MASSIVE surf pounds San Diego
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- Опубликовано: 7 янв 2023
- One of the largest swells in the past 15 years hit the west coast on Friday January 6, 2023.
Thanks to surf forecaster Mike Durand with SwellMagnet for helping me sort out where to go for this swell. I was torn between Rincon and San Diego and opted to go where it would be biggest.
Thanks for watching. I'm Brad Jacobson and I'll sea ya on the sand.
Check out SwellMagnet's forecast and cams: swellmagnet.com 
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Can we all just respect that he added the video without music and let us hear nature's wrath instead :)
So much better imo to hear the waves
That’s one challenge with drone clips is can’t get the sound
That’s me at 8min with the broken board 😢😂, thanks for getting the clip!!
How difficult was the swim in?
Did you bring extras? There must have been a lot of broken boards that day!
Boards are temporary, memories are forever!
I take my hat off to you for being so brave to go out in those huge waves!!!!
@@T8minifreak not horrible, got pretty worked though
Mad respect for the guys who dropped in, had no clue what they were getting themselves into and then got spanked
I was clapped on repeat. Was worth it.
Being from San Diego it was an absolutely amazing experience to see these waves in person last week.
Big props to all the guys who paddled out- it's a blast watching guys who are used to riding 2-3 ft. waves deal with basically XL Pipeline-like conditions! Scary as HELL, but awesome stuff!
Damn, Im from San Diego too but I moved up to San Luis Obispo so unforunately I missed these huge swells :(((
Those ear infections are going to be even bigger 😂😂😂
Being from Arizona I too was absolutely amazed. XO, Kelly 😘
i remember s. jetty @ misssion had monster sets like this.
i was too focused on my academia at the time, as well as the daily, MX mule runs through tecate to enjoi.
dnt go looking for holes in the desert,, and the slew of misssing randos from '93, uhh, i mean, it fire'n bruhs
=D
visiting San Diego, I remember calm ocean waters nothing like this. Amazing!
I can’t imagine how stoked the guy around 3:20 felt. Even catching that monster wave would be exhilarating, but then ridding it into a fat barrel, then out the end? Magical.
That dude got SHACKED. Great ride.
@@MickeyD100what does shacked mean ?
I agree! Best ride of the day as far as the footage we just saw. Awesome
@@Fatherlogicto ride a good barrel.
He’ll be telling his great-grandkids about this day. Probably hasn’t slept in a week from the adrenaline
Yeah, yeah. I know a lot of experienced Hawaiian surfers scoff at big Cali. I have only surfed small Black's, but in talking with experienced locals, the cold water, the canyon set hold downs......it's a very humbling spot for the most experienced waterman.
Yeah definitely humbling even on the smallest days
Local checking in, we call it California.
😆 100% no doubt every North Shore local would be like: “Nah bruddah, that’s like 3-5 foot Hawaiian wit maaaaybe a 6 footah sneakin trew dar. Brah, if wees on the North Shore, I’d turn my lifted Tacoma around n go back ta bed fah dis”
Meanwhile, back in reality, I think a true assessment would be somewhere between that and whatever Surfline would/did call it (25-30ft with occ 80ft++).
I’d say 10-12ft with occasional 15ft coming through from time to time is reasonable. For those who surf or have surfed decent sized Blacks know it’s heavy water at this size. Not Jaws/Pipe/Waimea type-heavy, but shouldn’t be downplayed either.
Cold water is more dense than warm water
Hawaiians think they own the ocean they can be very pompous d heads out there not all of them of course just my experience
I grew up at Ocean Beach SD a few blocks from the ocean. Have childhood memories of being in those waters almost every day. I never really wanted to surf (ironically have always heavily preferred snow sports) but spent a lot of time swimming out as far as I could to the big waves and checking out the wildlife. Sharks, dolphins, and massive fish out there, all of them so passive.
When I was tiny it was leopard shark pup season, and all the pups came in right to the shore to feed and for safety. Dad took me out there and we stood barefoot in the water up to my waist, surrounded by these precious little creatures who were so curious about us.
So many nights spent falling asleep to sea salt air and occasionally, on really stormy days, if it was quiet enough, you could hear the waves crashing from blocks away.
Tons of times I'd just go down to the beach with my friends during storms, and we'd watch the absolutely massive waves they'd create. OB gets some really fun storm moments where the water pulls out from the beach as though a tsunami's about to happen, and then you get these massive waves rolling in and crashing against the pier, and when you were standing up there (after sneaking through the storm barriers) you could feel the full force of the ocean like a living being taking heaving breaths.
I might not be as keen on the ocean as I am on most other places, but I have to admit there's something very humbling about growing up next to an ocean. When you live next to something so massive and alien and forever alive, you lose any feelings of personal significance you once had, and trade them for a deep animalistic awe that never leaves you.
Ob ghetto by the sea lol
@@EmperorNerox geeked
@@EmperorNerox There's just no reason why it couldn't be like La Jolla or Del Mar, but I guess our planning board likes it this way. At least south OB and Sunset Cliffs is very nice, quiet at night, good place to live.
Cool write up. I grew up SD and took up surfing at 17 (1975) and drove to beach almost every early morning to check out morning glass surf before working at restaurant and college classes, OB a lot. And late day surfing at OB until dark. Then started to go to Del Mar to avoid crowds. Moved to east coast and occasional surf. More skiing and windsurfing
@@EmperorNerox MB for me but I was at OB every day as a toddler back in the early 50s.
BEST 15 minutes of the internet! The best of the best out there. Respect to all you surfers. I don't surf but could feel the tension, respect, fear, attack, and thrill. Great photography, thank you.
You should see The Endless Summer 1
My stomach is still in knots!
Repent to Jesus Christ “Let the morning bring me word of your unfailing love, for I have put my trust in you. Show me the way I should go, for to you I entrust my life.”
Psalms 143:8 NIV
K
Definitely an adrenaline rush to to paddle out in those waves.
It felt better getting out of the water alive, than catching the waves. Crazy day! Thank you for always bringing the awesome content!
Keep charging
People who haven't been in big surf have no idea just how hard the ocean is trying to kill you!
Nah. You're not a surfer, all they dream about is some day like this, they will be telling their kids and grandkids about it.
@@LeTrashPanda most of us San Diego surfers are used to no more than double overhead. A day like that was a once in a lifetime experience. And yes, it was very memorable, but it was a huge relief getting out of the water in one piece.
Lol couldn’t surf the boat launch at the shores!!!!! Hey how do you know you’re alive????
Paddled into that same thing in '83. After almost drowning, learned my lesson. Was very lucky I was a healthy and active 17 year old...or I'd be dead. Big wave surfers are very brave individuals! 🤙
Yup. See it in Hawaii all the time. Tourists have NO IDEA how powerful waves are, especially shore breaks. They see the locals in the surf so they think they can too. We tell them to stay off the rocks, they don't listen. Next thing you know, we're calling 911 after we drag them to shore. As kids we're made of rubber, been in stuff that would kill me today.
I have the exact same story for the exact same year 😮
I learned my lesson with big waves as well. When I’m watching these people in the water I always wonder how many of them have no idea what they’ve gotten themselves into. Especially in an area not used to massive swells. When you’re paddling to the shore for your life and getting pummeled the entire way is quite a scary experience.
@@jerrybnasty5115 Yeah, the waves busted up the End Cafe pretty good. Myself and two buddies tried to paddle out between sets. Will never forget that fear when that giant Wall of Death broke about 20 yards in front of us. Was held down so long I actually gave up...which I believe to this day is what saved my life. I popped up for one breath and was back down again. Dragged under the pier onto the North Side and finally got out. From then on, when it got bigger than I was comfortable with, I would sit on the beach. It only takes one of those...
@@DavidDavis311 Exactly! I've surfed with guys that can handle bigger surf, but I've also sat on the beach next to my board enjoying the show. 🤣
Lifelong San Diegan here; most of our county's surfers have little or no experience with massive waves. On any given day, our waves are far more likely to be far too small, than too big to handle.
Got to hand it to all that try to ride those big ones when they come in!
you can tell how cautious everyone is out there haha. get a hawaiin out there and they couldnt handle the cold! hahaha
…but so many gunny boards, like 7’6 x 19-20….?
@@ReggaeRedeemer hahah
Yep, San Diegans aren’t built for this. Certainly there’s some massive talent in SD both shortboard and longboard.
These guys are so brave! I don't have the balls to do it. 6-8ft is my limit. LOL! I'll be a spectator until this big stuff dies down. Great video 📹 👍! Thank you, Brad. 😊
Thanks for watching!
So true! 6-8 is my limit as well. San Diego looked like jaws
@@truthwarrior2149 OC was similar, there are some great vids if you search. Check a few days BEFORE the storm, that was a hint of how badly Nature would spank us with those storms.
This is the best coverage I've seen of the whole swell! Such a great vid. Can only imagine what it must have felt like to be in the water, let alone catch one of those bombs! Hats off to anyone who paddled out that day!
This run is of biblical proportions...the New Year Run of 23...truly EPIC
This run has been insane. Love it.
Much respect for everyone out there and just committing. I don't surf much anymore, but this makes me so happy to see my SD peeps killing it and having the time of their lives. Get it!!!!
Even if nobody was out there, I would have watch the excellent footage of these beautiful waves. I'm chained down work and at home unable to ever get beyond the county line, this is about as close I will ever get to seeing it in person. Thanks for the excellent photography.
When I was stationed at Camp Pendleton I learned to surf at Trestles on a long board. I was the only black dude out there. They had nothing but love for me and it motivated me to become part of “our world”. I moved up to the short board 3years later. I never had the fortitude to ride anything over 6 ft, so I’m stoked to see these guys killing it. What a great video, bruh.
Thanks! Love to hear your positive experience.
Ocean teaches you pretty clearly that we're all fucking equal! lol. i'm glad to hear it. and what a world to discover. cheers brother!
I was there that day! Chickened out and got outa the water before the waves hit. Mad respect to those in the water with those waves!🤙🏻
Like totally rad dude
That was your instinct telling you something 👍🏼
Went boogie board that day. It was insane!
@@msliz1029 yes ma’am
@@rogersmith434 mad respect✌️
Respect to the guys out there. This winter season is insane. Pow in the slope and swell in the shore. Yeew! 🤙
Best edit of this day at Blacks by far. Great job Brad! Thanks for putting in work getting the shots!
Imagine going for a hike at Torrey pines you get on a high cliff and in the distance you see a frickin tsunami coming your way
Never surfed Blacks. It's a powerful steep wave, not for novices or those who don't have endurance.
@@blockmanhatecommentguy6280I’d rather be in Torrey pines than mission valley!!
I'm an East Coast guy, have never experienced waves like that. I can't fathom even getting in the water with those monsters. Balls of steel.
5:10 This entire ride and even dive off is too sick
Bro dabbed so hard in the tube
fr that guy surfed it super well
Maximum respect to those guys, I can’t see any jet ski or safety boats like you often do, and to paddle onto one of those takes skill and balls. I hope you all made it home safely. Thanks for posting the video…I would love to see the drone footage! Personally I do no more than 4-6 ft on my body board or an inflatable lilo😂, it’s a good laugh trying to stay upright. Cheers from Paul , Southerndown, South Wales , UK . PS yes this is my 1980 Z28 Camaro 7.5L tuned up monster, I love old American cars 👌
I surfed the LJ area since 61. Only a few swells in that time were this big. Biggest I recall was in 81. That one had waves breaking 1/4 mile outside of the Crystal Pier. Next day we watched Horseshoe Reef at 25 plus Hawaiian scale-I rode the N.Shore there for a few years. One set’s surge came up the bluff and into the street at Hospitals. Great footage. Thanks.
I remember 81. It was definitely maxing out. People that didn't get to see it just won't understand.
@@mydogatemyhomework3768 I was there It was the first time I saw the cove breaking. I remember watching joe roper dominating the lineup that day.
Horseshoes closes out that big . So does most of LJ.. except the Cove. Casas has huge Hawaiian barrels.💪👍🌊🤙🤙🤙🦞Marine St. Local. M⚡U.....
What r u like 90 now. ??
@@rubberducky9925 not yet, but closing in on it.
I moved to San Diego from the Midwest in 1978 for a mid level career opportunity. I was assigned six associates to supervise. On the third day in the office one of them called me early in the morning and called off work. I asked him if he was ill. He chuckled a bit and responded "Surf's up. Welcome to California." It was a culture shock but I understood. We became good friends but I would never risk my life like this. I would feel safer in combat. Great video!
I made the three hour drive to rincon and had a dream session it was as good as it gets when the tide drained out a bit. I saw some waves in Ventura just spot checking that looked like they belonged at mavericks. What an unbelievable swell I hope everyone scored.
What I really appreciate about these surfers is that a lot of these waves closed out and they went anyway. That says a lot. Cheers mates!
I graduated from Point Loma High School in 1958. I surfed Sunset Cliffs, Ocean Beach and Wind 'n Sea on a ten foot Gordon and Smith board. I never saw waves like this or the number of surfers. We had one skeg (fin) and no tether to the board. I am now too old to carry a board let alone surf, however I loved the sport and enjoyed this video.
As a young kid in the 70s, I remember digging out my mom's old Beach boys and Jan and Dean albums and seeing waves like that on the covers....as a Socal resident since 1999, I've never see waves like these! Awesome vid!!!
I got hypothermic just looking at that dude trunking it. i remember maybe a handful of swells this big in my years surfing So. Cal. This is one for the books.
Anyone says California doesn't get like Hawaii never surfed a massive winter west swell. Mountains of water, close outs, clean up sets. These guys got the stones...kudos for just padding out.
Johnny on the spot! Hurricane in Baja meant huge shore break at Seal Beach 70s and 80s huge peaks massive lips... powerful...this is epic stuff for So Cal ✌️
Eric Underwood Class of 81 Downey High school CA ✌️
@@jamescoleakaericunderwood2503 Oh yeah...I remember Seal Beach shore break. Started surfing there in "59.
@@thevirtualcockpit5001 right on! Wow ..I bet the fishing was out of this world!
I got pummeled at SB bodysurfing one time...huge backwash dislodged me from the wave I was 12 feet in the air flying like a seagull then the huge lip hit me mid back drove me into the sand I actually did a summersault under the sand and then it spit me up on to the beach with both my heals CRAMPED up against my buttocks! Life guard had to run down and grab my arms and pull me out of there! Ha ha ha! ✌️
Amazing footage!!! Thank u for posting this epicness 🎉❤
Thanks for the coverage,Brad !
My pleasure!
Awesome video. I fell in love with Ocean Beach when my daughter lived there so this video warms my heart. These surfers are amazing.
Loving the waves and the Beautiful sound of the ocean , I miss the beaches in So Cal 😢
Outstanding performance by all surfers and great show 👏
Great footage Brad. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the footage! I can’t surf anymore, but this brings back lots of memories! 🤙🏻
Thanks so much for the amazing footage, it mesmerizing. I am an ocean, swimmer and respect, surfers for the ability to handle that energy.
There, was no need, to put commas in that last, sentence
You can really hear the ocean talking in this video. I surfed a long ass time ago in Cali. Never saw waves that big. Great video.
This is awesome, it had to be so much fun for these surfers to experience such big waves
1-9-23!!! Yep!! fantastic vid. Thanks for the play-by-play!! It helped me, I miss those spots as I’m stuk in north texass!! Cheers to all good people and thanks again!!
always look forward to clicking a new video of yours, Brad! friendly commentating, straight to the point surf footage, and some good wipeouts. one of the best surf channels around!
i always try to watch Brad's videos too! And some other channels, that i also like. (Beefs TV, for example)
@@vickryan for sure !!
@@nakedmongoose123 slap it high with some raw beef. That's something i try to say to everyone i meet.
@@vickryan hahahah
His work is tight, so yeah.
Does anyone remember Swamis Christmas Day around 1974. Same conditions, maybe a tad smaller. I went out and got sucked backwards over the falls, on about a 12-14’ break. I just let it bounce me all the way in and I sat with the photographers!!!
I do. 3 of us (John Ayres-RIP, Ed Arikian-Long Island, and me) jumped off the end of OB pier and paddled another 1/4 mile out to face 20’ monsters that were nowhere as clean as the ones in this great video.
The first wave I took bounced me 10 feet in the air and I lost my board. If a guy I knew (Jetty Eddy-RIP) who was watching us with about 20 others from the end of the pier hadn’t thrown me his board, I’m absolutely certain I would have died. The white water was 10’-15’ thick and you couldn’t catch a breath for several minutes!
That was the biggest day I’ve every seen OB get and it’s a story that I will never forget!
OB Locals forever!
Awesome! From a old surfer. Inspiring and great footage. Thank you for sharing.
Reminded me of the winter of 82-83....you guys are lucky to be out in this swell. Enjoy the ride!
3:15 into the video = Stoke of a lifetime 🤙
That was rad
A lot of the Hawaiian big wave surfers admit that cold water just makes everything more difficult, holding your breath is much tougher, along with the restrictiveness of the wetsuit. So even if the waves might not be a little smaller, the cold water even things out.
Yep, especially with a restrictive 4/3 wetsuit.
That's why the navy seals like to train the recruits there in hell week. Sadistic and beautiful.
Over the top. Thanks Brad!
I'm from SD really nice to watch this video thanks !
As a total non-surfer I have huge respect for these guys. They look so elegant and vulnerable on their tiny surfboards. Wish I had the skill and bravery to do this!
Wtf dude lmao
Those aren’t tiny boards
3:20 that dude claimed so hard after that choob he nearly knocked himself clean out 😆
No hate tho! I’d be stoked too, getting shacked like that out at 15ft Blacks! Heavy water that day for sure.
Awesome vid, thanks Brad!!! Loved and subscribed.
Thank-you, brings back memories using an Alan board at Seal Beach in the 80's...great video!
Holy Shit, that was awesome, it's talent no only surfing but to hold your breath for that long while taking a massive beating!! Double time!! LOL!!! 🌊
This is so amazing! Thank you for showing this waves and the surfers! God bless them
heiyo great video! was looking all over for footage the massive swell and yours is perfect! the scale of those waves is crazy as hell
This may be the only thing I miss about living in California; watching the surfers. Other than that? Nope, don't miss it one bit. Happy for these guys to be able to ride some massive swells.
I only bodysurf and NEVER in waves that BIG! That was Fun & Scary to watch, Serious Athletes to get out in that water. I remember going to watch a surf movie in La Jolla a long time ago called "Changes", a true life story about a surfer name Chris O'Rourke, Powerful! Thank You!!!!!
Best clip I’ve watched from this epic week!
Props to these guys for going out and pushing themselves. Im sure they all have some fun stories to tell after this.
This is Amazing to watch, thanks for filming, Phenomenal skills, and the waves are extreme, hope no one was hurt...or worse..always such a risk to venture into such a randomly wicked wave occurance as this was...😵💫
Brad, thanks for good editing and lack of a terrible soundtrack. We got to see the entire story of most of the waves, meaning paddle for position and takeoff which I really appreciate, rather than just choppy editing into lip bashes and wipeouts. Also, the natural sounds of the surf make for a very watchable video. Quality content!
If I hear Wipeout one more time....🤯
Excellent waves to start the year. Good on you bros!🤙
Great job covering this swell !..
Great footage! Thank you for using the ocean for sound rather than some crappy hard rock music.
In the 90's I remember sponging Crystal Pier waves nearly pier high. Not a surfer in sight just giant walls rolling in no shoulders anywhere. Took 2 waves barrels big enough to drive a bus through! Iv"e sponged other big day spots P.B, Wind and Sea, Marine etc but that was genuinely the most fear ive experienced riding waves.
I agree., San Diego has gotten even more dangerous since the border wall was constructed.
Great call and great footage!
Yea man .. Lucky men .. Beautiful swell..Great Video...Thank U
Looks like Hawaii. I didn't know surf. Got that big in San Diego. Anyway, very impressive
Given the rarity of storms like this, plus tech limitations in the past, this may have been the first time in history footage like this could be assembled.
You can really capture the size of the waves with surfers on them.
Best vid on RUclips so far in regards to our recent SD surf. Surprised there aren't more high quality vids like this uploaded to YT yet.
insane. thanks for sharing. grew up PB and worked in La Jolla for 16 years. this is amazing@!
Looks like such an epic morning. Massive!
It was incredible to watch. I could see the clean-up sets coming from the outside before those in the water could see. That was crazy
That backhand at 3:12 yeew
Those guys are so talented - fun to watch them.
Thanks from across the pond. Double thanks for just letting the ocean be the music.
8:30 I feel for this guy who knows when he’s committed to this outside wave his only chance is to outrun the shoulder hopper who you could tell felt the mistake
Anyone else notice the shark at 8:48?? 😮
Kelp
Whites can be seen from the cliffs there but that’s definitely kelp.
Amazing shots, thanks for sharing
Great video ‼️ thanks for sharing it!!
Thanks for watching!
About as good as Blacks gets... pretty nice holding the size for a beach break. I bet some places in Mexico were amazing as well as all up and down the coast.
And it looks like of couple of those guys dragged out their dad's old long boards... Thanks for the video. B
The only reason I'm a decent surfer is because of the hours I've put in at blacks. That wave taught me so much. It's been playful, downright mean, ugly, and beautiful.... It's always in my heart. I live far away from there now. But it's always in my heart.
This was dope af, i love SD!
YES!!! I was at Newport Beach in 1985 when it was like this. The surf emptied out and there was only like 6 of us in it. TOTALLY AWESOME!!!
Nice shots, especially rare was you showing the rider after the wave envelopes him and he makes it back to his board. Would have been nice to see footage taken from the beach level to compare size. Do waves look bigger from up on the bluffs?
Dude got kegged proper
Last time I saw it that big was 15 years ago ! I remember I’m the only guy that tries to paddle out a scripps pier it was breaking past the pier like this video touches on ! I tried next to the pier for 45 mins ! Nearly hitting the pillons like half a dozen times ! Ahhh I wanted it so bad !!!! Longest denial of my life ! Today I think I would have been terrorized! Wow what was I thinking!? I know ! No one was out !!!!!!!
I've never seen surfing footage like this from California before. I wonder if more waves are coming this weekend?
I'm so stoked you came down for this one! Best footage for this swell I've seen. Thanks for all the great content!
respect to all the brave guys who paddled out.
How this guy pulled this off, I will never know...(2:30)
Wasn’t his time 😅
Wanted to see the guy trunking it get a wave!
Me too. He tried on a few. I'm sure he eventually got one.
@@BradJacobson did you get any shots of your neck of the woods, heard it was big as well...
Remind me of winter 81-82, great post, thank you!
Great footage!
Some of the best may tag action ever. These guys are incredible.
Nice editing work, no dull spots.
So rad! Great work!
I don't think I've ever even seen a surf board shop in my life, but I found this video VERY enjoyable!!! 👍🏿
Kudos to our cameraman!! Great footage!!
Great video, awesome camera work! I had a lot of fun watching! ! Some pretty epic wipeouts ... Felt for the dude who broke his board...ouch! Loved the dude who surfed with swag...so snooooth! ☺️ Watching this made me super homesick. I grew up in South Carpinteria where Rincon point is our major surf spot. ,(Tar pits when you're too young to drive.) Think I'll be taking a road trip home soon ( after the storms ) Thanks for posting this! 😊🤙🏄
Much appreciation for showing these waves breaking in SD. Never been on a surfboard. If boards are breaking what's doing to bodies. Respect those mad skills, enjoyed it.
I used to live in La Jolla and body board every morning and every evening at the Shores. Never saw anything as beautiful as this. Wish I was in good enough shape to swim in the ocean again. Luv this video. 💓 Thank you for sharing.
Thanks!
Born and raised in LJ,love the video thanks alot.