2000 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L Clutch Replacement, Step by Step Guide.
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- Опубликовано: 27 май 2020
- Replacing a bad clutch in a 2000 Jeep Wrangler 5 speed.
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I'm amazed at how you did that whole thing without a single broken bolt.
2004 TJ Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 5 Speed 4.0 Liter.
Tomorrow 2/21/23 I will be doing a total rebuild on my clutch assembly. Per your video. I have 4 (6) ton floor jacks. And yes I have purchased today the 450 LB Tranny lift. I have an oil leak. It may be the rear main seal. But there is a lot of seepage from the rear valve cover. You did an excellent job on this video. Is there anything I can do as far as recording things you may have missed? I will forward all video you request. You are very clean and fluent with you tutorials.
Your camera is excellent, so many people cannot get the focus to work properly. Nice job. Very thorough!
1) and I thought I had a rust free jeep. Wow!! Mine is a 99 w/270k and I swear it HAD to have lived behind an RV it's whole life. Yours is spotless compared to mine and mine has very minimal rust.
2) one man wrecking crew. Love it. Gives me confidence that I can do it by myself as well. Those top two bolts that were missing are E12 torx (external torx.)
3) thank you for an excellent video
@waden404 i was a used car dealer, we would ship jeeps from down south or out west into michigan fix them up, sell them for a price comparable to the private seller market. This jeep was from Georgia. Unfortunately most people didnt appreciate the rust free vehicles and preferred getting ripped off and buying a bondo buggy from the standard used car lots. So i guess thats their only option now. Thanks for watching.
My husband and I did a 2003 4.0 today. Only thing different was the stick shift. We pulled it part way up after removing the stuff below and tied it out of the way and did not remove any of the boots, etc. It took us 8 hours with him doing most of the work. Hardest part was getting the angels correct when aligning the spline when pushing the tranny on but we did not have the rear end higher than the front which may have been our problem. We left the transfer case attached. We watched this video afterwards but had fun correcting little errors and learning as we did the job. We purchased a low profile tranny jack at Harbor Freight (the 800 lb model) and rented the pilot bearing tools at ORiley as well as purchasing the clutch and flywheel there.
the 4 bolts that secure the transmission, go through the 4 slots in the middle of of the skid plate. You tighten those from underneath when you secure the skid plate, not before like you demonstrated. Otherwise, great job! Thx.
Love seeing guys with no lift like
Most
Of us getting it done 🤘🏼🇺🇸
Well done! Thanks for filming this.
Such a great an chill video 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Good call on not taking the T-Case linkage off from the bushing it was a headache to get back in and i had to wait 6 days for a new bushing doing mine.
Slave cylinder - You can bleed the slave cylinder. I've replaced just the cylinder and bleeding it is no big deal. Awesome write up. This was extremely helpful.
Great video I will be using it to do mine
Great video !!!❤️❤️
Awesome video I have a few things to buy jacks and the trans jack but I have to do one on mine you video made me feel like I can do it I’ll get a second set of hands tho lol
Great info!!! Thanks for Posting!!!!
Holy hell, that does not look like the Jeeps I work on up here in MA
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for making the video it will help changing my clutch
That’s the point
Nice video, just dropped my 6 speed on the ground to do throw out bearing. Is there a certain way to bolt the pressure plate and clutch to the flywheel? Just curious.
Awesome video, I am planning on doing the clutch in my Comanche. I am sure this will carry over pretty much the same. Mine will probably end up being even easier tbh. Thanks!
Yeah, you must live where cars dont rust, have not seen a comanche around in forever. Good luck, if you are struggling, try swearing at it, tends to work for me.
well done
Thank you
I just replaced Mine 2 weeks ago and I'm having a little bit of a chatter especially in Reverse with no gas first gear with a little gas it seems to be fine is that normal for a new clutch
Hey I got the same exact jeep pretty much, you have any idea why mine kicks me out of 2nd gear? its driving me nuts, I checked the shifter and there is no foreign parts in there to prevent 2nd
Mine it makes whirling noise until the clutch is depressed and whines in first through third goes away when I'm in fourth and fifth, and in reverse it grinds when I step on the clutch.
I know this is an old video but the reason maybe the top bell housing bolt is missing is factory they put an E reversed torque bolt head shop or person might've mangled it or done what many others do / throw it away, but many usually replace it with a regular bolt
Yeah i know what your talking about. Ive ran into those befor. Your probley right. My buddy had a box of jeep bolts, i found a couple that would fit.
When you put the throwout bearing back on the shaft, did you install a clutch fork clip to keep the end of the fork on the ball? When I pulled my transmission off the replace the throwout bearing, there was not a clip on the end of that fork. I've slid my transmission back in place, but just saw a comment on another thread that mentions this clip needing to be used or the fork will slip off of that ball.
Great video! How many hours?
You spinning that throw out bearing just 100% confirmed to me that the noise I hear when I let out my clutch is coming from the bell housing. It’s sounds about the same as yours did. How worn do you think that bearing is? My clutch and flywheel seem fine.
Hi, what clutch and flywheel did you use?
Would all these steps be the same for the SE 4 cylinder TJ?
I think it was a sach clutch, luk flywheel. It should be about the same.
My biggest fear of this entire job is the skid plate mounting bolts. Has anyone had them snap or the frame nut come loose in the frame? If so, what did you do?
Had to completely drill mine out, broke multiple bits to get them out and ultimately ended up welding a rectangular piece of metal to the frame after patching it. Where i could easily thread in new skid plate bolts. Was a bit of a nightmare until we fixed it now it comes out mint.
Drill it out or extract them it's a huge headache if you drill them out tap new holes and use different bolts
If in doubt get a bolt buster heat induction tool. Give the bolt heads a few hits with a hammer to shock them, then use the heat inductor until the bolt heads start to glow dull red. Then i would use a ratchet/breaker bar and slowly loosen/tighten, back and forth until it loosens nicely. You could try an impact gun also, but i prefer hand tools when working something free.
how do I rotate driveshaft to access the bolts on the back side?
The driveshaft should spin if the transmission is in neutral and the wheels are off the ground
Where you buy that liftcat
Is this video also good for a 1999 wrangler 4.0 ax15?
Yeah, should be about the same
The upper bell housing bolts that are missing on yours is what I’ve been struggling with for the last 3 hours🤦♂️😅
Took me 3 evening after work each night finally 3rd night I said fuck it held the impact to them for what seemed like 2 minutes they finally broke loose.
I'm going through this right now
Ha! Theres a reason why those top e torx bolts are missing. Theyre a pain in the booty to remove and install!!
How did you know it was the clutch? I have a 03 and it smells like the clutch is burning while driving. But it grinds going into second and 3rd so im worried it could be the trans. Did this one have any grinding while shifting?
If i allow it to go under 2000rpm then pull the shifer towards me hard and pull it in gear very slowly it wont grind then for 3rd gear i have to let the rpm drop then slowly push it into gear and it wont grind.
Mine would not move. The clutch was completely gone. Does your clutch slip?
A worn clutch i dont think it would cause grinding. Maybe if the clutch was dragging but it would be really hard to get into gear when sitting still.
@@ITS305TIME yeah mine seams to be working fine on everything but the grind in second gear, im pretty sure its the synchro gear
@@JeepTrailsandBarbells yeah, most likely. Look up double clutching, semi trucks didnt have syncros so they would have to double clutch shift them.
did that bad clutch make the engine vibrate?..........i have a vibration on my 4.0 that feels like a dead hole......but its not......so its balancer.....or clutch from what i can figure
I have never seen that happen personally. And if something came apart in there bad enough to cause a vibration you would think it would be making some noise, but I imagine anything is possible. If it were me and the clutch was still working, id check other things out first like the balancer. Mite even have a engine mount problem.
@@ITS305TIME ya....balancer is my next on list. Its from idle all the way to high rpm. all the coils are good.....changed the plugs......all burning the same so compression is good across the board.....feels like something is way out of balance and im wracking my brain so thought id ask about all the play your clutch had. Mines working great, no noises
Mine does the same thing. Going into 1st from a stop it vibrates the car pretty bad unless I keep the rpms up higher than normal before I let the clutch out. You think it’s a bad flywheel..? 1995 xj two door 5 speed manual 4.0l 114k mikes
Thank you!
I got a question about the clutch fork. Is there a certain way it needs to be installed? Like the slots are facing towards the pivot ball (left side) on yours. I've also seen them facing the right side towards the slave. Does it make a difference on the orintation of the slots?
Im not sure really, I just marked it so I knew i was putting it back in the way it came out. I cant remember any slots, Im guessing your worried about putting it in upside down and i can tell you the way i put it back in worked like it should.
@@ITS305TIME okay I was confused I couldn't find anything about it and mine was opposite facing then how yours came out. I'm redoing a job only 10k miles on the new clutch that a shop did before I owned the jeep. So I talked to a lead mopar tech today he said usually it doesn't make a difference. But suggested the slots face closest to the slave is how he does it but it works both ways. Good job on the video keep them up!
@@Moto_x11 Thank you, i was kinda thinking it didnt matter either but did not want to mislead someone if that was not true.
Yes it matters..slots toward the s.c. not the pivot ball.
good video! By the way, when you use a torque wrench make sure to only apply force at the handle or your torque will be off.
Sorry, not true. The torque is measured at the right angle where the ratchet is. Now if I was doing it manually, 105 ft lbs of torque would equal 105 lbs at a one foot handle distance. It would be easier to apply that much torque at the end of the handle, but it can be done anywhere along the handle.
Is this the nv3550 trans?
Also are you using all mopar parts?
If you EVER get this far, replace the crank position sensor....you'll thank me later!
Not a bad idea, but the jeep didnt run when i first got it. Due to the crank sensor failing from all the metal dust from the clutch coming apart. So we did replace it and befor i did this and it was not to bad.
What if the new one is no good? New: Never ever worked😂
this has been a royal nightmare on my behind. none of the parts come with instructions and no one on youtube mentioned FEEL THE RESISTANCE WHEN INSTALLING THE SLAVE CYLINDER. I fucking wasted 3 weekends in a row wasting 3 parts by installing the slave cylinder and then having to return the part because the PRE BLED piece of shit part breaks and then I hAVE TO RESTART WITH A BRAND NEW PART,,,,yes im frustrated. god bless fuck this
How did you finally go about getting the slave cyl back on without breaking it? About to begin my clutch replacement and want to avoid this. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
@@RATMotoX feel the resistance when installing it that way you know you put it in right. lmk how it goes
Too many ads to get through the complete install