one of the finest tutorials I've seen cutting segments. Plain, simple but very meaningful tips. Thank you for sharing. Just wish you could ship to the uk😢Regards, Tony.
Nice quick and brief video. Of the segmented videos I've seen, you're the only one that included the tip with the wedgie board, to start with the forward fence for the first cut. Had my lathe about four years now, still a newbie.
That explains it Dave! Ive never done any segmented pieces, because i didnt think i could get them to fit together tightly. I might end up trying it one of these days! Thanks!
Great video. How do I calculate my wood strip length and width to end up with a 24” ID and 25 OD circle of walnut. Are the segments always 22 1/2 degrees?
Some great tips Dave. I just talked about the line on top yesterday but did no mention the one on the side. I stopped using that one because as long as I have the already cut edge toward the blade and line up that takes care of it. But when first starting out both lines will help. You should always use the side of the fence that is away from you so the blade is not trying to push the work away from it. With expensive wood I will hot glue a scrap to the end so I end up using all I can from the good stuff. Glad you put this out as a stand alone video because it clears it up very weill. Take care, Gary
Thanks for watching Gary and thanks for the great tip about hot gluing scrap to the expensive wood to get all you can from it. If I ever get any "expensive" wood I will try that method. :-)
When I glue it I put both pieces against a straight edge. The same side you are using against your fence. I am sure you knew that but thought I would mention it. Anything better than a 2X4 is expensive to me LOL.
Another way to get an accurate angle between the guides is to lift the jig up to the vertical. Place a digital angle gauge on the lower fence and set to zero. Move the DAG to the top fence and set the angle. This is very accurate as long as the jig is vertical and allows any angle to be set. I made my jig from scrap perspex.(nice and stable) Great video as always Cheers Graeme
Great job Dave. You explain the process with great detail. I'm going to have to build one of these jig and purchase your templates at your online store.👍
Thanks for that good tip Dave! 👍🏻 I’ve been cutting some out and I didn’t mark them! 😞 Have more to cut tomorrow and I’ll mark those! Also I’m using your templates!Thank you for sharing!
Great Information.Thank you. At the end I spotted the extra wedge that is on your zero clearance surface plate. I will make use of your techniques. Be Well and Good Journey Richie.
I still keep running into problems where the length of the segment grows as i cut it. Any suggestions on what to adjust? im using a micromiter gauge with an offset block clamped to a fence. digital calipers to dial in length of segment.
Thanks for sharing, Im going to build that jig. I went to your website to buy the CNC wedges but it says your out ? Will you be making anymore? I would buy a whole set if you could make them again. Thanks !!
Where can I buy the sled & the stop? My biggest issue is getting the correct measurement for the stop. I use some weird sizes. It's kinda time consuming finding 2.24 for my stop.
If you had to make another skid, would you do it the same way, or put the twp pivots a bit further apart, so you wouldn't need to knock the two corners off? Or, maybe just knock the corner off the back of the first fence? Also, there is a good reason to have a platform in front of the front fence, but little reason to have an equally big, back porch, behind the rear fence. Symmetry is pretty, but doesn't use the skid area very effectively.
Hi Dave -- Great videos. I'm a fairly new woodworker. Can you answer a question for me? if the two fences on your wedgie sled aren't perfectly symmetrical, even though the angle of the cuts are the same, isn't the trapezoid distorted? Or does it not matter? Thanks - Craig
I am making my third segmented wooden mug (about 6" high, 3-4" dia), or will once I figure out how I want make this one. It is more complicated than the last 2 to get the grain to run right to give it the best appearance. If I can figure out a sled or some better way of cutting than last time, I am going to have a beautiful walnut mug.
Doing some math's on this recently, if I cut 15 segments @ 12 degrees for a ring diameter of 18" that's correct? would you recommend more segments for a larger ring, looking to make planter ends that have a semi circular section and 18" ring diameter would be cut in half and used to butt up to a straight edge, fixed and glued. Would you recommend more or less segments? does it depend on the thickness? only use a 1" thickness stock or would it need to be thicker to accommodate the curve? thanks in advance on any advice you can give, appreciated Gaz
Hi Dave -- Thank you so much for making these videos. I am a rookie woodworker. Can you tell me what the homemade device is you are using as your stop to repeat the cuts that is in the other miter slot? Thank you - Craig
I am still having problems with gaps between the segments. Sometimes they come out and I don't have a problem with any gaps and they work out good. Then the next ring I cut total disaster. Although, I had a problem with the measuring stop moving on me, I have it solved. Could this be the problem? I will try drawing a line on the next ones I cut out and instead of keeping the stock to the inside of the angle stops. Thanks for your time.
Hi there, I am about to try my first segmented bowl, i have watched a lot of how to's and one thing that I am not clear on is the thickness of the stock, on calculator changes the stock thickness per ring size, I understand why, but if i am using 3/4 material for each ring i should be ok Or should I use 1" thick stock, the calculator specked 1.5 " stock so i am not sure thanks
I don't understand what the felt tip line on the inside is for. If you just use the line on the top of the pieces and turn every other one over to have a line, blank, line, etc wouldn't you accomplish the same thing?
You need both lines to make sure when you put segments together they are going the right way. Every other segments should have a line on top AND a line on the inside. Without that inside line you could put two segments next to each other that shouldn't be. That way any error in your cut is eliminated.
So when you cut a segment do you turn the piece over to make the next cut?? I have always kept the piece I am cutting from the same side up with the line always on top. Then I turn every other one upside down when assembling.@@DaveGatton
Awesome information Dave. I have never done any segmented projects. When building the sled, you said something about 4" between the 2 angles. Do you think it would be better to make that 5" or maybe even 6", so that you would not have to cut them straight, and be "safer"? If that makes any sense.
With everyone tapering the ends of the fences to accommodate wider segments, then fighting to keep them from rocking at the end of the board, why not move the fences apart another inch??? Problems solved
Question- If a person is using alternating wood types (say walnut and oak), how is it possible to utilize your your method and not lose the advantage? I'm excited about the possibility that your offers! method
The secret is mentioned but not fully explained in the video. Your angle template could be perfect, but setting the sled up can, and often does set a certain error into the sled as you are cutting on two fences. By marking the side of the wood you cut, and turning it each time you make a cut in the sled, it cancels out the error in the set up of the jig (sled). Another point not mentioned is when setting up the template needs to be EXACTLY 90 degrees to the saw blade. Even a minor amount out can be a massive error when cutting. Ideally the end of the template needs to be on the sawblade when setting up, cancelling errors. In the video, yours did not reach the end of the sled and touch the saw blade. Personally i would remake the sled.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
You can find wedge templates for sale here: www.davegatton.com/my-store
Boy, this video answers the problems associated with getting segments to fit properly. Thanks a million.
one of the finest tutorials I've seen cutting segments. Plain, simple but very meaningful tips. Thank you for sharing. Just wish you could ship to the uk😢Regards, Tony.
Thanks for sharing! I have been doing segmented rings for a bit and have had trouble getting tight joints. Now I learned how to do it! Thanks, Dave!
Wow. Been doing segments for a long time, and still learned something new. Well done Dave!
Nice quick and brief video. Of the segmented videos I've seen, you're the only one that included the tip with the wedgie board, to start with the forward fence for the first cut. Had my lathe about four years now, still a newbie.
Clear and simple explanation! Thanx a mil!
My only concern is that the grain in your segments is not along the axis of rotation. Does the wood chip?
I always wondered how folks made those segmented rings now I know. Thanks Dave.
Thanks for watching Larry. It's really easy to make accurate segments following Jerry Bennett's segmentology.
That explains it Dave! Ive never done any segmented pieces, because i didnt think i could get them to fit together tightly. I might end up trying it one of these days! Thanks!
Thanks for watching Dave. If I can make perfect segments anyone can. It's all about following Jerry Bennett's method of using a wedgie sled.
A valuable contribution for us novice segment turners. Thank you!
Thank You Sir for very helpful hints on how safely make these rings.
Great video. How do I calculate my wood strip length and width to end up with a 24” ID and 25 OD circle of walnut. Are the segments always 22 1/2 degrees?
Thanks, very helpful video. I’m just starting to make some segmented bowls and the guidance you’ve provided is great.
Some great tips Dave. I just talked about the line on top yesterday but did no mention the one on the side. I stopped using that one because as long as I have the already cut edge toward the blade and line up that takes care of it. But when first starting out both lines will help.
You should always use the side of the fence that is away from you so the blade is not trying to push the work away from it. With expensive wood I will hot glue a scrap to the end so I end up using all I can from the good stuff.
Glad you put this out as a stand alone video because it clears it up very weill.
Take care,
Gary
Thanks for watching Gary and thanks for the great tip about hot gluing scrap to the expensive wood to get all you can from it. If I ever get any "expensive" wood I will try that method. :-)
When I glue it I put both pieces against a straight edge. The same side you are using against your fence. I am sure you knew that but thought I would mention it.
Anything better than a 2X4 is expensive to me LOL.
Thanks Dave. My segmented bowl making has been hugely frustrating with fit of pieces.
Another way to get an accurate angle between the guides is to lift the jig up to the vertical. Place a digital angle gauge on the lower fence and set to zero. Move the DAG to the top fence and set the angle. This is very accurate as long as the jig is vertical and allows any angle to be set. I made my jig from scrap perspex.(nice and stable) Great video as always Cheers Graeme
Great job Dave. You explain the process with great detail. I'm going to have to build one of these jig and purchase your templates at your online store.👍
Thanks for watching Tim. I really appreciate it.
Thanks for that good tip Dave! 👍🏻 I’ve been cutting some out and I didn’t mark them! 😞 Have more to cut tomorrow and I’ll mark those! Also I’m using your templates!Thank you for sharing!
Well then! That was truly helpful and a great tutorial Thanks for sharing it with us! You are a rock star!
Great safety tip - thanks for sharing!!
Great Information.Thank you. At the end I spotted the extra wedge that is on your zero clearance surface plate. I will make use of your techniques. Be Well and Good Journey Richie.
Great video very exoplanetary, Thank you for sharing this
I still keep running into problems where the length of the segment grows as i cut it. Any suggestions on what to adjust? im using a micromiter gauge with an offset block clamped to a fence. digital calipers to dial in length of segment.
Awesome Tip. Thanks Dave.
Thanks for watching Robert. Much appreciated.
Any idea when you will have templates back in stock? Thank you for the video.
Great tips. Thanks.
Nice job with some valuable techniques.👍
Very well explained, thank you.
Dave what material do you use in making the wedgies that you sell and how thick are they? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Thanks for sharing, Im going to build that jig. I went to your website to buy the CNC wedges but it says your out ? Will you be making anymore? I would buy a whole set if you could make them again. Thanks !!
Great tips Dave! Hope to be doing this in the future.
Thanks for watching Richard. I appreciate it my friend.
Brilliant. Thanks mate
Thanks Dave, great tips
Thank for watching and commenting Teague.
Where can I buy the sled & the stop? My biggest issue is getting the correct measurement for the stop. I use some weird sizes. It's kinda time consuming finding 2.24 for my stop.
If you had to make another skid, would you do it the same way, or put the twp pivots a bit further apart, so you wouldn't need to knock the two corners off? Or, maybe just knock the corner off the back of the first fence? Also, there is a good reason to have a platform in front of the front fence, but little reason to have an equally big, back porch, behind the rear fence. Symmetry is pretty, but doesn't use the skid area very effectively.
THX, Great tip
Hi Dave -- Great videos. I'm a fairly new woodworker. Can you answer a question for me? if the two fences on your wedgie sled aren't perfectly symmetrical, even though the angle of the cuts are the same, isn't the trapezoid distorted? Or does it not matter? Thanks - Craig
I am making my third segmented wooden mug (about 6" high, 3-4" dia), or will once I figure out how I want make this one. It is more complicated than the last 2 to get the grain to run right to give it the best appearance. If I can figure out a sled or some better way of cutting than last time, I am going to have a beautiful walnut mug.
Doing some math's on this recently, if I cut 15 segments @ 12 degrees for a ring diameter of 18" that's correct? would you recommend more segments for a larger ring, looking to make planter ends that have a semi circular section and 18" ring diameter would be cut in half and used to butt up to a straight edge, fixed and glued. Would you recommend more or less segments? does it depend on the thickness? only use a 1" thickness stock or would it need to be thicker to accommodate the curve? thanks in advance on any advice you can give, appreciated Gaz
Hi Dave -- Thank you so much for making these videos. I am a rookie woodworker. Can you tell me what the homemade device is you are using as your stop to repeat the cuts that is in the other miter slot? Thank you - Craig
ruclips.net/video/-2gFBmXhNFQ/видео.html
Great video, thank you.
Good tips Dave!
Thanks for watching Ryan. I appreciate you buddy.
Thanks for the tips, Dave. Cleared up some questions I had. What happened to your morning Coffee Sessions?
Great video!
I am still having problems with gaps between the segments. Sometimes they come out and I don't have a problem with any gaps and they work out good. Then the next ring I cut total disaster. Although, I had a problem with the measuring stop moving on me, I have it solved. Could this be the problem? I will try drawing a line on the next ones I cut out and instead of keeping the stock to the inside of the angle stops. Thanks for your time.
Hi there, I am about to try my first segmented bowl, i have watched a lot of how to's and one thing that I am not clear on is the thickness of the stock, on calculator changes the stock thickness per ring size, I understand why, but if i am using 3/4 material for each ring i should be ok Or should I use 1" thick stock, the calculator specked 1.5 " stock so i am not sure thanks
I always clamp small pieces to the sled as I pass them into the blade
Thanks...
thanks for the tips!
Thanks for watching Luie. I'm still getting used to your new channel name. :-)
great job
Thanks for watching Why Not CNC.
Nice video. Your links to your wedge templates don't work.
Thanks for letting me know. I'll check it out and fix it.
Just fixed it. Is should work now.
Thanks
Thanks for watching Tim. Much appreciated.
Verry clever.
Thanks!!!
Very interesting
I don't understand what the felt tip line on the inside is for. If you just use the line on the top of the pieces and turn every other one over to have a line, blank, line, etc wouldn't you accomplish the same thing?
You need both lines to make sure when you put segments together they are going the right way. Every other segments should have a line on top AND a line on the inside. Without that inside line you could put two segments next to each other that shouldn't be. That way any error in your cut is eliminated.
So when you cut a segment do you turn the piece over to make the next cut?? I have always kept the piece I am cutting from the same side up with the line always on top. Then I turn every other one upside down when assembling.@@DaveGatton
Thanks for sharing 👍
Awesome information Dave. I have never done any segmented projects. When building the sled, you said something about 4" between the 2 angles. Do you think it would be better to make that 5" or maybe even 6", so that you would not have to cut them straight, and be "safer"? If that makes any sense.
The other point is to constantly ensure there is no sawdust trapped between the board you are cutting and the two fences.
Your Sawblade is dull. Other than that great tips, thank you!
What do you use the rings for?
With a silly question like that forget about woodturning there specifically designed for wiping you're arse hole otherwise known as you're ring
With everyone tapering the ends of the fences to accommodate wider segments, then fighting to keep them from rocking at the end of the board, why not move the fences apart another inch??? Problems solved
You can make gymnastic rings like this
Question- If a person is using alternating wood types (say walnut and oak), how is it possible to utilize your your method and not lose the advantage? I'm excited about the possibility that your offers! method
I still cannot understand why you need two fences. Why can't you just flip the cut piece on each side of one fence?
The secret is mentioned but not fully explained in the video. Your angle template could be perfect, but setting the sled up can, and often does set a certain error into the sled as you are cutting on two fences. By marking the side of the wood you cut, and turning it each time you make a cut in the sled, it cancels out the error in the set up of the jig (sled). Another point not mentioned is when setting up the template needs to be EXACTLY 90 degrees to the saw blade. Even a minor amount out can be a massive error when cutting. Ideally the end of the template needs to be on the sawblade when setting up, cancelling errors. In the video, yours did not reach the end of the sled and touch the saw blade. Personally i would remake the sled.
What's new here apart from the Add for his wedgies
Thanks for watching. I appreciate your support.
Great tips, thanks