I’m running 10 year old equipment on some of my buggies and it’s fine for practice. I have newer stuff and I’m not there yet where it makes a huge difference. The older stuff is plenty for my skill level.
I do some Drift RC and i looking at video for adjusting my timming. I got the progbox 6 in 1 Skyrc and when i do the motor timming test it give me 27 degree. I run 27 boost changed the start rpm from 15k to 12.5k ad turbo his at 37 degrees and end at 42.5k. It get warm but seems to be fine, i try 30 boost and 40 turbo with same rpm and the motor get hot but still under 100 degree. I also change the pinion gear, from a 22T to a 20T, i go to the nearby track, one guy told me they run 19T, i had trouble follwing them at 22T but now at 20 ica follow them and they have a plastic track imported from Japan. They have the biggest track in Canada about 30 min, my friends and i do some on concrete. Concrete is harder is more abrasive
Heh, back in my day, we used the old school approach to discharge our batteries. Your average 12V incandescent automobile parking light bulb pulls about 1 1/2 Amps. We used to daisy-chain discharge rigs with 16 bulbs together to pull a 24 amp load against our batteries. Aside from draining the battery, it also had the advantage of giving us a visual indicator of how much charge was left after a run. The technology may change, but the innovation never dies. 😉
I quit racing back in the day right at the cusp of Li-Po and brushless motors. The promise back then was "Charge and go". No turning motors, dialing brush springs and brushes, matching battery cells, discharging individual cells, dyno testing batches of 27T stock motors looking for a hot armature, etc. Looks like not much has changed, and I still need another duffle bag of charging/discharging and motor tuning equipment to stay competitive.
Heads-up: You have your resistors wired up in parallel, not series. Otherwise, great video and thanks for the input. Coming into this after 16 years away - propulsion technology has completely changed!
Another great video, I started breaking down my cars after every race weekend and clean them real good and also refill my shock oil and it was a night and day difference.. cars drove great and consistent!! Thank Ryan!!
@@RyanHarrisRC you should do an update to this. It's got a ton of views and there's not a ton of other videos with this much good info so dense. Be nice to see so new tips 4years later.
I really appreciate all the tips and tricks your giving in all of your videos. I just got into the rc carpet buggy thing and was having trouble making one of the jumps at my local track. I had to turn the timing all the way up on my motor and went from a 28 to 30t pinion and started making the jump now. I'm going to have to look into some better batteries though as I'm only running a 100c pack. Very informative. Thanks for the help
u might add "C" ratings to your battery overview, about how C rating is discharge rate (but C is also used in reference to charging, its easy, discharge is like 30 or 60 or 110 C and charge rate C's are like 1C or 2C, as recommended by manufacturer) and thats where your "punch" comes from(i.e. 100 C>80 C), i know some guys over look it and get a 30 C battery and charge the crap out of it thinking that's the trick. just a thought, not trying to step on anyones toes or be a know it all, vids are great, i'm subbed, keep it up!
I use to charge my 4800 lipos batteries @ 10 too 15 amp, I’m old school, I use turbo 35 by competition electronics they have around 30, 35 amp charge and discharge.
Good tips. Unfortunately there are no off-road tracks anywhere close to where I live. We only have a couple oval tracks now which is what we race..The only off road track that was near by lost it's building lease about 2 yrs ago! Anyway power still matters alot when limited by class rules.
I was wondering if you would answer a question about discharging/dumping your batteries. When u discharge them at the max amp discharge, what do you bring the battery down too? I’ve recently started this and I was told 3.22 by a racer at my local hobby store. Do u mind sharing your opinion and what they should be brought down to. Thank you, great video btw.
My tips Get a current gen. Motor Get a silicon graphene battery Charge battery at 2 amps above 3C Rebuild shocks between each race day Make sure your car is straight and not bent Alignment Get a body that’s right for you Good tires Get wide selection of springs Good radio Good tools And finally... DRIVE THE GOD DANG CAR GOOD!!
The biggest difference I've noticed as a newbie is tires, I was shocked how big of a difference slicks made, I put on a set of Smoothie 2 silvers and they stick to the track like velcro
I would advise changing pinions first, not timing. There is usually a timing that is the best balance of RPM and Torque (around 35-50 degrees usually) and I don't vary it.
Some RC clubs will temp the batteries before a race. I remember guy’s charging their lipos in a lipo bag but the battery was wrapped in a heating pad then they would put that battery that over 100 degrees in front of the AC in their trailer to cool it down to race rules temp lol.
Hello Ryan, Congratulations for your video. I love it. I'm frensh and here it's really difficult to have explanation about 1/10 TT or even more in general. Everytime I watch a video of you I learn something great 👍. I don't find a video about setting of 4wd chassis. Per example the drop of 1/10 TT..???. OK if you have a little time I would be really happy that you explain how I can setting the droop. Have a good day Gabriel
Hey Ryan, I’m setting up a T6.1 and want to get additional improvement parts during the build, comes led you suggest the parts I should start with, the best bang for my buck? I watch all your vids👌
Thank you for all the knowledge and tips! Been tinkering with RC for a long time but i am getting more serious about racing at the track now. I have older associated cars B44.2 with a 7.5T system , and a T3 with a 10.5T system. Might be upgrading soon if i keep at it.
Hi Ryan, how about making a video on how to achieve the proper gearing.. Also, how to figure this out in determining what is proper for the track/ driving style etc.. Thanks Chris
Great video dude, I do the regenerative charge on my lipo with the icharger 406 duo and the difference it makes is ridiculous !!!!! But at a risk to, keep lipo in safe sack and out the way of other people.
Hey I'm new to rc. Always been a fan of them just never had access. Now I'm older, and have the money I'm doing my rc ar thing at 37 years old. Lol. What I'd like too kno is how you know wat the lipo battery rating is measured on "T" motors versus 2s-8s rated motors. Idk why but I've looked and can't find any info on turn motors as far as lipo cells they are rated for!? Thanks for the awesome vids and all ur help with my rc hobby!😅
Love your videos, very informational. Your explanations are so down to earth. Are you able to make a video explaining how to make a discharge bank and selecting an appropriate charger for different racing needs? Thank you so much.
So interesting to see battery conditioning ideas of 25+ years ago for NiCd and NiMh batteries being used on todays LiPo packs. When LiPo batteries first came out the marketing was battery conditioning was a technique of the past.
Hi Ryan... I can't be sure without getting a closer look at the polarity, but are you SURE that resistor bank is assembled in series? Because it sure looks like it's put together in parallel.
Charles Jensen Nice! That will be a lot of fun I'm sure! I don't have too much knowledge for astro or carpet stuff since I am an outdoor guy mostly. Maybe check the setup link in my description, find your car, and look at the astro setups there 👍
Instead of discharging your batteries quickly, just warm them up with a hairdryer (not a heat gun) this will give you the lower internal resistance that you want while not unnecessarily cycling your battery
Iv seen the battery thing done. But there is one thing it does not last. The IR is at its lowest when the batter is hot. Then during the charging process it will self cool down. Then the IR comes back up. Iv done all kinds of test over and over again. The best thing is to find some good batteries buy a few. And use those for your main packs. Shorty packs will always have high IR because of the size and design of the cells. Getting HV cells are better in the IR numbers. They are a better grade of cells. You don't have to over charge them.
hi love your videos.. especially during this coronavirus time being at home. im about to start a drift build.. getting parts for mst fmx build. does all this apply to drift motors?
charging and discharging at those amps is a good way of causing a lipo fire. I wish all tracks would implement the charging sacks. I'd be pissed if my shit went up because of the guy pitted next to me was cooking his lipos because he thought he was suppose to. Another reason I like mod besides of the speed, charge at no more than 2c, throw in your battery, set your timing on the endbell to about 20 degrees, maybe put in a little turbo in the esc..done.
Regarding building shocks.. I like what Cav does... place the spring cups on the shaft before you start the bleed process. There is no reason to bleed the shafts all the way up to the bodies when they'll never go that far given the spring cups act like a limiter given they add thickness between the shock body and the plastic eyelets when installed. Also, why 5-6 amp draw for motors? Where did those numbers originate? Is there a scientific reasoning for that amount of amp draw? Why noy 3.5-4.5 amp draw which is more efficient? ...and BTW, great video production, subscribed.
Hey Ryan, seen so many of the videos, love your work. I am wondering if you may do a :newbie to racing video. Not so much about setup, but what you need to get started, specifically around tools. I personally run 1/5th truck and dabbling in mini 1/5 this is the FG stuff. But also run electric GT serpent in the social clubs races. Interested in your thoughts, on were to put money initially to cover you for different sizes and quality. I know all categories have their specific tooling or that particular car. But I think this is more aimed at the rookie generalist. There are a lot of club guys looking for info and they definitely fall under the new to racing category and it all gets very confusing. As always, thank you again for all the work and content you put out, I have learn so much from you, 'keep it right side up' all the best.
Hi Ryan thanks for the video.A few questions. So the famous c values of lipo batteries don't apply here...? 2)- not many charger alows you to charge at 40 amp ..so could you recommend one..3). How much time takes you to discharge at 40 amp a lipo bat? They don't blew up or became bigger.i have some lipos and i m worry about the burst current all the time ..so the esc drain higger current from the battery??thanks your explanation helps me a lot to understant .
What's up Ryan, good video. The part with the motor analyzer is the part I enjoyed the most. I had a question, Im sure I could check some rules and find the answer to my question somewhere. The last time I was racing, NIMH were the hot batteries and we still had brushes. I raced stock class 2wd. The motors came with bushings and you couldn't run bearings. Ive been planning on getting back into racing. The New brushless motors come with bearings in 17.5 and 13.5. My question is can these bearings be upgraded? ie, higher abec? Or different material?
Well I googled and answered my own question. Bearing upgrades are allowed, so are rotor changes. I was aware Of the tuning rotors, but not aware of the rules about bearings. Which is information Im glad to have found. I like the idea Of being able to take something that came one way and change it too my liking. That can make it more difficult for the novice to keep up however. Too be honest, in stock class, I always had the hp, I just didnt have the consistency I would have preferred. Looking forward to getting back into racing after a long break. Back then I was much faster driving my competitors vehicles who always seemed to grab spots 1 and 2.
Could you keep your battery warm with a heater (pants pocket, warm rice bag, temperature controlled container) rather than through fast discharge/charge cycles?
Getting back into rc since last time I was like 12 and a 1/10 rc car with no job is impossible with no money, I am wondering if there are any good upgrades for a 1/18scale rc car?
Hey Ryan, I know it will vary from track to track but can I ask what timing and spur/pinion combo you are running on your B64? I am running the same motor in mine at SDRC. Also I made a grave error and ran the buggy for too long without a fan and it temped ~204 F when I took it off the track... first run too. If I put it on a motor tester is there parameter that would show if/how much it had been damaged? Another very informative video for when I get to the point of running consistently enough to use these tips.
Hi Ryan, just found your videos and they are awesome. Hello RC racers, looking for some advise. I’m looking to getting back into racing and was wanting to know which class of 2wd 1/10 buggy would be. 17.5 stock, 13.5 stock or mod would be cheaper to be competitive in. Looking for electronics ( motor, esc and battery combo) for my TA b6.1.
I know it's an old video, but I am old too... at least getting there. For those who may not want to tempt overcharging/heating a battery couldn't you just heat the battery up (safely, not an oven at 450 degrees) to help release some internal resistance?
would it be possible to use some sick resistors between the battery whatever needs power to boost the power ? i realize that the cap will not be able to supply the higher current for long, but atleast you would have a boost as you turn on to the straights?
Great Video, But from what i see the 1 Ohm resistors are not connected in series as u mentioned. I think thats in parallel. and please shed some light on that these are not just any top of the shelf 1 ohm resistors. They are heat sinks in a way cheers
hey bro I just recently installed a gyro and the gyro worked as far as turning but I had no throttle anymore. so I took the gyro out and connected the normal way without gyro and I still have no throttle. and I tried to calibrate my neutral forward and revers but it wont let me. I have a redcat black out sc pro brushless with a hobbywing wp-10bl60 rtr esc. I tried a new esc also same model and same thing again. no throttle. you seem knowledgeable and I watch you often. maybe you can help me figure this out.
Hey Ryan love your videos. Question I run 13.5 Short Course Street Stock class and a 21.5 buggy Street stock class on dirt oval do you have any videos for tips on setups and advice for these classes and oval configurations
@@RC-ty5ym You've obviously never actually raced oval of any kind. It's probably the most effort for the least amount of gain for any form of racing, in part thanks to its simplicity.
Great Video .... i run at a huge facility in central illinois, they have aot of great gear, but no one knows anything, it's like walking into a walmart for R/C ... i've been in R/C cars for most of my adult life and i'm 52. i have never been in a place that is so lacking in knowledge about what they are selling. it's sad really.
Hi Ryan, may i ask what would be a top end speed controller for 17.5 or 13.5 turn class? I know a lot of speed controllers are very different in power output. Great videos 🙌 very helpful 👍
Quick question. So I'm poor and impatient and looking at less than 60 dollar chargers and less than 60 dollar batteries for 17.5 buggy. Would I just be wasting money or can I get by until I have the money to upgrade. Anything in that price range that you like?
TOXICBULLET 73 honestly the battery pumping and IR stuff makes a very small difference. For club racing I don't even bother with the heavy duty charge and discharge 👍
hi you seem really knowledgeable about rc motors, can you help me with what 13.5 engine should i buy? i have a budget around $500 aside from the tekin brand what is the best fastest motor there is? thanks!
The Trinity Monster Max 17.5 & 13.5 motors are my favorite motors! The Trinity 4000mah 2s Shorty White Carbon is my favorite battery. All of them are linked in my description!
I’m running 10 year old equipment on some of my buggies and it’s fine for practice. I have newer stuff and I’m not there yet where it makes a huge difference. The older stuff is plenty for my skill level.
I do some Drift RC and i looking at video for adjusting my timming. I got the progbox 6 in 1 Skyrc and when i do the motor timming test it give me 27 degree. I run 27 boost changed the start rpm from 15k to 12.5k ad turbo his at 37 degrees and end at 42.5k. It get warm but seems to be fine, i try 30 boost and 40 turbo with same rpm and the motor get hot but still under 100 degree.
I also change the pinion gear, from a 22T to a 20T, i go to the nearby track, one guy told me they run 19T, i had trouble follwing them at 22T but now at 20 ica follow them and they have a plastic track imported from Japan. They have the biggest track in Canada about 30 min, my friends and i do some on concrete. Concrete is harder is more abrasive
Heh, back in my day, we used the old school approach to discharge our batteries. Your average 12V incandescent automobile parking light bulb pulls about 1 1/2 Amps. We used to daisy-chain discharge rigs with 16 bulbs together to pull a 24 amp load against our batteries. Aside from draining the battery, it also had the advantage of giving us a visual indicator of how much charge was left after a run. The technology may change, but the innovation never dies. 😉
real
Lol I did this
Been there done that! Very effective! Some folks would use a sealed beam headlamp (in old cars) that did a pretty good job.
thats what i did!
@@TrevorCazes hey man my calls f****** taking s*** on me call me back and he called me to know for you
I quit racing back in the day right at the cusp of Li-Po and brushless motors. The promise back then was "Charge and go". No turning motors, dialing brush springs and brushes, matching battery cells, discharging individual cells, dyno testing batches of 27T stock motors looking for a hot armature, etc.
Looks like not much has changed, and I still need another duffle bag of charging/discharging and motor tuning equipment to stay competitive.
I raced about 20 years ago. Trinity has always been an excellent product. Glad to see they are still great!
Thank you for the reminder on these tips. It’s been over ten years since I race now 2022 I’m back into touring on road.
Heads-up: You have your resistors wired up in parallel, not series. Otherwise, great video and thanks for the input. Coming into this after 16 years away - propulsion technology has completely changed!
:) back after 30 years I am a dinosaur.
Indeed, that bank of resistors is wired in parallel
Another great video, I started breaking down my cars after every race weekend and clean them real good and also refill my shock oil and it was a night and day difference.. cars drove great and consistent!! Thank Ryan!!
PursuitofPerfectionA That's awesome man! Glad you got your cars super dialed now!
@@RyanHarrisRC you should do an update to this. It's got a ton of views and there's not a ton of other videos with this much good info so dense. Be nice to see so new tips 4years later.
Love that old school flow of goodies behide. Haha the memories of rc racing in the early 90's
Hey Ryan. Question, do you have a video that explains the best way to choose and set gearing? I’m new to electric RC and still watch your videos.
Hey Ryan with the resistor bank i think your meant to wire it in parallel ?
yep.
Hi Ryan I like that charger you have I just got a spectrum charger but I’m totally digging the one you have
I really appreciate all the tips and tricks your giving in all of your videos. I just got into the rc carpet buggy thing and was having trouble making one of the jumps at my local track. I had to turn the timing all the way up on my motor and went from a 28 to 30t pinion and started making the jump now. I'm going to have to look into some better batteries though as I'm only running a 100c pack. Very informative. Thanks for the help
Another Great video for a guys who is switching from oval to off road!
u might add "C" ratings to your battery overview, about how C rating is discharge rate (but C is also used in reference to charging, its easy, discharge is like 30 or 60 or 110 C and charge rate C's are like 1C or 2C, as recommended by manufacturer) and thats where your "punch" comes from(i.e. 100 C>80 C), i know some guys over look it and get a 30 C battery and charge the crap out of it thinking that's the trick. just a thought, not trying to step on anyones toes or be a know it all, vids are great, i'm subbed, keep it up!
I use to charge my 4800 lipos batteries @ 10 too 15 amp, I’m old school, I use turbo 35 by competition electronics they have around 30, 35 amp charge and discharge.
the more of your videos i watch, the more of your videos i want to watch. thanks for making them
Good tips. Unfortunately there are no off-road tracks anywhere close to where I live. We only have a couple oval tracks now which is what we race..The only off road track that was near by lost it's building lease about 2 yrs ago! Anyway power still matters alot when limited by class rules.
I was wondering if you would answer a question about discharging/dumping your batteries. When u discharge them at the max amp discharge, what do you bring the battery down too? I’ve recently started this and I was told 3.22 by a racer at my local hobby store. Do u mind sharing your opinion and what they should be brought down to. Thank you, great video btw.
My tips
Get a current gen. Motor
Get a silicon graphene battery
Charge battery at 2 amps above 3C
Rebuild shocks between each race day
Make sure your car is straight and not bent
Alignment
Get a body that’s right for you
Good tires
Get wide selection of springs
Good radio
Good tools
And finally...
DRIVE THE GOD DANG CAR GOOD!!
Lol get a motor that works good on your track that people have success with.
Add grp tires
Why Rebuild the shocks every time?
The biggest difference I've noticed as a newbie is tires, I was shocked how big of a difference slicks made, I put on a set of Smoothie 2 silvers and they stick to the track like velcro
Loving that jacc's civic on the shelf.... Would love to have 1 myself as I'm a Honda guy lol
I would advise changing pinions first, not timing. There is usually a timing that is the best balance of RPM and Torque (around 35-50 degrees usually) and I don't vary it.
But 35-50 is a variable
The Coach has spoke
Ryan can you answer this one How would you set 7.5T and 10.5T motors? What's a good starting point for current draw?
Some RC clubs will temp the batteries before a race. I remember guy’s charging their lipos in a lipo bag but the battery was wrapped in a heating pad then they would put that battery that over 100 degrees in front of the AC in their trailer to cool it down to race rules temp lol.
Hello Ryan,
Congratulations for your video. I love it. I'm frensh and here it's really difficult to have explanation about 1/10 TT or even more in general. Everytime I watch a video of you I learn something great 👍. I don't find a video about setting of 4wd chassis. Per example the drop of 1/10 TT..???. OK if you have a little time I would be really happy that you explain how I can setting the droop.
Have a good day
Gabriel
Good video Ryan thanks for the tips
Great information thank you! Could you go into more depth on how to build the discharge bank?
Love the content, tips and trick’s you are sharing. Really appreciate the knowledge shared. Keep up the great work!
Hey Ryan, I’m setting up a T6.1 and want to get additional improvement parts during the build, comes led you suggest the parts I should start with, the best bang for my buck? I watch all your vids👌
This is awesome information, I had no idea you could discharge faster with this method
Great video as usual! One thing though, you said that the resistor bank is wired in series, yet they are in parallel in your video. 9:16
Thank you for all the knowledge and tips! Been tinkering with RC for a long time but i am getting more serious about racing at the track now. I have older associated cars B44.2 with a 7.5T system , and a T3 with a 10.5T system. Might be upgrading soon if i keep at it.
I have a 7t motor I my eb48
Hi Ryan, how about making a video on how to achieve the proper gearing.. Also, how to figure this out in determining what is proper for the track/ driving style etc.. Thanks Chris
Where did you get that cool pit box behind you? Good video.
Isnt there a better way to put heat into a battery than charging/discharging at extremely high amps? Like some sort of warmer or blanket or heat gun?
Great video dude, I do the regenerative charge on my lipo with the icharger 406 duo and the difference it makes is ridiculous !!!!! But at a risk to, keep lipo in safe sack and out the way of other people.
Lol I watched this video the day you put it out... here I am again. Your interview video you put out a bit earlier reminded me of it.
Hey I'm new to rc. Always been a fan of them just never had access. Now I'm older, and have the money I'm doing my rc ar thing at 37 years old. Lol. What I'd like too kno is how you know wat the lipo battery rating is measured on "T" motors versus 2s-8s rated motors. Idk why but I've looked and can't find any info on turn motors as far as lipo cells they are rated for!? Thanks for the awesome vids and all ur help with my rc hobby!😅
Great tips ! I wish I could drive good enough to take advantage of your ideas.
Love your videos, very informational. Your explanations are so down to earth. Are you able to make a video explaining how to make a discharge bank and selecting an appropriate charger for different racing needs? Thank you so much.
There is an awesome off road track in Reno Nevada called whip it Raceway
So interesting to see battery conditioning ideas of 25+ years ago for NiCd and NiMh batteries being used on todays LiPo packs. When LiPo batteries first came out the marketing was battery conditioning was a technique of the past.
lol yeah. my thoughts exactly when people started doing these things about 2 years ago on my local track.
Hi Ryan... I can't be sure without getting a closer look at the polarity, but are you SURE that resistor bank is assembled in series? Because it sure looks like it's put together in parallel.
I like your videos as they give legit tips. You've earned a new subscriber :)
Hey Ryan I watch a lot of your videos and they are very helpful. thank you and keep making them
Ryan would tell me how you have your settings on your 406 due setup to charge and discharge. Thanks for the videos.
Keep it up man, I look forward to you videos. I'm getting back into the hobby and I'm planning on getting to to racing on Astro turf any tips
Charles Jensen Nice! That will be a lot of fun I'm sure! I don't have too much knowledge for astro or carpet stuff since I am an outdoor guy mostly. Maybe check the setup link in my description, find your car, and look at the astro setups there 👍
The information that catches your batteries on fire lol
Yes very awesome video thanks a lot; I wasn't sure of all these battery tricks some people are using.
Instead of discharging your batteries quickly, just warm them up with a hairdryer (not a heat gun) this will give you the lower internal resistance that you want while not unnecessarily cycling your battery
Top video mate! You should open up an RC University, Great teacher!
Iv seen the battery thing done. But there is one thing it does not last. The IR is at its lowest when the batter is hot. Then during the charging process it will self cool down. Then the IR comes back up. Iv done all kinds of test over and over again. The best thing is to find some good batteries buy a few. And use those for your main packs. Shorty packs will always have high IR because of the size and design of the cells. Getting HV cells are better in the IR numbers. They are a better grade of cells. You don't have to over charge them.
Please make more videos I really enjoy them and look forward to seeing them👍🏼
Trying to man! I'm working on a few to get out soon!
hi love your videos.. especially during this coronavirus time being at home. im about to start a drift build.. getting parts for mst fmx build. does all this apply to drift motors?
What would you discharge and charge a 850mah 2s mini b battery at to get some extra punch?
Is a capacitor bank against the rules? could help buffer when the amp draw is high
I know your a fellow floridan, just wanted to check in and see how you faired from Irma. Hope all is well brother.
Squanto thanks for checking in! All is well on our end. Hope all is well on yours 👍
charging and discharging at those amps is a good way of causing a lipo fire. I wish all tracks would implement the charging sacks. I'd be pissed if my shit went up because of the guy pitted next to me was cooking his lipos because he thought he was suppose to. Another reason I like mod besides of the speed, charge at no more than 2c, throw in your battery, set your timing on the endbell to about 20 degrees, maybe put in a little turbo in the esc..done.
Hi Ryan....first off...THANKS.
Question?....Do you set the timing to draw 6 amps under No Load?
Regarding building shocks.. I like what Cav does... place the spring cups on the shaft before you start the bleed process. There is no reason to bleed the shafts all the way up to the bodies when they'll never go that far given the spring cups act like a limiter given they add thickness between the shock body and the plastic eyelets when installed.
Also, why 5-6 amp draw for motors? Where did those numbers originate? Is there a scientific reasoning for that amount of amp draw? Why noy 3.5-4.5 amp draw which is more efficient?
...and BTW, great video production, subscribed.
What's up Ryan.. I recently entered for a brushed class near me. What is the proper way to maintence and maintain a 12t brushed motor.
Hey Ryan, seen so many of the videos, love your work. I am wondering if you may do a :newbie to racing video. Not so much about setup, but what you need to get started, specifically around tools. I personally run 1/5th truck and dabbling in mini 1/5 this is the FG stuff. But also run electric GT serpent in the social clubs races. Interested in your thoughts, on were to put money initially to cover you for different sizes and quality. I know all categories have their specific tooling or that particular car. But I think this is more aimed at the rookie generalist. There are a lot of club guys looking for info and they definitely fall under the new to racing category and it all gets very confusing. As always, thank you again for all the work and content you put out, I have learn so much from you, 'keep it right side up' all the best.
Hi Ryan thanks for the video.A few questions. So the famous c values of lipo batteries don't apply here...? 2)- not many charger alows you to charge at 40 amp ..so could you recommend one..3). How much time takes you to discharge at 40 amp a lipo bat? They don't blew up or became bigger.i have some lipos and i m worry about the burst current all the time ..so the esc drain higger current from the battery??thanks your explanation helps me a lot to understant .
Hey Ryan, great video. What spur gear/ pinion gear combo do you recommend with a 13.5 motor 4wd buggy
What car? What internal gear ratio?
How would you set 7.5T and 10.5T motors? What's a good starting point for current draw?
What's up Ryan, good video. The part with the motor analyzer is the part I enjoyed the most. I had a question, Im sure I could check some rules and find the answer to my question somewhere. The last time I was racing, NIMH were the hot batteries and we still had brushes. I raced stock class 2wd. The motors came with bushings and you couldn't run bearings. Ive been planning on getting back into racing. The New brushless motors come with bearings in 17.5 and 13.5. My question is can these bearings be upgraded? ie, higher abec? Or different material?
Well I googled and answered my own question. Bearing upgrades are allowed, so are rotor changes. I was aware Of the tuning rotors, but not aware of the rules about bearings. Which is information Im glad to have found. I like the idea Of being able to take something that came one way and change it too my liking. That can make it more difficult for the novice to keep up however. Too be honest, in stock class, I always had the hp, I just didnt have the consistency I would have preferred. Looking forward to getting back into racing after a long break. Back then I was much faster driving my competitors vehicles who always seemed to grab spots 1 and 2.
Very helpful video, thanx! Can U give us an instruction to build the external discharge helper for Your iCharger?
I think I can do that! I'll have to order some fresh ingredients and make a nice one for you guys 👍
Could you keep your battery warm with a heater (pants pocket, warm rice bag, temperature controlled container) rather than through fast discharge/charge cycles?
What size resistors are those? And what did you use for the metal rods that connect them? Thank you!!!
Hey Ryan, do you think 13.5t is too kucb power for thr Tamiya C11? Not racing. Thanks!
Getting back into rc since last time I was like 12 and a 1/10 rc car with no job is impossible with no money, I am wondering if there are any good upgrades for a 1/18scale rc car?
Hey Ryan, I know it will vary from track to track but can I ask what timing and spur/pinion combo you are running on your B64? I am running the same motor in mine at SDRC. Also I made a grave error and ran the buggy for too long without a fan and it temped ~204 F when I took it off the track... first run too. If I put it on a motor tester is there parameter that would show if/how much it had been damaged? Another very informative video for when I get to the point of running consistently enough to use these tips.
For Batteries Try CS-Electronic the 7600 2S2P is good but depends what you use it for
Regards
What is the best way to select the proper Antiroll bar for high traction carpet...
Is 5 or 6 amps good for no prep racing with a 3.5t or 2.5t motor?
Can you make a video about b64 setup up. And all the cool stuff you did to hop it up
Already done my friend! Check my recent videos
can you do a video explaining gearing please?
Hey Ryan, just found your channel, its very fun and informative! are these brushed
Hi Ryan, just found your videos and they are awesome. Hello RC racers, looking for some advise. I’m looking to getting back into racing and was wanting to know which class of 2wd 1/10 buggy would be. 17.5 stock, 13.5 stock or mod would be cheaper to be competitive in. Looking for electronics ( motor, esc and battery combo) for my TA b6.1.
Trinity recommended setting at 4.3a freedraw on a motolyser
I know it's an old video, but I am old too... at least getting there. For those who may not want to tempt overcharging/heating a battery couldn't you just heat the battery up (safely, not an oven at 450 degrees) to help release some internal resistance?
would it be possible to use some sick resistors between the battery whatever needs power to boost the power ? i realize that the cap will not be able to supply the higher current for long, but atleast you would have a boost as you turn on to the straights?
My battery is 7.4 1600mah 30c 11.84wh and for more take off speed doese the c has to be higher
This video earned a sub! Cheers to the laps ahead✌
Great Video, But from what i see the 1 Ohm resistors are not connected in series as u mentioned. I think thats in parallel. and please shed some light on that these are not just any top of the shelf 1 ohm resistors. They are heat sinks in a way cheers
hey bro I just recently installed a gyro and the gyro worked as far as turning but I had no throttle anymore. so I took the gyro out and connected the normal way without gyro and I still have no throttle. and I tried to calibrate my neutral forward and revers but it wont let me. I have a redcat black out sc pro brushless with a hobbywing wp-10bl60 rtr esc. I tried a new esc also same model and same thing again. no throttle. you seem knowledgeable and I watch you often. maybe you can help me figure this out.
RCJer make sure you plugged in the ESC correctly on the RX. Some of the black wired stuff can be a bit confusing.
Hey Ryan love your videos. Question I run 13.5 Short Course Street Stock class and a 21.5 buggy Street stock class on dirt oval do you have any videos for tips on setups and advice for these classes and oval configurations
Oval sucks!! Driving in circles isn't that difficult!
Go to a right race track!
@@RC-ty5ym
You've obviously never actually raced oval of any kind. It's probably the most effort for the least amount of gain for any form of racing, in part thanks to its simplicity.
Great Video .... i run at a huge facility in central illinois, they have aot of great gear, but no one knows anything, it's like walking into a walmart for R/C ... i've been in R/C cars for most of my adult life and i'm 52. i have never been in a place that is so lacking in knowledge about what they are selling. it's sad really.
DozR sounds a lot like my local hobby town USA
Is that an old futaba 3pk?
Use a heating pad to heat battery without causing damage.
What is the highest acceptable internal resistance for a shorty running spec, before it is time to dispose it? Thanks
good vid my fellow Ocalian. hope to see u at our local track soon
billy Johnson me too 👍
Hi Ryan, may i ask what would be a top end speed controller for 17.5 or 13.5 turn class? I know a lot of speed controllers are very different in power output.
Great videos 🙌 very helpful 👍
Very useful, I just bought my B64D :-)
You still in the hobby?
@@edwinwx260 Not sure he's with us anymore... Hmmmmm................
What did you use for the “rods” on the resistor discharge device? Thank you!
Hey Ryan whats the best timing setting for 13.5 spec ? iv been told 50 degrees ?
What Think you about Certified 13.5turn Motors from Trinity thx
Quick question. So I'm poor and impatient and looking at less than 60 dollar chargers and less than 60 dollar batteries for 17.5 buggy. Would I just be wasting money or can I get by until I have the money to upgrade. Anything in that price range that you like?
TOXICBULLET 73 honestly the battery pumping and IR stuff makes a very small difference. For club racing I don't even bother with the heavy duty charge and discharge 👍
Ryan Harris roger that. Thanks! Love the channel btw. Best rc channel on RUclips I have a feeling exponential subscriber growth is on the horizon!
Yufan Zhu thanks!
TOXICBULLET 73
Also checkout SMC lipos. Absolute best bang for your buck.
dimerip87gt I definitely will thanks!
hi you seem really knowledgeable about rc motors, can you help me with what 13.5 engine should i buy? i have a budget around $500 aside from the tekin brand what is the best fastest motor there is? thanks!
The Trinity Monster Max 17.5 & 13.5 motors are my favorite motors! The Trinity 4000mah 2s Shorty White Carbon is my favorite battery. All of them are linked in my description!
What's that awesome rwd/retro looking buggy that's always behind you on your left on the lower of the wall shelves? Looks cooooool
Looks like an RC10