How to Size a Well Pressure Tank
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- Опубликовано: 1 июн 2024
- A pressure tank is an integral part of maintaining your well. Pressurized well tanks extend the lifespan of your well pump by preventing rapid on/off cycling of the pump and maintaining water pressure throughout your home. A properly sized pressure tank ensures your household water needs are met and your pump is protected against short-cycling.
Join John Woodard, our Master Water Specialist, as he discusses what well pressure tanks are, how to size them, and what accessories you need to make sure the tank functions properly.
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I wish there was an easy answer like “I have 6 people in my house so I need a 100 gallon tank “ 😂
There is count fixtures in house and tables you use
Yes, the video is completely useless and does anything BUT tell you how to size a well pressure tank.
There’s is a simple answer.. just look at the charts 📈 . Come on now it’s 2023 lmao
Great job of explaining a complex process in simple terms.
Thanks muchly! Every teacher of anything should explain things in a concise step-by-step manner as you have here.
You do a great job of explaining how a well tank works. Simple, with just a bit of technical info where needed to make a point.
You’ve sold stuff before, haven’t you? I’m going to have to check out more of your videos.
Thank you for the facts and technical support.
Thank you for the education! Very well explained!!
Well done and well explained. Thank you, Maurice :)
Great video and very informative. Keep putting out great content!
Excellent explanation! Best yet.
Very helpful!! I had no idea what the pressure tank was and how it worked.
Awesome, great explanation :D
Informative! Thanks!
Good explanation, thanks
Well done! Thanks for explaining in detail.
THANK YOU SO MUCH, VERY INTERESTING VEDIO, VERY GOOD EXPLANATION,SAFE FROM HARM. AND VERY GOOD FOR US TO THOSE WHO NEED WATER WELL.GOD BLESS YOU AND EVERYONE! AMEN! WE HOPE WE CAN HAVE THIS SOMEDAY GOD'S WILL BE DONE! AMEN! AMEN AND AMEN!
Good info ... great to know you are local to Greenville, SC area.
Great explanation, tyvm.
So sorry you could not articulate a clear and complete instruction on how to size a pressure tank. But it helped a little. I think an example is very useful. Maybe you could add it up to your explanation. That is important, I believe, and could make it complete or more useful.
My thoughts exactly.
Well Done, no pun intended, but the valve on the top/side of tank is of utmost importance too. That is where the tank gets it's compressed air! That air must be checked only when the tank is empty/drained etc. The psi is set 2-4 psi less than the cut in/pump turns on setting! I know people that have never checked them and wonder why the pump cycles too much. That CAN be the problem if the psi was ever lost like my nabes who's schrader valve leaked most of the air out. Instead of a new tank that a plumber suggested, we changed out the 25 cent schrader valve stem. Those are the same as on your car and bike etc tires!!!
Yeah I just learned about this (new to wells) and found the one at our cabin at 12 PSI and I filled it back up to 27 PSI since my switch is on at 30 PSI. Mine is the same brand he is showing and there was a big warning sticker over the valve that I had to break just to check the pressure so no one has ever tested it since 1997 when it was installed!
Here in East Texas we use Hydro pneumatic tanks. It's just a tank... no bladder. They are only found in areas where water quality requires them. Water and air are mixed together in a hydro pneumatic tank to reduce the "rotten egg" smell that sulphur bacteria and hydrogen sulphide gas in the water can cause. My question is I know there is a bleeder valve down under that allows water to drain back into the well and shuts when the well restarts. I believe this is so the air in the downpipe is used to recharge the tank and a float valve in the side of the tank controls the amount of air in the tank. I currently have a 40 gal tank and want to replace it with a 120. Is the depth of that bleeder dependent on the size of the tank?
I have a buried tank that is directly threaded into a Tee on the pump water outlet line. I need to unscrew the tank to remove it but it was buried laying flat. Getting a grip on the tank to turn it off the fitting is next to impossible. I need a strap wrench but they don't make them that big. What would you recommend?
Curious I am now using my well for sprinkler system only and minimally. How small of a pressure tank can I use? Reason being the actual well it in the main backyard and if I have to get a large pressure tank it would require a lot of pipping to move it to a less visible area. I would rather go smaller and know the downside is having to replace the motor a little more frequently.
how do I adjust the air pressure of the bladder using the Schrader valve on the pressure tank?
Great video, thank you
How do I know what my pump rate is? I did not live in my house at the time it was last replaced. I have no info about it.
What about wells with back flow preventer that are driven with gradual flow when opening which gets rid of the tank?
So let’s assume a 10gpm pump. And a 30/50 switch. Based on the math in the video 10gpm x 1gpm runtime (6secs or 1/10min?) that gives either a 60gal expansion tank, or a 1 gal expansion tank. Which is it? The units need to be explained.
I like these tanks but have a question …
Let’s think outside the box. RV usage. Use pressure tank as sole water storage tank.
Let’s take a 20 gallon tank. Filling the tank is manual. Pressurizing is manual. Loss of pressure is ok for this setup.
Can I use a 4.5 gpm (45psi) transfer pump to fill the pressure tank?
Can I use a automotive air compressor to pressurize the tank?
I understand this is a non standard application and probably not recommend due to legal issues. Only asking if those parameters would work.
I’m sure a pressure gauge and over pressure relieve valve would be handy additions.
Any suggestions for my scenario?
Do you help designing a small irrigation system? I live in the city, but have garden everywhere I can... I have half a dozen zones where I've run drip pipe. I run one zone at a time by dragging the hose, hooking it up, setting a mechanical timer and walking away... Not bad when you're on city water. But I also have 3000 gallons of rain water that I intend to use. I'm a forgetful guy and do not want a pump running when the timer stops the flow. I need a pressurized tank to mitigate the pump distress. Will know more about flow when a flow meter comes in the mail.
So my water outlate have 50 psi what is pressure switch should I get and do I have put more air in tank till it's reach 50 psi air in it?
I am replacing a 25 year old shallow pump and tank,,we have always had low water pressure so this time i want to put big enough tank and pump to have good pressure,,,prestn pump is 1/2 and a 20 gallon tank,,,i have a 2000 sq ft 2 bath home.what size pump and tank should i buy
Can I use pressure tank which outlet is 32mm to supply water to 63mm pipe ?
So how do we figure out the flow rate? Turn on the garden hose and fill a bucket and see how many gallons? I have buckets marked off with gallons and liters so I could do it this way would that work or do I go off of what they have listed on the equipment already there giving faith that that flow rate is correct on the current equipment. From experience with the previous homeowner this would not be a wise way of doing it as nothing was done correctly. For instance the house whisper square footage requires a water softener about three times the size of the one he had installed. The prior do it yourself first did to the barest minimum and I'm kind of paying the price
Greetings. I learn a lot from your videos, I'm trying to learn more so I can make an informed decision before making a purchase of a pressure tank for home use. When you mention "well" is it actually water well, or is well a brand?
Great :)
Does the tank have to be close to the pump?
My well is about 300 ft deep and the pump is a 3/4 hp pump, I was thinking of using my well to water my lawn, do I need to have a pressure tank or can I just turn the pump on and off as needed? If, so can I use a garden hose or should I use a one inch tubing? Will the pump be able to handle load?
Thank you for your help.
The more the pump cycles on and off the sooner it will die. A pressure tank is like a battery, it holds that pressure for a little while and when it needs more pressure the pump kicks on and recharges the pressure. Running irrigation straight off a pump can put more wear and tear on the hoses, connections, etc from that brutal beating of the force of the pump. Also don't forget a check valve to make sure your irrigation water doesn't run back down into your water supply and contaminate the whole neighborhoods aquifer. Some people fertilize with manure and that bacteria can be deadly. I was watering a bird bath at ground level since that's where the dove eat and drink at. I wondered why it kept going dry in one day. My water line was submerged in the water bowl and the water lines below it sucked the water out of the bowl.
pro tip: when moving the tank around it can be awkward wrestling a big round cylinder in to place. That screw hole on the top you talked about holding the tank up to powder coat it, well you can screw a big bolt in to it to grab on to when maneuvering the tank around. Also you didn't mention anything about the air pressure, and the air valve that looks like a car tire valve on the top of the tank.
Exactly, no mention whatsoever of tank pre charge which folks definitely need to know about.
@@stevee7774what’s tank pre charge?
@@ZPrezton - The manufacturer pre-charges these tanks with a certain amount of air pressure through a valve on top of the tank that is just like car tire valve stem. When the tank is installed the factory pre-charge needs to be adjusted to 2 psi below your pump cut in pressure. For example if your pump cuts in at 40 psi, you adjust pre- charge to 38 psi.
THUMBS UP BUT does this answer which size of tank that is BEST for one's house...it was very educational, but left me wondering if a 30 gallon or a 50-gallon thank is better for me. What is the maximum drawdown number you can get with a 30-50 switch and a Jet Pump (above ground) regardless of how long the pump takes to pressurize the tank? Am I missing something? I'm not as smart as I sometimes think I am!
You weren’t missing anything because he really didn’t explain tank sizing very well at all.
He actually did explain it. Maybe didn't emphasize it as well as he could have.
Once you have the drawdown amount which is the pumps Flow rate (gpm) x min run time (gpm),,,, you match your pressure tanks draw down to that number based on the pressure setting ie 30/50. The pressure tanks drawdown can be higher but not less or else you can get short cycling which causes pump stress.
So let’s assume a 10gpm pump. And a 30/50 switch. Based on the math in the video 10gpm x 1gpm runtime (6secs or 1/10min?) that gives either a 60gal expansion tank, or a 1 gal expansion tank. Which is it? The units need to be explained.
You, and others, talk about "minimum run time" for a pump. What about maximum run time? If a pump is considered to have for example a minimum run time of 1 minute, is it harmful to have it running for 1.5 or even 2-3 minutes? Is it harmful to use a tank with too large a drawdown causing a pump to run too long, and how long is too long?
A quality electric motor can run all day. If it is moving water through the pump, there is no maximum in MOST cases.
Excessive starts, not excessive run times, are what kills pump motors
Most of your Well Trol tanks are out of stock? How come? Thank you
So the bigger the pressure tank the better? I have a 20 gallon tank now but would like to go to an 81 gallon. Will I get 4 times the water if the power goes out and 4 times as long before the pump kicks back on? Thank you!
Keeping my pressure switch at 40-60 now for a 80 foot deep well. I tried 30-50 and the pressure was a little low. I was think of adjusting it to 35-60 for longer less pump cycles and longer pump run time. I want to not stress the pump but also have a good capacity if power goes out
1/2 hp 120v submersible pump. About 20 years old likely
Our well system (serves 4 homes) has just one pressurized tank and when we have a power failure we lose water as well as lights. I was thinking about putting in a generator with an automatic transfer switch. Would a series of pressurized tanks do a better job with less maintenance on the well pump?
Yes, 1 tank per home will greatly reduce pump run time and wear and tear.
I have exactly the same issue.
Well, basically you have 4X demand as compared to a 'nomal' 1 pump & pressure tank per house setup so your pump will need to pump 4x as much water (all things being equal e.g. same number of people in each home) as a pump serving a single residence.
Also, it is likely that, if everyone wakes up at teh same time . . . there will be 4X the morning use and 4x the run time each morning - lots of AM toilet flushing!
In theory, the additional pressure tanks would allow for more usage before the pump cut on except that, regardless which residence woke up first, the pressure in the four-residence system would be drawn down forcing teh pump to cut on. It is likely that the pump would be running all morning when that demand was high with teeth being brushed and toilets being flushed and coffee pots being filled with water - do you enjoy hard bolied eggs for breakfast?
Pressure tanks act like batteries and hold that pressure until they run out. Having more tanks can help hold the pressure longer. It sucks to wake up with no water pressure to shower, but even if the electricity is out you can still take a shower if you have enough pressurized water stored up. Then you can shower run down to the well supply company and get what you need to keep running. And the family can get off to work and school without stinking while you fix the problem.
You say when you lose power, you lose water--do you mean immediately? And you already have a pressure tank at the well (not one of those tiny expansion tanks that sits above the water heater in your home, but an actual well pressure tank, right)?
If I'm not mistaken, I think you should have a backflow preventer between your well and your pressure tank. That way, water from the pressure tank never escapes back into the well if the tank seal fails somehow. But because a pressure tank's very purpose is to create pressure in excess of what your household fixtures can use, and then to store that pressure until you need it, it should absolutely work, and you should be able to get water from your faucets for some amount of time after the power fails. The only other explanation I can think of would be that you've got a leak somewhere, and probably a pretty bad leak.
My well tank is over 20 years old, so it has held up all this time and still working fine. I know it could go out given we have summers over 100 F for months at a time, so I'm surprised the pressure tank is still good. What bothers me - some of the new tanks only guarantee their products for 5 years, so they are using very cheap bladders. WHAT ARE THE GOOD BRAND NAMES THAT LAST 20 YEARS????????????
Great question. My tank is about 23 years old. I think the brand is Sta Rite. I’ve heard some bad reviews about a lot of newer tanks including these Well Xtrols that seem to be so popular now. Would love to know which ones are better quality.
mine lasted 25 years and was a Pro-Line but I'm not sure if they make them anymore.
Ha, ha! Mine has been there 24 years already and the well guy told me 6 yrs. ago that the tank would be the "next thing to go". It's only a single tank and the house is 7,000 sq. ft. and up on a knoll, so our water pressure isn't too strong. Some use double tanks for better pressure I presume. I'm sure the newer ones are designed to fail sooner - they should design them to last forever, of course.
Amtrol sells a Pro Line series of pressure tanks, but they are not cheap. Not sure if it's better to have one big tank or two small ones like I see some places.
I need to ask because a friend wants to put a pressure tank outside in a building he will be building after he puts tank up ,We live in southside VA and I told him you can't do that .The well water is cold and the outside air is cold and even if you insulate it the building will not get warm
My grandparents had a pump and tank in a buried outdoor "well house" in CANADA and that thing never froze as long as one incandescent light was left running. So, basically, it will need a minor heat source and it'll be fine. VA is way warmer than Canada in the dead of winter. The bigger thing is to make sure it has ventilation. One year they forgot to open the lid a crack and it lit on fire. Amazingly enough, the FD told them that methane had built up, and when the pump switch kicked on, it made a spark and lit that sucker up.
@@Megatron995 wow we live in southside VA near the NC border and heat also worries me .His pump is in the well shaft that is around 100 ft deep .The electric bill is what he is worried about since he has electric that goes out all the time .Last year his was out almost a month .and another time 2 weeks and every little storm his electric goes out because they do not cut the back the trees off the wires
Okay I had a tank 2 years ago that was on my Gould's 1, 3/4 horsepower pump. I'm not sure the size of tank but if you were standing up it would be just passed or close to your waistline. The pump seem to be cutting in and out too much so I went and seen ecowater North and he told me I could go with a smaller tank (20 gallon). Problem is now if the washing machine is running or filling there's hardly any water upstairs. the salesman knew I was trying to save some money on a tank price and he told me I would be fine with that small tank. My question is, is this tank the 20 gallon, too small and just going to cause me to burn out my pump,? should I move back to the larger tank? Thanks in advance.
I would go for the larger tank, it ok to go bigger, but not smaller. I have a 32 , and wanted to go bigger, but then I would have to change up my lines because they would need to be moved.
Odd, I have a smaller tank than your 20 gal, and I have pressure upstairs same as outdoors and down cellar. Are you sure the tank has the right pressure and the bladder is ok?
I have a 19 gallon tank with a 8gpm pump. Is my tank too small? It seems to work fine. Just curios.
Your tank is bigger than mind I've had for 30 years.
The water came out every time I checked with the pressure gauge .I had the 3horse power pump with the 40-60 switch. Do I need to replace the tank . Thank you, sir
Sounds like it. Water shouldn't come out when checking pressure.
I currently own the well x trol 203 I don’t know how old it is but I’ve been in my house for 10 years and it’s all rusty now at the bottom I’m looking to buy a new system was looking to buy a bigger tank but I don’t know the spec of my well pump 😩
Depending on where you live, you can go to the twp or the county and request the records for the original well install. In all that paperwork you should see mention of how deep your well is, specs on the pump itself, ect. I had the same issue and pulled the paperwork and it showed my well was about 100ft deep, and there was a 1/2 hp pump that does 10GPM. I was even able to see this was the second well pump that was put it. The original one was 16GPM and there was a smaller pressure tank in the house with that setup.
I want a pressure tank for the city water supply (not well water). I have 75lbs off pressure but very low flow. For example, I can’t run a faucet when the toilet flushes, flow drops. Do I need a pump and a pressure switch in my case?
I think, based on my experience, you could put a good sized tank with a check valve on the city water supply side, and make the pressure changes smaller. The problem is the city supply is restricted some way so when ever you draw water the pressure will fall. A tank will help but to maintain the desired pressure a pump will have to be added. Might want to check with the public works or water department and see if there is anything they could do to fix it from their side. Maybe the water meter is too small or damaged?
Rental house where I reside has low pressure. Wish they would increase the water pressure.
Question: If the bladder has a leak, why wouldn't tank still work as the air is trapped in top of tank???
If the bladder has a leak the air from the tank can gradually leak into the water lines and eventually completely out, water logging the tank
My question is, how are Fresh Water Systems made? Inside and Out. The reason I'm asking, because I've been doing research and came upon a video that (Amtrol)-"company". Showed how and what their products are made from Inside and Out. So, I'm just trying to see if there is any existing info out there.
Why do you need a bladder? Is it to avoid corrosion of the tank in which case why not buy a stainless tank?
Will a tank work efficiently on its side. There’s not enough room in my crawl space to stand one up.
Any detriment to over sizing?
No, within reason. Larger tanks mean well pump generally works less often, which extends its life. I have a 32 gallon tank in my single family home with four bathrooms. My son has a similar (newer) home and bought an 80 gallon pressure tank. Most common for single family homes are 20 gallon units, which I think are too small. Am big advocate of 40-60 psi range (rather than 30-50). I have no clue what my well pump flow rate might be!
So how do you find out the flow rate of a pump?
@@Travis12861 Ha, ha! Yeah, I figured that, but doesn't do a lot of good when the pump is at the bottom of the well. I decided not to pay a ton of money to a well service just to come out and remove the pump just so they could tell me the specifications. So, I took an educated guess at what size tank I needed.
By the way, after calling a well company to get some advice on what size tank I needed, I was given some odd advice. They asked me how many people lived in the house. When I said 2, they said 30 gallon is fine. So, they did not compute the tank size by the pump flow.
Who makes the best well pressure tank?
What would happen if you put a bigger tank than what you have?
Less pump cycling and greater draw down capacity. (Both good.)
How much the time go for
How much one of the blue Tango go for
How much the tan go fo
clear as mud, you should of done an actual sample calculation
That's some garage you got there.
All well x troll tanks are precharged for a 40/60 switch. 38psi of air
No they are not
@@brucelewis6568 all new ones are pre charged to 38psi. We install about 75 of them every year. Wx202, wx203, etc
I'm pretty sure my pressure tank is not set up properly at all. It doesn't have any of that stuff on it. It just has a pvc pipe coming in after an elbow to the main water line out of a line on my 1hp jet pump. Line from the jet pump does have a pressure gauge at least.
I’m a plumber. Customer wants a 27 gallon tank. He has a 32 now and it’s leaking. He doesn’t want a 39 Bc that’s the next size up at my supply house. He’s selling the house so just wants it fixed
4:10
My wife has been telling me that I need a hearing aid.. I'm starting to believe her in that I "distinctly" heard you say that we "Today we are shit!ing in our warehouse"
Man...😖😵
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I needed a belly laugh badly, thanks
Should there be water, in, tank?
Isn't the tank to hold water, probably a 1/3 of the tank is water- I'm guessing
@@sjr7822 I already replaced the tank, there is very little water in tank.
Well explained however, the pressure switch is only 15 Dollars. Why replace the entire T-Package.
I'm guessing to sell more T-packages...😆
wy do you need a holding tank with expantion tank s somtimes
A water heater expansion tank, or thermal expansion tank, is a safety device
designed to protect your household plumbing from thermal expansion.
50-gallons of cold water will (due to thermal expansion) expand to become at
least 52-gallons once it's heated and the extra 2-gallons of water will no
longer fit in the 50-gallon water heater tank. That's where a thermal
expansion tank comes in.
The capacity of a residential hot water thermal expansion tank is typically
only about 2 to 4 gallons. An expansion tank only contains overflowing HOT
water. It does hold ANY water for the cold water system, and it does not
store water on a permanent basis. The water within the thermal expansion
tank is released back into your hot water system and is probably nearly
emptied the first time anyone uses any hot water.
See: Everything You Need To Know About Water Heater Expansion Tanks
www.waterheaterleakinginfo.com/expansion-tanks/
its a tank stand for a pump
What happen your wife want to start up the dishwasher do you want to jump in the shower and one of your kids want to jump in the shower to another bathroom that pressurized tank can hold three different water source going on
Basically you get the flow rate of the pump / amount of outlets spewing h20. Thus the shampoo won’t be knocked out your hair from low flow rate available!!
shiping from a garage is totally fine. you do realize companies like apple and amazon started taht way???
Never actually said how to size the tank.
i thought i missed it. So how do you size a tank?
@@nickmiller4745 A tank is a thing that holds air and water.
@@nickmiller4745 You didn't miss it because he never covered it
Amount of people in home or whatever the application for the water desires. But you can’t ever exceed the pump rate. After drawdown you are limited to pump output.
80,000 sq ft facility damn way to flex on us
too confusing in the middle here
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That whole calculation sucks!
as long as one has the budget and the space they can stack up as many pressure tanks as they could, the other key point missing in this video is the energy consumption by the pump, every time the pump comes on it sucks life out of your electric, by having larger or multiple pressure tanks, we are storing more and more water per every pump start so the pump does not come on as often as when we have just 1 tank, I have 40gl, 30, 30 & 60ga pressure tanks & zero electric bill I can say with solar.