Absolutely BONKERS Virginia Beach surf 12/18/2023 5-7ft occasional 8-10ft. POV Surfing 5’9 dominator

Surfed 2 hours. South of S-turns. Low tide going mid. Semi strong S to N drift.
Swell was ESE. Strong WSW wind. Air was low 50s. Water was low 50s degrees. Was in a Hyperfreak 4/3, 5 mil booties, 3 mil gloves and wind cap. All that rubber was a perfect combo for the day.
THE SURF!!! OooMmmGgg!!!! Biggest and best set up I’ve ever seen in VB. 5-7ft and consistent sets in the 8-10 range. A Prius could fit in the barrels of at least 1 wave every set. I went for 2 set waves and bailed(dove into the wave) on the first one. I wish I would have committed. It would have been epic although not makeable. The other set wave I took sectioned out in front of me and I cut towards the beach. Hindsight I think I could have pumped into it but I would have been blinded by the curtain of water. My other waves were of the 5-7ft variety. The set waves were near elevator drops. Air drops. I never felt anything under me until I started the bottom turn. Luckily my feet and hands knew where to place everything through years or repetition I suppose. The drops happened faster than I could think. I feel a confidence level up seeing how my body knew what to do automatically and place everything appropriately.
Very much day for pro’s and advanced. I feel this day was just 10% past my comfort level and 5% past my ability. In hindsight I wish I charged it more because I ended up getting hammered a bunch anyways. Should have made it a glorious hammering. I’d say I surfed this day but I did not charge it!!! Next time, if there ever is I’ll charge into it.
There was guy in the line up with a helmet on!!!

[@b1slyfox]

That's waist to chest high 😂