@@woodsandbarclay My buddy who helps me with all the work on it wants to try to get 600hp outta the current 1.9l tdi. She's got 332k on it now, but we want a rear wheel drive longitudinal mounted motor and we both think the OM606 is the only way to go! 🍻 brother!
Awesome Awesome video guys...........no BS, nu stupid music.............just true grit guys making for the true grit viewer and both parties know exactly whats going on, very big thank you
Thank you Blair we actually got the engine into the car a couple weeks ago. Trying to figure out what to do with the water line that runs into the back of the head. Anyway scroll to some of the newer videos on my channel and you'll see us putting the engine in the car.
If you put shop air pressure with a adapter through the glow plug hole your valves will stay in place and being you have the cam removed you don’t need to rotate the engine following firing order because valves are already seated just need air pressure in the cylinder just to keep the valves from falling in. It’s just a suggestion
I'm on a similar om606 w124 project but nowhere that nice. I will settle for ~250-300hp top because my brakes aren't very strong. Your video will be very helpful to me, thanks for sharing your experience.
@@woodsandbarclay I've got a number of classic Mercedes now (growing every year) two happen to be the OM 617... I do all the work on them myself with the help of some great people in the classic Mercedes community that I'm sure you know ... Great content!
Very nice video. But you did make a misstake. When putting on this oil pan from the w124 you NEED to change the oil pump pickup as well. Otherwise it wont be enough clearence between the oil pan bottom to the pickup. So you will at some point get air in your oil pump and totally loose oil press. It works perfectly fine to go with oil pan from w210. Best regards.
Interesting I've never heard that I am going to take some measurements immediately. We have to use the 124 oil pan because the motor is going in a 1995 w124 e300 and it has to clear the sway bar. Thank you for pointing this out!!!
I'd like to convert a dodge avenger to rwd, using charger parts, with custom axels, with either a Honda k20-24, or j35 with a 6 speed and turbo, making 300 HP with the 2.0L or 400-450 with the V6, just add boost, and mildly port the heads and intake, build custom stainless headers, ceramic coating on the intake , and pistons, the exhaust ports the whole header, and turbine housing, and the downpipe, 3"-3.25" x6-8" then reduce down to 2.5" to a flow master pro series muffler with a 3" x 12" tip with a bright silver/chrome ceramic coating. Along with the header and turbine housing, the inside and the exhaust ports and piston, and flame deck, coated with the ceramic insulation. Possibly coat the piston skirt with the anti friction coating! Also ceramic coat the cold side housing, for good looks and 'keeping heat out, upgrade injectors, add boost, either those gas engines, or a om605, with similar mods , ceramic coating . Decent turbo, allowing approx. 5k rpm +/-500 - 600 rpm.. a 605 should fit with little fire wall modifications, possibly use a charger front subframe, only narrowed slightly, using the steering, suspension, fabricated strut towers, using charger components, so the avenger will look like and use charger parts, Haha, it's like a 3/4 scale charge anyway! Converted to rwd would be awesome! Especially with a 6speed, a 605 would make plenty of power, 250 HP would be a major improvement, 300-380 awesome! Maybe a Camaro tr-6060, or t-56, or some other 6 speed, and definitely mount the battery in the trunk, with a 0 ,or 2 gauge cable set running to the front, probably 0 gauge, to prevent voltage drop! And build a aluminum mesh grill, with aluminum bar surround, powder coat black, and the offset mesh silver, with scat RT logo on it, the grills in the avenger is horrible as horse droppings on your face?! WTF was they thinking? 🤔
I don't think we had to do anything inside the car to get the gear shifter to fit. It actually came up through the stock location in the floor where the automatic transmission shifter was.
Man I'm really sorry I don't remember as we did this video last year. But removing the belt tensioner is a very simple process. If you're building a high horsepower engine you probably want to remove that and make sure it's all in good condition anyway.
Hi guy's, great video, can you help me, I have put a om606 into my 1995 s350 with the O603, the w140 has a load of vacuum lines, and I am at a loss to where they all go, but what I need to know, what are the basic hook up of vacuum lines, to make the engine run OK, it has the original turbo, and an uprated fuel pump by Diesel pump UK, so the pipes I need to know they originate from and connect to, ie- WASTE GATE, EGR, ALDA, thanks
You do not need vacuum for the engine to run okay. The vacuum system is to power all the accessories on the car the diesel engine does not need vacuum.
@@woodsandbarclay HI Guys, thanks for your reply, but I am a bit confused, as I thought that the Wastegate had to have a vacuum to make the Turbo operate efficiently, so where does it get that vacuum from? same for the Alder for proper fuel amount to pump, thanks
Hey I'm glad you're enjoying the videos I actually haven't gotten that far yet and haven't even thought about it. We've been working on the custom exhaust and the shifter along with some other items over the last few weeks. I'm getting a custom driveshaft made in a couple of weeks and after that installed we will focus back on the engine compartment.
@@woodsandbarclay thanks for your reply, sorry for my English, i use Google translate, but my question is about the springs you used in the video, where did you get those springs? I mean the origin of the springs. They are not of origin om606
Expensive. Hahaha. Seriously I don't know I'll have to get out my spreadsheet and go back over all of my costs but if you want to go fast you have to spend money.
Very informative thank you. I was hoping to see how you kept chain tension on the sprocket (floating in free space) during the 120° crankshaft rotation steps Did you un-wire it, hand guide the chain/sprocket, then re-wire?
It's blocked off because it doesn't go anywhere. Those are the diesel return lines you're talking about they're not called piggie back lines. The function of the diesel return hose is to send unburnt diesel back to the fuel filter housing and then back to the tank. The number six injector only needs to send it from one side so the other side is plugged off ;)
Thanks for the help.i just got the e300 last weekend .had little knowledge from dieselpumpuk 3 months ago you tune videos on ecm tuning and now I am fully devoted on making a sleeper nothing crazy i am stoked for you though.
The word you are looking for is lifter buckets or tappets. No shims for the 60X engine series. They are hydraulic/self adjusting. They are known to collapse on older high mileage engines. They get sludge & deposits trapped inside and stick. Had put all new ones in my 603. Being a 12V engine it would cause a misfire. A little Seafoam in the oil would temporarily restore function but ultimately they will need replaced. My 606 will get all new one before assembly.
You should keep the camshaft cap #3 and #6 tied to the end after removing all the caps you should unsecured the 3 and 6 at the same time one turn for each bolt. Or you might break the camshaft that what the manufacturer says.
I need the part number on the injector piggieback fuel line that are braided. I am restoring my e300 to drive it as a daily and start saving for my build for 250 hp anything bigger with no forged internals can cause big problems.half of what you are installing I will be saving up for
I was wondering if anyone has built a heavy aluminum intake base, to fit a hell kitten super charger, or LSA supercharger, caddy supercharger, and run a pair of turbos, off 3cylinders each, and a large intercooler, with a large air to water intercooler under the supercharger, possibly attach the crank pulley by making basically a large fender washer from 3/8" - 1/2" steel plate, tig it to the pulley, with 1/4" bolts in the perimeter of the welded in plate. Set it up in a lathe, face it off, the crank bolt should fit between the the shoulder of the bolt, if not, lathe it off a bit, keeping it large as possible. Use a gallon tank for the inter cooler, as well as a couple large trans or oil coolers to keep the water cool, use a tank so ice can be used! Use a dual in, and single out intercooler, with twin turbos that spool at higher rpm, boosting the boost! Forcing about 1bar on top of the supercharger, with it making 1-1.25 bar! Of inlet air, that should always be dense, and cool, (under 100°F @ 2bar surely under 150°F peak!) And can probably handle a good bit additional boost without temperature climbing greatly, with turbos large enough to boost on top of the supercharger, cranking full boost, it should do 25-30psi, then a larger crank pulley, (being bolted to the steel plate 'fender washer' using 1/4" or m6 studs, with aluminum spacer if required, machine a couple pulleys, from aluminum, with a pair of tensioners for the dedicated supercharger belt, maybe the studs can be tapped into the damper , but I think tig welding the steel to the pulley/ damper would be better, drilling could weaken the damper, it should create a monster, it would be a good idea to swap to H beam rods, about . 020" longer if possible, or deck the block to get the piston to zero deck, ceramic coat the piston, the head, exhaust ports, after a mild porting, build a stainless header/ turbo manifold, with 1/2" flanges, from 1.25"-1.5" tubing, heated and oval to fit the ports short as possible, with about 3mm wall tubing, and a pair of t-3/t-4 flanges, with tabs for bracing, or they can be cut if not needed. The large supercharger intended for a 6.0L+ engine, should spin slow producing less heat, and basically mounted on top of the cam cover! It may cost clearance, but it should be spicy and rowdy!! Capable of boost at idle, Mays well add a 25-50HP nitrous kit, using 12 tiny nozzles aimed down the intake ports. Basically make a spray bar that runs through the intake 3/16" tubing, with . 005" -.010" holes fed from both ends! Use a restrictor at the solenoid, use bulkhead fitting, with ferals to clamp on the tubing as the -3 -4 fitting is tightened. Using matching hose, going to the solenoid with a purge before the 'Y,' then possibly a bit of hose then the activation solenoid, (the purge solenoid is attached to a tee!) With a -4 hose going to the intercooler to another tube filled with holes, to cool the water just a bit more! Using -6, 3/8" hose, making for a decent flow, going to a single 5/8-3/4" the coolant is split into two oil coolers, then back to a single line! It should make tons of power, and not smoke, having a pilot injection to quiet the engine down a bit would be nice, the use of 100% methanol injection may do that, use a 5 gallon tank for methanol, use a set of injectors, like it's a gas engine, use a simple pwm control possibly a crank trigger, to fire each injector as the intake valve opens, during idle, to 2500 rpm. Then a button to turn on at anytime, run at 60-80 psi, using stock 3.8L injector size, from a gas /: flex fuel engine, run either 100% methanol, or 50/50 methanol/ ethanol mix, it will probably be 45/55, ethanol/methanol. Use a pwm with a microcontroller, to pulse the injection about 6x fast at idle, then just 2-3x for longer duration at 2500-3000 rpm, then at 4500-5500+/- just on for fraction of a second with the push of a button, possibly running 1-2 psi at idle, and 8-10 by 1000rpm, then the turbos start singing around 2500-2800 really making boost by 3500, where it should turn to a rocket ship!!... The supercharger should make 1.2-2 bar at 2500 alone, with the turbos starting to boost that, upwards of 4, bar! And under150°F so fairly dense, nearly 60psi boost, with a 6dpeed transmission, it should be awesome! 😎
To get one of these engines you really need to find a 98 or 99 e300 and buy the entire car and pull the engine out. You can also buy a used engine on eBay but I wouldn't recommend doing this because you really don't know the condition. The engine in this video has been heavily modified so this one would be worth probably 5 or $6,000 by this point. But you can buy a used car or used engine for somewhere around the $3,000 mark if your patient and wait for the right deal. This engine only had 95,000 miles on it when we bought it and the car cost $6,500 that it came out of.
oui, vous verrez certainement les vidéos lorsque la voiture sera terminée, assurez-vous simplement de vous abonner à la chaîne RUclips afin d'être averti. Ce sera fait très bientôt
If you go to my RUclips channel and scroll back to the videos from last year you will see the complete suspension build out. Or you can probably search RUclips for e300 racecar
I just went to the Mercedes dealer and bought these brand new. I normally use Monark when I'm rebuilding my om617 engines. However these are from the dealership so we'll give it a shot and see how it works.
Hey the shop is in Roswell Georgia about 15 minutes north of Atlanta just outside the perimeter. Our number and email address is on our website www.woodsandbarclay.com
Nice explained video, couple of comments, crank pully bolt not tight enough, see this video, 200Nm plus 90 deg tighter, see this video ruclips.net/video/2ybRI1wKafo/видео.html also when you take the sump off better to do it when it is at the bottom so that no dirty oil or bits in the sump drop into the engine, cheers Tim
Awesome thank you Tim. I was also concerned about the torque on that crank bolt. However my Ingersoll Rand impact can easily do 200 newton meters. So I think it'll be fine. If I'm on the racetrack and it flies off and blows me up I'll be sure to let you know hahaha.
Y'all are doing the Lord's work here!
Thank you God 🙏
@@woodsandbarclay Amen to that!
It's my dream to cram one of these OM606s into my MKIV Jetta when her 1.9 tdi alh finally takes a dump and make it a rear wheel drag and drive beast.
Do it!!!
@@woodsandbarclay My buddy who helps me with all the work on it wants to try to get 600hp outta the current 1.9l tdi. She's got 332k on it now, but we want a rear wheel drive longitudinal mounted motor and we both think the OM606 is the only way to go!
🍻 brother!
Very cool from you to fwd the MB references of the parts
Thanks
Awesome I'm glad you're enjoying the videos
Thanks so much Brother. Very good video for teaching how to make an excelent job
I'm so glad you're enjoying the videos thank you for the comment.
@@woodsandbarclay many important details to upgrade. Felicitaciones..
Luke needs to open a shop in the US. Diesel pump US😆, dpus! 😆
That engine is to die for 🤤🤤🤤
One day hooo 🤔🤔🤔🤤🙌 owe one day
❤
Thank you guys .. very captivating and informative 🎉🎉
Glad you're enjoying the videos thank you for watching.
These clicks are super important when the engine vibrate and they are not tight it brakes the lines Terminal
:)
great vid, thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching!
Awesome Awesome video guys...........no BS, nu stupid music.............just true grit guys making for the true grit viewer and both parties know exactly whats going on, very big thank you
Thank you Blair we actually got the engine into the car a couple weeks ago. Trying to figure out what to do with the water line that runs into the back of the head. Anyway scroll to some of the newer videos on my channel and you'll see us putting the engine in the car.
@@woodsandbarclay 🙂
If you put shop air pressure with a adapter through the glow plug hole your valves will stay in place and being you have the cam removed you don’t need to rotate the engine following firing order because valves are already seated just need air pressure in the cylinder just to keep the valves from falling in. It’s just a suggestion
Yeah I'm familiar with that method for sure. For me it's just easier to rotate the engine. Rotating the engine is a much faster method.
I'm on a similar om606 w124 project but nowhere that nice. I will settle for ~250-300hp top because my brakes aren't very strong. Your video will be very helpful to me, thanks for sharing your experience.
Awesome I'd love to see some videos of the work you're doing I'm so glad you're enjoying my videos.
so why didnt you do vlv springs on 1 and 6 before cranki ng 120 deg for 2 and5
All I can tell you is we figured out how to do it in that video and that's how we did it. I'm sure there's other ways you can do it.
what valve spring compressor is that ?
Man I have no idea Eli brought this with him
Love the project... Great attention to detail. Great video!!!
Thank you Mario I appreciate that. Glad you're enjoying the videos I'll keep making them!
@@woodsandbarclay I've got a number of classic Mercedes now (growing every year) two happen to be the OM 617... I do all the work on them myself with the help of some great people in the classic Mercedes community that I'm sure you know ... Great content!
Awesome
Eli is awsome with this
Yeah he's definitely awesome and knows what he's talking about!
Great video. Injectors wrench has a cutout for the wire, when you have an injector that controls the injection angle for the electrical dieselpump
Thanks man I'm so glad you enjoyed the video thanks for the comment!
Does om606 use computer box?
No. Not if you install a mechanical pump and remove the electronic pump.
Very nice video. But you did make a misstake. When putting on this oil pan from the w124 you NEED to change the oil pump pickup as well. Otherwise it wont be enough clearence between the oil pan bottom to the pickup. So you will at some point get air in your oil pump and totally loose oil press. It works perfectly fine to go with oil pan from w210. Best regards.
Interesting I've never heard that I am going to take some measurements immediately. We have to use the 124 oil pan because the motor is going in a 1995 w124 e300 and it has to clear the sway bar. Thank you for pointing this out!!!
How can I put the om606 turbo into a w124 with the stock oil pan ; my car is e250 turbo
AMAZING WORK 👍
Thank you
I'd like to convert a dodge avenger to rwd, using charger parts, with custom axels, with either a Honda k20-24, or j35 with a 6 speed and turbo, making 300 HP with the 2.0L or 400-450 with the V6, just add boost, and mildly port the heads and intake, build custom stainless headers, ceramic coating on the intake , and pistons, the exhaust ports the whole header, and turbine housing, and the downpipe, 3"-3.25" x6-8" then reduce down to 2.5" to a flow master pro series muffler with a 3" x 12" tip with a bright silver/chrome ceramic coating. Along with the header and turbine housing, the inside and the exhaust ports and piston, and flame deck, coated with the ceramic insulation. Possibly coat the piston skirt with the anti friction coating! Also ceramic coat the cold side housing, for good looks and 'keeping heat out, upgrade injectors, add boost, either those gas engines, or a om605, with similar mods , ceramic coating . Decent turbo, allowing approx. 5k rpm +/-500 - 600 rpm.. a 605 should fit with little fire wall modifications, possibly use a charger front subframe, only narrowed slightly, using the steering, suspension, fabricated strut towers, using charger components, so the avenger will look like and use charger parts, Haha, it's like a 3/4 scale charge anyway! Converted to rwd would be awesome! Especially with a 6speed, a 605 would make plenty of power, 250 HP would be a major improvement, 300-380 awesome! Maybe a Camaro tr-6060, or t-56, or some other 6 speed, and definitely mount the battery in the trunk, with a 0 ,or 2 gauge cable set running to the front, probably 0 gauge, to prevent voltage drop! And build a aluminum mesh grill, with aluminum bar surround, powder coat black, and the offset mesh silver, with scat RT logo on it, the grills in the avenger is horrible as horse droppings on your face?! WTF was they thinking? 🤔
😮
Was there much work inside around the gear shifter, to do ,to get the gearbox out?
I don't think we had to do anything inside the car to get the gear shifter to fit. It actually came up through the stock location in the floor where the automatic transmission shifter was.
Great Job, I have Luke Dales OM 606 wagon……..lots of fun
Oh that's cool I would love to see it do you have any videos that you can post a RUclips link here
Do you have to remove the blet tensioner to remove the cams
Man I'm really sorry I don't remember as we did this video last year. But removing the belt tensioner is a very simple process. If you're building a high horsepower engine you probably want to remove that and make sure it's all in good condition anyway.
@@woodsandbarclay many thanks for replying and for the build videos
Hi guy's, great video, can you help me, I have put a om606 into my 1995 s350 with the O603, the w140 has a load of vacuum lines, and I am at a loss to where they all go, but what I need to know, what are the basic hook up of vacuum lines, to make the engine run OK, it has the original turbo, and an uprated fuel pump by Diesel pump UK, so the pipes I need to know they originate from and connect to, ie- WASTE GATE, EGR, ALDA, thanks
You do not need vacuum for the engine to run okay. The vacuum system is to power all the accessories on the car the diesel engine does not need vacuum.
@@woodsandbarclay HI Guys, thanks for your reply, but I am a bit confused, as I thought that the Wastegate had to have a vacuum to make the Turbo operate efficiently, so where does it get that vacuum from? same for the Alder for proper fuel amount to pump, thanks
@@malcolmhaviland4399 we are using an aftermarket waste gate
In a word.....amazing. Absolutely amazing. Your knowledge is incredible. You make it all seem so effortless. "Hats off" to you, both!
Wow thank you for the kind words :)
How do you block of the fuel line going to the pre-heater from pump/tank? Thanks, first time viewer and subscriber .
Hey I'm glad you're enjoying the videos I actually haven't gotten that far yet and haven't even thought about it. We've been working on the custom exhaust and the shifter along with some other items over the last few weeks. I'm getting a custom driveshaft made in a couple of weeks and after that installed we will focus back on the engine compartment.
did have any problems when rotating the engine with the chain ?
No no problems at all.
@woodsandbarclay Any tips on keeping tension on it so not to jump a tooth?
Well I don't have any tips but just make sure you do it.
great video guys!
Thank you Scott!
Great footage mate
Thank you ;)
What thread is the dowel pin
I'm sorry I couldn't tell you this was a while ago when I worked on this engine.
Wow…congrats guys!!👍👍so good job!i am gonna do the same job for my om606.almost same project😜💪🏎🏎🏎
Awesome!
Good time, did you change the springs, what are they from? They are somewhat more powerful than the native mothra om606
thanks for your reply
Yes please watch the video and you should see us changing the springs that's the majority of what this video is about.
I forgot the name of the company where I ordered the springs but I should mention it later in the video
@@woodsandbarclay thanks for your reply, sorry for my English, i use Google translate, but my question is about the springs you used in the video, where did you get those springs? I mean the origin of the springs. They are not of origin om606
@@woodsandbarclay understand, thanks, if you remember the name, i would be appreciate if you write it here in comment
@@turbo-garageodessa www.thekangaroosteam.com/shop-1/om605-om606-stiffer-valve-springs-upgrade-springs
Hello again,what size is turbo exhaust?is it 12sm or 10sm?thanks
We are using a 3-inch exhaust
@@woodsandbarclay no i mean exhaust a/r
@@Gazika1984 I'm not sure what you mean but here is the turbo we are using
dieselpumpuk.com/products/quickspool-race-kit
I have the same engine in my w210 car, what is the minimum budjet to increase the hp to 350 or 400
Expensive. Hahaha. Seriously I don't know I'll have to get out my spreadsheet and go back over all of my costs but if you want to go fast you have to spend money.
@@woodsandbarclay 😅, thank you
Very informative thank you. I was hoping to see how you kept chain tension on the sprocket (floating in free space) during the 120° crankshaft rotation steps
Did you un-wire it, hand guide the chain/sprocket, then re-wire?
Yes we removed the wire and I just held the chain on the sprocket while Eli turned the crank.
Heyy. How i van find. Bosh pump for 606. And that evrithing Parts?
I recommend joining some Facebook groups or Internet forums and asking around.
I am curious on the fuel injector fuel line piggie back and my #6 injector the one line is blocked off and I don t know where that fuel line goes to
It's blocked off because it doesn't go anywhere. Those are the diesel return lines you're talking about they're not called piggie back lines. The function of the diesel return hose is to send unburnt diesel back to the fuel filter housing and then back to the tank. The number six injector only needs to send it from one side so the other side is plugged off ;)
Thanks for the help.i just got the e300 last weekend .had little knowledge from dieselpumpuk 3 months ago you tune videos on ecm tuning and now I am fully devoted on making a sleeper nothing crazy i am stoked for you though.
The word you are looking for is lifter buckets or tappets. No shims for the 60X engine series. They are hydraulic/self adjusting. They are known to collapse on older high mileage engines. They get sludge & deposits trapped inside and stick. Had put all new ones in my 603. Being a 12V engine it would cause a misfire. A little Seafoam in the oil would temporarily restore function but ultimately they will need replaced. My 606 will get all new one before assembly.
Ahhh thank you for the explanation!
You should keep the camshaft cap #3 and #6 tied to the end after removing all the caps you should unsecured the 3 and 6 at the same time one turn for each bolt. Or you might break the camshaft that what the manufacturer says.
We just unbolted all of them evenly and it worked great. Thank you for the advice I'll try that method next time.
I need the part number on the injector piggieback fuel line that are braided. I am restoring my e300 to drive it as a daily and start saving for my build for 250 hp anything bigger with no forged internals can cause big problems.half of what you are installing I will be saving up for
www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/6050780581.htm?pn=605-078-05-81-MBZ
Cool video.
Hey what's up Scott glad you enjoyed the video!
This is a very difficult engine to work on but there rock solid engines but difficult doing internal work
They're not too complicated once you know how they work
What year om606 is best or more reliable
1998 or 1999 are the same engine. Those are the only two years they are available in the US cars.
@@woodsandbarclay 🤙
Mercedes free courses.thanks bro
I'm glad you like the videos thanks for watching!
Do you know where one can get a new harmonic balancer? Great video!
Have you tried calling your Mercedes dealer that's the first place I would check.
Awesome. Does Eli have an instagram, Facebook, or RUclips for this car build? I want to stay up to date in his car. Thanks
Here is a link to Eli's RUclips channel where you can see all about his Tacoma om606 swap.
ruclips.net/video/O3dzhf__Xsw/видео.html
It's going to be a beast! 😁
Yes!
I was wondering if anyone has built a heavy aluminum intake base, to fit a hell kitten super charger, or LSA supercharger, caddy supercharger, and run a pair of turbos, off 3cylinders each, and a large intercooler, with a large air to water intercooler under the supercharger, possibly attach the crank pulley by making basically a large fender washer from 3/8" - 1/2" steel plate, tig it to the pulley, with 1/4" bolts in the perimeter of the welded in plate. Set it up in a lathe, face it off, the crank bolt should fit between the the shoulder of the bolt, if not, lathe it off a bit, keeping it large as possible. Use a gallon tank for the inter cooler, as well as a couple large trans or oil coolers to keep the water cool, use a tank so ice can be used! Use a dual in, and single out intercooler, with twin turbos that spool at higher rpm, boosting the boost! Forcing about 1bar on top of the supercharger, with it making 1-1.25 bar! Of inlet air, that should always be dense, and cool, (under 100°F @ 2bar surely under 150°F peak!) And can probably handle a good bit additional boost without temperature climbing greatly, with turbos large enough to boost on top of the supercharger, cranking full boost, it should do 25-30psi, then a larger crank pulley, (being bolted to the steel plate 'fender washer' using 1/4" or m6 studs, with aluminum spacer if required, machine a couple pulleys, from aluminum, with a pair of tensioners for the dedicated supercharger belt, maybe the studs can be tapped into the damper , but I think tig welding the steel to the pulley/ damper would be better, drilling could weaken the damper, it should create a monster, it would be a good idea to swap to H beam rods, about . 020" longer if possible, or deck the block to get the piston to zero deck, ceramic coat the piston, the head, exhaust ports, after a mild porting, build a stainless header/ turbo manifold, with 1/2" flanges, from 1.25"-1.5" tubing, heated and oval to fit the ports short as possible, with about 3mm wall tubing, and a pair of t-3/t-4 flanges, with tabs for bracing, or they can be cut if not needed. The large supercharger intended for a 6.0L+ engine, should spin slow producing less heat, and basically mounted on top of the cam cover! It may cost clearance, but it should be spicy and rowdy!! Capable of boost at idle, Mays well add a 25-50HP nitrous kit, using 12 tiny nozzles aimed down the intake ports. Basically make a spray bar that runs through the intake 3/16" tubing, with . 005" -.010" holes fed from both ends! Use a restrictor at the solenoid, use bulkhead fitting, with ferals to clamp on the tubing as the -3 -4 fitting is tightened. Using matching hose, going to the solenoid with a purge before the 'Y,' then possibly a bit of hose then the activation solenoid, (the purge solenoid is attached to a tee!) With a -4 hose going to the intercooler to another tube filled with holes, to cool the water just a bit more! Using -6, 3/8" hose, making for a decent flow, going to a single 5/8-3/4" the coolant is split into two oil coolers, then back to a single line! It should make tons of power, and not smoke, having a pilot injection to quiet the engine down a bit would be nice, the use of 100% methanol injection may do that, use a 5 gallon tank for methanol, use a set of injectors, like it's a gas engine, use a simple pwm control possibly a crank trigger, to fire each injector as the intake valve opens, during idle, to 2500 rpm. Then a button to turn on at anytime, run at 60-80 psi, using stock 3.8L injector size, from a gas /: flex fuel engine, run either 100% methanol, or 50/50 methanol/ ethanol mix, it will probably be 45/55, ethanol/methanol. Use a pwm with a microcontroller, to pulse the injection about 6x fast at idle, then just 2-3x for longer duration at 2500-3000 rpm, then at 4500-5500+/- just on for fraction of a second with the push of a button, possibly running 1-2 psi at idle, and 8-10 by 1000rpm, then the turbos start singing around 2500-2800 really making boost by 3500, where it should turn to a rocket ship!!... The supercharger should make 1.2-2 bar at 2500 alone, with the turbos starting to boost that, upwards of 4, bar! And under150°F so fairly dense, nearly 60psi boost, with a 6dpeed transmission, it should be awesome! 😎
Jesus Christ man that was a hell of a comment!
How much does that engine cost?
I need one
To get one of these engines you really need to find a 98 or 99 e300 and buy the entire car and pull the engine out. You can also buy a used engine on eBay but I wouldn't recommend doing this because you really don't know the condition. The engine in this video has been heavily modified so this one would be worth probably 5 or $6,000 by this point. But you can buy a used car or used engine for somewhere around the $3,000 mark if your patient and wait for the right deal. This engine only had 95,000 miles on it when we bought it and the car cost $6,500 that it came out of.
Belle vidéo, est-ce qu’on va le voir en fonction ?
oui, vous verrez certainement les vidéos lorsque la voiture sera terminée, assurez-vous simplement de vous abonner à la chaîne RUclips afin d'être averti. Ce sera fait très bientôt
hi again!where can i buy these valve springs?thanks..i really need it also..
I bought them from km cams. kmcams.com/
@@woodsandbarclay thanks a lot!!!As i heared also 2jz spring valves can be installed,some US guys made it.
Hi. I wonder how you did the rear half axle.
Would you respond in a video? I love dis video!
If you go to my RUclips channel and scroll back to the videos from last year you will see the complete suspension build out. Or you can probably search RUclips for e300 racecar
@@woodsandbarclay Thank You! i found it.😃
@@fincs16 I'm glad you found it I was looking up the link
ruclips.net/video/8DtBps-QTzI/видео.html
Hey, you should ignore those Bosch injectors made in India, you had to put a Monark ones.
I just went to the Mercedes dealer and bought these brand new. I normally use Monark when I'm rebuilding my om617 engines. However these are from the dealership so we'll give it a shot and see how it works.
What's the water pump redirect mod do?
It's supposedly pumps extra coolant back to cylinder 5 to help keep it cool. Apparently that's a weak spot in these engines.
Did you upgrade the pistons with the set from dieselpumpuk?
No we did not modify any of the internals.
@@woodsandbarclay do you recommend upgrading the pistons
Links for all those goodies?
DieselpumpUK website ;)
The ‘Priest approves 👍
Hahaha thank you
Where is the new video!! I cant wait! :D
Ha! The project is sitting in the back of the shop while I'm working on customer cars.
@@woodsandbarclay hehe nice, l cant wait to hear the beast, how much power do you expect?
@@r9cheverny433 we're going for the 500 horsepower mark
How do I get ahold of
You guys?
www.woodsandbarclay.com
Alice in chains 😈
😎
How much he charge to come d
I got the friend rate ;)
@@woodsandbarclay I respect that everybody aint able
We are both very able mechanics so the job came out great.
U right and I'm greatful for you guys specially living in NC where there's nobody to help
podstawowy blad przy dokrecaniu napinacza...
:)
how you doing bro, i just want to know where are you located in GA , i want to do the same work to my 0m606 engine e300 , let me know .
Hey the shop is in Roswell Georgia about 15 minutes north of Atlanta just outside the perimeter. Our number and email address is on our website www.woodsandbarclay.com
LOL !!!!!!! YOU JUST NEED TO PUT COMPRES AIR TO THE INJECTOR PORTS AND THE AIR WILL KEEP THE VALV UP !!! SIMPLE
Yeah I'm familiar with that method I just didn't have an adapter to put into the air compressor. So we just did it the other way.
Nice explained video, couple of comments, crank pully bolt not tight enough, see this video, 200Nm plus 90 deg tighter, see this video ruclips.net/video/2ybRI1wKafo/видео.html also when you take the sump off better to do it when it is at the bottom so that no dirty oil or bits in the sump drop into the engine, cheers Tim
Awesome thank you Tim. I was also concerned about the torque on that crank bolt. However my Ingersoll Rand impact can easily do 200 newton meters. So I think it'll be fine. If I'm on the racetrack and it flies off and blows me up I'll be sure to let you know hahaha.