Use some rolls of pennies for weights and use the amount of pennies as a penalty for a WPL Multi Truck Offroad shoot out. like a handicap sort of system, more weight would benefit them flexing in lo range ya? Sweet video thumbs up!!
Good honest review. Surprising. I would have thought the KM would have ate them but the top just disintegrated. Tires will make all the difference. And glue.
That is true. But the truck definitely couldn't find traction. It was more of a struggle for it to move uphill when it got loose. Maybe some cut tires. Take some lugs off to make it more swamper style and it may claw it's way up. Or more speed! 3s muahahha! Lol sorry too much coffee.
Ten out of ten for devotion to duty! Thank you for recording the entire test again - I found every second of this video quite fascinating. The RTR really shone, the kit did very well too and it was interesting to see how the KM, optimised for rock crawling, actually got hung up briefly on its 2-speed gearbox housing and dug its weighted wheels into the soft ground. I did feel a bit guilty lounging on my sofa in the shade while you braved the desert for our education and entertainment, but you did get a very solid and interesting set of results! When I rushed out and bought an RTR B1 I was horrified at the high wheel speed and utter lack of torque. I hope that new buyers whose introduction to RC trail trucks is an RTR WPL B17 will have a far more positive and encouraging experience when they take their new truck out onto the trail : )
To be fair I woke up earlier so it was cooler. If you can call 88 degrees farenheit cool that is hahaha. It's definitely a step up from the old stuff. The new silver gears are the only thing I have no clue of how good they are. Been using the brass/copper colored ones without failure yet crossing fingers. The steel black aftermarket ones have been awesome on my d90 brushless trail truck. After a year no wear to be seen after I regreased/serviced it. Thanks for stopping by!
yup, mine was 20 bucks free shipping from GearBest, so bad they practically gave them away.. #316 gearbox with 130 motor, bang-bang steering, plastic bevel gears... all the early days JUNK! no regrets tho, it was what it was, without that frame to under a C-24 body there wouldn't be a mini drift truck.
@@modelnutty6503 I got a B1 and a B16, but I don´t regrt it because in a way, by buying the first generation ones we sort of "crowdfunded" the development of the magnificent later models. WPL used the cash influx from the terrible first models to develop their product very well and very fast, while fending off plagiarism from Fayee, WL Toys etc.
For sure. When it rained I got the c14 and 24 up it. It's just so dry right now and a previous doable spot needs a winch or tow rope to get up now. That is why I love off roading. The same trail 6 months ago looks completely different now.
1st one, mine was an original RTR with all the disadvantages... #316 gearbox and 130 motor, plastic axle gears, bang-bang steering. beast now with the C-frame and upgrades. they don't need much for wheel weight with the battery under the hood, even a wimpy little 800mah 2S. wheel weights on the MN soft tires is 4 turns 2 mm solder up front, 2 turns rears. its just a little wheel weight to help it flex, and lower the CG just a little bit, not like I'd done my MN D-90. 2nd one did really well minus drive shaft popping loose and wheel falling off at the end. 3rd one those printed rims are offset really wide, tire trimming may have helped a little bit. the "deep dish stock rim" mod, with tire beads further apart the center tread becomes softer so more pressure to the ground at the tires corner lugs, the center tread big dots get pressed up (tread face against the ground going concave), so the corner lugs turn down into the ground more. hard to put into words but when you do a set and clip up a set of tires, you'll feel it! when you drag your finger down+around the middle of the tire.. a little pressure down the center and the corner lugs are turning in+up trying to grab the sides of your finger, weird but pretty neat. sidewalls are nearer vertical and tires stay on rims really well using wimpy old Elmer's rubber cement, is mostly just to keep tires from spinning on the rim. trim the 3 center dots around/down the center, and their corresponding (shorter) corner lugs 2 x 2 mm... there's a line in the face of the corner lugs as guide for some big toenail clippers. soft kit tires trimmed like that on the widened stock rims might surprise ya, but can't expect miracles in loose stuff like this hill peak in the video today. its hard dirt but sandy, always means 4WD shovel time when stuff like that is steep, and the little truck trying to dig itself right back to China! previous video left ya a little more on (moron?!) the 280 motor transplant, my D-90 is SO heavy now it needs MORE POWER for anything steep. it may end up getting the reverse gear setup someday... output shafts turning opposite directions ditches a lot of torque roll, as soft as I go with suspension that's a big bonus.
@@RunThatRC yup, I do as described couple reasons, still have some of the full face near outer edges for less wear normal straight running around, the space between the big center dots lets them bite in, but on the widened rim when they lose some grip getting pushed in+up, the corner lugs get rolled down+in to take a bite. its a peculiar action but it helps. I like the old style tires a lot, wish the tread lugs were 1 mm taller though, they'd be a ton more aggressive after a trim job!
Fantastic comparison video! That new RTR did way better than the first RTR ever could have. KIT seems to be the way to go on soft terrain such as that loose dirt, the KM was way too heavy for that and is mostly suited for pure rock crawling and packed dirt or gravel.
He's baaaaack! I was looking forward to this test, or re-test I should say. Looks like the weight of the KM may have hurt it a bit in the soft stuff. I wonder if kit tires on the RTR would have done the trick? THANK YOU for getting back out there and sharing with us! How would the MN's cope in this situation 😉
I did this trail but not the hill climb parts with the mn models. You can check it out in my playlist. I test 3 mn models with varying upgrades and a c44km.
I did take the mn models there but never attempted the hill climb portion. The videos are not too old so you should be able to find them while scrolling. It's the three MNs and a C44KM I did a comparison on.
@@RunThatRC Ok gracias amigo. me imagino que sera igual en los modelos C-14 y C-24. estoy a punto de comprarme un WPL pero no se cual vercion es mejor kit. rtr. o kit metal.....
Great content.. New subscriber. I like that style. I'm interested in getting a Fayye FY001A with the wifi camera. They look similar to the B14. Do you know how different they are? The one I'm looking at on Ebay has the 7.4V 500 Mah battery, so I think it's upgraded.
I find my B-1 RTR climbs better in reverse. I climbed a 30ft monster hill this morning backwards like a boss after a vain struggle to get up the first 3ft going forward. Im probably going to investigate the possibility there was an assembly error that pulls more amps for rev than fwd on my model
I have had the same issue. It's actually the motor in most cases. The timing is off and is advanced in reverse so it has more power in reverse then going forward. It's hit or miss with these tiny motors. A stand alone esc receiver helps but a replacement motor and crossing fingers that new motor has neutral timing is the fix.
@@RunThatRC re-ran my favorite trail today and the flip&switch didnt change anything. I need axle parts now anyways so ill just order an esc and servo and put my classic futaba magnum sport into it. Thanks for the input!
Can you tell me where I might find some aftermarket tires for 1/12 mn d90 possible? I've tired Banggood and ebay and Geek/Wish. Not sure if you might know of somewhere different?
You can run wheels that fit the wpl trucks and run RC4WD 1" tires or use wpl kit tires and cut some treads off for a more grabby tire. I have no experience with the Rc4wd tires just know people do use them. I use the wpl and mn kit tires and they get the job done.
the Fayee 6 spoke rims and their older harder tires are nice on the D90. about 3/16" shorter diameter lowering CG a little bit, and adds about 3/8 to 7/16 extra width... plus they're a flat/square faced tread, not a round profile, it'll help the model be more stable. they SEEM vinyl plastIKKY at first, recommend bagging them wet with WD-40 for 3-4 hours and flexing them a lot through the bag 5-6 times during.. then wipe them clean and dry, let sit a day before gluing to the rims. grab a set at eBay for 5-6 bucks. you can see how they look on MN D-90 in one of my videos. that vinyl look+feel is more the mold release than anything, when it's gone they're pretty decent rubber. the stock MN-D90 rims and tires are straight off a toy crawler mold, huge inner tire bead, small outer tire bead (junk). another nice option is WPL C34 rims+tires with wheel weights added, "The Higher You Crawl The Further You'll Fall" channel runs them on his MN D-90. they're a stock looking more street tread type tire, but they give pretty good traction for being a small patch larger diameter than the C-14/24 rims+tires. very nice for a stock steel rim look. personally I like having the extra width from the Fayee rims+tires.
Check out the links in the description or go straight to the official WPL RC website by clicking below:
www.wpl-rc.com/?ref=DAVIDCLARK
I should sell a overdrive gear & a underdrive!!!! it would be unstoppable!!!!
Use some rolls of pennies for weights and use the amount of pennies as a penalty for a WPL Multi Truck Offroad shoot out. like a handicap sort of system, more weight would benefit them flexing in lo range ya? Sweet video thumbs up!!
Good honest review. Surprising. I would have thought the KM would have ate them but the top just disintegrated. Tires will make all the difference. And glue.
yup unfortunately some of the fails are my fault lol.
Awesome video! When my boy is old enough maybe ill get him a wpl kit for Christmas- and ill have to hit you up for required upgrades!
That was AWESOME to be fair the first two completely destroyed the dirt at the top of the hill great video!
That is true. But the truck definitely couldn't find traction. It was more of a struggle for it to move uphill when it got loose. Maybe some cut tires. Take some lugs off to make it more swamper style and it may claw it's way up. Or more speed! 3s muahahha! Lol sorry too much coffee.
First... great vid and comparison I thought the kit was gonna make it till it had a blow out 👍💯💨
yup, durn 3D printed rim said "seeya". it was hitting it really strong right up until that moment!
Kit was promising.
Ten out of ten for devotion to duty! Thank you for recording the entire test again - I found every second of this video quite fascinating. The RTR really shone, the kit did very well too and it was interesting to see how the KM, optimised for rock crawling, actually got hung up briefly on its 2-speed gearbox housing and dug its weighted wheels into the soft ground.
I did feel a bit guilty lounging on my sofa in the shade while you braved the desert for our education and entertainment, but you did get a very solid and interesting set of results!
When I rushed out and bought an RTR B1 I was horrified at the high wheel speed and utter lack of torque. I hope that new buyers whose introduction to RC trail trucks is an RTR WPL B17 will have a far more positive and encouraging experience when they take their new truck out onto the trail : )
To be fair I woke up earlier so it was cooler. If you can call 88 degrees farenheit cool that is hahaha. It's definitely a step up from the old stuff. The new silver gears are the only thing I have no clue of how good they are. Been using the brass/copper colored ones without failure yet crossing fingers. The steel black aftermarket ones have been awesome on my d90 brushless trail truck. After a year no wear to be seen after I regreased/serviced it. Thanks for stopping by!
yup, mine was 20 bucks free shipping from GearBest, so bad they practically gave them away.. #316 gearbox with 130 motor, bang-bang steering, plastic bevel gears... all the early days JUNK! no regrets tho, it was what it was, without that frame to under a C-24 body there wouldn't be a mini drift truck.
@@modelnutty6503 I got a B1 and a B16, but I don´t regrt it because in a way, by buying the first generation ones we sort of "crowdfunded" the development of the magnificent later models.
WPL used the cash influx from the terrible first models to develop their product very well and very fast, while fending off plagiarism from Fayee, WL Toys etc.
@@RunThatRC It´s always a pleasure to watch one of your videos.
@@Del350K4 I appreciate it brotha!
Tough run that David,if the dirt hadn't been so dry,you may well have managed to get them over that crest.
For sure. When it rained I got the c14 and 24 up it. It's just so dry right now and a previous doable spot needs a winch or tow rope to get up now. That is why I love off roading. The same trail 6 months ago looks completely different now.
Great video thank you! I have my B14-KM on the way in the mail now :)
I see your getting hooked on these WPLs. They are so much fun.
1st one, mine was an original RTR with all the disadvantages... #316 gearbox and 130 motor, plastic axle gears, bang-bang steering. beast now with the C-frame and upgrades. they don't need much for wheel weight with the battery under the hood, even a wimpy little 800mah 2S.
wheel weights on the MN soft tires is 4 turns 2 mm solder up front, 2 turns rears. its just a little wheel weight to help it flex, and lower the CG just a little bit, not like I'd done my MN D-90.
2nd one did really well minus drive shaft popping loose and wheel falling off at the end.
3rd one those printed rims are offset really wide, tire trimming may have helped a little bit.
the "deep dish stock rim" mod, with tire beads further apart the center tread becomes softer so more pressure to the ground at the tires corner lugs, the center tread big dots get pressed up (tread face against the ground going concave), so the corner lugs turn down into the ground more. hard to put into words but when you do a set and clip up a set of tires, you'll feel it! when you drag your finger down+around the middle of the tire.. a little pressure down the center and the corner lugs are turning in+up trying to grab the sides of your finger, weird but pretty neat.
sidewalls are nearer vertical and tires stay on rims really well using wimpy old Elmer's rubber cement, is mostly just to keep tires from spinning on the rim. trim the 3 center dots around/down the center, and their corresponding (shorter) corner lugs 2 x 2 mm... there's a line in the face of the corner lugs as guide for some big toenail clippers. soft kit tires trimmed like that on the widened stock rims might surprise ya, but can't expect miracles in loose stuff like this hill peak in the video today. its hard dirt but sandy, always means 4WD shovel time when stuff like that is steep, and the little truck trying to dig itself right back to China!
previous video left ya a little more on (moron?!) the 280 motor transplant, my D-90 is SO heavy now it needs MORE POWER for anything steep. it may end up getting the reverse gear setup someday... output shafts turning opposite directions ditches a lot of torque roll, as soft as I go with suspension that's a big bonus.
Taking lugs off the kit tires work great. I may try it for another run up that hill.
@@RunThatRC yup, I do as described couple reasons, still have some of the full face near outer edges for less wear normal straight running around, the space between the big center dots lets them bite in, but on the widened rim when they lose some grip getting pushed in+up, the corner lugs get rolled down+in to take a bite. its a peculiar action but it helps. I like the old style tires a lot, wish the tread lugs were 1 mm taller though, they'd be a ton more aggressive after a trim job!
Fantastic comparison video! That new RTR did way better than the first RTR ever could have. KIT seems to be the way to go on soft terrain such as that loose dirt, the KM was way too heavy for that and is mostly suited for pure rock crawling and packed dirt or gravel.
Totally agree!
If the RTRs just had a bigger motor and metal hubs they'd be amazing tbh
Just a thought but the plastic bushings from the stock axles might be good spacers for your leaf springs
they do work for that and I have done that in the past.
He's baaaaack! I was looking forward to this test, or re-test I should say. Looks like the weight of the KM may have hurt it a bit in the soft stuff. I wonder if kit tires on the RTR would have done the trick? THANK YOU for getting back out there and sharing with us! How would the MN's cope in this situation 😉
I did this trail but not the hill climb parts with the mn models. You can check it out in my playlist. I test 3 mn models with varying upgrades and a c44km.
Nice video. Looks like the kit wins :D
I would like to see your MN's on that crazy trail.
I did take the mn models there but never attempted the hill climb portion. The videos are not too old so you should be able to find them while scrolling. It's the three MNs and a C44KM I did a comparison on.
so with a lot of debate if finally decided im buying the new white c24 kit its on its way right now im super excited😁😁
you will like it. They gave it even more updates.
You should put the mn 90 tires on it. More groundclearsn like a 1/4 of in . I put the on my modend c24 3600kv 2s does 21 mph and still 4wd.
I've seen it done. this is for a out the box comparison so I left them the way they mostly came.
@@RunThatRC you should do one with that tire set up and see if it does better.
Greetings friends. ecxellent comparison ....... which was better in its performance ???
me personally I always prefer the KM versions because all the weight down low makes it perform well in most cases.
@@RunThatRC Ok gracias amigo. me imagino que sera igual en los modelos C-14 y C-24. estoy a punto de comprarme un WPL pero no se cual vercion es mejor kit. rtr. o kit metal.....
I think you gonna trim that tyre a little bit on the km and it's should be more grip to climb with a weight rig
it should help.
Great content.. New subscriber. I like that style. I'm interested in getting a Fayye FY001A with the wifi camera. They look similar to the B14. Do you know how different they are? The one I'm looking at on Ebay has the 7.4V 500 Mah battery, so I think it's upgraded.
I dont have any experience with the fayee stuff unfortunately. They are close in builds but electronics wise they arent the same.
@@RunThatRC Thank you Sir! Cool to see content from a fellow 'Zonie'.. I'm about two hours north of you.
I have noticed that in almost every video of wpl models the tires are slipping off the rims. Can't they be glued on? Or why does nobody glue them?
yup I usually glue mine and intentionally left most unglued on these to show what they do when not glued like I usually do.
You should do this with the c44 km
i did that trail with my c44km just not the hill climb part.
@@RunThatRC Wow, that was a long time ago... I just ordered my first wpl. b36km, v3 electronics with sound. Can't wait for my very first rc kit.
Wpl should make more tyres pattern like the 1/10 scale rc hahaha
I agree. They can make some money by just selling a variety of styles.
@@RunThatRC yep! hope Edward can suggest the wpl boss to make some more upgrading.
I find my B-1 RTR climbs better in reverse. I climbed a 30ft monster hill this morning backwards like a boss after a vain struggle to get up the first 3ft going forward. Im probably going to investigate the possibility there was an assembly error that pulls more amps for rev than fwd on my model
I have had the same issue. It's actually the motor in most cases. The timing is off and is advanced in reverse so it has more power in reverse then going forward. It's hit or miss with these tiny motors. A stand alone esc receiver helps but a replacement motor and crossing fingers that new motor has neutral timing is the fix.
@@RunThatRC what do you think about flipping the axles and then swapping motor wires?
@@doubtmonger7509 you can go that route as well.
@@RunThatRC re-ran my favorite trail today and the flip&switch didnt change anything. I need axle parts now anyways so ill just order an esc and servo and put my classic futaba magnum sport into it. Thanks for the input!
@@doubtmonger7509 no problem!
Can you tell me where I might find some aftermarket tires for 1/12 mn d90 possible? I've tired Banggood and ebay and Geek/Wish. Not sure if you might know of somewhere different?
You can run wheels that fit the wpl trucks and run RC4WD 1" tires or use wpl kit tires and cut some treads off for a more grabby tire. I have no experience with the Rc4wd tires just know people do use them. I use the wpl and mn kit tires and they get the job done.
the Fayee 6 spoke rims and their older harder tires are nice on the D90.
about 3/16" shorter diameter lowering CG a little bit, and adds about 3/8 to 7/16 extra width... plus they're a flat/square faced tread, not a round profile, it'll help the model be more stable.
they SEEM vinyl plastIKKY at first, recommend bagging them wet with WD-40 for 3-4 hours and flexing them a lot through the bag 5-6 times during.. then wipe them clean and dry, let sit a day before gluing to the rims. grab a set at eBay for 5-6 bucks. you can see how they look on MN D-90 in one of my videos. that vinyl look+feel is more the mold release than anything, when it's gone they're pretty decent rubber. the stock MN-D90 rims and tires are straight off a toy crawler mold, huge inner tire bead, small outer tire bead (junk). another nice option is WPL C34 rims+tires with wheel weights added, "The Higher You Crawl The Further You'll Fall" channel runs them on his MN D-90. they're a stock looking more street tread type tire, but they give pretty good traction for being a small patch larger diameter than the C-14/24 rims+tires. very nice for a stock steel rim look. personally I like having the extra width from the Fayee rims+tires.