HOW TO: Diagnose & FIX BMW Secondary Air System Fault Codes
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Today we're tackling the check engine light on my 2005 E46 wagon by diagnosing and resolving the secondary air system. For the first part of the video, I build you a diagram and show the basics of the system and how it works. Then we fix the system on my BMW so you can see hands on how it works and how to test each component!
Hope this video help you out, and thanks for watching! Don't forget to check out The Bimmer Barn store to grab some merchandise, and get exclusive access to EXTRA content through our Patreon! :)
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0:40 How the Secondary Air System Works
5:30 Diagnosing the problem on my E46
You are not sharing a experience, you are my teacher! Thank you! You are one of the best teacher I have ever meet! Thank you!
Great video. One thing I did with my BMW is replace all the vacuum lines with silicone rubber so I never had to worry about rotted rubber ever again and in a place as hot as AZ it's well worth doing as the heat here tends to degrade rubber, batteries and so on. Also, my silicone rubber windshield wipers lasted over 5 years and never streaked so as you can imagine I'm a big fan of it over rubber where you can use it.
OK, Thank you so much, it realy help me. great video !!!!!!
Where can I buy the silicone vacuum lines ?
Link?
@@t-pitz8866 My comment would probably be rejected if I tried to put in a link however google/amazon search for something like Silicone Vacuum Tubing Hose 8mm should get you what I used.
@Just Data ok ty ! Currently trying to pass smog "secondary air system " .
Silicone hoses are what I did to my pontiac, and oh boy were they crusty lol 😆 thx again
Sizing and lengths? If you know.
I bought a new secondary air pump after disconnecting the hose and not feeling any air coming out of it on a cold start. Maybe you should inform your viewers that the secondary air pump usually only blows for about 10-20 seconds, so after you cold start, jump out of the driver's seat and run around to see if it's blowing. Don't wait and sip on your coffee or text your gf or whatever. Anyway, I watched your video and a couple others and I liked the way you drew out a chart explaining how the whole system works and what can go wrong. I paid Pelican Parts $95 for a new pump, three grommets, and $9 delivery. Did the job myself in 15 minutes after getting all the right tools together the night before (17 mm wrench, 10 mm wratchet, 6 mm wratchet or Phillips screwdriver (either one works on the hose clamp screw), a cotter pin dipped in white lithium grease to loosen and pry off the hose from the pump, and I bought two 10 mm nuts to replace the ones that had fallen off the broken grommets (one was still there so I used it again). I highly recommend to anyone doing this pump repair to check whether the grommets are broken first because once you take it all apart you won't be able to drive to the hardware to buy them. Play it safe and wiggle the pump around the night before to figure out how many grommets are broken, or just play it safe and buy three 10 mm nuts the day before the cold start.
Underrated message.thanks
I’ve been dealing with these codes for bank 1 and 2 on my 545i for awhile it’s annoying lol thanks for properly explaining how this all works 👍🏼
Bimmere46 Jakie masz objawy, co robi silnik?
Mam to samo w545i E60 2004 year.
Mój BMW drga,uderza na biegu jałowym.
Nie ma przyspieszenia, mocy.
Czasami ma moc, ale często nie ma.
You’re just fantastic at explaining all of this complicated stuff. 👍🏻👍🏻
I’ve worked on Mercedes-Benz & BMW for 15 years, and I must tell you that you’re great at this!!
Thanks so much, that means a lot to me 🙏
@@TheBimmerBarn I'm a BMW tech...I love my three (E36,46 and the demon) I just wish I could tie my e46 M3 down so it doesn't ingest coolant...It's a Bimmer, what can I say.
The hose that is capped off with screw and blue tape , runs from your fuel filter/ fuel pressure regulator and connects to an F connector on your upper intake boot right after maf sensor
Excellent explanation thanks a lot for sharing, My pump is new as well as my air pump valve the pump works for about a second and turns off...it was working before and now is not so I am thinking I connect the vacuum line incorrectly. can you explain to me the direction of the vacuum line to the solenoid and the check black/white plastic valve. thanks
Great video Chris I’ve had several of these issues with the SAP I had to take my valve off and pull a vacuum on it with a mighty vac and blow through it to make sure it was working.
Excellent video! Thank you for a great explanation. I am running into this issue now. I changed the pump but the codes are still there - so solenoid and valve next.
That hose you touched last, where you said it should be like a vacume if you put your tongue on it, should that of been plugged in somewhere? As you just left it! Thanks for the video, very helpful as mine has a air pump problem, I'm just researching it hence watching your video..
Amazing video, super comprehensive and educational!
I have a 2003 BMW z4 2.5i that only has one code P1415 secondary air system flow too low I believe it should be the vaccum line. Any other recommendations for just this one code?
Could I go from a mechical pump to an electrical one?
Nice fix Chris! Thanks for sharing. Dutch regards, Nico.
I have a 2013 128i (E82 with a N51 SULEV engine) and I am getting this code for Bank 1. I have already checked the pump by hooking a battery up to the plug and it runs strong, but I have Active Autowerke headers (which deletes the primary cats), I deleted the secondary cats, it also has an AFE Stage 3 cold air intake, a Magnaflow exhaust, and an Active Autowerke tune (which disables the catalyst system in the DME). The only thing that I can think of that could possibly cause this (and my Thor adapter is suggesting as well) is that my valve is plugged with carbon. Im going to remove it again (because I removed it when I installed the headers), and clean it all out. This is my first Bimmer.
Great Video. I own a Jeep but I liked the way you make it a lot easier for me. Thank you.
Appreciate the work
I learned so much from your video!! I have a 2005 BMW 325i with 176,000 miles and my Check Engine Light stays on. My mechanic said it was my Cylinder Head Ports that are clogged. Are there any fixes to getting that fixed besides an engine replacement? I've subscribed to your channel! Thank you!😊
I have a 04 BMW 325ci, my car does not have a vacuum, the problem I have is that there is no power to the secondary air pump, check the fuse and they have power. Do you think the relay has something to do with it? They changed the key in the car. I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
where did you find a new vacuum line?
It runs fine when i start it up after like 10 minutes it looks like its misfiring and the code is secondary air injection pump
My hose is disconnected behind the engine but overall in good condition. But for the life of me I could not find where to reconnect it to complete the system!
Whats the purpose for the secondary pump system? Thanks. I noticed on my 2013 128i it has one and on my 2009 128i it doesn't.
A “rich mixture” (λ
Super helpful and good video thanks for the information!!
For some reason I can’t find this valve 2010 328i
Secondary Air Injection System Incomplete.
No service engine light, pump is running for 20 seconds and shutting off, solenoid is working and both the solenoid and non return valve do not leak. What could it be?
Nice clip! Could they causing the fuel system stays on open loop even on idle? ie, 0v on O2 sensors and 0% fueltrim. The ECT is at normal range temperature.
It's just part of the cold start routine so it shouldnt create an open loop condition as far as I'm aware
So I have a 2005 bmw X3 that's been getting a cylinder 6 misfire on start up accompanied by 2761 code. The air pump and air pump relay is fine - i was told that it was most likely that there's a plugged head on the secondary air ports. I was also told a repair would involve removing all of the cylinders to access the part and not to bother.
Where's this pumps fuse located and what number....
@@abumannocchi that vehicle went to the junkyard in the sky about 9 months ago.
What would cause smoke to come out the secondary air pump (when accelerating)
im getting a code P0133 and P1345, im thinking i need to to replace my entire SAP system.
Anyone know where I can find the vacuum line that runs of the valve ?
Great video. I just replaced the purge valve and my check engine came on code 1415. Also, I have a 2008 BMW 328i. My Question to you is, how many miles does the car go without replacing the pump?
There is some way to clean those without taking the head off?
You the man you solved my problem
Secondary pump isn't required, but it's just to extend the life of catalyst converter.
Great explanation! Thanks!
my line was filled up with ester oil! replaced the valve and pump, runs great.....
WTH! Good fix, thanks for sharing with us! :)
So if I've replaced and made sure all parts mentioned are good, all vacuum hoses, solenoid, black and white check valve, new main valve and pump; but I still have low flow bank one and two codes, I can deduce that the ports on my exhaust being plugged is the only thing that would cause the code now?
Sounds about right! You can take off the SAP valve and put a camera in the port and check. It may be so clogged you might not even be able to get an endoscope in there, but that should confirm it for you. Hope that helps!
@TheBimmerBarn awesome, appreciate the response my man! I feel that's a possibility being when I bought the car the main hose was busted and the vacuum line at the main valve was broken and both were pretty dirty from sucking in ambient air and dirt lol I'll have to tear into it or code it out by the sounds of it. Really don't want to take the head off lol
Just bought car today. Researching before I register. What does this part even do... code was on there but I erased it with code reader now I'm going to fix all codes check my page
Very clearly explained and demonstrated. Awesome video
how much vacuum should that line have? Mine has very little but some
Thanks brother. 👍🏽
Привет . Откуда берёт сигнал реле , для включения насоса ?
Great video, Chris. So you have access to the vacuum line, that runs to the back of the intake manifold, when the cabin filter tray is removed? So the intake doesn't have to be removed to replace the vacuum line to the solenoid, correct? Thanks!
Yes! It's hard to see, but with the cabin filter off, you can feel the back of the intake manifold and the solenoid is right there. Easy to change the vacuum lines without much work! Hope this helps, lp!
Hey I just received this check engine code on my e class benz and was wondering if it is standard to show that the airflow is low on both banks or does that mean that the check valve on each side is faulty? I hear a sort of metallic whistling noise at cold start sometimes and am tempted to adress the check valve that looks like a metallic bell as it seems like it could make this noise.
Thanks for watching your video i did everything you mentioned but now the accelaration sometimes is poorly and my service light flashes
Weird! I'm not sure why you'd be down on power, unless something else is also wrong. I recommend checking your codes and that should tell you what needs to be fixed!
Amazing video I have the same problem on my 2004 bmw 530 i
Would there still be current flow showing up with the test light, even if the car is not on?
Does this effect your acceleration
Can you get a Lean bank 1 and 2 code if your hose that goes from pump to valve has a rip in it?
Did you find your answer to your question?
@@alexlive9375 I bought a new one and put it on and the code didn’t pop up again
@@fresnoliving5593 thanks mate, I just did that right now but haven’t drove it. Hopefully it doesn’t pop up again
@@alexlive9375 no problem, make sure your air intake boot isn’t ripped. Mine was cracked from the small boot
@@fresnoliving5593 so far doesn’t seem like it is, I checked
dude i literally have this issue right now.... have error p1423 and p1421 EUIII: p0410
Can you help me? I have fault code 2DB4 INTERFASE MFL , where is problem ?
This guy's left handed so he must he a genuis
I'm gonna do a fix on my sap in my 540. Get a tune to eliminate it...
Lol sometimes the best solution is the simplest one!
@@TheBimmerBarn Funny thing is, I get no codes from the sap. The pump sounds like an A-10 taxing tho
GREETINGS, In what directionis the check valve placed, the white side towards the manifold or the black side, and is it placed before or after the vacuum control valve ..., and the pipe enters the straight inlet or the one at a right angle...? THANK YOU.
I don't recall which side is which, but; simply blow into the check valve, and the direction that the air flows should be pointed towards the intake manifold. That way, when the car starts, and vacuum in the intake manifold is created, the air will also be sucked out of that vacuum line, creating consistent vacuum on the other side of the check valve. Hope that helps!
my n46 engine has no secondary air pump vau;t.... it that normal?
Good video. Subscribed
Would the filter be to clogged to pull in enough clean air?
Perhaps? Haven't seen that before, but could be possible if you live in an extremely dusty area.
In this case though, you could just pull the hose off that is the fan "output" and put your hand there to make sure enough air is coming out. Hope that makes sense!
Should this happen after only 88K miles? I have a 2000 Z3 with the same codes showing up P1421, P1423.
The engine runs fine but fails emissions test.
With rubber vacuum lines being 22 years old, I'd say yes.
I have a 2004 325 touring....240K so far.
Recently started to stumble and misfire...
Code reader says CAT malfunction secondary air pump failure
Runs great 1st 5 or 6 miles....then looses power.
After stopping for long enough to cool...the process repeats.
I can also create the misfire with hard acceleration.
Any ideas?...thanks
Does it have a misfire code ? Otherwise I would think a bad oxygen sensor could cause bad running and a catalytic converter fault. Hope that helps!
@@TheBimmerBarn P0335 and 0702...
my small hand scanner says...
misfire..cat not ready..secondary air pump not ready....replaced that hose the short curved one...that made it run worse 🤣
Old hose was soft and spongy.
Was able to get back 70 miles...but stalled twice in city driving...but at least it would start. limp mode on.
I have not seen cold start this am....but its been starting and running great...the great start is when it looses power.
this am....P0140 160 335 340....
171/174 are gone 🙂
Starts and runs smoothly....driving to a trail head in an hour. Lets see how that goes?
The 2 camshaft position sensors are new.
bro how to check a vacuum leak on a bmw e60 m5
Hello. New subscriber here :) Glad to find your video. Can you advise for BMW 320D with Fault code 290900 air to EGR air mass flow, plausibility measured air mass compared with calculated air mass to high, please?
Could this problem cause white smoke to come out of your tail pipe?
No, white smoke sounds like a pcv system issue, water vapor is what causes white smoke. Blue smoke from your exhaust means oil leak
Sounds like this effects 02 sensor. Please change part bc 02 sensor bank 1 if that cat goes bad good luck. Engine wont go past 40 then slow engine death
What is the part number for the vacuum hose on FCP euro or pelican ppl parts?
From FCP Euro they have couple different options/lengths, but this one is 5 meters of black rubber vacuum line: CRP 51731257971-5
Great video
Thanks!
Quibbles: 1. the diagram should have been drawn much more legibly, 2. you blow through quickly and don't really explain how the vacuum lines are routed, well enough for the rest of us to understand.
Maybe this system is better diagrammed in the Bentley manual (which I don't have).
Thanks man
Happy to help, thanks for watching!
I have a pending code of p0411 what can I do to fix it ? Thanx.
Check the secondary air system, vacuum lines, etc like we did in this video! Then if everything is working correct, you may have carbon build up inside the cylinder head. Good luck friend :)
The secondary mass air flow sensor can cause P0411 as well. I found that out after replacing the valve and hoses without success.
I have a 2009 328i and can't pass smog because of this problem
If you haven't already done so yourself at some point, I suggest replacing the vacuum hose all the way. That's pretty much the no. 1 cause of any codes for the SAP. If that doesn't fix the problem, TEST the valve (there are numerous videos on BMW websites on how to do this, and it's a 15 minute simple deal.)
Also, on both of my E39s ('97 540 and '03 530) there is also a small plastic check-valve, either behind the back of motor or on the right (passenger) side of engine close to the top of valve cover. Jason didn't mention this, but if the large valve near the right-front of the engine gets stuck open, exhaust gas will be sucked into the vacuum line and will eventually clog that little check-valve with carbon and crap. This occured on my 530i. I replaced that valve (simple generic/universal one-way vacuum check-valve) for like $3 - available at any parts store. Cleared my codes and was good to go (for smog check, that is.)
The pump itself is *suppsed* to sound like that. It's spinning quite fast and hence makes a high-pitched motor/fan sound, very similar to a handheld hairdryer. But, your motor has to be pretty cold (I think
03 e39 525i. My sap doesn’t even turn on,on cold starts.what gives?
Check the pump to see if it works like he does at 12:21, directly from the power source. That will tell you if the pump is actually working. If the pump runs with direct power then you aren't getting the "turn it on" signal to the pump. Test the connector he is holding at 12:17 with a cold engine to see if it's sending power to the pump. If no power goes to the connector try replacing the relay. Good luck.
@@BrookBowenVideos I bench test pump it works👍🏼. I took out the relay will test tomorrow. I’ll check to see if there’s any vacuum coming from the valve in the back.
pump= Good
vaccum from solenoid= good
Hoses=Good
relay=Good
must be the Valve
1.Cold start
2.Pump turned on ( hoses weren’t connected).
3. There was vacuum coming from solenoid.
4. New check valve installed
-----------
NOW: Cold start
Every thing is attached “hoses etc”
Pump doesn’t turn on.
I benched test pump, it turned ON
I plugged it in the car without hoses attached, it turned ON.🤯
Also there was no vacuum coming from solenoid.
You forgot to mention the pump isn’t going to effect the car the way it runs
If you cant afford the 189$ hose autozone a basic hose 1 feet for 4$ till u ebay one for 78$ after looking for 2 weeks the. Junk yard one for 10 u pull. Id just take the hose and the big motor with it fkr 20-30
Step one: Remove cats
Step two: Remove SAP
03 e39 525i. My sap doesn’t even turn on.
There's a relay and 2 fuses that work to turn it on, I would start there! Or, apply 12v to the pump alone to see if it works. Good luck!
@@TheBimmerBarn pump works👍🏼. Don’t know where’s the relay & fuses?
@@sambonilla416 Not sure, should be in the fuse diagrams or somewhere online though!
bro mine isn’t even installed
👍👍👍👍
Deleted mine
How
@@Superproductivetoday, remove the entire air system, and the little silver valve (its above the catalytic converter) with the vacuum line. You block the air line that is in the back of the intake manifold, then there is a plate you install where the silver air valve was (secondary air pump block off plate).
Dirty Guy,,,
OK video, insipid music.
Bmw ist trash only trash 👎👎👎.
Can u just delete it altogether!!!?????
You remove the secondary air pump system, follow the vac line that goes in the back of the intake manifold, block the nipple where the hose went, make or buy a plate to put over where the silver air valve went.
@@frankendoodle6379 already did it