Don’t feel bad about taking nearly a year, a lot of us garage warriors spend 2 or 3 years doing engine swaps/builds. Recently finished an ls1 in my vs and man the amount of road blocks I hit just from lack of knowledge was stupid
Most garage warriors have a job lol, we done an AU Barra swap in 4 weekends 😂 which is 2 months but realistically it was only 8 days. Imagine if we didn’t work we would of had it done in a week.
@@thelazygamer0473 yeah it’s awesome man, it’s just a stock motor made 290hp, manual with 3:9 diff gears goes hard, will be a weapon with a cam and 400hp
10 years and my Rd Yamaha is almost ready. My ZC Fairlane has been off the road for 15 years and my bathroom has taken 3 years- my truck is clean but it needs a crossflow 6 or a Barra
Rexton this build is amazing and a big inspiration, I can resonate really well with everything you said in this video man. So much more goes into it than people see, keep it up man one of the best in the business.
Should be no surprise that there's lots of little things when engine swapping, Needing supporting mods to make bigger power surely isn't a reason to never do a Barra swap..? Cool swap, just looks like a common build with a few teething issues and high expectations 🤘
Just shows how much experience and having the right gear counts for when it takes you a year to do what a good shop will do in a month. Well done for sticking with it!
I've been wanting to put a barra in a car since I drove the first gen Tickfords. If you've got a classic (pre 89), don't underestimate the genius of the Crossflow six, aloy head and that tiny Weber carb can put out heaps more than seppo or chanuk V8s
Absolute number 1 thing you need to do is put metal hard line fuel lines through your whole fuel system! If you don't the continued use of E85 slowly perishes the rubber within the hoses and over time of many cycles returning to the fuel tank micro rubber particulates will bypass the fuel sock and deposit out on the pumping mechanism (pumps get extremely warm) and then there is an initially slow degradation process that starts to accelerate rubber deposits (remember like attracts like) and eventually the pump creases to work because it's gummed up and permanently clogged! Also don't leave E85 for 2 weeks if you can avoid it? Especially in a tank that isn't full to the brim otherwise moisture within the air will absorb into the fuel turning it into gasoline jel. The more empty your tank the faster this is likely to occur! Guys that are doing E85 builds almost always run a dual fuel system with a small E85 tank up front in the engine bay and running normal premium 98 in the normal tank. They use up the E85 in the smaller tank as a preventative measure to spoiling the fuel they use to race? Always running fresh E85 to minimise the chance of water contamination and poor performance. They run the normal pump after they race to ensure no E85 is on the fuel lines. Fuel coagulation can be a slow compounding effect akin to clogged arteries in people. Good luck with it all Bara the world!
Editing was great. In my opinion best vid i have ever watched on youtube. Reminded me of early episodes of wheeler dealers, where they actually explain how to work on a car. Keep it up man.
When the lead from the battery to starter motor gets too hot. It don't carry current meaning she won't start. Until the wire cools.. it's common on the commodore vl 5lrs. It might help..
Always good to beef up battery to starter leads in worked engines. They draw more amps and need less resistance. Also possibly a heavy duty starter motor too.
A lot of big youtubers don't show the whole story. They probably ordered parts a year ago and wait for all of them to show up before banging out a short series showing the build in a couple days. Makes a swap seem simple but a lot if custom parts can take months to even show up.
Had to replace a starter in the misses fg because of this exact reason, once the starter got heat into it would give up but let it sit to cool and it would crank over, for the $250 new I'd personally replace it
Rexi you’re getting a lot of love from your supporters, so here’s a bit more it’s not like you have spent every waking hour on the E/Barra swap you still have had the demands of a weekly feed that takes time along with a life away from a go pro or smart phone. Any new updates on whatever is appreciated by us all that follow you, relax bruz in it for the journey ✊️
I gave up on my 2010 FG XR6 and modifications,after spending 11 grand on the purchase price plus another 6 grand on mods and not even getting to the turbo stage i started having transmission problems with only 110,000 ks on the clock. Little did i know it had a 5 speed rubbish transmission in it and not the ZF 6 speed,servos started slipping between gears. Took it to a transmission specialist and the guy said these french made 5r55s transmissions go through servos every 60,000 ks ! I could have done a zf swap but i was looking at about 6 grand plus so i sold the fckn money pit for 14 grand and swore id never buy another ford of any kind ! They are continuous money pits. I now own a toyota that's reliable, easy to work on,cheap replacement parts, well made and designed, cheap on fuel unlike the fuel guzzling xr6. After owning a toyota i will never buy any other brand car because theres nothing out there thats is equal to it.
Thats the reason why cars with serious power have tailshaft loops, so that if it lets go it will prevent it from coming through the car. Though having a beefier tailshaft is a dood idea and extra insurance, I would use both.
Great video... Would like to see this EF get a nice set of wheels (stockies for example) and coil overs... It will look like a nice and clean sleeper...
Fun fact - ft86 shaft bolt removal almost killed me and a mate with a wrench snapping trying to get a crusty bolt loose (after driving through a few years and a summer of hell).
If you think this build was difficult it's average unfortunately people like ur self probably don't get that all are difficult the biggest difference is the lancers for example are a well developed chassis engine ect the Barra is much newer as far as development goes. I remember when builds took years bc there were minimal people who were sharing wat works and wat doesn't
@@corybice6520 if you’re going through with building the internals and all the welding for the turbo yourself and actually being cautious it can take ya a while
Bro my EL Barra took 3 and a half years and I never even completed it, gave up and sold it, you've done beyond so well with the Barra swap man, you've done heaps in the time you've had it *also, he's pretty pricey but I HIGHLY, HIGHLY suggest MR. BTR, he's absolutely awesome with BTRs, then all you'll need is the stall and a good trans cooler with it's own stand alone fan on a switch, you'll be right for up to 1000hp depending on the stage you get it built to*
hey rex, love from sydney! I have that exact same starting issue with my EP3. it cold starts no issue but once I drive it and the car is at operating temperature and I turn it off and go shop or grab a feed for anywhere between 30 mins to 2 hours (even worse on a hot day) it won't start at all. no crank or anything. all electronics work, lights work, headunit works, dash reads temp and oil. it usually does turn on once ive waited the hours and the car has somewhat cooled down. (running pump 98) I've heard from others that it may be a faulty starter and ive been told to whack it with a hammer but I have no clearance to do so. let me know if you find the issue!!! this shit has been killing me and destroyed all my motivation to fixing and modding the car :(
Ay, don't worry about taking some time with this build. Sometimes stuff gets delayed and needs some more time, I'm sure everyone can relate in that regard haha. New editing style is looking mint! Road to 100k baby :)
I can't wait to see the finished product. I think I'm having issues with my ground or grounds on my 2000 Camry LE. Got to take it to a mechanic I can trust. To see what grounds I need to repair and get it fixed. I just hope AutoZone didn't give me a bad battery. It's still under warranty.
It's not just turning a 4.0 Natural Aspirated Engine to Turbo Charge Engine. Change wires and Computer of the car also. Take out old gear box and put in 6 speed ZF Auto Gear Box. Put in OEM Torque Converter that comes in XR6 Turbo. Put in OEM Rear Diff. Put in OEM Drive Train. Change Fuel line to Bigger Fuel Lines that come in xr6 Turbo and Fuel pump. Also Engine needs to be opened and standard pistons and springs taken out and bigger ones put in ( Camm the Engine ). Take out oil pan and put in new oil pan that has the holds 6.8 litres of engine oil from older 5 - 5.5 Litres. Standard injectors taken out and OEM injectors that came in F6 Typhoons put in. Pretty much all the OEM components that came with XR6 Turbo or F6 put in to your natural aspirated 4.0 Litre. Forgot to mention OEM Garrett Turbo Charge and line machines in the engine to pump oil into turbo. There are performance places that can make a replicia of a Barra. It's not cheap
Can you please speak English. Like others have said if you have everything you need you can Barra swap an EF Falcon over a weekend with a few mates helping.💯
Do these have a TFI module, if it does check that for the reason why the car won’t start when warm … great video first time watching. . Another clever guy on yt has a channel called Backyard speedway venture … worth a look …
from experience in doing the Fg turbo engine with ZF6 into an EL, I did offer a ton of times to help run you through it and not make the same mistakes i did doing the build... I'm glad youre still going with the build though, surprised you didnt go 2 piece shaft, i had to due to length. Feel free to message back and chat about the build on insta, still got some info that will help you
nothing wrong with a btr box if you do research you will see what they are capable of alot of garbage gets said about them but the ppl who say it are fools especially for the power he wants zfs need to be built or they break simple as that btr you use bits of different year boxes and either a manual btr control box or have the valve body modified(easy) and have the box tuned properly and she will live ask me how i know
Are you going to stay with the BTR trans? If so why mate , it's about $4500 for a built BTR plus $2000 for a good highstall converter , that same money will get you a Built Th400 from VPW and converter , they also have the bellhousing to suit the Barra Turbo400 . It's much more reliable than a built BTR , yes they can take 400 kilowatts at the flywheel , but not for long , the Turbo400 can take that forever plus more . I'm a Ford nut myself , and have owned many tuff AU's but the BTR have never lasted longer than a few (2) months under boost , even tried using making them Full manual , using the Shift kits electronic box , big oil cooler and Thermo fan . But still could keep them alive . Don't put yourself through that pain mate , just go Turbo400 you will be happier , and love the car more .
not true mate ppl say "built btr" but dont know what the hell is even in a "built btr" theres basically no such thing nothing like a th400 or zf and the power figure you quote they can handle again is wrong my ba xr6t makes over 450kw at the wheels and 1586nm torque management switched off my car has been built since 2013 i run it at the drags regularly easy 10s 138mph and ive never brojen a bix yet i only wear the band so i lose 2nd and 4th i still drive 160km home $500 for a kit one day and its done and i have once before just bought the band as the clutches were fine the info is out there its a shame young blokes of today dont research enough and end up starting rumours that arent true its funny my mates 12k zf wears too cost more to re fresh and you need upgraded everything btrs have a place if you dont want to make 1000hp
Those ignition switches are dodgy, I've had to swap the collom stick a bunch of times in EL Falcons like 20 years ago because inside the key barrel the metal piece would crack ,,, might work every now and then till it gets worse and worse. The metal piece is what turns the plastic barrel that starts the engine but you can dismantle and turn it with a screw driver 🤫
I agree. Barra swap waste of money and time. I have a tb45 patrol. They are a tough engine. When you work out the cost to do a barra swap I can get all parts I need for Tb and have a strong original car. They are way overated. I sold my last greentop . Bon voyage lol
Barras overrated in general. People think theyre cheap to build power on where in reality they're not. Also need to make 400kw+ for them to even run decent 1/4m passes. Not a very good engine imo but each to there own
@@victorpeirce4753weak pistons, valve springs, rods, they sound like crap. Expensive to build on, makes power but not very fast in the real world. There heavy as well adding so much weight to the car. There's much better engines kit there, especially other 6 cylinder ones. Barras a poor man's rb26/30 engine, it's a fake attempt at trying to go fast and sound good.
You have the wrong attitude. Building projects is an opportunity to learn new skills , and “proper” way to do things. I spent 3 years worth of weekends fully rebuilding my boat and fitting a Mercury V8 outboard
Yo young dude..... You remind me of when I was younger? Also don't feel bad about living with your parents dude. Honestly there is no judgement on you with that. Right now in this society it's fucken tough and seemingly only getting tougher? The best way to fight inflation is to do as you are doing by learning everything yourself. Going through the paces and discovering all the little niche finicky things not spoken about.....those hurdles overcome are all contextual knowledge that is in a database that you own! Trust me I was your age once and did stupid shit like buy a 13B turbo RX7 when I was fucking uni student? WTF? Yeah I learnt how that thing all worked and became an FC RX7 encyclopaedia because I was too stingey to afford to pay someone else to work on it? The fireballs and flames were spectacular way of showing off the correlating side effect of simultaneous burning of the wallet for some strange reason I could never seem find out the cause? I became the mechanic for my school friends who were also poor that couldn't afford a mechanic so I would do (often multiple cars on a Saturday) work on mates cars for mates rates so I could afford to go cruising in a rotary on Saturday night? I was working on optimist thinking of 'in a perfect world' type thinking and apply it to my life and convincing myself 'don't fucking worry about it dude, you got this' lol. Full time Universit, 2 casual jobs, body building routine, girl friend and modifying the car that I use to commute? Hmmmm I'm wondering how this escaped the logic loop hmm oh that's right boost + rotary = super fun happy time! Taking the car off the road and going all out Magabuild no stone left unturned was probably the mistake I regret? Everything works perfect optimists world! It's the reality that is broken and not living up to it's end of the deal brother. Through unforseen circumstances it was the project never to be completed? So it's going to have to go now and be someone else's to finish...... Cause my dad left me his XR6 a turbo ute that's in need of restoration? A rotary with today's fuel prices would make me as poor as I was at University FFS I would cry everytime I saw flames on decel
@@soundsolutions cheers dude. Nah it' was my dad's ute(He left it to me in his will) I'm putting a camper on the back and territory front diff etc to make 4x4 and then I'm heading out bush somewhere to go camping and travelling the country?
Don’t feel bad about taking nearly a year, a lot of us garage warriors spend 2 or 3 years doing engine swaps/builds. Recently finished an ls1 in my vs and man the amount of road blocks I hit just from lack of knowledge was stupid
Most garage warriors have a job lol, we done an AU Barra swap in 4 weekends 😂 which is 2 months but realistically it was only 8 days. Imagine if we didn’t work we would of had it done in a week.
Plus having to wait for parts
How do you like the ls1 in your vs? I’m debating whether to 308 5l or ls1-3 swap my vs ute
@@thelazygamer0473 yeah it’s awesome man, it’s just a stock motor made 290hp, manual with 3:9 diff gears goes hard, will be a weapon with a cam and 400hp
10 years and my Rd Yamaha is almost ready. My ZC Fairlane has been off the road for 15 years and my bathroom has taken 3 years- my truck is clean but it needs a crossflow 6 or a Barra
Rexton this build is amazing and a big inspiration, I can resonate really well with everything you said in this video man. So much more goes into it than people see, keep it up man one of the best in the business.
Should be no surprise that there's lots of little things when engine swapping, Needing supporting mods to make bigger power surely isn't a reason to never do a Barra swap..? Cool swap, just looks like a common build with a few teething issues and high expectations 🤘
Just shows how much experience and having the right gear counts for when it takes you a year to do what a good shop will do in a month. Well done for sticking with it!
A good shop can do that in a few hours... a 15yo apprentice did a full big block blown v8 swap on a vk in a couple days..
I wanna see the patrol get the bara swap
Ls swap
Rb30det
Ls swap it like old mate said
Not gonna lie I kinda of want to
@@RexH which one Barra ls or rb?
I've been wanting to put a barra in a car since I drove the first gen Tickfords. If you've got a classic (pre 89), don't underestimate the genius of the Crossflow six, aloy head and that tiny Weber carb can put out heaps more than seppo or chanuk V8s
Absolute number 1 thing you need to do is put metal hard line fuel lines through your whole fuel system!
If you don't the continued use of E85 slowly perishes the rubber within the hoses and over time of many cycles returning to the fuel tank micro rubber particulates will bypass the fuel sock and deposit out on the pumping mechanism (pumps get extremely warm) and then there is an initially slow degradation process that starts to accelerate rubber deposits (remember like attracts like) and eventually the pump creases to work because it's gummed up and permanently clogged!
Also don't leave E85 for 2 weeks if you can avoid it? Especially in a tank that isn't full to the brim otherwise moisture within the air will absorb into the fuel turning it into gasoline jel. The more empty your tank the faster this is likely to occur!
Guys that are doing E85 builds almost always run a dual fuel system with a small E85 tank up front in the engine bay and running normal premium 98 in the normal tank. They use up the E85 in the smaller tank as a preventative measure to spoiling the fuel they use to race?
Always running fresh E85 to minimise the chance of water contamination and poor performance.
They run the normal pump after they race to ensure no E85 is on the fuel lines. Fuel coagulation can be a slow compounding effect akin to clogged arteries in people.
Good luck with it all Bara the world!
When Zanes falcon took a shit on the dyno.it was the shaft in the btr Trans not the drive shaft
the skills learnt are worth it, just look at the quality of the lancer
Editing was great. In my opinion best vid i have ever watched on youtube.
Reminded me of early episodes of wheeler dealers, where they actually explain how to work on a car. Keep it up man.
When the lead from the battery to starter motor gets too hot. It don't carry current meaning she won't start. Until the wire cools.. it's common on the commodore vl 5lrs. It might help..
Always good to beef up battery to starter leads in worked engines. They draw more amps and need less resistance. Also possibly a heavy duty starter motor too.
A lot of big youtubers don't show the whole story. They probably ordered parts a year ago and wait for all of them to show up before banging out a short series showing the build in a couple days. Makes a swap seem simple but a lot if custom parts can take months to even show up.
Had to replace a starter in the misses fg because of this exact reason, once the starter got heat into it would give up but let it sit to cool and it would crank over, for the $250 new I'd personally replace it
New editing style is clean bro
Yorak ! Good seeing you in the comments bro
@@TURBOTRISTO you too Tristan
Proud if you man, I’m 3 months into mine and nowhere near done either
the warm start thing is the battery garanteed. check alternator of course
sounds like a lose flexplate to me
If your starter motor is close to your exhaust it's probably overheating and starts once it cools down
Best thing was the gjdriveline sticker on the shaft! I'm biased as we do all of there vinyl/stickers. 😅
Hopefully the sticker doesn't put the shaft out of balance.😆
@@victorpeirce4753 don’t think 000.024g sticker is gonna effect the balance to much
@@unfavoured Ever heard of sarcasm ?...
Rexi you’re getting a lot of love from your supporters, so here’s a bit more it’s not like you have spent every waking hour on the E/Barra swap you still have had the demands of a weekly feed that takes time along with a life away from a go pro or smart phone. Any new updates on whatever is appreciated by us all that follow you, relax bruz in it for the journey ✊️
Get a better high torque starter and make sure you have a good battery there mate!!!!
I gave up on my 2010 FG XR6 and modifications,after spending 11 grand on the purchase price plus another 6 grand on mods and not even getting to the turbo stage i started having transmission problems with only 110,000 ks on the clock. Little did i know it had a 5 speed rubbish transmission in it and not the ZF 6 speed,servos started slipping between gears. Took it to a transmission specialist and the guy said these french made 5r55s transmissions go through servos every 60,000 ks ! I could have done a zf swap but i was looking at about 6 grand plus so i sold the fckn money pit for 14 grand and swore id never buy another ford of any kind ! They are continuous money pits. I now own a toyota that's reliable, easy to work on,cheap replacement parts, well made and designed, cheap on fuel unlike the fuel guzzling xr6. After owning a toyota i will never buy any other brand car because theres nothing out there thats is equal to it.
Check out "Scotty" on RUclips from Texas. Great mechanical tips, he also praises Toyota as being the best car manufacturer on the planet.😉
@andyharwood64 yeah I have been following Scotty kilhmer for years.
should get a highmount bro
Should of RB swapped it instead 🤣
love your work. love that engine. Its the best 6 for sure. be careful on public roads as kids n families everywhere. cheers.
Thats the reason why cars with serious power have tailshaft loops, so that if it lets go it will prevent it from coming through the car. Though having a beefier tailshaft is a dood idea and extra insurance, I would use both.
Won't start and u got to tap under the dash? Smart lock module on the way out.
Yeah bro, Smartshield is a bastard of a problem in Aussie Fords.
whens it getting lowered and on some hotboy wheels
editing is really good. worth it.
Definitely wanna see you turbo the mighty au, intech the world babyyyyy👌🏾👌🏾 wun dun dun dun
Don’t worry Rex h it will all be worth it at the end 💪🏼
cranking amp on your battery ?
Great video... Would like to see this EF get a nice set of wheels (stockies for example) and coil overs... It will look like a nice and clean sleeper...
external gate the chaser asap
Fun fact - ft86 shaft bolt removal almost killed me and a mate with a wrench snapping trying to get a crusty bolt loose (after driving through a few years and a summer of hell).
Loved that bit when the phone rang ,and the bleep sounds ,its the little things, whole show was great
Not a ford bloke but no start when warm ,if starter it's the solenoid, or it's the crank angle sensor,if dizzy it's hall effect sensor
lose flex plate
the not starting issue sounds like a grounding problem try adding another ground wire from it or the engine to the body
If you think this build was difficult it's average unfortunately people like ur self probably don't get that all are difficult the biggest difference is the lancers for example are a well developed chassis engine ect the Barra is much newer as far as development goes. I remember when builds took years bc there were minimal people who were sharing wat works and wat doesn't
My Man, the fuel leak is a minor problem in comparison to holding onto your licence😂. Lookout bro
💯, be careful young bro. Cops watch RUclips too.
Try changing the starter motor
With your skills now you could do a barra swap in a month or 2 if u start with all the parts. Proves the skills learnt along the way are what matter
A month or 2? Barra swapping an ef is a weekend job
@@corybice6520 if you’re going through with building the internals and all the welding for the turbo yourself and actually being cautious it can take ya a while
If you relocated the battery it seems like the leads are not long enough too much resistance when hot
Bro my EL Barra took 3 and a half years and I never even completed it, gave up and sold it, you've done beyond so well with the Barra swap man, you've done heaps in the time you've had it *also, he's pretty pricey but I HIGHLY, HIGHLY suggest MR. BTR, he's absolutely awesome with BTRs, then all you'll need is the stall and a good trans cooler with it's own stand alone fan on a switch, you'll be right for up to 1000hp depending on the stage you get it built to*
remember when I started watching you and subbed when you only had 4k subs, when you first bought the chaser, crazy progress bro. So cool to see
What’s the approx cost to turbo a Xr6 bf if you took it to someone, parts and labour or would it just be cheaper/easier to buy a turbo engine?
hey rex, love from sydney!
I have that exact same starting issue with my EP3. it cold starts no issue but once I drive it and the car is at operating temperature and I turn it off and go shop or grab a feed for anywhere between 30 mins to 2 hours (even worse on a hot day) it won't start at all. no crank or anything. all electronics work, lights work, headunit works, dash reads temp and oil. it usually does turn on once ive waited the hours and the car has somewhat cooled down. (running pump 98) I've heard from others that it may be a faulty starter and ive been told to whack it with a hammer but I have no clearance to do so. let me know if you find the issue!!! this shit has been killing me and destroyed all my motivation to fixing and modding the car :(
Ep3 s are awesome !
Once wires get too hot. They fail to carry current.
Nice work bench
"Can you push start an auto?"
Can you push at 70kmh?
Definitely your best vid so far on this build
Check all your grounds and battery pos connections for that starter .
Ay, don't worry about taking some time with this build. Sometimes stuff gets delayed and needs some more time, I'm sure everyone can relate in that regard haha.
New editing style is looking mint! Road to 100k baby :)
I can't wait to see the finished product. I think I'm having issues with my ground or grounds on my 2000 Camry LE. Got to take it to a mechanic I can trust. To see what grounds I need to repair and get it fixed. I just hope AutoZone didn't give me a bad battery. It's still under warranty.
@A. Melbs Thanks much for answering. Yeah that's what I thought too. It's a Camry. I will get it fixed. Have too.
It's not just turning a 4.0 Natural Aspirated Engine to Turbo Charge Engine. Change wires and Computer of the car also. Take out old gear box and put in 6 speed ZF Auto Gear Box. Put in OEM Torque Converter that comes in XR6 Turbo. Put in OEM Rear Diff. Put in OEM Drive Train. Change Fuel line to Bigger Fuel Lines that come in xr6 Turbo and Fuel pump. Also Engine needs to be opened and standard pistons and springs taken out and bigger ones put in ( Camm the Engine ). Take out oil pan and put in new oil pan that has the holds 6.8 litres of engine oil from older 5 - 5.5 Litres. Standard injectors taken out and OEM injectors that came in F6 Typhoons put in. Pretty much all the OEM components that came with XR6 Turbo or F6 put in to your natural aspirated 4.0 Litre. Forgot to mention OEM Garrett Turbo Charge and line machines in the engine to pump oil into turbo. There are performance places that can make a replicia of a Barra. It's not cheap
Can you please speak English. Like others have said if you have everything you need you can Barra swap an EF Falcon over a weekend with a few mates helping.💯
Don’t loose ya legs Rex 😂😂❤
Keep it up bro you'll get it all done, your enthusiasm and motivated attitude will get you there. 🇭🇲👍
Oh and money....$
Sounds like batterie or a bad connection that connect the starter to the batterie might be broken somewhere or loose
Do these have a TFI module, if it does check that for the reason why the car won’t start when warm … great video first time watching. . Another clever guy on yt has a channel called
Backyard speedway venture … worth a look …
from experience in doing the Fg turbo engine with ZF6 into an EL, I did offer a ton of times to help run you through it and not make the same mistakes i did doing the build...
I'm glad youre still going with the build though, surprised you didnt go 2 piece shaft, i had to due to length. Feel free to message back and chat about the build on insta, still got some info that will help you
nothing wrong with a btr box if you do research you will see what they are capable of alot of garbage gets said about them but the ppl who say it are fools especially for the power he wants zfs need to be built or they break simple as that btr you use bits of different year boxes and either a manual btr control box or have the valve body modified(easy) and have the box tuned properly and she will live ask me how i know
I make 400rwkw with stock converter stock gearbox and stock tailshaft. BarraT in EA Falcon
And people cry when I list a 2010 G6E Turbo making 640hp and only 40'000km on the clock for 65k ..... This is the reason, shit costs money!!
Love ya videos mate nothing like a good barra keep it up
Legend!
Are you going to stay with the BTR trans? If so why mate , it's about $4500 for a built BTR plus $2000 for a good highstall converter , that same money will get you a Built Th400 from VPW and converter , they also have the bellhousing to suit the Barra Turbo400 . It's much more reliable than a built BTR , yes they can take 400 kilowatts at the flywheel , but not for long , the Turbo400 can take that forever plus more . I'm a Ford nut myself , and have owned many tuff AU's but the BTR have never lasted longer than a few (2) months under boost , even tried using making them Full manual , using the Shift kits electronic box , big oil cooler and Thermo fan . But still could keep them alive . Don't put yourself through that pain mate , just go Turbo400 you will be happier , and love the car more .
not true mate ppl say "built btr" but dont know what the hell is even in a "built btr" theres basically no such thing nothing like a th400 or zf and the power figure you quote they can handle again is wrong my ba xr6t makes over 450kw at the wheels and 1586nm torque management switched off my car has been built since 2013 i run it at the drags regularly easy 10s 138mph and ive never brojen a bix yet i only wear the band so i lose 2nd and 4th i still drive 160km home $500 for a kit one day and its done and i have once before just bought the band as the clutches were fine the info is out there its a shame young blokes of today dont research enough and end up starting rumours that arent true its funny my mates 12k zf wears too cost more to re fresh and you need upgraded everything btrs have a place if you dont want to make 1000hp
my mate has a s13 and he is 13months in to rb26 swap (was sr20) and his just got it ready for the tuners a week ago
I have about 15mm play on my tailshaft.. Can u have any play at all
Glad i stuck with my sohc 4.0 lol
Loving the voice over type content bro
I liked this style of edit, the segments were nice :)
Hey Champ, did you notice a big difference in Acceleration compared to a BA XR6 Turbo with simmilar power?
That weight advantage must be massive
I’ll stick to my xh xr6 single cam red AU engine in manual gearbox in my Ute
BARRA THE WORLD
Those ignition switches are dodgy, I've had to swap the collom stick a bunch of times in EL Falcons like 20 years ago because inside the key barrel the metal piece would crack ,,, might work every now and then till it gets worse and worse. The metal piece is what turns the plastic barrel that starts the engine but you can dismantle and turn it with a screw driver 🤫
The lad recording in the car looks like he's related to Nathan cleary
New editing style is crazy 🔥
It’s your starter motor going mine did the same when it was was hot
nah his flex plate is lose i can hear it and its putting pressure on the teeth
Dont let this guy talk you out of doing a barra swap. Its a pretty easy job
im up in queensland planning on doing a barra swap into a cortina. but its gunna take me a good year maybe even 2.
It's really straight forward we did it in a weekend
Hey mate, have you gone over ALL of you battery relocation terminals/joins?
Does the Barra have a distributor plug? If so check that out with the starting issues my VL RB30 had the same starting issue
Coil over plug engine mate no distributor
@@JoeSmith-jp7bk ah ok,
How have i´ve not seen this channel before?! Instant Sub! :D
Can tell you now its something to do with voltage going to the starter motor motor
lose flex plate listen to it the teeth are binding heard it before they better check the flexplate bolts before it snaps off and ruins the box
MAF , intake air temp sensor could be ur problem
Hey Rex! if you need a starter i've got one for a btr that came off a barra
you did it quickly tbh
Take that Ford And Chev It . LS would have swapped in better
When are the lancer shirts going out🙃
From a similar experience, it's the starter
I agree. Barra swap waste of money and time. I have a tb45 patrol. They are a tough engine. When you work out the cost to do a barra swap I can get all parts I need for Tb and have a strong original car. They are way overated. I sold my last greentop . Bon voyage lol
Barras overrated in general. People think theyre cheap to build power on where in reality they're not. Also need to make 400kw+ for them to even run decent 1/4m passes. Not a very good engine imo but each to there own
@@94toxic94 Just curious...Why do you think that Barras are not a very good engine ?... Please explain why ??....
@@victorpeirce4753weak pistons, valve springs, rods, they sound like crap. Expensive to build on, makes power but not very fast in the real world. There heavy as well adding so much weight to the car. There's much better engines kit there, especially other 6 cylinder ones. Barras a poor man's rb26/30 engine, it's a fake attempt at trying to go fast and sound good.
@@94toxic94 Yeah but a Barra Turbo will outlast any RB3O/26 combo 1O times over.💯
@@victorpeirce4753 maybe but a rb will always be quicker
Shout out to maxx performance blowing up the tail shaft lol
Also get a LSD diff, put all that power to the ground better 👌🏻
Might as well go tru trac for that power
what flavour has old mate got?
Should have just turboed the Sohc motor lol
It has turbo wow
You have the wrong attitude. Building projects is an opportunity to learn new skills , and “proper” way to do things. I spent 3 years worth of weekends fully rebuilding my boat and fitting a Mercury V8 outboard
💯💯💯
I know the feeling when you want to move out but the Sydney/Melbourne housing market is f@ked. It's better than renting though.
I would have AU'd it go the AU .
It's called a ba Falcon ya big nuggy
Yo young dude..... You remind me of when I was younger? Also don't feel bad about living with your parents dude. Honestly there is no judgement on you with that. Right now in this society it's fucken tough and seemingly only getting tougher? The best way to fight inflation is to do as you are doing by learning everything yourself. Going through the paces and discovering all the little niche finicky things not spoken about.....those hurdles overcome are all contextual knowledge that is in a database that you own!
Trust me I was your age once and did stupid shit like buy a 13B turbo RX7 when I was fucking uni student? WTF? Yeah I learnt how that thing all worked and became an FC RX7 encyclopaedia because I was too stingey to afford to pay someone else to work on it?
The fireballs and flames were spectacular way of showing off the correlating side effect of simultaneous burning of the wallet for some strange reason I could never seem find out the cause?
I became the mechanic for my school friends who were also poor that couldn't afford a mechanic so I would do (often multiple cars on a Saturday) work on mates cars for mates rates so I could afford to go cruising in a rotary on Saturday night? I was working on optimist thinking of 'in a perfect world' type thinking and apply it to my life and convincing myself 'don't fucking worry about it dude, you got this' lol.
Full time Universit, 2 casual jobs, body building routine, girl friend and modifying the car that I use to commute? Hmmmm I'm wondering how this escaped the logic loop hmm oh that's right boost + rotary = super fun happy time!
Taking the car off the road and going all out Magabuild no stone left unturned was probably the mistake I regret?
Everything works perfect optimists world! It's the reality that is broken and not living up to it's end of the deal brother.
Through unforseen circumstances it was the project never to be completed? So it's going to have to go now and be someone else's to finish...... Cause my dad left me his XR6 a turbo ute that's in need of restoration? A rotary with today's fuel prices would make me as poor as I was at University FFS I would cry everytime I saw flames on decel
Good luck with the Ute resto, don't go nuts on it.
@@soundsolutions cheers dude. Nah it' was my dad's ute(He left it to me in his will) I'm putting a camper on the back and territory front diff etc to make 4x4 and then I'm heading out bush somewhere to go camping and travelling the country?
I'm probably 20k into a forged SOHC AU XR6 build. 8k of it is the motor the rest is every fucking thing else...
Why swap the motor at all, the car is a heap in the first place
Put the Barra into the patrol