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Build a small stud wall with doorway opening.
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- Опубликовано: 23 ноя 2020
- In this video I go through the process of constructing a small stud wall for an ensuite bathroom. Most of the video is shot in real time with text explanations as it goes along.
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Don't know if you'll see this, but I just wanted to say thanks. We ran out of money during a bare wall restoration and I'm now learning as I go. Between brexit and covid, labour and materials jumped so much that we literally had a stone walled shell with a new roof and no finances in place to get it finished. 18 months later, we've moved 350 miles and I'm building piecemeal as money allows. The skill and knowledge you've shared over your time on youtube have helped immensely, between you and Robin Clevett I've managed to pick up enough general carpentry to lay out, frame and build, fit linings and hang doors. Basic things to you, but having the ability to reference a trusted source is immeasurably comforting to someone who is having to sail uncharted waters by necessity. Enough waffle, please just know that your work is much appreciated 😊
Hi there🖐I'm so happy to read your great comment, and it's awesome that you have been able, with the help of my videos and others, to get on with your own job👍All the best🤞Del
As usual, loaded with plenty of tips and tricks of the trade. Once again, many thanks for taking the time to document your work. Cheers
My pleasure Neil🤩and thanks for watching👍
Pure Gold from you
Your too kind🤩Cheers Del
That was amazing to watch. Picked up so many tricks. Thank you - greatly appreciated
Hi John🖐Thanks for your comment, and I've got other studwork videos on my channel you might find interesting🤔Cheers Del
love the noggin stick idea
Keeps em nice and neat Garviel, and makes it easy to fit them 👊 Cheers bud 😎
Great little trick cutting a small notch in the top plate to hold the tape I had never seen that done before, thank you for sharing
Hi Stephen. I'm actually just about to do a stand alone video on that tip.🤩 Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍 Cheers.
Brilliant chippy . Old school .
I hope your lads following in your footsteps . A proper trade . Not going into IT or something 🙈
@@Tez73 Cheers Terry.👊
@@Tez73 I'm not sure how to answer that comment Terry.😵 Being a teenager, he wants to be a RUclipsr,🤪😣, so there is irony in your question!!!!!. (he's a clever lad and would make an excellent tradesman).🤩 Thanks for your comment.👍
I like your videos, I have been to trade school for carpentry and etc, yet I learn so much watching you on youtube and taking notes haha.... what I also like that you do not selling anything unlike other channels. And I also feel the other channels are not really helping people but wanting to sell there friends products to make money as well and do not give as many tips as compared with you do. This is why I think you are very good, keep up the good work :)
Hi there. It's great to read your comment, as one of the big reasons for me filming my work is to try and help people might benefit from me sharing some of the knowledge I have gained as a carpenter over the last 35 years. I appreciate you watching and your comment 😎
Thanks for all the videos
It's my pleasure D👍Thanks for watching them 😀 Cheers Del
Great video, I must spend half my life with a pencil hanging out of my mouth too 🤣
Hi there. Blimey, I must not even realise I'm doing it.🤪 I've never been a, 'pencil behind the ear', guy, mostly because my lugs aren't big enough to hold one.🙉 Cheers
Like the notching trick. Nice thin accurate line to measure from.
It would be interesting to see what nails you go for on certain jobs and choice of gun etc. Probably sounds obvious to others.
Hi John. I find a little notch super fast to cut in and, as you say, super accurate.👍 Thanks for your suggestion about nails/guns etc. I've got another identical job to stud out next week, so will, perhaps, do a little video on that.😎Thanks for your comment.
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks for the reply, yes I shall be trying the notch technique. I’m only a hobbyist really but I like to build my own things. I have paslode first and second fix, there always seems to be a lot of talk about how far each gun can be pushed. I was trying to figure out if you were using an im65a on that work or you were using a 360?
@@BurnedOutGarage Hi John. The nail gun I use for 1st fix tasks like studwork and roofing, (as in this video), is the IM350. I'm a real Paslode guy, and think, that with regular maintenance, they are fantastic tools.😎Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter Ah I should have spotted it 😂 I have a im350 too an old one. Yes great tool, I used to hire a 360 all the time as I mainly work with steel (fabricator) I didn’t want to buy one for the odd bit of frame made out of timber. So not an everyday tool for me. The time it saves me when I just want to knock something up permanent or temporary it’s paid for it’s self many times over. Have been tempted by the new Milwaukee but I’ll stick with the paslode for now.
@@BurnedOutGarage Hi John. As I said, I rate Paslode tools. If you have to use these 1st fix nail guns for extended periods, they are punishing on your wrists and forearms due to their weight.🤪 Power tools are designed to make your jobs easier and quicker, and pound for pound, the nail gun is the number one at this.😎Cheers.
Being on the block work does the timber need any sort of protection from the wall absorbing moistyre/water from outside and rotting the timber attached to it? Or causing mould on the plasterboard once finished?
Hi there🖐There will be no moisture in the internal block skin due to a damp proof course at the bottom, and a cavity between this and the outside wall👍Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
How much wider is the door opening compared to the door lining to be fitted- do you leave any clearance for packing on either side of the jambs, and is this detail shown on the drawings? Keep up the great videos!
Hi Tom. I usually make the studwork opening 10mm bigger that the lining. This leaves a bit of tolerance for fitting which I do by inserting timber folding wedges in pairs, (4 pairs each leg), until the legs are plumb and it line with the wall.(and fix)😎 The drawings are usually pretty sparse with opening sizes, (sometimes we get a proper door schedule to go from), and we just go with whatever building control dictates. (usually 2'9" on habitable rooms)👊Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍
@@thetallcarpenter Is there set heights to fix the 4 pairs of wedges when fitting casings to avoid hinge and keeps etc.
Really helpful (doing this on the weekend!) Jus wondering how the 3x2 ( 38 X 63) holds up when hanging a door on the studwork, is there much difference in wobble compared to 2x4's? Or perhaps 38 X 63 with sheathing ? Cheers!
Hi RC. The 3x2 cls is fine for studwork, and although, obviously, not as stiff as 4x2 cls, it is still plenty strong enough for door linings and doors to be fixed to👍 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter really appreciate the response. Also means my bathroom just got 1 inch wider haha! Means I can eat more at Christmas
You joke RC. The reason this builder uses 3x2 is so the rooms are all a tiny bit bigger🤪 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter The difference between a 72 cm WC and a 80+ WC (width) is immense. Made a mockup to simulate it and couldn't turn around without bonking something. Fast forward a few days and i'm now taking down an entire masonry wall in order to widen the downstairs WC!
@@RollCorruption 😵😣👍
is this rough sawn timber or smooth planed?
Hi there🖐This smooth all round, CLS, type timber👍Cheers.
Are you not a fan of those spax concrete screws?
Hi Ian. Basically, no, I'm not. I find that, if there is any gap between the timber and the concrete, these fully threaded screws hold the gap and don't close it. I'm trying some Tapcons from Amazon on the next job, as they are concrete screws but with a waisted shank, so should close any gaps up when tightened. Of course I could just be using them wrong!!!.I would 😵 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter yeah know what you mean. Be interested to see them tapcons when you use them. The main thing I don't like about them is the head hasn't got enough size vs the shank so not much timber to pull on
@@ianthompson9058 That's right mate.👍
What tolerance do you work to for level, can you be 8mm out in 2400?
Hi Charlie. I would like to get my studs a bit closer than 8mm to upright. If you have a board joining on a 38mm stud which is 8mm out of plumb, one board will have 27mm to fix to, but the other board will only have 11mm of bearing. You can still fix it but the screws will be vey close to the edge of the board. Thanks for watching😎
@@thetallcarpenter sorry I meant the wall being plumb not level if that makes sense would you tolerate it being 8mm out of plumb?
@@charlierodgers2776 I get you Charlie🤪 I guess it would be difficult to notice that amount out, but could cause issues if it were a kitchen wall for instance.😎 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter can I ask also another opinion on your perspective on tolerances, if you were 2nd fixing and doing oak architrave and skirting what tolerance would you allow for your mitres would something like 0.1mm gap in the mitres be acceptable to you? Or would you only tolerate a perfect joint? Also if the lining is out of square sometime adjusting the margin around the architrave by 2mm to make the mitre better, would you consider this as acceptable for example 10mm margin at top and 8mm at bottom ? Thanks
@@charlierodgers2776 Hi Charlie. A lot is dependant on the customer you are working for. Some customers would never notice if the margins on the architraves were a couple of mm different top to bottom. BUT, if you work for people who expect top notch work, (like I do), then this kind of tolerance might not be acceptable. When it comes to mitres on oak trims, skirtings and architraves, they really need to be treated with a more joinery type tolerance, ie, pretty spot on as any coatings will not cover, even the slightest gaps. An added complication here could, however be, that you are using a lower grade oak which may shrink and open up, even after you've toiled to make really tight joints.👍
What's the laser you use? Thanks Simon
Hi Simon. Its a very early DeWalt DW087 (now the DW088). It's been a great tool since I bought it in 2007 but I have now replaced it with a similar DeWalt level that uses a rechargeable battery😎 Cheers.
How wide do you make the door opening?
Hi there🖐When using standard, softwood door linings, I make the stud work opening 65mm wider than the door👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Hi mate, I am assuming nailing must be better than screwing. Any reason?
@paul Boro Hi Paul🖐Nails are cheaper and faster and are not prone to snapping👍Cheers Del
NOOICE!
🤩👍
What do you think about the laser level
Absolutely brilliant Aaron👊and I couldn't get by without one now👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I need one every one saying them green ones are good off Amazon can’t mind the name of them
@@aaronbell8527 Huepar I think they are called👍
Voice up music down
Hi Les🖐I'd like to think the production of my videos has improved since this very early one🤞Thanks watching😎Cheers Del
Great vid!
Cheers James🤩Thanks for watching 😎