Take a vice grip... add a point or weld a point onto each jaw... clamp the grip on your panel and it'll mark both sides with a dimple... sand where the dimple is 51:00 instead of sanding off all of that..... swarf.... aren't you going to have to grind thr plug welds anyway? Just weld and then grind/sand
Glad to see you chose the 120 volt version of the spot welder. “Many”, if not “most” DIY garage builders have only a 120 volt outlet source in their garages.
You can thank the collision damage that no one would touch, Derek, and everyone else who did not scrap what was a save able car. You are the right person for this job. Also, you are a great educator. Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
I absolutely love the fact that you took the time,money,and labor to save and bring this car back to life and give it another chance when anyone else would have sent it to the junkyard. You kick ass Kevin!
Indeed!! Especially us in the rust belt, we appreciate you guys saving these cars long after most of the ones around here have turned to dust. I can't wait to see the 300zx
Kevin, we have used one of those Harbor Freight spot welders before & hung it from an engine hoist. Much easier than man handling 30 pounds around a panel!
@@paintucation At my shop I put a rope over a truss in the ceiling, big carabiner on one side, tie off the other side to something heavy. I welded a hook to an I-beam.
I've always heard and called the sharp, ragged edges made by any type of cutting called "burrs". Even cutting plastic can leave a burr. It doesn't have to cut you be be one. As a retired machinist of 40+ years, I probably still have slivers of steel in my hands somewhere. Sweet little spot welder. If I thought I'd be using it a lot, I'd get one. I got one of those stud welders years ago and only have used it a couple times. Congrats on getting the trunk floor in. LOTS of welding...
Thank you! And I'm stoked FOR you. All your work fitting and refitting comes to fruition. It was fascinating learning about the spot welding. Laughed out loud at "Last time, awkward, awkward". Sorry I'm late (as usual) but I did finish my flooring project and then my OCD kicked in and I had to reorganize my battery operated tool storage and charging (I have no idea why, it just happens). See you Tuesday sir, have a great weekend ~ Chuck
Kevin, Thanks for taking us along for the ride. I appreciate your willingness to show the detail and the mistakes. I enjoy watching the videos since I don’t have the car, money, tools and skills to do a project like this. Keep up the great work!
Your the man Kevin been following for year's from all platforms and shows over the years and this one is by far my favorite. What your doing is entertaining and very educational. Even inspirational to some of us watching that are building projects at home. Got me to start my project back up and it feels good. Thank you and please continue to do what you do, I'll surely be watching💪
I know I'll get some pushback on this but for years I have removed the Ecoat where the seam is, painted with weld through primer and just hit it with the mig with no hole. It bonds to both sides if the mig is adjusted for the width of both panels and dissimilar thicknesses can be welded together great. Never failed at the weld and super easy to do!
It’s good to get excited about a build. I could tell that you were in the zone. Unfortunately, I tend to forget something or make a mistake when things get exciting. Thanks for the video. Keep them coming!
I have a heavy spot-welder as well. I was looking into a spring balancer. Hang it from a gantry or an engine hoist. I love what your doing. From a fellow Canadian.
Eastwood used to have a spot welder that was powered by your existing arc welder. You grounded the work area the same way as any electrical welder requires. The electrode holder clamped on the cable to a pistol grip carbon rod spot welder. You drilled a smaller plug weld hole, centered the business end of the spot weld gun over your hole and used the trigger to raise and lower the carbon rod, initiating and terminating the molten spot. You could keep pressure against the top panel in the lap to keep it from opening a gap. I had one but it was forgotten when i started using my mig for plug welds. This video tells me I should dig it out and give it a second chance.
Kevin, I bought my spot welder from USA weld it way better than that harbor freight one. It is more expensive, but you can get an assortment of tips to do a lot more.
One other thing with spot welders, it is good practice to do test pieces before and after doing any welding, with the same gauge / coating of metal you will be welding, do 3 spot welds, then check they pull a plug of metal. The idea being if the test before shows a good weld, and the test after shows a good weld, then it is likely all the ones in-between will be good. If the one before is bad, you can check the settings until you get a good weld, if the one after is bad, well you know, those welds could be bad and you can fix them!
My dad and I restored a 74 Blazer that was so bad we needed a rotisserie and bracing to hold the body together. Having one of those for certain parts of that project made it a little easier.
Looking good 🎉 I have used a 3” scotch bright wheel on a pneumatic cut off tool for metal prep. I thought it made better welds. The metal flows together better 🎉
Hey Kevin, a big fan for many years. I have all your DVDs before I went to trade school and after keep watching them keep learning I really love this channel. You started and I really love the fact that you’ve answered the question. I’ve had a long time about spot welding with that spot welder that you bought fromHarbor freight getting ready to get mines right after the holiday. I’m working on a Chevelle. Can’t wait to get cracking on it. I’m freezing up here in the east though anyway happy holidays to you thank you for the great channel. Great work and I hope you keep doing it because I can’t wait to see more. Take care.
Another great video, Kevin. I remember the last time I finally sat the trunk pan in my 72. That's a great feeling. I have been wanting to try a spot welder!
I put factory quarters on a 67 camaro 30 years ago and spot welded right through the E-coat, no problem. I used a similar spot welder to what you used.
Back in 1974 when your Camaro was built they used uncoated steel panels and they were held in indexable welding jigs and humans spot welded them together. That'd why you have the uneven spacing of the welds. Later in the 1980s they began to go to coil coated steels that used weldable primers and welding robots started to takeover and you had evenly spaced spot welds. What you need to comfortably use your spot welder is a spring loaded tool balancer either hanging from an above mounted trolly or in the case of a small shop a cherry picker. You set the balancer to zero force and it takes up the weight of the tools so you don't have to.
See.... This is exactly what I hope for when I try something out of my comfort zone. Obviously you've got experience with this, I love the learning curve! I'll probably never do what you're talking about, but I know that I've got a bunch to learn on this and it is invigorating! Thanks very much for your comment man.
@@TheZachVideo The LT Meant "Luxury Touring" The interior was a bit different. The door panels were padded vs plastic in 72, not sure about later years.
I've heard of people using it through panel Bond as well, several oe's mandate welds at the corners on a larger panel even if it's not a structural repair. I will definitely try it through panel Bond and test it
Kevin love your new series I have a 72 SS with the Rallysport option which I pretty much have to do the same body panel replacements except the roof panel I hope.I have been watching every episode to see what I’m getting my self into I Ain’t scared 😮
Real eye opening coverage of the spot welder and EDM with shunt pliers wow nice. @inerlogic had a neat suggestion on vice grip mod to help mark positions. Excellent session, Thanks again for your generous sharing through videos
Nice job! Info on the e-Coat was great. 2 more weeks and you're done 😁? Ever thought of having Chip Foose draw you up a finished rendition of this Camaro?
One of the old LENCO panel spot welders would be very nice. Had a very old one that worked well..the catch was it ran on 220v/40 amps. Worked well though with access from just one side.
That shunt is cool if you're only using spot welder but the pannels that you need to do both you could mig weld one hole first then spot weld without having to clean a spot for the shunt
Hey Kevin, To locate both sides where you want to spot weld, use a tape measure on a reference you can see from both sides. Your jaws are just a copper bar threaded on one end and drilled and tapped on the other, with a bend. If you have a drill, tap and die, and a bender you can make any shape jaws you need. PS... You can suspend it from your cherry picker. Less work for your biceps.
I've wanted one of those for like 30+ years! So I bought one about 2 weeks ago. :D (Vevor, but I'm pretty sure it's out of the same factory - looks identical)
Ya owe me a beer 🤣I have to agree, spot welding is superior then plug welding with a MIG... BUT! you forgot to mention the rust and whats best for that steel. Always better to use flux core on rusty or dirty metal because the flux will pull all the oxides or junk into the slag. Another thing you should mentioned is not relying on "e-coat" as a rust inhibitor. Weld through primer would even do better then the "e-coat" because it will convert the area the heat was after.
Kevin, when I built my 67 Z28 I took a pair of vice grips and modified them so I could attach an insulating section and then and the tips out of a spot welder. I ran battery cables from the spot welder to the vice grips. They did not have a lot of reach but instead of trying to move around a "29#" spot welder I could just vice grip the edge and zap it for a couple seconds. The tough part was finding a material that would insulate and take heat. I dont remember what the material was but it worked great.
You said you said thanks for letting you know what we want to see and I've never done this not even with Derek I usually let you guys do what y'all want to do but I would like to see you restore AK or C10 Chevy pickup 70s to 80s model
Harley Davidson in York Pa. used to or still does E-coat the interior of their gas tanks. It was a crude process that involved sticking a pipe with a nozzle on the end through the gas fill hole and pulling the lever on the side causing the E-coat to spray. Nothing was metered. I watched it a couple times and shook my head. If the employee had a bad day with the company management, he would hold the lever open longer. This resulted in a lot of E-coat inside and before it cured, it would settle and often after the tank was sent to the other stages of manufacture, pieces would break off. Many chunks were thicker than 3/8” and larger than the gas fill opening. This was discovered through handling the tanks through the different stages prior to powder paint. The chunk(s) had to be broken up inside the tank for removal and than took a long punch , positioning and a hammer, giving it several solid wacks. Once removed it went through the other stages. This also restricted the flow of fuel out the botton of the tank, making the outlet hole smaller but that wwas never addressed. Management knew. Get-r-done and don't stop the assembly line. If you ever encounter a tank with epoxy pieces inside or restricted fuel flow, you'll know why.
You needed the 220v version welder so you could use larger diameter contact tips. Even if the reach allows you to get one side of the trunk floor frame rails those tiny welds will be kind of weak. I would prefer the zinc rich weld thru coating inside those lapped panel joints. The zinc is better for stopping corrosion from creeping in between panels. By all means preserve the e-coating everywhere else.
FYI: E-coat is different than Electrostatic Painting or Electroplating. E-coat, or electrocoating, is a painting process that uses an electrical current to apply a protective finish to a metal surface. It's also known as electrophoretic coating or electropainting.
E-coat is electrostatically applied with cathode -annode immersion. Unless I'm mistaken. I may interchange labels, but E-coat is typically immersion application.
@@paintucation Yes, e-coated panels sometimes have runs. This looks like the panels were dipped. The really high quality parts are usually smooth as glass.
Myself I used an old zip cut with a 1/8 thick wheel and work the center of the plug weld leaving with a dimple, after primer and paint, always made me satisfied. Just me
Im sure you know, but you can buy extra tongs, tips, etc on Amazon. They are pricey thoguh. I have the same spot welder, but in the 240v version. Worked great for thinner metal on the car. Like the trunk drop offs to trunk floor. Roof skin to under structure. Thats about it. At least what i found using it over my 71 camaro.
Just kind of a question...Since you usually have 2 to 4 alignment screws through the two panels, wouldn't that be enough contact so you wouldn't have to use the shunt OR do the plug welds first which should give you connectivity and then do the spot welds. That's a long question! Really enjoy watching what you do and happy that you are savings the cars!! 👍👌
I would like to see some texting with a larger diameter weld tip. I think the diameter of the tip you were using is very small. What size tips did GM use when they built these cars? Can you file your tip to match GM and see what the weld looks like? Thanks for doing this, I’m interested in buying one also. Love the channel!
This was a fun one to do! I'm a tool-junkie anyway, and i got to learn stuff!!! Thanks for watching!!
Kevin , if you can, keep an eye out for a miller spot welder with a timer, you can usually pick them up for cheap
Take a vice grip... add a point or weld a point onto each jaw... clamp the grip on your panel and it'll mark both sides with a dimple... sand where the dimple is
51:00 instead of sanding off all of that..... swarf.... aren't you going to have to grind thr plug welds anyway? Just weld and then grind/sand
Glad to see you chose the 120 volt version of the spot welder. “Many”, if not “most” DIY garage builders have only a 120 volt outlet source in their garages.
Instead of grinding paint off, can you hit it with weldable primer to carry your circuit?
@@keithknight2194 No, because the EDP coating is acting as an insulator for the bare steel. You need to have contact.
You can thank the collision damage that no one would touch, Derek, and everyone else who did not scrap what was a save able car. You are the right person for this job. Also, you are a great educator.
Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
Cheers mate! Thanks!
I absolutely love the fact that you took the time,money,and labor to save and bring this car back to life and give it another chance when anyone else would have sent it to the junkyard. You kick ass Kevin!
Indeed!! Especially us in the rust belt, we appreciate you guys saving these cars long after most of the ones around here have turned to dust. I can't wait to see the 300zx
Kevin, we have used one of those Harbor Freight spot welders before & hung it from an engine hoist. Much easier than man handling 30 pounds around a panel!
I never thought about that... That's a great idea!!!! Wow!!!!! Thank you!!
@@paintucation At my shop I put a rope over a truss in the ceiling, big carabiner on one side, tie off the other side to something heavy. I welded a hook to an I-beam.
Thank you for sharing the tips.
Ive been watching u for years. And let me tell u, ive learned alot from u, and want to thank u for helping me find my passion!
This is one of the most underrated channels on RUclips. So much good knowledge is shared by a legend
Thank you so much! Help me spread the word!!! 😁
@paintucation i share you're channel with anyone i meet who watches car content on RUclips!
Coffee and a KT video, good way to start a Saturday morning
That's the way to do it! good morning!
Or in my case… a Monday morning.
It is nice to see more new parts permanently attached to your project car.
I learn something from you all the time. I always thought the initial weld Flash, was the most critical time on your eyes! Thanks for your work!
I'm so glad to see this Camaro going back together.. and thanks for sharing your resistance welding experience with us.
This series has been my new favorite Saturday thing. Love that there is an hour of material
I love 2nd gen Camaro's and this channel. Keep it up Kevin!
I've always heard and called the sharp, ragged edges made by any type of cutting called "burrs". Even cutting plastic can leave a burr. It doesn't have to cut you be be one. As a retired machinist of 40+ years, I probably still have slivers of steel in my hands somewhere.
Sweet little spot welder. If I thought I'd be using it a lot, I'd get one. I got one of those stud welders years ago and only have used it a couple times.
Congrats on getting the trunk floor in. LOTS of welding...
Almost 90 plugs!!! I'm tired! Lol!
100% Burrs
Thank you! And I'm stoked FOR you. All your work fitting and refitting comes to fruition. It was fascinating learning about the spot welding. Laughed out loud at "Last time, awkward, awkward". Sorry I'm late (as usual) but I did finish my flooring project and then my OCD kicked in and I had to reorganize my battery operated tool storage and charging (I have no idea why, it just happens). See you Tuesday sir, have a great weekend ~ Chuck
Important lesson to knock off those burrs at 51:00. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks for watching!
Kevin,
Thanks for taking us along for the ride. I appreciate your willingness to show the detail and the mistakes. I enjoy watching the videos since I don’t have the car, money, tools and skills to do a project like this. Keep up the great work!
It was great seeing a spot welder in use.
thank you for being a friend........sorry couldnt resist during all your thank you s. Love the project.
thank you for sharing this with us. Can't wait to see your future progress on the old camaro.
Your the man Kevin been following for year's from all platforms and shows over the years and this one is by far my favorite. What your doing is entertaining and very educational. Even inspirational to some of us watching that are building projects at home. Got me to start my project back up and it feels good. Thank you and please continue to do what you do, I'll surely be watching💪
Thank you,!!! Please do all you can to help me grow this channel!!!
Glad to see panels being welded in now. Keep taking your time. Quality work takes time! Great video as always!
Thanks!!!! It's exciting to be at this stage!
That's the 1st time I've seen that pinch welder in use. Thank you for the demo, I think I'll go get it now.
Great video and I learned about the shunting pliers. I also used a HF spot welder for installing a quarter panel on my 72 Nova.
It's a really handy tool!
I used a resistance welder in high school. Fantastic tool.
Fun to see others getting somewhere on their projects since mine arent
Kevin, you always look like you have had just enough coffee, I love it
Glad I found you doing this, I have some of the exact same work on my 73 camaro that may be in worse shape!
I can't say enough good things about AMD metal... it's still alot of work, but it's easier with good panels.
I know I'll get some pushback on this but for years I have removed the Ecoat where the seam is, painted with weld through primer and just hit it with the mig with no hole. It bonds to both sides if the mig is adjusted for the width of both panels and dissimilar thicknesses can be welded together great. Never failed at the weld and super easy to do!
No resistance here .. fusion is fusion ... 👍
@paintucation Oh my Kevin that was quite appropriate!
Go Kev Go! So happy you are on the putting all together stage now!
Hey Keven you need a shoulder strap for that spot welder. I’m really enjoying the show!
It’s good to get excited about a build. I could tell that you were in the zone. Unfortunately, I tend to forget something or make a mistake when things get exciting. Thanks for the video. Keep them coming!
Amazing work Kev.! Congrats on the new tool
Appreciate that man!!!
Ok you just gave me an excuse to buy a new welding rig. Awesome video!!!
I KNOW!!!! Right? It's totally worth it, even though I can't get to half of the welds...
I have a heavy spot-welder as well. I was looking into a spring balancer. Hang it from a gantry or an engine hoist.
I love what your doing. From a fellow Canadian.
Thanks for taking us along on this project. I’d love to do it too just like you are doing it. It’s going to be awesome! ❤️😎
Thanks Rich!! Lots more episodes coming.
Kevin, I gotta tell you - these videos are a lot of fun to watch AND I even learn something. Including the importance of never stunting your shunting;
Don't stunt your shunt!!!! If at all possible stunt the shunt!!! Do it up front!🤣
Love the video content! Bringing back my highschool days!
Eastwood used to have a spot welder that was powered by your existing arc welder. You grounded the work area the same way as any electrical welder requires. The electrode holder clamped on the cable to a pistol grip carbon rod spot welder. You drilled a smaller plug weld hole, centered the business end of the spot weld gun over your hole and used the trigger to raise and lower the carbon rod, initiating and terminating the molten spot. You could keep pressure against the top panel in the lap to keep it from opening a gap. I had one but it was forgotten when i started using my mig for plug welds. This video tells me I should dig it out and give it a second chance.
That is very cool thanks. I learned something.
Hi Kevin, I would love to see more videos. I started watching after you were on VGG. Awesome content.
Kevin, I bought my spot welder from USA weld it way better than that harbor freight one. It is more expensive, but you can get an assortment of tips to do a lot more.
Thanks man, I'm looking at getting a better one.
She's heading in the right direction now!!!🎉
One other thing with spot welders, it is good practice to do test pieces before and after doing any welding, with the same gauge / coating of metal you will be welding, do 3 spot welds, then check they pull a plug of metal. The idea being if the test before shows a good weld, and the test after shows a good weld, then it is likely all the ones in-between will be good. If the one before is bad, you can check the settings until you get a good weld, if the one after is bad, well you know, those welds could be bad and you can fix them!
I never would have thought of getting one of these before seeing this. That's a cool tool! Thanks!
My dad and I restored a 74 Blazer that was so bad we needed a rotisserie and bracing to hold the body together. Having one of those for certain parts of that project made it a little easier.
Looking good 🎉 I have used a 3” scotch bright wheel on a pneumatic cut off tool for metal prep. I thought it made better welds. The metal flows together better 🎉
Hey Kevin, a big fan for many years. I have all your DVDs before I went to trade school and after keep watching them keep learning I really love this channel. You started and I really love the fact that you’ve answered the question. I’ve had a long time about spot welding with that spot welder that you bought fromHarbor freight getting ready to get mines right after the holiday. I’m working on a Chevelle. Can’t wait to get cracking on it. I’m freezing up here in the east though anyway happy holidays to you thank you for the great channel. Great work and I hope you keep doing it because I can’t wait to see more. Take care.
Thanks man!!! Thank you for your amazing support through all these years. I hope I do you proud on the channel. :-)
As usual! Great info bossman!
Appreciate that, man! We HAVE TO get together soon!!
That thing seems to work good and does some beautiful little rosette W Wales or spot Wales whatever you want to call them
Another great video, Kevin. I remember the last time I finally sat the trunk pan in my 72. That's a great feeling. I have been wanting to try a spot welder!
Thanks Kevin for another interesting and educational video... You're the best!
I appreciate that, man! Glad you're enjoying the build!
@@paintucationyou're welcome, except I'm not a man...lol
Kevin, I have the same problem with my work ethic " perfection is good enough" LOL
I put factory quarters on a 67 camaro 30 years ago and spot welded right through the E-coat, no problem. I used a similar spot welder to what you used.
Thinner coating? More pressure on the electrodes? More voltage and current probably would help.
I have been using this exact HF welder, I filed the tips to make the welds wider match the factory resistance welds.
I thought about that too!!! It's such a narrow contact.... Gonna try that
Back in 1974 when your Camaro was built they used uncoated steel panels and they were held in indexable welding jigs and humans spot welded them together. That'd why you have the uneven spacing of the welds. Later in the 1980s they began to go to coil coated steels that used weldable primers and welding robots started to takeover and you had evenly spaced spot welds. What you need to comfortably use your spot welder is a spring loaded tool balancer either hanging from an above mounted trolly or in the case of a small shop a cherry picker. You set the balancer to zero force and it takes up the weight of the tools so you don't have to.
See.... This is exactly what I hope for when I try something out of my comfort zone. Obviously you've got experience with this, I love the learning curve! I'll probably never do what you're talking about, but I know that I've got a bunch to learn on this and it is invigorating! Thanks very much for your comment man.
You could also try that gun support that Jesse Ventura wore in da Predatuh. I just put Arnold's voice in your head
I'm a lot like you Kevin I like experiment with tools and I like to watch you do it and learn.
Living the dream vicariously. My first new car was a 72 LT Camaro. How I wish I had the space to do what your doing.
I had a 75 LT, I always thought the LT was what replaced the Z when it wasn't made for 3 years?
@@TheZachVideo The LT Meant "Luxury Touring" The interior was a bit different. The door panels were padded vs plastic in 72, not sure about later years.
Please test it welding through some panel bond. I love that you don't edit out things like forgetting to turn on the gas.
I've heard of people using it through panel Bond as well, several oe's mandate welds at the corners on a larger panel even if it's not a structural repair. I will definitely try it through panel Bond and test it
Kevin love your new series I have a 72 SS with the Rallysport option which I pretty much have to do the same body panel replacements except the roof panel I hope.I have been watching every episode to see what I’m getting my self into I Ain’t scared 😮
Dude, I learned so much from this episode. Thoroughly enjoyed this. Thank you
Real eye opening coverage of the spot welder and EDM with shunt pliers wow nice. @inerlogic had a neat suggestion on vice grip mod to help mark positions. Excellent session, Thanks again for your generous sharing through videos
Absolutely!!
Dang it.. I so wanted you to buy me a beer.😅
Lol!!
That was fun to watch I like tools of all kind as well now I need to go find a project so I can get one of those too!
Nice job! Info on the e-Coat was great. 2 more weeks and you're done 😁? Ever thought of having Chip Foose draw you up a finished rendition of this Camaro?
😎 Now that is a great tutorial! But now I need a spot welder, lol
Easy to watch.
One of the old LENCO panel spot welders would be very nice. Had a very old one that worked well..the catch was it ran on 220v/40 amps. Worked well though with access from just one side.
great content, Kevin. it's stupid how much i watch Canadians wrenching 🔧 on cars 🤪
We grew up wrenching on cars!! It's what we know!! Lol!
@ you're good on video too!
Kevin 👍🏻 🙋♂️ 👍🏻
That shunt is cool if you're only using spot welder but the pannels that you need to do both you could mig weld one hole first then spot weld without having to clean a spot for the shunt
Hey Kevin, To locate both sides where you want to spot weld, use a tape measure on a reference you can see from both sides.
Your jaws are just a copper bar threaded on one end and drilled and tapped on the other, with a bend. If you have a drill, tap and die, and a bender you can make any shape jaws you need.
PS... You can suspend it from your cherry picker. Less work for your biceps.
45:39 now you got me singing INXS😂
And an FYI, you can buy/make all sorts of extension arms if you can't reach a certain spot.
Thank you , I was going to ask that question .
@@robfdavis - You just think it, I reply! :D
@@DrFiero lol
I've wanted one of those for like 30+ years! So I bought one about 2 weeks ago. :D
(Vevor, but I'm pretty sure it's out of the same factory - looks identical)
Nice! You're gonna love it!
Shunting is very important! Have to shunt once a week! Lol
I shunted this morning!
You could use an engine hoist to hold the spot welder at different heights it takes the weight off your arms used this method for a large tank.
Ya owe me a beer 🤣I have to agree, spot welding is superior then plug welding with a MIG... BUT! you forgot to mention the rust and whats best for that steel. Always better to use flux core on rusty or dirty metal because the flux will pull all the oxides or junk into the slag. Another thing you should mentioned is not relying on "e-coat" as a rust inhibitor. Weld through primer would even do better then the "e-coat" because it will convert the area the heat was after.
Kevin, when I built my 67 Z28 I took a pair of vice grips and modified them so I could attach an insulating section and then and the tips out of a spot welder. I ran battery cables from the spot welder to the vice grips. They did not have a lot of reach but instead of trying to move around a "29#" spot welder I could just vice grip the edge and zap it for a couple seconds. The tough part was finding a material that would insulate and take heat. I dont remember what the material was but it worked great.
Progress is good!😂
Wait till you see what's coming up!
You said you said thanks for letting you know what we want to see and I've never done this not even with Derek I usually let you guys do what y'all want to do but I would like to see you restore AK or C10 Chevy pickup 70s to 80s model
You are very Welcome Kevin. Oh and Yuengling will be fine.!!! Bottle not can.
Done!!
Harley Davidson in York Pa. used to or still does E-coat the interior of their gas tanks. It was a crude process that involved sticking a pipe with a nozzle on the end through the gas fill hole and pulling the lever on the side causing the E-coat to spray. Nothing was metered. I watched it a couple times and shook my head. If the employee had a bad day with the company management, he would hold the lever open longer. This resulted in a lot of E-coat inside and before it cured, it would settle and often after the tank was sent to the other stages of manufacture, pieces would break off. Many chunks were thicker than 3/8” and larger than the gas fill opening. This was discovered through handling the tanks through the different stages prior to powder paint. The chunk(s) had to be broken up inside the tank for removal and than took a long punch , positioning and a hammer, giving it several solid wacks. Once removed it went through the other stages. This also restricted the flow of fuel out the botton of the tank, making the outlet hole smaller but that wwas never addressed. Management knew. Get-r-done and don't stop the assembly line. If you ever encounter a tank with epoxy pieces inside or restricted fuel flow, you'll know why.
You needed the 220v version welder so you could use larger diameter contact tips. Even if the reach allows you to get one side of the trunk floor frame rails those tiny welds will be kind of weak. I would prefer the zinc rich weld thru coating inside those lapped panel joints. The zinc is better for stopping corrosion from creeping in between panels. By all means preserve the e-coating everywhere else.
FYI: E-coat is different than Electrostatic Painting or Electroplating.
E-coat, or electrocoating, is a painting process that uses an electrical current to apply a protective finish to a metal surface. It's also known as electrophoretic coating or electropainting.
E-coat is electrostatically applied with cathode -annode immersion. Unless I'm mistaken. I may interchange labels, but E-coat is typically immersion application.
@@paintucation
Yes, e-coated panels sometimes have runs. This looks like the panels were dipped. The really high quality parts are usually smooth as glass.
Myself I used an old zip cut with a 1/8 thick wheel and work the center of the plug weld leaving with a dimple, after primer and paint, always made me satisfied. Just me
I am more of a Crown Royal guy. I'll watch the mail for my drink. Thanks Kevin.
Thanks for the video it's great
Kevin. tip: You can do 1 mig weld first and then you have the connection established for the spot welds. Understand? 👍 Good job
Tip sharpening is key to good spot welds. 👌
Great point! (See what it did there?)😁
Im sure you know, but you can buy extra tongs, tips, etc on Amazon. They are pricey thoguh.
I have the same spot welder, but in the 240v version. Worked great for thinner metal on the car. Like the trunk drop offs to trunk floor. Roof skin to under structure. Thats about it. At least what i found using it over my 71 camaro.
I can't believe Mr PPE didn't have his hearing protection on using the finger sander 😂
Didn't I have buds in?
Lookin good...
Just kind of a question...Since you usually have 2 to 4 alignment screws through the two panels, wouldn't that be enough contact so you wouldn't have to use the shunt OR do the plug welds first which should give you connectivity and then do the spot welds. That's a long question! Really enjoy watching what you do and happy that you are savings the cars!! 👍👌
You get to do what I wanted to do in highschool
I'd like to see you try using vicegrps as your shunting pliers.
Grind it on the back side use a set of vice grips to make a little mark
I want a beer Kevin!
Me too! Lol!
Great content and thanks 🔧🔧👍
I would like to see some texting with a larger diameter weld tip. I think the diameter of the tip you were using is very small. What size tips did GM use when they built these cars? Can you file your tip to match GM and see what the weld looks like? Thanks for doing this, I’m interested in buying one also. Love the channel!
I'm gonna file the tips and make it a larger contact point .. I agree its a very small point