Logitech shifter mod - Get better shifter feel
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- Tired of a "loose" shifter. Add a little more tension on that spring and you'll never look back... just don't loose the spring
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![3DRAP Logitech MOD Cambio V3.5 [REVIEW] 🌟STRONGER and more REALISTIC feeling shifts!🌟](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TRV7kGv-a94/mqdefault.jpg)
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For those interested, credit to Josh, it’s an M3 socket head cap screw/bolt. Recommended 10mm in length
Is there going to be more ressistance if I get a 12mm Bolt?
Edit(in length)
@@corvy2823 No. Only the size of the cap is providing the added resistance. The screw part only keeps it in place. Too much won’t fit. Too little won’t stay in place so well. Also recommend filing down the screw threads so they don’t get caught in the spring. Very simple mod and worth it
@@proud90skid15 thanks! Do you have any suggestions for a Bolt that could provide bigger restsistance?
@@corvy2823 you’re welcome. I don’t, nor would I recommend anything too big. The added resistance is subtle but noticeable and worth it. The plastic innards of the shifter might not be able to withstand all the extra forces if the resistance becomes too high. You could add a tiny 3m nut to the screw to add a little more resistance but you’ll most likely have to file down the corners of the nut so that it fits inside the small canal where the spring goes.
You're a life safer. I wanted to 3D print a spacer but I couldn't find the measurements. Based on what you told me, I found it's about 5.5mm in diameter and about 3mm in height. Appreciate it.
Man I watched probably a dozen shifter mod videos and 3d printed several different mods that only lasted a few races before I came across this. Your bolt spacer mod is by far the best solution. That extra 2-3mm of spring tension makes a world of difference for the feel of the shifter. Well done.
For anyone wondering on the size of bolt, I used a 4mm x 25mm hex bolt, chucked it into my drill and ground the head round until it matched the outside diameter of the spring, then I ground the threads down smooth so they wouldn't interfere with the spring travel, and cut off the excess to about half the length of the spring. I used a bench grinder, but you could spin it on some sandpaper and it would work just the same, it would just take longer.
Thanks man!! Glad to hear it's worked for you.
And bolt sizes, I had no idea what I used, just literally tried from a scraps bin until something fit 😂😂
This is by far the greatest g29 shifter mod that I have found. This just works, thanks so much for posting this, saved me buying a different shifter
glad to hear its helped man!!
This mod works so good, just did mine (m3*10 bolt) and it feels clicky like my shortshifter in my real car :)
Greetings from Austria
glad to hear it dude!! yeah as good as the shifter mods feel that you can buy online, they just wear out to quickly. yet to feel and wear on this one now
I ended up finding a small computer screw (possibly for a mobo) that fit into the shaft. Since you're essentially looking for a bit more compression by shortening the length of the spring, the tiny head of the screw was thick enough to work. Feels great and snappy, cheers!
its really all thats needed, a proper way would be to find a similar size spring with a stiffer spring rate buuut good luck with hunting that down. so yeah best option was to just add more preload tension on it. glad to hear its worked man!!
this was a banger subway, love watching mods to logi wheels
Thanks man!! Glad you enjoy them
awesome trick. you can honestly use anything to preload the spring, the bolt is a perfect object though. Also, dont freak out if your shifter stops working. I thought i broke mine but turns out the sensor on the right side was loose and i just twisted it slightly until it was tight again. but definitely be careful when handling the sensors and wires.
be prepared to get alot of grease on your hands. the ball and spring are finicky and the ball can shoot out and get lost easily when you disassemble.
yeah anything really to put more preload on it, eve better if you just have a similar size spring thats a bit stiffer, but definitely dont want to loose the ball. thats a harder one to replace
Nice mod mate, I found someone commented to do something similar under a video from the guys advertising the solid 3D printed block instead of the spring, their solution was to use one of the 6 bolts which holds the metal shifter base assembly to the plastic, however I just used another screw with a similar head, but shorter length, I wanna say M3x10 bolt, either way, it worked perfectly fine for me, it will feel a bit weird at first but once the ball bearing spring settles, it adds a nice amount of resistance without being too over the top.
I first added a 3D printed mod into the shifter, but it made too much noise when shifting. Removed it and added a screw like you showed in your video. Great mod! Thanks!!
Yeah I've had the 3d printed ones as well and as good as they feel, the noise from them was my issue particularly for recording. Although they did feel a little better. Haven't tried any of the "new" stuff yet from companies so maybe things have changed
Just came up with my own lil method that feels really nice, after not being able to find any spacers even at my hardware store.
End of a Q tip, with a little bit of tape wrapped around. So that some of the Q tip pole goes upside the spring, same as in the video to keep it centered. but the spring sits on a lil bed of squished up of tape and Qtip fiber thats shoved Inside the round plasic housing the spring lives in. and adds some extra length to the spring, and since its nice and squishy, it doesnt feel anywhere NEAR as clunky as those crappy plastic spacers u bought. all it fits without any tape, the spring actually sits at the widest bit of q tip, but you know those fibers alone wouldnt last long. Tape makes it thicker, taller and longer lasting. And "custom" sized
Only need a 1 or two tiny wraps of sparky tape around the tip. cut in half in thin, long strips was perfect width for me. for the spring to sit ON, to add length. And you KNOW it wont damage anything because the squish will absorb all the force of hard/fast shifts, unlike that plastic spacer, which is just creating a whole bunch of tension and force that has to be spread to other parts of the shifter.
GREAT VIDEO
I did this with my Logitech shifter after trying a bunch of different 3D printed mods.
They all mask the underlying problem that is the under-loaded ball detent you showed.
It can be scary to pull something like this apart, but this was the surefire way to improve feel on the shifter permanently.
I provided mine 2.5mm of preload and that did great. I would almost say go to 3mm.
2.5 is probably on t though, i think the issue then if you go to much, with some much extra pressure it car wear it away faster as well
Thank you very much about this trick. I tried it and it improved it a 100%. Keep up the good work. No more noddle shifting.
I did the same thing yesterday with the a bolt head worked great now there's more of a preload it's a bit fiddly to put back toghter with all the tension but just don't lose patience and don't lose the little ball bearing XD
iv watched all your mod videos back to backk cheers to me ; )
I was on a mission to figure this tension issue out with a old g25 shifter I had laying around.
What I discovered was, the metal brackets spread apart with force instead of compressing the rubber as the mod is intended. It builds up of energy that suddenly releases which is what makes it feel "clunky"
All you need to do is fashion a couple flat metal braces to attach to the top of the metal brackets on the inside to keep them from moving. You can even use existing holes on the brackets.
Do this an it will feel much much better.
Result is the exact same amount of force shifting out of gear as shifting in gear.
Aren't the New brackets going to collie with fhe knob?
@@corvy2823 Still below the knob. The added brackets also act as a stop of sorts with the shifter rod itself but did not interfere with the normal shift movement. I even added an aftermarket knob that was bigger than original.
@@joshriver75 oohh i get how it looks now, can you tell how much in kgs the shift force is
@@corvy2823 I have never tried to figure that out and don't think I have a proper tool to measure it.
I will make a short video showing what it looks like and demonstrate the operation in the next couple days and respond back after i upload it.
If I had to describe it I would say the force is very comparable to a real manual on a modern economy car.
@@joshriver75 waiting for that vid. To mesure the ressistsnce you just need a bagage weighing scale
I used the m2 drive screw spacer that came with my motherboard as I had a spare. Works like a charm, and has the same feel as my NB miata shifter.
How good!! Have always heard about how nice the shifter feels in a Miata as well. Glad to hear it's helped
I've just did that, you're a genius and so @thatbrokegamer!
is the screw ur talking about the m.2 standoff you screw into your motherboard?
@@k24brx I think he is, it's the one that goes into the motherboard and then we put the m2ssd on top with another male screw.
Thanks for this. Great video with before and after effect.
Hell yeah man , I'm gonna try this out over the week sometime! Hello from the goldy :)
good luck with it!! yeah it was just by chance i found this little bolt aha. but pretty much anything you can put under the spring that about 1/5th of its length should really improve the feel of it. its just finding something that fits into there
@@thatbrokegamer. i have a ton of loose bolts in my stash from other things just going through it now and i may a couple of potential ones to test out when get under the hood of the shifter
@@ZeliusDev sounds good dude, keep me updated with how you go!!
I think this mod you guys figured out combined with the 3drap mod using a steel top plate will be perfect. Just that it may get expensive to keep replacing the 3drap rubber friction piece every few months or so.
@@hughs8447 yeah the 3drap ones feel amazing!! I've used a few variations of theirs. Just unfortunate that 3d printed frictional part doesn't take abuse well long term
This works great!
£2 for 4 bolts from ebay (m3 x 10mm, only need 1)
Thanks dude 👍
all good! glad to hear its worked
I have the same mod it actually loosens up a little after 2 or so hours of use mine feels perfect now 👌
Mine too feels a lot better once it bedded in
Use locktite 😂
Yeah i did this a while back, used a .177 bb ball with a small screw on top to go in behind the spring.
whatever works and puts more preload on it
Couldnt find any long m3 scew, so I just used a really short pan head screw as a pre-load to spring. It got a little stiffer. I think hexbolt woulda work the best.
I bought an m3 10mm bolt like people said and I put it in there with the spring, and the ball bearing kept flying out. The spring got bent and now I don’t know what to do. The bolt I got is smaller than the spring so it was a bit loose
might be able to get a new spring from a hardware store, they might even have something thats stiffer anyway and do the same thing
That must’ve been a Ford Ranger shifter mod because that’s how it is shifting mine
Anyone struggling to find a piece to fit inside the spring, I spent hours tryna find something with enough decent size - head to give a decent preload, In the end I made one myself by shaving a wooden dowel into the shape and size I needed lol…also for any newer batches from Logitech the cable that you unplug is glued down to the plastic housing and it’s very tricky to free the cable without damaging it, again, be patient, oh and Incase anyone is wondering. It makes a huge difference🔥🔥. #TeamMod#FckkWarrenty
Yeah honestly anything that you can put into there as a spacer to put more preload on the spring works. I just got lucky and happen to have the bolt
I actually used a dowel for about 5 minutes, then realized after apart again(cos i messed up and didnt connect something) i thought about the soft dowel wearing out over time and creating a soft bed of mushy wood in the hole, and thought about making a new thing, more squishy on purpose.
Now i use a Q tip end with tape wrapped around the end the make it thick enough for the spring to sit ON in the hole, not just over it. and adds a nice amount of extra length to the spring that FEELS awesome. Not clunky like the plastic spacer in video
Just figured out you can stretch the spring out also I accidentally did this while trying and it actually worked I might have stretched just a tad bit but it’s 100 times better
yeah anything to add more pressure on that ball really without having it jam completely up
Yoooooo...I didn't have any M3 screws, only M4 and felt too lazy to go down to the hardware store.
But that's not an issue, since all this does is add pre-load to the spring, I just rolled a thick piece of paper into a tube roughly the diameter of the spring hole and jammed it in before the spring.
I initially cut around 1 cm or ~1/2 in. roll but it was impossible to re-assemble for me. The tension on the spring was just too high, I spent a good 30 minutes fiddling around with it, all covered in grease, and ultimately decided to cut the roll down to about half length.
It worked wonders, the tension is much improved, the feel is improved and at the same time I feel like if I were to go for my original length roll, it would feel too stiff and unnatural similar to exchanging the whole spring for a solid block of plastic (I think 3drap have that as a mod lol) so yay.
yea thanks for this, ended up just jamming a tiny ball of paper then inserted a spring. janky af but it works.
heck yeah!! anything to "stiffen" the spring feel so theres more tension on that ball. and yes, ive played with a couple versions from them and they've all been pretty good, havent tried any of the latest ones though
My shifter feel so much better
glad to hear its worked!!
Will petg solid piece works? Do you use a pla piece previously? I heard petg is a little softer so it could probably works like a tough rubber
hey where i can get this small thing to put it into the spring?
What height is shifter knob ?
Love the music man
Really didn't
I did this and now my 2nd gear is acting as 3rd and no other gears register… my shifter was brand new 😢
I had this issue on my G29 shifter when the wiring came loose. Check the white plug near the base of the shifter and make sure its connected properly. I had to superglue mine down because it kept wanting to unplug itself and the loose connection caused all sorts of weird in-game behavior.
@@krudmuphinstudioz Yeah i’ve that works for a lot of people and seems to be on of the most problematic areas in the shifter but I couldn’t get it to work, gladly logitech sent another one out within the week so all is well, thank you for the tips :)
@@SyTrades Logitech sent me a replacement one too that I haven't opened for a year.... until today... because I tried went to do this screw mod to my shifter and accidentally broke one of the potentiometers on the base :( I think I can fix it, but in the meantime I had to open and use my brand new spare shifter, haha
Nice video man could u plz send all the measurements of the bolt cause I’ve got this lathe to make it with so I could be pretty nice if I could get them :)
i wouldnt have a clue on the measurements or have anything to measure it accurately (only got something that does cm) sorry dude. it just happened to be a bolt in a container of leftovers that looked like it could work
It fine i still appreciate the video keep it up
@@thatbrokegamer. It's an M3 Socket Head/Cap Bolt/Screw that fits perfectly where the shaft sits in the spring and the head outside of the spring. M2 & M4 will not work.
Maximum length probably 15-20mm, I used a 10mm but less would work fine.
@@JoshManMate thank you sir. This is very helpful. I’m going to repost so it’s on the main thread to help others out
This is exactly what i said 1 video ago when i first saw this mod!
its a handy one to do, so far given the best feel
Does the ball sit on the bolt or on the spring still ?
Mine stopped working can you tell me maybe y
check the connection under the wheel where it plugs in, i gotta press mine back in from time to time
Dear ThatBrokeGamer, I also have the Custom Sim Shop improvement spring, which is basically just a 3d printed ball bearing. It is WAY too stiff after testing. I don't have any suitable bolts lying around to act as a spring pre-load, so I was thinking to cut the custom sim shop plastic piece down to half an inch or less, then epoxy glue it to the stock spring. Do you think this is a good idea?
Yeah that's what I was going to do as well aha, but figured I'd see what I've got laying around first otherwise that was my other plan was to cut that piece to use as the spacer instead. The little bolt I've got. The head bit that the spring sits on is roughly 1/5th the length of the spring. So start off with 1/4 and sand down a little if needed
I think I have a better idea. I will just use epoxy to cover 50% or more of the stock spring. Already letting the epoxy dry.
@@hughs8447 I get what you mean. But you wouldn't be taking adding any pre load of the spring really and taking away it's effective compression as well.
Yes, there will be much less conpression which will make it much stiffer than stock. I also added maybe 1/4 to 1/3" epoxy to the end with a "u" shape to hold the ball in place. I think it will work. I'll post back here my results for anyone interested. :)
@@hughs8447 yeah I just don't know how it would work fixing a certain part of the spring because it's still going to be the same length. But definitely keep me updated with how it goes
hi guy, what kind of screw is that? small allen?
its a very good idea, greetings
yeah little allen key one from memory
tf is that wheel fr
forget the shifter what is that wheel
needed something different because my old deep dish one fell apart
@@thatbrokegamer. who uses conventional steering wheels when you can just use a Macalister saw?
@@jezzaclarkson1028 not exactly sure what the relevance is with a saw blade and a steering wheel but sure
What RC car did you get that screw from
wouldnt have a clue, was just in my box of spares bits for them
Is that wheel out of a clown car? Yikes