2000-2009 Ford Focus Oil Change
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2014
- To change the oil on your Focus with a Duratec 20 engine, you will need: oil catch pan, funnel, 4.5 quarts of 5w20 oil, oil socket wrench, Motorcraft FL-910S oil filter (or comparable oil filter from other brands), oil filter wrench, and 13 mm socket wrench.
Here are some additional online resources I mention in the video:
- Oil Filter Reference: www.framcatalog.com/Competitor...
- Oil Recycling Location Finder: search.earth911.com 
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I'm Irish. And. Our mechanics are rip off artists. I'm learning bit by bit to maintain my car. So far I can put brake pads on all by myself lol. Thank you for this. Im. Going try it ha
Glad to be of help!
Really good video! Loved the step by step instructions, even some of the supposed “simpler” things that most people know. Because I don’t. So a big THANK YOU!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thanks for the help. You really explained everything nicely instead of just assuming that the viewers knew what you were doing
I just finally got myself a car and I’m learning all kinds of things with your videos. Thank you so much! ❤
That is awesome! Glad they’re helping!
Don't forget to check for the gasket off of the old filter. I over looked this one time when I had my oil changed out of convenience at Wally World and oil went everywhere from the old gasket being stuck on (double gaskets) when I did my own oil change next. Dab a bit of new oil on the new filter rim and lubricate and check that the old gasket has come off.
truth.
that's sound advice
EXACTLY what we were looking for. Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice review, just what I needed. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
loose the jack and get yourself a set of ramps so much easier quicker and most of all safer. Also loose the rachet and socket because sometimes under the effort needed to loosen the drainplug it can tilt slightly and slip. Over time eventually you could end up rounding off the head. Instead use a box end wrench they work so much better. Been changing my oil since 1970.
Good tip!
Missed this one all those years ago. I replaced the drain plug with on Amazon "Oil Drain Plug (M14 x 1.5 MM) Made of 7075 Aluminum with Neodymium Magnet Fits for Honda Acura Ford GM Mazda Hyundai KIA and More Vehicles" As far as the oil filter goes I have always used the Royal Purple 20-400 which is oversized but with the correct valving, lets you use the full 5 quarts without issue. The oil filter also has the neodymium magnet to capture particles. This year I replaced the front lower control arms, replace the lower radiator support which was dust. Replaced the driving/fog lights assemblies and added led, opposite of the truck release I cut a hole and added a vacuum gauge made by glow shift that I had for years, it's a factory look and matches the lighting. Replaced all the dash lights with led, wow do they pop; not the same car. Ran a 4 gauge cable back to the trunk and added a 2500 watt inverter that I had for years; never know when you can use power for something. Lastly for this year coming up in a couple of days; replacing the stock valve cover with an aluminum cover. For next year I have the complete 6 link, 3 per side trailing arm set for the rear. I almost forgot, I did shock in the rear and struts in the front with new strut bearings. Do those yourself as last time I took it to a shop due to working with springs and they did not install the strut bearings correctly. Add another thing I forgot, auto dimming mirror with compass, it's the cool factor. Couple hours a day over two weeks but worked out great.
Very informative, the only thing I think to add would be that for supplies we need Jacks (I think that's what they are called). This may be implied for most but for complete newbies, we need to know all of the supplies :)
Good flag!
nice vid. very straight forward if i wasn't bright i would probably still get it the way you explain it
Glad it helped!
Thank you very much for very nice explanation.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent DIY video. Thank you kindly.
Glad it was helpful!
The 2005-2011 Focus has the Duratec engine. Oil changes are nice and easy. Most of the earlier cars (2000-2004) had the Zetec engine. The oil filter on those lives fairly high up, on the back of the engine. Much more difficult to change, and really messy.
Thank you!! Very helpful
Glad it helped!
I have the same car with the 2.3 engine. i change my filter first like you but befor I put the new filter on I drain my old oil out first. if your going to use the oem filter then use the oem oil as well. take it from a ford guy or mobil 1
What is most important is using an oil that meets the proper Ford spec. :)
exactly what i needed ty
glad it helped!
Great video, although I wouldn’t recommended overfilling by 0.5 quarts intentionally. I have seen people run the FL400S instead of the FL910S though which would help level out the extra oil. I’ve checked my brothers 2005 Focus before and the quick lube techs way overfill it so I’ve done the last 3 services.
Great point!
Great job thank you for sharing godbless 🙌 💖 👍
Thanks for watching!
That Caddy sure looks a lot more fun to drive than the Focus.
Stevo that's my wife's father's car. I should do a whole video on all the crazy things he's tried to do to it in terms of aftermarket retrofit :P
because of where the filter is located I fill my filter with oil befor putting it back on
Why is that?
Some of these cars have fill plugs and oil filters wedged behind the axles, I get what you’re saying
great! tnx
welcome!
NO, do NOT overfill the engine with oil. That is a mistake. When you purchase a 5-quart jug, just pour out half a quart into an empty 1-quart container. Then you will have exactly 4.5 quarts in your new jug to pour into the engine. Remember, when you drain the old oil, not all of it comes out. There will always be just a little of it left in there. So, if you overfill with 5 quarts, you have to figure in the old residue left which could be a half quart or more. So now you have 5 1/2 quarts of oil in there when the manual calls for 4 1/2. This can hurt your motor. So people, please don't overfill. Just add 4.5 quarts of 5W20 and you will be fine. Also, don't forget to replace the gasket on the drain plug. Thanks!
Fair enough. This car was owned and operated for 12 years, using a 5 quart filler. Gratefuly never had any issue on overfill. 🤷
@@MattStephensRich thanks Matt. Very good video by the way.
@@LA_Commander hope it helped!
There's no reason to remove the filter first. If you drained from the plug first, less oil would come out with the filter
Ultimately dealers choice!
@MATT SR So this video was done in 2014 when your 2007 Focus was 7 years old. It looks like there was 89,000 US Miles on the odometer. I had a few questions if you don't mind:
1- Any idea at what mileage you switched to Full Synthetic oil on the 2007 Focus?
2- Did you ever have any oil leaks as a result of switching to Full synthetic?
3- Any oil consumption/burning issues (unrelated to leaks) once you switched to Full Synthetic oil on your 2007 Focus?
4- Do you still have the car? If not ....what mileage did it run to before you got rid of it...any leaks/oil burning?
I only ask because i have a 2008 Ford Focus with 46,000 US-Miles / 74,000 KM (Canada-Metric) and it's used Synthetic-Blend it's whole life....and i was thinking of Switching to Full synthetic ....but my previous cars that were made in the 90s i didnt have a good experience switching to synthetic. So i just wondered.....as our motors are essentially the same.....zetec/duratec.......and same oils specs/capacity. Anyway if you have the time to respond i'd appreciate it.
The car switched to synthetic a few years into service, I’d guess around the 70,000 mile mark, having used semi-synthetic until then. I sold the car to a brother-in-law last year and it’s still running strong with no oil burning issues or leaks (we’ve done some suspension work, but that’s par for the course as the car is now at 150,000).
Long story short, switch to synthetic with no fear!
What kind A suspension work did you do?
Engine mounts and new coil springs
I think I will drain the oil out of the crankcase first so there will be less hot, black oil dripping out.
I assume you're referring to my doing the oil filter before the drain plug - it really doesn't matter, as the oil dripping out when removing the filter is the oil within the filter. You would get the same drippage happened regardless of doing the drain plug first.
You “shouldn’t” have to use an oil filter wrench. But sometimes in certain situations. You might have to. I had to have 3 people try and get my filter off an eclipse I owned. That means it’s too tight. Also a newer Chevy 1500 theyre filters are covered 3/4 by the pan that’s another situation you’d have to use a filter wrench.
Very true - it’s especially the worst when you can tell the previous oil job definitely used an oil wrench to re-install. 😅
@@MattStephensRich sucks but the wrench made life so much easier. Especially in wierd situations. Pontiac vans, they’re up in the middle in a wierd spot on the front, you can’t get it from the top, but it’s very difficult from the bottom. I just do oil changes for friends leisurely for free.
For some reason my oil drain plug is 15mm not 13mm but all the other videos also say 13. Doesn’t make much sense unless the previous owner replaced it with a 15mm instead for some strange reason
Weird indeed!
Helpful clarification!
Mine to was 15 mm
Most Ford drain plugs are 15mm. But yes, some are 13mm, 16mm, etc.
You don’t need to prime the oil filter with oil before putting it back on?
Nope - you have oil in the system already circulated. Think of it this way - if you needed to prime, it would be said in the instruction manual
I always prime the filter
Never hurts!
This saved me for 200-400$
glad to help!
Do you put the old oil filter that you put in the new box in the "Trash" or "Recycle bin" ?
Neither - just take it to your nearest auto garage, Walmart, or recycling center, who can add to their stash of used oil filters, which need to be picked up separately for recycling. The steel casing is the biggest value, and oil filters need to be collected separately for oil filter recycling centers. Putting the filter into the trash makes it end up in a landfill (no good), and putting in recycling can actually contaminate other recycling with old oil, which can ultimately end up in a landfill as contaminated (no good). This is actually a really cool video on the process of recycling oil filters! ruclips.net/video/NplprEGyFKw/видео.html
Everything you don't need to know about oil😂
Sorry, I typically go longform to give full explainer!
I always use a 6 point socket instead of a 12 point but that's just me
Whatever works!
Its more better to use latex gloves ($0.25/pr) instead of spensive gloves
Latex is great!
Nice gloves
the best.
I am in the middle of changing mine now
Hope it went well!
Fill the filter and I never use used oil on the filter gasket. When you prefill the filter, you will have new oil next to the gasket it always happens when you prefill so wipe some new oil on it. Sorry bud but you did no favors to the viewers.
Folks are always welcome to go their own routes 😊 for prefilling filters, while it doesn’t hurt, you’ll also notice few if any auto manual or mechanic shops follow this practice, and just go with a regular install.
How much oil do you put back into the engine?
Jon B The manual calls for 4.5 quarts of oil, but you are ok to put the whole jug of 5 quarts in.
Thanks!
Read your owner's manual and that will tell you the correct amount of oil to put back in. Do not watch a RUclips video for this advice as your car might be different.
Think I got 2 qts out? Kids friends car
Change filter after you change oil...
It doesn't really matter the order, as oil does not touch the filter until the oil pump is operating (when the vehicle is turned on). So you can go with whatever is easiest!
i was recommended 5w 40 whats the difference
That would make a great video topic! :P
Oil is comprised of two number sets: the first number (5 in the case of 5w40) is the "weight" of the oil when cold. Weight is simply the term used for how free flowing it can be. The second number (40 in the case of 5w40) is the "weight" of the oil when hot. In general, it is good for oil to thicken up when hot, as this protects various components from wear and tear, providing a protective layer (this is also why oil can be persnickety when it gets on your skin or clothes - it's great at sticking to surfaces). These thickness recommendations will vary based on vehicle type, due in part to how engines are designed - some feature tight clearances, which means thinner oils are needed. Others are built for performance, and expose themselves to higher operating temperatures, making a higher weight oil more ideal.
For the Ford Focus line, 5w20 has remained the factory recommended oil, offering best fuel economy and performance protection. Still with the Ford recommendation. :)
always use what's recommend in your owner's manual, which is 5w20
Thicker oil, that would be possibly advisable for hot summer temperatures.
@@Rampant_Colt If you research it you will find that Ford actually went with the 5w20 in the USA to help bring their fleet MPG down slightly. The very same motor gets recommended 5w30 in Europe. 5w30 is fine to use, 5w40 might be a little thick unless you are in a constant 90 degree plus climate.
@@stevemccooleq
roger that. CAFE requirements. I have 97,000 miles on my 2.0 and still use 5w20 because of the severe winters we have in my location. 30 weight might be too thick, as i only change oil once a year
Why creat a mess pulling your filter off first. No thanks
You’re welcome to tackle either side of the oil change. I personally like doing the filter so you have more time to let it drain. 😊
Not a bad video, but... 1) use fresh oil on the new oil filter gasket, not dirty oil; 2) remove the dip stick and oil filler cap before draining oil; and 3) let the oil drain for a good hour or two before replacing the oil filter and oil filler plug on the oil pan. This 3rd step will insure that most all the dirty oil is free of the system.
The tip about bringing the engine up to operating temp is a good one. Another idea is to raise the front of the car a bit on jack stands to allow a more free flow of dirty oil to drain out, leaving very little dirty oil on the floor of the oil pan.
John Taylor indeed I had the cap vented for better air flow, and the car is jacked so the drain hole is the lowest point. For oil on the gasket, that’s a fair point; there really isn’t a difference at the end of the day, and I’ve never found leakage at the gasket when using old oil. On draining the oil, I typically see everything drain out in about 20 minutes (including the last strand of film), so getting out as much as possible!
Failed to mention: Thanks for the video. I enjoy seeing ppl enjoy doing stuff with their cars, especially if it's stuff on a car I own. My Focus has over 200K miles and the only problems I've had are: 1) windshield wipers do not return to proper rest place after I shut them off, 2) rear driver's side window suddenly decided not to work., and 3) valve cover gasket sprung an ever-so-slight leak, which had me replace the gasket. Otherwise, it's fine.
I should mention, the Focus does NOT like high speed on very hot days. Mine quit on me with the engine light coming on while doing 70 mph crossing the Mojave Desert at noon; outside air temp over 100 F. I let it cool down and she started right up again, but I learned never to run fast on hot days...the old Focus doesn't like it.
Tip #2 is a good one but the other 2 are splitting hairs and will make no discernible difference in the life of your engine.
@@stevemccooleq #3 will reduce the life span as it will ensure the engine starts as dry as possible lol.
@@stevemccooleq Wrong. Granted, #1 is rarely used except by a perfectionist, but #3 by its very nature will ensure very little crud is left inside the pan thus guaranteeing near-pristine oil at startup. Even a slight bit of crud in your system will wear away the best of engines over time.