I'll probably never attempt repairing any frame rails but I enjoy watching and learning how it is done, especially when it is done by someone who is very competent and is interested in doing a top quality job. This was very quick, to the point and insightful.
Thanks, there are a lot of people out there straightening things like this and although it might look good in the end, it is not structurally sound anymore. In the next accident it will crumple up with much less force. The scary part is when I see people heating new frames to straighten them. That is a big no no! I have seen firsthand just how weak they become. I am just trying to show people the proper methods. Thanks for watching!
I like how you had 2 cameras setup instead of moving one all over the place,great explanations on every step. I feel that it was very professional. You nailed it, great tutorial
I have never rebuilt a wrecked car, but i want to give it a try and see if it would be something I can do. I have watched hundreds of rebuild videos on RUclips and most do them in time lapse. I have been a subscriber of your channel for about 3 years now and doing this video was the kind of ones I look for so I can get an in-depth look at what's involved. So I personally would like to see more in real time. Also thank you for taking the time to do these videos and showing some of use no how's what's involved.
I appreciate the narrative. Seeing and hearing what you're doing in real time really gives insight into how you accomplish these repairs, how much work you put into them, and if it's something that I would want to dare try. You're helping us average Joes, man. Thank you! (Edit: don't stop making the time lapse videos though, they're unique and strangely addictive.)
I was an average joe at one time as well. We all have to start somewhere. I just kept challenging myself and here we are, nothing scares me now. I like watching time lapses of just about anything so I understand. It is how my channel started and will always be part of it. The time lapse camera was rolling the the whole time so there will be one of this job after the tutorials. That way I can put links in the time lapse to direct viewers to real time videos if they want more info on a specific procedure. Thank you for your support!
I'm from Peru, and lately labour costs (which used to be dirt-cheap) have gone up a lot, and I was asking some shops why weren't they investing in state of the art frame machines and the answer was "if a car is so messed up that needs expensive equipment to messure and pull, it's probabbly going to be totaled anyways, so why bother". I really like this tutorial a lot, please keep them coming.
Manufacturers don't want anything to be repairable. They want to keep selling more cars. They make the parts replaceable but the labor to replace them is enough to make a 2 year old car not worth the repair. Frame racks are becoming less useful if they will not let you straighten anything anymore. Thanks for watching, more are on the way.
In the year 2022 with supply issues many people are holding on to the write offs rather then crushing them for a few hundred dollars, if I pull the engine and transmission that's worth 4 grand used 🤷♂️ body work that would usually be 200 dollars is minimum 1000 dollars now unless, you know someone. I'm considering getting into the salvage business 🤔.
@@vehcor that's a good reason to keep your old workhorse frame machine and not invest in a state of the art machine with laser and GPS guidance machine that will be out dated in six months if you don't buy the new programs😂. Hey it got you here this far ,, keep her, kinda like an old wife. LMAO
I'm in the U. S. Where the democrates cheeted the idiot into office and nobody did anything about it...the price of everything here has gone way up .something's are double ... It's the self proclaimed elite trying to destroy the eno
thank god, refreshing to see someone on youtube that actually knows what the hell they are doing, as a bodyman myself, some of the stuff i see actually scares the hell out of me.
Thanks, I agree. It is sad that some of the more popular channels are doing the scary work and people don't know the difference. Thanks for the support!
I like how you kept it real and said how the do it yourself we could do the same thing and the truth about manufacturer don't want us to work fix our own cars they want more money to replace it. Very informative thank you
Thank you for your honesty and integrity. Im a shadetree hobbyist and have repaired a few "totalled" cars using a winch, come along, slide hammer, 4 ton porta power another car as an anchor and a great old willow tree - saved a bunch of money, learned a fun skill and had an enjoyable time in the process! Keep up the great videos and in-depth explanation and be sure to tip the Afternoon crew well, ha ha. Merry Christmas from Upstate Ny
I enjoy watching your videos showing how the work is done. I also appreciate you doing things the right way and replacing the parts. You are doing things with right way.
Another good video, it's cool that you are showing people what goes into the repair process. Ideally you want to give it a yank before replacing parts anyways. It tends to help the new parts line up better.
You are spot on! Even if it doesn't look like it, sometimes adjacent panels can be moved slightly and it sucks to find out when you have a rail assembly in your hand that just doesn't want to go to its home. Thanks for watching!
Agreed 100% just because it isn't obvious doesn't mean its straight!!!, always verify the straightness of the surrounding areas before mock up and reassembling!!!!!
An excellent how it's done video. I have heard of "pulling it". I now have a much better idea of what is involved. Thanks. Looking forward to the series. I would have no worries buying a vehicle you've repaired. No cut corners. Hard to find these days.
Thanks, I'm glad I could pull of this teaching thing. With all of the "how much did you make" and "what does it cost" comments and emails I get it is no wonder good work is hard to find. Everyone is focused on money first and the work last. I could make a lot more cutting corners in the short run but it hurts you in the long run. Not to mention I just wouldn't feel right about doing something that wasn't right. I will have a video to explain that as well. Thanks for watching!
I enjoy your videos, you're about the best instructor I've seen so far. Glad that you mentioned that specialty tools are not needed if you have ingenuity. Sometimes you have to make the tool to get the job done.
Thanks, I'm glad I could pull it off. lol Sometimes the homemade or repurposed tools are better than the "right" tool. People always think of you don't have the fancy tools it cannot be done right but they are wrong. Thanks for watching.
I’ve watched dozens and dozens of videos on this subject and read myriad articles and papers form the manufacturers and comprehensive studies on the metallurgy going on here. Truly incredible what they are doing today with ultra high strength steel. I really dug in when I went to level a dimple on the frame rail of my daughter’s Magnum. I’m a pretty big guy, and known to “make” things submit to my will, strength, and most of all, thorough understanding of leverage and physics. I used to only drive cars made before 1972, and have plenty of experience straightening out “mistakes”. My best friend totaled my 1968 Country Squire, and although he hit a tree at only 35ish MPH, the damage was astonishing, with the right headlight pushed back, massive steel bumper folded in, fender folded in, the works. I took a 28oz Estwing framing hammer and out of anger and curiosity to see what it took to bend that steel, did an overhand swing on a smooth section of that fender. On a modern car that hammer would go through that sheet metal. On this fender, it barely left the waffle pattern of the fresh hammer. Anyway, I used a hand sledge to massage that slight wrinkle, maybe 3/8” tall, where the steel is layered/laminated, and bent just like the vehicle in your video, it made the inner layer wrinkle back towards the point of impact. I don’t know the gauge, but that layer was maybe 1/8” thick. Annnnnnd. Nothing. It was near the brand new strut I had installed, as I replaced the entire front end suspension parts. But I didn’t want to scratch it. So to hit that point from afar I used a tire spoon, about three feet long, round butt end, flat spoon on the end against the rail. I wailed on that thing for three hours. My wife told me the “CHING” got ALMOST therapeutic for HER! Easily over a thousand very hard hit, leaving the end of the spoon mushroomed over. It left marks in the steel, but did not bend it. So I applied some MAP gas torch to it until it got a cherry glow in that area and that helped. That just blew my mind. That’s what led me to learn about the steel used, and found out that section used DP 590, dual phase, two different types bonded together, and the metallurgy used to create each type is incredible. They have figured out how to make relatively light weight steel also ultra strong, hence the name. I have a tow car garage with a support post in the middle. I used that, big ass eyebolts into the far wall, and some floor anchors to keep the car from moving towards the drivers side, all anchored just act of the cowl, under the car and on the pinch welds I used some beam clamps which worked great. On the impact side to pull the apron and rail, I used a two ton electric winch with a pulley to get close to four tons, but not really, plus a come-along, plus two large 2” wide ratchet straps, all progressively attached from behind the strut halfway to the cowl, then at the strut below on the rail, and then two more points along the rail to the bumper mount, of course the bumper was removed, and the headlight support, which is the main cross support framing the top of the radiator, headlights, and binds the fenders together, with the radiator support below that. It was bent slightly annd I fixed that in five minutes. In fact, I really didn’t think the frame was bent, initall, that’s how subtle it was. The hood was saved and the drivers door, with all the impact being at the knuckle and strut zone. The knuckle was bent over and pinched the tire. The upper A arm broke, as well as tie rod end. That headlight got cracked, but almost spared. So it was concentrated. So I rebuilt the front end, all good, easy, took maybe 6-8 hours, doing both sides since she had already been prepping for a front end upgrade before the accident, she already had the parts even before insurance did their thing. On that note, they wanted to total it, of course, but it’s was in the ragged edge. She loves the car which is not replaceable, kinda, and the damage honestly didn’t look too bad. We ordered a new painted fender and bumper cover, easy bolt ons. Surprisingly, the fender bolted right up with perfect gap to the door, and the mount holes on the apron lined up perfectly too. Hmmm. Still not sure why. Cause the hood on these cars has no adjustment, and did show a gap on the passenger side and a little overlap on the drivers new fender. And when I loosened the bumper and the cross support, the drivers side rail snapped back about 3/4”. Everything seemed to line up, except the hood. But I was wrong. BOTH fenders/aprons were pushed to the passenger side about 1”. And hence this story and why I’m watching these videos. I have pulled, and pulled some more, and I can see everything moving, A LOT! Easily more than the 1” needed. But when I release the tension it always goes back to about 1”2 shy of where it should be now. I even had plumb bobs up and down the chassis, and the shop manual has spec measurements in it, so I made a grid under the car to keep track. The grid is worthless if the car moves at ALL, and it always does. Hence your frame rack. I know I can get this right. Question is, how do YOU measure the big picture to make sure everything is where it should be. These pints are so far apart and measuring is so difficult, I even made a tram gauge, but even then, 1/8” here and there is 1/4”, and then combine that with imperfections in measuring a diagonal from one corner to the other, it will never be precise enough to be right. I’ve measured on this car maybe 20+ times. But I am determined. This is my daughter’s baby, and of course I got one new in 2006, and she’s always loved my hot rod wagon, mine is black, she bought a nice cherry one in Inferno Red, Flowmasters, and of course both are RT Hemi cars, cause, why breathe otherwise? I’ve even used my car for reference. Some parts are dead on. But how do you know that your reference points are even correct. At one point I got a perfect isosceles triangle from tow rear corner points to the center front of the engine cradle and was convinced it was square. Went to do toe-in, with a laser down the side of the car referenced off the rear rotors, and even accounting for their own toe-in, and got the same thing as the hood. One inch, on the nose, was how much the drivers side rotor was closer to the rail than the passenger side was. Ugh! It almost like I bend it, maybe three or five inches last where it should be, release the tension, take measurements, and then over several hours or days it returns to near where it started. I have moved it, and of course the whole rail and apron didn’t move proportionally, but it’s still off by about 1/2” in some places to 3/4” in others and it turned out that the passenger side apron was harder to pull than the drivers side. Maybe stress hardening? Help. Just as a point of reference in a pull just like you did in the video, how far PAST the point of being square did you need to pull to leave it correct? I feel like I’m going to rip something apart if I keep pulling so hard. Of course I’ve had bungee cords and heavy blankets strategically placed to prevent any failures from becoming more damaging than needed. What is normal. Also, the papers said that on DP590, heat was not a good idea, but very localized and short term heat could be used to relived shallow wrinkles. Otherwise, it can make the steel more brittle, or more soft, depending on lots of factors.
My 99 Tahoe is at the shop having the frame straightened right now, I landed on your video because I was curious to understand how it's done. Thank you for sharing! I can only hope mine is done right.
Nice to see someone fix a vehicle the right way. The rebuilders I worked for were cheap and almost never replaced parts like you did. They would have me straighten those rails and apron because that's "good enough"! I hate that statement!!
I’m a brake operator and whenever we bend something you’ve always gotta over bend it a real little bit because steel has memory and we call it spring back, exactly what you just said, cheers.
Over bending is another method they used to use. They no longer recommend it for cars because one person's idea of enough is not the same as another. It does work just as well though. Thanks for watching.
Dude I’ve got to say I’ve watched other videos, and always come back here. You do a great job at explaining what you’re doing and approaching it from a beginners view props 👍.
both ways you did this was done very well i have been doing this kind of work for well over 30 years and i think you did a tremendous job. I cant decide which way was better so i would try to incorporate both methods. you did a great job my complements to the chef
Thanks, I think the best would be live video with the animation as I explain it. My video editing skills are still a work in progress so I'll keep practicing and maybe I'll get there. Thanks for the support!
Just stumbled across you looking up salvage repair. I'm mustering up the courage to buy and rebuild a salvage truck. Your videos definitely make it less donating. Thanks for all the great content keep them coming and good luck on the siverado! Can't wait to see that one done 👍
Start small, the last thing you want to do is get in too deep on your first build. Even the simple jobs have challenges so you don't want to be overwhelmed. I'm going to get back to these tutorials as soon as the Silverado is done. Good luck on your build if you jump in! Thanks for the support!
Right On Point!! People Are Scared; as a Shop may not know if Vehicle is for End User or ReSale in which Potential Liabilities and Approaches are Best and Today Many People Are Afraid of Actual Work, as They Just Want To "Flip" It. In My Case; My Vehicle Was Wrecked as Last Owner Neglected The Brakes For Whatever Reason. Minor Frame Damage was Easily Fixable but a 2wd Jeep Isn't Worth Much, especially in New England With All That SNOW! It Was Worth It as I am the End User and I'm Gonna Run It to the End while Taking Care of it Of course...
Some people just don't know that you cannot use the old methods on everything. Once upon a time, sectioning those rails would have been acceptable but not with the HSS. Good luck with the Jeep.
This is the first time I've seen one of your tutorials. I thought it was pretty good. All of it. I'LL have to look at and see if you have any on the repair of my 2008 Outback and 2006 Forester.😊
It gets hit, it will bend. Really doesn't matter as long as it's in alignment and crinkles worked out. Crumple zones are there to bend. It's a folk lore to replace every bent piece
Thanks. I'm not the smiling type. Don't get me wrong, I am a very happy person. I just don't smile much. Thanks for watching. I will get back to the tutorials soon.
Hi Vehcor. Really enjoyed this video. I think this is the way forward for you video's as you are teaching the correct methods for repair as you go along with audio. This is imperative as young ppl taking up vehicle repair as a career will find this invaluable. Furthermore you methods will keep incorrectly repaired and unsafe vehicles off the road where they belong. Personally I would like to see your welding methods for attatching a new (chassis leg) frame rail to the bulkhead wether it be gas/mig or factory spot welding showing the exact weld points. Love your channel. Thankyou.
Honestly the one thing that held me back was the camera equipment. It was quite an investment but as long as I don't break it, I should be able to continue. I put 100% of the money I make here back into making better/more content. Which in turn make more money and the cycle repeats. Should the day come when this is making enough money I have very big plans on educating as many people as possible on the correct methods. There are many steps in between but I'm patient. I never thought it would be possible but I never thought I would have 34k subs so now I dream a little bigger. I do cover some of the welding in the tutorials on this Terrain both used and available. Thanks for all your support! Viewers like you is why I do this.
@@vehcor Ah man thankyou. Your channel will grow with good content. There are many ppl doing what you do and presenting it on RUclips, however their methods are more about asthetics than safety and not thinking about the next mother that will be driving that car with their kids in the back seat. I know from your previous comments and repair methods that your repairs are carried out to the highest standards so much so that you would be happy for your family to travel in a vehicle you repaired and have satisfaction in the knowledge that it was carried out to your exacting standards. I absolutely love your channel and strongly encourage you to keep doing what you do. Regards, Brian.
@@TheRebelOne. Yep, it is growing pretty fast, I'll be at 100k waaaay sooner than I thought. That was my goal. Call me retarded but I really want the silver play button! lol I do drive everything I repair and I sell them to friends an family and new customers that become repeat customers as well as friends. I want everyone to be as safe in the car as the day it was built with no problems along the way. In the long run, spending time and doing it right has made me more money that hacking things together ever could have. Hopefully I can show people that the money is not as important as the quality. Thanks again for all your support, Scott.
Great vid for a first try. Succinct and full of graphical aids (the red arrow) to explain. The hammering of pressure stresses was an eye opener. Getting new parts is the way to go, for safety reasons. Save a few dollars on reshaped bent parts will cost more the next time the vehicle takes a hit.
That was good! Doing any type of tutorial video on collision repair is tricky just because no two jobs are the same. You showd some handy tips to know and that's the stuff that saves you down the road!! I think so anyway.
You are correct, no two accidents are exactly the same even on the same vehicles hit the same way. People think fixing a Honda Civic is the same and and F250. lol I'm just showing the basics that apply to most vehicles to give people some direction. Thanks for watching.
Great video I liked the explanation on how you straighten the frame. My Jeep Wrangler needs a whole new frame. Not so sure I want to tackle the job. Keep up the good work
I have done of few Jeep frames. They are not too bad...... if you have a lift. Without it the chance for error and damage increases greatly. I do have some old time lapses of frame swaps that might give you a better idea what you are in for. They do not have narration but there is one with sub titles. I will make a narrated one like this when I have a job that requires it (I have one in my driveway that might). Thanks for watching.
Love the tutorials. You are imparting lots of knowledge and I really appreciate it. I really like how you explain the "why's" of what you are doing. That's where the real knowledge transfer happens! 👍👍
Glad you like them. I'm the "question everything" type of person. I must have driven my instructors crazy. lol Since I learn that way, I end up teaching that way. I'll have plenty more tutorials in the future but I have to get my "mistake" videos out and the part 2 of the G8 everyone has been waiting on. Thanks for the support!
Great video!! I liked the mix of both... video of the process and the narrative explaining. My car was recently damaged and IT will be undergoing this process to be restored soon. This helps me understand the work that will be going in. Granted mine is a unibody honda, but I can see the physics of it and how the frame machine can reverse the damages. Thank you!
Thank you very much. very informative .I never understood how that was done. I do now. Good narrative bud understood you easily. Please keep them coming.
Thank you for watching. I'm glad I was easy to follow. I have been doing this for a long time so I was afraid I might leave out stuff that is habit for me but needs to be clarified to follow along. More are on the way.
Great video and format. The only thing that I would do differently is reinforce the buckles in the frame after straightening, and keep on trucking! Unless it's not possible, because components have to run through the repair area, anyone sectioning a frame should have enough knowledge to reinforce the existing frame. Thank You!
These cannot be repaired, they must be replaced. Reinforcing isn't always correct. Stronger does not mean better just like straightened doesn't always mean repaired. Vehicles are supposed to absorb crash energy, making them stronger means something else has to give. I just follow repair procedures because the guys that make them have done the research, not me. Thanks for watching.
I built my own rack, as even used ones are expensive here. I work on pre 1990 cars so it's handy. One i have on the rack right now is a high end car that was wrecked ,may 40 years ago and seriously badly repaired. The two front rails were replaced and brazed into place.... then the car was in another wreck a few years later and the left front rail was simply left bent, about 15mm pointing down on the front. The owner had complained of tire wear and the hood wouldn't fit.He had bought new hood and it didn't fit either... Not surpising seeing as the car was lower on one side and 50 mm shorter than it schould have been... I've replaced most of the front but i have to remove the tunnel as that is concertinaed too .The engine left two big bolt head shaped dents in the firewall. . Such fun!
No problem, I'm here to educate and the truth is education, good or bad. I'm not here to make money, just share years of experience for the people that support me. Thanks for watching!
... you did a great job.. both the still photos, narrations, and the live action footage, this was excellent. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I came across your video, I was searching for Chevy Uplander/Venture front frame repair videos. I own a Buick Rendezvous, which has the same front end, because it's build on the same U-Platform chassis. I was looking for a way to modify the front rails or subframe, as a Concept Only, to be able to pull the engine, so that it could be slid out a bit, like 8 inches. So repairs can be performed on the side of the engine which is nearest the Firewall. It's just a thought process at the moment, both myself and a buddy of mine think about this, when we talk about working on our cars. We both have front wheel drive vehicles, and they shouldn't be such a PITA to work on, but they are. Thanks again, Alfredo Keep making the videos.. ✌
good tips and those alignment benches are crazy expensive. can put a vehicle on jack stands chain it down to floor anchors with frame rail clamps for a pull. frame rails engineered designed to crumple to pass modern safety tests or the product won't sell. when i was in autobody/collision college seen some worse than this on frame car/trucks. they had us use heat (better not to) but like you said once the potholes & vibration gets to it the cracks open up. we always hung alignment gauges right away to see it the vehicle was salvageable. your is a easy one. they told us to stay away from side cowl & pillar damage. also only certified technicians should do collision damage or there's a liability issue
Thanks, I get all those side hit and cowl hit no one wants. lol It is just like a frame rail, just MUCH harder to get to. Heat is always bad even on newer full frame vehicles. It is never ok to heat a unibody. I think being certified helps. It means you were taught the right way to repair. It does not always mean people follow it though. The biggest problem I see is that people just don't know they are not doing things correctly. Some are not trying to cut corners or be dishonest, they simply just don't know what they are doing is wrong. Hopefully my little channel can lead those people down the right path. Technology is changing so rapidly that a repair that was ok 5 years ago is not today so you need to stay current in training. However, I think we have reached the end. If everything is just replace, replace, replace, if you just replace it all you are good! Nowhere to really go after that. lol Thanks for watching!
@@vehcor A lot of newer Mercedes for example cannot be straightened as the steel is supposed to bend at designed points but once you put heat to it, thats it.its a write off. The only option is to cut the rails out fit new parts. They get written off here because it can cost 5 figures just for parts,let alone the labour to pull the drive train out. I bought a late model one to repair as daily driver .Luckily the chassis rails were OK, it was the radiator prices etc which wrote it off (*4500 ) .. Mercedes BTW invented the crumple zone idea (Bela Berenyi was the inventor) and let any other car maker use their ideas... it only took 50 years for it to catch on .
Thank you for watching. I wasn't sure which people would like better but it seems people like both. Maybe when I get a little better at the video editing I can use illustrations on the live videos. Baby steps. lol
I like the narration and appreciate that you explained why you need to hammer it. I would like to see you do a pull on a 2018 Ford Fiesta that has front end damage on the passenger side. I would love to hear what other tools you could use if you don't have a puller.
Thanks, wouldn't that be something. I wouldn't have to edit the videos and manage the filming. I could get much more content out much faster. Thanks for your support!
I could have made it longer but it was really just more of the same pulling. I was afraid it would just be boring with repetition. I will have more of these are the jobs come in. Thanks for watching and your critique (they are what helped me get this far.)
Great tutorial I liked both the videos and the pictures they were helpful this is a good teaching tool. These guy on RUclips who straighten gram rails instead of replacing the, are doing it incorrectly and creating a unsafe care.
Thanks. I'm sure the live was more fun to watch but to me the pictures explained it better. These videos are not for me so I just wanted to know what the viewers liked. Thanks for letting me know. Yep, there are a lot of people that straighten stuff they shouldn't. I don't think they are always trying to cut corners, some people just don't know the correct way. A repair that was acceptable 5 years ago is not today. Thanks for watching.
Now you know. I have had panels that the pulling equipment was maxed out trying to pull it and a few hits with a hammer and it walked right out. Thanks for watching!
live video for sure. I would love to see some videos of repairing it the right way, start to finish. Techniques used to determine where to cut damaged rail and replacement.
If you put all the tutorials together at the end it will be the whole job, or most of it, in real time. I do have a time lapse that shows it all as well. The time lapses make it easier to show a whole job that takes 60 hour or so in a watchable 10-20 minutes depending on how long I ramble. lol I didn't record a lot of live stuff outside of the tutorials because that was my focus at the time. My Silverado, "Mistake" will have more live stuff. Thanks for the feedback, it is always helpful. Thanks for watching.
Love these videos. I'm teaching myself collision repair and body work and it's great to see things up close and personal with the commentary. When you talk about measuring, where is the best place for a newcomer to get body measurements other than finding a similar vehicle? I've looked around but don't really have the work load for a fancy subscription service at this point. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, you are the type of person I had in mind. That is why we start with the basics and go from there. I have access to the measuring data through the shop I rent. There is nowhere that I know of that gives it away for free but to be honest I never had to look. My best advice to you is if you use a shop to do some of the work for you, ask them, as you may have somewhat of a relationship established with them. If you do it all yourself, maybe it is time to start making some connections. Pick a shop and ask them if they can print out the specs for you. It only takes a few minutes to look up and a few pieces of paper to print it out. Even if you throw them $20, they can put it towards there subscription which is sometimes $500/month depending on the system. Save the data, you may end up with the same car in the future like I do. I will cover this in future videos but connections can really help. There is enough work out there for everyone, you don't have to think of the competition as the enemy. So many people don't get this. I hope that was somewhat helpful. Thanks for watching and good luck on your projects!
It always helps to carry under your arm a bribe before you go into the shop like a box of freshly baked chocolate doughnuts.....this believe it or not always works and is extremely cost effective as everyone in the shop will be a sucker for one of them😜
I'll probably never attempt repairing any frame rails but I enjoy watching and learning how it is done, especially when it is done by someone who is very competent and is interested in doing a top quality job. This was very quick, to the point and insightful.
Thanks, there are a lot of people out there straightening things like this and although it might look good in the end, it is not structurally sound anymore. In the next accident it will crumple up with much less force. The scary part is when I see people heating new frames to straighten them. That is a big no no! I have seen firsthand just how weak they become. I am just trying to show people the proper methods. Thanks for watching!
I like how you had 2 cameras setup instead of moving one all over the place,great explanations on every step. I feel that it was very professional. You nailed it, great tutorial
I have never rebuilt a wrecked car, but i want to give it a try and see if it would be something I can do. I have watched hundreds of rebuild videos on RUclips and most do them in time lapse. I have been a subscriber of your channel for about 3 years now and doing this video was the kind of ones I look for so I can get an in-depth look at what's involved. So I personally would like to see more in real time. Also thank you for taking the time to do these videos and showing some of use no how's what's involved.
I appreciate the narrative. Seeing and hearing what you're doing in real time really gives insight into how you accomplish these repairs, how much work you put into them, and if it's something that I would want to dare try. You're helping us average Joes, man. Thank you!
(Edit: don't stop making the time lapse videos though, they're unique and strangely addictive.)
I was an average joe at one time as well. We all have to start somewhere. I just kept challenging myself and here we are, nothing scares me now. I like watching time lapses of just about anything so I understand. It is how my channel started and will always be part of it. The time lapse camera was rolling the the whole time so there will be one of this job after the tutorials. That way I can put links in the time lapse to direct viewers to real time videos if they want more info on a specific procedure. Thank you for your support!
My Thoughts as well
I'm from Peru, and lately labour costs (which used to be dirt-cheap) have gone up a lot, and I was asking some shops why weren't they investing in state of the art frame machines and the answer was "if a car is so messed up that needs expensive equipment to messure and pull, it's probabbly going to be totaled anyways, so why bother". I really like this tutorial a lot, please keep them coming.
Manufacturers don't want anything to be repairable. They want to keep selling more cars. They make the parts replaceable but the labor to replace them is enough to make a 2 year old car not worth the repair. Frame racks are becoming less useful if they will not let you straighten anything anymore. Thanks for watching, more are on the way.
In the year 2022 with supply issues many people are holding on to the write offs rather then crushing them for a few hundred dollars, if I pull the engine and transmission that's worth 4 grand used 🤷♂️ body work that would usually be 200 dollars is minimum 1000 dollars now unless, you know someone. I'm considering getting into the salvage business 🤔.
@@vehcor that's a good reason to keep your old workhorse frame machine and not invest in a state of the art machine with laser and GPS guidance machine that will be out dated in six months if you don't buy the new programs😂. Hey it got you here this far ,, keep her, kinda like an old wife. LMAO
I'm in the U. S. Where the democrates cheeted the idiot into office and nobody did anything about it...the price of everything here has gone way up .something's are double ... It's the self proclaimed elite trying to destroy the eno
Dude this was good. I smashed the rear end on my car and now my rear wheel has been pushed in pretty good. Thanks
Watched a lot of pulling vids this is by far the most informed vid I've seen very helpful and safety tips
thank god, refreshing to see someone on youtube that actually knows what the hell they are doing, as a bodyman myself, some of the stuff i see actually scares the hell out of me.
Thanks, I agree. It is sad that some of the more popular channels are doing the scary work and people don't know the difference. Thanks for the support!
I like how you kept it real and said how the do it yourself we could do the same thing and the truth about manufacturer don't want us to work fix our own cars they want more money to replace it. Very informative thank you
the live video was great, but i also liked the fact that you spoke of it after. Great tutorial keep it up.
Thanks, more are on the way.
The fact you took your time to share how you did this to show us in a video was fantastic. Thank you and keep that up vehcor
I prefer these over the still pictures with narrative personally. It's nice to have explained as you do and show it. Good work!!
It seems to be the favorite. Thanks for the feedback!
I was extremely skeptical about this truck a few weeks ago. I am now extremely amazed! You seem to have that touch. Awesome
Thanks for your honesty. We are just getting started. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your honesty and integrity. Im a shadetree hobbyist and have repaired a few "totalled" cars using a winch, come along, slide hammer, 4 ton porta power another car as an anchor and a great old willow tree - saved a bunch of money, learned a fun skill and had an enjoyable time in the process! Keep up the great videos and in-depth explanation and be sure to tip the Afternoon crew well, ha ha. Merry Christmas from Upstate Ny
I have done similar. There is nothing wrong with a little ingenuity!
Great to watch a pro work and explain the process- nice mix of still shots and the live pulls
Thanks, more tutorials are coming when I get a little time to edit them. Thanks for watching.
I enjoy watching your videos showing how the work is done. I also appreciate you doing things the right way and replacing the parts. You are doing things with right way.
The right way isn't always the cheapest or fastest but it does allow me to sleep at night! lol Thanks for the support!
Another good video, it's cool that you are showing people what goes into the repair process. Ideally you want to give it a yank before replacing parts anyways. It tends to help the new parts line up better.
You are spot on! Even if it doesn't look like it, sometimes adjacent panels can be moved slightly and it sucks to find out when you have a rail assembly in your hand that just doesn't want to go to its home. Thanks for watching!
Agreed 100% just because it isn't obvious doesn't mean its straight!!!, always verify the straightness of the surrounding areas before mock up and reassembling!!!!!
An excellent how it's done video. I have heard of "pulling it". I now have a much better idea of what is involved. Thanks. Looking forward to the series. I would have no worries buying a vehicle you've repaired. No cut corners. Hard to find these days.
Thanks, I'm glad I could pull of this teaching thing. With all of the "how much did you make" and "what does it cost" comments and emails I get it is no wonder good work is hard to find. Everyone is focused on money first and the work last. I could make a lot more cutting corners in the short run but it hurts you in the long run. Not to mention I just wouldn't feel right about doing something that wasn't right. I will have a video to explain that as well. Thanks for watching!
I enjoy your videos, you're about the best instructor I've seen so far.
Glad that you mentioned that specialty tools are not needed if you have ingenuity. Sometimes you have to make the tool to get the job done.
Thanks, I'm glad I could pull it off. lol Sometimes the homemade or repurposed tools are better than the "right" tool. People always think of you don't have the fancy tools it cannot be done right but they are wrong. Thanks for watching.
This was my first time watching a video like this. Live tutorials were a big help. Thank you.
I will make some more when I have the time. Thanks for watching. I am glad they were helpful.
I’ve watched dozens and dozens of videos on this subject and read myriad articles and papers form the manufacturers and comprehensive studies on the metallurgy going on here. Truly incredible what they are doing today with ultra high strength steel. I really dug in when I went to level a dimple on the frame rail of my daughter’s Magnum. I’m a pretty big guy, and known to “make” things submit to my will, strength, and most of all, thorough understanding of leverage and physics. I used to only drive cars made before 1972, and have plenty of experience straightening out “mistakes”. My best friend totaled my 1968 Country Squire, and although he hit a tree at only 35ish MPH, the damage was astonishing, with the right headlight pushed back, massive steel bumper folded in, fender folded in, the works. I took a 28oz Estwing framing hammer and out of anger and curiosity to see what it took to bend that steel, did an overhand swing on a smooth section of that fender. On a modern car that hammer would go through that sheet metal. On this fender, it barely left the waffle pattern of the fresh hammer. Anyway, I used a hand sledge to massage that slight wrinkle, maybe 3/8” tall, where the steel is layered/laminated, and bent just like the vehicle in your video, it made the inner layer wrinkle back towards the point of impact. I don’t know the gauge, but that layer was maybe 1/8” thick. Annnnnnd. Nothing. It was near the brand new strut I had installed, as I replaced the entire front end suspension parts. But I didn’t want to scratch it. So to hit that point from afar I used a tire spoon, about three feet long, round butt end, flat spoon on the end against the rail. I wailed on that thing for three hours. My wife told me the “CHING” got ALMOST therapeutic for HER! Easily over a thousand very hard hit, leaving the end of the spoon mushroomed over. It left marks in the steel, but did not bend it. So I applied some MAP gas torch to it until it got a cherry glow in that area and that helped. That just blew my mind. That’s what led me to learn about the steel used, and found out that section used DP 590, dual phase, two different types bonded together, and the metallurgy used to create each type is incredible. They have figured out how to make relatively light weight steel also ultra strong, hence the name. I have a tow car garage with a support post in the middle. I used that, big ass eyebolts into the far wall, and some floor anchors to keep the car from moving towards the drivers side, all anchored just act of the cowl, under the car and on the pinch welds I used some beam clamps which worked great. On the impact side to pull the apron and rail, I used a two ton electric winch with a pulley to get close to four tons, but not really, plus a come-along, plus two large 2” wide ratchet straps, all progressively attached from behind the strut halfway to the cowl, then at the strut below on the rail, and then two more points along the rail to the bumper mount, of course the bumper was removed, and the headlight support, which is the main cross support framing the top of the radiator, headlights, and binds the fenders together, with the radiator support below that. It was bent slightly annd I fixed that in five minutes. In fact, I really didn’t think the frame was bent, initall, that’s how subtle it was. The hood was saved and the drivers door, with all the impact being at the knuckle and strut zone. The knuckle was bent over and pinched the tire. The upper A arm broke, as well as tie rod end. That headlight got cracked, but almost spared. So it was concentrated. So I rebuilt the front end, all good, easy, took maybe 6-8 hours, doing both sides since she had already been prepping for a front end upgrade before the accident, she already had the parts even before insurance did their thing. On that note, they wanted to total it, of course, but it’s was in the ragged edge. She loves the car which is not replaceable, kinda, and the damage honestly didn’t look too bad. We ordered a new painted fender and bumper cover, easy bolt ons. Surprisingly, the fender bolted right up with perfect gap to the door, and the mount holes on the apron lined up perfectly too. Hmmm. Still not sure why. Cause the hood on these cars has no adjustment, and did show a gap on the passenger side and a little overlap on the drivers new fender. And when I loosened the bumper and the cross support, the drivers side rail snapped back about 3/4”. Everything seemed to line up, except the hood. But I was wrong. BOTH fenders/aprons were pushed to the passenger side about 1”. And hence this story and why I’m watching these videos. I have pulled, and pulled some more, and I can see everything moving, A LOT! Easily more than the 1” needed. But when I release the tension it always goes back to about 1”2 shy of where it should be now. I even had plumb bobs up and down the chassis, and the shop manual has spec measurements in it, so I made a grid under the car to keep track. The grid is worthless if the car moves at ALL, and it always does. Hence your frame rack. I know I can get this right. Question is, how do YOU measure the big picture to make sure everything is where it should be. These pints are so far apart and measuring is so difficult, I even made a tram gauge, but even then, 1/8” here and there is 1/4”, and then combine that with imperfections in measuring a diagonal from one corner to the other, it will never be precise enough to be right. I’ve measured on this car maybe 20+ times. But I am determined. This is my daughter’s baby, and of course I got one new in 2006, and she’s always loved my hot rod wagon, mine is black, she bought a nice cherry one in Inferno Red, Flowmasters, and of course both are RT Hemi cars, cause, why breathe otherwise? I’ve even used my car for reference. Some parts are dead on. But how do you know that your reference points are even correct. At one point I got a perfect isosceles triangle from tow rear corner points to the center front of the engine cradle and was convinced it was square. Went to do toe-in, with a laser down the side of the car referenced off the rear rotors, and even accounting for their own toe-in, and got the same thing as the hood. One inch, on the nose, was how much the drivers side rotor was closer to the rail than the passenger side was. Ugh! It almost like I bend it, maybe three or five inches last where it should be, release the tension, take measurements, and then over several hours or days it returns to near where it started. I have moved it, and of course the whole rail and apron didn’t move proportionally, but it’s still off by about 1/2” in some places to 3/4” in others and it turned out that the passenger side apron was harder to pull than the drivers side. Maybe stress hardening? Help. Just as a point of reference in a pull just like you did in the video, how far PAST the point of being square did you need to pull to leave it correct? I feel like I’m going to rip something apart if I keep pulling so hard. Of course I’ve had bungee cords and heavy blankets strategically placed to prevent any failures from becoming more damaging than needed. What is normal. Also, the papers said that on DP590, heat was not a good idea, but very localized and short term heat could be used to relived shallow wrinkles. Otherwise, it can make the steel more brittle, or more soft, depending on lots of factors.
I like these live tutorials.
You are in luck, more are on the way. Thanks for watching.
My 99 Tahoe is at the shop having the frame straightened right now, I landed on your video because I was curious to understand how it's done. Thank you for sharing! I can only hope mine is done right.
Nice to see someone fix a vehicle the right way. The rebuilders I worked for were cheap and almost never replaced parts like you did. They would have me straighten those rails and apron because that's "good enough"! I hate that statement!!
That is the good thing about doing it for myself, I can do it the way I want..... the right way. Good enough... isn't! Thanks for watching!
Wow,1st video?
No wonder you’re looking at 200k subs already.
I know a good teacher when I see one.Thank you!
I’m a brake operator and whenever we bend something you’ve always gotta over bend it a real little bit because steel has memory and we call it spring back, exactly what you just said, cheers.
Over bending is another method they used to use. They no longer recommend it for cars because one person's idea of enough is not the same as another. It does work just as well though. Thanks for watching.
Dude I’ve got to say I’ve watched other videos, and always come back here. You do a great job at explaining what you’re doing and approaching it from a beginners view props 👍.
Awesome! Thank you!
both ways you did this was done very well i have been doing this kind of work for well over 30 years and i think you did a tremendous job. I cant decide which way was better so i would try to incorporate both methods. you did a great job my complements to the chef
Thanks, I think the best would be live video with the animation as I explain it. My video editing skills are still a work in progress so I'll keep practicing and maybe I'll get there. Thanks for the support!
I used a Chief Easy liner for many years to do frame work. You did a good job explaining what you were doing.
I have used the Chief as well. I do prefer the Car-o-Liner though. Thanks for watching.
Just stumbled across you looking up salvage repair. I'm mustering up the courage to buy and rebuild a salvage truck. Your videos definitely make it less donating. Thanks for all the great content keep them coming and good luck on the siverado! Can't wait to see that one done 👍
Start small, the last thing you want to do is get in too deep on your first build. Even the simple jobs have challenges so you don't want to be overwhelmed. I'm going to get back to these tutorials as soon as the Silverado is done. Good luck on your build if you jump in! Thanks for the support!
Great video. Both tutorial, and pictures with narrative. Explains it all throughly.
Thank you!
Right On Point!! People Are Scared; as a Shop may not know if Vehicle is for End User or ReSale in which Potential Liabilities and Approaches are Best and Today Many People Are Afraid of Actual Work, as They Just Want To "Flip" It.
In My Case; My Vehicle Was Wrecked as Last Owner Neglected The Brakes For Whatever Reason. Minor Frame Damage was Easily Fixable but a 2wd Jeep Isn't Worth Much, especially in New England With All That SNOW! It Was Worth It as I am the End User and I'm Gonna Run It to the End while Taking Care of it Of course...
Some people just don't know that you cannot use the old methods on everything. Once upon a time, sectioning those rails would have been acceptable but not with the HSS. Good luck with the Jeep.
Mind blown....never realised there were so many ways to bend stuff.... fantastically informative.. Neil uk :)
Oh, we are just beginning. There are lots more ways to move stuff around. I'll explain them all eventually. Thanks for watching!
Keep going. This was very entertaining + informative. Your insight and comments were thought provoking. Be you. We’ll watch.
Will do. Thanks for the support!
This is the first time I've seen one of your tutorials. I thought it was pretty good. All of it. I'LL have to look at and see if you have any on the repair of my 2008 Outback and 2006 Forester.😊
It gets hit, it will bend. Really doesn't matter as long as it's in alignment and crinkles worked out. Crumple zones are there to bend. It's a folk lore to replace every bent piece
You have no idea how metal works.
Excellent video and very interesting,I very much enjoy your videos in either format,keep up the great repairs.
Thank you, will do!
I liked your video with your narrative. Do more, I always liked your stories, even with note crew coming in late
I'll do more tutorials after 100k subs. Thanks for the support.
I really enjoy when you explain as your going along
Thanks, I'll keep that going!
Thanks for posting; I really dig your videos.
Thanks, I'll keep making them if you keep watching them!
I caught your very first video AWESOME it was great and very helpful THANKS Every job is easy with the proper tools and proper knowledge
I love your video! I just wish you could smile from time to time ... you got the face for it! Keep them coming!
Thanks. I'm not the smiling type. Don't get me wrong, I am a very happy person. I just don't smile much. Thanks for watching. I will get back to the tutorials soon.
Hi Vehcor. Really enjoyed this video. I think this is the way forward for you video's as you are teaching the correct methods for repair as you go along with audio. This is imperative as young ppl taking up vehicle repair as a career will find this invaluable. Furthermore you methods will keep incorrectly repaired and unsafe vehicles off the road where they belong.
Personally I would like to see your welding methods for attatching a new (chassis leg) frame rail to the bulkhead wether it be gas/mig or factory spot welding showing the exact weld points. Love your channel. Thankyou.
Honestly the one thing that held me back was the camera equipment. It was quite an investment but as long as I don't break it, I should be able to continue. I put 100% of the money I make here back into making better/more content. Which in turn make more money and the cycle repeats. Should the day come when this is making enough money I have very big plans on educating as many people as possible on the correct methods. There are many steps in between but I'm patient. I never thought it would be possible but I never thought I would have 34k subs so now I dream a little bigger. I do cover some of the welding in the tutorials on this Terrain both used and available. Thanks for all your support! Viewers like you is why I do this.
@@vehcor Ah man thankyou. Your channel will grow with good content. There are many ppl doing what you do and presenting it on RUclips, however their methods are more about asthetics than safety and not thinking about the next mother that will be driving that car with their kids in the back seat. I know from your previous comments and repair methods that your repairs are carried out to the highest standards so much so that you would be happy for your family to travel in a vehicle you repaired and have satisfaction in the knowledge that it was carried out to your exacting standards. I absolutely love your channel and strongly encourage you to keep doing what you do. Regards, Brian.
@@TheRebelOne. Yep, it is growing pretty fast, I'll be at 100k waaaay sooner than I thought. That was my goal. Call me retarded but I really want the silver play button! lol I do drive everything I repair and I sell them to friends an family and new customers that become repeat customers as well as friends. I want everyone to be as safe in the car as the day it was built with no problems along the way. In the long run, spending time and doing it right has made me more money that hacking things together ever could have. Hopefully I can show people that the money is not as important as the quality. Thanks again for all your support, Scott.
Thanks for that, Never saw a frame puller "in action". Great explanation!
I'm like a little kid, I love watching the metal move! Thanks for watching!
Keep them coming,Love learning this type of repairs...............................Fort Worth,Tx
This is a good Video, it gives the uninitiated an idea into what it takes to repair damage 👍
Great vid for a first try. Succinct and full of graphical aids (the red arrow) to explain. The hammering of pressure stresses was an eye opener. Getting new parts is the way to go, for safety reasons. Save a few dollars on reshaped bent parts will cost more the next time the vehicle takes a hit.
Great video, illustration are very helpful. Patiently waiting for next one!
Thanks, and thanks for your patience, I do have some big projects in the works.
That was good! Doing any type of tutorial video on collision repair is tricky just because no two jobs are the same. You showd some handy tips to know and that's the stuff that saves you down the road!! I think so anyway.
You are correct, no two accidents are exactly the same even on the same vehicles hit the same way. People think fixing a Honda Civic is the same and and F250. lol I'm just showing the basics that apply to most vehicles to give people some direction. Thanks for watching.
Great video I liked the explanation on how you straighten the frame. My Jeep Wrangler needs a whole new frame. Not so sure I want to tackle the job. Keep up the good work
I have done of few Jeep frames. They are not too bad...... if you have a lift. Without it the chance for error and damage increases greatly. I do have some old time lapses of frame swaps that might give you a better idea what you are in for. They do not have narration but there is one with sub titles. I will make a narrated one like this when I have a job that requires it (I have one in my driveway that might). Thanks for watching.
I loved this, definitely continue with this method of tutorial with both live video and stills with illustration.
Thanks, will do!
Love the tutorials. You are imparting lots of knowledge and I really appreciate it. I really like how you explain the "why's" of what you are doing. That's where the real knowledge transfer happens! 👍👍
Glad you like them. I'm the "question everything" type of person. I must have driven my instructors crazy. lol Since I learn that way, I end up teaching that way. I'll have plenty more tutorials in the future but I have to get my "mistake" videos out and the part 2 of the G8 everyone has been waiting on. Thanks for the support!
Great video!! I liked the mix of both... video of the process and the narrative explaining. My car was recently damaged and IT will be undergoing this process to be restored soon. This helps me understand the work that will be going in. Granted mine is a unibody honda, but I can see the physics of it and how the frame machine can reverse the damages. Thank you!
Thanks, glad it was useful. Hope your car turns out perfect. Thanks for watching.
Great info, I had a question about if you are a novice but you answered it in the end, thank you 👍👍
Thanks, glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Good afternoon, I think it's a great video, I like the tutorials because you always learn, I hope you keep doing them, greetings from Spain.
Thank you very much. very informative .I never understood how that was done. I do now. Good narrative bud understood you easily. Please keep them coming.
Thank you for watching. I'm glad I was easy to follow. I have been doing this for a long time so I was afraid I might leave out stuff that is habit for me but needs to be clarified to follow along. More are on the way.
Great video! You explained everything very well and I like how helpful you are to the every day person.
Thanks, that is my goal! Thanks for watching.
Great video and format. The only thing that I would do differently is reinforce the buckles in the frame after straightening, and keep on trucking! Unless it's not possible, because components have to run through the repair area, anyone sectioning a frame should have enough knowledge to reinforce the existing frame. Thank You!
These cannot be repaired, they must be replaced. Reinforcing isn't always correct. Stronger does not mean better just like straightened doesn't always mean repaired. Vehicles are supposed to absorb crash energy, making them stronger means something else has to give. I just follow repair procedures because the guys that make them have done the research, not me. Thanks for watching.
Simply Awesome! This guy is a straight shooter, rare these days!
Great video on frame straightening, good to know you have to brace area where rail is kinked when pulling back. Very interesting and informative
Thanks, just trying to save viewers from learning the hard way. lol Thanks for watching.
Live video and still drawing were great and very informational
I think I may use both when I can for a variety. Thanks for watching!
Your explanation was to the point far superior video
Thank you.
I built my own rack, as even used ones are expensive here. I work on pre 1990 cars so it's handy. One i have on the rack right now is a high end car that was wrecked ,may 40 years ago and seriously badly repaired. The two front rails were replaced and brazed into place.... then the car was in another wreck a few years later and the left front rail was simply left bent, about 15mm pointing down on the front. The owner had complained of tire wear and the hood wouldn't fit.He had bought new hood and it didn't fit either... Not surpising seeing as the car was lower on one side and 50 mm shorter than it schould have been... I've replaced most of the front but i have to remove the tunnel as that is concertinaed too .The engine left two big bolt head shaped dents in the firewall. . Such fun!
I have had to repair some very shady work on cars I picked up as well. There are some real hacks out there! Thanks for doing it the right way!
I'm a diy and your talking about how you pull etc is very helpful
Thanks, good luck on the projects!
You are doing so excellent job. The chassis was like new .
Yet another production done right on the sweet spot. Good on ya mate!
Thanks, let's see if I can keep this streak going!
Great info. Thank you for being full honest about that the industry is change to.
No problem, I'm here to educate and the truth is education, good or bad. I'm not here to make money, just share years of experience for the people that support me. Thanks for watching!
... you did a great job.. both the still photos, narrations, and the live action footage, this was excellent. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I came across your video, I was searching for Chevy Uplander/Venture front frame repair videos. I own a Buick Rendezvous, which has the same front end, because it's build on the same U-Platform chassis.
I was looking for a way to modify the front rails or subframe, as a Concept Only, to be able to pull the engine, so that it could be slid out a bit, like 8 inches. So repairs can be performed on the side of the engine which is nearest the Firewall. It's just a thought process at the moment, both myself and a buddy of mine think about this, when we talk about working on our cars. We both have front wheel drive vehicles, and they shouldn't be such a PITA to work on, but they are.
Thanks again, Alfredo Keep making the videos.. ✌
Sir, this video was and still is top notch.
This way is good with the narative
Everyone seems to like it. I guess the music was really bad. lol
Appreciate your time to make this video.
No problem! I appreciate you watching them!
good tips and those alignment benches are crazy expensive. can put a vehicle on jack stands chain it down to floor anchors with frame rail clamps for a pull. frame rails engineered designed to crumple to pass modern safety tests or the product won't sell. when i was in autobody/collision college seen some worse than this on frame car/trucks. they had us use heat (better not to) but like you said once the potholes & vibration gets to it the cracks open up. we always hung alignment gauges right away to see it the vehicle was salvageable. your is a easy one. they told us to stay away from side cowl & pillar damage. also only certified technicians should do collision damage or there's a liability issue
Thanks, I get all those side hit and cowl hit no one wants. lol It is just like a frame rail, just MUCH harder to get to. Heat is always bad even on newer full frame vehicles. It is never ok to heat a unibody. I think being certified helps. It means you were taught the right way to repair. It does not always mean people follow it though. The biggest problem I see is that people just don't know they are not doing things correctly. Some are not trying to cut corners or be dishonest, they simply just don't know what they are doing is wrong. Hopefully my little channel can lead those people down the right path. Technology is changing so rapidly that a repair that was ok 5 years ago is not today so you need to stay current in training. However, I think we have reached the end. If everything is just replace, replace, replace, if you just replace it all you are good! Nowhere to really go after that. lol Thanks for watching!
@@vehcor A lot of newer Mercedes for example cannot be straightened as the steel is supposed to bend at designed points but once you put heat to it, thats it.its a write off. The only option is to cut the rails out fit new parts. They get written off here because it can cost 5 figures just for parts,let alone the labour to pull the drive train out. I bought a late model one to repair as daily driver .Luckily the chassis rails were OK, it was the radiator prices etc which wrote it off (*4500 ) .. Mercedes BTW invented the crumple zone idea (Bela Berenyi was the inventor) and let any other car maker use their ideas... it only took 50 years for it to catch on .
Thanks for the great vid. I think both methods (live video and stills) is really helpful keep up the great content.
Thank you for watching. I wasn't sure which people would like better but it seems people like both. Maybe when I get a little better at the video editing I can use illustrations on the live videos. Baby steps. lol
I like the narration and appreciate that you explained why you need to hammer it. I would like to see you do a pull on a 2018 Ford Fiesta that has front end damage on the passenger side. I would love to hear what other tools you could use if you don't have a puller.
Great video. Keep them coming. Both action and still are helpful . Thanks
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
First video I've seen and I appreciate it thank you for posting.
Love it just what we like to see, great detail .. discovery channel will knocking on your door soon
Thanks, wouldn't that be something. I wouldn't have to edit the videos and manage the filming. I could get much more content out much faster. Thanks for your support!
You explain what you are doing well either way. Thanks
Thanks and thanks for watching!
2 cameras 2 angles, brilliant idea
I like these! My only critique would be maybe give us a little more content in each video. We don’t mind 25 minute videos!!
I could have made it longer but it was really just more of the same pulling. I was afraid it would just be boring with repetition. I will have more of these are the jobs come in. Thanks for watching and your critique (they are what helped me get this far.)
vehcor heck yeah buddy, love watching your videos. You give us what Sam Cracc and Goonzquad can’t, you do the frame work yourself!
Starting my Collison school next month and these videos are calming my unpatienceness
Really informative video. Thank you for taking us behind the curtain to see how this kind of repair is done. Keep the videos coming!
Thank you for watching. Glad you enjoy them, I have plenty more to come.
I enjoy learning. You do a great job.
I think I kind of enjoy teaching. I never thought I would. Thanks for watching.
I love every video you make
Thank you, I'll keep making them.
Great tutorial I liked both the videos and the pictures they were helpful this is a good teaching tool. These guy on RUclips who straighten gram rails instead of replacing the, are doing it incorrectly and creating a unsafe care.
Thanks. I'm sure the live was more fun to watch but to me the pictures explained it better. These videos are not for me so I just wanted to know what the viewers liked. Thanks for letting me know. Yep, there are a lot of people that straighten stuff they shouldn't. I don't think they are always trying to cut corners, some people just don't know the correct way. A repair that was acceptable 5 years ago is not today. Thanks for watching.
I like all of your videos! Keep up the great work
There is no need for changes, it´s perfect. If you don´t get it after a video like this one you never gonna get it anyway.
Thanks!
Awesome video, always learn a lot from your vids. Thanks
Thank you, glad to hear that!
amazing video , really helpful. will be looking forward for more !!
Thank you!
Great video, keep'em coming!
Thank you, will do!
Awesome thanks for the video I like the live video and commentary
No problem, thanks for watching.
Cheers mate, very interesting I’ve always wondered what they hammer the box section when pulling it!
Now you know. I have had panels that the pulling equipment was maxed out trying to pull it and a few hits with a hammer and it walked right out. Thanks for watching!
live video for sure. I would love to see some videos of repairing it the right way, start to finish. Techniques used to determine where to cut damaged rail and replacement.
If you put all the tutorials together at the end it will be the whole job, or most of it, in real time. I do have a time lapse that shows it all as well. The time lapses make it easier to show a whole job that takes 60 hour or so in a watchable 10-20 minutes depending on how long I ramble. lol I didn't record a lot of live stuff outside of the tutorials because that was my focus at the time. My Silverado, "Mistake" will have more live stuff. Thanks for the feedback, it is always helpful. Thanks for watching.
Hope you are well looking forward to the new videos. Have a MERRY Christmas to you and your family as well
I'll keep then coming! Merry Christmas to you and yours as well!
Great video, good narration and explanations
Thank you!
The still diagrams perfectly described what you were doing.
That was an awesome video! Thanks for taking the time to make it. I really hope to see more in the future!
Thanks, no problem. If you guys keep watching them, I'll keep making them!
Love these videos. I'm teaching myself collision repair and body work and it's great to see things up close and personal with the commentary. When you talk about measuring, where is the best place for a newcomer to get body measurements other than finding a similar vehicle? I've looked around but don't really have the work load for a fancy subscription service at this point. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, you are the type of person I had in mind. That is why we start with the basics and go from there. I have access to the measuring data through the shop I rent. There is nowhere that I know of that gives it away for free but to be honest I never had to look. My best advice to you is if you use a shop to do some of the work for you, ask them, as you may have somewhat of a relationship established with them. If you do it all yourself, maybe it is time to start making some connections. Pick a shop and ask them if they can print out the specs for you. It only takes a few minutes to look up and a few pieces of paper to print it out. Even if you throw them $20, they can put it towards there subscription which is sometimes $500/month depending on the system. Save the data, you may end up with the same car in the future like I do. I will cover this in future videos but connections can really help. There is enough work out there for everyone, you don't have to think of the competition as the enemy. So many people don't get this. I hope that was somewhat helpful. Thanks for watching and good luck on your projects!
It always helps to carry under your arm a bribe before you go into the shop like a box of freshly baked chocolate doughnuts.....this believe it or not always works and is extremely cost effective as everyone in the shop will be a sucker for one of them😜
@@TheRebelOne. Doughnut bribes will get you far in life!
@@vehcor 😁👍
I like live video you explain the repair process very well.
Thanks, I'll do some more in the future.
Great instructional video. Enjoy another one of your video.