Great to see how you do it but I had to laugh when (like everyone above a certain age) you flip from Imperial to metric and back again. The 2ft 9 doors plus the frame and architrave equals 900mm 🤣🤣🤣. Priceless 🤣🤣🤣👍🏻
Its bonkers Tony🤪 I see so many guys that do exactly the same. Here in the UK we are truly stuck between metric and imperial. We buy our fuel in litres, my measure fuel efficiency in miles per gallon, and the construction industry doesn't know whether its coming or going with measuring😆 Great comment and thanks for watching😎 Cheers Del
Hi there. Its absolutely my pleasure to share the knowledge I have accuulated during my carpentry career.😎 Its even better when I get comments like yours showing your appreciation.🤩Thanks for watching.👍
The noggin stick is a fantastic trick! Just the clean look at the end. Also, i owe you a coffee..... I put the extra row of noggins in for the kitchen units etc like you mentioned and the kitchen fitter gave me a tenner to buy myself a cup of tea. Haha! I told him and his crew about your channel too..
Hi Garviel. I'm absolutely made up that you got a drink from the kitchen guys👊 It's worth a tenner all day long to have a nice, easy fixing for the wall units as it saves time and additional fixings😎 Teamwork makes the dreamwork mate🤩 Thanks for putting your little win in the comments 😎 Cheers Del.
Hi JD🖐I also have been using a noggin stick since my apprenticeship, but the penny only dropped about the leading edges a few years ago🤔Certainly saves you having to smash out with a hammer each time👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
The fact is Jony, that if you've fitted a kitchen without anything decent to fix the wall units to, you'll jump at any opportunity make it easier for yourself.😎 Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍
Noggin stick great idea, like having a third hand. I put mine in a straight line also. I noticed you put dcp under the frame but didn't notice it along the wall. I know it's extra material but a lot of times I make the stud wall up on the floor and then stand it in on top of the 4x2 fixed to the floor and wall. Gives extra material to fix skirting boards and plater boards to later
Hi Dan. Building control odes not ask for the DPC to be behind the studs that go against any masonry walls🙄 I tend to cut each stud individually, as the floor is never parallel to the ceiling, and I will sometimes put a double or even triple floor plate down, but it just depends on what the builder/customer wants🤔Thanks again for watching my videos🤩Cheers Del
The noggin stick is a great nailing aid I'd say, I always measure the bottom/end of the stud/joist bay. Never in the middle as the studs/joists are never perfectly straight, 🔨🇮🇪
Hi TN. I cut a few at the correct spacing and fit them, and then measure using a level against the stud to make sure I'm keeping on track. 😎 Thanks for your comment.
Hi Mark. I'm not a fan of concrete screws/fixings for fixing timber to blockwork or concrete as I find I cant get them to pull the timber tight to the block/concrete surface without drilling a secondary clearance hole in the timber. I find plugs and screws a more adaptable fixing method. (maybe I'm also a little set in my ways). Thanks for watching and you comment.😎 Cheers.
Do you guys ever use powder actuated tools such as the Hiltis and Ramsets? I sometimes like to pin my bottom plate to the slab with one and then go back and fix it down with concrete screws. I find it a little easier especially when using 16-20 foot lengths of treated lumber as they are rarely straight.
Hi there🖐Yes, I do use a Hilti DX450 shot nailer, but only ever for fixing to steel👊I can see you're point though about using one to pin down longer plates just to get set up though👍Thanks for watching bud and for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
I tend to find that plastic plugs and screws are more versatile and cover a wide range of fixing options despite there probably being a better suited, specific fixing available. 😎
Question looks like there is no outside sheathing on the walls. No wood just cement blocks. Why is that? Is that just to save money? I’m just wondering why there’s no sheathing I know that’s supposed to be structure support. Is that why you put in the Noggins the wood between the studs?
Hi Adam. This was amongst the first of my video making attempts and I really should have explained how and why I do things better than I did.😬 I put each stud in position on the sole plate and then up past the mark on the head plate, and run my pencil across at that point. This makes each stud exactly the right length with no measuring at all. I have done a more recent video where you can see me doing this marking.😎 Thanks for your comment and for watching.
How far apart is your trusses or some people say bottom Chords how far is the distance between one to the other I am wondering because I have a garage that’s converted into a house and they have a drop ceiling on it and my trusses are 48 inches apart and I want to hang drywall from them. so I think I need to put a brand new 26 foot long wood 2x6x26 board in
Hi there🖐The trusses are spaced at 600mm/24" centers, and think, as you suggested, that you may have to fix additional timers to take your drywall boards👍Cheers Del
Hi JP🖐I/we also used to do it like that, as it was much quicker to tack the ceiling AND you didn't have to put noggins in everywhere to support the plasterboard/fix the head plates to. We stopped doing that way for a few reasons which were. We started to see cracks along the board joints, especially on bigger ceilings, so tacking after the walls went in broke the ceiling up into smaller sections. On low pitched roofs, it made it a really awful job for the sparkies to 1st fix, especially getting wires down to the outer walls, and finally, the tackers didn't have to make a separate visit to site just to do the ceiling, they just came and did the walls, ceilings and dot and dabbing all in one go👍 I'm not saying I wouldn't do it this way anymore, just would have to be the right job😎Cheers Del
Hi Peter. I only put noggins in to fix the wall units to. The floor units have gravity on their side, and I usually bond the low level ones to the finished wall surface and fix the top of ant tall units into the wall unit noggins.😎 (I explain this a bit more in my kitchen fitting basics videos👍) Thanks for your comment.
Your doin a great job but I think you should at least try making frames up. It is the certainly the faster method in my opinion. Anyone that is fast using your method will be even faster after 4 or 5 houses of framing. Every stick you cut is individual rather than stacking together and zipping either a wall off at a time or if the ceiling height is constant cut the lot to the tightets height as a pack on some stools. You can leave your hop up in the van for a while rather than constantly being up and down on it too as ceiling nogs are done after walls are up using your uprights to set the centres. I do however love the chamfers on the nog stick....in 35 years I have never seen that before.
Hi Steve. Cutting all the studs the same length simply doesn't work when the floor is rough cast, oversite concrete that can vary by an inch or more. If I'm timber framing/stick building off a level, flat floor, then, yes, it's much quicker to cut all the studs the same. I have other videos showing this method👊 Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi there🖐There are special screws for fixing timber to steel👍 I use these but still counter drill first with the right size HSS drill bit😎Thanks for watching 🤩Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Because it is good practice. there is no difference between the solid wall and the floor, both are damp proofed and insulated but still subject to hot and cold spots due to temperature change. The same way I always dpc roof wall plates. Just something I have always done. Love the channel keep up the good work.
Like the beginner. No airtightness level first? What is your raster? Not 1.25m for osb and fermacell? And what for is the worden horizontal in the Wall? For stabilisation? Return to school.!!!!
Hi Rob🖐That block represents the small return nib of the wall that allows me to fix the door lining to and still allow a full architrave to be fitted👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi there. First I cut enough of one end so I can phisically position the stud on the plates to direct mark it without it hitting the trusses/noggins, and, obviously, the 2nd is its cut to that mark.😎 Thanks for your comment.👍
Another great instructional video, love the tip on the noggin stick thank you for sharing your knowledge again
Hi Stephen. Thanks for your comment.😎Noggin stick saves me a lot of time.👍Cheers
Thanks so much, I’ve picked up great tips from you, very grateful, bless you.
Hi Paul. Your more than welcome.🤩 Thanks for your comment.👍
Great tips as always cheers for posting!
Appreciate your comment James🤗Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Coping this method for my house extension thanks for all the tips and advice
My pleasure Richard😎Cheers Del
Lovely video Del - thanks for sharing.
My pleasure Adrian😎Thanks for watching
Great to see how you do it but I had to laugh when (like everyone above a certain age) you flip from Imperial to metric and back again. The 2ft 9 doors plus the frame and architrave equals 900mm 🤣🤣🤣. Priceless 🤣🤣🤣👍🏻
Its bonkers Tony🤪 I see so many guys that do exactly the same. Here in the UK we are truly stuck between metric and imperial. We buy our fuel in litres, my measure fuel efficiency in miles per gallon, and the construction industry doesn't know whether its coming or going with measuring😆 Great comment and thanks for watching😎 Cheers Del
Thanks for the vids and sharing your knowledge.
Hi there. Its absolutely my pleasure to share the knowledge I have accuulated during my carpentry career.😎 Its even better when I get comments like yours showing your appreciation.🤩Thanks for watching.👍
You should patent those noggin sticks.🪚💰good idea 👌🏽
Hi Alex. I just think it makes it easier for fixing them.😎 Thanks for watching and your comment.👍Cheers
Lots of great tips in this vid.
Thanks for watching Anthony.🤩
love the use of metric and imperial. I do it all the time
Hi Robert. It is funny that we are metric but only sometimes.🤣 Its definitely a building game thing. 🤪 Cheers.
Great video again easy layout inspiration m8👏👏
Hi David. Appreciate your comment.😎 Have a good day.
Thats how I was taught to do noggins on the on new builds many moons ago top job and radiator patreses
Thanks for your comment David.🤩 Have a nice weekend.👍
Great channel 👍👍
Thank you Colin😎Cheers Del
The noggin stick is a fantastic trick! Just the clean look at the end.
Also,
i owe you a coffee.....
I put the extra row of noggins in for the kitchen units etc like you mentioned and the kitchen fitter gave me a tenner to buy myself a cup of tea. Haha! I told him and his crew about your channel too..
Hi Garviel. I'm absolutely made up that you got a drink from the kitchen guys👊 It's worth a tenner all day long to have a nice, easy fixing for the wall units as it saves time and additional fixings😎 Teamwork makes the dreamwork mate🤩 Thanks for putting your little win in the comments 😎 Cheers Del.
Used a nog stick since my apprenticeship, how did I never think of that leading edge
Hi JD🖐I also have been using a noggin stick since my apprenticeship, but the penny only dropped about the leading edges a few years ago🤔Certainly saves you having to smash out with a hammer each time👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Nice to see someone think about the kitchen units. That's how I do it but surprising how many kitchens I've fit where where his nothing.
The fact is Jony, that if you've fitted a kitchen without anything decent to fix the wall units to, you'll jump at any opportunity make it easier for yourself.😎 Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍
@@thetallcarpenter that's 100%correct.
Wow, proper planning a head.
Hi there. It certainly make things easier further down the line.😎 Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍
Thank you.
Hi Joe. You're welcome!👍Cheers
Noggin stick great idea, like having a third hand. I put mine in a straight line also. I noticed you put dcp under the frame but didn't notice it along the wall.
I know it's extra material but a lot of times I make the stud wall up on the floor and then stand it in on top of the 4x2 fixed to the floor and wall. Gives extra material to fix skirting boards and plater boards to later
Hi Dan. Building control odes not ask for the DPC to be behind the studs that go against any masonry walls🙄 I tend to cut each stud individually, as the floor is never parallel to the ceiling, and I will sometimes put a double or even triple floor plate down, but it just depends on what the builder/customer wants🤔Thanks again for watching my videos🤩Cheers Del
The noggin stick is a great nailing aid I'd say, I always measure the bottom/end of the stud/joist bay. Never in the middle as the studs/joists are never perfectly straight, 🔨🇮🇪
Hi TN. I cut a few at the correct spacing and fit them, and then measure using a level against the stud to make sure I'm keeping on track. 😎 Thanks for your comment.
@@thetallcarpenter They always have a tendency to creep a bit especially over longer runs, 👍🔨🇮🇪
@@TheToolnut 🙈👍
Nice work. Ever use concrete screws to fix the timber to block?
Do you fix the floor plate with the same fixing?
Hi Mark. I'm not a fan of concrete screws/fixings for fixing timber to blockwork or concrete as I find I cant get them to pull the timber tight to the block/concrete surface without drilling a secondary clearance hole in the timber. I find plugs and screws a more adaptable fixing method. (maybe I'm also a little set in my ways). Thanks for watching and you comment.😎 Cheers.
Do you guys ever use powder actuated tools such as the Hiltis and Ramsets? I sometimes like to pin my bottom plate to the slab with one and then go back and fix it down with concrete screws. I find it a little easier especially when using 16-20 foot lengths of treated lumber as they are rarely straight.
Hi there🖐Yes, I do use a Hilti DX450 shot nailer, but only ever for fixing to steel👊I can see you're point though about using one to pin down longer plates just to get set up though👍Thanks for watching bud and for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
A very appropriate name for your channel. Ever used a hop-up?
Great work, loved your Jack Rafters video.
Hi there. I rarely need a hop up, but have got one in case I need a sit down.😫 Thanks for your comment.👍
@@thetallcarpenter 😂
Great idea that noggin stick,thanks
Hi Jason. I find it easier than trying to put noggins in to a line and its pretty quick. 👍 Thanks for your comment. 😎Cheers.
Just a question', wondering why you chose those fixings over a dyna bolt?
I tend to find that plastic plugs and screws are more versatile and cover a wide range of fixing options despite there probably being a better suited, specific fixing available. 😎
Question looks like there is no outside sheathing on the walls. No wood just cement blocks. Why is that? Is that just to save money? I’m just wondering why there’s no sheathing I know that’s supposed to be structure support. Is that why you put in the Noggins the wood between the studs?
Hi there🖐All the internal walls are non load bearing, so only need to have plasterboard fixed to them👍Cheers Del
When you cut your uprights do you have to measure each one individually?
As the heights won't always be the exact same ?
Hi Adam. This was amongst the first of my video making attempts and I really should have explained how and why I do things better than I did.😬 I put each stud in position on the sole plate and then up past the mark on the head plate, and run my pencil across at that point. This makes each stud exactly the right length with no measuring at all. I have done a more recent video where you can see me doing this marking.😎 Thanks for your comment and for watching.
@@thetallcarpenter
Thank you 😁👍
Great videos
@@adamhadfield6536 🤩
How far apart is your trusses or some people say bottom Chords how far is the distance between one to the other I am wondering because I have a garage that’s converted into a house and they have a drop ceiling on it and my trusses are 48 inches apart and I want to hang drywall from them. so I think I need to put a brand new 26 foot long wood 2x6x26 board in
Hi there🖐The trusses are spaced at 600mm/24" centers, and think, as you suggested, that you may have to fix additional timers to take your drywall boards👍Cheers Del
Del we use to nogg out cieling then gyp rock cieling then put stud work up what do you think off that method
Hi JP🖐I/we also used to do it like that, as it was much quicker to tack the ceiling AND you didn't have to put noggins in everywhere to support the plasterboard/fix the head plates to. We stopped doing that way for a few reasons which were. We started to see cracks along the board joints, especially on bigger ceilings, so tacking after the walls went in broke the ceiling up into smaller sections. On low pitched roofs, it made it a really awful job for the sparkies to 1st fix, especially getting wires down to the outer walls, and finally, the tackers didn't have to make a separate visit to site just to do the ceiling, they just came and did the walls, ceilings and dot and dabbing all in one go👍 I'm not saying I wouldn't do it this way anymore, just would have to be the right job😎Cheers Del
Very thorough video, thank you . Do the kitchen units need noggins for top and bottom fixings or are kitchen wall units only fitted top ?
Hi Peter. I only put noggins in to fix the wall units to. The floor units have gravity on their side, and I usually bond the low level ones to the finished wall surface and fix the top of ant tall units into the wall unit noggins.😎 (I explain this a bit more in my kitchen fitting basics videos👍) Thanks for your comment.
Random question but does the DPC under the base plate need attaching / stapling etc or does it simply rest on it.
Hi there. I just put the odd staple in to hold it in place before I lay it down and fix it👍 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter Top man, just made my first stud wall! Only another 4 to go.
@@RollCorruption Sounds great mate🤩 Keep going👊
@@thetallcarpenter Good news, BCO was impressed with my first crack at studwork! - Thanks again. Saved me a fortune :D
@@RollCorruption That's great to hear mate🤩 Got to keep Mr. Inspector happy👍 Cheers
great work but you need a gap between top plates and the bottom cord of the trusses for deflection and fixed with a slotted angle bracket cheers mate
Hi Jack. I've not heard of that before.😬 Will have a chat with building inspector when he's next on site.👍Cheers
Your doin a great job but I think you should at least try making frames up. It is the certainly the faster method in my opinion. Anyone that is fast using your method will be even faster after 4 or 5 houses of framing. Every stick you cut is individual rather than stacking together and zipping either a wall off at a time or if the ceiling height is constant cut the lot to the tightets height as a pack on some stools. You can leave your hop up in the van for a while rather than constantly being up and down on it too as ceiling nogs are done after walls are up using your uprights to set the centres. I do however love the chamfers on the nog stick....in 35 years I have never seen that before.
Hi Steve. Cutting all the studs the same length simply doesn't work when the floor is rough cast, oversite concrete that can vary by an inch or more. If I'm timber framing/stick building off a level, flat floor, then, yes, it's much quicker to cut all the studs the same. I have other videos showing this method👊 Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
What opening do you leave for a 2’6 door
Hi there. 825mm for 2'6" door.👍 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter 33" in old money, 👍🔨🇮🇪
@@TheToolnut 👍😎
Doesn't nail gun mean squeak in the future?
Hi there🖐There will be no squeaking as the wall suffers no flex once its complete👍Cheers Del
I have to fix a studwork header plate to an RSJ, what method is best for a DiYer please?
Hi there🖐There are special screws for fixing timber to steel👍 I use these but still counter drill first with the right size HSS drill bit😎Thanks for watching 🤩Cheers Del
We call noggins Dwangs in Bonny Scotland.
Hi Dez. I could ask why you call them Dwangs up there, but I'm not actually sure why we call then Noggins down here.🤪 Cheers.
There should be dpc on the studs against the block walls.
Why's that then Jim🤔
@@thetallcarpenter Because it is good practice. there is no difference between the solid wall and the floor, both are damp proofed and insulated but still subject to hot and cold spots due to temperature change. The same way I always dpc roof wall plates. Just something I have always done. Love the channel keep up the good work.
@@jimmurphy4083 Fair play to you Jim👍and you really go the extra mile👌Thanks for watching bud, and your comments🤩Cheers Del
Like the beginner. No airtightness level first? What is your raster? Not 1.25m for osb and fermacell? And what for is the worden horizontal in the Wall? For stabilisation? Return to school.!!!!
Your comments are great.🤩 Cheers.
At 1:40 I would love to known what that little piece of timber is for on the floor next to the soul plate...
Hi Rob🖐That block represents the small return nib of the wall that allows me to fix the door lining to and still allow a full architrave to be fitted👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter hey del, thanks mate. So do you fix that to the floor as you do with soul plates?
@@thetallcarpenter I think it's sinking in...... so the arch doesn't foul on the plasterboard wall...? 🥴
@@RobBoFr Yes Rob, I try and get at least one fixing to the floor in it👍
@@RobBoFr You got it bud👊
Either you're very tall or that's a very low ceiling
Bit of both John😉Cheers Del
mate why are you cutting each stick twice, double the work lol
Hi there. First I cut enough of one end so I can phisically position the stud on the plates to direct mark it without it hitting the trusses/noggins, and, obviously, the 2nd is its cut to that mark.😎 Thanks for your comment.👍