Yes that would be a good test. He would need to bring in some better glues though. There are many other adhesives to test that are way better than great stuff.
More tips for Gorilla Glue: (1) Use a stick or brush to make a film on the whole part to avoid glued/unglued areas maximizing the bond and minimizing between-part gaps. (2) For smaller parts just breathe heavily on the glue instead of adding water. The moisture in you breath seems to do the trick. (3) Finally, clamping or a lot of weigh is helpful, because the glue wants to expand.
I work in a scene shop and we work large sheets of foam that need to be CNC and hand carved. We use Spray 78 polystyrene glue for all of our foam adhesion. We get the small aerosol cans for detail work, but also have 29 pound cans with hoses for large work. It is a contact adhesive, so you need to know how to work with that type of adhesive and keep the parts separated until they are aligned. There is a short wait time between spraying and assembly, but once attached the parts are secure. You also have 100% adhesive coverage and minimal gapping.
Both Gorilla Glue and Great Stuff do have some very basic similiarities, being they are both urethane-based glues. As such, the addition of moisture will help both cure quicker. And, for the best bond with both of them, it helps to roughen up both sides of what you want to bond together. This will in turn provide more surface for the adhesives to grab onto. And, both adhesives WILL foam as they cure, (being that Great Stuff is a foam to begin with, it will obviously foam more).
I'm in the process of a glue up with white Styrofoam blocks to make a faux stone arch. I chose Great Stuff. After applying the Great Stuff, I smashed and rotated the blocks to smooth out the Great Stuff. After 24 hours, its been really strong for the arch itself and most important the gap is really small. I'm quite happy with using Great Stuff!
I was using PL300 which is basically liquid nails and this year I switched to Gorilla glue. I have been way happier with the Gorilla glue. Once I understood using a bit of water and clamping it yielded superior results for sure. Clean up of the Great Stuff is still enough of a pain to avoid it.
My recommendation if using the spray foam (great stuff) for big glue ups or you do a lot of glue ups is to get the dispensing gun that take the screw on canisters. They have a adjuster to allow small beads or large beads of foam. You also don’t have to clean them right away, as the foam is sealed in the tube of the gun.
@@VanOaksProps I used this process with great stuff bark on the tree I made this year. I drilled holes in the pool noodle used to give the tree some dimension as well because nothing wants to stick to them very well except masking tape. I was not covering this tree with 10 rolls of tape!
I like to use wood glue, Titebond specifically, for sealing the outside the foam for painting. Can’t say I’ve ever tried to use it for actual adhesion though, pretty much for the same conclusion you came to here.
Thanks for another great tutorial. I watched another RUclipsr who used Great Stuff with foam board. He sprayed. pressed together, then took apart and pressed together again. Said it took the expand out but kept the bond properties.
Definitely need to try a spray adhesive for more coverage and some manufacturer makes a foam construction adhesive that can be used in a caulk gun that i imagine is strong
Great test! All of them had parts that had no adhesive and seemed to be relying on about 1/4" to maybe 3/4" of adhesive surface area. I'd really like to see an "ease of coverage" test, where you try to spread the glue on the surface to get more coverage. Also, maybe some spray adhesives to test out! And maybe a hot wire test to see how well they cut.
What a terrific test! You are such a treasure to the maker community… I can see where Great Stuff would be nice especially to fill gaps and/or help make more structure. But for quick gluing of pieces, I’d go Gorilla Glue all day long. Great Stuff can be messy and as you said, you need to clue it up pronto or you will risk ruining the rest of the can. Best of all, though, is that it’s nice to know we have options. Thanks for doing this test and sharing the results! This channel is so awesome! 👍🏼
The difficulty with greatstuff is unless you use bamboo skewers or tooth picks to keep the piece together, the pieces tend to slide of each other when stacked up with a weight on top. It is my go-to for my builds and home projects. It is very easy for repairs. The cross on my wife's Zero doghouse tombstone broke off. A skewer and a shot of great stuff fixed it good as new.
My two preferences are Great Stuff and Gorilla Construction Adhesive. Great Stuff I use on areas where I know I'll be doing a lot of carving and the construction adhesive between large pieces that won't be carved as much. For example... if I have a part of a large tombstone where I'm creating a box (top, bottom, and 4 sides, I use construction adhesive to bond the edges. Typically I won't need to work on it much and can put it aside and let it cure overnight. I'll use all these in a pinch, though. 😀
thanks again, have been using spray foam for quite a while because I've found it bonds really well. Will give the gorilla glue a shot now :) mostly because of the clean up!
Thank you very much for this. If you ever get a chance, give Clear Gorilla Glue a chance. Think you will find the same qualities with the white version but without and foam/lifting. Been my go to for a couple years now. Keep up the great work!!!
So many product options and opinions. These videos are great!! I just purchased StyroGoo from Hot Wire Foam because I am really looking for a “guaranteed” not going anywhere deal. First time using it, so fingers crossed!!!
Great information! Wish I had seen this back in 2020. I love working with the pink insulation board. Nice information for those of us working on projects using it.
Great comparison...one thing though, I wish you had included contact cement & 3M 77. I may be remembering wrong but I think I've seen both used quite often with foam boards.
Anything with a solvent, like 77, tends to melt foam. Contact cement, on the other hand, I’ve never used for foam but feel like ease of use and cleanup would be a pain
I think both Gorilla Glue and Great Stuff have some utility depending on your use. For smaller props like tombstones or decorative greeblings, I like Gorilla Glue, but for larger set pieces, Great Stuff I think has more inherent strength. Something I found interesting was the fact that Gorilla does foam up and expand a little like Great Stuff would, but to a much smaller degree.
I absolutely love Titebond III on foam, but only on two cut surfaces so that it gets a little air mixed in the process and can cure well. I’ll share that in trying to adhere the factory faces like that, I have had good results with the foam-specific 3M 78 spray. They did pop apart eventually, but it took over a decade in weather. Once one did it on its own due to exposure I found I was able to force the other few slabs that had been left in the same condition to separate nearly perfectly cleanly (I was repurposing them anyway), but a few spots stayed thoroughly adhered and broke chunks off between them, so I was very impressed to see that kind of result after so long! (We’re in the Midwest US for weather context.)
If doing large pieces use PPG Gripper it’s a primer so you just paint it on and press the pieces together. Holds just a strong as great stuff but has to dry over night for 24hrs.
Thanks for the great video! You might give Permatex Heavy Duty Automotive Headliner Adhesive a try. It is the only spray glue I've found that does not eat foam, and, for me, it is a quicker solution when I'm trying to assemble foam parts.
Thank you for the video. Question, I have some 1" thick acoustic foam panels that I want to glue to wood in my garage to prevent door dings. I tried adhesive stickers from 3M and they only lasted for about 1 day and my 16" x 4ft panels fell to the ground. I thought they were just bad stickers but the humidity made it worse and I wasted many stickers trying to get these very light-weight panels to stick. Any glue advice would be appreciated.
My biggest issue with foam (be it FloraFoam, EPS, or what have you) is finding the right adhesive for glueing *other materials* to the foam without dissolving any of them. 😭
Great overview, and as always nicely produced comparison. quick question, the two finalists work well with the Pink Insulation foam, But can these also work for repairing broken and dinged manufactured tombstones from Spirit, Home Depot etc. gotta few that need some attention and want to be sure not to damage them any further.. Thanks
I don't know that it would matter, since the wood glue needs air to dry and anything toward the middle of your foam pieces wouldn't cure because the outer edges would prevent air from reaching it.
If you use a lot of great stuff look for the contractor cans that you buy a better nozzle that only dispensers from the tip and they sell acetone cans with the same top to clean the nozzle... No waste!
Titebond 3 is used for Poor Man's Fiberglass. It bonds canvas to the foam and is resistant to water. I don't use it to glue foam together. for that, I use Great Stuff.
If you’re gluing foam I’m not sure using this for sheets is what some of those are designed for. Super or any CA glue is great especially for Eva foam. Titebond is pretty much good for wood not much else. Rubber cement is always usually.
I'm kind of surprised you didn't give Loctite PL300 a chance. It's water cleanup and has high initial tack but perhaps takes too long to cure for your kind of work.
@@VanOaksProps They claim 20 minute set, but days for full cure. Comes in a 10.2oz caulk tube. I'm in construction and we use plenty of it for EPS and XPS foam board, but once installed that stuff doesn't really get handled like your prop work. Might be worth a few$ to see if it works for you. Thanks for another informative episode! 👍 I always get new ideas and look at 'off label' applications for my projects when you post.
@@jimurrata6785 I've used PL300 for years on all of my foam work. As far as set time, I just use either deck screws or wooden skewers to hold the pieces together until the glue sets up. It doesn't sand or cut with a hot knife, but it holds well and has a bit of flex to it.
The first time I made props out of foam, it was EPS and I used gorilla glue. I wasn't aware of the water activation or the expansion. So, the next day I went out to the dining room where I had crested an ersatz workshop and found several large pieces of EPS foam securely glued to the dining room carpet.😱😂🤣😁
Awesome video and test, very helpful. I have a question if you would be so kind; I need to glue Polyethylene high density foam (like a yoga roll tube) to a hard plastic (Ascend 133x Kayak). Do you have any opinions? Thank you in advance
E6000 and super glue dissolve foam along with spray on Elmer's glue. I learned this from tests I did for my own projects so I can say these should be avoided if you're gluing foam pieces.
I believe I watched or heard that if you take the great stuff spray it on the surface place the two pieces together move them around to spread the stuff then pull the pieces apart for a moment then put it back together the foam does not expand and your left with the adhesive. But I may be wrong, and I haven't tried it yet. Just thought I'd share.
How good is hot glue? I’m sure the adhesion isn’t as good as GG or GS, but for ease of use and cost I would think it would be a good option. If it keeps the pieces stuck, of course. 😆
I used hot glue on my first set of tombstones. It worked well but like Derek said, mind your temperatures. I mainly just use it for details now like gluing in ivy or moss
Bonding primers are great. Lowe’s has a Valspar Bonding primer that is a nice substitute for the old glidden gripper. Perfect for joining two flat surfaces. No gaps, carvable with shaver or hot knife. Gorilla is my go to for uneven surfaces, but you really should try a bonding primer for flat surfaces like this test.
Using a foam “gun” nozzle eliminates the need for cleanup with acetone. The gun incorporates a valve tag the tip of the barrel. Ive used the same can/gun setup for a couple of years without problem. There’s a bit of upfront cost ($20-$30) with this solution, but the foam makes a great adhesive… as you clearly shared so it’s worth it. Oh,the spray foam also cuts well with a hot wire “knife”. One more thing: Thank you so much for the wonderful, inspiring videos!
Derek, I have never used the spray cleaner through my gun, though it is recommended if it isn’t going to be used for a while. In my experience, the valve at the end of the tip of my gun does a VERY good job of sealing the nozzle barrel from moisture; which causes the polyurethane to cure. I just checked my AWF Pro gun, which has had the same foam canister on it for at least two years, and it still flows great. (I haven’t touched it since last Halloween prep completed approximately year ago. By the way, my gun has a lock nut which puts some extra pressure on the tip valve, assuring it’s closed well. For me, the gun has addressed the one flaw with using GreatStuff as a foam glue… which you called out in your video. I’d bet you’ll never have a problem with prematurely cured foam since you are constantly building props throughout the year.
I believe I'm correct in saying that Great Stuff/expanding foam of any brand, works much better if you mist the areas to be glued with water, much like the Gorilla glue. As you say Derek, both will do the job well, but for me the expanding foam wins hands down simply due to the cost aspect, especially if you're gluing large areas.
While this is true, most polyurethane glues sold at big box hardware stores is of the thick construction adhesive style, which in my experience does not work as well for foam.
How exactly did Gorilla Glue win by 2 points? Great stuff scored two points higher on the final two categories, yet somehow Gorilla Glue jumped ahead by two points! Fixed!!
![BRASIL vs. URUGUAY [1-1] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-hWBAuxF1eY/mqdefault.jpg)
Another thing to test glues for is if they can be cut with hot wire after glue has set!
Yes that would be a good test. He would need to bring in some better glues though. There are many other adhesives to test that are way better than great stuff.
Gorilla glue passes the hot wire test, but can gum up and be a little difficult to pasa through
Both 3M and Gorilla Glue Spray adhesives work great with foam and set up very quickly.
Looks like I chose the wrong week to stop sniffing glue...
Ha ha
🤣🤣🤣
Lol and don’t call me shirley
Like it, I can see Lloyd Bridges and it still cracks me up..pex
His hair!
More tips for Gorilla Glue: (1) Use a stick or brush to make a film on the whole part to avoid glued/unglued areas maximizing the bond and minimizing between-part gaps. (2) For smaller parts just breathe heavily on the glue instead of adding water. The moisture in you breath seems to do the trick. (3) Finally, clamping or a lot of weigh is helpful, because the glue wants to expand.
I work in a scene shop and we work large sheets of foam that need to be CNC and hand carved. We use Spray 78 polystyrene glue for all of our foam adhesion. We get the small aerosol cans for detail work, but also have 29 pound cans with hoses for large work. It is a contact adhesive, so you need to know how to work with that type of adhesive and keep the parts separated until they are aligned. There is a short wait time between spraying and assembly, but once attached the parts are secure. You also have 100% adhesive coverage and minimal gapping.
I'll have to give that a try. Thanks for the tip!
Both Gorilla Glue and Great Stuff do have some very basic similiarities, being they are both urethane-based glues. As such, the addition of moisture will help both cure quicker. And, for the best bond with both of them, it helps to roughen up both sides of what you want to bond together. This will in turn provide more surface for the adhesives to grab onto. And, both adhesives WILL foam as they cure, (being that Great Stuff is a foam to begin with, it will obviously foam more).
Love the vids and tips, and always blown away by your voice too. It’s perfect for narrating.
Thank you. Glad you like them!
I'm in the process of a glue up with white Styrofoam blocks to make a faux stone arch. I chose Great Stuff. After applying the Great Stuff, I smashed and rotated the blocks to smooth out the Great Stuff. After 24 hours, its been really strong for the arch itself and most important the gap is really small. I'm quite happy with using Great Stuff!
Super glue melts Styrofoam so I figure gorilla glue will do the same
Many varieties of great stuff. The kind used in this video is not great for structural strength when gluing your polystyrene.
I was using PL300 which is basically liquid nails and this year I switched to Gorilla glue. I have been way happier with the Gorilla glue. Once I understood using a bit of water and clamping it yielded superior results for sure. Clean up of the Great Stuff is still enough of a pain to avoid it.
My recommendation if using the spray foam (great stuff) for big glue ups or you do a lot of glue ups is to get the dispensing gun that take the screw on canisters. They have a adjuster to allow small beads or large beads of foam. You also don’t have to clean them right away, as the foam is sealed in the tube of the gun.
I drill holes in the foam board and lightly mist with water so the gorilla glue can expand and essentially become dowels. Holds very well.
Now that's a great idea! Thanks for sharing it.
@@VanOaksProps I used this process with great stuff bark on the tree I made this year. I drilled holes in the pool noodle used to give the tree some dimension as well because nothing wants to stick to them very well except masking tape. I was not covering this tree with 10 rolls of tape!
I like to use wood glue, Titebond specifically, for sealing the outside the foam for painting. Can’t say I’ve ever tried to use it for actual adhesion though, pretty much for the same conclusion you came to here.
I use both of them. I like the Greatstuff for pieces that I need fill as well as glue... like bits with pipe through them!
Very informative! I wouldn't have thought to consider how well it carves, so I'm particularly glad you included that criteria in your judging.
Good to have the carving in there, but insulation foam is rarely carved. Polystyrene on the other hand...
Thanks for another great tutorial. I watched another RUclipsr who used Great Stuff with foam board. He sprayed. pressed together, then took apart and pressed together again. Said it took the expand out but kept the bond properties.
Great tip!
Definitely need to try a spray adhesive for more coverage and some manufacturer makes a foam construction adhesive that can be used in a caulk gun that i imagine is strong
Great test! All of them had parts that had no adhesive and seemed to be relying on about 1/4" to maybe 3/4" of adhesive surface area. I'd really like to see an "ease of coverage" test, where you try to spread the glue on the surface to get more coverage. Also, maybe some spray adhesives to test out! And maybe a hot wire test to see how well they cut.
What a terrific test! You are such a treasure to the maker community… I can see where Great Stuff would be nice especially to fill gaps and/or help make more structure. But for quick gluing of pieces, I’d go Gorilla Glue all day long. Great Stuff can be messy and as you said, you need to clue it up pronto or you will risk ruining the rest of the can. Best of all, though, is that it’s nice to know we have options. Thanks for doing this test and sharing the results! This channel is so awesome! 👍🏼
Thank you!
The difficulty with greatstuff is unless you use bamboo skewers or tooth picks to keep the piece together, the pieces tend to slide of each other when stacked up with a weight on top.
It is my go-to for my builds and home projects. It is very easy for repairs. The cross on my wife's Zero doghouse tombstone broke off. A skewer and a shot of great stuff fixed it good as new.
I've always used gorilla glue and love it. I've used multiple versions. Great informative video!
Thank you!
Nice comparison. I immediately thought of Todd from project farm and while not nearly as in depth this is great informative video
My two preferences are Great Stuff and Gorilla Construction Adhesive. Great Stuff I use on areas where I know I'll be doing a lot of carving and the construction adhesive between large pieces that won't be carved as much. For example... if I have a part of a large tombstone where I'm creating a box (top, bottom, and 4 sides, I use construction adhesive to bond the edges. Typically I won't need to work on it much and can put it aside and let it cure overnight.
I'll use all these in a pinch, though. 😀
Now what to use for glueing foam to other materials? Like wood or plastic?
thanks again, have been using spray foam for quite a while because I've found it bonds really well. Will give the gorilla glue a shot now :) mostly because of the clean up!
Thank you very much for this. If you ever get a chance, give Clear Gorilla Glue a chance. Think you will find the same qualities with the white version but without and foam/lifting. Been my go to for a couple years now. Keep up the great work!!!
Agree. Also have had success with Titebond Melamine however has been harder to find in small containers.
Thanks for the video.. Loctite 1421930 is a cartridge dispensed adhesive made specifically for foam. Might give it a try.
Thanks. How about a test of cured glued that cut the best in a hot wire cutter. Great job.
Both the great stuff and gorilla glue cut well with a hot knife, since they're foam. The other adhesives, not so much. They gummed up the tools.
So many product options and opinions. These videos are great!! I just purchased StyroGoo from Hot Wire Foam because I am really looking for a “guaranteed” not going anywhere deal. First time using it, so fingers crossed!!!
I let the Great Stuff dry in the nozzle after use. Then clean the nozzle with an 1/8" drill bit, only takes a second, back in business.
Great information! Wish I had seen this back in 2020. I love working with the pink insulation board. Nice information for those of us working on projects using it.
Great comparison...one thing though, I wish you had included contact cement & 3M 77. I may be remembering wrong but I think I've seen both used quite often with foam boards.
Anything with a solvent, like 77, tends to melt foam. Contact cement, on the other hand, I’ve never used for foam but feel like ease of use and cleanup would be a pain
How about glueing foam to fiberglass or plastic. What's your gut feeling on that task. Thanks for the video.😊
Gorilla glue would still be my first choice, I think. I'd also consider 5 minute epoxy.
I think both Gorilla Glue and Great Stuff have some utility depending on your use. For smaller props like tombstones or decorative greeblings, I like Gorilla Glue, but for larger set pieces, Great Stuff I think has more inherent strength.
Something I found interesting was the fact that Gorilla does foam up and expand a little like Great Stuff would, but to a much smaller degree.
Do any of the glues prohibit or make using hot wire foam cutting more difficult?
The titebond and liquid nails didn’t work will with a hot wire tool
I absolutely love Titebond III on foam, but only on two cut surfaces so that it gets a little air mixed in the process and can cure well. I’ll share that in trying to adhere the factory faces like that, I have had good results with the foam-specific 3M 78 spray. They did pop apart eventually, but it took over a decade in weather. Once one did it on its own due to exposure I found I was able to force the other few slabs that had been left in the same condition to separate nearly perfectly cleanly (I was repurposing them anyway), but a few spots stayed thoroughly adhered and broke chunks off between them, so I was very impressed to see that kind of result after so long! (We’re in the Midwest US for weather context.)
I use the Great Stuff Pro. The gun make cleanup a lot easier. When you use the pro gun the cost also goes down. Cheaper to buy and a lot less waist.
If doing large pieces use PPG Gripper it’s a primer so you just paint it on and press the pieces together. Holds just a strong as great stuff but has to dry over night for 24hrs.
Thanks for the great video! You might give Permatex Heavy Duty Automotive Headliner Adhesive a try. It is the only spray glue I've found that does not eat foam, and, for me, it is a quicker solution when I'm trying to assemble foam parts.
I’ll have to check it out
Thank you for the video. Question, I have some 1" thick acoustic foam panels that I want to glue to wood in my garage to prevent door dings. I tried adhesive stickers from 3M and they only lasted for about 1 day and my 16" x 4ft panels fell to the ground. I thought they were just bad stickers but the humidity made it worse and I wasted many stickers trying to get these very light-weight panels to stick. Any glue advice would be appreciated.
I’d check out E6000. It takes a while to setup but once it’s cured it’s tough as nails.
Hmm could have used this info on my last build. 🙂
Great video idea! Helps to see someone do some testing to help make a choice!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much!!!! How about a foam to wood Test?
Great suggestion!
My biggest issue with foam (be it FloraFoam, EPS, or what have you) is finding the right adhesive for glueing *other materials* to the foam without dissolving any of them. 😭
Great overview, and as always nicely produced comparison. quick question, the two finalists work well with the Pink Insulation foam, But can these also work for repairing broken and dinged manufactured tombstones from Spirit, Home Depot etc. gotta few that need some attention and want to be sure not to damage them any further.. Thanks
They should.
Thank you.
Have you tried GluDown Foam Board Adhesive.... I would say it is the best and the fastest cure times!!
I have not. As a matter of fact I've never even heard of it. I'll have to look into that.
I always use Gorilla Glue. It's a lot easier to use and less messy than Great Stuff and it works great. Especially if you clamp your pieces together.
Wood glue and salt.
The salt helps with any shear force and and also drys faster.
I don't know that it would matter, since the wood glue needs air to dry and anything toward the middle of your foam pieces wouldn't cure because the outer edges would prevent air from reaching it.
If you use a lot of great stuff look for the contractor cans that you buy a better nozzle that only dispensers from the tip and they sell acetone cans with the same top to clean the nozzle... No waste!
If you use Great Stuff Windows and Doors, it has a less expansion size but does just as well. It is a little more $$ though.
I was wondering if the glue would work directly on the foam. These were used to glue a couple pieces of paper that lined the foam.
The glues were used directly on the foam.
Thank you so much for this brother !
I'm curious what is best to glue foam to something like wood.
Titebond 3 is used for Poor Man's Fiberglass. It bonds canvas to the foam and is resistant to water. I don't use it to glue foam together. for that, I use Great Stuff.
Great tip!
If you’re gluing foam I’m not sure using this for sheets is what some of those are designed for. Super or any CA glue is great especially for Eva foam. Titebond is pretty much good for wood not much else. Rubber cement is always usually.
Thanks for the info!
I'm kind of surprised you didn't give Loctite PL300 a chance.
It's water cleanup and has high initial tack but perhaps takes too long to cure for your kind of work.
I haven’t heard of it. I’ll have to check it out
@@VanOaksProps They claim 20 minute set, but days for full cure. Comes in a 10.2oz caulk tube.
I'm in construction and we use plenty of it for EPS and XPS foam board, but once installed that stuff doesn't really get handled like your prop work.
Might be worth a few$ to see if it works for you.
Thanks for another informative episode! 👍 I always get new ideas and look at 'off label' applications for my projects when you post.
@@jimurrata6785 I've used PL300 for years on all of my foam work. As far as set time, I just use either deck screws or wooden skewers to hold the pieces together until the glue sets up. It doesn't sand or cut with a hot knife, but it holds well and has a bit of flex to it.
A nice detail to include in the video would be what kind of foam you are using, as polystyrene is very different than polyethelyne or polyurethane
Yes, you are right
I have not found any gorilla product that works for me except for their duct tape. But I prefer 3m. Pex
Very informative video! Thanks!
Interesting. Well done
The first time I made props out of foam, it was EPS and I used gorilla glue. I wasn't aware of the water activation or the expansion. So, the next day I went out to the dining room where I had crested an ersatz workshop and found several large pieces of EPS foam securely glued to the dining room carpet.😱😂🤣😁
Very interesting. I have had good results using 3m super 77 spray for this type of foam also.
Very quick to use, almost too fast sometimes. Works great for gluing small pieces onto a larger piece.
Awesome video and test, very helpful. I have a question if you would be so kind; I need to glue Polyethylene high density foam (like a yoga roll tube) to a hard plastic (Ascend 133x Kayak). Do you have any opinions? Thank you in advance
E6000 would be my first choice.
@@VanOaksProps, thank you so much!
E6000 and super glue dissolve foam along with spray on Elmer's glue. I learned this from tests I did for my own projects so I can say these should be avoided if you're gluing foam pieces.
I believe I watched or heard that if you take the great stuff spray it on the surface place the two pieces together move them around to spread the stuff then pull the pieces apart for a moment then put it back together the foam does not expand and your left with the adhesive. But I may be wrong, and I haven't tried it yet. Just thought I'd share.
You should have included silicone in that....plus is ok for outdoor use
I'll add it to the list for next time.
I was looking for the best glue for holding foam on metal
I don't know that there is one that would do it reliably. You're better off using screws.
Can you do a test with the different glues, gluing PVC pipe to foam board? Something tells me that gorilla glue would still come out on top.
It’s pretty likely that it would.
How good is hot glue? I’m sure the adhesion isn’t as good as GG or GS, but for ease of use and cost I would think it would be a good option. If it keeps the pieces stuck, of course. 😆
It’s good but application can be tricky to prevent it from melting the foam.
I used hot glue on my first set of tombstones. It worked well but like Derek said, mind your temperatures. I mainly just use it for details now like gluing in ivy or moss
@@PowerChordEPS Cool - thanks!
What is your take on gripper primers? Glidden Gripper used to be the goat bonder for large sheets of XPS, but it's not being made anymore.
I’ve never had good luck with it
Bonding primers are great. Lowe’s has a Valspar Bonding primer that is a nice substitute for the old glidden gripper. Perfect for joining two flat surfaces. No gaps, carvable with shaver or hot knife. Gorilla is my go to for uneven surfaces, but you really should try a bonding primer for flat surfaces like this test.
They still make it, it is now called PPG seal grip. New name same formula. Still works great for me.
You are a blessing!
Thanks so much!
Does it do any good to sand the boards surfaces before glueing?
Not that I've ever found.
Great video, thank you!
Glad you liked it!
I love your channel ❤️
Thank you so much!!
You should of went with the pl300 glue... it works way better
I’ve never heard of it but I’ll check it out
What metals are best to use with these foams
What are you building that requires metal to be attached to foam?
Would normal gorilla glue be fine, as opposed to white?
Yes. It just takes a little longer to set up.
which glue for plastic and cardboard together
I’d use 5 minute epoxy.
What is best foam board to metal?
I’d go with Gorilla Glue.
Sooooooo, with the cost per ounce how much gorilla glue did you use compared to Great Stuff?
I didn't weigh them so I don't know. I solely based it on the purchase cost since it's not sold by the ounce.
I have to bond XPS end to end length wise. Would dowels help along with gorilla glue? Any tips?
Absolutely.
What type and brand of foam was tested?
Owens Corning XPS foam. Dow also makes an XPS foam that is blue in color. There are others, but those are the two most common.
3M 5005 polyurethane adhesive.
I'll have to check it out.
Great video
Thanks!
Using a foam “gun” nozzle eliminates the need for cleanup with acetone. The gun incorporates a valve tag the tip of the barrel. Ive used the same can/gun setup for a couple of years without problem. There’s a bit of upfront cost ($20-$30) with this solution, but the foam makes a great adhesive… as you clearly shared so it’s worth it. Oh,the spray foam also cuts well with a hot wire “knife”.
One more thing: Thank you so much for the wonderful, inspiring videos!
You need to use some kind of pressurized cleaner to blow the uncured foam from the gun, right?
Derek, I have never used the spray cleaner through my gun, though it is recommended if it isn’t going to be used for a while. In my experience, the valve at the end of the tip of my gun does a VERY good job of sealing the nozzle barrel from moisture; which causes the polyurethane to cure. I just checked my AWF Pro gun, which has had the same foam canister on it for at least two years, and it still flows great. (I haven’t touched it since last Halloween prep completed approximately year ago. By the way, my gun has a lock nut which puts some extra pressure on the tip valve, assuring it’s closed well.
For me, the gun has addressed the one flaw with using GreatStuff as a foam glue… which you called out in your video. I’d bet you’ll never have a problem with prematurely cured foam since you are constantly building props throughout the year.
I need to glue florafoam to glass plates, anyone have any suggestions?
Possibly e6000. I believe it will bond with both foam and glass, but the dry time can be long.
Awesome, thanks for sharing 🎃💀☠️🦇
Where does Surebonder cosplay fit in?
Hot glue on styrofoam is a different animal.
I prefer Foam Tac.
I’ll have to give that a shot.
Ah, the age-old questions. Why am I here, is there life after death and what is the best glue for styrofoam 😂
I believe I'm correct in saying that Great Stuff/expanding foam of any brand, works much better if you mist the areas to be glued with water, much like the Gorilla glue. As you say Derek, both will do the job well, but for me the expanding foam wins hands down simply due to the cost aspect, especially if you're gluing large areas.
Nope. Beg to differ. Bob Smith Industries “foam-cure” craft glue all the way. Sets in a few minutes, strong bond, transparent. It’s awesome stuff.
I’ve never heard of it. I’ll have to give it a try.
Clean up the 1-2-3 blocks!
I really need to.
If you had the great stuff pro gun you'd be in a different category.
The gun still needs to be cleaned which was where Gorilla Glue beat Great Stuff. It’s definitely a good method though.
These test pieces don't look like bare foam. It appears to have a backing.
Nope. No backing.
Gorilla Glue is just polyurethane glue, just buy from your local diy store and save money! The Gorilla range is just branding to hike prices!
While this is true, most polyurethane glues sold at big box hardware stores is of the thick construction adhesive style, which in my experience does not work as well for foam.
How exactly did Gorilla Glue win by 2 points? Great stuff scored two points higher on the final two categories, yet somehow Gorilla Glue jumped ahead by two points! Fixed!!
The math is accurate.
Super77 outperforms all categories. Not sure about cost, but it is worth every penny.
Scuff the foam board first! My goodness how many times do we have to do this on YouTUB!
Why when you can find adhesives that work without it?
uh.. my silly ass has always just used spray adhesive for this.
If it works for you then I say stick with it.