Setting out and building timber stud walls in a single storey bungalow***PLUS LOTS OF TIPS***
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- In this video I show some of what goes into partitioning out a bungalow with timber, stud work walls, including some setting out tips.
I'm a Brit in Canada and during these winter days of -36C have been watching a few of your videos. You are imparting years of knowledge! One of the best teaching carpentry channels! Thank you.
Hi Rich🖐I've got a buddy who moved to Calgary many years ago, and he often tells me of how cold it gets over there 🥶Appreciate you watching and thanks for your kind comments🫡Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I'm in Calgary and it does get cold! Thanks for these great teachings vids. I've learned a lot as a DIYer 👍
Everybody’s favourite carpenter 💪🏼🔨 glad you emphasised the importance of getting things square
Cheers Mad T🖐Seen out of square walls against kitchen tiling, and its not pretty😬Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Yep. I had an old book which had diagonals up to 48' brilliant for quick squaring
10:35 Del! TC! Are you just showing off!? 🤔 Those corners are SWEEET!!!
Hi Garviel🖐It's definitely better than having them out of square😮Cheers fella🤩
Ooo new Lazer 😁
It's a cracker John🤩Be lost without it for so many jobs🤓Cheers Del
Brilliant vid del
Thanks for watching Joe😎Cheers Del
Fantastic job Del, especially on your own mate 👍🏻
Appreciate your comment Ashley🤗and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Nice work. Amazing how much 2by4 goes into making partition walls.
You're quite right Sergio👍and, like you say, it takes a big pile of timber to build all these walls👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Top class work there Del, 😎 you earned your pay that day. Early start and late finish by the sounds of it. 👏👏👏
Definitely couldn't do that in one day Kevin😬even in my prime💪This was a 2 day'er 👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Great job as always my my mate really liked that thanks 😊
Appreciate your kind words Carl🤗And thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Great video Del, and lovely “dwanging”going on there 👍🏻😂
I was in the 'dwang' zone dlite 👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
That took me back a bit, beautifuly done Sir!
Appreciate your comment Michael🤗and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Great video Del , just always check that your lay out drawn is not a photo copy, can't scale off them , I run my sole plates through the door opes and cut out later gives you a chance to move things around if needed, good to see you thinking about other trades 👍☘️🇮🇪👏🤟
Hi John🖐Fortunately this drawing was to scale, but it also has a handy scale printed on it so you can check the scale is correct if the drawing has altered due to copying👊Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Del, as a joiner myself who does more or less the same work as you on a daily basis I salute you sir! Its great to see a man who takes pride in his work, keep the vids coming,
Jamie from Glasgow
I appreciate your comment Jamie🤗and its always really cool to know that fellow carpenters are watching, and were all, pretty much, doing it same ways👊Cheers Del
Nice one Del, another top job. 👍
Cheers Barry🤩Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Another excellent video, cheers.
Appreciate your comment bud🤗Cheers Del
absolutely brilliant method of working.. Respect Sir
Hi Errol🖐Hope you ate well bud, and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I started using a nog stick a few weeks ago after a fellow chippy said about it, definatly looks alot better on the end product when you look along them, all straight and not tipping. Great work as always really enjoy watching your videos always inspires me.
Thanks
That's a great comment bud, and I appreciate your kind words😎Cheers Del
Great video for setting out, plus everyone makes mistakes and you're not afraid to show it. You didn't show us how you plum the top plate of the stud wall...
Hi Phillip🖐Thanks for watching and I'll show how I plumbed my top plate in the next video😎Cheers Del
Good work as always. I use the same tune on my makita charger btw 👨👍
Hi Trevor🖐It's a very classy tune bud🤗Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
From someone who's never seen the internals of a house built, this was an interesting video. I hope you'll have more videos of your work on this bungalow in future. It will be interesting to see the walls, cupboards etc take shape.
Hi there🖐Its easy for us guys to forget that not everyone know what goes into building houses, so its cool for me that you found the video interesting🤩There will be more videos of this project as it progresses 👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks, Del. FYI, I started out watching. guitar building videos, then started watching wood workers as well, and now I'm also subscribed to three carpenters in three different parts of the world (one in the US, one in New Zealand, and you in the UK). I look forward to your videos as much as I do any of the other channels I'm subscribed to.
@@bhartissimo That's very kind🤩Thank you
Fantastic video.
Cheers Bob👍Appreciate your comment
Really rather good....👍😀Btw Del, Scott Brown has a really good vid showing how he adjusts the wall studs once in place to eliminate any bowing in or out. And Clever Clevett has a vid showing how he lines all the studs up to account for 'crowning' before he fixes them in. Both worth a watch for any DIYer.
Hi Matt🖐You couldn't see in this video, but I look down every stud and place all the 'bows' the same way in the wall. Ant really bad ones get put to one side and chopped up for door heads or noggins👊I'm pretty lucky as I use a timber supplier that only stocks decent, straight timber🤩Thanks for your comment bud, and for watching😎Cheers Del
Hiya Del super cool studwork video as it really helps setting out me studs , so please keep them coming GL&HB coming from Dulwich London England(✌PEACE✌)
Hey Gazza🖐I'll keep em coming if you keep watching👀 Have a good day 😊 Cheers
The boss is bk doing wot he does best top quilty 👍
Very kind words Dave🤗Thanks you bud
More than one way to skin a cat as they say......Have done many many many Internal /External (Timber Frame) studwork walls they are all similar one way or another have found the best way over the years to knock up the partitions like a frame and tack them up in position saves the up and down and saves many hours of work and wear and tear on the Body/Knees/Back over time. Once you have marked out the floor fix bottom rail and use level to plumb up each end. CLS (Canadian Lumber Stock) is pretty straight but still give them a quick look to make sure all going same way. use the not so straight ones for short Nogs or Dwangs. Can even add extra studs to catch plasterboard before you put frame up can make life easier. Like I have said more than one way to skin a cat as they say...Looking good Del.
Hi Dick🖐I know the method you describe is widely used, but there's several reasons I don't do like that on new builds, and the main one is the floor is just roughly laid, oversite concrete, and can be up and down by as much as an inch. If I was to make all the walls on the floor, they would have to be to the highest point of the floor, which would then mean that all the places where the floor was lower, wouldn't touch the ceiling, and would need packing at either the top or bottom before being fixed. Perhaps it's not that big a deal go round and do this, but I've never tried, and maybe I'm just set in my ways😆I appreciate your comment and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Yes you are correct the floor can be out an inch in places we would allow for that depending on size of room maybe cut half of room in one size and the other half larger size (depending how bad it can be of course). Have seen floors an inch out on first floor 4 bedroom houses (how that happen ask the bricklayer on brick/block houses). Have seen the ground floor 6 inches out al over the house that was in Horsham, South of England (a story for another day). As per your "Nom De Plume" ...."The Tall Carpenter" you can reach the top Rail for fixing no problem I am 6 feet odds myself. However you have to bend down as well at every stud to cheat/skew nail that is extra wear and tear on Back and Knees. I have set up a bench in the past using carpenters stools nailing studwork all at same level. .....It is like making a loft hatch for the attic ...I have seen guys jump up and down of their Carpenters stools about 20 to 30 times to make the hatch and add Hatch lining /Architraves /Stops/Facings one at a time.....Make it all on the deck /floor/bench with Hatch lining /Architraves /Stops/Facings/Plywood fitted jump up once and nail/screw once saves time and far better job at the end of day. We used to plasterboard ceilings before studwork went up many eons ago all part of our job at the time. With price of timber now wonder they do not go back to that method. Job is looking good Del.
@@dickdoc3337 You make some really good points about getting set up in a way that minimises the stress and wear on the body, whilst working, and too many of us, especially when we are younger, just let our bodies take the punishment. It's not until you get older, that you realise you've worn yourself out unnecessarily, mostly because you've been to lazy or in too much of a hurry, to get set up as you describe. Great comment👍
I only ever make frames up and stand them like you Dick Doc . Nip round with a length of cls and check the ceiling height everywhere. If it is within half an inch cut all the uprights to the tightest point. If it it really badly out cut a walls worth of uprights at a time. It used to be a NHBC reg (never seen it enforced and I think now removed from book) that stud walls shouldn't be tight to the ceiling to prevent the lightweight studding becoming loadbearing and transferring roof load down to 1st floor joists.
@@stevehallam6495 Hi Steve🖐We had a building inspector that specifically looked for gaps between the end of the studs and the underside of the top plate, as he said they see a lot walls where the studs have all been cut to the same size, and where the floor level changed, the top plate was just hammered up to the ceiling chord leaving a gap. I know most people do it the way you describe👍Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Nice work as always Del.
Thanks for watching Tim😎Cheers Del
Loving your videos. Relaxes me . Wish I had went into a different trade when I was younger. Train driver now though so turned out ok.
Hi Raymond🖐Like every job bud, carpentry has its highs and its lows, and no one every videos working of crap jobs with rubbish materials for ungrateful customers who end up not paying you🤔Thanks for your kind words and for watching😎Cheers Del
When will your world famous noggin stick be available to buy ? 🤣 Dan Cox will be so envious 🤣 neat, precise and crystal clear 👍🪚
I wont be selling the noggin stick direct Mark, but am planning on selling people the drawings with the dimensions on so they can make one themselves😆(I know what your thinking, where do I send my money🤣)Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter 🤣🤣🤣
Always a great video thanks Del never to long 😂looking forward to a sawhorse video
Hi John🖐Its always hard to know whether to do longer videos or shorter ones🤔Ultimately, I couldn't have made this video much shorter, and I prefer it to be in one part, rather than a few👊Thanks for watching and your great comment😎Cheers Del
Only just came across your channel, glad I did, you have some really great content, glad to be a subscriber 👍
Hi there🖐Thanks so much for your kind words, and I'm going over to check out your channel now👊Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter cheer del, I really appreciate that mate, keep up the good work 👍
Haha love it. Thanks Del. All the best
Did I get you name right Paul🤞
@@thetallcarpenter Yip Del spot on sir. It’s not very often people do get it correct so kudos for that 😎
@@paulmcgeoch2603 👊
Great video, thanks Del !!!!
Thanks for watching Michael🖐And I appreciate you leave a little comment on all my videos🤗Cheers Del
Great video. Very informative and well presented. Love your work ethic and consideration for other. We recently moved to a timber framed house with brickwork outer. The transfer of noise between rooms and floors is amazing. Shame they didn’t use noise insulation when they built the house. Can I ask a question regarding timber framed partition walls. We intend to remove one between the kitchen and dinning room to extend the kitchen. I think the wall is load bearing. How are these type of timber framed walls normally constructed. Will I need an RSG to carry the load?
Hi there🖐I wouldn't dare try and assume how you might support the wall/structure above any walls you might be thinking of removing without first seeing the job👍Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Great vid as always - followed your guidance to rebuild my own stud work upstairs (had paramount board originally) and couldn't be more pleased with the result! Mine took about 3 weeks to finish though; measure 861 times - cut once! Thanks for all you do - keep 'em coming!
That's great to hear Steve🤩and glad you were able to get the job done👊Thanks for your comment and for watching😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Any chance you do work in Grantham for fitting some Deanta doors?! I have 3 custom size doors that need fitting in addition to another half dozen standard ones!
@@Zel0978 Hi Steve. Its a little far for me, plus I'm booked up until August 2023😵
Nice work Del and great tip on the drill for the fixings. Love doing stud work myself
Hi there BS🖐Yeah, stud work just seems quite straight forward, and is always inside out of the weather👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Brilliant video, more detail the better😀
Hi there🖐Thanks for your comment🤗and for watching😎Cheers Del
Don't worry about the video length Del, that 30 minutes flew by :) Keep up the good work, as a Chippie in Aus it's always nice to see how things are done elsewhere. We say Noggins here, Kiwis say Dwangs like the Scots. Cheers, Will.
Really appreciate you watching Will🤗Always really cool for me to know that fellow carpenters are watching, and especially cool when you come from different parts of the world😎Cheers Del
Great video, well explained.
Cheers Barry🤗Thanks for watching
Never too long Del
Appreciate that Kevin🤗And thanks for watching it all😎Cheers Del
Great video, I have got to do this in my extension. I’m undertaking all the joinery, patternmaker by trade….
Hi Richard🖐I've no doubt you walls will be the straightest ever made😉Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Great video 👍
Thanks for watching Paddy🤗Have a good week bud👍
Defo knocking up frames is better on the body . Soul plate down then individual frames. Obv check stud sizes but even if floor is 50m out in places a few double wedges will keep it good all that walking back and forth to pick up 1 stud at a time is thing of past . Esp if working solo . Frames defo easier on body
I suppose its what you get used to, and I find bending down nailing studs to a top and bottom plate harder on my back than nailing each one individually👍As with a lot of carpentry jobs, there's usually more than one way to do it👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Top video great content
Appreciate your comment Mike🤗Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
This reminds me of doing Rondo stud walls. Light weight metal wall and ceiling systems. We mostly use on commercial jobs. Shoot the base track on laser up the head track. Twist in the studs and crimp in place. The title of your channel puts you at an advantage using this method. My channel would have to be short arse Carpenter. You imagine every stud you put in you have to get on a hop up or climb a ladder. You wouldn't need to go to step training at the gym. It just isn't viable especially in your 60's. As you are upgrading your laser collection consider another one. I do a lot of glazed tiling and use a square set out laser these days instead of the old 345. Now when laying out frames I grab that. In combination with my line laser I can project a perfect 90 off any wall. Good to see a man happy in his work though and in shorts. The weather must be looking up.
Hi Dave🖐Yes, being tall does have some advantages😎I absolutely need to get a 90 degree laser, as like you say, perfect for setting stud walls👊(and glazed tiles😆) Weather is pretty decent now🤔well, decent enough for shorts anyway😝Thanks for your great comment😎Cheers Del
Top work !
Thanks for your comment Mark🤗Cheers Del
Top job mate
Cheers David🤩Thanks for watching
Del, first things first, your videos can never be too long. Keep them coming. Great set out mate. A whole morning planning and fixing the floor plates and then flew through the top plates and studs.
Do you have any tips for stopping the studs jumping when you nail the top and bottom. I often risk the foot clamp on the opposite side and hop to Christ I get the right angle with the nail gun🤣🤣🙈
Hi Paul🖐I should have put more details in, but I was keen not to repeat things I've already done in other videos, plus, tge video was starting to get really long😵I Mark the studs by putting them against the head plate and putting pencil across them, I then leave the pencil line on when I cut them which makes them just long enough to stay in place as I nail them👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Cheers Del.
Great video Del
Cheers Robert🤗Thanks for watching
Something I like to do to strengthen openings and probably overkill is build the opening to accommodate an additional stud either side. Theirs then a stud supporting the door head and above the door head to the head plate. Also gives extra rigidity and more fixing for linings
Hi AV🖐Sounds like a great idea, and will defo make the opening stronger 💪 Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
That method's only used in the UK when it's a load bearing wall. Usually in full timber builds. Would be overkill in this build as the blocks are supporting the roof.
@@gavl.f.c6197 yeah yeah
Still something I like doing on my own bits, wasn’t suggesting he should do it
smashed it, super vid.
Appreciate your comment Mohammed🤗and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi Del, great video. I find it easier to fire the laser down the chalk line on the floor rather than the edge of the stud. A 360 degrees laser sets out floor and ceiling in one hit too.👍🏻
Hi there🖐You're right there bud, and I'd love a proper 360 degree laser🤗Thanks for your comment and for watching😎Cheers Del
🤘😎🤘Evening 👍👍
Hi Wayne🤗Thanks for watching bud
Great work. Your fisher fixings Del. Normally they are hammered in? Are these a normal thread. Nevertheless brilliant. I've done tons of studs over the years. We used to mark doorways and openings on the sole plates cut half way and this allowed for true runs this was sawn timber. Also we would set the corners back for a plaster board but nowadays this isn't done.. 👍
Hi there🖐The Fishers I use are always the screw in type rather than the hammer in ones👍Thanks for watching and your comment🤩Cheers
Del - When setting out and using the chalk line I find a piece of roofing batten, overcut between joist and floor, v cut the bottom of the batten, and a screw further up to take the end of my line. Wedge the batten between floor/ joist.
I like that Gavin👊Such a simple idea🤩Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Another great video Derek..really do appreciate the time and effort your putting in on these videos..great insight to setting out a new build..something I prob won't ever do but its always great to see the expert at work..do you have a model number for that bosch meter?
Hi Arthur🖐I appreciate your comment, as it really does take a lot of time and lost earnings to make these videos😮 The laser measure is the Bosch GLM 50c👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks for the info
As always top content
Very kind of you to say George🤗and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Nice work Del, nice to see a chippy checking for square on short studs, tilers will love you😁. I love the bosch distance measure, do you use it for stud heights or tape them, wondering if it's accurate 🤔. I was taught run the sole plates tru doors , but I do it like you now leave them out and follow chalk lines. Lot easier. I wish I had your height for nailing studs to heads🙄🤣🤣. Great video keep them coming 👍
Hi Paul🖐Being tall, I am able to put the stud against the top plate and mark it directly with a pencil, which is fast and accurate👊Thanks for watching bud and your comment😎Cheers Del
A washer around the concrete screw helps pull the timber down sometimes
Hi bud🖐Tapcon screws have a waisted shank and would be much better, but they are not that common round my way🤔Cheers Del
Good lad putting noggins in for the wall units 😉
Well Kieran, I'd only be cheating myself leaving them out, as I'll be fitting the kitchen😆Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Sadly - stud work was one of my most enjoyable things to do on the container jobs. Way more satisfying than a lot of the fiddly stuff afterwards.
Hi there🖐Like you, I also find studwork pretty enjoyable🤩Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Del, thanks for the great vid, can I ask what fixings you would use if there is underfloor heating pipes?
Hi Keith🖐I would be VERY careful drilling into the screed/floor if it had UFH in it😶I've just studded out a bungalow with UFH and was ASSURED by the builder/plumber that the screed was 80mm thick meaning I could drill about 50mm into it without hitting a pipe. I did this by setting the depth stop on my sds drill and using EXACTLY the right size plugs and screws. If I was in anyway unsure, I would just 'stick' the floor plates down with high performance adhesive or PU adhesive👍Cheers Del
Good video del do you not like using express nails on sole plate just asking wasnt saying your fixing method wasnt good just wondering thats all keep videos coming they are great pal😀
I think Express nails are awesome Mark, but I tend to stick to fixings I can remove, just in case, as does happen, I have to make an alteration, or get something wrong😬 You have definitely reminded me to get some more on my van though👊Thanks for watching and your comment😎Cheers Del
HI Del. I'm confused ?? Are the roof trusses spaced at 600 or 400s as i presumed . avid follower. Your the carpenter God incarnate....
Hi Shaun🖐The trusses are at 600mm centers and the studs are at 400mm👊I appreciate your kind words, and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Nice video Del! Liked your little stick to mark your noggin height and help shoot off into position!
How many days did it take you to Frame all this up?
Hi Eli🖐 It was 2 days work bud👊Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Great job. Is there any reason you don't use treated lumber for your bottom plate instead of adding the dpc to it? Is it a coast saving thing or is it just how its done over there? Also a great tip for holding a chalk line down on a concrete slab when working alone is to use a 1 inch drywall screw hammered into the slab and hooking the chalk line onto that. I find the 1 inch drywall screws work best for that because they are really hard and much sharper then masonry nails and require less fuss to tap in. Try it out sometime.
Hi there🖐Even if we used treated timber, the building inspector would STILL want to see a DPC under the bottom plate🤔I'm gonna check out the 1" drywall screw into the floor next time as I have a few on the van👊Thanks for your comment and for watching😎Cheers Del
Nice job m8 some prefer to assemble complete section on ground then lift in...
Thanks 4 sharing keep up the good work
Y dnt u use a labourer
Hi Sadaqat🖐I actually prefer to cut and fit tge studs individually, as making the panels on the floor is a lot of bending down/kneeling😬(my poor old knees are worn out😵) Thanks for watching bud and have a nice weekend 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter perfect ...makes sense different strokes for different folks lol
Take care all the best m8
Del, not sure if I missed it in the video but how do you make sure the header is bang on straight above the floor plate with this method? Good work mate 👌🏻
Hi Matt🖐Yes, I didn't make it clear in this video😬 Well, I did, but I cut the bit of video of me explaining it, and put it in a short video featuring the laser detector I use to help line up my laser with the bottom plate which throws a line up onto the truss bottom chords for me to fix my head plate on👍I guess I was a little worried that I was repeating, in this video, details that are already in previous videos🤔Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter cheers for the info Del, got a couple of vids to catch up on yet will watch it though and see the detail!!
hi Dell great work mate, not sure if you do it already but at the ends of my studs where it meets another atud wall square to it I leave a 15mm gap so the plasterboard can slide through !
Hi Brit🖐That's amazing that you that bud, as that's exactly what I used to do🤯 I stopped doing it as the tackers preferred to work out from the internal corners😵💫Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter nice 1 Del keep up the great content !!!
Ok Del, ever tried running the plates all the way through then marking and cutting out the openings after fixing.
That's how I do it, you know your wall is straight
Only when I was training Chris👍I've since got into the habit of leaving the doorways out, maybe to save my knees and my hand saws😬I know loads of guys do it that way👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Nice as always learnt a few nice tips. Can i just why the studs are not built after UFH and screed?
Hi Bud🖐Its mostly down to knowing where the rooms are so they can be set out for each under floor heating zone, but also, (not in this particular case), some building control officers don't like the partitioning built on top of a screed that is laid on top of insulation🤔Thanks for watching and your comment😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter fair comment, so what do you do at the bottom, say its 150mm insulation and screed, do you make that up with extra timber?
@@Bud-vd2xd Yes Bud👍 I would get 3m studs in this case, and then put a row of noggins in just above the finished floor level to take the bottom of the plasterboard. I have been asked by builders in the past to put down a quadrupole floor plate, to make up for the insulation and screed, because they didn't want to get me 3m studs😮 It was ridiculous and the shrinkage alone in all those floor plates would have caused all kinds of cracking🤯Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter you’re a legend Del, cheers
Great work again del! Precise to the point. I always learned that you could hammer in those fischer plugs full, as we call them nailing plugs but then not in english of course but in dutch. Or are these 10 mil different types? Always inspired by your enthousiasm mate!
Hi Tom🖐They do a hammer in fixing and a screw in one bud👊Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter great to know, I always hate removing those nailplugs because of the crappy philips heads but enjoyed hammering them in (mainly when I still was an electrician (or sparky in your world?)). have a great week !
I would just like to say I’m short and I would need a hop up for most of that work🤣
Being tall does come in handy for some things bud🤩Thanks for your comment and for watching😎Cheers Del
I don’t need knee pads because I’m down there already
@@3sons587 That's when being tall is not so great😩
Referring to 2x4's [which are at best 1.5"x3.5" as 'timber,' is a bit of a stretch. 'Sticks' are more like it.
Timbers are not dimensional lumber bought from Home Depot's or Lowes. Timber is more substantial
cuts or logs used in framing, as can be found in old barns from the 19th or early 20th century, where
joinery was a craft. Timber structures are solid buildings, stick built is another species. A hurricane
knows the difference. My prejudice if you will.
We call them 4x2s in the same we call 1.2mx2.4m plasterboard 8x4s 🤔Cheers Del
Another problem with concrete screws is if the holes not in the exact position you want you can’t tap the timber one way or another then tighten it up like you can with a plug
Really good point Big Smith👊like you say, you've got a tiny bit of wiggle room with a plug and screw😵Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
great work del, how long did that take, 2 days?
Yes Brian, this would normally be 2 days, but I did have to go into a few hours of a third day due to 'customer interactions'😆Cheers Del
Hi! What's the reasoning behind putting the roof trusses on before raising the internal walls? Wouldn't it be easier to nail them on the ground and stand them up?
Hi Jens🖐 The concrete floor is just rough cast, and not particularly level/flat, so I find it easier to cut each stud individually before fitting👍Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
brilliant work!!! what is the laser measuring device you are using please
Hi Peter🖐 It's the Bosch GLM 50c 👍I've done a couple of videos on it now, ands a great little tool🤩Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter many thanks, will have to go back and look at the other videos!! Hope all is well and hope you have a great weekend, take care
@@peterdnreynolds777 All is well my end Peter, and I also hope you have a nice weekend😎Cheers Del
👍👍👍
Thanks for watching Pete🤩
i have a 25cm hss rect with plates weld on both ends as a 3th hand for the chalkline
I like the sound of that bud💪Very creative😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter i know =) can pull as hard as you want it wont tip over before line snaps
@@HogeN1337 That's awesome and I've got a welder🤔👊
@@thetallcarpenter can send a pic on insta when i get around to it
@@HogeN1337 Please do bud be cool to see it👍
Noggins,, we call them bridgers in Belfast 😂
That's cool Stephen🤩I'll be calling them that in my next video👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter 😂😂👌👍
Hi, suppose the walls were not full height and so you didn't have any solid ceiling to fix the stud head plate to, how would you restrain the head of the studs?
Hi there🖐The head plate is either fixed directly to the roof trusses ceiling chord, or additional noggins that I fit in between them👍
@@thetallcarpenter ok thanks!
Do you not use a ppn nailer Del those looked like hand chapped Bat nails in the truss clips.
No such luxuries as a PPN for fixing the truss clips Dez 😬We still use old school finger smashers😵Thanks for watching bud
Hate them finger smashers I used to use my foot rule to hold them.
i'd need a super long pencil to mark the stud lengths like that =]
Hi Tom🖐Being tall has its advantages, one of which is have an 8 foot reach😝 I'm sure someone must make foot long pencils😆Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
I know there has to be some limt Derek but when setting out is it always off the brick or block work rather than the estimated finish?, cheers.
Great question Alan🤗This plan is, I think, a structural plan, so I just measure straight from it onto the building. I have done jobs before, where the plan dimensions are more critical, and in these cases, I'll find out the finished wall make up, and allow exactly for it👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Excelente video muy bonito trabajo 👏 👍 🧱🧱💯💯👊👊🏠🏠
Thanks for watching Vianka 🤩
This is how I built my house.
Hi Errol🖐It's good to do it properly bud👊Cheers Del
How do you price your work?
Do you do a price or day work?
I only work on an hourly rate Mark👍Cheers Del
Стропильная система, как паутина, всё оплетено - большой пролЁт держит ~12метром?
СерьЁзная работа✊Thank you
Hi there🖐Yes, these trusses will support a concrete tiled roof with a 12 meter span👍Cheers Del
Wondering if you’d travel to Bournemouth to build my timber garage. I watched your playlist last year of the garage you built. I think I’m going to have similar problems with levelling the structure as the moron who poured my slab made a right mess. What areas do you cover??
Hi there🖐I only cover a small area of North Cambs, so you are a tad to far for me😬Appreciate you watching my videos😎Cheers Del
What lengths of timber would be a good use of materials. My garage will be 6m x 7m and 2.4m to the eaves. I read somewhere that 14 lengths per 10 foot but it didn’t specifically say the length. I want to avoid wastage as timber is costly at the moment. 60 x 3m or 3.6m or longer 🤷🏽♂️
You should start bricklaying, all you need is a trowel...
Bricklaying is to technical for me LNK🤯Cheers Del
Hi I'm about to build a stud wall in my house 4m long, how do you make sure the chalk line/laser line is 100% straight? So if I was to build a wall of it everything would be square and straight.
Hi Lewis🖐Just keep the chalk line pulled nice and tight and it will always mark a straight line👍Use a square like the one in the video or do the '345' trick off the straight line to keep and walls coming off it at perfect 90°👊Cheers Del
Thank you 👍
Do you mark the sole plate and your top plate then go to the marks? Just wondering what you would do if the first stud against the wall is out of plumb then all your marks are out that same amount.
Also, do you measure each stud in case floor/joists/trusses are out of level
Hi Dan🖐I have gone into detail in other videos, but I do measure each stud individually to accommodate a out of level floor, and I mark the bottom plate at 400mm centre's on the bottom plate, and plumb up the first one from the external wall to the top plate, and then mark 400's from that, so it doesn't matter in the block wall is out of plumb👊Cheers Del
Mark your first stud 390 instead of 400 or 590 if your using 600 centres allowing for 10mm if the blockwork is out slightly, make sure your first stud is bang on level then mark the rest of that first stud.
Mark your stud on your headplate on the marks then cut 2mm above the Mark giving you a snug fit so it doesn't move around as your trying to nail it.
Great video BTW!
@@bmxerboynathan Hi Nathan🖐We are on the same wavelength, and I actually mark my floor plate out at 430, 830,1230,1630 etc. The timber is 38mm thick so it leaves the first stud 10mm further away from the wall to allow it to be out of plumb, which is not too much as the dot and dab plasterboard is about 30mm thick👍 I then work away from the external wall pulling my studs to the line which is facing me, and then nail it up. Being tall, I am able to place the stud against the top plate and mark it with my pencil, and as you suggest, I just leave the line showing when I make the cut, and the studs holds in a treat as you nail it💪 Thanks for your comment bud
Hiya del, how high should the noggins be? Does it depend how tall the wall is or are they there for the plasterboards?
Hi Paul🖐We fit out plasteboard vertically, so noggin position isn't critical as long as its somewhere near the middle👊I keep my noggins no higher than 1100mm from finished floor, as they wont then get in the way of any of the light switches that should be 1200mm to their top edge👍Cheers Del
Ahhh good to know, cheers.
How long would you expect a job like that to take start to finish?
2 days for this Billy👍 ( I had to go into a 3rd day, but only due to 'customer interactions'😆) Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter thanks for the reply.
Looking forward to more of your videos
👍, do you work on a price
I never work on price Neil, despite the opportunity it gives you to earn more money than on day work. I know my customers/builders are getting their jobs done cheap, but its how I prefer it👊Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Where is the big square from?
Hi Adam🖐I think it was just a cheapy from Toolstation 👍
Wondering if you’ve checked level on your new red 12v laser? I’ve had 2 now and both have been 4mm off checking about 1m in from each end of the beam on the level line, whereas my old 3year old 20 odd thousand mile travelled dw088k is spot bollock on.
Hi Glen🖐Funny you should say that, as I HAVE actually checked it for level, AND against my old faithful DW088😎Reason being, my mate bought one and, like you found, it was out from the factory😬Great comment and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
What do ya think of the tracer pencils
I tried one Aaron, and the little sharpener went blunt before I'd even put one lead though it😬'I'm out' when it comes to those type of pencils😮
@@thetallcarpenter a just seen them on ya belt yer a don’t use the sharpener a just use ma knife the lead snapped befor it got sharp 😂 I upgraded the lead as well coz was to soft
@@aaronbell8527 I keep it my tool bely Aaron, as it was expensive, and I cant bear to sling it in the back of the van😮
8mm clearance hole through the stud then your concrete screw will pull tight, no bother
Yeah, definitely needs a bit of clearance in the timber Paige👍Cheers Del
Now referring to my wife as the Old Dwang.
That's a sure fire way to have your 'special fun time' reduced James😆