This super-clear video gave me the confidence to tackle the hunting problem. I got a clean piece of cardboard and created ten large numbered squares to house the big parts. I had a large refrigerator magnet which I divided in the same way, this magnetically held all the screws. I took the same care as you did, cleaning and recleaning the focus strip both lengthwise and perpendicularly with 91% alcohol. I can attest that finding the right size Phillips screwdriver made of high-grade steel is essential. I attached a small powerful magnet to the screwdriver shaft and that made extracting the screws without dropping them easy. At minute 23:00 I could not extend the zoom. It felt locked. It took several tries to realize that my fingers were gripping the inner and outer parts of the cylinder. Finally, I gripped only the outer cylinder and it slid out perfectly. One more thing, my version of the lens did not have a sticker to peel halfway off. Earlier model? Thank you for a most excellent video. I'm going to send you a thank-you donation!
I have a lens that was focus hunting and came across this video as didn't want to pay to get it serviced. I was skeptical but followed this process. Put it back together and it was actually worse than before. I didn't have a blower, so thought I would get one and try again. Repeated the process and to my surprise, I got it working. Thank you so much for this detailed video!
Thank you, this was incredibly helpful! I had the exact same symptoms with the same lens. Was about to order a repair when I came across this video. Watched it through first to get a sense of what I was getting myself into. It didn't look too scary, so I assembled the tools and two hours later the lens was working perfectly again. Thanks!
hey there hope you doing fine... please post more videos ... your video really help me alot, i already fix 3 canon lens by watching your video.. thanks alot love from MALAYSIA!!
Thank you very much for the super helpful and excellent video. The video described the process perfectly and I was able to use it to successfully fix the same problem on my EF-S 17-55mm lens. I will say that this is a delicate and tender process. Be careful not to mash down the focus scale when you are handling it - it is easy to do! It is relatively easy to get it back in place -- but helps to just be aware of its delicateness so you don't mash it down in the first place (like I did!). Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit perfectly so you don't strip out any screws. The screws appear to have locktite or some other seal on them so they can be tight to break free. I ran into one screw that had locktite on the top which I had to clean out to get into the phillips slot on the screw top. I do a lot of DIY including repairing laptops and this repair is a fair bit more complicated than that. I would never have been able to do it without this video. Super helpful! Thanks much!!
Thank you for this video. It has saved me and my lens. Very well made and filmed which makes it easy to understand the process even if you are not a professional. For me it was the first time i did something like this and I completed it successfully.
Thanks for the great video! This worked for me. It was not the easiest job but if you keep organized and note your orientation of each part, then it's worth a try.
Vielen Dank für das tolle Video. Ich repariere und warte meine alten manuellen Linsen immer selber und das macht mir immer viel Spaß…und habe viel gelernt dabei…aber habe mich nie an meine elektrisch gesteuerten Linsen ran getraut. Ich denke das wird sich jetzt ändern. Vielen Dank
Hello! Thank you very much for this video, but during the disassembly stage I encountered big problems. When I tried to remove the USM motor screws, it turned out that the bolts were filled with some kind of glue or varnish. I damaged all the screwdrivers and also damaged the screw slots. Could you give me some advice on what I should do in this situation. Thank you in advance.
If there is groove left in the screw, you might try "bondhus screw grab", if there is no groove left, then you can try a small screw extractor drill bit, if that doesn't help you have to drill the screws. Anyway, if you damaged the heads of the screws, that means that most likely the scerwdriver did not fit the scewhead perfectly. I would recommend to buy multiple different PH000 screwdrivers and choose the one which fits the screw head the best.
In some rare occasions I had to clean the strip 2 or 3 times. Also, make sure that at least one time clean it moving the swab or microfiber cloth perpendicular to the strip.
im having the same issue and was trying to fix it. already after the 6th screw, i fail...the conector stays at the first plastic ring and i dont want to break something. removed the two tiny screws but it stays at its place like glued. any tips?
Thank for this, really good and well presented. I did all of this but lens hints just the same. At the beginning of your video you showed the lens hunting at 55mm and at the end not hunting at 17mm. Can you confirm that the hunting was fixed at 55mm as well? My 17-85 is fine at 17mm but hunts when extended. Any other ideas?
I could repair my lens, and now it is working perfectly. This problem is mostly at the end of the zoom range, so if the AF is working at 55mm, then it will work on all the other zoom settings. In some rare cases I had to clean the focus strip 2 times. Use a cotton swab or microfiber cloth to clean it, and swipe it perpendicularly to the focus trip also. Also, check if the focus strip is in perfect shape. If it has scratches, then you have to buy a new one.
Added this to my save list, I have one of these I bought used at least third-hand so I expect it'll eventually need servicing. But at $300 I can't really complain. Question. On my Canon 10-22mm the AF/MF slider switch is broken, the nub of the switch itself inside is snapped off. Would you try to find another switch and solder it on, or would you think it better to replace the whole circuit board that it's installed on? Any suggestions for where to get the part?
First, I would check if the switch can be disassembled, and the inner small plastic lever can be replaced with an other one. If not, then I would replace the switch. Replacing the PCB?: The PCB could contain calibration data (I don't know for sure), and the AF might be a little bit off if you replace the PCB... but if you get an other PCB, try if the focus point is where it should be.
Hello. Thank you for your vidéo. I tried to repair mine who suffered apparently the same. At power on after repaired, my 400D displayed error 99, so I restarted nealry all the process and now it is back to the problem I had at the beginning (so I think I reconnected something wrongly and now this issue that I created is fixed). I also notice something I would like your opinion please : even when using the focus ring manually, I can't go to "0" of 0.35m which you show at 34:28 (and even sometimes at 0.5m it fails to go lower, still manually, so I can imagine the auto focus may struggle too). Do you know how to fix and especially at which step I should care a bit more during the full process ? (may be something else to clean or a specific position to ensure)
@@CamerasLensesEtc Thank you for your answer. I took care of this step so I am quite confident about this, but I will double check if I give a new try to the procedure.
This super-clear video gave me the confidence to tackle the hunting problem. I got a clean piece of cardboard and created ten large numbered squares to house the big parts. I had a large refrigerator magnet which I divided in the same way, this magnetically held all the screws. I took the same care as you did, cleaning and recleaning the focus strip both lengthwise and perpendicularly with 91% alcohol. I can attest that finding the right size Phillips screwdriver made of high-grade steel is essential. I attached a small powerful magnet to the screwdriver shaft and that made extracting the screws without dropping them easy. At minute 23:00 I could not extend the zoom. It felt locked. It took several tries to realize that my fingers were gripping the inner and outer parts of the cylinder. Finally, I gripped only the outer cylinder and it slid out perfectly. One more thing, my version of the lens did not have a sticker to peel halfway off. Earlier model? Thank you for a most excellent video. I'm going to send you a thank-you donation!
I'm glad that my video was useful and has helped you repairing your lens, and thank you for the donation!
I have a lens that was focus hunting and came across this video as didn't want to pay to get it serviced. I was skeptical but followed this process. Put it back together and it was actually worse than before. I didn't have a blower, so thought I would get one and try again. Repeated the process and to my surprise, I got it working. Thank you so much for this detailed video!
I'm glad that my video has helped you!
Thank you, this was incredibly helpful! I had the exact same symptoms with the same lens. Was about to order a repair when I came across this video. Watched it through first to get a sense of what I was getting myself into. It didn't look too scary, so I assembled the tools and two hours later the lens was working perfectly again. Thanks!
Thank you for the donation, and I'm glad that my video has helped you!
hey there hope you doing fine... please post more videos ... your video really help me alot, i already fix 3 canon lens by watching your video.. thanks alot love from MALAYSIA!!
A great video, without it I wouldn't have been brave enough to attempt the repair - Thank you 🤓
You're welcome!
Thank you very much for the super helpful and excellent video. The video described the process perfectly and I was able to use it to successfully fix the same problem on my EF-S 17-55mm lens. I will say that this is a delicate and tender process. Be careful not to mash down the focus scale when you are handling it - it is easy to do! It is relatively easy to get it back in place -- but helps to just be aware of its delicateness so you don't mash it down in the first place (like I did!). Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit perfectly so you don't strip out any screws. The screws appear to have locktite or some other seal on them so they can be tight to break free. I ran into one screw that had locktite on the top which I had to clean out to get into the phillips slot on the screw top. I do a lot of DIY including repairing laptops and this repair is a fair bit more complicated than that. I would never have been able to do it without this video. Super helpful! Thanks much!!
Thank you for your comment, I'm glad that my video has helped you!
Thank you for this video. It has saved me and my lens. Very well made and filmed which makes it easy to understand the process even if you are not a professional. For me it was the first time i did something like this and I completed it successfully.
Great to hear that my video was helpful!
Thanks for the great video! This worked for me. It was not the easiest job but if you keep organized and note your orientation of each part, then it's worth a try.
Thank you for your comment and the donation!
Vielen Dank für das tolle Video.
Ich repariere und warte meine alten manuellen Linsen immer selber und das macht mir immer viel Spaß…und habe viel gelernt dabei…aber habe mich nie an meine elektrisch gesteuerten Linsen ran getraut.
Ich denke das wird sich jetzt ändern.
Vielen Dank
You're welcome, I'm glad my videos have helped!
Thank you very much sir
You're welcome!
Thanks!
Thank you for the donation!
Hello! Thank you very much for this video,
but during the disassembly stage I encountered big problems. When I tried to remove the USM motor screws, it turned out that the bolts were filled with some kind of glue or varnish. I damaged all the screwdrivers and also damaged the screw slots. Could you give me some advice on what I should do in this situation.
Thank you in advance.
If there is groove left in the screw, you might try "bondhus screw grab", if there is no groove left, then you can try a small screw extractor drill bit, if that doesn't help you have to drill the screws.
Anyway, if you damaged the heads of the screws, that means that most likely the scerwdriver did not fit the scewhead perfectly. I would recommend to buy multiple different PH000 screwdrivers and choose the one which fits the screw head the best.
👍👍👍
Thank you, thumbs up to you also!
Do you know why it canot works on me? I already clean and rreasemble.. And the focus still hunting.. Help
In some rare occasions I had to clean the strip 2 or 3 times. Also, make sure that at least one time clean it moving the swab or microfiber cloth perpendicular to the strip.
im having the same issue and was trying to fix it. already after the 6th screw, i fail...the conector stays at the first plastic ring and i dont want to break something. removed the two tiny screws but it stays at its place like glued. any tips?
Can you send me a timestamp?
@@CamerasLensesEtc sold the lense already, but thanks for the reply.
Thank for this, really good and well presented. I did all of this but lens hints just the same. At the beginning of your video you showed the lens hunting at 55mm and at the end not hunting at 17mm. Can you confirm that the hunting was fixed at 55mm as well? My 17-85 is fine at 17mm but hunts when extended. Any other ideas?
I could repair my lens, and now it is working perfectly. This problem is mostly at the end of the zoom range, so if the AF is working at 55mm, then it will work on all the other zoom settings.
In some rare cases I had to clean the focus strip 2 times. Use a cotton swab or microfiber cloth to clean it, and swipe it perpendicularly to the focus trip also.
Also, check if the focus strip is in perfect shape. If it has scratches, then you have to buy a new one.
Added this to my save list, I have one of these I bought used at least third-hand so I expect it'll eventually need servicing.
But at $300 I can't really complain.
Question. On my Canon 10-22mm the AF/MF slider switch is broken, the nub of the switch itself inside is snapped off. Would you try to find another switch and solder it on, or would you think it better to replace the whole circuit board that it's installed on? Any suggestions for where to get the part?
First, I would check if the switch can be disassembled, and the inner small plastic lever can be replaced with an other one. If not, then I would replace the switch.
Replacing the PCB?: The PCB could contain calibration data (I don't know for sure), and the AF might be a little bit off if you replace the PCB... but if you get an other PCB, try if the focus point is where it should be.
Hello. Thank you for your vidéo. I tried to repair mine who suffered apparently the same.
At power on after repaired, my 400D displayed error 99, so I restarted nealry all the process and now it is back to the problem I had at the beginning (so I think I reconnected something wrongly and now this issue that I created is fixed).
I also notice something I would like your opinion please : even when using the focus ring manually, I can't go to "0" of 0.35m which you show at 34:28 (and even sometimes at 0.5m it fails to go lower, still manually, so I can imagine the auto focus may struggle too). Do you know how to fix and especially at which step I should care a bit more during the full process ? (may be something else to clean or a specific position to ensure)
Most likely the USM motor and the focusing lens element is not connected. You can see those two parts at 23:10.
@@CamerasLensesEtc Thank you for your answer. I took care of this step so I am quite confident about this, but I will double check if I give a new try to the procedure.
Can I send my 17-55 to you for you to clean it?
If so how much and where do I send it.
Sorry, I don't repair lenses for clients.