Just finished my first build, this video is by far the best I've found for installing, thank you so much 🙌 you were right about the boot up sound being the best
Heck yeah! Super happy you found it, and glad you’ve had success on your first build. Congrats! Also, that moment never gets old, no matter how many times you experience it.
You’re welcome! And I’m just really glad to know that it’s helped people. I want to make content that I enjoy, but also that everyone has the opportunity to learn from too. So I appreciate the compliment a lot.
@@EccentricArtisan Well you can put me on the list of people that it has, even your wire management video...just pointing out obvious things that I overlooked because my focus was the bigger picture. I've requested to join the fb group so hopefully i'll get to share the build of mine with you!
@@oldbenkenobi5730 awesome! Glad to hear it! If you haven’t been approved yet, just submit again. I think sometimes people just miss the question and agree to rules part and get declined by default. Otherwise, glad to have you there!
Say another one of your videos where you did QuiGon SSQy I am so glad I did. I’ve seen a ton of tutorials and I don’t remember one of them saying to clean up the flocks with isopropyl alcohol. I never knew that and never would’ve unless I seen your video so I thank you very much for that great tip keep up the great work, man!!
Yeah, it’s not a common thing to worry about I guess. It’s pretty infrequent to have issues from it bridging connections, but it does happen. I’d rather clean things that break them or have malfunctions personally. Glad you have enjoyed the videos!
So incredibly helpful and detailed. I did my first build without watching any vids or help and while I love it, I am a little frustrated with a bunch of bent wires just jammed into the hilt, no PCB, and the button is hard wired to the hilt - a mess inside and fragile to open up again. I dreamt of a chassis concept, and you have demonstrated it beautifully. Thank you.
You’re welcome! I remember my first build was much the same. It’s amazing when you get a build that’s nice and organized for the first time. It feels so rewarding.
@@EccentricArtisan Thank you I need to know where to go in the Chicago Area to get the pieces or online with a respectable place that is trustworthy seems to be a lot of shady companies out there. I got two boys 13 and 14 years old this is all they talk about is the light sabers and how they are going to be the Masters of teaching their younger cousins and siblings. Any help as to how to start this process would be greatly appreciated. I'm old school Star Wars so I'm trying to be Obi Wan or Yoda. Some days I definitely thinking Yoda.
@@juanitadilbeck3874 I’m old school star wars as well, so I can appreciate the parallels. There are a few links in the video description. One is a google document link that contains the main components in this video, as well as links to reputable sellers of those items. I help as an admin of a saber group on Facebook, and there is a link for that group as well. There are additional resources there and a lot of experienced individuals to answer questions. If you or a family member uses Facebook I’d highly recommend joining the group. It’s a great way to get quick answers. I’m always available here, but there are over two thousand of us there which can be a big help in getting thorough answers in a timely manner. Especially on days where I’m disconnected from technology or working.
Hey man! ive been struggling to find a good tutorial for ghv3 for awhile, so tysm! quick question- i plan to install a saber with a single switch setup. How would my wiring differ from yours?
Glad you found it! That’s a very simple change. Essentially you are just leaving the auxiliary or secondary switch off. I believe page 18 of the GHV3 manual shows the diagram for that configuration.
@@bananajesus667 If you are asking specifically for the switches, data line, accent LEDs, or items that carry small current then yes. For low current applications you can use whatever suits you best or what you have at hand. Make sure you have the room to run it if you go with a larger gauge though. And just remember that going bigger than the recommended gauge never hurts electrically. It just takes more space in the build.
i am a total beginner and i have decided to pick the materials you used in your video, but can you tell me if you can change color on that or not? I know nothing about neopixel lightsabers so i really need help
Yes, you can definitely change colors. There’s a lot to learn, and fortunately a lot of information available. Also a lot of helpful people. So my first bit of advice is to watch my blade making video if you haven’t. That will help you further understand the color changing. ruclips.net/video/ObzhJhWChY0/видео.html And I would also suggest joining the Facebook group linked in the video description, if you can. You can ask any building questions you have in there and get pretty quick answers most of the time.
Great build you've done there. Really nice saber. My first build is alot simpler, due to my hilt being just a bit smaller in diameter to a LGT saber hilt, had to forgo a kill switch and recharge plug 🙄, but the battery is removable, and I have a external charger for 18650 batteries. Have one question. My next build is going to be a conversion of a old master replica darth maul saber from 2007, changing it to neopixel, but after watching your video, was thinking of adding a accent led as when the saber is in 2 halfs, the pummel has a exposed kyber crystal so thinking of a way to run a small led to it, to light it up, are they pretty straight forward to wire up?
Thank you! And first builds are usually humble. My first with electronics was an old flashlight. With neopixel, accents are very straight forward. They work just like a very small version of your main blade! You just use one or two individual pixels wired in the same fashion as the blade itself is to the board.
Great video! Thanks for this explanation! One question though, for the Neopixel blade PCB, is it also not necessary to add a resistor, just like the hilt PCB?
Correct. As long as your board has a built in resistor (the GHV3 does) you don’t need to add another. The advantages to having one in the blade, comes into play if you ever use it with another board. For instance, if another saber has a board that lacks the built in resistor, you already have one in the blade. Also, the blade ID function is something that would apply if for instance you used a proffieboard. Then that blade could be specifically recognized by the value of the resistor. The proffie manual and github pages highlight that feature. Otherwise though, it isn’t necessary. An extra resistor on the data line never hurts anything though.
Good question! I have sabers with 1 switch as well that you can see in my other videos. 2 switches allows for a different style of menu navigation as well as more/easier access of some auxiliary functions (blaster block, blade lock, etc). This will vary based on what board you use, so look through the board’s manual for the switch functions to see the specifics for your board of choice. Either option works for most electronics. It just changes the way you control functions. Also, some sabers are physically setup for two switches and some for just one. Though, there are ways to add hidden switches to sabers as well.
@@AlexCorrao Excellent! And you’re welcome! Feel free to join the Facebook group in the description and share your build there! Also a great place to ask questions and access a wider collective knowledge.
@@EccentricArtisan I am in the middle of a personal custom build and have purchased the Golden Harvest v3 phase4 board with a USB seed board. I am going to use two (2) WS2812B 144-LED Pixel Strip and planning for 3 accent pixels. After reading the manual, It states I have to bridge pads 1,2,3 and according to the manual the accents have to be first in the series. Though I can't find if I can wire the accents (Pixels) to pad 4, 5, 6 and possibly split the data line. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. There isn't to much info on the GH boards.
@@marcringuette3622 gotcha. This being out of my field of expertise, as I mostly work with Proffieboard, I am going to recommend asking in the Golden Harvest group on Facebook. If you can pose the same question there you should be able to get a definite yes or no as well as further direction if need be. A couple of my friends admin the group and Frederic Folz, the creator of the board, is an admin as well. m.facebook.com/groups/goldenharvest/
Great video! It boggles my mind just thinking about attempting that. Maybe in the future I'll do this with my accursed hasbro kylo ren lightsaber, the hilt is super nice but who ever designed the neopixel functionality was an idiot lol
I certainly didn’t pull off a perfectly smooth install on my first try about a decade ago lol It takes some learning, but with the right help it’s not as daunting as it seems! Definitely join the builders group linked in the description though! Lot’s of inspiration and helpful people there.
Thank you! The blade and saber were $587 in parts, but that doesn’t include tools or time invested. However, that isn’t an accurate representation of what the current price would be. Inflation due to time and the current health crisis have driven those costs up. Customs like this are pricey. People always say, “that’s too expensive” or “I can get a saber for way cheaper”. And they are right. Darkwolf Sabers is where I send people for the budget stuff, but having very specific custom sabers is a bit costlier in general. Also, there is a google doc linked in the description that will show you all the parts for the build if you want to check current prices!
@@EccentricArtisan thanks! I’m thinking ab building one but without the neopixel effect, so I’m just going to 3D print the saber, and electroplate it en then buy a blade online and put some leds in it. And ofcourse some soundeffects. But it’s going to be my first build, so you have to start somewhere 😅
We all do. My somewhere was pvc and plumbing pipe when I was about 10. I was dying to have these kind of sabers though! Anyhow, feel free to join the Facebook group linked in the description. We’ve got parts resources linked in our announcements, and loads of experienced builders to answer any questions you have. It’s also cool to see people posting their builds and how they progress as they learn.
Thank you for your guide. If I were to do a similar build using tri cree I would have to add resistors, but I couldn't see where you added them here. Where would you recommend placing them for a setup like this and which resistances did you end up with for your specific component? Thanks!
For a neopixel setup you have 3 leads that go to the blade connector/LEDs unlike in-hilt (tri-cree). And the resistor must be placed on the data line, somewhere between the board and the first pixel. How you approach it will vary widely based on the build and components used. For this Golden Harvest V3 there is already a resistor built into the data line on the board. If using a Proffieboard V2.2 there is one built into the data 1 pad, so anything on data 1 will be set. Sometimes blade connectors have a space to put one or come with one pre-installed. That covers it just the same. However, if you are in a situation where you need to add one, the resistance you are looking for can be either of two values. You can use a 330 ohm resistor or a 470 ohm resistor. It doesn’t matter which. Also, if you have one built into both your connector and board or even a third resistor on your blade side connector, that would be fine. Because they are on the data line they don’t affect brightness or pixel function at all. Their purpose is to manage any voltage spikes in the data line that could potentially cause damage or unwanted function in your pixels. You are welcome!
@@EccentricArtisan Thank you for your reply! I'm looking to use an 18650 battery with a nominal voltage of 3.7. However, I know that batteries like this have a standard charge at 4.2 volts. Would I be worried about the 3.7 voltage value for resistance calculation or would it be safer for the life of the components to use the 4.2 volt value for calculations?
@@wieneckejacob4752 My mistake, I also meant to add that you want to place resistors for tri cree on the positive or negative line of each diode. I tend to install mine near the LED but wherever works within the install is fine, as long as they come between the LED and power/board. As for calculating the values, I stick with 4.2 V as it will be a safer way to protect the LEDs.
I’d have to check the build again for the exact one, but I have a parts list google doc linked in the description with several options. All will work similarly.
@@ghosteditz9964 It’s highly unlikely in my opinion, but that’s only speculation. I don’t know the internal dimensions of that hilt. However, you can search etsy for a chassis by hilt name or by the inside dimensions. I would suggest asking for a chassis suggestion in the Facebook group linked in the description as well as this one facebook.com/groups/531427861389790/?ref=share
how reliable are the 3d printed chassis that the electronics sit in and should I get a resin printed one or a casted one or something along those lines
Materials vary greatly, and so do printers and printing processes. However, this chassis is printed in the “versatile plastic” from Shapeways. It’s nylon and holds up very well to regular dueling. As long as the chassis is well designed and printed, as well as mounted properly within the hilt, 3d prints are plenty reliable. Obviously, you wouldn’t want to duel with it exposed though.
Thank you! And as far as grease for threads lithium is generally recommended. Most grease will work okay, but white lithium is relatively inexpensive in small tubes and works great.
You could use everything except the chassis, because it is hilt specific. However, the methods of preparation, assembly, and wiring can work universally. Just apply the same or similar approach to another hilt and chassis. To give you a better idea of what I mean, watch my other two videos on a different saber install if you get the chance. You’ll see I use a lot of similar methods despite obvious differences in the builds.
@@timknittel3552 there are a lot of options out there, and I don’t know what your preferences might be. But I’ll give you a place to start. I haven’t owned one, but I hear only good things about the Flagship saber from The Saber Armory. It offers a lot of space for customization with etching, grips, leather wrap, etc. There is also a chassis available for it from the same vendor, called Flagship V2 Eco Chassis, that will hold the same soundboard used in this video.
@@EccentricArtisan I put everything into my shopping bucket, it is almost 300€ in total. So you recommend spending so much for a do it yourself saber ?
@@timknittel3552 it all depends on how you feel about the money and what your budget is. Everyone will feel differently, but yes I feel it is very typical. Over a decade in the hobby has taught me it’s expensive no matter low budget or high end. I’ve done installs with parts that totaled only $300-$400 and some that were closer to $1000. The saber in this video was over $400 and closer to $500 with the blade. And that’s just parts. Tools, bench time, experience...all those things add up too. Lol, I wish I could say that it was all easy on the wallet, but I’d be a liar. I purchased just a bare hilt today for $500.
This was incredibly insightful and has helped me tremendously, even though in using a proffieboard. My only question would be wether using a lower amperage battery, like 3000 instead of 3120, would be harmful to the electronics. Again, this video is spectacular and it shows that you know what you're talking about.
Thanks very much for the compliments. I’m glad you found it helpful! 3000 and 3120 are actually milliampere hours (mAh) and represent the capacity of charge the battery can hold. And the larger that number the longer the run time, given everything else is equal. So it would work perfectly fine. The important numbers when searching for the correct battery are the Amperage (A) and voltage (V). With Proffieboard you want a 3.7V Li-ion, which will actually have a max capacity of 4.2V if you read the specifications or description. And for Neopixel lightsabers you need to have a battery rated at 15A max continuous discharge current. Higher would be acceptable, but lower would likely cause performance or functionality issues, because the battery wouldn’t be able to supply enough power to continuously light up your blade.
Good question. For this hilt it was a matter of the chassis that was available as well as wanting to leave the exterior of the hilt original. Although you could certainly do exactly what you’re suggesting if it is your preference.
At the time, I believe all the parts/materials for this build were under $400 total. That obviously doesn’t factor in tools or labor. Not sure about now though. Some things have gone up in price.
I remember when it first became popularized. I was initially very skeptical of string blades and then neopixel due to their low durability both in components and installation style. But it’s incredible how far everything came so quickly. And neopixel really is a great option now, even for rough play. The pin connector made everything next level as too.
When talking about lightsabers, it usually just means a switch that stops power from going to the soundboard. Usually either a switching power jack, like in this video, or a slide switch. And because they carry or hold back the power from the battery, they must be rated to handle that power.
@@qiaozhiwu4610 Some people don’t incorporate them in every build, but I like to. If your battery is removable, it’s good to have one that can be switched off prior to removing the battery for safety reasons. But it also allows the saber to be stored with a battery in it for a very long period of time without the battery slowly draining. Some boards have a sleep mode that they go into, but it’s better yet to just have a switch that full disconnects the battery. That’s even more useful when the battery isn’t removable. And if you need or want to charge the battery while it’s in the hilt, the switching recharge port/power jack will provide both charging and power down functions.
@@EccentricArtisan ok so I will get a removable battery but should I buy a momentary switch or the latching switch for the kill switch? And which one for the main switch ?
@@qiaozhiwu4610 this is what I use and is often recommended for removable battery kill switches. www.digikey.com/short/z22c80 And double check with the vendor, but I believe the graflex saber comes with the activation switch.
There are a lot of options for graflex, which can definitely make it more difficult in picking your parts. 89 sabers makes a decent graflex kit for the price. I’ll link it below. Also, how detailed do you want the chassis? Just functional or with crystal chamber and lights? www.etsy.com/listing/596676068/89-sabers-graflex-lightsaber-kit-reyluke?ref=shop_home_active_1&frs=1&crt=1
@@qiaozhiwu4610 you are most welcome! I’ll link a few chassis options for you that may fit your needs. The first supports multiple soundboards and the other two are for proffie. www.etsy.com/listing/989729551/89-sabers-graflex-chassis?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=89+sabers&ref=sr_gallery-1-25&from_market_listing_grid_organic=1&col=1 www.etsy.com/listing/944033831/89sabers-graflex-chassis-for-neopixel?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=89+sabers&ref=sr_gallery-2-2&from_market_listing_grid_organic=1&col=1 www.etsy.com/listing/1001276858/89-sabers-graflex-chassis-only-for?ref=shop_home_active_8&frs=1
@@EccentricArtisan What do u think about this one www.etsy.com/de/listing/990516450/89-sabel-graflex-chassis?ref=hp_rf-1&frs=1&sca=1 And I would take the CFX soundboard
@@qiaozhiwu4610 yep, that one would work too. I have used a chassis from his store previously, and he’s a real good guy. Responds quickly to messages too if you need help with an order.
Correct. There are parameters you can adjust, and there is an online editor. But because it isn’t open source like proffieboard, you do not have to understand how to implement or write code.
I’m not aware of any vendors near you, and I’m not sure what shipping is like from the US or UK. Most of the suppliers I can think of are in those two places. I’d do a google search for Golden Harvest V3 and see what you can find.
Just finished my first build, this video is by far the best I've found for installing, thank you so much 🙌 you were right about the boot up sound being the best
Heck yeah! Super happy you found it, and glad you’ve had success on your first build. Congrats! Also, that moment never gets old, no matter how many times you experience it.
My GoD !! That was in-depth !! Guess I will just purchase ready made light saber. very good video for the real enthusiast of lightsabers forsure !!
Totally understandable. It’s definitely a time and skill building investment. Thanks very much!
I found your video to be both entertaining And enlightening. Some day I might even get the courage to build my own chassis.
Glad to hear you enjoyed it! And I wish you luck if you decide to go ahead with a build!
Really not sure why this only has 3000 views. This has answered many of the questions ive been searching for for a long time. Thank you!
You’re welcome! And I’m just really glad to know that it’s helped people. I want to make content that I enjoy, but also that everyone has the opportunity to learn from too. So I appreciate the compliment a lot.
@@EccentricArtisan Well you can put me on the list of people that it has, even your wire management video...just pointing out obvious things that I overlooked because my focus was the bigger picture. I've requested to join the fb group so hopefully i'll get to share the build of mine with you!
@@oldbenkenobi5730 awesome! Glad to hear it! If you haven’t been approved yet, just submit again. I think sometimes people just miss the question and agree to rules part and get declined by default. Otherwise, glad to have you there!
This was outstanding! Very clean, and straight forward, thank you!
You’re welcome! Thank you!
Say another one of your videos where you did QuiGon SSQy I am so glad I did. I’ve seen a ton of tutorials and I don’t remember one of them saying to clean up the flocks with isopropyl alcohol. I never knew that and never would’ve unless I seen your video so I thank you very much for that great tip keep up the great work, man!!
Yeah, it’s not a common thing to worry about I guess. It’s pretty infrequent to have issues from it bridging connections, but it does happen. I’d rather clean things that break them or have malfunctions personally. Glad you have enjoyed the videos!
So incredibly helpful and detailed. I did my first build without watching any vids or help and while I love it, I am a little frustrated with a bunch of bent wires just jammed into the hilt, no PCB, and the button is hard wired to the hilt - a mess inside and fragile to open up again. I dreamt of a chassis concept, and you have demonstrated it beautifully. Thank you.
You’re welcome! I remember my first build was much the same. It’s amazing when you get a build that’s nice and organized for the first time. It feels so rewarding.
Thank you for all the information I am going to try to help my grandson and nephew build their own
You’re welcome. That is awesome! Feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way.
@@EccentricArtisan Thank you I need to know where to go in the Chicago Area to get the pieces or online with a respectable place that is trustworthy seems to be a lot of shady companies out there. I got two boys 13 and 14 years old this is all they talk about is the light sabers and how they are going to be the Masters of teaching their younger cousins and siblings. Any help as to how to start this process would be greatly appreciated. I'm old school Star Wars so I'm trying to be Obi Wan or Yoda. Some days I definitely thinking Yoda.
@@juanitadilbeck3874 I’m old school star wars as well, so I can appreciate the parallels. There are a few links in the video description. One is a google document link that contains the main components in this video, as well as links to reputable sellers of those items. I help as an admin of a saber group on Facebook, and there is a link for that group as well. There are additional resources there and a lot of experienced individuals to answer questions. If you or a family member uses Facebook I’d highly recommend joining the group. It’s a great way to get quick answers. I’m always available here, but there are over two thousand of us there which can be a big help in getting thorough answers in a timely manner. Especially on days where I’m disconnected from technology or working.
@@EccentricArtisan Thank you
@@juanitadilbeck3874 you’re welcome!
This man has too many weapons.
I like it.
Lol
If only you knew…
I am very keen to to a build one. This was very inspirational, and educational. Thank you, and well done.
Excellent, I wish you luck! Thanks very much!
Where'd you get the hilt parts? fantastic work btw.
Thank you! If you open the google doc in the description there’s a link to all the parts including the hilt. It’s made by OneReplicas.
Wow this is great build and an awesome channel and that is why I Subscribed just from seeing this 👍👍🙂😁
Thank you! I really appreciate the sub and compliment 😊
Hey man! ive been struggling to find a good tutorial for ghv3 for awhile, so tysm! quick question- i plan to install a saber with a single switch setup. How would my wiring differ from yours?
Glad you found it! That’s a very simple change. Essentially you are just leaving the auxiliary or secondary switch off. I believe page 18 of the GHV3 manual shows the diagram for that configuration.
@@EccentricArtisan ok, thanks! I had another thing pop up that I wanted to ask. Will 26 awg work instead of 30?
@@bananajesus667 If you are asking specifically for the switches, data line, accent LEDs, or items that carry small current then yes. For low current applications you can use whatever suits you best or what you have at hand. Make sure you have the room to run it if you go with a larger gauge though. And just remember that going bigger than the recommended gauge never hurts electrically. It just takes more space in the build.
Thank you very much for sharing and taking the time to do this : )
My pleasure. Thank you for the support!
Superb work ! Very comprehensive !
Thank you!!
Love your work!
Thank you!
i am a total beginner and i have decided to pick the materials you used in your video, but can you tell me if you can change color on that or not? I know nothing about neopixel lightsabers so i really need help
Yes, you can definitely change colors. There’s a lot to learn, and fortunately a lot of information available. Also a lot of helpful people. So my first bit of advice is to watch my blade making video if you haven’t. That will help you further understand the color changing. ruclips.net/video/ObzhJhWChY0/видео.html
And I would also suggest joining the Facebook group linked in the video description, if you can. You can ask any building questions you have in there and get pretty quick answers most of the time.
Whether did you get the 3D printed chasis or the files for it?
You can find the direct link within the parts document in the description.
Great build you've done there. Really nice saber. My first build is alot simpler, due to my hilt being just a bit smaller in diameter to a LGT saber hilt, had to forgo a kill switch and recharge plug 🙄, but the battery is removable, and I have a external charger for 18650 batteries.
Have one question. My next build is going to be a conversion of a old master replica darth maul saber from 2007, changing it to neopixel, but after watching your video, was thinking of adding a accent led as when the saber is in 2 halfs, the pummel has a exposed kyber crystal so thinking of a way to run a small led to it, to light it up, are they pretty straight forward to wire up?
Thank you! And first builds are usually humble. My first with electronics was an old flashlight.
With neopixel, accents are very straight forward. They work just like a very small version of your main blade! You just use one or two individual pixels wired in the same fashion as the blade itself is to the board.
Great video! A future project of mine for sure.
Thank you! It’s definitely a very rewarding one to complete. And a big learning experience.
Thanks! I know why it cost a lot now! That's a lot of work!
You are welcome! And yes, there is a lot of time that goes into the creation of these high end toys.
will i need to buy a specific soundboard if I'm using pcbs for a 7/8' blade?
Nope. The connector size won’t affect functionality with the board. CFX, GHV3, Verso, and Proffieboard will all work just fine.
Great video! Thanks for this explanation! One question though, for the Neopixel blade PCB, is it also not necessary to add a resistor, just like the hilt PCB?
Correct. As long as your board has a built in resistor (the GHV3 does) you don’t need to add another. The advantages to having one in the blade, comes into play if you ever use it with another board. For instance, if another saber has a board that lacks the built in resistor, you already have one in the blade. Also, the blade ID function is something that would apply if for instance you used a proffieboard. Then that blade could be specifically recognized by the value of the resistor. The proffie manual and github pages highlight that feature. Otherwise though, it isn’t necessary. An extra resistor on the data line never hurts anything though.
That is the perfect intro
I felt it was appropriate 😄
Just found this and I'm going to be starting my first Neopixel Build! Question, why did you use 2 switches instead of one momentary switch?
Good question! I have sabers with 1 switch as well that you can see in my other videos. 2 switches allows for a different style of menu navigation as well as more/easier access of some auxiliary functions (blaster block, blade lock, etc). This will vary based on what board you use, so look through the board’s manual for the switch functions to see the specifics for your board of choice. Either option works for most electronics. It just changes the way you control functions. Also, some sabers are physically setup for two switches and some for just one. Though, there are ways to add hidden switches to sabers as well.
@@EccentricArtisan Fantastic! Thank you so much. I appreciate the amazing tutorials and information. I'm putting together my buylist now :-)
@@AlexCorrao Excellent! And you’re welcome! Feel free to join the Facebook group in the description and share your build there! Also a great place to ask questions and access a wider collective knowledge.
how much do you charge for building a LS?
I appreciate the interest, but currently I don’t take commissions. Just build or install what I like when I have time.
great video, an update for pixel strip would be nice!
Thanks Marc! And just to clarify when you say an update for pixel strip, what do you mean?
@@EccentricArtisan I am in the middle of a personal custom build and have purchased the Golden Harvest v3 phase4 board with a USB seed board. I am going to use two (2) WS2812B 144-LED Pixel Strip and planning for 3 accent pixels. After reading the manual, It states I have to bridge pads 1,2,3 and according to the manual the accents have to be first in the series. Though I can't find if I can wire the accents (Pixels) to pad 4, 5, 6 and possibly split the data line. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. There isn't to much info on the GH boards.
@@marcringuette3622 gotcha. This being out of my field of expertise, as I mostly work with Proffieboard, I am going to recommend asking in the Golden Harvest group on Facebook. If you can pose the same question there you should be able to get a definite yes or no as well as further direction if need be. A couple of my friends admin the group and Frederic Folz, the creator of the board, is an admin as well. m.facebook.com/groups/goldenharvest/
is there smooth swing?
Yep, GHV3 boards run a smooth swing algorithm and support smooth swing sounds.
Great video! It boggles my mind just thinking about attempting that. Maybe in the future I'll do this with my accursed hasbro kylo ren lightsaber, the hilt is super nice but who ever designed the neopixel functionality was an idiot lol
I certainly didn’t pull off a perfectly smooth install on my first try about a decade ago lol
It takes some learning, but with the right help it’s not as daunting as it seems! Definitely join the builders group linked in the description though! Lot’s of inspiration and helpful people there.
Awesome man, but how much did everything cost?
Thank you! The blade and saber were $587 in parts, but that doesn’t include tools or time invested. However, that isn’t an accurate representation of what the current price would be. Inflation due to time and the current health crisis have driven those costs up. Customs like this are pricey. People always say, “that’s too expensive” or “I can get a saber for way cheaper”. And they are right. Darkwolf Sabers is where I send people for the budget stuff, but having very specific custom sabers is a bit costlier in general. Also, there is a google doc linked in the description that will show you all the parts for the build if you want to check current prices!
@@EccentricArtisan thanks! I’m thinking ab building one but without the neopixel effect, so I’m just going to 3D print the saber, and electroplate it en then buy a blade online and put some leds in it. And ofcourse some soundeffects. But it’s going to be my first build, so you have to start somewhere 😅
We all do. My somewhere was pvc and plumbing pipe when I was about 10. I was dying to have these kind of sabers though! Anyhow, feel free to join the Facebook group linked in the description. We’ve got parts resources linked in our announcements, and loads of experienced builders to answer any questions you have. It’s also cool to see people posting their builds and how they progress as they learn.
Very cool. Thanks
Thank you!
Thank you for your guide. If I were to do a similar build using tri cree I would have to add resistors, but I couldn't see where you added them here. Where would you recommend placing them for a setup like this and which resistances did you end up with for your specific component? Thanks!
For a neopixel setup you have 3 leads that go to the blade connector/LEDs unlike in-hilt (tri-cree). And the resistor must be placed on the data line, somewhere between the board and the first pixel. How you approach it will vary widely based on the build and components used. For this Golden Harvest V3 there is already a resistor built into the data line on the board. If using a Proffieboard V2.2 there is one built into the data 1 pad, so anything on data 1 will be set. Sometimes blade connectors have a space to put one or come with one pre-installed. That covers it just the same. However, if you are in a situation where you need to add one, the resistance you are looking for can be either of two values. You can use a 330 ohm resistor or a 470 ohm resistor. It doesn’t matter which. Also, if you have one built into both your connector and board or even a third resistor on your blade side connector, that would be fine. Because they are on the data line they don’t affect brightness or pixel function at all. Their purpose is to manage any voltage spikes in the data line that could potentially cause damage or unwanted function in your pixels. You are welcome!
@@EccentricArtisan Thank you for your reply! I'm looking to use an 18650 battery with a nominal voltage of 3.7. However, I know that batteries like this have a standard charge at 4.2 volts. Would I be worried about the 3.7 voltage value for resistance calculation or would it be safer for the life of the components to use the 4.2 volt value for calculations?
@@wieneckejacob4752 My mistake, I also meant to add that you want to place resistors for tri cree on the positive or negative line of each diode. I tend to install mine near the LED but wherever works within the install is fine, as long as they come between the LED and power/board. As for calculating the values, I stick with 4.2 V as it will be a safer way to protect the LEDs.
@@EccentricArtisan Sounds like a plan! Is the golden harvest able to regulate charging on its own or would I need to invest in a smart charger?
what kind of speakers did you use?
I’d have to check the build again for the exact one, but I have a parts list google doc linked in the description with several options. All will work similarly.
Okay thanks and would you say that the obi arena hilt chassis would work with the progeny hilt by saber forge?
@@ghosteditz9964 It’s highly unlikely in my opinion, but that’s only speculation. I don’t know the internal dimensions of that hilt. However, you can search etsy for a chassis by hilt name or by the inside dimensions. I would suggest asking for a chassis suggestion in the Facebook group linked in the description as well as this one facebook.com/groups/531427861389790/?ref=share
Okay thanks
@@ghosteditz9964 You’re welcome
Awesome work bro. Do you take installation commissions?
Thanks man. I have in the past, but currently I’m focusing on personal stuff only. I appreciate the interest though.
how reliable are the 3d printed chassis that the electronics sit in and should I get a resin printed one or a casted one or something along those lines
Materials vary greatly, and so do printers and printing processes. However, this chassis is printed in the “versatile plastic” from Shapeways. It’s nylon and holds up very well to regular dueling. As long as the chassis is well designed and printed, as well as mounted properly within the hilt, 3d prints are plenty reliable. Obviously, you wouldn’t want to duel with it exposed though.
Great video! I'm about to build my first saber and this helps so much. Quick question. Is there a special type of grease you use?
Thank you! And as far as grease for threads lithium is generally recommended. Most grease will work okay, but white lithium is relatively inexpensive in small tubes and works great.
Hey, the hilt is sold out, is ist possible to use another hilt but the same components like the chassis and so on?
You could use everything except the chassis, because it is hilt specific. However, the methods of preparation, assembly, and wiring can work universally. Just apply the same or similar approach to another hilt and chassis. To give you a better idea of what I mean, watch my other two videos on a different saber install if you get the chance. You’ll see I use a lot of similar methods despite obvious differences in the builds.
Could you recommend a hilt with a fitting chasis?
@@timknittel3552 there are a lot of options out there, and I don’t know what your preferences might be. But I’ll give you a place to start. I haven’t owned one, but I hear only good things about the Flagship saber from The Saber Armory. It offers a lot of space for customization with etching, grips, leather wrap, etc. There is also a chassis available for it from the same vendor, called Flagship V2 Eco Chassis, that will hold the same soundboard used in this video.
@@EccentricArtisan I put everything into my shopping bucket, it is almost 300€ in total. So you recommend spending so much for a do it yourself saber ?
@@timknittel3552 it all depends on how you feel about the money and what your budget is. Everyone will feel differently, but yes I feel it is very typical. Over a decade in the hobby has taught me it’s expensive no matter low budget or high end. I’ve done installs with parts that totaled only $300-$400 and some that were closer to $1000. The saber in this video was over $400 and closer to $500 with the blade. And that’s just parts. Tools, bench time, experience...all those things add up too. Lol, I wish I could say that it was all easy on the wallet, but I’d be a liar. I purchased just a bare hilt today for $500.
This was incredibly insightful and has helped me tremendously, even though in using a proffieboard. My only question would be wether using a lower amperage battery, like 3000 instead of 3120, would be harmful to the electronics. Again, this video is spectacular and it shows that you know what you're talking about.
Thanks very much for the compliments. I’m glad you found it helpful! 3000 and 3120 are actually milliampere hours (mAh) and represent the capacity of charge the battery can hold. And the larger that number the longer the run time, given everything else is equal. So it would work perfectly fine. The important numbers when searching for the correct battery are the Amperage (A) and voltage (V). With Proffieboard you want a 3.7V Li-ion, which will actually have a max capacity of 4.2V if you read the specifications or description. And for Neopixel lightsabers you need to have a battery rated at 15A max continuous discharge current. Higher would be acceptable, but lower would likely cause performance or functionality issues, because the battery wouldn’t be able to supply enough power to continuously light up your blade.
@@EccentricArtisan dude you’re literally like, so smart its insane.
@@doristhebartender6725 just well studied lol
THANK YOU!!!!
You are welcome!
Why not put the recharge port in the hilt and hide it with a removable screw or the like?
Good question. For this hilt it was a matter of the chassis that was available as well as wanting to leave the exterior of the hilt original. Although you could certainly do exactly what you’re suggesting if it is your preference.
What does it cost to build one
At the time, I believe all the parts/materials for this build were under $400 total. That obviously doesn’t factor in tools or labor. Not sure about now though. Some things have gone up in price.
@@EccentricArtisan thank you I really appreciate it
No problem dude. Thanks for watching!
I should’ve said this before but like did anyone catch how in the beginning he said “Hello There!” That made me feel tf out-
Even though it’s super cliché in the Star Wars community I just never get tired of hearing it!
@@EccentricArtisan I KNOWWWW RIGHT?! It’s so like basic but so legendary!!! Now we got “Like A Bantha!” Which is stupid but awesome lmfao-
It's weird seeing neopixel with pin connectors they are now a flat contact connection
I remember when it first became popularized. I was initially very skeptical of string blades and then neopixel due to their low durability both in components and installation style. But it’s incredible how far everything came so quickly. And neopixel really is a great option now, even for rough play. The pin connector made everything next level as too.
Hi can I hire you to built me a saber
Hey Andrew, I appreciate the interest, but I’m not currently taking on any commissions.
What is a kill switch ?
When talking about lightsabers, it usually just means a switch that stops power from going to the soundboard. Usually either a switching power jack, like in this video, or a slide switch. And because they carry or hold back the power from the battery, they must be rated to handle that power.
@@EccentricArtisan ah ok thx again does every saber need it ?
@@qiaozhiwu4610 Some people don’t incorporate them in every build, but I like to. If your battery is removable, it’s good to have one that can be switched off prior to removing the battery for safety reasons. But it also allows the saber to be stored with a battery in it for a very long period of time without the battery slowly draining. Some boards have a sleep mode that they go into, but it’s better yet to just have a switch that full disconnects the battery. That’s even more useful when the battery isn’t removable. And if you need or want to charge the battery while it’s in the hilt, the switching recharge port/power jack will provide both charging and power down functions.
@@EccentricArtisan ok so I will get a removable battery but should I buy a momentary switch or the latching switch for the kill switch? And which one for the main switch ?
@@qiaozhiwu4610 this is what I use and is often recommended for removable battery kill switches. www.digikey.com/short/z22c80
And double check with the vendor, but I believe the graflex saber comes with the activation switch.
Hey !
I'm trying to build a Graflex but I can't find a good empty hilt which fits to a good chassis. I would be Glad if someone could help me thx.
There are a lot of options for graflex, which can definitely make it more difficult in picking your parts. 89 sabers makes a decent graflex kit for the price. I’ll link it below. Also, how detailed do you want the chassis? Just functional or with crystal chamber and lights?
www.etsy.com/listing/596676068/89-sabers-graflex-lightsaber-kit-reyluke?ref=shop_home_active_1&frs=1&crt=1
@@EccentricArtisan since it would bey first lightsaber I would take a simple chassis and thx again
@@qiaozhiwu4610 you are most welcome! I’ll link a few chassis options for you that may fit your needs. The first supports multiple soundboards and the other two are for proffie. www.etsy.com/listing/989729551/89-sabers-graflex-chassis?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=89+sabers&ref=sr_gallery-1-25&from_market_listing_grid_organic=1&col=1
www.etsy.com/listing/944033831/89sabers-graflex-chassis-for-neopixel?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=89+sabers&ref=sr_gallery-2-2&from_market_listing_grid_organic=1&col=1
www.etsy.com/listing/1001276858/89-sabers-graflex-chassis-only-for?ref=shop_home_active_8&frs=1
@@EccentricArtisan What do u think about this one www.etsy.com/de/listing/990516450/89-sabel-graflex-chassis?ref=hp_rf-1&frs=1&sca=1
And I would take the CFX soundboard
@@qiaozhiwu4610 yep, that one would work too. I have used a chassis from his store previously, and he’s a real good guy. Responds quickly to messages too if you need help with an order.
Man this looks very difficult
The first few times while learning are certainly challenging. Now it’s more about how long I have the patience to sit still and work on an install.
Wait a minute for this built no coding is Required???
Correct. There are parameters you can adjust, and there is an online editor. But because it isn’t open source like proffieboard, you do not have to understand how to implement or write code.
How go get this products in India
I’m not aware of any vendors near you, and I’m not sure what shipping is like from the US or UK. Most of the suppliers I can think of are in those two places. I’d do a google search for Golden Harvest V3 and see what you can find.
hi
Hello
Are you taking commissions
Not currently taking any commissions, but I do appreciate the interest.
@@EccentricArtisan damnnnnnn
eh
🇨🇦