When I lost a coil in my 15. I ran it on a single coil for years and still had great sound. Actually it gained more power over time. Thanks for the Video.
mine is also 15 and i just blew one of mine lol hopefully i can get the same results lol Ive had my sub for years, got it used and I have no money to get a new one
Really like what your doing with this series Sean. People that have been competing for a while know most of what your showing. However your making videos and explaining things very simply with proof that any enthusiast can follow along with and understand. Keep up the good work man!
This car you’re testing in is very efficient in the 60hz range , incredible numbers, the best enclosure I ever made had a 122dB @ 1 watt at 42 hz , 152 with a 1000 watt amp. If you’re wondering it was 4 15s in a 4th order bandpass tuned to 50 hz , the box was in the bed of a 1992 Ford F-150 , blow through, the box was ported into the cab , Dayton audio dvc 15s and a Memphis audio 1000 d
I have one 10" Subwoofer dual coil driver connected with only one coil as my amp doesn't support the OHMS load if I connect them both together, I know is not the best option, but it is the only way I can have it working, have been using this way since like 7 years ago, still works and sounds great.
can I use single sub with 2ohm? since it sounds better in my case idk why... when I wired 1ohm before it distorts a lot of clipping now with 2ohm sounds clearer?
I've been using 1 coil on my last subs from 5 months.. still was banging. When I copped my new subs is when I wired both coils. I don't do SPL just what sounds good to the ear. This is good information for those that says running 1 coils will damage your subs.. it's doesn't.. just lowers the power output.
Two things to note. If you're not in it for SPL but want good sound, use both coils. You will want all the power handling you can get, and get all the sensitivity out of the driver you can. The less sensitivity, the less definition. Secondly you should stay away from these types of subs if you want good sound. Why would you even consider running one coil when there's two? You gain nothing by doing so, and the driver was designed to use both. The driver just gets more lazy and inefficient.
ABOlsen69X At the time.. I was lazy and the sub box is mad heavy.. then here comes the winter ❄️ weather.. With these new subs I wanted to make sure that I did everything right because it’s backbreaking taking that box in and out of my ride.
Fkng outstanding! This just made me $100 richer😂 I've been arguing with my friend about this situation for a while, i don't understand how people can't see that it's like taking power away from it when you don't use both coils💡 It's simple as night and day, if you drive at night with only one headlight then your only going to be lighting up half of what you could/should be with both headlights😂 I know it doesn't take away half of the power by using 1 coil but it does take some power away from what it would/could potentially produce like you just proved, THANK YOU!👍👍👍👍
Only part where mine actually got louder was I have 4 dual 2 ohm mojos. Series parallel to 1ohm final. One of my coils on one sub went out. Didn't know about it for nearly 3 weeks. Honestly thought all 4 were banging. After one day watching the subs move. One seemed off. So I did an ohm check at final and was at 1.7 ohm. So I knew that sub was off somewhere. Turns out whole voice coil was out. So I plugged into just the good one, checked final and was back at 1 ohm again. Grant it. That poor thing gets hot fast af. But also, makes me think that sub was dead from the beginning or near beginning. Because this system never sounded so loud no that it's at 1 ohm and 4 subs moving hahaha. Although, not ideal and I'm getting a replacement
I hope you know it’s not taking power from the subwoofer it’s just not allowing the amp to push out as much because the ohms are higher like in my set up I’m doing right now I have a dual voice coil 15 two ohm but my amp is only rated for two ohm so that’s why I’m only connecting one voice coil because if you ran it at four would take a lot of power away but if you ran it at one it would destroy the amp as I plan on adding another 12 with this 15 that’s why I have a two ohm and not four because when I get this other one I can run them both at four ohm and then together they would drop back down to two
two requests. one: if you wire a resistor (changes ohms) in to the subwoofers speaker wires, would that be a more precise way to wire down, say for burping? other the the two choices of voice coil configurations. this way you could play around with impedance and also your frequency for the highest score. two: what happens if you wire down really really low, then play a frequency that would normally produce a high ohm resistance? would the increased power from the amp make the score higher?
Long long ago, nearly 20 years ago, there was a device sold that would do exactly what you're talking about. The idea was if you had a single voice coil you could wire lower. What we found was you gained power from the amp being at a lower impedance, but you gained no performance because that power generated was lost as heat in the device. It was also limited to 600 watts I think it was, that's all it would handle. Remember, those components have limits too. For the purpose of burping as you say, what most people do is wire in series for daily and parallel for burping. You change the impedance for no money and little effort. That is also part two of your question. If impedance rise is say 4x, wired to 2 ohms would play at 8 ohms and wired to 0.5 ohms would be 2 ohms during play so you do get a lot more power, which in turn makes the score higher.
Good video good information for new and experienced people it's nice to know someone cares about there customers understanding how products work and how to use them effectively
Another reason for the extra bl on 2 coils is they act as inductors on themselves going from a 4 to 8 layer coil gives well over 2x the bl since they build a stronger field off of each other
@@EMFAudio so i can guess that a dvc sub was intended to be ran on both coils right even though it will run on one coil as long as the power is cut in half of its total rated ..?? And by running one coil its only pushing half its total output .. just like a svc sub rated at 500w rms and you only give it 250w rms ..
Always use both coils... even if you have to wire up (series) [and/or wire back down if you have multi subs], it's better than only running one coil on a DVC subwoofer.
But is it bad to run on one coil giving it power because i know it's better to run 2 but my terminals off but I still need the sub so can I still slam it on 1 coil and not destroy it
Oh damn, Sundown built me an NS 10 v4 with a softer spider and (b/c they forgot to measure) said TS perimeters would all be the same except lower Fs, but your video makes clear more things would change. Trying to figure out how I can get TS parameters now
EMF Audio - It would great to test. The spider is way softer than standard, and me entering 25 hz Fs into WinISD made my box model much more closely to actual performance than stock Fs of 44 hz. Totally happy with the sub on passive radiators, but the specs remain a mystery. hunter callahan - I know. It’d be great!
Question: I know you got the TS parameters wiring it in series, but do you also wire the sub in series when you actually tested it for SPL? Just wondering. I know I usually wire mine in parallel to 1 Ohm to get more power.
1 amp per voice coil? 1 voice coil per channel (stereo or 4ch)? Watts per db? Spl vs box size? (Wanna go loud but dont want to take alot of space) When is 4th/6th order bandpass actually beneficial
1.) Yes you can use 1 amp per coil. Absolutely recommend using identical amps. Use a DMM and match gains. To get it exact: Take leads from one coil and reverse the connection so it is out of phase. Run a test tone. Start with volume about midway. Dial one or the other amps gain until there is no movement from the cone, use your hand to feel. Keep raising volume and repeat 1 step. Continue until you get to max listening volume. If the amps have phase dial, not switch, you might have to adjust to get to that sweet spot where there isn't any cone movement Reconnect sub leads correctly. 2.) Yes you can run each coil on its own channel. If there is separate gains for each channel, you can use the same steps in [1.)] 3.) There isn't a magic number, it's subjective to numerous variables. 4.) Box size is predicated by the subs t/s parameters. Get a sub that has needed specs. This link will calculate your subs enclosure size. www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxEnclosure/ 5.) More of a personal choice. Also 6th orders are usually large.
@@jackmills5071 no it won't. All that it does is use the motor force from the one coil against the motor force of the other coil. We are just doing this to dial in the gains ro match them. Once you correctly adjust it, the sub will stop moving. Then hook the wiring up correctly and enjoy.
My friends DD 612 was connected only on one voice coil by mistake. When I opened box after few months I realised that mistake. Will there be any permanent damage on this sub?
@@EMFAudio here's a question. To get 14v at all times . What step must be taken. I have a sundown SFb 5k .It said it is a 14v amp not sure what that means. Plz send link to video if there is 1
Hey EMF Audio..can you guys do a video on motor force..let's say two subs with identical soft parts but have two different motors?. One let's say rated at 1000rms with a average motor and one with monster size motor? What will be the output difference or over all quality difference? Keep up the technical videos guys. I'm learning a lot. @iInstallRVA
The motor isn't the only factor in power handling, and odds are if one was 1,000 watts and another one had a huge motor it wouldn't use the same coil so power ratings on the coil wouldn't be nearly the same either. Comparing everything the same but motors where that would work out, I could tell you what would happen but just saying it doesn't have the value as showing it. Showing it would require building 2 subs identical for no purpose other than the video.
so when only wiring 1 wouldnt the 1 coil get hotter alot faster on rated watts and cause a ton of wear on it or am i wrong i know heat transfers insanely well on copper. but i wanna know the logistics behind temperatures with only 1 coil wired because i got a dvc 1ohm and my amps only 1 ohm stable pends my taramps 12k ate shit on .5 ohms immediately
Awesome video! Love these demonstrations. I have a suggestion for another one. When wiring 2 dvc 4ohm subs together down to 1ohm a lot of wiring diagrams show 3 wires in 1 terminal. What's the best way you think this should be done.
Great videos is always and thank you for pointing that website out to go ahead and get all the apps and xs power stuff question I want to put a XS power under my GM truck but my truck takes I post what adapters do I need for any work cuz I see y'all have two types maybe three 🤔👍🏽
www.emfcaraudio.com/xs-power-551-side-post-adapter/ that would be the side post adapter you need, it works on the D and S series batteries. It will not work on the A or V series.
@@FLYGUYFOX 555 still works, just don't need the top post adapters in most cases. That's what I had in my truck and left them capped. They were out of 551's when I needed one so I got the 555. Did you order it from EMF?
So what would be the difference be if I hook up one side of two dvc subs in parallel? Final load of all four coils in parallel would be 1 ohm, amp can handle 2. Any help would be great
aside from the power handling dropping to half. is there any damage to the sub if you're not using full power or even close to full power? cause I have two DVC 4 ohm subs. BUT my amp gets hot running it at 2 ohms. the heat on amp dropped when using one coil
Since you tested the woofer parameters with the coils in series but did the spl test with them in parallel, would there be any difference in SPL if both configurations were tested? Assuming you achieved the same wattage in both tests.. My guess is the difference would be negligible, since the amp is large enough to achieve 750 into both configurations.
I've tested that in the past and found no difference in score, some people have claimed a difference but I think that is more the effect on the amp and how it's working because they were doing things like wiring at 0.25 ohm and 1 ohm with 1 ohm being louder, while clamping the same power.
I have a dual 2 ohm that can handle 500rms each coil, I only have a 400watt rms amp currently on 1 ohm bridged but have to be cautious, I will definitely disconnect one coil now
Hi, great video again. But if the sub was rated 750, would you want to power the 1 coil with 750?(at least not for SPL) also, how does this apply to someone who wants to power their dvc sub with an amp on each coil? I don’t know what the original question was, but it makes me wonder if the original question was about only having limited power and trying to find a stable impedance for the amp, so you might run 1 coil. Thanks again man, great videos
I mentioned in the video that you wouldn't want to do that for more than a burp because power handling is cut in half. For using 1 coil per channel, you can absolutely do that but with one caveat. The signal going into each channel must be the same. Left and right channels in tracks can be different sometimes, so best practice is to make sure it's a mono signal being split to each channel.
@@EMFAudio Thx for that reply i was reading along to find an answer to my own issue. I have (2) DVC subs with 4ohm coils coming in the mail but i have only a 800watt output 4 channel AB amp i dont think the amp will go below the 4ohm so i needed to know if i could home run single channels to each voice coil. I have already ordered the rca splitter so channel 1-2 get same signal and 3-4get the same and will be left and right respective to the head unit and box. Wish i could afford a set of mono amps but it just isnt in the budget so i will harvest the AB 2/3/4 channel i have been lugging around for 2 decades and put it back to work. I'm sure it puts out its rated per channel as it has blown a few subs, woofers, and 6x9's in its life time. Maybe time is running out for the old amp. I got some AudioPipe TXX-BD2-10 i snagged for 200 a pair on the way and a Qbomb10tb dual 10" box with the quad triangle ports to put them into. The web says the subs are 600watt rms so i am shooting for 150watts per channel from the old tired amp and see what gives up first. Pretty sure the amp will start identifying as a space heater...
@@jamesg8246 RMS ratings are a power over time. A brief amount of power won't generate enough heat to kill it. From that aspect given no mechanical limitations, you can play 5,000 watts on them fine, briefly.
Hey man I have a question. So I have two skar sdr 15s on a Orion xtr 2500. I’ve noticed recently that when I have my subs playing full tilt they almost shut off. I know I have sufficient power. I have a extra battery and a 250 amp alt on but it’s almost like the subs go into protect and stop working until I turn it back down. I started the big three yesterday but this has been going on for a little while. I’ve only ran a positive from the battery to the alt and I’ve not run a ground from the motor or battery just yet. Do you have any ideas as to what’s happening I know my amp is capable of stupid amounts of power. I appreciate it 💪🏻
Do you have a volt meter reading at the amp? That could give you a baseline for what's happening, then look at solutions. FYI, subs don't go into protect, amps do. It's possible you're making the subs reach a point in excursion which trigger the amp shutting off though, because they're jumping the gap or going sideways.
ok ok this makes sense, so for example if my sub claims 800rms 1600max thats using both VCs. if i end up using just one VC that means its 400rms 800max?
In it's most crude form, yes. There are other factors too which are in the video. It's possible to take even less power because of insulation from the coil not being used, depending how the coil is wound.
Bro... my amplifier produces 4 ohm in bridged mode and the subwoofer is dual voice coil 4 ohm each, so it is okey to connect only one voice coil... right ? Kindly pay attention to my problem...
I got a 12" type r for free from a coworker.. One coil reads 2ohm, the other 0. What are the chances that only 1 coil is blown vs just disconnected internally? Can a sub with 1 blown coil still sound "ok"
I saw a video years ago on RUclips about a guy bashing Orion hcca subs cuz one blew the dust cap off and he only had one coil per sub hooked up . Had no idea what he was doing probably clipped them to death on one coil per sub lol.
Great job on the content. I was hoping you would throw in the coils wired in series as well to see if there was a continued decline in spl as the impedance rised on the same clamped power. Overall great stuff though.
Yes, between parallel and series the impedance rise would be different, but with the same clamped power you won't see any difference, unless the amplifier itself does something different as a result of the impedance. That's as much as I can say without letting the cat out of the bag.
EMF Audio thanks for the reply. I’m just getting into spl in the stock 1000 class dbdrag, I appreciate the content you put up. On my off time when I’m not testing , I’m trying to be a sponge and take in as much as I can from people I think have experience and actual knowledge on the subject. Keep up the great content!
YES! You can do that, however, it is very critical that the input signal be exactly the same. Even if the sub output is summed mono from the HU I have seen different voltages from each output before. If it's not summed, you'd want to use a splitter from 1 to 2 going into the amp.
That's exactly what a dual voice coil speaker was made to do! They were invented as a way to flatten the unruly old subs response. Before EQs were invented they used notch filters to isolate the frequency with the peak running in reverse polarity. Once EQs came out Dual voice coils were were no longer needed. Then someone sees that old patent and makes a similar sub but uses both in same polarity, once again proving very few new things are ever really new. Things haven't changed much since 1930. Most new patents are bought up by big companies like GE who sits on it just to make sure that idea is never made, allowing them to continue making the same thing they already makibg with huge profits, only changing over to the hiding patent items when they see other companies developing a similar idea. Then we think it's brand new but in reality they're slowing advancement for their own profit. Look into old patents snd you'll see all kinds of new tech that is actually old news to those in the know.
Make a box like we did when this all started. It's called a death box, it's made in a way that you can mount a sub then slide one chamber into another chamber so you can change the volume of the box. You slide it till you get best output. Then you mark it and do the math or copy the dimensions and then you know exactly in the real world using real dimensions immediately. One box can be used to find the perfect size for any driver as long as you make the ends of the box big enough to mount the dtiver. Adaptors are used or multiple end caps with different sizes holes, using a different end cap makes it easier to figure the total internal volume since your keeping all demensions constant. Changing shape of boxes affects the output. Making boxes without any parallel sides defeats any standing waves. I'll stop here so you can do the research yourself
@@robertzinda9818 this is a very good piece of information, but I really want tips on competing in competitions, since this comment I have built a wind monster 6-18's on like 40k watts, I really want to win some competitions but idk what I could or could not compete in
No idea, I know the whole sub weighs about 32-34 lbs. Have you ever noticed that the best subs don't list a magnet weight as a spec? There is a reason for that.
Looks can be deceiving, some put large plastic boots on them or extend the basket around the motor to make them look bigger than they are. The SA-15 is genuine in it's size though, the rubber boot just goes over the magnet.
EMF Audio yeah that i know, Some companies do everything for a profit. was thinking of buying a digital designs redline 615, but this sundown sa-15 looks also a great sub
Now ... What about 1 channel or 1 amp by coil ? Dual amp on 1 sub not strapped together or a stereo amp having a channel on each coil of the sub ... Any comments ? A video maybe ? ... Thank you ...
Have any videos on subsonic filters? What they do and how they work? I’ve never really messed with them too much other than if I move it a certain way I get less bass🤷🏽♂️ also slope on head-units? Thanks!
@@mikecheeze4312 It's just normal ports but on the outside. Can also change the length if they are on the inside and the result is a bit better in my experience.
@@EMFAudio so really it's because it won't fit vs being more easily interchangeable? Is it common to build a ported box that the port doesn't fit in? Forgive my ignorance but I've haven't seen but a couple boxes with "out reaching ports" or whatever they're called
@@EMFAudio Then it would in general be better to use a single slightliy wider but shorter port. I have tuned some enclosures to go very deep and very loud without having this long ports.
So Wait You Put 750 To One Coil. Doesn't That Mean You Over Powered That Coil? That's Means You Can't Play as Long At 750Watts One One Coil Than 750 On Two Coils Right?
Is wiring a svc and a dvc sub with same rms. And size say 12''okay pple say '' its okay its the final ohmrage that matters but i think that x_max matters i read that dvc have lower x max than svc and air moved by cone=bass=(x_max*cone area) ellaborate this please
@@EMFAudio I got two subs like that and I can't tell the difference when I replace them with two that match both sound good and both still hit 147db and there junk kicker comp
Would someone please explain to me why anyone would want a transducer with such horrible efficiency! I've tried to get on board with the ideas behind these kinds of drivers and they just don't cut it so please tell me why I would use a driver like that!
Well, if you know what you're doing, and what actually is needed to create good sound, you don't want a driver like this. I can't remember ever seeing a driver with such a low sensitivity. I don't think most people realize that the low sensitivity equates to a driver that has very poor resolution and definition. When listening to music, the excitement is in the definition. This is what's wrong with the car audio world today. Companies that produce drivers that are not very good, that cost too much, and need a lot of power just to "burp". Hell, if you ask a company like Sundown or B2 Audio how they test their drivers when they make their claims of power handling, they can't give you a straight answer. They don't go by any standards. While you have companies like Scanspeak, Dynaudio, Focal, Morel, Gladen and Stereo Integrity who are actually doing it right, you have a ton of companies selling snake oil - especially in the SPL world.
@@AB-80X Yup I totally agree and yet we still have this type of driver being what people ask for and if you explain to them why it's not a good thing they automatically dismiss you with their confirmation biased because it's what all the competitors are doing 🤔
@@jedpetersen3806 If you want to play lows well, you're going to have that type of sensitivity. Additionally, that spec means less than you're making it out to bed. Example, in this very video a 4 dB difference in sensitivity and a 1 dB difference in testing. It isn't an indicator of how loud it will be. Competitors aren't playing lows, and don't use this type of driver.
@@AB-80X A low sensitivity has nothing to do with accuracy, or resolution, or definition. I'd be interested to know what you think is a "good" driver, so I can tell you why it's not for every purpose the subs you say aren't good. I don't know about B2, but Sundown can tell you how they get a power handling number. I can tell you how EMF does it too. FYI, Stereo Integrity is located INSIDE Sundown Audio, literally, inside, in the middle of their building. You are somewhat right in that Sundown doesn't go by the "standards" you speak of, because if they did, car audio people would blow everything up. They use much more conservative ratings, as do we.
@@EMFAudio Yeah I know one needs excursion for low frequency reproduction but the idea of quality audio is to achieve a linear reproduction of frequencies which means those inefficient low-frequency drivers must be implemented in multiple driver applications in order to achieve a high enough sensitivity to be equal to higher frequency drivers plus I realize that a driver's sensitivity is not an indicator of how loud it will be but it is an indicator of how inefficient it is and how much power it requires to get loud where an efficient driver will get much louder with less power so as I reiterate why would anyone want to have such a low efficiency driver 🤔
You stated that with only a single coil being used, the rated power would be half. Now you ran the single coil test using essentially double rated power? Wouldn't it behove you to also run the DVC test with double rated power or run the SVC with half rated power for the test to be anywhere near equal? Thought....
If I did double power on both coils that wouldn't show a valid comparison because more than 1 factor was changed. Power handling is a thermal limitation in this case. If I ran that same power over time it would eventually fail. For seconds at a time it will not be effected by the additional power.
you will get higher spl numbers at higher frequencies. this sub peaks at 60Hz so he tested it at 60Hz. Most people don't tune boxes to 60Hz except for SPL competitions. Getting 140db at 30Hz is going to be a lot tougher than at 60Hz.
EMF Audio I watched yours and the sundown vid and the barevids box rise and it made me want to run my e series 12 at 4 times rated power for competition and some serious daily bump however I do still turn it down a bit to ensure I never clip
@@EMFAudio no not dead shorting, you add a resistor changing the impedance of the second coil, and that adjusts something it's been along time. I'm not saying this is something you should do, I just remember reading about it and how you can vary some reading, or how the sub acts , the article talked about putting a potentiometer in between the terminals so you can dial it up or down to change it. I'm really gonna have to go find that article again. Edit: also I'm not comparing it to your video, about leaving the coil unhooked. This video just brought it to mind and I remember thinking that was so neat when I was 14-15 years old
@@EMFAudio I found this online, it isn't the article but a post relating to it, basically it says using a resistor across the second coil you can adjust the Q to vary the sub for different boxes This is the post I found that explains it. It was post on Nov 11th 2005 and the article I read was a good bit older than that. By placing a resistor across the second coil will allow you to adjust the Q of the driver, so it can be optimised for different enclosure types. I own an Ascendant Audio Atlas subwoofer which is a DVC driver with the second coil designed for the sole purpose of adjustable Q. The coil that gets power from the amp is a 4ohm load, and the coil for adjusting the Q is a 2ohm laod. By shorting the 2ohm coil, a low Q is available which would be best for a sealed box. By leaving the 2ohm coil open, a high Q is available for infinite baffle designs. By placing a resistor of 1.5 ohm (equal to the DCR of the coil), a mid Q is available for ported designs. Keep in mind that with only utilizing one coil, you decrease BL (motor strength), and decrease power handling. I had originally used my Atlas subwoofer in a mid Q design, but have found that wiring both coils in series for a 6ohm driver works quite a bit better.
Mhm, so sensitivity is 83db. Doing the tests with both coils, at exactly 7:35 when it's displaying 17watts and 117db. How is that possible ? If we do the math 83 at 1 meter at 1w. 86 at 2w 89 at 4w 92 at 8w 96 at 16w. How much gain at that particular frequency does the box give ? that's like 21db difference. Yes i know it's in a car with a box tuned at the peak frequency but god damn 21db is a LOT.
Cabin gain can make huge effects I had a t line tuned to 29hz for home audio put it in a ford ranger and 31hz was insane put it in a blazer sounds dirty and muddy it's not always a drastic difference but there's more to play into it that I don't even fully understand myself lol
First off, have you tested any dual 2 ohm drivers against the same makers single 4 ohm version of the same driver, I think sn important aspect to test would be heat generated I the gap since that's what kills most speakers unless they have fused tinsel leads like CV HED subs. The other thing I need to ask is how many know when the dual voice coil was invented and why it was invented? Subs first appeared in movie theaters once sound was added to movies. The subs they had back in the 1930s were not well behaved and had huge peaks at certain levels that they (at that time) no way to flatten the response. There were no EQs, so they added the second coil to act as a way to correct the response by running a reverse polarity signal at those frequencies that had the big peaks. This was probably done by using complex passive notch crossovers and resistors to get the signal dialed in as close as possible. This is just one more example of how most things we deal with today are far from bring new ideas
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
When I lost a coil in my 15. I ran it on a single coil for years and still had great sound. Actually it gained more power over time. Thanks for the Video.
mine is also 15 and i just blew one of mine lol hopefully i can get the same results lol Ive had my sub for years, got it used and I have no money to get a new one
im looking I cant find exactly how to wire only one coil. I am an audio noob can you help? what wires go where on the speaker side
How did u know what coil was trashed?
@@gtstanton9785 ohm meter
@@twangyyy18888 you dont. Just use it as a single voice coil. Use a meter to find out what side is bad.
Really like what your doing with this series Sean. People that have been competing for a while know most of what your showing. However your making videos and explaining things very simply with proof that any enthusiast can follow along with and understand. Keep up the good work man!
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thx ✌🏾
Excellent video! This is something I’ve always wanted to see tested.
This car you’re testing in is very efficient in the 60hz range , incredible numbers, the best enclosure I ever made had a 122dB @ 1 watt at 42 hz , 152 with a 1000 watt amp. If you’re wondering it was 4 15s in a 4th order bandpass tuned to 50 hz , the box was in the bed of a 1992 Ford F-150 , blow through, the box was ported into the cab , Dayton audio dvc 15s and a Memphis audio 1000 d
Awesome 👌
Yeah , the pickup truck blow though builds aren't as common nowadays 🙄
I would like to see a video on how you would wire a 2 ohm dual voice coil, an a 4 ohn dual voice coil sub together!...
I really like your vids i watch them every week
My friend just hooked up 1 side. Do you know what this coudlve done?
I have one 10" Subwoofer dual coil driver connected with only one coil as my amp doesn't support the OHMS load if I connect them both together, I know is not the best option, but it is the only way I can have it working, have been using this way since like 7 years ago, still works and sounds great.
And you have a back up coil !
@adventureswitheddie6444 is still working with the single coil connected, I thought the same as you. I really don't care if it burns.
Will running one vc on a dvc sub run amp hotter ?
The amp is dumb, it knows no differently.
How about showing the distortion levels one vs two coils? (also, always run all coils per sub or you risk damage)
Thank you! Makes sense about the power being cut in half when using a svc on a dvc sub, but needed to hear it.
this series is great, really glad youre doing it.
can I use single sub with 2ohm? since it sounds better in my case idk why... when I wired 1ohm before it distorts a lot of clipping now with 2ohm sounds clearer?
If your wired to 1 ohm, it sounds like your amp isn't 1 ohm stable, which is why it was clipping.
@@EMFAudio it says One ohm stable. But idk why I get weak power from sub and clipping amp is 1500rms
@@grikisgrikis2779 what amp is it? It's possible you have insufficient electrical so you have low voltage which will cause clipping.
@@EMFAudio pride mezzo
@@EMFAudio stock electricity no agm no big three only one small capacitor
I've been using 1 coil on my last subs from 5 months.. still was banging. When I copped my new subs is when I wired both coils. I don't do SPL just what sounds good to the ear. This is good information for those that says running 1 coils will damage your subs.. it's doesn't.. just lowers the power output.
Two things to note.
If you're not in it for SPL but want good sound, use both coils. You will want all the power handling you can get, and get all the sensitivity out of the driver you can. The less sensitivity, the less definition.
Secondly you should stay away from these types of subs if you want good sound.
Why would you even consider running one coil when there's two? You gain nothing by doing so, and the driver was designed to use both. The driver just gets more lazy and inefficient.
ABOlsen69X At the time.. I was lazy and the sub box is mad heavy.. then here comes the winter ❄️ weather.. With these new subs I wanted to make sure that I did everything right because it’s backbreaking taking that box in and out of my ride.
Fkng outstanding! This just made me $100 richer😂 I've been arguing with my friend about this situation for a while, i don't understand how people can't see that it's like taking power away from it when you don't use both coils💡 It's simple as night and day, if you drive at night with only one headlight then your only going to be lighting up half of what you could/should be with both headlights😂 I know it doesn't take away half of the power by using 1 coil but it does take some power away from what it would/could potentially produce like you just proved, THANK YOU!👍👍👍👍
The headlight analogy is quite good, I should use that.
Only part where mine actually got louder was I have 4 dual 2 ohm mojos. Series parallel to 1ohm final. One of my coils on one sub went out. Didn't know about it for nearly 3 weeks. Honestly thought all 4 were banging. After one day watching the subs move. One seemed off. So I did an ohm check at final and was at 1.7 ohm. So I knew that sub was off somewhere. Turns out whole voice coil was out. So I plugged into just the good one, checked final and was back at 1 ohm again. Grant it. That poor thing gets hot fast af. But also, makes me think that sub was dead from the beginning or near beginning. Because this system never sounded so loud no that it's at 1 ohm and 4 subs moving hahaha. Although, not ideal and I'm getting a replacement
I hope you know it’s not taking power from the subwoofer it’s just not allowing the amp to push out as much because the ohms are higher like in my set up I’m doing right now I have a dual voice coil 15 two ohm but my amp is only rated for two ohm so that’s why I’m only connecting one voice coil because if you ran it at four would take a lot of power away but if you ran it at one it would destroy the amp as I plan on adding another 12 with this 15 that’s why I have a two ohm and not four because when I get this other one I can run them both at four ohm and then together they would drop back down to two
two requests. one: if you wire a resistor (changes ohms) in to the subwoofers speaker wires, would that be a more precise way to wire down, say for burping? other the the two choices of voice coil configurations. this way you could play around with impedance and also your frequency for the highest score. two: what happens if you wire down really really low, then play a frequency that would normally produce a high ohm resistance? would the increased power from the amp make the score higher?
Long long ago, nearly 20 years ago, there was a device sold that would do exactly what you're talking about. The idea was if you had a single voice coil you could wire lower. What we found was you gained power from the amp being at a lower impedance, but you gained no performance because that power generated was lost as heat in the device. It was also limited to 600 watts I think it was, that's all it would handle. Remember, those components have limits too. For the purpose of burping as you say, what most people do is wire in series for daily and parallel for burping. You change the impedance for no money and little effort. That is also part two of your question. If impedance rise is say 4x, wired to 2 ohms would play at 8 ohms and wired to 0.5 ohms would be 2 ohms during play so you do get a lot more power, which in turn makes the score higher.
my buddy ran those 20 years ago, we called them choke coils. the amp got hot and so did the coils but he swears it was louder!
@@billybullfrog the mind can play tricks with the ears.
Do a vid on subwoofer and box box placement on how it affects phase issues of sound waves. I know trunk owners will find that interesting.
That would be quite involved and I'd have to have several vehicles to demonstrate. Not impossible, but very time consuming.
Good video good information for new and experienced people it's nice to know someone cares about there customers understanding how products work and how to use them effectively
Can using only 1 Vc on a dvc sub physically harm the sub? Such as tearing the surround etc?
Another reason for the extra bl on 2 coils is they act as inductors on themselves going from a 4 to 8 layer coil gives well over 2x the bl since they build a stronger field off of each other
So basically which is better in terms of getting more out of my sub? using both or one coil?... And is it possible to burn only one coil over?
You should always use both coils, watch the video. You can burn 1 coil but the other will be on the verge at the same time.
@@EMFAudio ok.. Thanks
How about the best box design software, how to use it too
He has already posted a video about box design software.
ruclips.net/video/VCYP7CRT5No/видео.html
So you said that a dvc sub rated at 750W rms is for both coils combined... what if you fed one coil with 750W rms ??
It would die quicker, that's technically double rated power.
@@EMFAudio so i can guess that a dvc sub was intended to be ran on both coils right even though it will run on one coil as long as the power is cut in half of its total rated ..??
And by running one coil its only pushing half its total output .. just like a svc sub rated at 500w rms and you only give it 250w rms ..
@@ACommenterOnRUclips That's all explained in this video.
How can I fix it if one coil isn't working??
make sure it's wired correctly and if so send it off the be reconed but before you send it off see if your amp is malfunctioning
Always use both coils... even if you have to wire up (series) [and/or wire back down if you have multi subs], it's better than only running one coil on a DVC subwoofer.
But is it bad to run on one coil giving it power because i know it's better to run 2 but my terminals off but I still need the sub so can I still slam it on 1 coil and not destroy it
@@BuddaDriftsYes you can, just don't get much movement like with 2 of them. Enjoy
Sweet! Can you do an episode on how we can calculate TS parameters without fancy equipment if possible?
You can't, it requires equipment. Fs is the only thing you can figure out otherwise.
Oh damn, Sundown built me an NS 10 v4 with a softer spider and (b/c they forgot to measure) said TS perimeters would all be the same except lower Fs, but your video makes clear more things would change. Trying to figure out how I can get TS parameters now
@@mattalones93 the difference in specs will be negligible.
mattalones93 I wish some one would because I'm to poor to afford the equipment to test
EMF Audio - It would great to test. The spider is way softer than standard, and me entering 25 hz Fs into WinISD made my box model much more closely to actual performance than stock Fs of 44 hz. Totally happy with the sub on passive radiators, but the specs remain a mystery.
hunter callahan - I know. It’d be great!
this may be way off.. but i imagine you also loose a bit of efficiency by the active coil's flux fields inducing voltage in the non active one.
yup
Question: I know you got the TS parameters wiring it in series, but do you also wire the sub in series when you actually tested it for SPL? Just wondering. I know I usually wire mine in parallel to 1 Ohm to get more power.
This is something I’ve been wanting to know. So very useful vid.
what are the effects on qts if you short or use a resistor across the unused coil vs leaving it disconnected?
1 amp per voice coil?
1 voice coil per channel (stereo or 4ch)?
Watts per db?
Spl vs box size? (Wanna go loud but dont want to take alot of space)
When is 4th/6th order bandpass actually beneficial
1.) Yes you can use 1 amp per coil. Absolutely recommend using identical amps. Use a DMM and match gains.
To get it exact:
Take leads from one coil and reverse the connection so it is out of phase. Run a test tone. Start with volume about midway. Dial one or the other amps gain until there is no movement from the cone, use your hand to feel.
Keep raising volume and repeat 1 step. Continue until you get to max listening volume. If the amps have phase dial, not switch, you might have to adjust to get to that sweet spot where there isn't any cone movement
Reconnect sub leads correctly.
2.) Yes you can run each coil on its own channel. If there is separate gains for each channel, you can use the same steps in [1.)]
3.) There isn't a magic number, it's subjective to numerous variables.
4.) Box size is predicated by the subs t/s parameters. Get a sub that has needed specs. This link will calculate your subs enclosure size.
www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxEnclosure/
5.) More of a personal choice. Also 6th orders are usually large.
@@stevebrown1515 much appreaciated as ivr been waiting for a vid but i doubt hell respond
No problem.
Happy bassin'!!!
@@stevebrown1515 putting full power to a coil that isn't moving seems like a surefire way to burn it.
@@jackmills5071 no it won't. All that it does is use the motor force from the one coil against the motor force of the other coil. We are just doing this to dial in the gains ro match them.
Once you correctly adjust it, the sub will stop moving. Then hook the wiring up correctly and enjoy.
Sir can I use single two voice coil woofer for left channel and right channel respectively?
My friends DD 612 was connected only on one voice coil by mistake. When I opened box after few months I realised that mistake. Will there be any permanent damage on this sub?
It's possible, look at the coil and see.
@@EMFAudio coil is not visible but I checked impedance shown same for both coils. So should I consider sub is OK?
@@Live_Loud If both read correct impedance I'd say it's probably fine.
@@EMFAudio may I know why you suggested to see the coil? Coil burns if we use single voice coil from dvc sub? I would like to explore other ways.
@@Live_Loud It can show heat damage, not necessarily complete burns but discoloration or if it is beginning to unwind.
So my question is does it hurt the speaker. That's my worry will it damage it if I don't use both could?....and ty for this video
Thermal power handling is cut in half when you use 1 coil, so yes it can hurt the speaker.
@@EMFAudio ty for ur help.
@@EMFAudio here's a question. To get 14v at all times . What step must be taken. I have a sundown SFb 5k .It said it is a 14v amp not sure what that means. Plz send link to video if there is 1
Hey EMF Audio..can you guys do a video on motor force..let's say two subs with identical soft parts but have two different motors?. One let's say rated at 1000rms with a average motor and one with monster size motor? What will be the output difference or over all quality difference? Keep up the technical videos guys. I'm learning a lot.
@iInstallRVA
The motor isn't the only factor in power handling, and odds are if one was 1,000 watts and another one had a huge motor it wouldn't use the same coil so power ratings on the coil wouldn't be nearly the same either. Comparing everything the same but motors where that would work out, I could tell you what would happen but just saying it doesn't have the value as showing it. Showing it would require building 2 subs identical for no purpose other than the video.
so when only wiring 1 wouldnt the 1 coil get hotter alot faster on rated watts and cause a ton of wear on it or am i wrong i know heat transfers insanely well on copper. but i wanna know the logistics behind temperatures with only 1 coil wired because i got a dvc 1ohm and my amps only 1 ohm stable pends my taramps 12k ate shit on .5 ohms immediately
Awesome video! Love these demonstrations. I have a suggestion for another one. When wiring 2 dvc 4ohm subs together down to 1ohm a lot of wiring diagrams show 3 wires in 1 terminal. What's the best way you think this should be done.
Can i run each coil on separate channels on the amp for eg one coil on channle 1 and the second coil on channle 2
Great videos is always and thank you for pointing that website out to go ahead and get all the apps and xs power stuff question I want to put a XS power under my GM truck but my truck takes I post what adapters do I need for any work cuz I see y'all have two types maybe three 🤔👍🏽
What year truck do you have? That changes what is needed.
@@EMFAudio 2003 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 side Post
www.emfcaraudio.com/xs-power-551-side-post-adapter/ that would be the side post adapter you need, it works on the D and S series batteries. It will not work on the A or V series.
@@EMFAudio ok cool thanks I ordered the wrong one then I ordered the 555
@@FLYGUYFOX 555 still works, just don't need the top post adapters in most cases. That's what I had in my truck and left them capped. They were out of 551's when I needed one so I got the 555. Did you order it from EMF?
Did you ever do a series vs parallel test? Great channel 👍🏻
I haven't, but I definitely could.
I would love to see that next
So what would be the difference be if I hook up one side of two dvc subs in parallel? Final load of all four coils in parallel would be 1 ohm, amp can handle 2. Any help would be great
How is that box made is there a port running threw it like a regular ported box or is it a box with a huge piece of pvc
Going in it
It's a regular ported box with a completely external port.
This is that I wanted to see! Thanks for the video!
could you do a test comparing the difference in spl if there is one between series and parallel wiring at the same wattage.
If there was a difference, it would be case specific, and within a tenth or two.
cool thanks for the reply ,just wondering
What will happen with two amplifiers that's the same two one speaker two of each voice coil
aside from the power handling dropping to half. is there any damage to the sub if you're not using full power or even close to full power?
cause I have two DVC 4 ohm subs. BUT my amp gets hot running it at 2 ohms. the heat on amp dropped when using one coil
If you only use half power with 1 coil, damage, no. Performance won't be as good though.
Since you tested the woofer parameters with the coils in series but did the spl test with them in parallel, would there be any difference in SPL if both configurations were tested? Assuming you achieved the same wattage in both tests.. My guess is the difference would be negligible, since the amp is large enough to achieve 750 into both configurations.
I've tested that in the past and found no difference in score, some people have claimed a difference but I think that is more the effect on the amp and how it's working because they were doing things like wiring at 0.25 ohm and 1 ohm with 1 ohm being louder, while clamping the same power.
@@EMFAudio Yeah I would agree. I believe an amp's damping factor can take a real dump at that low of impedance. Among other possible factors.
I have a dual 2 ohm that can handle 500rms each coil, I only have a 400watt rms amp currently on 1 ohm bridged but have to be cautious, I will definitely disconnect one coil now
Hi, great video again. But if the sub was rated 750, would you want to power the 1 coil with 750?(at least not for SPL) also, how does this apply to someone who wants to power their dvc sub with an amp on each coil? I don’t know what the original question was, but it makes me wonder if the original question was about only having limited power and trying to find a stable impedance for the amp, so you might run 1 coil. Thanks again man, great videos
I mentioned in the video that you wouldn't want to do that for more than a burp because power handling is cut in half. For using 1 coil per channel, you can absolutely do that but with one caveat. The signal going into each channel must be the same. Left and right channels in tracks can be different sometimes, so best practice is to make sure it's a mono signal being split to each channel.
@@EMFAudio Thx for that reply i was reading along to find an answer to my own issue. I have (2) DVC subs with 4ohm coils coming in the mail but i have only a 800watt output 4 channel AB amp i dont think the amp will go below the 4ohm so i needed to know if i could home run single channels to each voice coil. I have already ordered the rca splitter so channel 1-2 get same signal and 3-4get the same and will be left and right respective to the head unit and box. Wish i could afford a set of mono amps but it just isnt in the budget so i will harvest the AB 2/3/4 channel i have been lugging around for 2 decades and put it back to work. I'm sure it puts out its rated per channel as it has blown a few subs, woofers, and 6x9's in its life time. Maybe time is running out for the old amp. I got some AudioPipe TXX-BD2-10 i snagged for 200 a pair on the way and a Qbomb10tb dual 10" box with the quad triangle ports to put them into. The web says the subs are 600watt rms so i am shooting for 150watts per channel from the old tired amp and see what gives up first. Pretty sure the amp will start identifying as a space heater...
Interesting fact I really enjoy your videos!
How can I run 2 2 ohm kickers in a down firing box that Separates the two subs by the divider at 2 ohms ?
You can't, unless they're dual 2 ohm.
EMF Audio they are dual 2 ohm
If the speakers rated power handling is 750w with both coils combined doesn't that mean one coil can only handle 375w?
Sort of. There are some cooling changes with only 1 connected so it's possible it could be even less than half.
@@EMFAudio So why was 750w safe to put to one coil? That's what's confusing to me.
@@jamesg8246 RMS ratings are a power over time. A brief amount of power won't generate enough heat to kill it. From that aspect given no mechanical limitations, you can play 5,000 watts on them fine, briefly.
Hey man I have a question. So I have two skar sdr 15s on a Orion xtr 2500. I’ve noticed recently that when I have my subs playing full tilt they almost shut off. I know I have sufficient power. I have a extra battery and a 250 amp alt on but it’s almost like the subs go into protect and stop working until I turn it back down. I started the big three yesterday but this has been going on for a little while. I’ve only ran a positive from the battery to the alt and I’ve not run a ground from the motor or battery just yet. Do you have any ideas as to what’s happening I know my amp is capable of stupid amounts of power. I appreciate it 💪🏻
Do you have a volt meter reading at the amp? That could give you a baseline for what's happening, then look at solutions. FYI, subs don't go into protect, amps do. It's possible you're making the subs reach a point in excursion which trigger the amp shutting off though, because they're jumping the gap or going sideways.
I meant amp but no I don’t have a meter I only have the regular meter in my dash
@@sethredding1233 Put one on the amp, that may tell you where to start.
My vuess would be u may still have a large voltage drop at max volume beed to throw in a meeter
What if you ran 2 channels. 1 to each voice coil
You should have identical signal into both coils, but it's been done quite a bit.
@@EMFAudio yeah it doesn’t seem desireable haha
ok ok this makes sense, so for example if my sub claims 800rms 1600max thats using both VCs. if i end up using just one VC that means its 400rms 800max?
In it's most crude form, yes. There are other factors too which are in the video. It's possible to take even less power because of insulation from the coil not being used, depending how the coil is wound.
Bro... my amplifier produces 4 ohm in bridged mode and the subwoofer is dual voice coil 4 ohm each, so it is okey to connect only one voice coil... right ? Kindly pay attention to my problem...
It will play, but your power handling is cut in half and performance will suffer.
@@EMFAudio so what do you recommend for this situation?
@@anutom007 Ideally change the sub or change the amp.
Does the first coil induce a voltage on the second coil causing heat?
what voice coil would be best for a community mvp18s
how did you wire it too the sub to the amp on single coil I need to know
The same as you would any other speaker, positive to positive, negative to negative.
Will you be making more merica amps and will they be the same?
No.
And is it safe to run just one coil?
Did you watch the video?
I got a 12" type r for free from a coworker.. One coil reads 2ohm, the other 0. What are the chances that only 1 coil is blown vs just disconnected internally? Can a sub with 1 blown coil still sound "ok"
It's extremely possible. If it's ready 0 it's open.
@@EMFAudio guess I have nothing to lose taking apart the proprietary terminal to check tinsel leads
what software you used to get the parameters?
I was looking for this 🔥🔥🔥🔥
I saw a video years ago on RUclips about a guy bashing Orion hcca subs cuz one blew the dust cap off and he only had one coil per sub hooked up . Had no idea what he was doing probably clipped them to death on one coil per sub lol.
Great job on the content. I was hoping you would throw in the coils wired in series as well to see if there was a continued decline in spl as the impedance rised on the same clamped power. Overall great stuff though.
Yes, between parallel and series the impedance rise would be different, but with the same clamped power you won't see any difference, unless the amplifier itself does something different as a result of the impedance. That's as much as I can say without letting the cat out of the bag.
EMF Audio thanks for the reply. I’m just getting into spl in the stock 1000 class dbdrag, I appreciate the content you put up. On my off time when I’m not testing , I’m trying to be a sponge and take in as much as I can from people I think have experience and actual knowledge on the subject. Keep up the great content!
Is it possible to hook up a 2 channel amp to dual voice coil sub with one channel to each coil?
YES! You can do that, however, it is very critical that the input signal be exactly the same. Even if the sub output is summed mono from the HU I have seen different voltages from each output before. If it's not summed, you'd want to use a splitter from 1 to 2 going into the amp.
Nice video Sean
Love this video , thanks dude
Now see what happens when you run different signals to each one of the coils.
Bad things happen.
That's exactly what a dual voice coil speaker was made to do! They were invented as a way to flatten the unruly old subs response. Before EQs were invented they used notch filters to isolate the frequency with the peak running in reverse polarity. Once EQs came out Dual voice coils were were no longer needed. Then someone sees that old patent and makes a similar sub but uses both in same polarity, once again proving very few new things are ever really new. Things haven't changed much since 1930. Most new patents are bought up by big companies like GE who sits on it just to make sure that idea is never made, allowing them to continue making the same thing they already makibg with huge profits, only changing over to the hiding patent items when they see other companies developing a similar idea. Then we think it's brand new but in reality they're slowing advancement for their own profit. Look into old patents snd you'll see all kinds of new tech that is actually old news to those in the know.
Can we see the max rms on subs like the x z and ns speakers
A video I would like to see is tips for the competing bass boxing and anything that would help in competitions
Make a box like we did when this all started. It's called a death box, it's made in a way that you can mount a sub then slide one chamber into another chamber so you can change the volume of the box. You slide it till you get best output. Then you mark it and do the math or copy the dimensions and then you know exactly in the real world using real dimensions immediately. One box can be used to find the perfect size for any driver as long as you make the ends of the box big enough to mount the dtiver. Adaptors are used or multiple end caps with different sizes holes, using a different end cap makes it easier to figure the total internal volume since your keeping all demensions constant. Changing shape of boxes affects the output. Making boxes without any parallel sides defeats any standing waves. I'll stop here so you can do the research yourself
@@robertzinda9818 this is a very good piece of information, but I really want tips on competing in competitions, since this comment I have built a wind monster 6-18's on like 40k watts, I really want to win some competitions but idk what I could or could not compete in
Do you know how much the magnet weighs on the sundown sa-15 ?
No idea, I know the whole sub weighs about 32-34 lbs. Have you ever noticed that the best subs don't list a magnet weight as a spec? There is a reason for that.
EMF Audio
oke, i saw a video from sundown of the sa-15 and looked pritty big so i was just curious how much iT would weigh
Looks can be deceiving, some put large plastic boots on them or extend the basket around the motor to make them look bigger than they are. The SA-15 is genuine in it's size though, the rubber boot just goes over the magnet.
EMF Audio
yeah that i know, Some companies do everything for a profit. was thinking of buying a digital designs redline 615, but this sundown sa-15 looks also a great sub
@@promo130 You might want to look at our Lowballer 15 www.emfcaraudio.com/emf-audio-lowballer-15-subwoofer/
Now ... What about 1 channel or 1 amp by coil ? Dual amp on 1 sub not strapped together or a stereo amp having a channel on each coil of the sub ... Any comments ? A video maybe ? ... Thank you ...
That's as simple as gain matching, but I could do something with that when I find the application available for it.
U should do a video how to design a 2 15" sub c pillar wall for a 02 jeep cherokee
dustin a little to specific don’t ya think
@@ryanmalin Sounds like a person request LOL
Lol
What equipment do you use to measure the T/S parameters?
WT2
Have any videos on subsonic filters? What they do and how they work? I’ve never really messed with them too much other than if I move it a certain way I get less bass🤷🏽♂️ also slope on head-units? Thanks!
I've been asked about amp specific settings, I haven't done one, I could, I should.
Why the bass port on the outside of the box?🤔
It's supposed to be on the inside
They have outside ones also. Then you can change the length for different tuning
@@mikecheeze4312 It's just normal ports but on the outside.
Can also change the length if they are on the inside and the result is a bit better in my experience.
You can't fit that port length in that box, for starters.
@@EMFAudio so really it's because it won't fit vs being more easily interchangeable? Is it common to build a ported box that the port doesn't fit in? Forgive my ignorance but I've haven't seen but a couple boxes with "out reaching ports" or whatever they're called
@@EMFAudio Then it would in general be better to use a single slightliy wider but shorter port. I have tuned some enclosures to go very deep and very loud without having this long ports.
So Wait You Put 750 To One Coil. Doesn't That Mean You Over Powered That Coil? That's Means You Can't Play as Long At 750Watts One One Coil Than 750 On Two Coils Right?
Correct. Power ratings on a sub is using both coils, power handling is effectively cut in half using 1 coil.
When they say dual voice coil does it mean there is two separate coils r that there r two different leads that lean into the same coil?
It is 2 separate coils wound on the same former.
Is wiring a svc and a dvc sub with same rms. And size say 12''okay pple say '' its okay its the final ohmrage that matters but i think that x_max matters i read that dvc have lower x max than svc and air moved by cone=bass=(x_max*cone area) ellaborate this please
Xmax has nothing to do with the coil impedance unless it's a totally different sub. I'm not sure I understand what you're asking.
Is your box separated do each speaker have its own space if it does it should be fine
@@EMFAudio he is asking if he can wire two subwoofers one svc and one dvc that have the same Rms and same ohms in the same box together
@@danielmcbride2383 If it's a different sub, the answer is no, not for ideal results.
@@EMFAudio I got two subs like that and I can't tell the difference when I replace them with two that match both sound good and both still hit 147db and there junk kicker comp
Aww would like to have seen measurements in parallel vs series as well!
Wish I understood what "Dl" and all of that other stuff means.
ruclips.net/video/HRx8AeVP18M/видео.html
Keep making good content about SPL and Aero Ports
Here's an idea for a Tech Tuesday video. How to make a musical single 18" setup without breaking the bank.
Everybodies bank is a little different.
Would someone please explain to me why anyone would want a transducer with such horrible efficiency! I've tried to get on board with the ideas behind these kinds of drivers and they just don't cut it so please tell me why I would use a driver like that!
Well, if you know what you're doing, and what actually is needed to create good sound, you don't want a driver like this. I can't remember ever seeing a driver with such a low sensitivity. I don't think most people realize that the low sensitivity equates to a driver that has very poor resolution and definition. When listening to music, the excitement is in the definition.
This is what's wrong with the car audio world today. Companies that produce drivers that are not very good, that cost too much, and need a lot of power just to "burp". Hell, if you ask a company like Sundown or B2 Audio how they test their drivers when they make their claims of power handling, they can't give you a straight answer. They don't go by any standards. While you have companies like Scanspeak, Dynaudio, Focal, Morel, Gladen and Stereo Integrity who are actually doing it right, you have a ton of companies selling snake oil - especially in the SPL world.
@@AB-80X Yup I totally agree and yet we still have this type of driver being what people ask for and if you explain to them why it's not a good thing they automatically dismiss you with their confirmation biased because it's what all the competitors are doing 🤔
@@jedpetersen3806 If you want to play lows well, you're going to have that type of sensitivity. Additionally, that spec means less than you're making it out to bed. Example, in this very video a 4 dB difference in sensitivity and a 1 dB difference in testing. It isn't an indicator of how loud it will be. Competitors aren't playing lows, and don't use this type of driver.
@@AB-80X A low sensitivity has nothing to do with accuracy, or resolution, or definition. I'd be interested to know what you think is a "good" driver, so I can tell you why it's not for every purpose the subs you say aren't good. I don't know about B2, but Sundown can tell you how they get a power handling number. I can tell you how EMF does it too. FYI, Stereo Integrity is located INSIDE Sundown Audio, literally, inside, in the middle of their building. You are somewhat right in that Sundown doesn't go by the "standards" you speak of, because if they did, car audio people would blow everything up. They use much more conservative ratings, as do we.
@@EMFAudio Yeah I know one needs excursion for low frequency reproduction but the idea of quality audio is to achieve a linear reproduction of frequencies which means those inefficient low-frequency drivers must be implemented in multiple driver applications in order to achieve a high enough sensitivity to be equal to higher frequency drivers plus I realize that a driver's sensitivity is not an indicator of how loud it will be but it is an indicator of how inefficient it is and how much power it requires to get loud where an efficient driver will get much louder with less power so as I reiterate why would anyone want to have such a low efficiency driver 🤔
You stated that with only a single coil being used, the rated power would be half. Now you ran the single coil test using essentially double rated power? Wouldn't it behove you to also run the DVC test with double rated power or run the SVC with half rated power for the test to be anywhere near equal? Thought....
If I did double power on both coils that wouldn't show a valid comparison because more than 1 factor was changed. Power handling is a thermal limitation in this case. If I ran that same power over time it would eventually fail. For seconds at a time it will not be effected by the additional power.
@@EMFAudio Thanks for the follow-up. I understand now.
I only run one coil if I have a blown coil. I knew it was too good of a deal.
Thanks for the actual results in the car. Lol
Why aren't quad voice coil subs more common?
No point in it. They were used for about a year about 15 years ago, banned from competition, never saw them again.
146db??? Thats about what I guess my 2-15's do at around 2000 watts. Must be one heck of a 1 note wonder box for sure.
A lot of the higher end subwoofers in a good box will do those numbers
@@danielmcbride2383 i a one note wonder box on thousands of watts sure.
you will get higher spl numbers at higher frequencies. this sub peaks at 60Hz so he tested it at 60Hz. Most people don't tune boxes to 60Hz except for SPL competitions. Getting 140db at 30Hz is going to be a lot tougher than at 60Hz.
I got a video for ya. Explain why impedance rise is a good thing
I did do a few videos on impedance rise, and I did explain what it means, which is good. That subject alone would be a very short video.
EMF Audio I watched yours and the sundown vid and the barevids box rise and it made me want to run my e series 12 at 4 times rated power for competition and some serious daily bump however I do still turn it down a bit to ensure I never clip
@@FUCKDSS Remember that impedance rise is dynamic, not static.
I read some where you can put a resistor on one of the voice coils and power on the other and change some characteristic of the sub
You can, the same as dead shorting one of the coils, but in the grand scheme of things what's changed isn't of benefit to just using both coils.
@@EMFAudio no not dead shorting, you add a resistor changing the impedance of the second coil, and that adjusts something it's been along time. I'm not saying this is something you should do, I just remember reading about it and how you can vary some reading, or how the sub acts , the article talked about putting a potentiometer in between the terminals so you can dial it up or down to change it. I'm really gonna have to go find that article again.
Edit: also I'm not comparing it to your video, about leaving the coil unhooked. This video just brought it to mind and I remember thinking that was so neat when I was 14-15 years old
@@EMFAudio I found this online, it isn't the article but a post relating to it, basically it says using a resistor across the second coil you can adjust the Q to vary the sub for different boxes
This is the post I found that explains it. It was post on Nov 11th 2005 and the article I read was a good bit older than that.
By placing a resistor across the second coil will allow you to adjust the Q of the driver, so it can be optimised for different enclosure types. I own an Ascendant Audio Atlas subwoofer which is a DVC driver with the second coil designed for the sole purpose of adjustable Q. The coil that gets power from the amp is a 4ohm load, and the coil for adjusting the Q is a 2ohm laod. By shorting the 2ohm coil, a low Q is available which would be best for a sealed box. By leaving the 2ohm coil open, a high Q is available for infinite baffle designs. By placing a resistor of 1.5 ohm (equal to the DCR of the coil), a mid Q is available for ported designs.
Keep in mind that with only utilizing one coil, you decrease BL (motor strength), and decrease power handling. I had originally used my Atlas subwoofer in a mid Q design, but have found that wiring both coils in series for a 6ohm driver works quite a bit better.
@@Gcrilla I've never tried it but the Qts shouldn't change THAT drastically. There shouldn't be a shift from like 0.3 to 0.8
@@Gcrilla Shorting the coil is something you're doing when you put a resistor in there. I mean that as connecting POS and NEG together with no signal.
Mhm, so sensitivity is 83db.
Doing the tests with both coils, at exactly 7:35 when it's displaying 17watts and 117db. How is that possible ?
If we do the math 83 at 1 meter at 1w.
86 at 2w
89 at 4w
92 at 8w
96 at 16w.
How much gain at that particular frequency does the box give ? that's like 21db difference.
Yes i know it's in a car with a box tuned at the peak frequency but god damn 21db is a LOT.
Cabin gain can make huge effects I had a t line tuned to 29hz for home audio put it in a ford ranger and 31hz was insane put it in a blazer sounds dirty and muddy it's not always a drastic difference but there's more to play into it that I don't even fully understand myself lol
That box is setup for that car, with HUNDREDS of hours in testing time behind it. Using a sub built for that box yields and even bigger gain.
First off, have you tested any dual 2 ohm drivers against the same makers single 4 ohm version of the same driver, I think sn important aspect to test would be heat generated I the gap since that's what kills most speakers unless they have fused tinsel leads like CV HED subs. The other thing I need to ask is how many know when the dual voice coil was invented and why it was invented? Subs first appeared in movie theaters once sound was added to movies. The subs they had back in the 1930s were not well behaved and had huge peaks at certain levels that they (at that time) no way to flatten the response. There were no EQs, so they added the second coil to act as a way to correct the response by running a reverse polarity signal at those frequencies that had the big peaks. This was probably done by using complex passive notch crossovers and resistors to get the signal dialed in as close as possible. This is just one more example of how most things we deal with today are far from bring new ideas
I fried my shit once wiring to one voice coil and bridging the other vc pretty much i only powered 1 coil and over drew my amp 😂
I like this good info
I need your help if you can message me?
I bought 2 sa 10s duel 4 and he said they wher not hitting right took them out and grandmas old lamp cord was barely on one coil lol