I just completed this job. Two things: 1: I found it is not necessary to remove the passenger side (long) CV shaft, and therefore you can leave that ball joint and axle bolt alone! 2: DO Remove the passenger side output flange on the transmission, it gets hung up on EVERYTHING on the way out. With that off I stuffed a rubber glove with a rag, shoved that fingers first into the trans and then rolled the cuff of the glove over the hole and it did not lose any fluid or get any dirt inside. Otherwise, thanks for this tutorial!
I love that you said to make sure that you support your engine repeatedly there has been far too many cases where people try to do work like this and don't properly support their engine and or let it a which is absolutely ridiculous.
Excellent video with great detail/ commentary real world stuff, no tv mechanics , a lot more work in this than a Toyota corolla, maybe the 1000 costis are permissible here, but you really have layed it out very well ,tks
@@Mikefngarage Yeah I saw what happened to you I will plan this for the spring too cold up here now but it will give me time to plan what i'm going to replace it with. I will be following closely. Are you going to swap with chain driven pump?
@@markwilson2454 I did my Audi A3 with chain. the 2010 and newer CBEA have 100mm shaft from what I can tell. but I changed it to chain anyway. dont want to ever go through that again.
Re torque to yield bolts on engine mounts; definitely recommend replacement, previous owner of my TDi decided to go cheap and re-use them. Result was an engine barely hanging on by one bolt after the other two snapped, could've been a bit of a disaster had I not noticed the extra engine movement!
Thanks Heaps this video help alot! Instead of a cherry picker I used an enggine brace to hold the engine up then used a ratchet strap hooked to the brace and then from the same point in the video to raise the transmission up into the car. I used a transmision jack to support it just a bit as well. Hint bring it up from the ground close to the front of the car with the strap. Then move it back into postion. I did remove the fan shoroud to give me extra room. I first tried using a just a transmission jack and it was just a futile excercise in frustration. I think by hanging the tranmission it is balanced at a better angle then liffting it with a transmission jack alone.
Take the axle flange off, bolt inside. Makes it easier to drop trans! Buy a engine support at Harbor Freight. I have 2 trans jacks, one for working on the floor other is for lift use
@@faithful53 I got it done and started up just fine and sounds and idles great!! Wanted to take it for a test drive but the brakes were so stiff and could barely stop.. Does the computer need to recalibrate the brakes beings the battery was removed for quite awhile? I know I need a brake flush and wondered if sitting the line got clogged, pinched, or backed up somewhere? Thoughts would be phenomenal as it’s my Taxi car for a living….
having hell of a time getting mine back on the car. I have a trans jack but still such a tight fit going back on. Also got a engine support bar to support the trans on that side with the extra chain. ended up bending the intermediate plate some how. Hard to get it lined up with the bolt holes.
@@ryantornai945 Yeah, I have an A3 (same trans) and the manual mentions to drop the back of the engine (where trans mounts) 100mm's to remove/ refit the trans
I was fighting like hell to get the trans back in yesterday. For such a small transmission it’s very heavy. I’ll try using the engine hoist and see how that goes
that cv shaft joint was hard to come off ,when I did the first time was hard too, but I fought out that can remove, the centre of that have a allen key bolt ,after remove the joint ,the gear box will easy come off.
This is a video I've been looking for, for over a year. Your older video was helpful but lacked the detail this one has. I'm going to do this on my 2006 TDI, shouldn't be many differences, correct? Thanks.
yea I forgot a few items on the first one. just some pointers. the hardest part is getting the transmission back in the car. look at the other videos on that I made using a support bar. Apparantly they are available at harbor freight. if you dont have a cherry picker.
Thanks and F these cars. Like you said in the video the engineering is good then you see a what the heck happened here situation? With how long cars have been around the what the heck happened moments should not exist anymore. Going to do this on a 2006 tdi with dsg.
Hi Mike, thanks so much for this video. Planning on doing DSG DMF for the first time (1.9 TDI), without removing subframe (renting a workshop with hoist). Why do you need to remove the axle bolts and LCA, can the LHF axle not be unbolted from transmission and tied up and out of the way keeping these intact, saving the need for an alignment? My first plan is to remove fan shroud and position the case forward and to the left to avoid removing stretch bolts and alignments. Thanks again.
no, only a little fluid will leak from removing the trans cooler. but I would recommend changing the oil every 40k miles so if you havend done it might be a good time to do the job. several videos on that..
I don't believe you actually need to remove the trans cooler. I think you'd only need clamp off and disconnect the coolant hoses from the trans cooler, thereby only allowing a little coolant to leak from the cooler without trans fluid loss. The DSG's get finicky with incorrect fluid levels, understandably.
Mike, I am about to replace my DMF on my 09 VW Jetta TDI 2.0 cbea (automatic 6-speed DSG) and have yet to be able to find an accurate replacement. Each online vw diesel parts stores (idparts, fcpeuro,etc.) they have all said they needed my vin in order to complete the order. Do you have a direct link for a replacement one? It would be greatly appreciated!
@@hardcore4476 no, you'll have to push on it a little to get the bolt to start threading, but it goes back in pretty easy. No locktite, I've never worried about torquing either, just get it nice and snug, I've never had any issues.
@@sAINT898 Awesome Thank you! One more question if I may. What’s the easiest way to get the trans out? Angle it with towards cabin with cross bar and chain and help with jack?
should be oil changed every 40k miles according to the service manual. but nothing in there that would effect the oil from doing that job. if your doing the second DMF....might want to do the clutch pack too.
Sorry but helping replace a turbo and rear main seal on a 2010 CC. The engine is back on and seems to be on perfectly but it doesn’t seem to engage in part (basically wheels are spinning) when everything is butted up engine-bell housing. Is this normal or is there another issue? Trans was working perfectly fine before taking engine out to do the work. Thanks 🙏
Im having trouble getting the transmission back into place it feels like the shaft in the centre is stopping it. Any advice around it. I dont want to snap the engine block because thats how it feels
it is a weird feel you just need to get one of the bolts started. the splines find themselves fairly easy once you get on or 2 bolts started. Not like your typical trans install.
I had allthe bolts it just felt there was a pressure stopping it from going together so i took them all back out and gonna start again tomorrow. So i will keep you posted
I still havent been aboe to get around to doing it. I have also had a mechanic from a garage come and try and he has said the same thing it feels like something is stopping it. I did check the old and new flywheel and they was both exactly the same in width, thickness and everything so it has now left me very confused lol..
I have done it. I took it all apart and started again and what i found is by using a 19mm socket on the opposite side of the engine on the camshaft u can turn the flywheel and it will line itself into place 🍾. So if any1 else finds themselves in the same position as me u can try that trick. It worked for me
The balance hole is in the 2006 1.9 tdi. I have the trans back in but my god I can't figure out which bolts go where. I knew the large on top, small 16mms on bottom. But one of the small ones is longer. Do you know the sequence?
I have a 2011 Volkswagen cc 4 door sport 2.0 t eith dsg dmf im replacing the converter seal and replacing the flywheel its making alot of noise when running causing rough idle sometimes even cuts off but the seal leaked majority of the fluid out how much would i need to put back in and would it be okay to order a dmf with 72k miles on it? Moneys to tight for a new one.
Hello. I have a VW CC 2012. This is my first VW I’ll be working on. (Rear main seal). Did I miss the removal of the torque converter bolts ? Or does the converter slide into the holes on the flywheel ?
There's no torque converter on a dsg transmission, internally they are very similar to a manual! The whole reason for a dual mass flywheel is to soak up the torque pulses a converter would normally absorb
I have a 08 FSI Jetta Wolfsburg Edition with DSG. I don’t hear any rattling when idling but selecting R or D it drops gear sometimes hard after that shifting is flawless. I do feel some slack when hit the accelerator gently while cruising. Bad DMF?
no there are some other issues that happen with the DSG. I am not sure all of them but sometimes it is the n215 n216 solenoids. and something that is mechanical in there. just makes noise then sometimes they start having shifting problems between Park and 1st or just when you stop. Can be like that for years before it will not work. Unlike a regular automatic trans. once there is a problem get out the wallet.
I think it was a old battery that was leaking before. No acid on that battery bottom or any dust. some dust we removed it from the old battery before i got the car.
I bought mine with 130,000ish miles and you could just barely hear it with the belly pan off. We had to get a screwdriver to pin point where it was coming from it was so quiet. Now at 160,000, that fucker makes some noise now but its still holding on. I'll be doing it soon but they can hold on for awhile. Am I damaging my sycros from rough 1-2 shifts? Probably if I don't get it done asap. Junkyard trans are like $500 so its not a huge deal if it does cause a problem.
@@Mikefngarage appreciate the response. Was worried about getting it up high enough. I have a 2.0TSI but should he same. Where did you put the stands at? Usually I do control arm bushing area but I assume it'll have to be a different spot if I need to remove the subframe.
@@ryantornai945 Did one today - no messing with subframe. That was on a 2.0TDI. Be sure to remove the DSG oil cooler and gearbox flanges for extra space
@@dopiaza2006 Hey man got tru the spring inside the flywheel was slightly seized had to drive it up to free it up excessive play means the spring is weak and the flywheel will need to get replaced
@@dopiaza2006 no no it can't be fixed it if seized you can drive it and it will free up this only works on a flywheel that is a known good but was sitting for some time and gets seized up that was the issue in my case
@@hardcore4476 yeah bro just that when I replaced it with a sachs one it did not want to turn on I’m not sure why and I been trying to get the oem one but they are on back order for like 6 months
@@androidtechreviews8968 Get a Luk one! Heard they improved the design of the OEM one and should last longer. I’m about to install it any day now. Just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row… Witch with the hidden FKN information of VW’s it’s quite irritating!!
I was hoping to see how to lock the flywheel so it can be removed, but the video completely skipped this so I am none the wiser. Not helpful at all. Sorry.
You don't need to lock it if you use impact driver to remove. If you don't have one you can buy a tool to lock the flywheel teeth or i guess you could use the crankshaft nut at the other end to keep the engine from rotating.
I just completed this job. Two things:
1: I found it is not necessary to remove the passenger side (long) CV shaft, and therefore you can leave that ball joint and axle bolt alone!
2: DO Remove the passenger side output flange on the transmission, it gets hung up on EVERYTHING on the way out. With that off I stuffed a rubber glove with a rag, shoved that fingers first into the trans and then rolled the cuff of the glove over the hole and it did not lose any fluid or get any dirt inside.
Otherwise, thanks for this tutorial!
I love that you said to make sure that you support your engine repeatedly there has been far too many cases where people try to do work like this and don't properly support their engine and or let it a which is absolutely ridiculous.
Excellent video with great detail/ commentary real world stuff, no tv mechanics , a lot more work in this than a Toyota corolla, maybe the 1000 costis are permissible here, but you really have layed it out very well ,tks
Just want to say thanks Mike for posting all your flywheel videos! just completed the repair on my 09 TDI Sportwagen runs like a dream a again.
Glad to help
Hey Look up HEX shaft FAIL on the 2009..... you will thank me later. Change it before it goes out and ruins the engine.
@@Mikefngarage Yeah I saw what happened to you I will plan this for the spring too cold up here now but it will give me time to plan what i'm going to replace it with. I will be following closely. Are you going to swap with chain driven pump?
@@markwilson2454 I did my Audi A3 with chain. the 2010 and newer CBEA have 100mm shaft from what I can tell. but I changed it to chain anyway. dont want to ever go through that again.
@@Mikefngarage did you use the kermatdi kit? how bad was the install?
Re torque to yield bolts on engine mounts; definitely recommend replacement, previous owner of my TDi decided to go cheap and re-use them. Result was an engine barely hanging on by one bolt after the other two snapped, could've been a bit of a disaster had I not noticed the extra engine movement!
I’ve noticed the same.
Thanks Heaps this video help alot! Instead of a cherry picker I used an enggine brace to hold the engine up then used a ratchet strap hooked to the brace and then from the same point in the video to raise the transmission up into the car. I used a transmision jack to support it just a bit as well. Hint bring it up from the ground close to the front of the car with the strap. Then move it back into postion. I did remove the fan shoroud to give me extra room. I first tried using a just a transmission jack and it was just a futile excercise in frustration. I think by hanging the tranmission it is balanced at a better angle then liffting it with a transmission jack alone.
Take the axle flange off, bolt inside. Makes it easier to drop trans! Buy a engine support at Harbor Freight. I have 2 trans jacks, one for working on the floor other is for lift use
Sure does...
How hard it it to get the flange back on and what’s the torque spec? Does it need new bolt or reused ok.
Not hard, I think torque was 34ft lb
@@faithful53 yeah it wasn’t hard at all. Those axles are a pain in the ass though. Wrapping up today and pray 🙏🏻 all is good!
@@faithful53 I got it done and started up just fine and sounds and idles great!! Wanted to take it for a test drive but the brakes were so stiff and could barely stop.. Does the computer need to recalibrate the brakes beings the battery was removed for quite awhile? I know I need a brake flush and wondered if sitting the line got clogged, pinched, or backed up somewhere? Thoughts would be phenomenal as it’s my Taxi car for a living….
having hell of a time getting mine back on the car. I have a trans jack but still such a tight fit going back on. Also got a engine support bar to support the trans on that side with the extra chain. ended up bending the intermediate plate some how. Hard to get it lined up with the bolt holes.
NVM figured it out. Dropping the trans side of the engine down with my engine support bar so it was at an angle helped to get it in.
@@ryantornai945 Yeah, I have an A3 (same trans) and the manual mentions to drop the back of the engine (where trans mounts) 100mm's to remove/ refit the trans
there you go makes it much easier. that is definitely the hardest part of the job.
gonna be attempting clutch and flywheel on my r32 dsg, this is a great gives me a good idea
You guys should work for Hollywood your cinemagraphy skills are great
ha ha ha thanks horrible. LOL
I was fighting like hell to get the trans back in yesterday. For such a small transmission it’s very heavy. I’ll try using the engine hoist and see how that goes
Hello, what about the shaft sealing crankshaft. I think it is better to change it in the same time
Torque to yield is for consistency in automated manufacturing. Joe sixpak can use 10.9 bolts to replace them.
that cv shaft joint was hard to come off ,when I did the first time was hard too, but I fought out that can remove, the centre of that have a allen key bolt ,after remove the joint ,the gear box will easy come off.
This is a video I've been looking for, for over a year. Your older video was helpful but lacked the detail this one has. I'm going to do this on my 2006 TDI, shouldn't be many differences, correct? Thanks.
yea I forgot a few items on the first one. just some pointers. the hardest part is getting the transmission back in the car. look at the other videos on that I made using a support bar. Apparantly they are available at harbor freight. if you dont have a cherry picker.
@@Mikefngarage hi. You mentioned an aluminum engine guard. Do you have one you recommend?
Thank you
thank u
Hello exelent video, thanks
Thanks and F these cars. Like you said in the video the engineering is good then you see a what the heck happened here situation? With how long cars have been around the what the heck happened moments should not exist anymore. Going to do this on a 2006 tdi with dsg.
remove the right drive flange - one bolt, I think hex, and it makes removal easier,
6mm allen bolt holding the passenger side axle flange onto the transmission.
Hi Mike, thanks so much for this video. Planning on doing DSG DMF for the first time (1.9 TDI), without removing subframe (renting a workshop with hoist). Why do you need to remove the axle bolts and LCA, can the LHF axle not be unbolted from transmission and tied up and out of the way keeping these intact, saving the need for an alignment?
My first plan is to remove fan shroud and position the case forward and to the left to avoid removing stretch bolts and alignments. Thanks again.
Do the new updated DMF’s last longer then the original ones?
Thx for the video. i got one question!!! Do i need to empty the gearbox oil or its not connected together with flywheel?
no, only a little fluid will leak from removing the trans cooler. but I would recommend changing the oil every 40k miles so if you havend done it might be a good time to do the job. several videos on that..
I don't believe you actually need to remove the trans cooler. I think you'd only need clamp off and disconnect the coolant hoses from the trans cooler, thereby only allowing a little coolant to leak from the cooler without trans fluid loss. The DSG's get finicky with incorrect fluid levels, understandably.
How much would this cost at a desler
What tools did you use to remove the flywheel?? And the axle?
called a tripple square. if you are in the USA Amazon has them pretty cheap in a set.
Hello, can you pls share the item number of the new luk DMF?
Mike,
I am about to replace my DMF on my 09 VW Jetta TDI 2.0 cbea (automatic 6-speed DSG) and have yet to be able to find an accurate replacement. Each online vw diesel parts stores (idparts, fcpeuro,etc.) they have all said they needed my vin in order to complete the order. Do you have a direct link for a replacement one? It would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Is this the same for the VW ccsport r line 2012
Corey Holmes I believe it is
I use the car scissor jack to push block towards front. Learned on utube academy
Did you remove the fan assembly up front and what did that help give you more room to get the trans out or back in?
Do yourself a favor and pull the passenger side CV axle flange next time. Takes a long 6mm Allen you access after unbolting the axle, pops right out.
Is it hard to get it back on with spring tension? Also did you use same bolt and use locktite? Torque specs needed?
@@hardcore4476 no, you'll have to push on it a little to get the bolt to start threading, but it goes back in pretty easy. No locktite, I've never worried about torquing either, just get it nice and snug, I've never had any issues.
@@sAINT898 Awesome Thank you! One more question if I may. What’s the easiest way to get the trans out? Angle it with towards cabin with cross bar and chain and help with jack?
@@sAINT898 What model is your car? Mine is 2011 VW Jetta TDI 2.0L I4
Does the DSG need to be serviced after replacing the DMF?
should be oil changed every 40k miles according to the service manual. but nothing in there that would effect the oil from doing that job. if your doing the second DMF....might want to do the clutch pack too.
Sorry but helping replace a turbo and rear main seal on a 2010 CC. The engine is back on and seems to be on perfectly but it doesn’t seem to engage in part (basically wheels are spinning) when everything is butted up engine-bell housing. Is this normal or is there another issue? Trans was working perfectly fine before taking engine out to do the work.
Thanks 🙏
think from what your explaining it is just fine.
I have the same transmission, everytime I tighten the bolts the crank will not turn.
Im having trouble getting the transmission back into place it feels like the shaft in the centre is stopping it. Any advice around it. I dont want to snap the engine block because thats how it feels
it is a weird feel you just need to get one of the bolts started. the splines find themselves fairly easy once you get on or 2 bolts started. Not like your typical trans install.
does not pilot like a regular trans.
I had allthe bolts it just felt there was a pressure stopping it from going together so i took them all back out and gonna start again tomorrow. So i will keep you posted
I still havent been aboe to get around to doing it. I have also had a mechanic from a garage come and try and he has said the same thing it feels like something is stopping it. I did check the old and new flywheel and they was both exactly the same in width, thickness and everything so it has now left me very confused lol..
I have done it. I took it all apart and started again and what i found is by using a 19mm socket on the opposite side of the engine on the camshaft u can turn the flywheel and it will line itself into place 🍾. So if any1 else finds themselves in the same position as me u can try that trick. It worked for me
The balance hole is in the 2006 1.9 tdi. I have the trans back in but my god I can't figure out which bolts go where. I knew the large on top, small 16mms on bottom. But one of the small ones is longer. Do you know the sequence?
I have a 2011 Volkswagen cc 4 door sport 2.0 t eith dsg dmf im replacing the converter seal and replacing the flywheel its making alot of noise when running causing rough idle sometimes even cuts off but the seal leaked majority of the fluid out how much would i need to put back in and would it be okay to order a dmf with 72k miles on it? Moneys to tight for a new one.
Hello. I have a VW CC 2012. This is my first VW I’ll be working on. (Rear main seal). Did I miss the removal of the torque converter bolts ? Or does the converter slide into the holes on the flywheel ?
There's no torque converter on a dsg transmission, internally they are very similar to a manual! The whole reason for a dual mass flywheel is to soak up the torque pulses a converter would normally absorb
I have a 08 FSI Jetta Wolfsburg Edition with DSG. I don’t hear any rattling when idling but selecting R or D it drops gear sometimes hard after that shifting is flawless. I do feel some slack when hit the accelerator gently while cruising. Bad DMF?
no there are some other issues that happen with the DSG. I am not sure all of them but sometimes it is the n215 n216 solenoids. and something that is mechanical in there. just makes noise then sometimes they start having shifting problems between Park and 1st or just when you stop. Can be like that for years before it will not work. Unlike a regular automatic trans. once there is a problem get out the wallet.
Will this how to work for a 2011 Audi A3 tdi with the dsg trans?
Hi
You mentioned an aluminum engine guard. Do you have one you recommend?
Thanks
I made my own just traced it to a piece of aluminum sheet
@@Mikefngarage oh great. Thank you
Hey mike do you get any new TTY bolts when doing this job or do you use the old ones with that ultra black silicone that you mentioned??
I think I replaced the flywheel bolts but not the engine mount ones. Not a bad idea. used silicone too. they wont come out of there.
@@Mikefngarage Ok thank you.
Versachem MEGA BLACK? gasket sealer silicone? Is that the right one?
@@Mikefngarage How long do you let the mega black sit on a bolt before installing it?
🤦♂️ pro's I see
Man those dual mass's are junk
They make the engine last longer but Yea they are a pain to replace on a maintenance interval. In most european cars
Looks like battery leaking acid don’t want that on wiring loom under battery tray !
I think it was a old battery that was leaking before. No acid on that battery bottom or any dust. some dust we removed it from the old battery before i got the car.
I bought mine with 130,000ish miles and you could just barely hear it with the belly pan off. We had to get a screwdriver to pin point where it was coming from it was so quiet. Now at 160,000, that fucker makes some noise now but its still holding on. I'll be doing it soon but they can hold on for awhile. Am I damaging my sycros from rough 1-2 shifts? Probably if I don't get it done asap. Junkyard trans are like $500 so its not a huge deal if it does cause a problem.
What size tripple squares are needed for the whole job?
I bought a set from amazon had all the sizes I need I dont remember exact sizes.
how can i buy the flywhell i have the same problem with my jetta tdi 2006 and how much can i pay for that
a bit less than 400 on ebay.
Doable on jack stands?
yea for sure I did mine last time on jack stands on the side of the house with a easy up.
@@Mikefngarage appreciate the response. Was worried about getting it up high enough. I have a 2.0TSI but should he same. Where did you put the stands at? Usually I do control arm bushing area but I assume it'll have to be a different spot if I need to remove the subframe.
@@ryantornai945 Don't need to disturb the subframe. Axle stands under lower arm rear bush mount will be fine.
@@dopiaza2006 already did it a few years ago on jackstands. Def had to remove the subframe iirc to get it out of the car
@@ryantornai945 Did one today - no messing with subframe. That was on a 2.0TDI. Be sure to remove the DSG oil cooler and gearbox flanges for extra space
Mike what oil was leaking out?
small amount from removing the oil cooler.
Gotcha thanks.
what happens if the flywheel has no free play?
Sounds like the bearing has seized. does it not move at all?
@@dopiaza2006 Hey man got tru the spring inside the flywheel was slightly seized had to drive it up to free it up excessive play means the spring is weak and the flywheel will need to get replaced
@@shimon2476 You managed to 'fix' a flywheel? Tell me more! I'm getting really annoyed at spending £300 a shot because of a weak spring!
@@dopiaza2006 no no it can't be fixed it if seized you can drive it and it will free up this only works on a flywheel that is a known good but was sitting for some time and gets seized up that was the issue in my case
U didn’t show how to take it off the flywheel what do u need ??
Believe 10mm triple square bit.. did you get it done?
@@hardcore4476 yeah bro just that when I replaced it with a sachs one it did not want to turn on I’m not sure why and I been trying to get the oem one but they are on back order for like 6 months
@@androidtechreviews8968 Get a Luk one! Heard they improved the design of the OEM one and should last longer. I’m about to install it any day now. Just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row… Witch with the hidden FKN information of VW’s it’s quite irritating!!
@@hardcore4476 where did u get urs from bro ?
Did you create the video putting the transmission back in? Can you post link?
No they avoided that like the plague. Lol. Seriously it's a tedious job.
What year do you have? I'm putting my 06 back together tomorrow, as long as it isn't raining. DMF's really should last longer...
Dmf 126 or 181
More info please
I was hoping to see how to lock the flywheel so it can be removed, but the video completely skipped this so I am none the wiser. Not helpful at all. Sorry.
You don't need to lock it if you use impact driver to remove. If you don't have one you can buy a tool to lock the flywheel teeth or i guess you could use the crankshaft nut at the other end to keep the engine from rotating.
For anyone wanting a trick to lock the flywheel. Use a Allen wrench, put in bolt hole and angle wedge it on one of the tooth’s of the flywheel! 😎👍🏻