Buck, I too am a DYI backyard wrench with a few more years under my belt. My suggestion to you would be ; before you go through rebuilding the carb and all the messing with spark plugs, Why not after you first take them out, take a compression test on each cylinder and compare. Also to test for one bad plug, just switch them to see if it gets hot on the other side. I have a John Deere with the same engine. My loss of power problem is the choke is incorrect and I can't seem to find anyone who has the same set up. It only has ONE cable operating both the throttle and choke but the choke linkage does not line up with the carb like to properly operate the choke. I don't know if someone has replaced the carb with a similar model having the choke link in a different format.
Thanks for the tips, Jerry. I learned a lot in this process. Next time will be easier as a result. I hope you can figure out your choke linkage situation. Good luck, and thanks for the note.
Nice work, I'd put a rod in it, way cheaper than a new mower and they're close to junk already, love to see the repairs if that's what you decide to do
Spark, compression, fuel. This is the diagnosis path i would always take on any ICE. Since it would seem that it is a broken rod, i would really want to rip it open to see how it can run without clanking and eating itself from broken metal parts. I had an issue where the motor had no compression. Found out it was a failed plastic cam gear that Kohler uses. Yes plastic. $50 replacement cam gear (metal) and it was back in action.
This is very interesting. I have a 2004 from new Honda v twin OHC ride on mower . Was going to one cynlinder regularly. After weeks of futering. (That's a Ulster Scots term) . It is now going to 1 cylinder under load ONLY now. I have spent a considerable length of time getting it to run on two cynlinders up to this point, working on the carb. But I am now at a loss. It starts fine but if put under load with drive train occasionally and every time going into grass it goes onto one cynlinder. Stop it and it starts fine again?. Any thoughts?
Yes, very interesting. Of course, as you can see in my video (and the subsequent teardown video I did) that the problem was mechanical damage inside the engine. Sounds like your problem is related to either fuel or ignition, and if I had to guess, it'll be an ignition issue, not a carburetor problem. Please let me know what you discover. Good luck.
My thought is that a carburetor problem would impact both cylinders, not just one, as they both share the same carburetor. So if you've given your carburetor an examination and cleaning, but still have problems, I'd be thinking more about a possible ignition issue. That's my thought, for what it's worth, which may not be much....
Wow just got mine back from the shop it does the same thing . And I just had the shaft seal replaced to . Man I hope its not that . Wow but the its doing the same things yours is and it was was just in the shop at a tune of 977.00 to
You can lose a cylinder for simpler reasons than just mechanical damage. Could be a bad spark plug, or a bad ignition coil. Test those things before doing a complete freak out! Good luck.
Thanks, Patrick. I'll tell you what I've done. In the video, I reference another engine I had laying around....same engine, just a few years newer. It checked out alright, so I swapped engines and got the tractor running fine again. I'm sure someday I'll get around to tearing that old engine apart. We'll see.....
Great video!!! If it was mine,,,, I would try to fix it if the rest of the mower is in OK condition. The OLD MOWERS ARE BUILT MUCH BETTER..... the new mowers are about $2000 and up.. today's mowers are built so CHEAPLY and are junk. That old one was built to last for a very long time. You will be lucky to get 5 to 6 years on a NEW MOWER before it starts giving you PROBLEMS. Like I said if it was me I would replace motor easiest way or rebuild it
Thanks, Rick. In the video, I reference another engine I had laying around....same engine, just a few years newer. It checked out alright, so I swapped engines and got the tractor running fine again. I'm sure someday I'll get around to tearing that old engine apart. We'll see.....
I would open it up and if it’s only a connecting rod, I would attempt to replace it. If not, be on the look out for at least a 18-20HP Intek for $50-$80 and stick it on there.
The plugs had me thinking bad intake valve on 2. Definitely not a carb. Fuel issue would affect both cylinders. I would look for a used engine. Well worth a couple hundred bucks to save a few thousand.
Thanks, Larry. I ended up replacing the engine with a used one that had been given to me. I used some parts off the original engine....starter, muffler, intake manifold, etc. Tractor owner was pleased with the renewed power again. Not sure how long he had been running it on one cylinder for him.... Thanks again.
Id try to fix it if the parts didn't cost to much. Good learning curve, plus if it was unfixable. I would mow with it until the other cylinder let go. Just thank goodness its not a much newer and much more costly mower
Almost similar problem here on a brand new machine (Ride-on/Lawn Tractor) However it is intermittent, sometimes goes single - lots of banging and farting, & sometimes sweet on 2. Swapping plugs over swaps the misiring cylinder.! I plead guilty of pinching one plug fpr another B&S single cyl 360cc, and puttying a 360cc single type plug in the twin. Not happy! And that "Crook" plug works fine in another B&S single (Push mower) Musical plugs later I prove they are all OK, but the twin likes its correct plug. Better get a correct type new pair and stop stuffing about! I suspect B&S singles now have suppressor resistors built in to the plugs, and the V twins do not. AaaarrrrrgggH!
@@Buckwsr Yep, got a new pair yesteray & put them in, Bingo! I couldn't conveniently rescue the plug I filched - The 360cc B&S it is in is a fire pump, and stranded on high ground behind a flood. In SE Australia these valleys are very wet right now. Cheers Buck.
I would price a modern engine if cheap enough. Otherwise get a new mower. Other parts on the mower are ancient also so I would get a newer mower. They aren’t that expensive. Not like cars now.
We decided to swap out the engine with a slightly newer one I had on hand. It's running on both cylinders now, ha ha, and so hopefully we'll get a little more life out of this tractor. Thank you!
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Good video. Nice walk-through of the troubleshooting process. That problem wasn't where I initially thought you'd end up.
Yep, pretty surprising outcome. Thanks for watching.
The shroud tin is missing on cylinder of the first plug you pulled out. If it ran like that, it would have overheated and caused some damage.
I’m very surprised it running at all and he was still mowing with it
Strange things happen in the mechanic shop
Yes take it apart asap
Let’s see it
Buck, I too am a DYI backyard wrench with a few more years under my belt. My suggestion to you would be ; before you go through rebuilding the carb and all the messing with spark plugs, Why not after you first take them out, take a compression test on each cylinder and compare. Also to test for one bad plug, just switch them to see if it gets hot on the other side.
I have a John Deere with the same engine. My loss of power problem is the choke is incorrect and I can't seem to find anyone who has the same set up. It only has ONE cable operating both the throttle and choke but the choke linkage does not line up with the carb like to properly operate the choke. I don't know if someone has replaced the carb with a similar model having the choke link in a different format.
Thanks for the tips, Jerry. I learned a lot in this process. Next time will be easier as a result. I hope you can figure out your choke linkage situation. Good luck, and thanks for the note.
Bucks small engineer DY. Una explicacion muy detallada gracias por TU video
Mil gracias por ver el video! Y por comentar!
@@Buckwsr is my pleasure!!!
Good video i working a john deer tractor with same problem , boogs down when blades are enguage , so now i know where to look thanks
GREAT VIDEO
Thanks!
Nice work, I'd put a rod in it, way cheaper than a new mower and they're close to junk already, love to see the repairs if that's what you decide to do
Thanks so much. I might get around to doing that, maybe over the winter when things slow down. Thanks for watching the video!
Great video. Go Flyers!
Thank you!
Spark, compression, fuel. This is the diagnosis path i would always take on any ICE.
Since it would seem that it is a broken rod, i would really want to rip it open to see how it can run without clanking and eating itself from broken metal parts. I had an issue where the motor had no compression. Found out it was a failed plastic cam gear that Kohler uses. Yes plastic. $50 replacement cam gear (metal) and it was back in action.
Yeah, I figured it out eventually. I have another video showing what I found when I opened it up. Thanks!
Good vedio!!!!!!!!!yes open it up
This is very interesting. I have a 2004 from new Honda v twin OHC ride on mower . Was going to one cynlinder regularly. After weeks of futering. (That's a Ulster Scots term) . It is now going to 1 cylinder under load ONLY now. I have spent a considerable length of time getting it to run on two cynlinders up to this point, working on the carb. But I am now at a loss. It starts fine but if put under load with drive train occasionally and every time going into grass it goes onto one cynlinder. Stop it and it starts fine again?. Any thoughts?
Yes, very interesting. Of course, as you can see in my video (and the subsequent teardown video I did) that the problem was mechanical damage inside the engine. Sounds like your problem is related to either fuel or ignition, and if I had to guess, it'll be an ignition issue, not a carburetor problem. Please let me know what you discover. Good luck.
@@Buckwsr All sparks functioning correctly...... intermittently???
My thought is that a carburetor problem would impact both cylinders, not just one, as they both share the same carburetor. So if you've given your carburetor an examination and cleaning, but still have problems, I'd be thinking more about a possible ignition issue. That's my thought, for what it's worth, which may not be much....
Wow just got mine back from the shop it does the same thing . And I just had the shaft seal replaced to . Man I hope its not that . Wow but the its doing the same things yours is and it was was just in the shop at a tune of 977.00 to
You can lose a cylinder for simpler reasons than just mechanical damage. Could be a bad spark plug, or a bad ignition coil. Test those things before doing a complete freak out! Good luck.
Go ahead and fix it. Those older Briggs and Stratton engines are worth fixing. 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔👍🏿
Thanks, Patrick. I'll tell you what I've done. In the video, I reference another engine I had laying around....same engine, just a few years newer. It checked out alright, so I swapped engines and got the tractor running fine again. I'm sure someday I'll get around to tearing that old engine apart. We'll see.....
@@Buckwsr I look forward to seeing the video of you swapping engines. 👍🏿😊
For the knowledge of this situation, l would like to see the in side of the engine.
I’m thinking jet stopped up but make sure piston is moving
I guess you left your comment prior to watching the full video....
The number one cylinder is the one furthest from the seat
Great video!!! If it was mine,,,, I would try to fix it if the rest of the mower is in OK condition. The OLD MOWERS ARE BUILT MUCH BETTER..... the new mowers are about $2000 and up.. today's mowers are built so CHEAPLY and are junk. That old one was built to last for a very long time. You will be lucky to get 5 to 6 years on a NEW MOWER before it starts giving you PROBLEMS. Like I said if it was me I would replace motor easiest way or rebuild it
Thanks, Rick. In the video, I reference another engine I had laying around....same engine, just a few years newer. It checked out alright, so I swapped engines and got the tractor running fine again. I'm sure someday I'll get around to tearing that old engine apart. We'll see.....
I just got done doing one l would rebuild it.
I would open it up and if it’s only a connecting rod, I would attempt to replace it. If not, be on the look out for at least a 18-20HP Intek for $50-$80 and stick it on there.
I would change the connecting rod
The plugs had me thinking bad intake valve on 2. Definitely not a carb. Fuel issue would affect both cylinders. I would look for a used engine. Well worth a couple hundred bucks to save a few thousand.
Thanks, Larry. I ended up replacing the engine with a used one that had been given to me. I used some parts off the original engine....starter, muffler, intake manifold, etc. Tractor owner was pleased with the renewed power again. Not sure how long he had been running it on one cylinder for him.... Thanks again.
Id try to fix it if the parts didn't cost to much. Good learning curve, plus if it was unfixable. I would mow with it until the other cylinder let go. Just thank goodness its not a much newer and much more costly mower
I would rebuild it. Hope the owner gives you the ok to do it
Thanks, Gragg!
Take it as a challenge leave out the money the education is more than money especially for a friend ,he will now know your his friend
The first thing I would have done after checking for spark is take a compression test, that would of showed you your problem.
Yes, thank you. Next time I'll be ready!
Take it apart and fix it
Tear it down and check for damage. If not bad replace neede parts. Great learning experience!
Its worth fixing I think I would repair it but if it was mine or given to me it would be worth it
I put a replacement engine in the tractor, and it's running great. The broken engine is still sitting here on my bench....
I would have to get a used motor for it
Yes, I ended up replacing the motor with a used one.
Almost similar problem here on a brand new machine (Ride-on/Lawn Tractor) However it is intermittent, sometimes goes single - lots of banging and farting, & sometimes sweet on 2. Swapping plugs over swaps the misiring cylinder.! I plead guilty of pinching one plug fpr another B&S single cyl 360cc, and puttying a 360cc single type plug in the twin. Not happy! And that "Crook" plug works fine in another B&S single (Push mower) Musical plugs later I prove they are all OK, but the twin likes its correct plug. Better get a correct type new pair and stop stuffing about! I suspect B&S singles now have suppressor resistors built in to the plugs, and the V twins do not. AaaarrrrrgggH!
A new set of sparkplugs, well, that's an easy fix, right?
@@Buckwsr Yep, got a new pair yesteray & put them in, Bingo! I couldn't conveniently rescue the plug I filched - The 360cc B&S it is in is a fire pump, and stranded on high ground behind a flood. In SE Australia these valleys are very wet right now. Cheers Buck.
I would price a modern engine if cheap enough. Otherwise get a new mower. Other parts on the mower are ancient also so I would get a newer mower. They aren’t that expensive. Not like cars now.
We decided to swap out the engine with a slightly newer one I had on hand. It's running on both cylinders now, ha ha, and so hopefully we'll get a little more life out of this tractor. Thank you!
get a used engine