helpful I apriciated, but I still have a question. My question is do I need the same size tank or I can get a bigger tank? Also do you think the regulator went bad stead of the tank? Thanks
You can always go bigger with the tank. A larger tank will reduce the time between pump cycles which will extend pump life. Also that wasn’t a “regulator” it was a pressure switch. As long as the switch cuts on at the cut in pressure (30 psi in his case) and cuts off at the proper cut off pressure (50psi in his case) and there is no voltage drop through the switch then it is working properly.
Question, if you're using an existing tank and upgrading everything else, should you bleed the air out of the tank before installation? I know you have to bleed the water but I wasn't sure how that worked?
Not a bad video but I would recommend a T-connector that have a union for easy tank replacement, once that PVC inlet and outlet slips are glued on they will have to be cut away to work on the tank.
Getting ready to replace my outside tank as well as pump,,rightnow we have little pressure until switch cuts in,,tried adjusting it but i think between tank being 25 years old and old switch a new set up will fix issue,,right now as soon as i cut on faucet pump clicks on for maybe 20 seconds and then shuts off until about 3 minutes later,,this causes a lag time in house waiting on shower or bath to have proper pressure..
What's the thought process when deciding on a 30/50 vs 40/60 pressure switch? I know both are common, but I'm not sure when one would be preferred over the other. Or the advantage/disadvantage of one over the other. For example, if my house currently has a 30/50 switch, could I change to a 40/60 switch? (I realize I would have to adjust the tank pressure). Would this provide improved water pressure? Would there be a reason I wouldn't want to do that? Thanks to anyone in advance!
it's a matter of preference, really. If you have older pipes, realize that it is a higher pressure. but overall, a properly maintained system should be perfectly fine to handle the upgrade, just make sure you adjust the tank pressure to the appropriate PSI.
there are shallow well pump where the pressure switch is attached directly to the pump. Is that OK? or should I move the pressure switch closer to the pressure tank?
@@stevee7774 Why? I've been considering working in a bypass between the pump and the final water output so I could take the tank part out of the system if needed. Why is it a bad idea to put a cutoff there?
@@jasoncy31 - I’m not sure exactly what you’re trying to do but some people mistakenly think they should have a cutoff valve before the pressure tank which means it will be between the pump and the pressure switch. In this case if the valve was inadvertently closed and then someone flushed a toilet or turned on a faucet, the pressure would drop causing the pressure switch to close, causing the pump to run. If the pump runs with the cutoff valve closed, the pump and drop pipe would be severely damaged. In other words the pump would run continuously building as much pressure as it could and the pressure switch would never cut it off because of a closed valve in front of it.
The water pressure. The gray box only lets the well pump pressurize the lines up to 50psi. All the lines in the house + the tank will be at 50psi. The one way valve on the tank outlet makes it so that the air bladder (28psi) will push the water out and maintain 50psi water pressure without the well pump having to turn on. The tank tee is just a hollow casting with multiple "ports" for attaching everything.
You are supposed to put the vall valve at the house end of the system (the end that goes to the house after the tank) not to the pump side because that doesnt do anything there is supposed to be a check valve on the pump side
Excellent video bro! I do have to give you a little ribbing on the "hot" water heater comment though. Common slip and I've made it too so I'm just picking at ya. 👍
Also my house dose not have enough water pressure how do I tell what is wrong I do not have no leaks but I don't think my husband knows how to put more pressure in tank I think he said it's got seven pounds in bladder
I am extremely good at Wells and pumps you said in your video the pressure switch not a pressure gauge it's a precious switch you cannot exchange them the pressure switch stays on the well side not the house side
All you had to do is pump up tank to original 38PSI.After draining the tank.Rubber membrane is in the tank so air does not dissolve in water. When membrane is broken all you have to do is pump air in once in 1-2 years depending on consumption. Polish fix, 0 cost.
That was a really good video you did a great job I still don't know if I can do that all that or know what all I need everything is a little different wines in a crawl space but the plumber wants 1700 LOL
I have Pressure switch 30/50 psi, I filled pressure tank with water and air, pressure turned off when when it’s over 50 psi and turn on when it’s lower the 30 psi, I have water in the house but i have to help pressure tank with adding air until 50 psi( when pump is running) , pump keep running and stock on 38 psi then when I plug air in and help build a pressure in the system, when it’s over 50 it’s turning off.. I have feeling like air leaking somewhere. But I have water in water faucet, and again pump turning on when it’s lower then 30 psi and then pump keep building pressure until 38 psi and just keep running without shut off i until I start adding air to 50psi until pressure switch hit and stop pump. Please tell me what is the problem?
I had a similar problem only our pump & tank are inside the cellar, the tank was 20 years old and the pressure fluctuation was caused by water getting by the air bladder in the tank, because it did it produced rusty water. Had a well company change it out to a fiberglass tank that won't rust and do the applicable plumbing.
The only question I gave is: Isn't it illegal to use PVC in potable supply? For some reason, I always thought it was. Is it a New England thing? You know, New England and their hoity toity laws. I've lived in New England, somehow, for over 50 years. My opinion is well founded.
@@johnafagerquist8235 maybe, yeah, I’m not sure, I just know that pvc is brittle and cracks. I went to school for plumbing in New England, and they probably deliberately neglected to mention anything about poison - they were still teaching about lead not too long ago.
my pump comes on and pressures up to normal but the gauge threaded into it immediately starts to slowly drop until it hits the low PSI point and fires up the pump again... checked all around for leaks and everything sounds normal in the well house. No water running so im guessing my pressure tank has blown😳 dont want to get ripped off by the repairman
Does it matter if the ball valve/shutoff valve is on the right side? The water comes into the house from the left. As it is now, when the water is shut off using the shutoff valve, the only thing it shuts off is the water going to the water filter.
home depot really does not make the best parts, that tank is generic and unfortunately a lot of their fittings and boiler drains arent NSF 61, meaning they are still leaded brass.
That was SUPER helpful. The well guy wanted $10,000 to install this himself. Not kidding. After watching this I think I'm going to give it a shot myself.
I am about to replace my tank, and your video make my life so much easier.....and....I don't have to pay an arm and a leg to a well service. Thanks a million!
That was SUPER helpful. The well guy wanted $10,000 to install this himself. Not kidding. After watching this I think I'm going to give it a shot myself.
Damn, 10k should be the price for digging and installing a whole well system from scratch...
How did your project come out? I'm about to get in my crawl space this weekend and get busy
Great job explaining!
A lot of good, accurate information here.
I had well water for over 35 years, so I am familiar with this tank change over.
Now in my retirement years, we have city water in this new home.
Expensive, but trouble free. In retirement trouble free is a good.
Great guide. Replacing ancient tank system with pressurized and needed to see all parts required. Mission Accomplished! Thanks!
Great Video...I thought I bought everything I needed after watching a few videos. I then watched your video and realized some of the things I bought I didn't need and I need to replace some of them with other things that I did not buy. Thanks so much for your video and time...
Great video, much appreciated!! This video was so easy to follow and made replacing our pressure tank and switch a breeze!!! Thank you!
Thank you! Glad it helped! Have a great day!
Thank you! Very helpful. Wish I had just saved myself a thousand bucks and done this myself. Lesson learned. There's always next time.
Great idea using a piece of flat stone for a base, I was racking my brain about what to use when I straighten/replace the one I have
Excellent video! Clear instructions, great attention to detail!
Great video man thanks a lot. My first house with a well.
Thanks for sharing your experience, be well.
Thank you for your excellent video. I need to replace my tank and now have the confidence to do so after your excellent video. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. I so appreciate the folks like you that document and share your knowledge with the rest of us DIYers on these type of projects. I am also about to take on this endeavor with a 35 gallon tank that actually rusted through an 1/8" hole in side and is slowly leaking. Unfortunately, my pressure tank is located in a closet in laundry room that also houses the water heat and the furnace. The current water heater is wedged in their tight so I will need to remove both water and gas pipes to get it out. I'm replacing it with a WaterWorks tank that is 5" slimmer but taller than the current tank at the same 32 gal. capacity. That should make replacement in the future much easier. With so many brands of water pressure tanks, how has the WaterWorks brand worked for you? They are definitely some of the most affordable tanks.
I was wondering the same thing about longevity of the Water Worker tanks. They are made by Amtrol, the same company that makes the Well Xtrol tanks.(Like the one he was replacing.)
Very good video. Right to the point. I could listen to you all day.👍
Awesome video, good info. Thanks for making this!
Very clear and concise instructions, thank you for sharing! Keep up the great work 👍
Great video and so appreciated! I just finished the job, thanks to you! One note, that brass cross pipe was nearly double what you guessed and may have been less had I shopped around.
It has doubled in price from when he filmed. Crazy
Great video. Couldn’t be any clearer from start to finish. Thank you.
Absolutely excellent, RUclips. Thank you very much. I do have a lazy man’s question, is there a parts list for this, RUclips. My Home Depot really does not have any helpful people and it would be great to have an itemized list. Thank you very much.
Thank you for making the video...well done.
Awesome video!! One of the best instructional videos I've ever seen!!
thank you, sir. very straight-forward explanation, Mr. Minthillbilly ( especially appreciated by this city boy )
Nice. Very clear and to the point. Answered any questions in advance.
this is the best video on this installation thanks
I agree
Great video! Clear concise info and great nuggets that I would have likely gotten wrong... specifically the tank pressure being 2 LBS below the low pressure regulator limit... Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thanks man. This was very informative. I understand the functions of the plumbing an gauges better.
Great video. Thank you. After seeing video I was able to do mine with confidence.
Hi, thanks for ur video. Didnt hear you say much about exactly how tight to tighten everything. Any advice on tightening the T and everytjing else? Thanku.
If I have a jet pump that has a built in pressure switch do I also need a pressure switch at the tank also or no. Please help
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing sir. That was an excellent explanation. Now I know!
Spledid, just what I was looking for! Such beautiful voice!
@Abel Levi - You and the guy “Oakley” that supposedly responded to you are both full of crap. Just wanted to let you and everyone else know.
Could you put a filter on the right side of you plumbing going to your well?
I'm not real sure. Most filter systems I've seen have been placed between the well house and the house. Some are inside the main house. If room permitted, I don't see why you couldn't filter before the tank too.
Hello your video was real helpful I apriciated, but I still have a question. My question is do I need the same size tank or I can get a bigger tank? Also do you think the regulator went bad stead of the tank? Thanks
You can always go bigger with the tank. A larger tank will reduce the time between pump cycles which will extend pump life. Also that wasn’t a “regulator” it was a pressure switch. As long as the switch cuts on at the cut in pressure (30 psi in his case) and cuts off at the proper cut off pressure (50psi in his case) and there is no voltage drop through the switch then it is working properly.
Great content. Thanks for spending the time to make a video like this.
Nice video. Good job, good lighting! Really demystified this process for me.
Thank you I learned a lot.
Thank you! Very informative and helpful.
Excellent, thanks for taking the time. This helps out immensely :-)
We are trying to put in pressure tank?Is their suppose to be a plug in the bottom inside the elbow?
Awesome video, very well explained, thank you 🤝👏👏👏👏👏
Question, if you're using an existing tank and upgrading everything else, should you bleed the air out of the tank before installation? I know you have to bleed the water but I wasn't sure how that worked?
Great video, very helpful! God Bless
Not a bad video but I would recommend a T-connector that have a union for easy tank replacement, once that PVC inlet and outlet slips are glued on they will have to be cut away to work on the tank.
Great video and explanation! Thanks for sharing!
Getting ready to replace my outside tank as well as pump,,rightnow we have little pressure until switch cuts in,,tried adjusting it but i think between tank being 25 years old and old switch a new set up will fix issue,,right now as soon as i cut on faucet pump clicks on for maybe 20 seconds and then shuts off until about 3 minutes later,,this causes a lag time in house waiting on shower or bath to have proper pressure..
How is that Water Worker tank holding up? It is 4 years old already.
No problems so far. I think this is the longest I have went without any issues with my water. Thanks for asking.
Thanks. I am trying to decide between a well-x-trol or a water worker. It is a pretty big price difference. @@minthillbilly
What's the thought process when deciding on a 30/50 vs 40/60 pressure switch? I know both are common, but I'm not sure when one would be preferred over the other. Or the advantage/disadvantage of one over the other. For example, if my house currently has a 30/50 switch, could I change to a 40/60 switch? (I realize I would have to adjust the tank pressure). Would this provide improved water pressure? Would there be a reason I wouldn't want to do that? Thanks to anyone in advance!
it's a matter of preference, really. If you have older pipes, realize that it is a higher pressure. but overall, a properly maintained system should be perfectly fine to handle the upgrade, just make sure you adjust the tank pressure to the appropriate PSI.
How did you get the plastic plug out of the tank???
Спасибо, все сделал как вы сказали, все работает! Это лучший ролик по установке бака.
If I get the tank do I have to get the pump s separate or I just have to get the tank
Great work
Nice job Sir!
that was a great very. very well explained, thank you
Thank you .....
checking the comments before watching ...better do this than listening for no reason I’m on my 10th video so far no luck :(
Perfect. Thank you sir.
there are shallow well pump where the pressure switch is attached directly to the pump. Is that OK? or should I move the pressure switch closer to the pressure tank?
Where did you get that plastic rock cover from??
Home Depot or Lowes. Can't remember which but they did have it in stock.
Great detailed video; I was thinking of either putting the shutoff ball between the PVC and the tank or having an additional one there.
Bad idea to put a cutoff between the pump and pressure switch.
@@stevee7774 Why? I've been considering working in a bypass between the pump and the final water output so I could take the tank part out of the system if needed. Why is it a bad idea to put a cutoff there?
@@jasoncy31 - I’m not sure exactly what you’re trying to do but some people mistakenly think they should have a cutoff valve before the pressure tank which means it will be between the pump and the pressure switch. In this case if the valve was inadvertently closed and then someone flushed a toilet or turned on a faucet, the pressure would drop causing the pressure switch to close, causing the pump to run. If the pump runs with the cutoff valve closed, the pump and drop pipe would be severely damaged. In other words the pump would run continuously building as much pressure as it could and the pressure switch would never cut it off because of a closed valve in front of it.
Thank you
BEST VIDEO !!!!
very well explain .....
You are awesome!
Thank you it was helpful
Wow, what a video! Thank you for posting.
Great video. Very informative.
Does the inside of the tee have a divider? What makes the water go into the tank and not straight into the house?
The water pressure.
The gray box only lets the well pump pressurize the lines up to 50psi. All the lines in the house + the tank will be at 50psi. The one way valve on the tank outlet makes it so that the air bladder (28psi) will push the water out and maintain 50psi water pressure without the well pump having to turn on.
The tank tee is just a hollow casting with multiple "ports" for attaching everything.
nice video, very informative
What was the cost of all your new components?
Good job
Good info!
Hello, one question, should there be a pre filter installed prior to the water entering the fittings and tank? Thanks Great Video
That’s a good question. Seeing as how my tank probably failed due to sediment I would say yes.
It’s dangerous to put anything that could cause a restriction between the pump and the pressure switch. This includes cut off valves and filters.
thank you that was a very informative
You are supposed to put the vall valve at the house end of the system (the end that goes to the house after the tank) not to the pump side because that doesnt do anything there is supposed to be a check valve on the pump side
Thank you
Didn't show how to properly pressurize the expansion tank, that was what I was looking for.
Clear information! I did have a great laugh while watching ur video…anyone else hear Mr. Mackey from South Park in the video … MehKay…HaHa
Excellent video bro! I do have to give you a little ribbing on the "hot" water heater comment though. Common slip and I've made it too so I'm just picking at ya. 👍
Lol! I’m pretty sure I’ve been guilty of that one too. Also he kept referring to the pressure switch as a “regulator” but no biggie.
Great video, thank you👍
Also my house dose not have enough water pressure how do I tell what is wrong I do not have no leaks but I don't think my husband knows how to put more pressure in tank I think he said it's got seven pounds in bladder
I am extremely good at Wells and pumps you said in your video the pressure switch not a pressure gauge it's a precious switch you cannot exchange them the pressure switch stays on the well side not the house side
thanks for the video a link to the parts you use might help you and us
thank you for sharing it helps
How do u no if the bladder is busted in your blue tank.
Water comes out of the valve stem on top when you press it.
All you had to do is pump up tank to original 38PSI.After draining the tank.Rubber membrane is in the tank so air does not dissolve in water. When membrane is broken all you have to do is pump air in once in 1-2 years depending on consumption. Polish fix, 0 cost.
That was a really good video you did a great job I still don't know if I can do that all that or know what all I need everything is a little different wines in a crawl space but the plumber wants 1700 LOL
Great 👍
I have Pressure switch 30/50 psi, I filled pressure tank with water and air, pressure turned off when when it’s over 50 psi and turn on when it’s lower the 30 psi, I have water in the house but i have to help pressure tank with adding air until 50 psi( when pump is running) , pump keep running and stock on 38 psi then when I plug air in and help build a pressure in the system, when it’s over 50 it’s turning off.. I have feeling like air leaking somewhere. But I have water in water faucet, and again pump turning on when it’s lower then 30 psi and then pump keep building pressure until 38 psi and just keep running without shut off i until I start adding air to 50psi until pressure switch hit and stop pump. Please tell me what is the problem?
What’s that called? at 5:52
He called it a pipe barb at the end
Good video, thanks
Why didnt the well driller put your pressure tank inside your home so it dont freeze?
I had a similar problem only our pump & tank are inside the cellar, the tank was 20 years old and the pressure fluctuation was caused by water getting by the air bladder in the tank, because it did it produced rusty water. Had a well company change it out to a fiberglass tank that won't rust and do the applicable plumbing.
Thanks for the information wow great video!!
Appreciated
The only question I gave is: Isn't it illegal to use PVC in potable supply?
For some reason, I always thought it was. Is it a New England thing? You know, New England and their hoity toity laws.
I've lived in New England, somehow, for over 50 years. My opinion is well founded.
Yes it can freeze and crack, PE pipe is preferred, much more elastic that PVC.
@@leeknivek I always thought it was a chemical-into-the-water issue. No?
@@johnafagerquist8235 maybe, yeah, I’m not sure, I just know that pvc is brittle and cracks. I went to school for plumbing in New England, and they probably deliberately neglected to mention anything about poison - they were still teaching about lead not too long ago.
my pump comes on and pressures up to normal but the gauge threaded into it immediately starts to slowly drop until it hits the low PSI point and fires up the pump again... checked all around for leaks and everything sounds normal in the well house. No water running so im guessing my pressure tank has blown😳
dont want to get ripped off by the repairman
Does it matter if the ball valve/shutoff valve is on the right side? The water comes into the house from the left. As it is now, when the water is shut off using the shutoff valve, the only thing it shuts off is the water going to the water filter.
Local plumber wants $2277 to do this.
home depot really does not make the best parts, that tank is generic and unfortunately a lot of their fittings and boiler drains arent NSF 61, meaning they are still leaded brass.
It's not a regulator. It's a pressure switch.
Thank you. Was driving my OCD crazy every time he said it.
👏👏👍
It's a pressure switch. Not a regulator.
OK
That was SUPER helpful. The well guy wanted $10,000 to install this himself. Not kidding. After watching this I think I'm going to give it a shot myself.
How did it go? I just picked one up and was going to do it this weekend