By the way ...using this and some other YT vids I cleared my check engine light on my 2.5 Roadster 2001 - there were 8 fault codes. I learnt : do not use Chinese parts, German parts prices have crashed to being very cheap and it isn't that hard to do.
question i did this... felt nothing from the hose side... air pump is hella blowing air. Now is it the valve if i feel nothing in the hose... no matter whats happening down the line towards the intake manifold area? Im tryin to remove P0491 and P0492 codes
Yeah, that is a pretty good sign that your secondary pump (the little shiny metal one) is not working. I would watch this first and then replace ruclips.net/video/oymVvM7Wxbc/видео.html
Ignacio Romero I suppose your are right. I mean exhaust from the pump’s point of view since it is blowing air out. But in the grand scheme of things you are right, it is an air input to the engine.
There is a filter under the cap of the secondary air pump, what is the Cerial Number or how the heck do I get another filter without buying another pump?
MLGxGIFT Surginer's take a look here. Hopefully you find what you are looking for. www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=AV33-USA---E46-BMW-325i&diagId=11_3515#11727571589
For all my vacuum leak related work, I never reset the light. After a few days of driving, if you fixed the root cause, it will go away by itself. Of course, you can also just go to Autozone and they will read the code and reset it for free
One con would be a check engine light... and increased emissions, as Erol mentioned when warming up, (cats take a lot longer to heat up). Can't really think of any "advantage" other than the big ugly pump not being there anymore!
so could you tell me what will happn if one of these ar both don't work very well? i mean what is the symptom of not working these components? advanced wishes
I am sorry that this video is two years ago, but I have a question, if it is damaging any of the two things that you show, what is the function of that, my car does not throw hot air into the cabin, and already change the thermostat, change Another piece that goes inside the air control cabin, and still not working, I don't get hot air, what could be the problem?
What if the secondary air pump kicks on but doesn’t shut off like it’s supposed to? Mine is staying on permanently when the car is running and sounds like a vacuum cleaner.
That’s a problem. The most likely problem (and cheapest to fix) is to change the secondary air pump relay. I can’t recall where that relay is but that is where I would start. Also, if I were you, I would unplug the air pump for now so it does not run constantly and risk burning up. It is not designed to run long.
Indeed. This is exactly one of the things we test in this video. If you set up the test exactly the way I did it in this video you should A) in the first minute feel a very strong air flow coming out of the pump. This shows that the pump is working B) in the first minute, while the pump is pumping, when you put your finger on the detached side of the plastic hose, you should feel a faint suction or nothing. That shows you that the check valve is open. C) after about a minute, the air pump should stop. D) a few seconds after that, when you put your thumb on the hose that you disconnected, you should feel absolutely nothing. There should be no suction. . This shows you that your check valve has closed. So pay special attention to steps B and D above if you suspect your check valve is not working. I hope this helps
It is part 11727553063. In the BMW literature it is referred to as "Air Pump Control Valve (EGR)" You are correct that while it does not recirculate the exhaust gas back to the cylinders which is what an EGR does, it is commonly known as an EGR valve in the M54 engines. For those following this for curiosity and learning, the way this valve works with the air pump is by supplying air into the exhaust system to reduce tailpipe emissions. The reason it runs only for a short time and during cold starts is because of the fuel rich mixture needed during the cold starts. A lot of fuel with limited air to facilitate cold starts means that high quantities of unburned hydrocarbons are produced. Since the catalytic converter is not warm enough to to its job at this point, this "secondary air" is injected into the exhaust to reduce pollution. This is said to also heat the catalytic converter faster although I am not sure as to why that is
Can you please tell me where the pump valve hose travels to? The thin black hose on mine cracked but I can’t seem to find the other end of the hose and its destination
Hi. Check out this diagram. I think this is what you are asking www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=AW33-USA---E46-BMW-325i&diagId=11_2203#11611312737
Back of the intake manifold make sure to check a diagram of some sort there are a few different holes 2 connect to eachother theough the black and white selenoid and one needs plugged and one is the hole that you kees to route to from the air pump
Hi. OBD reset is not only a factor of miles, it is also a factor of "cycles." Meaning, the car has to go through multiple cycles of cold starts. So, I would not be alarmed by this. Instead, I would continue to drive the car as usual for a few days under normal conditions.
It should be no more or less than the temperature of the engine bay. So I would say warm to the touch but definitely not hot like the engine since it has no moving parts (after the first minute of startup) not hot gases, oil, or coolant running to it.
How could i get ready my Secondary air pump, all of my sensors are ready except this i drove it for 1 hr just the SAP doesnt get ready. Im going change the hose first i saw sign of wear. It has no codes .Thank you.
The secondary air pump test is done at cold start leaving car idle for about 3 minutes without driving. If pump is working check o2 sensors bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1. They sense the lean condition at start up. Also check for vacuum leaks.
When I check mine, the air pump blows fine. However I never feel anything coming out of the exit hose when disconnected. The pump stops, and still feel nothing coming out of the hose. When I disconnect the vacuum line to the check valve and put a vacuum gage on it, it reads zero. Does this mean the check valve can still be good and maybe the vacuum check valve at the back of the engine is what is bad causing the air pump check valve not to work?
If you set up the test exactly the way I did it in this video you should A) in the first minute feel a very strong air flow coming out of the pump. This shows that the pump is working B) in the first minute, while the pump is pumping, when you put your finger on the detached side of the plastic hose, you should feel a faint suction or nothing. That shows you that the check valve is open. C) after about a minute, the air pump should stop. D) a few seconds after that, when you put your thumb on the hose that you disconnected, you should feel absolutely nothing. There should be no suction. . This shows you that your check valve has closed. Based on that, if I am understanding your description properly, i actually believe that your car is fine.
If you set up the test exactly the way I did it in this video you should A) in the first minute feel a very strong air flow coming out of the pump. This shows that the pump is working B) in the first minute, while the pump is pumping, when you put your finger on the detached side of the plastic hose, you should feel a faint suction or nothing. That shows you that the check valve is open. C) after about a minute, the air pump should stop. D) a few seconds after that, when you put your thumb on the hose that you disconnected, you should feel absolutely nothing. There should be no suction. . This shows you that your check valve has closed. I believe you are asking about step B. Check valve would not be blowing anything. That is no reason for concern. See if you can feel a faint suction from it. That would be the normal behaviour
Samet Bey hayir. P0171 & P0174 hatalari vakum kacagi. RUclips dan "Vacuum Leak" diye bakarsaniz bulursunuz. Maalesef sebebi 10 adet degisik sey olabilir. Bizim Amerika'li bir arkadasin guzel bir videosu var. ruclips.net/video/QiqUAF0zxCk/видео.html Suradan bakabilirsin.
Merhaba Erol bey. SAI’nin boşta olması araçta basınç kaçağına ve performans kaybına sebep verebilir mi? Audi 1.8T de gözlemlediğim. Pompa hortumları kayıp durumda EGR dışarı bakıyor ve EGR’nin diğer ucu selenoidlerden geçerek emme manifolduna bağlanıyor. Teşekkürler video için
Merhaba. Secondary Air Pump in bosta olmasi performansi etkilemez. Amaci, arac soguk sartlarda balsatildigi zaman, manifolda taze hava verip egzoz gazındaki carbon monoksidi (emisyon) azaltmaktir. Vakum bolumu sistemdeki nemi de alir, ve bunun katalitik konvertirin omrunun uzatildigi da soylenir. Yani -10 C nin altindaki startlarda 30 saniyelik bir emisyon gorevi var o kadar.
@@ErolEskinazi Anladım Erol bey. SAI nedeniyle p0411 arıza kodu mevcut. Edindiğim bilgilerde bu arıza kodundan kaynaklı performans kaybı vb durumlar görülebilirmiş. Audi 3.0 kullanıcısı Sai pump değişimi ile performans ve a/t vites geçişleri sorunun düzeldiğini dile getirdi. Bu yüzden sizinde bilginizi almak istedim. Teşekkürler
Osman Yazar merhaba. Bu normal arabalarda EGR valve olarak geçen parçanın dengi. Motorun ilk çalıştığı ve benzinin fazla miktarda silindire pompalandığı ilk ısınma dakikalarında, hava kirliliğini azaltmak için egzosa hava basan motor. Tek görevi motor ve katalitik konvertör soğukken yanmamış karbonların havaya katılmasını azaltmak. Katalitik konvertör ısınıp görevini yapmaya başlayınca devreden çıkıyor.
It is part 11727553063. In the BMW literature it is referred to as "Air Pump Control Valve (EGR)" You are correct that while it does not recirculate the exhaust gas back to the cylinders which is what an EGR does, it is commonly known as an EGR valve in the M54 engines.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I love simple straight fixes, no bs no intro. Straight shooter 🎉
You saved me with this video! Thank you!
Glad I could help!
By the way ...using this and some other YT vids I cleared my check engine light on my 2.5 Roadster 2001 - there were 8 fault codes. I learnt : do not use Chinese parts, German parts prices have crashed to being very cheap and it isn't that hard to do.
Awesome. Thanks for sharing and adding to the collective knowledge base
This cured my cold start rough idle....lasted about 90 seconds, then purred.
Thanks for the great vid and all the help to your followers.
I am glad it helped. DIYers helping DIYers. That’s what it is about. Thanks for the comment.
question i did this... felt nothing from the hose side... air pump is hella blowing air.
Now is it the valve if i feel nothing in the hose... no matter whats happening down the line towards the intake manifold area?
Im tryin to remove P0491 and P0492 codes
Yeah, that is a pretty good sign that your secondary pump (the little shiny metal one) is not working. I would watch this first and then replace ruclips.net/video/oymVvM7Wxbc/видео.html
A "little vacuum or a little exhaust coming out"???
Nice video, I think you meant Vacuum not Exhaust...Exhaust would push back on the air coming from the pump. Thanks for the info.
Ignacio Romero I suppose your are right. I mean exhaust from the pump’s point of view since it is blowing air out. But in the grand scheme of things you are right, it is an air input to the engine.
Yeah that confused me a bit there too. So it’s vacuum I’m looking for not exhaust right?
There is a filter under the cap of the secondary air pump, what is the Cerial Number or how the heck do I get another filter without buying another pump?
MLGxGIFT Surginer's take a look here. Hopefully you find what you are looking for.
www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=AV33-USA---E46-BMW-325i&diagId=11_3515#11727571589
do you have to reset all codes or is it this case: when fixed the service engine light goes out while driving ? Dan Hotchin
For all my vacuum leak related work, I never reset the light. After a few days of driving, if you fixed the root cause, it will go away by itself. Of course, you can also just go to Autozone and they will read the code and reset it for free
thank you for taking the trouble
Hello, so that noise is not a problem? Mine does same noise when start and goes after few sec.
Not at all. That is exactly what you want to hear. It means the pump kicked in
Erol Eskinazi thank you
If the noise is loud. That hose that connects the 2 parts he showed may have a leak or crack in it
I replaced the hose in mine. Ive heard you can remove it what are the pros and cons in having it or not?
Good question. That, I could not tell you. I am guessing higher emissions during the first minute or so but to be honest I do not know.
@@ErolEskinazi thanks for the reply
One con would be a check engine light... and increased emissions, as Erol mentioned when warming up, (cats take a lot longer to heat up). Can't really think of any "advantage" other than the big ugly pump not being there anymore!
so could you tell me what will happn if one of these ar both don't work very well?
i mean what is the symptom of not working these components?
advanced wishes
If they are not working, you will get the check engine light. Most likely with error codes PO491and/or PO492
Erol Eskinazi wish I had seen your video before I took my car to he shop to get those codes diagnosed. 😭😭😭😭 Would had save me $$$
Erol I'm getting PO491 AND PO492 codes on my 2004 E46. What could these be?
I’m having a hard time finding the other end of where the valve hose goes to, anyone know ? Where it travels from and to
I am sorry that this video is two years ago, but I have a question, if it is damaging any of the two things that you show, what is the function of that, my car does not throw hot air into the cabin, and already change the thermostat, change Another piece that goes inside the air control cabin, and still not working, I don't get hot air, what could be the problem?
Rene Redrovan not getting hot air in the cabin once the engine is warm is almost always a function of low coolant.
What if the secondary air pump kicks on but doesn’t shut off like it’s supposed to? Mine is staying on permanently when the car is running and sounds like a vacuum cleaner.
That’s a problem. The most likely problem (and cheapest to fix) is to change the secondary air pump relay. I can’t recall where that relay is but that is where I would start. Also, if I were you, I would unplug the air pump for now so it does not run constantly and risk burning up. It is not designed to run long.
@@ErolEskinazi oh wow! I’m not even getting a check engine light which is weird. Looks like that relay is in the glovebox area.
can the air pump be working but not the valve?
Indeed. This is exactly one of the things we test in this video. If you set up the test exactly the way I did it in this video you should
A) in the first minute feel a very strong air flow coming out of the pump. This shows that the pump is working
B) in the first minute, while the pump is pumping, when you put your finger on the detached side of the plastic hose, you should feel a faint suction or nothing. That shows you that the check valve is open.
C) after about a minute, the air pump should stop.
D) a few seconds after that, when you put your thumb on the hose that you disconnected, you should feel absolutely nothing. There should be no suction. . This shows you that your check valve has closed.
So pay special attention to steps B and D above if you suspect your check valve is not working. I hope this helps
BMW M54 engine doesn't have EGR VALVE (exhaust gas recirculation valve)
You show secondary air injection check valve
It is part 11727553063. In the BMW literature it is referred to as "Air Pump Control Valve (EGR)" You are correct that while it does not recirculate the exhaust gas back to the cylinders which is what an EGR does, it is commonly known as an EGR valve in the M54 engines.
For those following this for curiosity and learning, the way this valve works with the air pump is by supplying air into the exhaust system to reduce tailpipe emissions. The reason it runs only for a short time and during cold starts is because of the fuel rich mixture needed during the cold starts. A lot of fuel with limited air to facilitate cold starts means that high quantities of unburned hydrocarbons are produced. Since the catalytic converter is not warm enough to to its job at this point, this "secondary air" is injected into the exhaust to reduce pollution. This is said to also heat the catalytic converter faster although I am not sure as to why that is
Correct part number and job description. This is check valve. Not EGR.
EGR job on this type of engines doing VANOS system.
Can you please tell me where the pump valve hose travels to? The thin black hose on mine cracked but I can’t seem to find the other end of the hose and its destination
Hi. Check out this diagram. I think this is what you are asking
www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=AW33-USA---E46-BMW-325i&diagId=11_2203#11611312737
Back of the intake manifold make sure to check a diagram of some sort there are a few different holes 2 connect to eachother theough the black and white selenoid and one needs plugged and one is the hole that you kees to route to from the air pump
After all..........God Dammit today's BMW brand/////
Nice video and Good job, it was very interesting. Thank you ///////////////////
My smog test says that the obd not ready already run my car for 150 miles after i replace the battery can yoy help me on this one please
Hi. OBD reset is not only a factor of miles, it is also a factor of "cycles." Meaning, the car has to go through multiple cycles of cold starts. So, I would not be alarmed by this. Instead, I would continue to drive the car as usual for a few days under normal conditions.
@@ErolEskinazi thanks and I'll drive it for more days
Should this thing be hot after driving a lot.
It should be no more or less than the temperature of the engine bay. So I would say warm to the touch but definitely not hot like the engine since it has no moving parts (after the first minute of startup) not hot gases, oil, or coolant running to it.
How could i get ready my Secondary air pump, all of my sensors are ready except this i drove it for 1 hr just the SAP doesnt get ready. Im going change the hose first i saw sign of wear. It has no codes .Thank you.
Did it work?
The secondary air pump test is done at cold start leaving car idle for about 3 minutes without driving. If pump is working check o2 sensors bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1. They sense the lean condition at start up. Also check for vacuum leaks.
Thank you! Great vídeo! I will do this on my car to check my pump
Glad it helped
Your engine is clean 🧽 bro 👍🏻
Appreciate it
When I check mine, the air pump blows fine. However I never feel anything coming out of the exit hose when disconnected. The pump stops, and still feel nothing coming out of the hose. When I disconnect the vacuum line to the check valve and put a vacuum gage on it, it reads zero. Does this mean the check valve can still be good and maybe the vacuum check valve at the back of the engine is what is bad causing the air pump check valve not to work?
If you set up the test exactly the way I did it in this video you should
A) in the first minute feel a very strong air flow coming out of the pump. This shows that the pump is working
B) in the first minute, while the pump is pumping, when you put your finger on the detached side of the plastic hose, you should feel a faint suction or nothing. That shows you that the check valve is open.
C) after about a minute, the air pump should stop.
D) a few seconds after that, when you put your thumb on the hose that you disconnected, you should feel absolutely nothing. There should be no suction. . This shows you that your check valve has closed.
Based on that, if I am understanding your description properly, i actually believe that your car is fine.
What if the check valve is not blowing any air at all..
If you set up the test exactly the way I did it in this video you should
A) in the first minute feel a very strong air flow coming out of the pump. This shows that the pump is working
B) in the first minute, while the pump is pumping, when you put your finger on the detached side of the plastic hose, you should feel a faint suction or nothing. That shows you that the check valve is open.
C) after about a minute, the air pump should stop.
D) a few seconds after that, when you put your thumb on the hose that you disconnected, you should feel absolutely nothing. There should be no suction. . This shows you that your check valve has closed.
I believe you are asking about step B. Check valve would not be blowing anything. That is no reason for concern. See if you can feel a faint suction from it. That would be the normal behaviour
Can a bad valve be related to a P0041 code?
malimag99 I don’t think so. That’s a O2 sensor related code. Check this article. www.obd-codes.com/p0041
Merhabalar Erol bey bu eğer valfi P0171 & P0174 arızasını sebep olabilirmi araç e60 m54 b30
Samet Bey hayir. P0171 & P0174 hatalari vakum kacagi. RUclips dan "Vacuum Leak" diye bakarsaniz bulursunuz. Maalesef sebebi 10 adet degisik sey olabilir. Bizim Amerika'li bir arkadasin guzel bir videosu var. ruclips.net/video/QiqUAF0zxCk/видео.html Suradan bakabilirsin.
@@ErolEskinazi teşekkürler herşeyi denedim bı maf kaldı deyismedik büyük ihtimal ondan kaynaklanıyor galiba
@@sametyel4647 BMW sahiplerinin kaderi bu maalesef :-(
Hello muy car just stop don't starts and I can smell gasoline un the engine culd you advise I Will apreciate thakn you regrds...
Merhaba Erol bey. SAI’nin boşta olması araçta basınç kaçağına ve performans kaybına sebep verebilir mi? Audi 1.8T de gözlemlediğim. Pompa hortumları kayıp durumda EGR dışarı bakıyor ve EGR’nin diğer ucu selenoidlerden geçerek emme manifolduna bağlanıyor. Teşekkürler video için
Merhaba. Secondary Air Pump in bosta olmasi performansi etkilemez. Amaci, arac soguk sartlarda balsatildigi zaman, manifolda taze hava verip egzoz gazındaki carbon monoksidi (emisyon) azaltmaktir. Vakum bolumu sistemdeki nemi de alir, ve bunun katalitik konvertirin omrunun uzatildigi da soylenir. Yani -10 C nin altindaki startlarda 30 saniyelik bir emisyon gorevi var o kadar.
@@ErolEskinazi Anladım Erol bey. SAI nedeniyle p0411 arıza kodu mevcut. Edindiğim bilgilerde bu arıza kodundan kaynaklı performans kaybı vb durumlar görülebilirmiş. Audi 3.0 kullanıcısı Sai pump değişimi ile performans ve a/t vites geçişleri sorunun düzeldiğini dile getirdi. Bu yüzden sizinde bilginizi almak istedim. Teşekkürler
@@resulakkoyun1394 P0411 Kodu normal, gerisi bence alakasız. Umarım düzeltirsin. Bol şans.
Slm Erol Ben Almanyadan Osman Video icin tesekürler bu pompa tam olarak ne ise yariyor?
Tesekurler kolay gelsin
Osman Yazar merhaba. Bu normal arabalarda EGR valve olarak geçen parçanın dengi. Motorun ilk çalıştığı ve benzinin fazla miktarda silindire pompalandığı ilk ısınma dakikalarında, hava kirliliğini azaltmak için egzosa hava basan motor. Tek görevi motor ve katalitik konvertör soğukken yanmamış karbonların havaya katılmasını azaltmak. Katalitik konvertör ısınıp görevini yapmaya başlayınca devreden çıkıyor.
Code PO456???
Excuse me my friend. Do you speak spanish? I need your help about this pump air.
Unfortunately no
@@ErolEskinazi a ok, thanks a lot bro.
@@ErolEskinazi turkce
And again...BMW M54 engine doesn't have EGR VALVE!!!
It is part 11727553063. In the BMW literature it is referred to as "Air Pump Control Valve (EGR)" You are correct that while it does not recirculate the exhaust gas back to the cylinders which is what an EGR does, it is commonly known as an EGR valve in the M54 engines.
Estoy buscando el código p1415 BMW 2006
Traducción español porfa