My five cents - My method for electrical connection/splice in pressurized water is hot melt glue filled crimp on heat shrink connectors. Have a small butane powered heat source with catalytic burner for shrinking when there is no electric power. no need for special tape around the splice. Also use jacketed stranded conductor cable for connection of well pump. I never use 2 wire pumps and always 3 wire pumps because I want the capacitor for the Permanent Split Capacitor motor of the well pump above ground! What makes the pump fail is in many cases a bad capacitor, so when it is above ground you do not have to pull out the pump from the well, just change the capacitor in the control box and you are done. A lot less labor, sure the initial investment for the one more wire down the well ads to the install cost, but in the long run I get out of 'GOULDS' pumps more than 10 years in average. Well head is always protected by stainless steel 55 Gal Barrel with lid where I cut the bottom out - and the Barrel gets grounded with a 8 ft grounding rod and connected to the ground wire at the wellhead. use only PSC motor pumps this way even direct lightning strike damages nothing on the pump since the 3 wire pump down in the well has MOV's. Of course in a competitive marketplace with homeowners on a budget doing it my way may price you out of the market. But you may consider offering this version as an alternative if durability is asked for. Also use a power sensing timer swi9tch at the control box so the pump never runs dry. The moment the low yielding well is pumped out the pump stops and waits a preset time before it restarts. The control box for the 3 wire pump even gets a run capacitor for the PSC motor added. Doing all this gets a lot more mileage out of an install and when lightening strikes you still have running water.
Just want to wish you contd. success your down to earth attitude and knowledge is very helpful and easy for this ole country boy to comprehend as well preform , granted the task of pulling the 110’ submersible pump by hand was quite daunting ,luckily my son-in-law was available as we successfully accomplished the job ! Gotta say it felt good to save the $$$$ by doing this ourselves , felt even better as a 67 year old dog learning a new trick 😉 Again …. Thanks & God Bless
I'm in north Texas and 550-600 ft wells with pumps at 400-440 ft down use pvc pipe. My original pump that supplies house and watered horses and cattle lasted 22 yrs and my well has some silt. Replacement is filling a 1000 gallon tank and a 3/4 hp shallow well pump now is my system. The gpm is 30 instead of 6-7. The 3/4 pump is 2 ft below tank bottom and overdoes its 27 gpm as a result. Water trough filling is wonderful now.
It all depends on the static level and the draw down. no matter how deep the pump is set or how deep the well is, you are only lifting water from the level in the well to the level of the house.
Good vid. I'd like to ad my 2 cents though on the electrical connections. I have been using waterproof heat shrink connectors in the marine business for years. Just crimp and heat shrink with a heat gun small torch. You could of course still add the tape afterwards but not really necessary.
I like using them on my stuff as well. Little suckers are expensive though! They are heat/epoxy Resin that helps seal the connection. The truth is, my Well connections never go bad, I believe bc they don't see air. In 30+ years of doing these, we've never had one fail. But not all conditions are the same. Most ppl can access heat shinks easier than rubber tape.
I enjoy watching you work, doing it the right way. I would hire you immediately just from what I have seen so far. But one thing scared the heck out of me. When I saw you hold a hot wire in each hand and plug them into that socket, I cringed. At the very least, just plug the first one in and let it go, then the second one to test. But the safest, and a pretty easy way to do it is put a 230 volt disconnect before your socket. Then you can plug them both in, and turn on the power safely without you touching anything. Stay safe, sir.
Hey there. I like your videos. Wish mine was as simple but up north in Maine things are different. We have steel casing, have to have a pitiless adapter and my well is 600’ deep- still didn’t have much water so it was hydro fractured- now have 1.5 gpm and the water level is up to 10’ below the surface. It’s less than 60’ from well to where the tank etc will be in the house. I’m capable of doing the plumbing and electrical just need guidance and what materials- size, hp, brand of pump, size of pipe and wire ( thinking of smaller pipe for wire to run in taped to water line?). I have the tools and skills just need advice. Thanks
Good morning! Just purchased property with a well with no pump. Looking to get water flowing quickly and as inexpensive as possible. The well is 265 feet deep. What size well pump to you recommend for a well that size! I appreciate your information and insight! Thank you so much! 🙏🏻
Excellent video, thanks for making this info available to the average Joe! Was wondering, could you use heat shrink tubes (with adhesive lining - it melts around the wires as you apply the heatgun) around the wire connections instead of the water proofing tape, or both? Personally I just wouldn't trust that water proofing tape alone.
Been watching and am impressed. I saw u use the rubber tape and couldn’t help but wonder why a marine grade heat shrink wouldn’t be better. It’s water proof and awesome. Check it out if u haven’t heard of it. It has a glue in it that activates when u shrink it making a water tight seal
Why not use those self-sealing adhesive filled marine electrical connectors? Take just a second to shink with some heat and I've never seen one fail... but I dont do wells. Is there a reason not to use them in a well?
My Well Details: Elevation:320' Well Depth 266' with 4" casing and changes to 2" casing at about 110-120' for the remainder of the 266'. The pump Intake is at 105 feet Water Level 55-60 Feet right now I have a Hallmark Industries MA0459X-14A Deep Well Pump, 3" (3.3 Max), 3/4 HP, 230V/60Hz/1Ph, 14 Stage, 270' Head Max, 13 GPM Max, 1"Npt. I have it set a 40/60 PSI and a cycle stop valve set at 58psi. I am looking to increase my volume of water and was told I should look at a 2HP pump if that is what I want. Guidance on sizing a pump for more water volume and same or better PSI would be great.
By the way, R.C. Worst (a company out of Washington state) offers some great guidance on drop pipe. In order of pressure, the poly pipe they consider 'lightest duty' with 'most-headache' for anything other than shallow wells...they won't begin to recommend it for anything deeper than 100-feet. Next-strongest, PVC (Schd. 120)...they recommend for wells up to 520-feet (1-inch dia), and also relatively easy to assemble if you use a simple hold-jig, as you drop it. Lastly, for 'ultra-deep wells', there's galvanized steel drop pipe...which is rated to many-thousands of feet. I kept looking at that poly you were working with, and couldn't put my finger on it at first...but I've never seen poly used locally...and even when I lived 'back east', never remembered seeing a well deeper than 100-125' that had a poly drop pipe...once you pass that point, they were always galvanized steel (good for 15-20 years down-hole). I know you're just going on that SIDR 7 rating of 250-psi, divided by the 'every 33 feet is 14.7 psi' value...but a lot of 'deep well' guys will tell you, it will not stand up. Just an FYI.
I'm not sure why some installers wouldn't use poly. Around here wells are typically 150-300 ft, and we use 160 psi poly all the time. I've never ever seen a failure. ALL the professionals use poly here. Central British Columbia, Canada.
Pumps under 300' are typically set on 160 PSI poly pipe in our area. We have pulled a few that were set 500' on poly, but I would not recommend it and i would replace the pipe with SCH 80 or 120 . We service hundreds of pumps a year and rarely find any issues with the poly drop pipe . We have more problems with the buried offset line bursting than the drop pipe.
Do you have a suggestion on what pump to use on an 80' well that my driller says was pumping 15gpm. The water level is at 54ft. Great video. I've have gained a bunch of knowledge from your videos and am finally about to dive into the installation. Also, if you had a link to the flat 12/2 yellow wire that would be awesome. Thanks so much.
As I observed, you made a better choice which is crimping the cable extension to pump. It is better than splicing the cable together. However, joint splicing at the same length is not good and ideal? Although, the use of rubber insulation tape is okay, why not make the splicing in different length? In general, you made a good job.
My pumps been in my well for 50 years and still going. Im wondering if i should just replace it or leave it. No issues really. Fills the tank in 30 seconds
Is there such thing as a 'helper pump' that would assist the deeper pump since this well is so deep? One placed inline 1/3rd the way down? as the deep pump gets it almost to the top, the last bit is augmented by the other pump? Yes, this would take 2 power sources and maybe add a little complexity but is this a thing? I understand this video is a little old but thanks for your time and videos explaining things so well!
Couple of questions. You used screw type of clamps on the hose barb at the pump. Why don't you a bandit type of clamp instead? I might of missed something did you or do you use a stainless cable to support the weight of the pump and pipe to take the load off of the pipe joint at the hose barb?
I had a well drilled about 13 years ago, they installed devices about every 7 to 8 feet along the drop pipe "I believe that is what you call it" to prevent the wire and drop pipe from coming in contact with the walls of the well and casing. I notice you don't do that. it appears that it would help but I am not a well expert but I have known wells that have had the same pump and drop pipe for 30 plus years.
Do you know of any pump that can be used to pump water up a 3/4" water hose from a 100' deep well casing where the pump is up on the ground next to the casing? The closer to 9 gpm the better. I have a 2500 watt submersible now but I lose pressure in the house when the pump is running 24/7 into the lake. I was hoping to find a 1000 watt dry pump instead to save money and allow the submersible one to be use for the home only. I don't think running a water hose in the casing would hurt if I cut the metal nozzle off and I have room for it???? I wish there was a way to make my current 240 volt submersible a variable speed with some kind of controller without hurting the pump? I guess the power speed would change depending on needed water pressure. So when I'm filling the lake only and the pump is running 24/7 I could set the controller at say 1000 watts or 40 lbs and when I use water in the home at the same time causing the pressure drops the pump would go back to 2500 watt slowly to fill the tanks until it notices a constant 40 lbs again which it would then turn back down to 1000 watts slowly. Pressure tank is around 35/75 when I bought the home and I usually run it at 18 lbs constant to fill the lake between rains. I've had the pump running for 2 weeks at a time with no issue and its flowing around 17.5 gpm at 18 lbs controlled with a valve ball I turn half open. The home own has the water passing through the pressure tank before filling the lake but I wounder if it should be before the pressure tank that way the tank is used for the home only and I can have good pressure to take a shower instead of 18 below? Might have to go to solar but have no idea about that stuff or the cost, just need to rule out the garden hose first if it wont suck water up from 100' with 1000 watt pump. Thanks
I have a shallow well (less than 100' deep) I want to install a submersible pump down in the bottom of my well so I can seal off the casing, 1. Do they make shallow well submersibles, and 2. Do you have any experience or knowledge about its installation?
It's interesting that you bench-rest the unit before installation. You do that dry? Just for a moment? Roughly what percentage of the pumps you bench-test are defective? I helped install a pump some years ago, deep, and it was defective. What a major headache it was to pull it and replace with another.
I like the way you wrap tape every 2 feet. I have had pump people do it every 10+ feet and when then owner wants me to do a specific capacity drawdown test to see what their well can produce. when I lower my sounder down the well if you don't put you tape close together the transducer can slip between the wire and the pipe then when you retrieve it, it can hang up and get stuck and be a problem to get out. I have had to pull the pump a few time to retrieve the transducer. Keep using a lot of tape. I wish you set all of the pumps in wells I have worked on, but maybe you wouldn't like to we have to set our pittless adaptors around 7-7.5 feet.
that rubberized tape will make a water resistent seal and last 20++ years in water? I would have thought something more substantial to seal wires. Thanks
I’ve got a 600 foot well with a static at 272 feet. I have two questions for you. If you don’t mind, what size pump would you recommend and Brand? Also, originally it had poly pipe in it for 22 years and I’m leaning toward using poly pipe. Is this what you would recommend?
Hello, what size/brand is this pump. I am about to replace a pump. My well and depth are the same as this well. Also my water has never cleared up since it was drilled and my pump has died because it has been working in incredibly silty/clay contaminated water. Any suggestions on a brand of pump that can handle dirty water better than others? Thank you so much for your time. Great channel!
I was wondering I have a 400 ft well stagnant water level is at 190 I had a pump in there from 10 years ago I just need to know what size how many horsepower how many RPMs do I need
Hello, thank you for making these videos!! I have a 400ft well and would like to install the vevor 3hp 230v 37gpm 640ft to head pump but noticed you said lower gpm is better for deeper wells and I'd like to put it at 380ft like the well in the video. Do you think this pump will work? The hydrant will be just 4-6ft from the well head. Also I was planning to use 10 or 12ga wire and 160psi pipe, is this the correct choice? The pump will be run off a generator a couple times a year at a recreational property.
None of that would work. Not a good idea to use vevor unless you tight on cash. Still then you'd need #8 wire & 250psi pipe to go 400ft . That pumps not designed for that depth (advertising is not also true). But yes, to go 400ft deep you'd need a 5GPM pump not a 20-40gpm. High volume pumps are designed to flow alot of water at lesser depths. I just went in depth to another viewer wanting to do something very similar. Others used vevor down deep and keep melting the wires. So I wouldn't advise it. Buy a 3/4 or 1hp. 5gpm pump and use #10 wire . 200psi pipe is good for about 350ft max fyi
@@h2omechanic Thank you for the reply, I really appreciate the feedback!! I want to spend as little as possible so we are going to get a Vevor. The pump will not even run more than 1 hour a year, maybe 4 times a year around 10 or 15 minutes max to pump some water out of the hole. I think I'll just get the super cheap 1.5hp Vevor and drop it down 100ft and call it good. The primary focus is make it as cheap as possible to get water out of the hole.
I have a 2 inch well with a dual stage jet pump. I'm considering going with a 2 inch submersible. It's a 63 ft well. It is at a Florida vacation home and has to be primed with 5 gallons of water every time I visit. What are your thoughts? Thank You! Love the channel.
That plug situation is 😬. Look up the Cliff Quick Test, they can be a bit pricey and hard to get in the US, but definitely worth it for your use case. It would also allow you to get the pump further from the outlet so it can be tested vertically
I'm in Zimbabwe so this might sound backwards but we always use wire splicing kits with resin on submersible pump connections. I cannot believe that a bit of rubber tape will stop water ingres, especially at depth, other than that our processes are exactly the same, exept we only use galvanised pipe down our holes & always use a safety cable🤔...have to use shear legs to lift them, impossible to lift by hand!...thanks for educating me, love your videos!...come visit Zimbabwe sometime, it's a beautiful place!
I pulled my well pump due to no water once. I then hooked it up and it jumped just like yours did on the bench, then I dropped it back down. It still didnt work because the coupler between the motor and pump broke. Good thing it's only 50ft down.
Need a little help: Im looking to buy and install my own pump for an artesian well that was drilled and lined back in 2003. The notes from the install say the well is 300' deep and had 11 GPM of flow. The ran 100' of PVC and 40' of Steel casing. Can anyone help me figure out what pump I'd be good to run?
I have PCV well piping, I need a new pump. Should I convert to rubber flex hose? The well is 300 feet down.My old pump was installed in 2001. It was a 2 hp pump. What he should be running?
I have 3 wells at my farm pumping into 2 3000 gallon water tanks, so no head pressure other than the well depth. In the heat of the summer i need all 3 wells at peak performance to supply my farm. 2 wells are 500' and 1 is 700' all 1.5hp F&W with control boxs. Recently the 700' well seems to be over pumping itself. It was rated at 7gpm but has always produced around 9gpm and never had an issue for 8 years now. It seems to be running out of water and it will trip the pump protection device. I pinched the outlet valve down to 4.5 gpm and it will run there without tripping. So i guess that one is running out of water. The one that i want your opinion on is the 500' well and i believe it has a 15gpm pump set at around 380' It was rated at 15gpm but has never been able to produce that much. Maybe 8 or 10gpm consistently. This week it was down to 1.5 to 2gpm. I checked the amps and both legs are between 9.6 and 9.8 so i dont think its running out of water or the pump is worn out or the amps would be much lower correct? Your video made me think that it could have a crack in the pipe. Schedule 140 pvc 1.250" but it would have to be in the casing because there is no sediment coming out of the pipe. The thing is that after 4 days of 1.5 to 2 gpm its now putting out 6gpm. I could use a little help. Any ideas? Thank in advance, J
Are there any solar powered pumps with an additional manual function? I’m looking for one that I could still operate manually if the solar function failed
My Franklin 1 hp 230v submersible pump is 40 feet down the well and has a pvc check after it exits the well right before the pressure tank. A faucet is installed on top of the well head and only works when the pump is running because the check valve is preventing the pressure tank to get to the facet when it’s not on. Can I remove this pvc check valve? Or does the submersible require it. Thanks
So I live in California, about 50 miles from Fresno. My question is why do the local well companies use galvanized rigid pipe for the pump discharge? Why are they not using plastic here???
Would love to see one of these disassembled, when I think of a 1hp motor I think of a baldor type induction motor, (far larger than these) I'm curious to know how they fit 1hp of motor into a 3" or 4" diameter.
ruclips.net/video/VjR0dfcto5c/видео.html I have a video on these pumps disassembled . I've covered alot of different & random topics, you just have to search thru Alot of videos & Playlists
I have a franklin submersible pump model 15HR22x9-s2 cant find anything on it when i look it up. I was wandering if you could tell me any information on it my looking at my model number? Thanks
I read that pump says 230 volt with 3-wires. Normally 3 wires means two hots and neutral. Is it different for these pumps? If its 230 volts, doesn't that require dual breakers? Confused
I have a deep well that is 80 feet deep. At 70 feet I got 15 gallons a minute when the driller hit water. I have a few questions for you. 1st what size pump do I need as far as horse power with a 220 volt feed? 2nd do I need a Brass check valve in the water line and should it be placed on the top of the pumps threads? I will use 1 inch black plastic pipe the kind you have recommended in other videos of SIDR-9 200 PSI. 3rd my cabin has plastic water pipe installed 35 years ago that are glued with PVC cement fittings. What should the water pressure PSI be for the hi low limit switch 20 40 or 30 to 50 as well as a Low water cut off on the switch so IF there is low water the pump does not constantly run and burn itself out. 4th the pressure tank 36 gallon or 20 gallon?
Awww...shucks, that ain't nothin'! Out here in West Texas we have wells that go down 600, 700...even 900 feet (deepest I've heard of anyone nearby having one is 1150 feet). You get to pushing THAT MUCH water, you have to 'multi-stage' your deep well pumps...multiple breakers, serious piping, relief valves...almost like 'drilling for oil'...friggin' Permian Basin wierdness! Great video, though...good explanation for 'sane depths'.
I seen a few vids of deep well pumps going bad and have electrical tape in the intake. Is there is better thing to use for wrapping the wires that will not degrade and get sucked into the pump?
In my experience, electricians tape looks like brand new after fifteen years. It's icy cold all the time and in total darkness. I used cable ties once but didn't like them: I kept snagging my gloves on them as we set the pump.
I see a durachoice 1 inch Y-spring, npt, 316 stainless, PTFE seal, 304 stainless spring check valve. It looks like a top quality check valve, anything to say about it? Thank you for your video send your time.
Great content. Question- my well doesn’t produce enough so I am installing a holding tank in my basement. Static level 21 ft, well depth 42 ft. I know I just need a 1/2 hp pump but since I’ll be putting a 3 gpm flow control valve does it matter what the gpm is for the pump? Do I need a control box with a 3 wire pump to control the pump with a float valve?
subbed! also want to thank you for your nice video's. both wells on my ranch dried up. the one "good" well, that used to put out like 5-8 gpm at 280 ft, finally started sucking water and the pumpsaver didn't work and pump kinda stopped working. i had them pull the 4 1/2" casing and deepened it. static water was at 109' per sounder but i have my doubts how long it takes to get to 109'. i would figure more of a 250' ish working static level. before they started deepening at 280' it was doing about 3/4 gpm. they hit 2 gpm at 340' and it stayed that way down to 580' where they hit hard blue/red granite so we stopped. put 4.5" pvc casing down to 580'. i figure to set pump at 570'. was planning on using 1' sch120 pvc with stainless couplings and 3 check valves. i figure about 470' of water in well so let's say 900 gallons that refills at 2 gpm from 340' and refills at 3/4 gpm higher up. all i need the pump to do is fill up my 2500 gallon black water tank,,,, the jet pump takes over from there to supply house and barn. there is a warwick switch system for controlling water level in black tank that turns subermisble on and off. i was thinking a 1 hp franklin motor with a 5 gpm pump. what do you think? the problem is the 5 gpm pump will out pump the well if black tank is really low. so i either need to change switch level or use timer for pump. thanks for any insight.
I need ur help... I bought 2yrs ago a vevor 2h's power pump. My well is 40ft deep n before we had 40 below wind chill I had the pump working. I think it froze up cause we had no water any more. That was about 2wks ago so I'm sure it's thawed out by now but we still have no water. Is it possible that the pump burnt up in that short of time. I don't hear the pump kicking on or off. I flicked the connectors on the pressure system n didn't see any sparks n they are opened up not closed. Is it also possible that we aren't getting power to the pump. Please if u can help me figure this out I'd be so grateful thanks so much Mama Spitta
@@h2omechanic OK so if wires are ok then how do I tell if pump is fried.... N I'm hoping n praying that it's not. I just can't afford another one right now
I was searching for the Simmons brass check valve, I only found the female ends type. Would like to find the one you used in this video, the male thread on the pump side to female threads to the adapter. Do you have a link to buy that part? Greatly appreciated and thank you for great informative videos! Your a big help to all
My five cents - My method for electrical connection/splice in pressurized water is hot melt glue filled crimp on heat shrink connectors. Have a small butane powered heat source with catalytic burner for shrinking when there is no electric power. no need for special tape around the splice. Also use jacketed stranded conductor cable for connection of well pump. I never use 2 wire pumps and always 3 wire pumps because I want the capacitor for the Permanent Split Capacitor motor of the well pump above ground! What makes the pump fail is in many cases a bad capacitor, so when it is above ground you do not have to pull out the pump from the well, just change the capacitor in the control box and you are done. A lot less labor, sure the initial investment for the one more wire down the well ads to the install cost, but in the long run I get out of 'GOULDS' pumps more than 10 years in average. Well head is always protected by stainless steel 55 Gal Barrel with lid where I cut the bottom out - and the Barrel gets grounded with a 8 ft grounding rod and connected to the ground wire at the wellhead. use only PSC motor pumps this way even direct lightning strike damages nothing on the pump since the 3 wire pump down in the well has MOV's. Of course in a competitive marketplace with homeowners on a budget doing it my way may price you out of the market. But you may consider offering this version as an alternative if durability is asked for. Also use a power sensing timer swi9tch at the control box so the pump never runs dry. The moment the low yielding well is pumped out the pump stops and waits a preset time before it restarts. The control box for the 3 wire pump even gets a run capacitor for the PSC motor added. Doing all this gets a lot more mileage out of an install and when lightening strikes you still have running water.
Just want to wish you contd. success your down to earth attitude and knowledge is very helpful and easy for this ole country boy to comprehend as well preform , granted the task of pulling the 110’ submersible pump by hand was quite daunting ,luckily my son-in-law was available as we successfully accomplished the job !
Gotta say it felt good to save the $$$$ by doing this ourselves , felt even better as a 67 year old dog learning a new trick 😉
Again …. Thanks & God Bless
I appreciate watching true professionals doing their jobs.
He's not a proffesoinal by any stretch. Watching this video gave me a headache
What professional runs a dry pump to make sure it works??
"True professional" lol
Tech tip for when you finish your tape job it a zip tie so the end will never peel off. I’d use this technique for the water proof connections.
I'm in north Texas and 550-600 ft wells with pumps at 400-440 ft down use pvc pipe. My original pump that supplies house and watered horses and cattle lasted 22 yrs and my well has some silt. Replacement is filling a 1000 gallon tank and a 3/4 hp shallow well pump now is my system. The gpm is 30 instead of 6-7. The 3/4 pump is 2 ft below tank bottom and overdoes its 27 gpm as a result. Water trough filling is wonderful now.
How are you pulling water up from 440 feet? My well is 550ft and pump is at 440 feet. 5 hp with 3 wire pump and franklin control box.
@@johnwehunt43055hp? My well is 500ft deep. My red lion 1.5hp pump pumps 11gpm from 460ft down. Your gpm must be over 30 with that pump I bet
It all depends on the static level and the draw down. no matter how deep the pump is set or how deep the well is, you are only lifting water from the level in the well to the level of the house.
Good vid. I'd like to ad my 2 cents though on the electrical connections. I have been using waterproof heat shrink connectors in the marine business for years. Just crimp and heat shrink with a heat gun small torch. You could of course still add the tape afterwards but not really necessary.
They are much more reliable than tape. They have a hot melt adhesive on the inside of the tubing.
I like using them on my stuff as well. Little suckers are expensive though! They are heat/epoxy Resin that helps seal the connection. The truth is, my Well connections never go bad, I believe bc they don't see air. In 30+ years of doing these, we've never had one fail. But not all conditions are the same. Most ppl can access heat shinks easier than rubber tape.
I enjoy watching you work, doing it the right way. I would hire you immediately just from what I have seen so far. But one thing scared the heck out of me. When I saw you hold a hot wire in each hand and plug them into that socket, I cringed. At the very least, just plug the first one in and let it go, then the second one to test. But the safest, and a pretty easy way to do it is put a 230 volt disconnect before your socket. Then you can plug them both in, and turn on the power safely without you touching anything. Stay safe, sir.
You're nominated for top brainless comment!!! YOU WIN!!!!
@Utubegofukurself I like your username.
Going to your fracking videos right now and I Sunscribed!
Thanks for the informational video.
One thing I noted, was the installation of the pipe clamps should be opposite directions....
To be even more of a perfectionist, you could stagger your wire splices. It might not make much of a difference, but it would sure be cool looking.
Safer too
Right up until you put it into the ground…
Hey there. I like your videos. Wish mine was as simple but up north in Maine things are different. We have steel casing, have to have a pitiless adapter and my well is 600’ deep- still didn’t have much water so it was hydro fractured- now have 1.5 gpm and the water level is up to 10’ below the surface. It’s less than 60’ from well to where the tank etc will be in the house. I’m capable of doing the plumbing and electrical just need guidance and what materials- size, hp, brand of pump, size of pipe and wire ( thinking of smaller pipe for wire to run in taped to water line?). I have the tools and skills just need advice. Thanks
Good morning!
Just purchased property with a well with no pump. Looking to get water flowing quickly and as inexpensive as possible. The well is 265 feet deep. What size well pump to you recommend for a well that size!
I appreciate your information and insight! Thank you so much! 🙏🏻
The boatyards has the same thing in liquid form good stuff
Excellent video, thanks for making this info available to the average Joe! Was wondering, could you use heat shrink tubes (with adhesive lining - it melts around the wires as you apply the heatgun) around the wire connections instead of the water proofing tape, or both? Personally I just wouldn't trust that water proofing tape alone.
I was thinking the same thing.
Been watching and am impressed. I saw u use the rubber tape and couldn’t help but wonder why a marine grade heat shrink wouldn’t be better. It’s water proof and awesome. Check it out if u haven’t heard of it. It has a glue in it that activates when u shrink it making a water tight seal
Thank you for making these videos I enjoy learning this
Thanks!
Thank you!
Great info! Do you have a pump size/specs recommendation for a 6" well 103' deep with a 24' static level? Thanks!
How much watt, volt and amps is pump using and what size wire mm2 are you using?
Why not use those self-sealing adhesive filled marine electrical connectors? Take just a second to shink with some heat and I've never seen one fail... but I dont do wells.
Is there a reason not to use them in a well?
My Well Details: Elevation:320' Well Depth 266' with 4" casing and changes to 2" casing at about 110-120' for the remainder of the 266'. The pump Intake is at 105 feet Water Level 55-60 Feet
right now I have a Hallmark Industries MA0459X-14A Deep Well Pump, 3" (3.3 Max), 3/4 HP, 230V/60Hz/1Ph, 14 Stage, 270' Head Max, 13 GPM Max, 1"Npt.
I have it set a 40/60 PSI and a cycle stop valve set at 58psi.
I am looking to increase my volume of water and was told I should look at a 2HP pump if that is what I want.
Guidance on sizing a pump for more water volume and same or better PSI would be great.
By the way, R.C. Worst (a company out of Washington state) offers some great guidance on drop pipe. In order of pressure, the poly pipe they consider 'lightest duty' with 'most-headache' for anything other than shallow wells...they won't begin to recommend it for anything deeper than 100-feet. Next-strongest, PVC (Schd. 120)...they recommend for wells up to 520-feet (1-inch dia), and also relatively easy to assemble if you use a simple hold-jig, as you drop it. Lastly, for 'ultra-deep wells', there's galvanized steel drop pipe...which is rated to many-thousands of feet. I kept looking at that poly you were working with, and couldn't put my finger on it at first...but I've never seen poly used locally...and even when I lived 'back east', never remembered seeing a well deeper than 100-125' that had a poly drop pipe...once you pass that point, they were always galvanized steel (good for 15-20 years down-hole). I know you're just going on that SIDR 7 rating of 250-psi, divided by the 'every 33 feet is 14.7 psi' value...but a lot of 'deep well' guys will tell you, it will not stand up. Just an FYI.
I'm not sure why some installers wouldn't use poly. Around here wells are typically 150-300 ft, and we use 160 psi poly all the time. I've never ever seen a failure. ALL the professionals use poly here. Central British Columbia, Canada.
Pumps under 300' are typically set on 160 PSI poly pipe in our area. We have pulled a few that were set 500' on poly, but I would not recommend it and i would replace the pipe with SCH 80 or 120 . We service hundreds of pumps a year and rarely find any issues with the poly drop pipe . We have more problems with the buried offset line bursting than the drop pipe.
Poly seems like the better choice period. PVC sucks
I assume you disinfected the pipe and wire that touched the ground. Is that the case/ Any BacT before using the water? Thank you.
Do you have a suggestion on what pump to use on an 80' well that my driller says was pumping 15gpm. The water level is at 54ft. Great video. I've have gained a bunch of knowledge from your videos and am finally about to dive into the installation. Also, if you had a link to the flat 12/2 yellow wire that would be awesome. Thanks so much.
Do they make a pump like your using for like a 10 inch discharge, the well casing is either 12 or 14 with a 10 inch discharge??
As I observed, you made a better choice which is crimping the cable extension to pump. It is better than splicing the cable together. However, joint splicing at the same length is not good and ideal? Although, the use of rubber insulation tape is okay, why not make the splicing in different length?
In general, you made a good job.
I thought you have to put a torque arrestor near the pump. Is it not always needed?
My pumps been in my well for 50 years and still going. Im wondering if i should just replace it or leave it. No issues really. Fills the tank in 30 seconds
2 questions, 1 do you ever recommend removing the plastic check in the pump, 2 do you ever add an additional check up the line?
Just leave the stock check valve in the pump & add a brass Simmons check to the top of the pump. I do that on all my 400ft systems
Is there such thing as a 'helper pump' that would assist the deeper pump since this well is so deep? One placed inline 1/3rd the way down? as the deep pump gets it almost to the top, the last bit is augmented by the other pump? Yes, this would take 2 power sources and maybe add a little complexity but is this a thing?
I understand this video is a little old but thanks for your time and videos explaining things so well!
In marine applications it was found out that many stainless hose clamps did not have stainless screws or stainless of a different grade . Boats sank.
Couple of questions. You used screw type of clamps on the hose barb at the pump. Why don't you a bandit type of clamp instead? I might of missed something did you or do you use a stainless cable to support the weight of the pump and pipe to take the load off of the pipe joint at the hose barb?
Im sure its refreshing to have some led in your water wall
I had a well drilled about 13 years ago, they installed devices about every 7 to 8 feet along the drop pipe "I believe that is what you call it" to prevent the wire and drop pipe from coming in contact with the walls of the well and casing. I notice you don't do that. it appears that it would help but I am not a well expert but I have known wells that have had the same pump and drop pipe for 30 plus years.
Do you know of any pump that can be used to pump water up a 3/4" water hose from a 100' deep well casing where the pump is up on the ground next to the casing? The closer to 9 gpm the better. I have a 2500 watt submersible now but I lose pressure in the house when the pump is running 24/7 into the lake. I was hoping to find a 1000 watt dry pump instead to save money and allow the submersible one to be use for the home only. I don't think running a water hose in the casing would hurt if I cut the metal nozzle off and I have room for it????
I wish there was a way to make my current 240 volt submersible a variable speed with some kind of controller without hurting the pump? I guess the power speed would change depending on needed water pressure. So when I'm filling the lake only and the pump is running 24/7 I could set the controller at say 1000 watts or 40 lbs and when I use water in the home at the same time causing the pressure drops the pump would go back to 2500 watt slowly to fill the tanks until it notices a constant 40 lbs again which it would then turn back down to 1000 watts slowly.
Pressure tank is around 35/75 when I bought the home and I usually run it at 18 lbs constant to fill the lake between rains. I've had the pump running for 2 weeks at a time with no issue and its flowing around 17.5 gpm at 18 lbs controlled with a valve ball I turn half open.
The home own has the water passing through the pressure tank before filling the lake but I wounder if it should be before the pressure tank that way the tank is used for the home only and I can have good pressure to take a shower instead of 18 below?
Might have to go to solar but have no idea about that stuff or the cost, just need to rule out the garden hose first if it wont suck water up from 100' with 1000 watt pump. Thanks
So whats the best brand and size pump for a 400ft well rated at 10gpm ?
No "torque boots?" Was that black electrical tape you wrapped the line with?
I have a shallow well (less than 100' deep) I want to install a submersible pump down in the bottom of my well so I can seal off the casing, 1. Do they make shallow well submersibles, and 2. Do you have any experience or knowledge about its installation?
What are the specs on the different wire I have seen you use. Is it an outdoor wire and what size and jacket type ???
It's interesting that you bench-rest the unit before installation. You do that dry? Just for a moment? Roughly what percentage of the pumps you bench-test are defective? I helped install a pump some years ago, deep, and it was defective. What a major headache it was to pull it and replace with another.
I enjoy your videos. I have a 4.5” diameter well that is 1100 ft deep. I would like to put a pump at 520 feet. Which pump do you recommend?
I like the way you wrap tape every 2 feet. I have had pump people do it every 10+ feet and when then owner wants me to do a specific capacity drawdown test to see what their well can produce. when I lower my sounder down the well if you don't put you tape close together the transducer can slip between the wire and the pipe then when you retrieve it, it can hang up and get stuck and be a problem to get out. I have had to pull the pump a few time to retrieve the transducer. Keep using a lot of tape. I wish you set all of the pumps in wells I have worked on, but maybe you wouldn't like to we have to set our pittless adaptors around 7-7.5 feet.
can I switch my old 1970s jet pump for a submersible pump? 2" bore , 60 ft deep?
Great video and lots of information about how you do things 👍.
How about adding a torque arrestor so that the wires don't rub on the well walls. Also good luck doing what you do in Ontario Canada.
What brand of electrical tape do you use. I have found a LOT of quality variation in different electrical tapes
that rubberized tape will make a water resistent seal and last 20++ years in water? I would have thought something more substantial to seal wires. Thanks
I’ve got a 600 foot well with a static at 272 feet. I have two questions for you. If you don’t mind, what size pump would you recommend and Brand? Also, originally it had poly pipe in it for 22 years and I’m leaning toward using poly pipe. Is this what you would recommend?
Do you think the blue tape is better than heat shrinkable tubing? Thank.
Hi, Are the Motors type ie the same manufacture on both these pumps? or do you have a preference type that you like to use
my well over 400 ft deep has a 1hp pentair pump 3/4 could not push enough water when well was done so he had to replace it .
Wouldnt have 3 wall shrink tube with the glue inside work 100% better?
Hi. Did you use Teflon tape on your check valve connect?
Hello, what size/brand is this pump. I am about to replace a pump. My well and depth are the same as this well. Also my water has never cleared up since it was drilled and my pump has died because it has been working in incredibly silty/clay contaminated water. Any suggestions on a brand of pump that can handle dirty water better than others?
Thank you so much for your time. Great channel!
I was wondering I have a 400 ft well stagnant water level is at 190 I had a pump in there from 10 years ago I just need to know what size how many horsepower how many RPMs do I need
Hello, thank you for making these videos!! I have a 400ft well and would like to install the vevor 3hp 230v 37gpm 640ft to head pump but noticed you said lower gpm is better for deeper wells and I'd like to put it at 380ft like the well in the video. Do you think this pump will work? The hydrant will be just 4-6ft from the well head. Also I was planning to use 10 or 12ga wire and 160psi pipe, is this the correct choice? The pump will be run off a generator a couple times a year at a recreational property.
None of that would work.
Not a good idea to use vevor unless you tight on cash. Still then you'd need #8 wire & 250psi pipe to go 400ft . That pumps not designed for that depth (advertising is not also true).
But yes, to go 400ft deep you'd need a 5GPM pump not a 20-40gpm. High volume pumps are designed to flow alot of water at lesser depths. I just went in depth to another viewer wanting to do something very similar. Others used vevor down deep and keep melting the wires. So I wouldn't advise it. Buy a 3/4 or 1hp. 5gpm pump and use #10 wire . 200psi pipe is good for about 350ft max fyi
@@h2omechanic Thank you for the reply, I really appreciate the feedback!! I want to spend as little as possible so we are going to get a Vevor. The pump will not even run more than 1 hour a year, maybe 4 times a year around 10 or 15 minutes max to pump some water out of the hole. I think I'll just get the super cheap 1.5hp Vevor and drop it down 100ft and call it good. The primary focus is make it as cheap as possible to get water out of the hole.
I have a 2 inch well with a dual stage jet pump. I'm considering going with a 2 inch submersible. It's a 63 ft well. It is at a Florida vacation home and has to be primed with 5 gallons of water every time I visit. What are your thoughts?
Thank You! Love the channel.
That plug situation is 😬. Look up the Cliff Quick Test, they can be a bit pricey and hard to get in the US, but definitely worth it for your use case. It would also allow you to get the pump further from the outlet so it can be tested vertically
I'm in Zimbabwe so this might sound backwards but we always use wire splicing kits with resin on submersible pump connections. I cannot believe that a bit of rubber tape will stop water ingres, especially at depth, other than that our processes are exactly the same, exept we only use galvanised pipe down our holes & always use a safety cable🤔...have to use shear legs to lift them, impossible to lift by hand!...thanks for educating me, love your videos!...come visit Zimbabwe sometime, it's a beautiful place!
I pulled my well pump due to no water once. I then hooked it up and it jumped just like yours did on the bench, then I dropped it back down. It still didnt work because the coupler between the motor and pump broke. Good thing it's only 50ft down.
The output shaft coupler died? That's very rare. Older 90s models pumps had plastic ones. Most are aluminum now.
@@h2omechanic it was steel and looked like a wire coupler.
Need a little help: Im looking to buy and install my own pump for an artesian well that was drilled and lined back in 2003. The notes from the install say the well is 300' deep and had 11 GPM of flow. The ran 100' of PVC and 40' of Steel casing. Can anyone help me figure out what pump I'd be good to run?
Is it okay to install a deeper (400ft) well pump in a 200ft well?
Any damages to the water system, external water storage tank ?
They do sell waterproof shrink tubing.
Much better than using that rubberized tape which can fail over time
I have PCV well piping, I need a new pump. Should I convert to rubber flex hose? The well is 300 feet down.My old pump was installed in 2001. It was a 2 hp pump. What he should be running?
I have 3 wells at my farm pumping into 2 3000 gallon water tanks, so no head pressure other than the well depth. In the heat of the summer i need all 3 wells at peak performance to supply my farm. 2 wells are 500' and 1 is 700' all 1.5hp F&W with control boxs. Recently the 700' well seems to be over pumping itself. It was rated at 7gpm but has always produced around 9gpm and never had an issue for 8 years now. It seems to be running out of water and it will trip the pump protection device. I pinched the outlet valve down to 4.5 gpm and it will run there without tripping. So i guess that one is running out of water.
The one that i want your opinion on is the 500' well and i believe it has a 15gpm pump set at around 380' It was rated at 15gpm but has never been able to produce that much. Maybe 8 or 10gpm consistently. This week it was down to 1.5 to 2gpm. I checked the amps and both legs are between 9.6 and 9.8 so i dont think its running out of water or the pump is worn out or the amps would be much lower correct? Your video made me think that it could have a crack in the pipe. Schedule 140 pvc 1.250" but it would have to be in the casing because there is no sediment coming out of the pipe. The thing is that after 4 days of 1.5 to 2 gpm its now putting out 6gpm. I could use a little help. Any ideas?
Thank in advance, J
Thanks for the information, I am using pump which has outlet 1.5 inch and 11 galllans per minute what size drop pipe i will need
1" would be enough for that flow. If the distance is greater that 300 Ft maybe it would be a good idea to use 1.5"
Aren't you supposed to use those rubber bumper boots so the pipe doesn't bang around everytime the pump comes on?
Torque arrestors!
Not if its a slow start pump
Correction-rubber baby buggy bumper boots
Please put this in your notes.
Thanks
@b4unoit949 Time for your dirty diaper change little girl lol. Go to your mommy hurry..
franklin electric ‘little giant” 4 in submersible well pump.Model is: W8G05S9-32S can you tell me if this pump is a good pump?
Are there any solar powered pumps with an additional manual function? I’m looking for one that I could still operate manually if the solar function failed
My Franklin 1 hp 230v submersible pump is 40 feet down the well and has a pvc check after it exits the well right before the pressure tank. A faucet is installed on top of the well head and only works when the pump is running because the check valve is preventing the pressure tank to get to the facet when it’s not on. Can I remove this pvc check valve? Or does the submersible require it. Thanks
Wealth of knowledge thank you for sharing
So I live in California, about 50 miles from Fresno. My question is why do the local well companies use galvanized rigid pipe for the pump discharge? Why are they not using plastic here???
Would love to see one of these disassembled, when I think of a 1hp motor I think of a baldor type induction motor, (far larger than these) I'm curious to know how they fit 1hp of motor into a 3" or 4" diameter.
ruclips.net/video/VjR0dfcto5c/видео.html
I have a video on these pumps disassembled . I've covered alot of different & random topics, you just have to search thru Alot of videos & Playlists
I have a franklin submersible pump model 15HR22x9-s2 cant find anything on it when i look it up. I was wandering if you could tell me any information on it my looking at my model number? Thanks
I read that pump says 230 volt with 3-wires. Normally 3 wires means two hots and neutral. Is it different for these pumps? If its 230 volts, doesn't that require dual breakers? Confused
Can you do a video on the materials you use? Like where to get the fitting’s and sizes you use.
Great idea! 👍
I have a deep well that is 80 feet deep. At 70 feet I got 15 gallons a minute when the driller hit water. I have a few questions for you. 1st what size pump do I need as far as horse power with a 220 volt feed? 2nd do I need a Brass check valve in the water line and should it be placed on the top of the pumps threads? I will use 1 inch black plastic pipe the kind you have recommended in other videos of SIDR-9 200 PSI. 3rd my cabin has plastic water pipe installed 35 years ago that are glued with PVC cement fittings. What should the water pressure PSI be for the hi low limit switch 20 40 or 30 to 50 as well as a Low water cut off on the switch so IF there is low water the pump does not constantly run and burn itself out. 4th the pressure tank 36 gallon or 20 gallon?
I have a Radon Bubbler, I replaced pump and now it gets pressure and slowly decreases and cycles to gain pressure any Ideas?
Awww...shucks, that ain't nothin'! Out here in West Texas we have wells that go down 600, 700...even 900 feet (deepest I've heard of anyone nearby having one is 1150 feet). You get to pushing THAT MUCH water, you have to 'multi-stage' your deep well pumps...multiple breakers, serious piping, relief valves...almost like 'drilling for oil'...friggin' Permian Basin wierdness! Great video, though...good explanation for 'sane depths'.
In the Past We Used Above pump motor now is submersible , why can i used above pump i am in florida ?
Yep I'm definitely going to get in trouble with my well guy lolol
Great video
I cannot find continuous poly pipe for 1 1/4 ID over 300' - where do you source yours?
I use 1" bc that's standard
I seen a few vids of deep well pumps going bad and have electrical tape in the intake. Is there is better thing to use for wrapping the wires that will not degrade and get sucked into the pump?
Use 3m tape. Not duct & not zipties. Cheap tape always falls off
@@h2omechanic Makes sense. How many years does 3M tape hold up down there?
@@briantheguy1 10-15 years
In my experience, electricians tape looks like brand new after fifteen years. It's icy cold all the time and in total darkness. I used cable ties once but didn't like them: I kept snagging my gloves on them as we set the pump.
I see a durachoice 1 inch Y-spring, npt, 316 stainless, PTFE seal, 304 stainless spring check valve. It looks like a top quality check valve, anything to say about it? Thank you for your video send your time.
Sizing the pump depends on static water level plus distance and rise you are pushing the water.
what type of pipe you use?
Great content.
Question- my well doesn’t produce enough so I am installing a holding tank in my basement. Static level 21 ft, well depth 42 ft. I know I just need a 1/2 hp pump but since I’ll be putting a 3 gpm flow control valve does it matter what the gpm is for the pump?
Do I need a control box with a 3 wire pump to control the pump with a float valve?
Can you tell me how much horse power I need for a 1000’ well
its a big help man..... thanks for posting this
What kind of pump would you use if you where drawing water from a brook and it’s about 30’ uphill ?
subbed! also want to thank you for your nice video's. both wells on my ranch dried up. the one "good" well, that used to put out like 5-8 gpm at 280 ft, finally started sucking water and the pumpsaver didn't work and pump kinda stopped working. i had them pull the 4 1/2" casing and deepened it. static water was at 109' per sounder but i have my doubts how long it takes to get to 109'. i would figure more of a 250' ish working static level. before they started deepening at 280' it was doing about 3/4 gpm. they hit 2 gpm at 340' and it stayed that way down to 580' where they hit hard blue/red granite so we stopped. put 4.5" pvc casing down to 580'. i figure to set pump at 570'. was planning on using 1' sch120 pvc with stainless couplings and 3 check valves. i figure about 470' of water in well so let's say 900 gallons that refills at 2 gpm from 340' and refills at 3/4 gpm higher up. all i need the pump to do is fill up my 2500 gallon black water tank,,,, the jet pump takes over from there to supply house and barn. there is a warwick switch system for controlling water level in black tank that turns subermisble on and off. i was thinking a 1 hp franklin motor with a 5 gpm pump. what do you think? the problem is the 5 gpm pump will out pump the well if black tank is really low. so i either need to change switch level or use timer for pump. thanks for any insight.
Oh nice set up, thanks for the ideas!
Why don't you use heat shrinks like most well drillers here in the northeast? I have never had a heat shrink fail in 40 years.
If the Blue Rubber tape is good for water-proofing the wires, why don't you wrap the clamps with it too?
@alvinboss3672 because Stainless steel clamps (if good quality) do not rust
I need ur help... I bought 2yrs ago a vevor 2h's power pump. My well is 40ft deep n before we had 40 below wind chill I had the pump working. I think it froze up cause we had no water any more. That was about 2wks ago so I'm sure it's thawed out by now but we still have no water. Is it possible that the pump burnt up in that short of time. I don't hear the pump kicking on or off. I flicked the connectors on the pressure system n didn't see any sparks n they are opened up not closed. Is it also possible that we aren't getting power to the pump. Please if u can help me figure this out I'd be so grateful thanks so much Mama Spitta
No spark means the pumps not running.
So either the pump froze & burnt up, or the wire got shorted out.
I'd remove the pump and Inspect the wiring.
@@h2omechanic OK so if wires are ok then how do I tell if pump is fried.... N I'm hoping n praying that it's not. I just can't afford another one right now
What size of black hose do you usually use for the well that type of well?
1:43 can we get this guy that quik connect thing that bigclive uses to test devices that use live lose wires?
I got one that has turned into a 3 day job and still giving me fits
How much money is it for 3/4 pump ...10 gallons a minute cost ...
I was searching for the Simmons brass check valve, I only found the female ends type. Would like to find the one you used in this video, the male thread on the pump side to female threads to the adapter. Do you have a link to buy that part? Greatly appreciated and thank you for great informative videos! Your a big help to all