What Size Well Pump Do You Need? How to install a Pump Correctly
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- Опубликовано: 4 мар 2022
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My five cents - My method for electrical connection/splice in pressurized water is hot melt glue filled crimp on heat shrink connectors. Have a small butane powered heat source with catalytic burner for shrinking when there is no electric power. no need for special tape around the splice. Also use jacketed stranded conductor cable for connection of well pump. I never use 2 wire pumps and always 3 wire pumps because I want the capacitor for the Permanent Split Capacitor motor of the well pump above ground! What makes the pump fail is in many cases a bad capacitor, so when it is above ground you do not have to pull out the pump from the well, just change the capacitor in the control box and you are done. A lot less labor, sure the initial investment for the one more wire down the well ads to the install cost, but in the long run I get out of 'GOULDS' pumps more than 10 years in average. Well head is always protected by stainless steel 55 Gal Barrel with lid where I cut the bottom out - and the Barrel gets grounded with a 8 ft grounding rod and connected to the ground wire at the wellhead. use only PSC motor pumps this way even direct lightning strike damages nothing on the pump since the 3 wire pump down in the well has MOV's. Of course in a competitive marketplace with homeowners on a budget doing it my way may price you out of the market. But you may consider offering this version as an alternative if durability is asked for. Also use a power sensing timer swi9tch at the control box so the pump never runs dry. The moment the low yielding well is pumped out the pump stops and waits a preset time before it restarts. The control box for the 3 wire pump even gets a run capacitor for the PSC motor added. Doing all this gets a lot more mileage out of an install and when lightening strikes you still have running water.
Just want to wish you contd. success your down to earth attitude and knowledge is very helpful and easy for this ole country boy to comprehend as well preform , granted the task of pulling the 110’ submersible pump by hand was quite daunting ,luckily my son-in-law was available as we successfully accomplished the job !
Gotta say it felt good to save the $$$$ by doing this ourselves , felt even better as a 67 year old dog learning a new trick 😉
Again …. Thanks & God Bless
Thank you for making these videos I enjoy learning this
Great video and lots of information about how you do things 👍.
its a big help man..... thanks for posting this
Going to your fracking videos right now and I Sunscribed!
I like the way you wrap tape every 2 feet. I have had pump people do it every 10+ feet and when then owner wants me to do a specific capacity drawdown test to see what their well can produce. when I lower my sounder down the well if you don't put you tape close together the transducer can slip between the wire and the pipe then when you retrieve it, it can hang up and get stuck and be a problem to get out. I have had to pull the pump a few time to retrieve the transducer. Keep using a lot of tape. I wish you set all of the pumps in wells I have worked on, but maybe you wouldn't like to we have to set our pittless adaptors around 7-7.5 feet.
Tech tip for when you finish your tape job it a zip tie so the end will never peel off. I’d use this technique for the water proof connections.
I'm in north Texas and 550-600 ft wells with pumps at 400-440 ft down use pvc pipe. My original pump that supplies house and watered horses and cattle lasted 22 yrs and my well has some silt. Replacement is filling a 1000 gallon tank and a 3/4 hp shallow well pump now is my system. The gpm is 30 instead of 6-7. The 3/4 pump is 2 ft below tank bottom and overdoes its 27 gpm as a result. Water trough filling is wonderful now.
How are you pulling water up from 440 feet? My well is 550ft and pump is at 440 feet. 5 hp with 3 wire pump and franklin control box.
The boatyards has the same thing in liquid form good stuff
Great video
I have 3 wells at my farm pumping into 2 3000 gallon water tanks, so no head pressure other than the well depth. In the heat of the summer i need all 3 wells at peak performance to supply my farm. 2 wells are 500' and 1 is 700' all 1.5hp F&W with control boxs. Recently the 700' well seems to be over pumping itself. It was rated at 7gpm but has always produced around 9gpm and never had an issue for 8 years now. It seems to be running out of water and it will trip the pump protection device. I pinched the outlet valve down to 4.5 gpm and it will run there without tripping. So i guess that one is running out of water.
The one that i want your opinion on is the 500' well and i believe it has a 15gpm pump set at around 380' It was rated at 15gpm but has never been able to produce that much. Maybe 8 or 10gpm consistently. This week it was down to 1.5 to 2gpm. I checked the amps and both legs are between 9.6 and 9.8 so i dont think its running out of water or the pump is worn out or the amps would be much lower correct? Your video made me think that it could have a crack in the pipe. Schedule 140 pvc 1.250" but it would have to be in the casing because there is no sediment coming out of the pipe. The thing is that after 4 days of 1.5 to 2 gpm its now putting out 6gpm. I could use a little help. Any ideas?
Thank in advance, J
Thanks
I appreciate watching true professionals doing their jobs.
He's not a proffesoinal by any stretch. Watching this video gave me a headache
What professional runs a dry pump to make sure it works??
"True professional" lol
Amazing video
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Hi sir, very educating Video!
May I ask what is the best PSI for a 1hp, 7GPM at 150ft?
Yep I'm definitely going to get in trouble with my well guy lolol
As I observed, you made a better choice which is crimping the cable extension to pump. It is better than splicing the cable together. However, joint splicing at the same length is not good and ideal? Although, the use of rubber insulation tape is okay, why not make the splicing in different length?
In general, you made a good job.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Great content.
Question- my well doesn’t produce enough so I am installing a holding tank in my basement. Static level 21 ft, well depth 42 ft. I know I just need a 1/2 hp pump but since I’ll be putting a 3 gpm flow control valve does it matter what the gpm is for the pump?
Do I need a control box with a 3 wire pump to control the pump with a float valve?
Good vid. I'd like to ad my 2 cents though on the electrical connections. I have been using waterproof heat shrink connectors in the marine business for years. Just crimp and heat shrink with a heat gun small torch. You could of course still add the tape afterwards but not really necessary.
They are much more reliable than tape. They have a hot melt adhesive on the inside of the tubing.
I like using them on my stuff as well. Little suckers are expensive though! They are heat/epoxy Resin that helps seal the connection. The truth is, my Well connections never go bad, I believe bc they don't see air. In 30+ years of doing these, we've never had one fail. But not all conditions are the same. Most ppl can access heat shinks easier than rubber tape.
I was searching for the Simmons brass check valve, I only found the female ends type. Would like to find the one you used in this video, the male thread on the pump side to female threads to the adapter. Do you have a link to buy that part? Greatly appreciated and thank you for great informative videos! Your a big help to all
I enjoy your videos. I have a 4.5” diameter well that is 1100 ft deep. I would like to put a pump at 520 feet. Which pump do you recommend?
My Well Details: Elevation:320' Well Depth 266' with 4" casing and changes to 2" casing at about 110-120' for the remainder of the 266'. The pump Intake is at 105 feet Water Level 55-60 Feet
right now I have a Hallmark Industries MA0459X-14A Deep Well Pump, 3" (3.3 Max), 3/4 HP, 230V/60Hz/1Ph, 14 Stage, 270' Head Max, 13 GPM Max, 1"Npt.
I have it set a 40/60 PSI and a cycle stop valve set at 58psi.
I am looking to increase my volume of water and was told I should look at a 2HP pump if that is what I want.
Guidance on sizing a pump for more water volume and same or better PSI would be great.
I have a 2 inch well with a dual stage jet pump. I'm considering going with a 2 inch submersible. It's a 63 ft well. It is at a Florida vacation home and has to be primed with 5 gallons of water every time I visit. What are your thoughts?
Thank You! Love the channel.
Couple of questions. You used screw type of clamps on the hose barb at the pump. Why don't you a bandit type of clamp instead? I might of missed something did you or do you use a stainless cable to support the weight of the pump and pipe to take the load off of the pipe joint at the hose barb?
Is there such thing as a 'helper pump' that would assist the deeper pump since this well is so deep? One placed inline 1/3rd the way down? as the deep pump gets it almost to the top, the last bit is augmented by the other pump? Yes, this would take 2 power sources and maybe add a little complexity but is this a thing?
I understand this video is a little old but thanks for your time and videos explaining things so well!
I enjoy watching you work, doing it the right way. I would hire you immediately just from what I have seen so far. But one thing scared the heck out of me. When I saw you hold a hot wire in each hand and plug them into that socket, I cringed. At the very least, just plug the first one in and let it go, then the second one to test. But the safest, and a pretty easy way to do it is put a 230 volt disconnect before your socket. Then you can plug them both in, and turn on the power safely without you touching anything. Stay safe, sir.
You're nominated for top brainless comment!!! YOU WIN!!!!
Thanks for the information, I am using pump which has outlet 1.5 inch and 11 galllans per minute what size drop pipe i will need
It's interesting that you bench-rest the unit before installation. You do that dry? Just for a moment? Roughly what percentage of the pumps you bench-test are defective? I helped install a pump some years ago, deep, and it was defective. What a major headache it was to pull it and replace with another.
Hi. Did you use Teflon tape on your check valve connect?
Awww...shucks, that ain't nothin'! Out here in West Texas we have wells that go down 600, 700...even 900 feet (deepest I've heard of anyone nearby having one is 1150 feet). You get to pushing THAT MUCH water, you have to 'multi-stage' your deep well pumps...multiple breakers, serious piping, relief valves...almost like 'drilling for oil'...friggin' Permian Basin wierdness! Great video, though...good explanation for 'sane depths'.
What size of black hose do you usually use for the well that type of well?
What kind of pump would you use if you where drawing water from a brook and it’s about 30’ uphill ?
I'm in Zimbabwe so this might sound backwards but we always use wire splicing kits with resin on submersible pump connections. I cannot believe that a bit of rubber tape will stop water ingres, especially at depth, other than that our processes are exactly the same, exept we only use galvanised pipe down our holes & always use a safety cable🤔...have to use shear legs to lift them, impossible to lift by hand!...thanks for educating me, love your videos!...come visit Zimbabwe sometime, it's a beautiful place!
subbed! also want to thank you for your nice video's. both wells on my ranch dried up. the one "good" well, that used to put out like 5-8 gpm at 280 ft, finally started sucking water and the pumpsaver didn't work and pump kinda stopped working. i had them pull the 4 1/2" casing and deepened it. static water was at 109' per sounder but i have my doubts how long it takes to get to 109'. i would figure more of a 250' ish working static level. before they started deepening at 280' it was doing about 3/4 gpm. they hit 2 gpm at 340' and it stayed that way down to 580' where they hit hard blue/red granite so we stopped. put 4.5" pvc casing down to 580'. i figure to set pump at 570'. was planning on using 1' sch120 pvc with stainless couplings and 3 check valves. i figure about 470' of water in well so let's say 900 gallons that refills at 2 gpm from 340' and refills at 3/4 gpm higher up. all i need the pump to do is fill up my 2500 gallon black water tank,,,, the jet pump takes over from there to supply house and barn. there is a warwick switch system for controlling water level in black tank that turns subermisble on and off. i was thinking a 1 hp franklin motor with a 5 gpm pump. what do you think? the problem is the 5 gpm pump will out pump the well if black tank is really low. so i either need to change switch level or use timer for pump. thanks for any insight.
Oh nice set up, thanks for the ideas!
Do you think the blue tape is better than heat shrinkable tubing? Thank.
Are there any solar powered pumps with an additional manual function? I’m looking for one that I could still operate manually if the solar function failed
Excellent video, thanks for making this info available to the average Joe! Was wondering, could you use heat shrink tubes (with adhesive lining - it melts around the wires as you apply the heatgun) around the wire connections instead of the water proofing tape, or both? Personally I just wouldn't trust that water proofing tape alone.
I was thinking the same thing.
By the way, R.C. Worst (a company out of Washington state) offers some great guidance on drop pipe. In order of pressure, the poly pipe they consider 'lightest duty' with 'most-headache' for anything other than shallow wells...they won't begin to recommend it for anything deeper than 100-feet. Next-strongest, PVC (Schd. 120)...they recommend for wells up to 520-feet (1-inch dia), and also relatively easy to assemble if you use a simple hold-jig, as you drop it. Lastly, for 'ultra-deep wells', there's galvanized steel drop pipe...which is rated to many-thousands of feet. I kept looking at that poly you were working with, and couldn't put my finger on it at first...but I've never seen poly used locally...and even when I lived 'back east', never remembered seeing a well deeper than 100-125' that had a poly drop pipe...once you pass that point, they were always galvanized steel (good for 15-20 years down-hole). I know you're just going on that SIDR 7 rating of 250-psi, divided by the 'every 33 feet is 14.7 psi' value...but a lot of 'deep well' guys will tell you, it will not stand up. Just an FYI.
I'm not sure why some installers wouldn't use poly. Around here wells are typically 150-300 ft, and we use 160 psi poly all the time. I've never ever seen a failure. ALL the professionals use poly here. Central British Columbia, Canada.
Pumps under 300' are typically set on 160 PSI poly pipe in our area. We have pulled a few that were set 500' on poly, but I would not recommend it and i would replace the pipe with SCH 80 or 120 . We service hundreds of pumps a year and rarely find any issues with the poly drop pipe . We have more problems with the buried offset line bursting than the drop pipe.
Poly seems like the better choice period. PVC sucks
Hello, what size/brand is this pump. I am about to replace a pump. My well and depth are the same as this well. Also my water has never cleared up since it was drilled and my pump has died because it has been working in incredibly silty/clay contaminated water. Any suggestions on a brand of pump that can handle dirty water better than others?
Thank you so much for your time. Great channel!
Hi, Are the Motors type ie the same manufacture on both these pumps? or do you have a preference type that you like to use
I had a well drilled about 13 years ago, they installed devices about every 7 to 8 feet along the drop pipe "I believe that is what you call it" to prevent the wire and drop pipe from coming in contact with the walls of the well and casing. I notice you don't do that. it appears that it would help but I am not a well expert but I have known wells that have had the same pump and drop pipe for 30 plus years.
Do they make a pump like your using for like a 10 inch discharge, the well casing is either 12 or 14 with a 10 inch discharge??
Man am I glad I found your channel. You've actually saved my life. I am currently in the need to replace my deep well pump (345 feet). I have confidence now after watching a ton of your videos. I just have a few questions, if you have the time to answer.
As stated above, my "well info plate" states that my well is at 345 feet. Casing depth is 58 feet and 6 inch in diameter. No static water level info is provided on the plate. It states that the yield is 20 GPM.
I've counted all my fixtures (sinks, tubs, toilets, outside faucets, dishwasher, and washing machine) and have a total of 19.
With the above information, would it be possible for you to recommend a proper size well pump and pressure tank? I was thinking of up sizing my pressure tank in the 30 - 45 gallon range. I'm limited by height in my well enclosure to 46 1/4" so i'm still researching the right tank.
Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated. I'm located in the mountains of western NC. Thanks
What brand of electrical tape do you use. I have found a LOT of quality variation in different electrical tapes
I thought you have to put a torque arrestor near the pump. Is it not always needed?
I have a franklin submersible pump model 15HR22x9-s2 cant find anything on it when i look it up. I was wandering if you could tell me any information on it my looking at my model number? Thanks
I have PCV well piping, I need a new pump. Should I convert to rubber flex hose? The well is 300 feet down.My old pump was installed in 2001. It was a 2 hp pump. What he should be running?
What are the specs on the different wire I have seen you use. Is it an outdoor wire and what size and jacket type ???
Is it okay to install a deeper (400ft) well pump in a 200ft well?
Any damages to the water system, external water storage tank ?
How much watt, volt and amps is pump using and what size wire mm2 are you using?
can I switch my old 1970s jet pump for a submersible pump? 2" bore , 60 ft deep?
Can you do a video on the materials you use? Like where to get the fitting’s and sizes you use.
Great idea! 👍
Hey what’s up man love your videos your spreading knowledge and the people appreciate it 👍🏾. What’s your thought on solar well pumps ? Have you ever installed one? I’m in Cali with plenty of sun and want to stay off grid. Thanks in advance
Solars are tough. You basically create a water tower type of system with a solar pump. They work very slow. But they work good for live stock. But its not gonna work like a normal system where the tank is 20 gallons & you have nice pressure.
Solar gives you about 3 gpm pump it to a tank 250gall and have it on a high elevation so it can gravity feed to the house.
@@h2omechanic can you pump it to like a 5000 gallon tank and then from there use another pump to pump it to the house so it has pressure?
Yes.
My Franklin 1 hp 230v submersible pump is 40 feet down the well and has a pvc check after it exits the well right before the pressure tank. A faucet is installed on top of the well head and only works when the pump is running because the check valve is preventing the pressure tank to get to the facet when it’s not on. Can I remove this pvc check valve? Or does the submersible require it. Thanks
No "torque boots?" Was that black electrical tape you wrapped the line with?
Another excellent video. Thanks. Question: does adding a second check valve on the pump increase the odds of a failure years down the line?
I was wondering the same thing. I still like the video!
Not really. If I install a pump at 400ft then I'd add an extra check valve.
Certain brand pumps run different check valves. I've had them fail, & I move away from said brand. Simmons made a pump a few years ago & its internal check valve would actually unspin itself. Horrible design, so I stopped using those pumps.
To be even more of a perfectionist, you could stagger your wire splices. It might not make much of a difference, but it would sure be cool looking.
Safer too
Right up until you put it into the ground…
I was wondering I have a 400 ft well stagnant water level is at 190 I had a pump in there from 10 years ago I just need to know what size how many horsepower how many RPMs do I need
Would love to see one of these disassembled, when I think of a 1hp motor I think of a baldor type induction motor, (far larger than these) I'm curious to know how they fit 1hp of motor into a 3" or 4" diameter.
ruclips.net/video/VjR0dfcto5c/видео.html
I have a video on these pumps disassembled . I've covered alot of different & random topics, you just have to search thru Alot of videos & Playlists
How about adding a torque arrestor so that the wires don't rub on the well walls. Also good luck doing what you do in Ontario Canada.
franklin electric ‘little giant” 4 in submersible well pump.Model is: W8G05S9-32S can you tell me if this pump is a good pump?
that rubberized tape will make a water resistent seal and last 20++ years in water? I would have thought something more substantial to seal wires. Thanks
2 questions, 1 do you ever recommend removing the plastic check in the pump, 2 do you ever add an additional check up the line?
Just leave the stock check valve in the pump & add a brass Simmons check to the top of the pump. I do that on all my 400ft systems
I read that pump says 230 volt with 3-wires. Normally 3 wires means two hots and neutral. Is it different for these pumps? If its 230 volts, doesn't that require dual breakers? Confused
That well is for sure deep 50 feet here in Ireland would be considered deep
I really like watching you work, you make everything look very easy I hope you can help me, my well pump went out, my well is 30' away from my house a 60psi and 400,head and with all these lying websites I don't know what pump to buy could you recommend me a pump and where to buy it from I greatly appreciated
You need a 1hp 5 GPM pump. 5 gpm is key! 2 wire or 3 wire. I prefer 2 wire pumps. Try getting a Goulds, J-Class, or Grundfos.
We install 3/4hp. 5 gpm pumps ( j-class brand) at 400ft. If available, buy the Stainless steel Head type.
I have a Radon Bubbler, I replaced pump and now it gets pressure and slowly decreases and cycles to gain pressure any Ideas?
So I live in California, about 50 miles from Fresno. My question is why do the local well companies use galvanized rigid pipe for the pump discharge? Why are they not using plastic here???
In the Past We Used Above pump motor now is submersible , why can i used above pump i am in florida ?
Great video ,
Have you ever used a submersible pump in a lake say for a cottage etc. If so what pump would you recommend (I'm in Canada if that makes a diff). I've seen you video on Amazon Hallmark pumps so I've written those off. Cheers
AB, fellow Canadian here. If this is just for seasonal use at your cottage, consider an inexpensive 1/2 hp pump from Home Hardware. It's made by Red Lion out of the U.S., has a good Franklin Electric motor and seems to stand up well. Mine lasted twelve years (full years, not just seasonal), not bad for only a $450 investment. I just installed another one at our local Community Hall.
This is an amazing answer as that's exactly what I bought and installed. I got a 1/2 hp 12gpm submersible and made myself a stand. It's in the lake now! I also ran an internal line self regulating heat trace in the hopes I can have running water this winter!
Thanks for reassurance
Can you tell me how much horse power I need for a 1000’ well
1:43 can we get this guy that quik connect thing that bigclive uses to test devices that use live lose wires?
They do sell waterproof shrink tubing.
Much better than using that rubberized tape which can fail over time
Hi ! Gr8 Video ! And I have a Question.... My artesien well is about 350 deep... and I need to replace the pump.... So, is a Franklin 1HP 10 GPM a Good replacement? Thanks! :)
350ft. I'd recommend a 7gpm pump not a 10. If your wire is #10 then a 1hp is fine. If you have #12 wire, buy a 3/4hp 7gpm pump. I sell them on my website. Listed in the video description box
How much money is it for 3/4 pump ...10 gallons a minute cost ...
Hello, thank you for making these videos!! I have a 400ft well and would like to install the vevor 3hp 230v 37gpm 640ft to head pump but noticed you said lower gpm is better for deeper wells and I'd like to put it at 380ft like the well in the video. Do you think this pump will work? The hydrant will be just 4-6ft from the well head. Also I was planning to use 10 or 12ga wire and 160psi pipe, is this the correct choice? The pump will be run off a generator a couple times a year at a recreational property.
None of that would work.
Not a good idea to use vevor unless you tight on cash. Still then you'd need #8 wire & 250psi pipe to go 400ft . That pumps not designed for that depth (advertising is not also true).
But yes, to go 400ft deep you'd need a 5GPM pump not a 20-40gpm. High volume pumps are designed to flow alot of water at lesser depths. I just went in depth to another viewer wanting to do something very similar. Others used vevor down deep and keep melting the wires. So I wouldn't advise it. Buy a 3/4 or 1hp. 5gpm pump and use #10 wire . 200psi pipe is good for about 350ft max fyi
@@h2omechanic Thank you for the reply, I really appreciate the feedback!! I want to spend as little as possible so we are going to get a Vevor. The pump will not even run more than 1 hour a year, maybe 4 times a year around 10 or 15 minutes max to pump some water out of the hole. I think I'll just get the super cheap 1.5hp Vevor and drop it down 100ft and call it good. The primary focus is make it as cheap as possible to get water out of the hole.
Aren't you supposed to use those rubber bumper boots so the pipe doesn't bang around everytime the pump comes on?
Torque arrestors!
Not if its a slow start pump
As my only talent is to admire the talents of others I have a question,
I want to buy a water pump to send it to my home town, but we don't have wells there, we only have small streams, and small ponds like the size of a small pool, and I want to pump water 500 feet uphill where my cabin is, which water pump do I have to buy? thank you so much
Great video! I had a few questions. The pipe is one inch poly 160psi? You installed a 3/4 HP 5gpm pump?
I noticed no other check valves, torque arrestor, or wire spacing rings. Just trying to learn. Thanks!
I only add another check valve if the pump is set at 400ft. I don't use tq arrestor or rings. They cause more issues than they help. (Unless a well is rough & crooked). I use 200psi pipe normally now. Old 160 is equal to new 200psi pipe. 5gpm 3/4 goes to 400ft. A 7gpm 3/4 goes to 300ft. 10gpm=200ft.
Most important thing is to tape the wire to the pipe every 3-4ft.
If you go with 1 Hp and 5 gallons per Minute,would it Make a Diferece on PerformancePoint O What You can Tell Me . Thanks For Your videos And I'm new in Your channel
A 1hp 5gpm is good for a 400ft pump set depth. Depending upon where you set a pump will determine what size you'd need. None will perform Better, but some could underperform if set too deep, past what they're designed for.
You should always let the tap relax and then cut with a knife. It will start peeling back pulling it until it snaps every single time.
How much solar is required
This was very informative, but you skipped that "installing!" I have a 500' well, and would like to see how such a long pump/pipe is actually lowered. Basically, I'm really worried the whole mess will run away from me and crash to the bottom....
I pulled my well pump due to no water once. I then hooked it up and it jumped just like yours did on the bench, then I dropped it back down. It still didnt work because the coupler between the motor and pump broke. Good thing it's only 50ft down.
The output shaft coupler died? That's very rare. Older 90s models pumps had plastic ones. Most are aluminum now.
@@h2omechanic it was steel and looked like a wire coupler.
Yours not bad.
which brand is it ?
Hello, thanks for all your informative videos. I am new to wells but we recently purchased a property with a 205' well, 157' to water-no pump, just 6'' casing. I recently had it inspected and they used a 20 gpm 1 hp pump, pump test depth was 180'. The flow was 15 gpm, static held at 165' for one hour. Flow test yielded over 900 gallons. First question, how would you intemperate this report? Second, what setup would you recommend for a no pressure system, running off a generator? Mainly the size and brand of pump, depth, hose, cap and above ground. I plan to fill a non pressurized tank in the summer and would also like be able remove the faucet and cap it in the winter- If that is even possible.. Thanks again, keep up the good work.
I'd run a 5gpm 3/4hp pump at 190ft. 5gpm pump will supply around 9-10gpm easily at that depth & the 3/4hp motor is easier on a generator.
@@h2omechanic Thank you so much! This one? Goulds 5GS07412CL, 5GPM, 3/4HP, 230V, 3 Wire, 4" Stainless Steel Submersible Well Pump.
@@chrismcdougall7399 I prefer the 2 wire pumps. It does away with the control box. & uses 12-2 wire not 12-3. But the rest is Good!
@@h2omechanic doesn’t having a three wire pump protect against lighting strike damaging the pump?
@@soundrew Yes, it did with my pump!
What kind of wire is that?
How do you precheck a 3 wire pump? Which wires should you touch to power to see if it spins?
Those require you to wire up the control box.
Temporarily wire the pump to the control box, then apply power to the input terminals of that box.
What pump would you suggest for a 4" 2hp 3 wire and best place to purchase? Well is 125 feet deep. Thank you your videos they are very helpful
Not sure why you'd need a 2hp for a 125ft well.
But assuming it's for household use, I'd recommend buying a 3" Grundfos SQ 3/4hp 10gpm 200series
@@h2omechanic Sorry if I am posting this comment in the wrong area. I have a old 3"ID Casing well probably over 50 years old. It was using a 1 hpMyers (HCM100)jet pump, which the motor has just burned up due to rusted out foot valve. I have watched your videos on jet pumps. I am trying to get a submersible pump 2 wire to replace it. The well bottoms out at 59 feet. What pump would you recommend to use with this well? I know that the pump's diameter needs to be less than 3" due to the casing size. I am sure this is a shot in the dark, but I hate to have a new well drilled. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
@@ruarkj123 I believe that you have to stick with a jet pump unfortunately. 4" wells are the minimum for submersible pumps.
You can email Grundfos & ask if their SQ 3" pump will fit inside 3" casing.
@@h2omechanic Thanks. That is what I was afraid of. You do awesome job making videos. You are teaching a lot.
They sell heat shrink wire splice tubes. Crimp, heat and then a silicone oozes out when heat is applied. The job he did in this video took no short cuts and was done correctly IMHO.
Yes, everything is listed in the video description box to help guide others to the correct/ quality product
I see a durachoice 1 inch Y-spring, npt, 316 stainless, PTFE seal, 304 stainless spring check valve. It looks like a top quality check valve, anything to say about it? Thank you for your video send your time.
Why don't you use heat shrinks like most well drillers here in the northeast? I have never had a heat shrink fail in 40 years.
Have a well 200 feet deep that never had a pump in it how big pump should I use ?
I'd recommend a Goulds 3/4hp set at 150ft deep on 1" 200psi black roll pipe. 12-2 wire. 2 wire pump. 20 gal tank
What would you recommend for pump size, pipe size and at what level I should set the pump for a well that is
drilled to 400 ft
water level is at 320 ft
Yield 15 gpm with 0 ft drawdown after .5hours
I'd recommend a 1 or 1.5hp. 5GPM pump. Set at 360-380ft. Check valve at the pump & at 200ft. Preferably set on threaded Stick pvc or special order 250psi black roll pipe.
With such a deep static level, the pump will work harder & the psi ranges will be above 200psi during operation (to lift water that depth)
45psi per 100ft or static +60psi operating pressure
A situation like you have is best to call in a pump company who has a crane. Your system will weigh around 400lbs. Too heavy to do by hand.
@@h2omechanic it’s a new install.
I seen a few vids of deep well pumps going bad and have electrical tape in the intake. Is there is better thing to use for wrapping the wires that will not degrade and get sucked into the pump?
Use 3m tape. Not duct & not zipties. Cheap tape always falls off
@@h2omechanic Makes sense. How many years does 3M tape hold up down there?
@@briantheguy1 10-15 years
In my experience, electricians tape looks like brand new after fifteen years. It's icy cold all the time and in total darkness. I used cable ties once but didn't like them: I kept snagging my gloves on them as we set the pump.
I cannot find continuous poly pipe for 1 1/4 ID over 300' - where do you source yours?
I use 1" bc that's standard
So I’m looking at purchasing some flexible poly pipe. The outside diameter is 1-1/4 but the inside is 1 inch. Will that be ok to use?
Well is 400 ft deep and pump should be sitting around 350 ft.
Try and buy 250 psi 1" black roll pipe. 350ft is about the max for that pipe. Also your going to need a 1HP 5GPM pump.
Don't buy a 10 or 15 GPM pump, they won't lift from that depth. So be sure to buy a good brand. 5 Gallon Per Minute pump head is an absolute Must!. If your well makes over 2-3 gallon per minute, I wouldn't set it any deeper than 200ft.
But you'll need to know first how deep it is to the water (static level)
Typically it's 40ft below surface. Other areas its like 250ft+ to the static water level. Lots of variables. Also you'll need #10 wire
@@h2omechanic I was think of use the Advanced Drainage Systems
1-1/4 in. CTS 250 psi NSF Poly Pipe in Blue
@@diyalternation do not use 1 1/4! It'll be WAY TOO Heavy! But The Blue poly is very good pipe! Stick with 1" Please!!! If you went with 1.25" that system would weight 700lbs+ once it's full of water, you'd never get it back out unless you used a boom truck/tractor to do it. I can't stress it enough.
1.25" is ok for 100ft pumps and say a 3hp irrigation system, but that's just for the high gpm flow rate.
Your going to 350ft, your pump won't have a crazy high flow rate bc it has to lift water from really deep. So in theory it's geared Lower for pulling deeper.
Stick with a 5gpm 1hp! Goulds or J-class or Grundfos SQ
@@h2omechanic thank you for responding. So the inside diameter is 1 inch on the 1.25 pipe. So if I go with the 1 inch pipe the inside diameter is .875. I only asking I want to make sure I get the right size INSIDE diameter pipe and fittings to match. Thank you for responding and taking the time. I’m just wanting to make sure I order the right parts.
And I will go with a quality brand pump. B/c I need to water the lawn and feed water to my house. I’m still waiting to get my well drill to find out the final number which makes it hard. But I want to have all the equipment on hand to be able to install as soon as possible.